149 Paintings You Really Should See in Europe — Spain
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About this ebook
This chapter from Julian Porter’s essential companion to all the major European museums and galleries discusses some of the greatest paintings to be found in the museums and galleries of Spain. His passion for art began with the seven years he spent as a student tour guide in Europe. In this segment he visits Madrid and Toledo and discusses works by masters such as Goya, Bosch, Velázquez, Picasso, El Greco, and many more.
In the usually pretentious arena of art connoisseurs, Porter’s voice stands out as fresh and original. He finds the best of the best, which he describes with entertaining irreverence, and spares you hours of sore feet and superfluous information.
Julian Porter
Julian Porter is a litigation lawyer whose other passion in life is art. He’s had a lot of fun looking at art and wants to share his enthusiasm with others. He has lectured in galleries from Madrid to St. Petersburg. He lives in Toronto.
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149 Paintings You Really Should See in Europe — Spain - Julian Porter
3
SPAIN
Madrid can be cold in the winter, hot in the summer. Nonetheless, it is an essential stop on any art lover’s tour of Europe.
The Prado is, of course, synonymous with Madrid. Once a grim gallery, it is now marvellously light and the pictures fairly sparkle against the coloured walls. It is a wonderful walk from the Prado to the Plaza Mayor — a lively, lovely square enclosed by uniform Hapsburg architecture with stores underneath the supporting arches.
Close to the Prado is the Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza, with its natural progression through immaculate spaces for displaying its impressive collection of paintings. Neither the Thyssen nor the Museo Reina Sofia — which is primarily known as the home of Picasso’s celebrated Guernica — should be overlooked.
Before leaving Spain, the short train ride from Madrid to Toledo is a must. The trip offers stunning vistas over valleys as the train climbs the hills on which Toledo is perched. After a glorious entrance to the ancient town, the journey ends at Santo Tomé, the small church that houses El Greco’s Burial of Count Orgaz.
THE PAINTINGS
34. Garden of Earthly Delights
Bosch, Hieronymus, c. 1500
Museo del Prado, Madrid
Photo: Scala / Art Resource, NY
Hieronymous Bosch — a genius out of nowhere, without precedent or artistic roots. In about 1500 he created The Garden of Earthly Delights, a huge work depicting a world gone berserk — men in clam shells, men with flowers in their assholes, monster-coloured chickadees, sexual coupling in shells, bubbles, canisters, lobster claws. It requires time to assimilate, but it is worth it. Stand all alone before this genius while the occasional gusts of tourists blow by — one minute for the painting, then off.
The work begins with Adam and Eve in the left panel, in tranquillity with benign animals. God introduces Eve to Adam. He looks worried, which may wrestle with his required look of obedience. The owl in the pink structure foresees