DELTA SANCTUARY

Kenosi is our guide, quietly spoken, an ace driver and brilliant tracker. He’s on the lookout for rhino as we bounce across the Okavango Delta in an indestructible, safari-retrofitted 4WD, plunging into an elephant wallow with a thwack and then, feet on seats, crossing a croc-infested river, water rushing into the vehicle on both sides.

It’s an adventure writ large in a spectacular watery wilderness populated by the Big Five (elephant, rhino, buffalo, lion, leopard), not forgetting giraffes, hippos and wild