Smart Guide Italy: Central Italian Cities: Smart Guide Italy, #20
By Alexei Cohen
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About this ebook
Smart Guide Italy is packed with advice and tips that will help newcomers and veteran travelers get the most from their visit to Italy. Along with background information to all major sights and monuments readers will discover great places to eat, sleep and enjoy the dolce vita.
Smart Guide is an independent digital travel publisher with 25 guides to all of Italy's cities and regions. Each title in the series provides insights to the most important monuments and useful information for eating, drinking, and having a good time in Italy. Smart Guide also offers an online accommodation service that allows travelers to enjoy local hospitality, lower their CO2 impact and save.
Other Guides in the Smart Guide series include:
Cities & Regions:
Rome & Lazio / Florence & Tuscany / Genova & Liguria / Turin, Piedmont & Aosta / Milan & Lombardy / Trentino-Alto Adige / Venice & Veneto / Bologna & Emilia Romagna / Le Marche / Umbria / Naples & Campania / Abruzzo & Molise / Puglia / Basilicata & Clabria / Sardinia
Multiple Regions:
Northern Italy / Central Italy / Southern Italy / Italian Islands / Italy
Cities:
Northern Italian Cities / Southern Italian Cities / Grand Tour: Rome, Florence, Venice & Naples
Alexei Cohen
I fell in love with Italy while watching the movie La Strada in the basement of my university library. Since then I have met and married an Italian, written and edited several guides and enjoyed a lot of pasta, wine and gelato. I live with my family on the outskirts of Rome and cultivate my passion for Italy a little more everyday. Moon Rome, Florence & Venice is my latest book and a result of months of exploration. I look forward to sharing what I have discovered and meeting travelers in Rome to swap stories over a cappuccino.
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Smart Guide Italy - Alexei Cohen
Smart Guide Italy: Central Italian Cities
Published by Smart Guides
Smashwords Edition
Copyright 2013 Smart Guide Italy
Other titles in the Smart Guide Italy series:
Cities & Regions
Rome & Lazio / Florence & Tuscany / Genova & Liguria / Turin, Piedmont & Aosta / Milan & Lombardy / Trentino-Alto Adige / Venice & Veneto / Bologna & Emilia Romagna / Le Marche / Umbria / Naples & Campania / Abruzzo & Molise / Puglia / Basilicata & Clabria / Sardinia
Multiple Regions
Northern Italy / Central Italy / Southern Italy / Italian Islands / Italy
Cities
Northern Italian Cities / Southern Italian Cities / Grand Tour: Rome, Florence, Venice & Naples
License Notes
This ebook is licensed for your personal enjoyment only. This ebook may not be re-sold or given away to other people. If you would like to share this book with another person, please purchase an additional copy for each recipient. If you’re reading this book and did not purchase it, or it was not purchased for your use only, then please return to Smashwords and purchase your own copy. Thank you for respecting the hard work of this author.
Smart Accommodation:
Smart Guide has teamed up with over 5,000 bed and & breakfasts, self-catering apartments and small hotels in order to provide travelers with convenient, reasonably priced accommodation in the best locations throughout Italy. To view all our accommodation options visit our website and choose the one that’s right for you. Enjoy the journey!
Smart Answers:
Travel requires making choices. If you have any questions regarding your trip to Italy write to us and we will get back to you within 24 hours. If you have any comments or suggestions that will help improve future editions we’d love to hear them.
CONTENTS
FOREWORD
Preparing
Planning
Top Stops
ROME
Sights
Forums, Palatino and Capitolino
Aventino and Testaccio
Trastevere
Campo Dei Fiori and Piazza Navona
Tridente
Vatican
Entertainment
Events
Shopping
Sports and Recreation
Food
Accommodations
Information and Services
Getting There
Getting Around
Near Rome
Appia Antica
Garbatella
Eur
Ostia Antica
FLORENCE
Sights
Entertainment
Festivals and Events
Sports and Recreation
Food
Accommodation
Information and Services
Getting There
Getting Around
Near Florence
La Petraia
Villa Gamberaia
Fiesole
Prato
BOLOGNA
Sights
Entertainment and Events
Shopping
Sports and Recreation
Food
Accommodation
Information and Services
Getting There
Getting Around
FOREWORD
Dear Traveler,
One of the great things about Italy are the historical and cultural differences which can be experienced within a short geographic distance. Cities in particular are quite distinct from each other and perhaps the central Italian ones provide the best example of that uniqueness. This guide is meant to help you discover the sights, sounds and flavors that make Rome, Florence and Bologna special. It includes detailed information on the most interesting monuments, events and activities as well as practical information for getting to and from each destination.
Visiting Rome, Florence and Bologna is always a pleasure but seeing them all in a single journey is a delight for the eyes, mind and palate. It’s an adventure which should be savored rather than rushed regardless of how much time you have. Prepare to get a whole new perspective on Italy and perhaps even discard some preconceptions about a country which never ceases to surprise.
We don’t just provide great insight though, with Smart Guide Italy B&B you can also find convenient accommodation. Now you can stay in the comfort of an Italian home, get a unique local perspective and save. Just visit our website and choose the accommodation you prefer.
Enjoy the journey!
Alexei Cohen
Series Editor
PREPARING
No matter how much time you have Italy will leave you feeling like you missed something. Even if you concentrate on three cities like Rome, Florence and Bologna the possibility of seeing every painting, piazza, or church is impossible. It’s best therefore not to cram too much into whatever time you do have and take a relaxed apporach. Although these cities are not especially large they are incredibly dense and there are a thousand places to get sidetracked. Five to seven days is enough to get an overview of all three cities. Eight to twelve days allows you to get off the beaten track, stop checking your watch and explore some interesting sights outside the historic centers. Air, train, and road transportation make getting around easy.
When To Go
Tourism is a year round reality in Italy that peaks in August and during the Christmas and Easter holidays. There is no single best time to visit and what period you choose depends on personal preference in weather, cost, service, and elbow room. As far as climate is concerned summers are warm and winters are mild throughout central Italy. The Tyrrhenian is generally warmer than the Adriatic and July and August can be unbearably hot while mountain areas remain cool. Italy is generally drier than North America and Northern Europe with less humidity. You can however count on a good deal of rain in Rome in early spring and late autumn.
Spring and fall are pleasant throughout central Italy. With the exception of Easter there are less tourists waiting in line and hotels charge mid-season rates. Dining al fresco is possible in all three cities and restaurants start putting out tables in April. Mediterranean vegetation doesn’t provide the spectacular fall colors of New England but there is pleasant scenery along the train line between Rome and Bologna. Autumn is also harvest time when sagre festivals celebrate everything from chestnuts to truffles. New vintage are bottled and wine flows freely in each destination.
Summer is by far the most popular time to visit. Everyone wants to see Italy under blue skies and hotels take advantage of demand to raise their prices. Airlines also charge their highest fares and tickets should be purchased well in advance. You’re more likely to hear German, French, and English in Florence than Italian. Reservations are mandatory and if you’ll be traveling by car expect traffic. The majority of Italians go on vacation in August and over 70 percent decide to remain within the country. Weather is good up and down the peninsula and waters are at their warmest. The flip side of this mass exodus is that you’re less likely to be hit by a moped in Bologna or Rome. Temperatures, however, can rise into the 100s and many bars, shops, and restaurants close. Each city has a summer festival with nightly events in historic piazzas and villas. Paul McCartney, Simon and Garfunkle, and Billy Joel have all played in the shadow of the colosseum in August.
Winter is packed with religious festivals and nativity scenes start to appear in churches on the first of December. Rome, Florence and Bologna have their own particularly holidays. Each comes with mouth-watering delicacies and flavours vary from week-to-week. Children look forward to January 6th when La Befana brings them an assortment of treats. Christmas is generally less commercial and if you want a white one your best chance is in Bologna. There are picturesque Christmas markets and locals stay warm with hot wine and hearty dishes. There are less tourists after the winter holidays and even Piazza Navona can get unusually quite. In January and Febuary art lovers can spend quality time with their favorite paintings without standing on their toes. Accommodation is more affordable and last minute travelers will have no problem finding a room.
What To Bring
The contents of your suitcase depends on the season and length of stay. Beware of overpacking and select comfortable clothing that can easily be mixed and matched. Layers are important in spring and fall when mornings are chilly and temperatures vary throughout the day. A bag with wheels will make getting around train train stations and to the next hotel easier. Backpacks or handbags are good for storing items you’ll take on daily excursions and should have zippers to dissuade pickpockets. It’s probably best to leave expensive watches at home and travel without any flashy jewelry. A money belt can be useful for storing necessary valuables and cash.
Some formal clothes may be necessary if you plan on any fine dining or clubbing. Italians generally like to dress up and rarely let their fashion guard down. Flipflops are fine for the beach but the Swiss Guard won’t permit them inside the Vatican. Keep in mind knees and shoulders must be covered when entering religious buildings. Sun glasses are essential during the summer especially if you’ll be doing any driving and baseball hats are useful even if they aren’t often worn by Italians. A high spf sun lotion is also vital.
You’ll probably do more walking than at home and it’s hazardous for your feet to break in a new pair of shoes on cobblestone streets. Bring at least two comfortable pairs. If you’re only off for a week it may be useful to buy sample size shampoo, toothpaste, and soap that will keep weight down and cause less damage if they accidentally open. If you forget something you shouldn’t have a problem finding it in Italy and pharmacies are especially useful for replacing lost toiletries or picking up aspirin. If you take prescription drugs make sure to bring enough and have a copy of the prescription in case you need a refill.
Most hotels provide hairdryers but if you are staying in a B&B you may want to pack a small one. It should be adaptable to Italy’s 220 voltage. A European plug converter is useful for recharging mp3 players, digital cameras, cellular phones and of course your tablet or e-reader. Adapters can be hard to find in Italy and airports are usually the best place to pick them up. If you’re taking photos the old fashion way stock up on film before you leave as it’s more expensive in Italy. An extra memory card is useful for digital photographers planning on documenting every step of the journey.
Items like binoculars are helpful for observing the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel, church facades, and Italian wildlife. Pack a pen if you plan on writing any postcards and a notebook for jotting down impressions of hill towns and memories of seaside lunches. Even if you aren’t an artist try sketching the sights or making souvenir rubbings of the ruins you encounter. A good book will help pass the time on long distance train or bus trips or while waiting your turn at the post office.
You’ll need your passport and a driving license if you plan on renting a car. An international license is not required but it can avoid confusion if you are pulled over. It only costs $20 and is available from any AAA office in the United States. Making a copy of vital documents facilitates replacing them should they be lost or stolen. You can also email yourself any important credit card codes or customer service numbers to report stolen cards. Most of all don’t forget to pack your curiosity.
PLANNING
It’s impossible to see and do it all in Italy but with a week an ambitious traveler can experience a good deal of Rome, Florence and Bologna. The most efficient way to do this is by train as new high speed service connects the cities quickly, efficiently and drops you off directly in the historic center. We suggest three days in the Italian capital and two in each of the other cities but you can divide your time based on your interests. Once you arrive take a bus tour to get an overview or grab a multi-day transportation pass that allows you to follow your curiosity wherever it leads. This is especially useful in Rome which is the largest of the three cities and the most tiring to explore on foot. Florence and Bologna are both extremely bikeable and well equipped for this type of transportation. You’ll find more useful information about getting around in each of the city sections.
Rome is deceptive. On a map it looks relatively compact but once you hit the ground the density of the historic center can be overwhelming. Plan on three days to see the city’s trademark sights with any additional time used to visit museums, walk down the Appian Way, or visit Ostia Antica on the outskirts of the city.
It’s a good idea to approach the city neigborhood by neigborhood. You could do this chronologically starting with the oldest parts first or begin wherever you happen to be staying. There are no sharp divisions between neighborhoods other than the Tiber river and everything is within walking distance. That’s not to say your feet won’t hurt after a day on Roman cobblestones. They will and the 110 tour bus is a relaxing alternative that provides a quick overview of the city. Public transportation is also convenient and a single or three-day pass gets you around the city relatively quickly.
Most areas can be covered in a long morning or afternoon with the chance to extend a visit by entering one of the many museums located in each neighborhood. The Roman Forum, for example, can be visited in a couple of hours but is a natural one-two combo with the Museo Capitolino where many of the sight’s artifacts are displayed.
Season can also make a difference in the lines outside the Vatican Museums or waiting to stick their hands into the mouth of truth. Low season however, is never that low and lasts from November to March. There are spikes at Christmas and Easter, and the city’s tourist population increases dramatically during the summer. August is a double edged sword. Yes, there are thousands of tourists but on the other hand many Romans leave the city and traffic is at its calmest. Stores close during this period but there’s also a wide range of outdoor concerts and cultural activities in parks and along the Tiber. It’s also the hottest time when local newscasts start to warn residents about the risks of heatstroke and remind them to drink plenty of water and remain indoors.
Florence is on a lot of people’s must-see lists. The word has been out for centuries now and the city has gained Holy Grail status for anyone interested in art, culture, or nature. Season and itinerary therefore are everything as it can be a merry-go-round of tourists nearly all year long. August is crowded but there are hundreds of extraordinary events. Winters are mild and do little to discourage the flow of visitors. The best thing to do is approach Florence from lesser-known angles, ditch the car in favor of a bike or on foot, and search for agriturismo accommodation. Certainly the classics like David and the Duomo are worth seeing but there are many examples of beauty that still don’t get the recognition they deserve.
Bologna is Italy’s breadbasket and home to some of the greatest culinary innovations of all time. Tortellini, parmegiano and prosciutto are all good reasons to visit this mouthwatering city but if you need more persuasion like art, history and culture you’ll find that too. Unlike faster-paced Italian cities Bologna sets the standard in hospitality. Here people aren’t in a rush and take the time to share the finer things in life with friends and strangers. Maybe that’s because the main mode of transportation is not the car, nor even the eponymous Italian scooter, but the bicycle! And not even the modern-day mountain bike, but bikes with 20 or 30 years on them with a basket in the front (convenient for running errands) and a baby seat in the back for carrying tots. Life on two wheels is one of the reasons Bologna’s historical center remains well preserved, elegant, and treasure trove of art.
TOP STOPS
Colosseum/Rome
There was only one place to be on a Saturday afternoon in antiquity. Only one place where the bread was free and the spectacle guaranteed. The Colosseum was the stage for life and death drama where spectators had a say and affected the course of events with their cheers or jeers. Within these walls gladiators were worshipped like Hollywood stars and tangled with wild animals and each other in epic confrontations.
Roman Forum/Rome
The Foro may not look like much today but this small strip of land contains the highest concentration of ancient Roman treasures anywhere. Politics, commerce, and justice were all centered here. Visitors can wander around the triumphal arches and basilicas and imagine following in Caesar’s footsteps.
Pantheon/Rome
After nearly 2,000 years the Pantheon barely has a wrinkle. The dome was the widest masonry span in the world until the New Orleans Superdome was built in 1961. The immense portico