The Guardian

Porridge and boiled mutton? New York foodies still love trolling London | Mina Holland

Britain made its transition to globalised food a long time ago – yet outdated stereotyping is the fixed menu of some critics
Mark Lester in Oliver! (1968). ‘One Twitter user commented: “What is this WEIRD obsession Americans have with London having bad food? Was his last visit during the Victorian era?”’ Photograph: Allstar/Romulus

The New York Times recently published, “Beyond Porridge and Boiled Mutton: A Taste of London”, in praise of four London restaurants. Travel writer Robert Draper, who had rekindled a relationship with the city after a 10-year hiatus, was pleasantly surprised by the evaporation of a once “drab baseline” and “sallow and predictable dining experience”, and applauded our “recent flowering as a culinary destination”.

Let’s talk about this. London’s emergence as a restaurant destination is not especially recent (“flowering” suggests we are at training-bra stage), so why do many, often Americans, continue to peddle such a dim put it in , an essay in 1992’s Home Cooking, her compatriots are “apt to sneer and tell you that it is impossible to get a decent meal in the British Isles and that the English know nothing about cooking.”

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