Sailing With Senta: Africa calls
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Having spent two months living on board Senta in the uninhabited Salamon Atoll of the Chagos Archipelago in the middle of the Indian Ocean, Faith and Pierre had a decision to make. Where to now? Eastwards to Malaysia and Thailand or Westwards to see the new millennium in with family and friends in South Africa.
They chose the latter. This book, the third in the series, describes their final months at Chagos, the homeward journey via Madagascar and their subsequent return in 2000 to Chagos via Madagascar, Mayotte, Zanzibar, Tanzania and Seychelles.
Colour photographs and charts help tell the story.
Faith Van Rooyen
Born 1938. Educated at Yeoville Convent, Johannesburg High School for Girls and Witwatersrand University, all in South Africa. Worked for more rhan 35 years in the computer software industry, designing and writing and implementing systems for business on mainframes and personal computers. Retired in 1995 to fulfil a life-time dream of cruising with her husband Pierrre on their forty foot Armel sailing boat, Senta.
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Sailing With Senta - Faith Van Rooyen
Sailing with Senta - Africa Calls
By Faith Van Rooyen
Copyright 2013 Faith Van Rooyen
Smashwords Edition, License Notes
This book is licensed for your personal enjoyment only. This book may not be re-sold or given away to other people. If you would like to share this book with another person, please purchase an additional copy for each recipient. If you're reading this book and did not purchase it, or it was not purchased for your use only, then please return to Smashwords.com and purchase your own copy. Thank you for respecting the hard work of this author.
Table of Contents
Other Books in this series
Acknowledgements
Chapter One Homeward Bound
Chapter Two Madagascar Meanderings
Chapter Three Madagascar to South Africa
Chapter Four In South Africa
Chapter Five South Africa to Madagascar
Chapter Six Madagascar to Zanzibar
Chapter Seven Zanzibar to Tanzania
Chapter Eight Tanzania to Perhos Banhos
Appendices
Glossary
Other Books in the Series
Sailing With Senta - Eastward Ho!
Sailing With Senta - Across Coral Seas
Sailing With Senta - Africa Calls
Sailing With Senta - Tropical Dream
Sailing With Senta - Borneo Here We Come
Sailing With Senta - Playtime in the Philippines
Sailing With Senta - Small Boat Voyaging
Acknowledgements
Many thanks to
Judith Ryder, long time friend in Wakkerstroom, South Africa, who has spent a decade managing our affairs while we sailed among Indian Ocean islands.
All the new friends we made along the way who helped us find out how wonderful the cruising life style can be.
For Pierre, Brett and Ingrid.
-------------------- ooo --------------------
Chapter One Homeward Bound
Pierre and I had spent the previous year sailing across the coral seas between Chagos and the Far East. It was time to wend our way home to South Africa to greet the new millennium with family and friends and to plan and prepare for our next cruising adventure.
We had to wait for the south-east trade winds to arrive, probably towards the end of May, so we still had some time to enjoy life with our fellow cruisers at Salamon Atoll in the Chagos Archipelago.
Towards the end of April we went for a dinghy ride with Colin and Glyn to Isle de Passe, about six miles away, where most of the French boats were anchored.
The main object of the trip was to buy copies of the 'East African Pilot' from the author, Delwyn McPhunn (Poon) who was staying at Isle de Passe with his friend Sylvie in her boat Gavilan.
There are no rats and hence no mosquitoes on Isle de Passe and the island is cooled by the onshore south east wind. The only negative factor is the small area for good anchoring and the proximity of reefs and coral heads.
Colin and Glyn took the dinghy out through the pass and within an hour were back with two 10kg yellow fin tuna, a kingfish and a coral trout. Most of the fish were left behind for the Isle de Passe residents, as they had not caught fish for some time.
Fish for the French at Isle de Passe.
Back at Boddam Island Andy from Sara organised a dance and party on Sunset Beach starting at five in the afternoon. Andy played the music on her piano accordion There was square dancing and a great time was had by all. We were tired from all the loafing around in paradise so did not go. The next day when asked where we had been, I replied that we were Calvinists and our religion did not allow us to dance, or even be in the presence of other people who were dancing. I am obviously a good liar, because most people believed me and were quite embarrassed until I laughed.
The yacht Pagan arrived with Jerry, Manuella, four year old Jack and two year old Jessica on board. There was a problem with the gearbox on their engine. Investigation and help from the engine experts in the anchorage showed that a new clutch plate was required as the inner workings of the old one had completely fallen apart. This was a problem in such a remote spot. But Gallivant, Christine and Trevor Winer's boat had satellite communications and commercial e-mail. So the part was ordered from the USA and sent via a United States air force base to Diego Garcia, an atoll in the Chagos archipelago, about 130 miles from Salamon. From there it was brought to Salamon on board the fisheries patrol vessel, the Pacific Marlin. All within a fortnight. This willingness of cruising folk to help each other solve problems was something we had not anticipated, but encountered often.
At the end of April the South African yachts organized an afternoon of hermit crab racing. For days yotties scoured the islands looking for fast moving hermits, an oxymoron if ever there was one. The selected crabs were decorated in the racing colours of their owners, and training commenced in earnest.
Hermit crab race.
When the day arrived excitement ran high. Everyone inspected the competition. Some abandoned their runners and went quickly in search of new ones, if they thought theirs might be too slow. Claire from Brumby would not show her steed in advance. He was kept secret in a large cardboard box.
The track was prepared. The sand on the volleyball court area was levelled and swept clean. A circle about five metres in diameter was drawn on the sand and the centre carefully marked. The centre was to be the starting point and the circumference of the circle the winning post. A second circle was drawn a metre outside the inner circle. All spectators and crab handlers had to stand outside this outer circle, to prevent interference with opposition crabs. Entry fees consisted of something small and spare to be given away as prizes.
Colin was the starting official. He asked the owners and trainers to put their crabs into a blue plastic bucket, which he then turned upside down on the centre spot. After a minute or so to let the crabs turn themselves the right side up the basin was removed and the crabs scattered in all directions egged on by much shouting from their supporters. First across the circumference of the inner circle would be the winner.
Start of a crab race Pierre on the right.
Claire's entry was revealed and there were shouts of 'Protest!', 'Call the stewards!', 'That's not fair!', 'He is a coconut crab, not a hermit'. But Claire insisted that her large maroon creature to whose back she had attached a small white shell, did qualify as a hermit crab. The judge's decision was final. I was the judge and had received a substantial bribe from Claire in advance, so the entry was allowed. But all to no avail. The large, lazy coconut crab took after Pooh Bear and was a crab 'of very little brain'. He did not catch on to the game and either wandered aimlessly around inside the circle or sat watching the frenzied activity of the other crabs. By the end of the twelfth and