On New Orleans' Royal Street, the music is sweet, history is deep

A city full of music

When I set out last year to write about great American music venues, the idea was to pick buildings whose histories are steeped in music, including familiar names such as Carnegie Hall in New York and half-hidden treasures such as Cain's Ballroom in Tulsa, Okla. New Orleans reshaped my thinking.

This city's musical roots are found largely outdoors, including the slave gatherings that brought West African rhythms to Congo Square in the 18th century; the brass bands that have been marching since the 19th century; the jazz and heritage festival that has been filling the city fairgrounds every spring since 1969; and the street performers who depend on the French Quarter's foot traffic the way Spanish moss depends on the branches of Louisiana's stately oaks.

For four days in early March (including Mardi Gras), I haunted a mile of Royal Street. That included 13 blocks through the French Quarter and three blocks leading to Frenchmen Street, where about a dozen music clubs are concentrated.

Why Royal? It's one of the city's oldest streets, dating to the early 18th century. Several of its blocks