149 Paintings You Really Should See in Europe — Italian Regions (other than Florence, Rome, The Vatican, and Venice)
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About this ebook
This chapter from Julian Porter’s essential companion to all the major European museums and galleries discusses some of the greatest paintings to be found in the museums and galleries of Italy. His passion for art began with the seven years he spent as a student tour guide in Europe. In this segment he visits Milan, Arezzo, Parma, Mantua, Assisi, Naples, Orvieto, and Padua and discusses works by masters such as Titian, Tintoretto, Bellini, Giotto, and many more.
In the usually pretentious arena of art connoisseurs, Porter’s voice stands out as fresh and original. He finds the best of the best, which he describes with entertaining irreverence, and spares you hours of sore feet and superfluous information.
Julian Porter
Julian Porter is a litigation lawyer whose other passion in life is art. He’s had a lot of fun looking at art and wants to share his enthusiasm with others. He has lectured in galleries from Madrid to St. Petersburg. He lives in Toronto.
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149 Paintings You Really Should See in Europe — Italian Regions (other than Florence, Rome, The Vatican, and Venice) - Julian Porter
6
ITALY
(Other Regions)
If you want to truly experience the artistic riches of Italy, you must be willing to explore some of the smaller cities, towns, and regions. There are so many gems that you simply must experience.
In Milan you’ll find the Brera — a small, workable gallery. This is, in my opinion, one of the three finest small galleries in the world (the other two being The Hague’s Mauritshuis and the Frick in New York).
Mantua may just be the most beautiful town in Italy. Surrounded by water, it is reached by crossing a water-level bridge to the ancient walls of the town. With limited access due to its small size, an advanced ticket to the Ducal Palace is a must.
Other places are equally enticing. Parma is a delight of a manageable town, with a grass square near the cathedral. Orvieto’s cathedral façade is on a square, and directly opposite it you can drink a Campari and watch the birds flutter to its multicoloured marble façade. And, despite its mayhem, Naples offers an extraordinary experience: when you reach the idyllic park that houses Capodimonte, you can ascend until, suddenly, you are in fresh, sparkling air.
The charm of the varied environments, along with the stunning masterpieces, make visiting these other regions of Italy an absolute must.
THE PAINTINGS
76. The Last Supper
Veronese, Paolo (Paolo Caliari), 1585
Brera Gallery, Milan
Photo: Scala / Art Resource, NY
Veronese painted this Last Supper after 1581, close to the time of his death. It is darker than usual for him and has a more serpentine feeling, all broken up with counter-motions, a pillar in the centre, disciples diving hither and thither, creating a subtle fugue of near impending violence. One has the feeling that a storm is coming. Peter appears very theatrical. Two disciples seem to be falling under the table from the shock of Jesus’ words.
This version of the Last Supper contains a lot of movement in contrast to the fixed poses in others.