Java: Includes Yogyakarta, Borobudur and Solo

Java is Indonesia’s political, economic and cultural heartland. With 60% of the country’s population, the capital Jakarta, and the great bulk of Indonesia’s industrial muscle, Java is the critical piece in the Indonesian jigsaw. It was here that many of the early, pre-colonial empires and kingdoms were based – reflected in monuments such as Borobudur and Prambanan, and in many smaller temples. Cities like Yogyakarta and Solo remain vibrant artistic and cultural centres, while Bogor and Bandung show more clearly the hand of the relatively short-lived Dutch presence. The latter, particularly, is renowned for its art deco architecture. Jakarta, as Indonesia’s capital, has the most restaurants, the largest museums, and the widest array of shopping, but it is not a particularly enticing city.

The hand of humans has always had to contend with the forces of nature and nowhere is this clearer than in the battle against Java’s volcanoes. From Krakatau off the west coast of Java to Gunung Bromo in East Java, a spine of active volcanoes runs through the island. While these volcanoes periodically bring destruction, they also provide the basis for a string of hill resorts and towns, and the fertile soil needed for feeding this incredibly densely populated island.

Planning your trip

Jakarta’s Soekarno-Hatta Airport 25 km northwest of the city, T021 550 5177, www.jakartasoekarnohattaairport.com, is where most visitors arrive. It connects Jakarta with all other major cities and towns in the country, as well as regional and global destinations. Budget carriers flying into Jakarta include AirAsia (from Singapore, KL in Malaysia, Bangkok and Phuket in Thailand), and Jetstar Asia (from Singapore). State-owned Garuda, Merpati and all international airlines operate from Terminal 2. Domestic airlines use Terminal 1. Terminal 3 is used by Indonesia AirAsia.

Facilities at the airport include car rental, currency exchange booths, ATMs, left-luggage facilities (outside the Arrivals hall), hotel booking counter, a taxi desk, tourist information desk (with maps), the Transit Hotel, the Transit Restaurant, fast-food outlets, a 24-hour post office, long-distance calls, and internet and cell phone connectivity facilities.

Metered taxis to the centre of town cost about 90,000Rp (plus toll fees of 11,500Rp). Only taxis with official Taxi Bandara stickers on their windscreens are allowed to pick up passengers at the airport. The airport authorities hand out complaints cards for visitors to complete, setting out the toll charges and surcharges applicable. Allow at least an hour to reach the airport from the centre of town, more at peak times. Damri T021 550 1290, www. damri.co.id, runs air-conditioned buses from Terminal 2 F/E to Jakarta’s Gambir railway station every 15-30 minutes from 0500-1830 (one hour, 20,000Rp).

The Gambir railway station is also a major arrival point in Jakarta. There is a Blue Bird taxi rank just to the north of the station, which charges a 4500Rp surcharge. The journey to Jalan Jaksa costs around 20,000Rp (the centre for budget accommodation). Alternatively, those with little luggage will be able to manage the 10-minute walk. Air-conditioned Damri buses also run to Blok M, Jalan Bulungan, and Kemayoran. There are also buses running to Bogor (35,000Rp) and Bandung (70,000Rp), for those that want to avoid Jakarta. Many of the first-class hotels lay on transport.

Air

The most convenient and comfortable way to travel is by air. Garuda (www.garuda-indonesia. com) and Merpati (www.merpati.co.id) service all the main provincial cities. Merpati tends to operate the short-hop services to smaller destinations, particularly in eastern Indonesia.

The other main domestic airlines are Lion Air (www.lionair.co.id), proud owner of a fleet of sparkling B737-900s, and Indonesia AirAsia (www.airasia.com). Other key players are Batavia Air (www.batavia-air.co.id) and Sriwijaya (www.sriwijayaair-online.com). All these airlines cover major destinations in Indonesia. Smallest of all are DAS, SMAC and Deraya (www.deraya.co.id) and Susi Air (www.susiair.com), which tend to service smaller towns in Java and the outer islands, especially Kalimantan and Sumatra. In Nusa Tenggara, travellers often have to use Merpati, or one of the local outfits such as Trans Nusa (www. transnusa.co.id) and Indonesia Air Transport (www.iat.co.id).

By international standards, flights in Indonesia are cheap. It is also considerably cheaper buying tickets in Indonesia than it is purchasing them abroad. Airlines such as Garuda, Lion Air, Batavia Air and AirAsia have an online booking system for use with Visa or MasterCard. Garuda flights can be reserved online. Offices in larger towns will usually accept credit card payment, although smaller branch offices in out-of-the-way places will often only take cash payment. Some airlines give student reductions. During holiday periods, flights are booked up some time ahead. For details of domestic airport tax, see here.

Boat

The national shipping company is Pelayaran Nasional Indonesia (PELNI) Jln Gajah Mada 14, Jakarta, T021 633 4342, www.pelni.co.id. Many travel agents also sell PELNI tickets and, although they levy a small surcharge, may be far more convenient. PELNI operates a fleet of modern passenger ships that ply fortnightly circuits throughout the archipelago. The ships are well run and well maintained, have an excellent safety record, and are a comfortable and leisurely way to travel. Each accommodates 500-2250 passengers in five classes, has central air conditioning, a bar, restaurant and cafeteria. The unprecedented growth in the domestic airline industry in the past few years has seen PELNI profits take a beating, with more and more routes being cut annually. Note that sailing with PELNI can take some planning as departures in more remote parts of the country can be as far apart as two weeks. Check the PELNI website for the lastest schedule.

Rail

Passenger train services are limited to Java and certain areas of Sumatra. Trains are usually slow and often delayed. Single track connects many major cities. First class is air conditioned with a dining car. There are two main trunk routes on Java: Jakarta–Cirebon–Semarang–Surabaya and Jakarta–Bandung–Yogyakarta–Solo (Surakarta)–Surabaya. The principal services are identified by name, for example, the Bima is the air-conditioned night-express from Jakarta via Yogya and Solo, to Surabaya (12 hours); the Mutiara Utara is the northern route train to Surabaya via Semarang; the Senja Utama Solo is the express train to Yogya and Solo; while the Senja Utama Semarang is the express train to Cirebon and Semarang. There are three classes: Eksekutif is first class, with air conditioning, reclining seats and breakfast included. Business (bisnis) is fan-cooled, with pillows provided; and Ekonomi, with rather run-down, well-used coaches, broken fans and windows that may or may not open – this class is subject to overcrowding. All three classes can be booked. Reservations should be made well in advance; it is often easier through a travel agent in the town where you are staying. Fares and timetables can be found at www.kereta-api.co.id (only in Indonesian) – for schedules, train names and fares head to the ‘Jadwal & Tarif’ link.

Road

Bicycle In some of the more popular tourist destinations, guesthouses and some tour companies hire out bicycles. These vary in quality – check the brakes before you set off. Expect to pay about 25,000Rp per day for a locally or Chinese-built mountain bike.

Bus Road transport in Indonesia has improved greatly in recent years, and main roads on most of the islands are generally in reasonably good condition though somewhat overcrowded. In many areas main roads may be impassable during the rainy season and after severe storms.

Most Indonesians get around by bus. The network is vast and although it is not always quick or comfortable, buses are the cheapest way to travel. There are a range of bus alternatives from Bis Ekonomi (dirt cheap, cramped but a good way to mingle with Indonesians), to Bis VIP (icy cold, fully reclinable seats with plenty of space). Visitors are most likely to find themselves on fairly comfy Bis Malam, air-conditioned buses that plough the roads of the archipelago each night and deposit red-eyed passengers at their desination at dawn just in time for morning prayers.

Avoid the seats at the front, which are the most dangerous if there is a crash. Roads are often windy and rough, and buses are badly sprung (or totally un-sprung). Despite harrowingly fast speeds at times, do not expect to average much more than 40 kph except on the best highways. Overnight buses are usually faster and recommended for longer journeys. However, air-conditioned overnighters can be very cold and a sarong or blanket is useful.

Tickets can be obtained from bus company offices or through travel agents; shop around for the best fare – bargaining is possible. It is sensible to book a day or so ahead for longer journeys. During Ramadan and at Lebaran, all forms of public transport are packed.

Shuttle buses or Travels are found in the main tourist areas on Bali and Lombok and increasingly between the major cities in Java. In Bali they operate almost exclusively for the benefit of foreigners connecting the most popular destinations, with a fixed daily timetable. They will pick up and drop off passengers at their hotels and take a great deal of the hassle out of travel.

Car and motorbike hire Cars can be hired for self-drive or with a driver. Motorbike hire is available at many beach resorts and increasingly in other towns. It is illegal to ride without a helmet, although this can just be a construction worker’s hard hat. Many machines are poorly maintained: check brakes and lights before paying.

Taxi Taxis are metered in the major cities. Drivers often cannot change large bills. All registered taxis, minibuses and rental cars have yellow number plates; black number plates are for private vehicles, and red are for government-owned vehicles.

Other forms of local road transport

Bajaj Small three-wheeled motor scooters similar to the Thai tuk-tuk. They are probably the cheapest form of ‘taxi’ after the becak, but are only available in big cities.

Becaks Becaks or bicycle rickshaws are one of the cheapest, and most important, forms of short-distance transport in Indonesia. Literally hundreds of thousands of poor people make a living driving becaks. However, they are now illegal in central Jakarta and often officially barred from main thoroughfares in other large cities. Bargain hard and agree a fare before boarding.

Bemos These are small buses or adapted pickups operating on fixed routes. They usually run fixed routes for fixed fares (it varies between towns, but around 3000Rp), but can also be chartered by the hour or day.

Ojeks Motorcycle taxis. Ojek riders, often wearing coloured jackets, congregate at junctions, taking passengers pillion to their destination. Agree a price before boarding and bargain hard.

Oplets Larger versions of bemos carrying 10-12 passengers. They have a bewildering number of other names – daihatsu in Semarang, angkuta in Solo, microlets in Jakarta, while in rural areas they tend to be called colts. In larger cities, bemos/colts often follow fixed routes. They are sometimes colour coded, sometimes numbered, sometimes have their destinations marked on the front – and sometimes all three. For intra-city trips there is usually a fixed fare (it varies between towns, but around 3000Rp) although it is worth asking one of your fellow passengers what the harga biasa (normal price) is, or watch what is being handed to the driver or his sidekick by fellow passengers. In the countryside, routes can vary and so do fares; be prepared to bargain. Oplets can also be chartered by the hour or day (bargain hard).

Maps

Locally, maps may not be available beyond the larger cities, and often the quality is poor. Nelles A good series of maps of the major islands and island groups. Periplus Travel Maps A recent series of maps to the major islands including some to individual provinces. Good on tourist site information and often with good city insets.

Tourist and business centres usually have a good range of accommodation for all budgets. Bali, for example, has some of the finest hotels in the world – at a corresponding price -along with excellent mid- and lower-range accommodation. However, visitors venturing off the beaten track may find hotels restricted to dingy and over-priced establishments catering for local businessmen and officials. The best-run and most competitively priced budget accommodation is found in popular tourist spots – like Bali and Yogya. It is almost always worth bargaining. This is particularly true for hotels in tourist destinations that attract a fair amount of local weekend business: the weekday room rate may be 50% less than the weekend rate. All hotels are required to display their room rates (for every category of room) on a daftar harga, or price list. This is invariably either in public view in the reception area or will be produced when you ask about room rates. Indonesians prefer to be on the ground floor, so rooms on higher floors are usually cheaper. In cheaper accommodation, the bed may consist only of a bottom sheet and pillow with no top sheet.

Terminology can be confusing: a losmen is a lower price range hotel (in parts of Sumatra and in some other areas, losmen are known as penginapan); a wisma is a guesthouse, but these can range in price from cheap to moderately expensive; finally, a hotel is a hotel, but can range from the cheap and squalid up to a Hilton.

With the economy faring well in Indonesia in recent years, and a more affluent middle class emerging, mid-range and top-end hotels are being built at an extraordinary rate, many offering excellent promotion rates and possessing all the mod cons an international traveller requires. The backpacker market has seen less money being poured into it than, for example, in Malaysia and Thailand, and these places can often seem to be a bit bleak and tawdry compared to cheaper digs elsewhere in Southeast Asia. The exception to this is in Bali and some parts of Lombok, where the backpacker market is still pulling in the rupiah and there are a few gems to be found.

Bathing and toilets

Baths and showers are not a feature of many cheaper losmen. Instead a mandi (a water tank and ladle) is used to wash. The tub is not climbed into; water is ladled from the tub and splashed over the head. The traditional Asian toilet is of the squat variety. (Toilets are called kamar kecil - the universal ‘small room’ – or way say, as in the initials ‘WC’.) Toilet paper is not traditionally used; the faithful left hand and water suffice. In cheaper accommodation you are expected to bring your own towels, soap and toilet paper.

Food

The main staple across the archipelago is rice. Today, alternatives such as corn, sweet potatoes and sago, which are grown primarily in the dry islands of the East, are regarded as ‘poor man’s food’, and rice is the preferred staple.

Indonesians will eat rice – or nasi (milled, cooked rice) – at least three times a day. Breakfast is often left-over rice, stir-fried and served up as nasi goreng. Mid-morning snacks are often sticky rice cakes or pisang goreng (fried bananas). Rice is the staple for lunch, served up with two or three meat and vegetable dishes and followed by fresh fruit. The main meal is supper, which is served quite early and again consists of rice, this time accompanied by as many as five or six other dishes. Sate/satay (grilled skewers of meat), soto (a nourishing soup) or bakmi (noodles, a dish of Chinese origin) may be served first.

In many towns (particularly in Java), sate, soto or bakmi vendors roam the streets with carts containing charcoal braziers, ringing a bell or hitting a block (the noise will signify what he or she is selling) in the early evenings. These carts are known as kaki lima (five legs). Pedagang (vendor) kaki lima also refers to hawkers who peddle their wares from stalls and from baskets hung from shoulder poles.

Larger foodstalls tend to set up in the same place every evening in a central position in town. These warungs, as they are known, may be temporary structures or more permanent buildings, with simple tables and benches. In the larger cities, there may be an area of warungs, all under one roof. Often a particular street will become known as the best place to find particular dishes like martabak (savoury meat pancakes) or gado gado (vegetable salad served with peanut sauce). It is common to