When the country’s last ice sheet melted away more than 12,000 years ago, it left calling cards across the Midwest. Chief among them are the deep kettles and lofty hummocks I’m puffing up and

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18. Signs Of The Times
IT’S A REAL choose-your-own-adventure in this Colorado section of the Continental Divide Trail. Here, like much of the long trail, dozens of threaded footpaths snake through the tundra around 12,093-foot Independence Pass. But only one way is the way
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Paddle Like a Pro
Both bow and stern paddlers default to this stroke. Turn your torso slightly to reach over the gunwale. Dip the entire blade in the water and pull toward the stern, generating power from your torso and back. Lift the blade out of the water at your hi
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14. Life's a Beach
I DON’T HAVE TO go far to lose the tourists on Fire Island. That’s really saying something—it took me only a couple of hours to get here from New York City. Hoisting an overnight pack, I squeeze past the day trippers and storefront shoppers and journ