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    Smart Guide Italy: Florence: Smart Guide Italy, #27
    Smart Guide Italy: Florence: Smart Guide Italy, #27
    Smart Guide Italy: Florence: Smart Guide Italy, #27
    Ebook260 pages3 hours

    Smart Guide Italy: Florence: Smart Guide Italy, #27

    By Alexei Cohen

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    About this ebook

    Smart Guide Italy: Florence contains advice and tips that will help newcomers and veteran travelers get the most from their visit to one of Italy's most famous cities. Along with background information to all of Florence's major monuments readers will discover great places to eat, sleep and enjoy the dolce vita in the Tuscan capital. Smart Guide Italy: Florence covers: the Duomo, Uffizi Galleries, Ponte Vecchio, Palazzo Pitti, Fiesole, churches, squares, markets and much more.

    Smart Guide Features:
    -Top attractions rated according to importance
    -Historical and background information for each sight
    -Full-color photos
    -Maps of neighborhoods
    -Opening hours and contact information
    -Easy Navigation
    -Tips for making your journey memorable

    Smart Guide is the only digital travel guide devoted entirely to Italy and written, researched, and investigated by full-time residents. Each title in the series provides insights to the most important monuments and useful information for eating, drinking, sleeping and having a good time in Italy.

    Other titles in the Smart Guide series include:
    Rome & Lazio
    Venice & Veneto
    Milan & Lombardy
    Naples & Campania
    Turin, Piedmont & Aosta Valley
    Genova & Liguria
    Grand Tour: Rome, Florence, Venice & Naples

    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherAlexei Cohen
    Release dateJun 10, 2014
    ISBN9781311194923
    Smart Guide Italy: Florence: Smart Guide Italy, #27
    Author

    Alexei Cohen

    I fell in love with Italy while watching the movie La Strada in the basement of my university library. Since then I have met and married an Italian, written and edited several guides and enjoyed a lot of pasta, wine and gelato. I live with my family on the outskirts of Rome and cultivate my passion for Italy a little more everyday. Moon Rome, Florence & Venice is my latest book and a result of months of exploration. I look forward to sharing what I have discovered and meeting travelers in Rome to swap stories over a cappuccino.

    Read more from Alexei Cohen

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      Book preview

      Smart Guide Italy - Alexei Cohen

      Preface

      Dear Traveler,

      Welcome to the 2014 edition of Smart Guide Italy: Florence & Tuscany. A new edition means two things: first of all we survived. There are many travel guide options these days but over 5,000 travelers from around the world chose Smart Guide and allowed our independent team of writers and researchers to continue doing what we love. The second thing a new edition means is that we’ve tried to improve everything.

      We didn’t just want to fact check and update listings but to evolve the guide and do everything we could to improve your experience. For starters that meant adding maps and photographs of key destinations. It also meant reevaluating content and where it was presented. In this edition we have emphasized neighborhoods and positioned all relevant information about an area in the same place. We figured if you’re walking through San Giovanni you’ll want to know what to see as well as where to eat, drink and shop.

      We’ve also added many internal links within the guide. That saves time and helps you discover the things you want to experience. We’ve also added new content on planning, practicalities and essential such as dining, getting around, services, kids, language, prices and background resources.

      Those are just some the changes we hope will make your journey even more memorable.

      Alexei Cohen

      Series Editor

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      Introducing Florence & Tuscany

      Imagine Tuscany and many of Italy's trademark images come to mind. The leaning tower of Pisa, the statue of David and the soft, gentle hills that English poets described as the entrance to heaven. The region contains a fine assortment of well preserved towns and cities to explore from the miniature Pienza to the magnificent Florence.

      For a while this was the center of the world, a place where new ideas were the currency of choice. During the golden age of the Renaissance artists, architects and aristocrats like Raffaello, Brunelleschi, and the Medicis brought innovation to nearly every endeavor they undertook. Traces of their extraordinary creativity can be experienced from the ramparts of Lucca to the stained glass windows of Siena's cathedral. Tuscany is where Galileo studied the theory of motion and where Michelangelo began his extraordinary career.

      It's no wonder the region is crowded during the summer and hearing English, German, or French is nearly as common as Italian. But don't let that discourage you. Tuscany is relatively large and there is no limit to what can be discovered. It may take getting off the beaten track but it will be worth your while.

      Quick Facts: Florence

      population: 365,800

      foundation: 80 b.c.

      elevation: 50 m

      gps: 43°47’N 11°15’E

      currency: euro

      dialing code: 05

      time zone: GMT +1

      What’s New?

      Florence and Tuscany certainly have plenty of history but they are in no way stuck in the past and both the city and region have undergone quite a few changes in recent years. One of the biggest is political and regards the popular former mayor of Florence, Matteo Renzi, who has gone from governing Tuscany’s capital to running all of Italy. If you want to make conversation with locals just ask them what they think of Renzi (Che pensi di Renzi?). He’s responsible for many of the renovation projects around the city such as the pedestrianization of Piazza Santa Maria Novella and the construction of the T1 tram line that links the central train station (which was also refurbished) and neighborhoods to the east. There are new museums such as Museo del 900 which celebrates the 19th century and others that have been reopened after years of restoration like Museo Galileo. The city rose garden has also undergone a face lift and is open again to romantics and anyone searching for great views of the city. Cascine park along the Arno river has been cleaned up and the Parco della Musica and Stazione Leopolda have become the new cultural hubs of the city.

      Prices of course have gone up for transportation and tickets to monuments but remain reasonable and the tourist office has created a convenient Firenze Card for travelers planning on visiting multiple sights. The number of new bars, boutiques and restaurants is too great to list but one of the most important culinary openings is the Eataly food emporium in Via de’ Martelli. The news for soccer fans is that Florence’s soccer team is competitive again and will be playing in the Europa League next season.

      Of course Florence isn’t all of Tuscany but it does tend to set the tone and has encouraged other towns and cities in the region to develop their urban and cultural standards. Pisa and Siena have both done a lot of cleaning up and developing. The former city completely rennovated Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II with new paving which pedestrians can now enjoy without the annoyance of automobiles. In Lucca local government finally succeeded in purchasing the home of Puccini and transformed it into a wonderful museum for aficionados of the maestro. They also created the MUST gallery for contemporary art and the tourist office now runs a daily tour of the town. Many of the tourist offices around the region in fact have developed new ways for discovering local heritage. These and other novelties are inlcuded below .

      Planning

      When to go

      Tourism is a year-round reality in Italy that peaks in August and during the Christmas and Easter holidays. There is no single best time to visit and what period you choose depends on personal preferences regarding weather, costs, services, and elbow room. Spring and fall are pleasant in Florence and with the exception of Easter there are fewer tourists waiting in line while hotels charge mid-season rates.

      Summer is by far the most popular time to visit and hotels take advantage of the demand to raise their rates. Airlines also charge higher fares so tickets should be purchased well in advance. Keep in mind that the majority of Italians go on vacation in August and over 70 percent decide to remain within Italy. Autumn is harvest time when sagre festivals celebrate the fruit and vegetables grown in the surrounding countryside. New vintages are bottled and wine flows freely. By September schools have started again and the beaches along the Tuscan coast are slowly and reluctantly abandoned.

      Winter is filled with religious festivals but if you want a white Christmas Florence isn’t where you’ll find it. Carnival is low key in the capital and is a bigger deal in Viareggio where thousands of revelers unite to watch the parades and floats. February and March attract fewer tourists to the area so art lovers can enjoy the Uffizi galleries without feeling rushed. Accommodation is more affordable in winter and last-minute travelers will have no problem finding a room.

      What to bring

      The contents of your suitcase depends on the season and length of your stay. Beware of over packing and select comfortable clothes that can easily be mixed and matched. Layers are important in spring and fall when mornings are chilly and temperatures vary throughout the day. A suitcase with wheels will make it easier to get from airports and train stations to your hotel. Backpacks or handbags are good for storing items you’ll take on daily excursions and should have zippers to dissuade pickpockets. It’s probably best to leave expensive watches and jewelry at home and a money belt can be useful for storing necessary valuables and cash.

      Some formal clothes may be useful if you plan on any fine dining or clubbing. Italians generally like to dress up and rarely let their fashion guard down. Flip-flops and sleeveless shirts are fine for the beach but are frowned upon inside churches. Knees and shoulders must be covered when entering religious buildings. Sunglasses are essential during the summer, especially if you’ll be doing any driving, and baseball hats are useful—even if they’re uncommon on Italian heads. A high-SPF sunscreen is vital as it gets very hot on the cobblestones.

      You’ll probably do more walking in Italy than at home so bring at least two comfortable pairs of shoes. If you’re only traveling for a few days it may be useful to buy sample-size shampoo, toothpaste, and soap to keep weight down (they’ll also cause less damage if they accidentally open). If you forget something, you should have no problem finding it in Italy; pharmacies are especially useful for replacing lost toiletries or picking up aspirin. If you take medication make sure to bring enough and have a copy of your prescription in case you need a refill.

      Most hotels provide hairdryers but if you’re staying in a bed and breakfast or hostel you may want to pack one. It should be adaptable to Italy’s 220 voltage. A European plug converter is useful for recharging MP3 players, digital cameras, and cellular phones. Adapters can be hard to find in Italy and airports are usually the best place to pick them up. If you’re taking photos the old-fashioned way, stock up on film before leaving as prices are higher in Italy. An extra memory card is useful for digital photographers planning on documenting the journey. Items like binoculars are helpful for observing the ceiling of Santa Maria Novella, church facades, and rooftop panoramas. Pack some pens if you plan on writing any postcards and a notebook for jotting down impressions of neighborhoods and ingredients from memorable lunches. Even if you aren’t an artist, try sketching the sights or making souvenir rubbings of any ruins you encounter.

      You’ll need your passport and a driver’s license if you plan on renting a moped or car. An international license is not required but can avoid confusion for non-EU drivers if you’re pulled over. It costs $15 and is available from any AAA office in the United States. Making a copy of vital documents facilitates replacing them if they’re lost or stolen. You can also email yourself any important credit card codes or customer service numbers to report stolen cards. Most of all, don’t forget to pack your curiosity.

      Climate

      Not everyone has the opportunity to choose when they can travel but if you are flexible May and September are ideal months to visit. Not only are there fewer visitors but temperatures are warm, daylight is long and precipitation is low. If you must travel at a certain time make sure to plan accordingly. October and November for example although relatively mild are the rainiest months in Florence and you should prepare to spend more time indoors or have a good raincoat and waterproof shoes.

      Etiquette

      Most of the things considered rude in Europe and North America are also considered rude in Italy. One exception is lines, which rarely form any recognizable pattern and generally resemble a fumble recovery (or ruck if you prefer rugby). If you do not defend your place by saying scusi or coughing loudly you may be waiting all day for a cappuccino or slice of pizza. Fortunately number dispensers are used in post offices and most pharmacies. Personal space is generally smaller than in Anglo-Saxon countries and Italians tend to use their hands as well as words to express themselves.

      Kissing is as Italian as pizza and the way individuals demonstrate respect, friendship, and love. The most common form is the double cheek kiss. It can be uncomfortable for the uninitiated but no one will impose this greeting on you and a handshake is equally acceptable. If you observe carefully you’ll see women kissing women, women kissing men, men kissing women, men kissing men and everyone kissing children. Men who kiss each other can be good friends, colleagues, relatives, or lovers.

      Kisses are exchanged at the beginning and end of most social encounters. An Italian man introduced to an Italian woman (or vice versa) for the first time will generally exchange kisses. Men will shake hands and women may kiss or shake hands. Non-Italians can greet however they please. While citizens of other countries tend to exchange goodbyes quickly, Italians love to linger. The time between verbal indication of departure and actual physical departure can be very long and is generally spent discussing the next day and making preliminary arrangements for a future meeting.

      Italians are attached to their habits and especially those related to food. Meal times are fairly strict and most eating is done sitting down at precise hours. Tuscans generally have a light breakfast and save themselves for lunch and dinner which are usually served at 1 and 8 p.m. You won’t see as many locals snacking on the street or bus as you may back home and Florentines don’t tend to walk while they eat. Meals are usually divided alla Romana (Dutch) between friends but no one will take offence if you offer to pay. Although Tuscans are generous rounds of drinks are generally not purchased as they are in England or the United States. Drinking in general is done over a meal rather than with the intention of getting smashed and displays of public drunkenness are rare.

      The important thing to remember, as when visiting any foreign land, is to respect local customs as much as possible. Travel is about immersing oneself in another culture and adapting to new situations. It’s not about expecting everything to be like it is back home. In any case doing as the Tuscans do is probably not that different from what you already do and if it is try to appreciate the differences.

      Practicalities

      Using this guide

      Smart Guide is meant to be as flexible as possible and provide all the information you need to organize a memorable journey to Florence. It contains many internal links that are useful for creating your own personal travel plan and pursuing your interests. At the beginning of each neighborhood section you’ll find a map, transit info, a suggested itinerary and an overview of the area. Each listing contains address, opening times, telephone, website and price. Entrance fees to museums and monuments are for full price tickets while the amount listed after restaurants is the average price of a first course dish and after hotels is the cost of a double room at mid-season rates. Each sight is rated on the basis of a three star-system (*time permitting, **interesting, ***must-visit).

      Hours

      Florence is by no means a city that never sleeps. Shops generally open at 8 or 9 a.m. close at 1 p.m. and reopen at 3 or 4 p.m.. Department stores and boutiques in the center may have continual hours but the farther you get from the Piazza della Repubblica the more likely you are to find shutters drawn in the early afternoon. Opening is also affected by the day and month. Many small shops remain closed on Sundays or are only open half a day. Retailers also tend to close up for a week or two in August and during important holidays.

      Museums and restaurants usually take one day-off during the week and Monday is the preferred option. Restaurants open around 12:30 a.m. and stop serving lunch at around 3 p.m. while dinner service begins at 7:30 p.m. and ends at 10:30 p.m. at the latest. Summer hours tend to be a little later as the days are hotter and locals put off eating until temperatures cool down. Bars open early and remain so throughout the day while bakeries start selling bread and pastries before dawn and close in the early afternoon. Museum and monument opening hours may vary throughout the year and most close their ticket offices one or two hours before closure.

      Prices

      Every year local newspapers report some unwitting visitor charged an exorbitant fee for a taxi ride or cup of coffee. Tourists can be easy targets for unscrupulous business owners who charge one price for locals and another for anyone holding a map. Most Italians however are honest and to keep them that way it’s a good idea to have an idea of local prices before buying anything. Bars and shops must clearly display all their prices and taxi fares are indicated inside. Markets can be murkier but all food is generally sold by weight and clothes and other objects should have prices labeled. If they are not feel free to inquire and ask for a discount if you feel something is too expensive as haggling is acceptable. All transactions (except those conducted by nomadic salespeople around popular monuments) should be accompanied by a receipt (ricevuto) and it's always a good idea to ask for one if it isn't presented.

      The following list provides the average costs for some everyday items. Prices will fluctuate slightly depending on season, neighborhood and location but if you find yourself being charged a great deal more you are either being ripped off or have selected the most expensive establishment in Florence.

      Bars

      espresso €1.20

      cappuccino €1.40

      breakfast pastry (cornetto) €1

      triangle sandwich (tremezzino) €2

      other sandwiches €3-4.5

      fresh squeezed orange juice €2.50-3.50

      small bottle of water €1

      large bottle of water €2

      Restaurants

      small beer €2-3

      large beer €3-5

      bottle of house wine €7-10

      first course €8-11

      second course €11-15

      Other

      bus/metro fare €1.20 (single ticket)

      movie ticket €8-10

      postcard €.5-1

      unleaded/diesel €1.80/1.60 per litre

      street parking €1-1.50 per hour

      Saving

      Florence is not an overly expensive city and there are plenty of ways to save. The first and biggest savings is deciding when to visit. Prices for hotels are seasonal and you can spend a great deal less by avoiding the summer high season or religious holidays. Most museums and monuments provide discounts for children under 12, young adults between 18-25 and seniors over 65. Benefits vary from 20% off to free and are generally clearly indicated at ticket offices. Occasionally discounts are for European citizens only but if you come from outside the EU there's no harm in trying. Using the Firenze Card to visit multiple museums, gardens and villas will save time as well as money.

      Bars in the center generally charge one price for sitting down and another for eating or drinking at the counter. You'll notice most Italians drink their coffee quickly standing up while visitors prefer to sit down and sip their cappuccinos. Restaurants offer plenty of pre-fixe menus and if you don't think you can finish off an entire bottle of wine you can always ask for a half or quarter carafe. Unless you are a connoisseur you can't go wrong with house wine for price and quality. You can also prepare your very own picnic with products from a market or specialty shop and enjoy it on a quiet square or park bench.

      Taxis are relatively expensive and can be difficult to find. There are plenty of buses and trams in the center and they provide an authentic experience you can't get from the back of a cab. Single tickets are relatively cheap but if you plan on using them a lot the

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