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Farm Fare

  18th-century Korean artist Kim Hongdo portrays shirtless men seated on the ground, sinking chopsticks into huge bowls of rice and tipping back cups of a fermented, lightly effervescent rice drink with the alcohol content of beer. Though modernization has made the practice scarcer today, brings farmers together for quick but hearty sustenance in the midmorning and late afternoon. Chef Michael Kim of Maum—a 16-seat tasting-menu restaurant in Palo Alto, California—wants to introduce this daily ritual to an American audience.

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