WhereSheGoes: Chronicles of a Modern World Nomadess

WhereSheGoes

Chronicles of a Modern World Nomadess

WhereSheGoes

Carmella Lesiuk

Copyright © 2012 by Carmella Lesiuk

Smashwords Edition

Published by

WhereSheGoes

Edmonton, Alberta, Canada

Cover design by Tim Breuer

All rights reserved.

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Paperback ISBN 978-0-9879046-0-7

Ebook ISBN 978-0-9879046-1-4

Dedication

This is for those who dare.

Table of Contents

Preface

Switzerland

Greece

Austria

Czech Republic & Germany

Netherlands

United Kingdom

Ireland

Back to the Big Island

France

Spain

Back to France & Monaco

Italy

Malaysia

Northern Australia

Southern Australia

North Island of New Zealand

South Island of New Zealand

Chance of a Lifetime

Acknowledgments

About the Author

Preface

Everything happens for a reason. The gift of hindsight reinforces that belief within me.

The opportunity to travel first presented itself to me early in life. At the age of twelve, I was already a fearless explorer living in Edmonton, Alberta. A generous stranger gave my mom a free airline ticket across the country but neither she nor my sister could go. When my mom asked me if I wanted to take the opportunity to travel, I didn’t hesitate. I bravely agreed to the trip and to a myriad of new experiences: my first plane trip, traveling alone, and staying with an aunt I barely knew. I could smell adventure and knew this was a chance of a lifetime. There was no time to get scared or have second thoughts since I would be leaving in less than four hours. The combination of spontaneity and the unknown created the ultimate adrenaline rush. I was hooked.

I quickly packed a bag while my mom described my mystery aunt so I could recognize her when I got off the plane. Traveling by myself was exhilarating and came natural to me, even as a child. Now I realize that moment had imbued me with an incurable wanderlust that would remain dormant until I was ready. This early expedition set the stage for what was to come fifteen years later, when I quit the rat race to become a full-time nomadess.

Throughout my life people have described me as lucky. Perhaps they are right. However, I have chosen to live outside of the comfort zone in which most people exist. In doing this, I learnt that real luck is earned. It is created from the risks we take. Luck is the magical result of opportunity meeting preparation. While it may be scary, if you are prepared to take risks, your odds of winning improve. And even if the outcome doesn’t fit your expectations, you still have not lost. Some of the most substantial growth stems from adversity. It is during these growing pains that our soul and character evolves. The happy by-product is that you seize control of your life rather than having it dictated to you. Actively creating your own reality is the ultimate empowerment tool.

There are many misconceptions that traveling solo is lonely, pointless, and dangerous – especially if you happen to be a woman. While I did experience loneliness, it never lasted long. This world is overflowing with kindred spirits eager to help me on my way. Additionally, I felt more lonesome living the default life at home surrounded by friends and family than when on the road, following my heart. There were times I encountered danger, but I did not indulge in the energy of fear. I used my head and seemed to pass as if protected. Some think unique personal experiences merit less than those that are shared. I may have been more secure if I had travelled with a companion but my freedom would have been compromised.

I believe traveling is one of the most efficient, effective, and enjoyable ways to evoke profound personal growth. If there is one point to all the soul searching that goes on while on the road, it is the attainment of freedom. Freedom to be here and now, present without the chain of the past or the unkempt promise of the future. Freedom from expectation welcomes challenge and adversity; it thrives on the unplanned. The meaning of life is to experience. It is our experiences that give our lives meaning. And they are greatly enhanced when you take to the road – giving yourself the freedom to self-actualize…in other words, to become who you really are.

Switzerland

July 7: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada

I am finally ready to go. I quit the job, sold the stuff and said the goodbyes. I leave in less than a week. My sister, Trina, will drive me down to Calgary to catch my flight. I am not really nervous but I get emotional some days thinking about what will come of all this.

While planning this trip, everything has come so easily. This just confirms I am on the right path. Once I started selling or giving away all of my belongings, I was stuffless after one weekend. I will never forget the looks on my neighbors’ faces as a line of eager takers marched out of my house with everything, from tables to clothes to pictures to my dirty dishes. That’s okay, the man said as he removed them from the dishwasher cheerfully, I will wash them when I get home. Even I was astonished at how quickly the liquidation process went. I hope to finish any last minute errands this week. I am still in search of the perfect shoe.

The universal response when I talk to people about what I am doing is how brave I am. I don’t feel particularly brave. In fact, I think it would take more audacity to stay here and try to survive in this rat race when it is so obvious that I am meant to be somewhere else.

July 13: Zurich, Switzerland

I am finally here and am totally exhausted. The jet lag may take a few days to wear off. This keyboard is wacky... the ‘y’ is not in the right place and there are dots on top of the letters ö, ä and ü. And what is the ‘z’ doing there? It is definitely a different world here. Note to self: buy compass. I got lost four times today. But that’s okay because I got to see places I prolly wouldn’t have gone to by plan.

The flights were so fun I barely noticed I was on a plane all day. I even got to see my long lost cousin, Danielle, on my layover in Toronto. After such a concentrated catch up session, I slept the entire way to Zurich. When I arrived at the airport, I had to figure out how to take the train into the city center. I felt overwhelmed when I looked around the station for someone who looked like they spoke English. That’s when I realized it wasn’t just one language everyone was speaking. It was more like a jumble of four or five and I couldn’t understand any of them.

I made my way up to the ticket window and the man seemed frustrated when I wasn’t able to get the money to him. There wasn’t any slot or opening in the window to slide my credit card through and he kept banging the palm of his hand on the table, harder and harder each time. I was confused, but that dissolved quickly into embarrassment as he demonstrated what to do: A genius revolving tray safely passed my money to him and with another half turn, my train ticket to me. My face was beet red as I skittered away toward the trains. I didn’t get but fifty feet before I stopped short— I had to go back to the ticket window because I forgot to ask at which platform I should wait. Ugh! How humiliating.

Travel Lesson: Leave your ego at home.

The train was a bit scary because I had no idea where to get off. I would have asked someone but the only people on board with me were two drunks who did not seem to know left from right. It all worked out though as I made it safely from the city to the airport.

It’s rainy here... but not too cold. There is a beautiful river that runs through Zurich and the cobblestone streets are very steep. My hostel has a shared kitchen where you are instructed to label your food, so I went shopping for supper supplies. At the grocery store nothing was in English, which meant I had to rely on the pictures on the packaging to know what I was buying. False advertising at this point could be brutal. There was a cartoon cow but does that mean it is milk, cheese, yogurt or beef pâté? I can only imagine how odd I looked when I was inspecting a bottle of tomato sauce so thoroughly.

It’s pretty busy here but lucky me, I got the last bed in the hostel. For lunch, I had a salad and chocolate. Mmmm… the chocolate is so rich and delicious here. I am not worried about the poundage because of all the walking I did today. Plus, my room is 500 stairs up... okay, not that many, but it sure feels like it.

Tomorrow I am going to Interlaken. Unless something more exciting comes up, I think I have seen as much of Zurich as I would like. There are lots of watches and chocolate: cliché and sweet at the same time.

I don’t know why I expected more people to speak English. It turns out not many do. It’s kind of foreign and somewhat daunting asking for directions. I can’t believe I was trying to figure out who was most likely to speak English by how they looked. I wonder how English-speaking I look.

I am making a simple spatzel with sauce for dinner. Everyone else in the hostel made pasta too, so I think it must be a backpacker staple. Tonight I will try to get to sleep early. My body clock says it’s 7:00 a.m. but it’s actually 4:00 p.m. Zurich time. I am so sore. My feet, my back and other various body parts are throbbing with exhaustion.

I am happy to be here and so far it is quite exciting. The best thing was the feeling right before I got off the plane. We had landed in Zurich and I thought to myself Hum. What should I do today? And the answer came to me: Anything I want. Including getting lost with my cereal-box-sized Lindt chocolate bar and Evian.

July 15: Interlaken, Switzerland

I met some ladies from Hong Kong on the train to Interlaken. We couldn’t communicate very well, but we tried. I gave them some tiny Canadian flag stickers to show them where I was from. In return they gifted me an intricate hand-crafted paper angel fish. It’s more delicate than butterfly wings and certainly more elegant that some silly stickers. I felt somewhat self-conscious because it didn’t seem like a fair trade but they seemed delighted.

I’ve discovered one of the best places in the world. I know this because I have met people here from almost every continent here and we all feel the same way. Interlaken is amazing. There are beautiful mountains all around and it is sandwiched between two pristine lakes, hence the name.

I am staying at the Funny Farm Backpacker Hostel. Zou can play Monopoly, plan zour next adrenaline excursion, or chat with one of zour newfound friends. Because here, everyone is zour friend. I have alreadz gotten pages upon pages of travel advice. It’s hard to get bored. Zou can play tennis, foosball, pool or ping pong in the gardens. Or zou can jump out of a plane if that floats zour boat. I mean, zou have to sleep in an old converted barn but who wouldn’t want to sleep next to Mr. Ed or Babe? I have made about thirty new friends here and each one is such a character. I love it.

I admit I was taken aback the first night when I crawled into my bottom bunk in the twenty-person dorm. As soon as the lights went out, I heard a loud, ominous, So Canada…Where is your ‘I’m not American’ flag? I know they were just teasing me but I felt intimidated. I hadn’t really thought about flags that way. I guess I believed that as an international traveler, we are all ambassadors for our homeland and should be proud of that. But clearly there is some tension around this idea.

I met some guys here who had Canadian flags sewn on their backpacks and was chuffed to meet some brothers from my homeland. But it turned out they were actually from the United States. I asked them where they were from and they said Toronto. I have lots of friends and family in that area so I eagerly probed deeper.

But where in Toronto? I implored excitedly. They both hesitated. Um…downtown? they choked out after a long pause.

Come on guys, get real! No one lives in the business center of Canada’s major city. You may work in downtown Toronto but if you live there, you sure as heck are not a twenty-something international backpacker begging money for a beer. Busted! They acted a bit sheepish when I discovered their true origin and were somewhat apologetic. They explained it made travel easier for them and people treated them better as a Canuck. I told them they had better bone up on their Canadian geography if they want to pass themselves off as such.

Travel Lesson: Be yourself.

The diversity of the things you can do here is astounding. You can go paragliding, skydiving, ice climbing, bungee jumping, canyoning, rafting or hike to the waterfalls. Those are just a few of the options. Extreme sports are rampant here. And think of the view zou get when way up high. If zou feel like relaxing, zou can laze in the poolside loungers watching belly flop contests from the moving rock climbing wall into the water.

At night, there is the Guinness tent, a bonfire and a nightclub in the basement. But more than anything, I love the playful atmosphere. Travelers are so friendly! If zou want solitude, zou can have it by wandering off on a nature walk. But if zou want company, there is always someone about to go do exactly that thing zou wanted to do. Most of my new pals have been here before and plenty have adjusted their trip to stay longer. I am starting to think of this place as a vortex.

July 16: Interlaken, Switzerland

I went canyoning today and it was nothing short of spectacular. First, I rappelled down a 150 meter canyon and then jumped, slid and climbed through more than a mile of picturesque Swiss valley. It was a little nippy but we had thick wet suits on (as well as the safety garb, Mom). My favorite part was when I zip-lined down and right in the middle let go, dropping five meters into a pool of fresh glacier water. Exhilarating!

It’s rainy out so I get to utilize my cute black rain suit. Actually, the showers started just as we finished our canyoning trip. After drinking our beer and eating bread, cheese (made at a farm only miles away from where we were sitting) and scrumptious pie, we felt the first drops. Good timing! Today was a good day.

This place is highly addictive. I’m having a fantastic time and meeting the coolest people. Amy and Maca from Oz left today and I was sad to see them leave. They made me smile and were really easy to be around. Maca’s tequila-winning tactics and Amy’s soothing disposition won me over.

I am beginning to appreciate that there will be lots of days like this. I am so glad to be alive right now. I feel grateful that I have this opportunity. Interlaken is like Banff but the buildings are super old, proud with history. I spent an hour watching all the cuckoo clocks in one of the countless timepiece stores. Then, I opened up all these opulent wooden music boxes and they played Edelweiss simultaneously. Since they confiscated my pocket knife at the Calgary airport, I thought I should get a new one where they were invented. I bought a smart red Swiss army knife and they engraved my name on it for free!

Yesterday, I went on a motorcycle ride all through the scenic windy mountain roads. I saw fuzzy sheep, rolling green hills and snow capped peaks. It was exactly like a postcard! I go to bed each night feeling so fortunate. It is starting to hit me that this whole trip is pretty unique. I know it’s only the third day but I have to wonder when the dreamlike feeling will wear off. I have to stop questioning this present, because I realize that it will only dissolve if I let it.

July 17: Interlaken, Switzerland

Could it get any better than this? I am so happy sometimes it’s hard. I am experiencing such unfettered emotions that it’s a bit overwhelming. I guess I am used to being numb but all this sparkly newness is invigorating. I had to say my first goodbye yesterday and I almost cried. How is it that you can know someone for just three days and get so attached? I think I am lucky to be matched with such compatible people.

Last night I went to an awesome reggae band right near where I am staying. I sat there with this huge perma-grin. As much as I tried, I could not stop smiling. Today I have spent the day chilling and getting ready to move on. I am a bit nervous, but more excited. It’s my first night train ever... woohoo! I love trains and I love sleep so I am thrilled. The next few weeks will be hectic, but Greek food is one of my faves, so I will have good fuel.

Many fellow travelers have written in my travel journal, making it one of my best souvenirs. People from around the world share with me their favorite places and experiences. It’s fascinating to get all this secret information that is floating around the backpacker community. They give me tons of recommendations on hidden gems to visit, either because they have been there or are locals. I have so many places to discover!

I am learning a lot about trust and sharing. It is reassuring to feel that we are all one big family. Humans are not that different no matter where they are from. The more people I meet the more I realize what a small world this is. Sometimes I miss home. But if I close my eyes, I am there... then I open them and I am here. It’s like two for the price of one!

I love the reaction I get from people when I tell them I am going around the world. Their faces totally light up and they have so many questions. I am glad to be able to make so many people smile. I mean, that is what it’s all about, right? The unequivocal smile.

It’s raining so hard today that I had to borrow an umbrella. In four hours I have to catch the train. Then I’m on to a whole new place - maybe with sun, not rain. But truth be told, even the rain is special in Switzerland. I don’t seem to mind it as much as rainy days back home. I guess it’s all about perspective. I was speaking to some travelers yesterday about optimism. One professed proudly that he was a true pessimist. I argued that really, how bad could it be? No matter what happens, it’s like: Hey, I am in ________ (fill in the blank with your current location)! It can never get THAT bad when you are free to travel the world.

My email address has turned out to be a pretty catchy name. When I give people my email, they ask me if I am for real. It turned out to be a fine choice... all my new friends want to keep track of whereshegoes. I chose it without much thought, mostly because it would be easy for my mom to remember.

Where are you going? She inquired when I told her my intention to travel for a year. With earnest determination, I answered her as honestly as I could, I dunno, Mum. Everywhere, I guess.

She paused, raising her left eyebrow incredulously as an impressed smile slowly crept across her face. Hum… She shook her head less with doubt and more with gentle resignation. Well, I don’t want to have to worry about you Carmella, she informed me sternly, feigning exasperation. My father had resisted my decision and for a second, I feared I wouldn’t have Mom’s blessing either. After a long moment she sighed and lovingly demanded just one thing: You had better make sure you let me know where you go.

And just like that, WhereSheGoes was born.

Greece

July 20: Athens, Greece

The train ride from Switzerland to Venice was long but I got through it in one piece. I was so looking forward to the sleeper train but didn’t count on waking up to a strange man staring at me from the doorway. It was really creepy when I realized he was just standing there, waiting for me to open my eyes. He chatted my ear off for the next hour having a one-way conversation with himself at my expense. There was no way to shut him up no matter how uninterested I looked.

When I got outside the train station, I practically had to run away from my new overzealous admirer. I mean, he was nice enough but a tad overpowering. The language barrier is beginning to become more and more apparent. After escaping my stalker, I proceeded to get lost all around Venice. Fortunately, I had the entire day to find the port I was leaving from.

I found a stylish café in one of the squares and ate a panini loaded with salty meat and creamy cheese. Don’t ever ask me to find that restaurant again though as squares like this are a dime a dozen. Did you know that the little birds in Venice know how to beg like dogs? It was darling but a slightly depressing at the same time. Of course I fed one (or three) and then they all came. Oops!

Venice is one fine-looking city. They have water taxis, water police and even water ice cream trucks! Well, not trucks, but you know what I mean. It’s easy to lose your way, but the narrow cobble streets are so charming that getting lost is a treat. I thought of how hilarious it would be if I fell into a canal with my big backpack. Then I looked in the murky, polluted water and realized it wouldn’t be funny at all.

Once I found my ship, I was relieved to get on and relax in a cool area. I had just found a comfortable position when a crew member informed I was in the wrong place. An Australian, John, was also in the wrong place, so we tried to find the right place together. After two tries (first too loud and second too stuffy), we found a decent place to live for the next 27 hours. I had no idea it was going to be that long or I would have brought a lunch. I have been on longer luxury cruises but this is entirely different. People camp out anywhere and everywhere, even under the stairs! You can pay to upgrade to a room or a chair, but this was clearly not in the budget for most of my fellow passengers.

After John’s successful lemon hunt, we had a tequila party on the deck. This is where we ended up sleeping as well. It was a tad windy but the cement wasn’t as hard as it looked. Although the tequila was weak, we managed to have a good time. After we finished the whole bottle, I didn’t even feel