Saveur

THE LAWS OF RETURN

In 1994, I spent my first year of college at a university in Israel, in Ramat Gan, near Tel Aviv. Each Thursday and Saturday night, all of us American students would take a bus or a cab down to Ben Yehuda Street, in Jerusalem, and find the place exploding with the other American students. We sat on the floor of a lounge and drank hot wine in sugar-rimmed glasses. We danced at a club to a playlist that began with Ace of Base and ended with “Hotel California” every single night. We ate pizza made by people who had never met an Italian off of cardboard squares instead of plates. The boys ate shawarma, which I objected to for feminist reasons (meat being showcased on a spit—I don’t know, I felt strongly about this at the time) and we ate our weight in hummus and falafel. A month in, as we wandered the cobblestone streets of Jerusalem, I found a small, cafeteria-style vegetarian café called the Village Green. I ordered the vegetable soup. There was a never-ending

You're reading a preview, sign up to read more.

More from Saveur

Saveur2 min readFood & Wine
Grilled Rack Of Lamb With Garlic And Herbs
SERVES 4 Active: 45 min. Total: 3 hr. 55 min. This easy but elegant recipe is adapted from the Presidents Pub in Washington, Pennsylvania, where the chefs oven-roast a whole local lamb rack to a tender mediumrare. On the grill, the meat picks up a sm
Saveur3 min readFood & Wine
Tending the Bines
IT CAN BE EASY TO GET LOST IN the labyrinthine trails of Nopalito Farm and Hopyard in northeast San Diego County. Hop farms are strangely evocative of oceanic kelp forests: fields filled with gently waving, upward-reaching verdant plants that can tow
Saveur6 min read
The Island Of Forgotten Orchards
IF YOU’RE DRIVING THE WINDING ROADS OF ORCAS ISLAND in late summer, you can smell the ripening fruit all around. On one such morning last year, I stopped the car at my destination and met Audra Lawlor, owner of Girl Meets Dirt, who was surveying one