Two Halves Make One – the jumpsuit

The jumpsuit is generally completed with a single seam that runs horizontally around the figure. In some cases, the garment may not have a seam, but instead a strong designer detail midsec›on. Both of these details will influence the fit between the top and bo›om of the garment. The best way to assess what pa›ern altera›ons are required is to make a toile. For the most accurate results, use a fabric of similar type and weight to your fashion fabric.

Pattern alterations – bodice

Waist length

When a garment has a fi›ed waistline, you will need to check the back waist length and then alter the pa›ern accordingly. Make sure that you allocate ‘wearing ease’ for waist length. The amount of ease required can be calculated by checking the pa›ern book for back waist length measurement in your size and then checking this against the paper pa›ern. For example: if you are making up size 14 in Vogue, the standard back waist length is 42cm (16½in). If the pa›ern measures 43cm (16⅞in), you can assume that 1cm (⅜in) ease is required. You then alter your pa›ern accordingly, adding 1cm (⅜in) ease to your body measurement.

To alter the back waist length, find the pre-printed altering line in the upper torso area. It is important to alter where indicated so that the design details are not changed by your adjustment. Simply fold out or slash and add in the adjustment required. See diagram 1. If side seams or other lines are no longer straight, ‘true up’ by using two original