A young Boston restaurateur who’s helping to change the game

On a recent weekday, head chef Irene Li glides around Mei Mei’s restaurant in Boston before it opens for lunch, pausing to fluff the curtains just inside the door with the care of an attentive mother. While the clatter of dishes in the kitchen signals the work of busy line cooks prepping that day’s menu, half of her staff is finishing up a finance class in the dining room.

A casual, hipster vibe permeates the small restaurant with its square wooden tables, exposed brick, and earnest messages stenciled in chalk on smooth black walls.

“We love food and spend a lot of time thinking about how we can use it to make the world a better place,” reads one. “We form reciprocal relationships with farmers we trust & work hard to make their products and wisdom shine!” reads another.

The scene at Mei Mei hints at how Ms. Li is constantly considering ways to improve an