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    Apres Moi le Dessert: A French Eighteenth Century Model Meal
    Apres Moi le Dessert: A French Eighteenth Century Model Meal
    Apres Moi le Dessert: A French Eighteenth Century Model Meal
    Ebook77 pages40 minutes

    Apres Moi le Dessert: A French Eighteenth Century Model Meal

    By Jim Chevallier

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    About this ebook

    Original eighteenth century recipes - most newly translated from French - selected to match a "model meal" given in a classic period cookbook. Recipes appear for the three services:

    FIRST SERVICE (Soups and entrees)
    - CENTERPIECE: Oille
    - SIX ENTREES:Terrine of partridge with cabbage~Terrine of filet of duck with green sauce~Pigeon tart~Chickens in galantine~Filet of beef with cucumbers~A grenade with blood
    - TWO HORS-D'OEUVRES: Quail in the frying pan~Chicken in cinders

    SECOND SERVICE (roasts)
    - CENTERPIECE: A small quarter of veal, larded and served in its juice
    - FOUR ROASTS:1 hen garnished with chickens with eggs~One hen~Four young rabbits~A plate of young pheasants garnished with young quail
    - FOUR HORS-D'OEUVRES: Two salads~Two sauces

    THIRD SERVICE (Entremets)
    - CENTERPIECE: Partridge pate or boar's head
    - SIX MEDIUM DISHES: Omelet a la Noailles~Fried cream, garnished with peach beignets~A stew of green truffles~A dish of artichokes~A dish of peas~A dish of crayfish
    - TWO HORS D'OEUVRES: Fried animelles~A dish of ramekins

    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherJim Chevallier
    Release dateJul 17, 2012
    ISBN9781476415567
    Apres Moi le Dessert: A French Eighteenth Century Model Meal
    Author

    Jim Chevallier

    Jim Chevallier is a food historian who has been cited in "The New Yorker", "The Smithsonian" and the French newspapers "Liberation" and "Le Figaro", among other publications. CHOICE has named his "A History of the Food of Paris: From Roast Mammoth to Steak Frites" an Outstanding Academic Title for 2019. His most recent work is "Before the Baguette: The History of French Bread". He began food history with an essay on breakfast in 18th century France (in Wagner and Hassan's "Consuming Culture in the Long Nineteenth Century") in addition to researching and translating several historical works of his own. He has been both a performer and a researcher, having worked as a radio announcer (WCAS, WBUR and WBZ-FM), acted (on NBC's "Passions", and numerous smaller projects). It was as an actor that he began to write monologues for use by others, resulting in his first collection, "The Monologue Bin". This has been followed by several others over the years.

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      Book preview

      Apres Moi le Dessert - Jim Chevallier

      The Meal

      The following, somewhat theoretical, menu is for a meal to be served to 10-12 guests. It appears, in slightly different forms, in the 1705, 1714 and 1717 editions of the Nouveau Cuisinier Royal et Bourgeois, one of the most popular cookbooks of the eighteenth century (both in French and in various, not always credited, English translations). It is a relatively modest meal – relative, that is to most period menus which have survived and which tend to be for special meals served to royalty. This is meant, certainly, for a household of some means – enough to have a significant kitchen staff – but not necessarily one at the highest reaches of pre-Revolutionary French society.

      To start with, it only consists of three services. One held for Marie-Antoinette included six, including sixteen entrées; Bonnefons lists eight in Les Délices de la Campagne (Amsteldam [sic], 1655). The three here are:

      FIRSTSERVICE

      Centerpiece:1oille

      6entrées:

      1terrineofpartridgewithcabbage

      1 terrine of duck filets with green purée

      1 pigeon tart

      2 chickens in galantine

      1 larded filet of beef with cucumbers

      1 grenade with blood

      2hors-d'oeuvres:Quailinthefryingpan

      Small chickens in cinders, with ham essence on it

      SECONDSERVICE

      Centerpiece:1smallquarterofveal,lardedandservedinitsjuice

      4roasts:

      1hengarnishedwithchickenswitheggs

      1 hen

      4 young rabbits

      1 plate of young pheasants garnished with young quail

      4hors-d'oeuvres:

      2salads

      2 sauces

      THIRDSERVIC

      Centerpiece:1partridgepatéor1wildboarhead

      6mediumdishes:

      1Noaillesomelet

      1 dish of fried cream, garnished with peach beignets

      1 stew of green truffles

      1 dish of artichokes

      1 dish of peas

      1 stew of crayfish tails

      2hors-d'oeuvres:

      1dishoffriedanimelles

      1 dish of ramekins

      LeNouveauCuisinierRoyaletBourgeoisLaViePrivéed'Autrefois

      A fourth service is assumed here: the dessert (often composed of fruit, fresh or in jellies or compotes).

      One speaks of a table served in four services. The first are the Entrées, the second the roast, the third the Entremets, & the fourth, the Fruit, also called the Dessert.

      Dictionnairedesalimens,vinsetliqueurs

      For an earlier menu (or, as the English said then, Bill of Fare), the author of the Cuisinier Royal says of the dessert service: It is the Fruits & Jellies, which we will excuse ourselves from discussing, since it is a matter for a Confectioner, rather than a Cook. (5, 1705 ed.)

      For each service all the dishes were put on the table together, sometimes being removed long enough to be carved and served. Though service is sometimes translated as course, it was somewhat different, part of an overall approach referred to as "Service à la Française". While elegant in appearance, this had its disadvantages, as explained in the Larousse Gastronomique (1961; 874)

      It is easy to understand how overloaded were the tables if to these covered dishes are added the great tables centres, baskets of flowers, candelabras full of candles, set places, glass, etc. But the greatest inconvenience of this service, almost inevitably, was that in spite of the réchauds,

      Only some of the dishes listed for this model meal are described in the cookbook itself, and so most of the recipes provided here come from other cookbooks of the time. Some correspond to the exact item listed in the model menu, others are for similar dishes. The degree of detail provided for each item varies widely, depending on the recipes available, the familiarity of the item to modern readers, etc.

      Ingredients

      For urban cooks, the biggest obstacle here will be the use of game birds for a number of these recipes. These can certainly be obtained, but supermarket

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