How to Draw Fantasy Art: Create Amazing Fantasy Characters
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About this ebook
Steve Beaumont
Steve Beaumont is well known in the film, television and computer game industries as a storyboarding and character development artist. He has produced work for such games as Tomb RaiderT - The Angel Of Darkness, KYAT and ZapperT. He has also produced artwork for graphic novels such as Godspeed, Eminem - In My Skin and Death Rap - Tupac Shakur: A Life, and is currently creating storyboards for Aardman Animations Ltd.
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How to Draw Fantasy Art - Steve Beaumont
materials and techniques
Artists use a wide variety of materials. Some choose to work in watercolours, some prefer oils or acrylics, while others decide to use inks, pencils or pastels. I suggest that you test all these mediums because only by trying them yourself will you find the right one for you.
To get started, you only really need a decent set of pencils and some high-quality drawing paper, but I will recommend some other basics that you may enjoy using. It’s best not to go for the cheapest materials as you often get what you pay for in terms of quality.
The items I have presented here are by no means the only brands available, but they are the ones that I use on a regular basis and, indeed, that I used to create the drawings contained within this book. All of the recommended materials are available to buy on the Internet, if you do not have an art store near where you live. Good sites in the UK, where I buy my materials, include http://www.cultpens.com/ and http://www.artifolk.co.uk.
In this section I will also look at how to use these materials, showing some useful techniques for the exercises in the book.
PENCILS, ERASERS, BLENDERS AND PAPER
These are the tools that form the foundation of all the fantasy art you are going to create, whether you are devising a drawing to be inked, coloured or to be rendered purely in graphite. Most of the exercises in this book were achieved using a basic pencil, an eraser and some good-quality paper.
PENCILS
There is a huge range of pencils available, and it is worth trying out a few to see which you prefer. These are a few of the most common ones:
Pentel Clutch pencil: This is available in a number of lead weights and thicknesses and it uses lead refills, meaning there is no need to sharpen it. This is great technical pen for fine detail.
Wolff’s Carbon: Provides the depth of tone of charcoal with the smooth finish of graphite.
Derwent Water-soluble Graphite: A pencil-shaped stick of pure water-soluble graphite, which can be used as a conventional pencil, broken into chunks to create broad sweeping strokes or for subtle washes.
Faber-Castell Pitt Graphite: This is a very high-quality pure graphite sketching stick that gives excellent tone. It is also available as a crayon stick.
Derwent Sketching Pencil: This reliable pencil is available in the usual range of H–HB–B leads.
Rexel Cumberland Derwent Graphic: A good-quality, low-priced pencil that gives pleasing results on most papers.
Staedtler: This is a very reliable budget-range pencil that gives great results.
From back to front: Pentel Clutch Pencil; Wolff’s Carbon; Derwent Water-soluble Graphite; Faber-Castell Pitt Graphite; Derwent Sketching Pencil; Rexel Cumberland Derwent Graphic and Staedtler.
I tend to use Staedtler HB pencils for most workings out and even some finished art. Derwent are another preferred choice.
PENCIL WEIGHTS
Here is a list of pencil weights and their qualities:
• H leads are hard and create a lighter mark on the paper. The range consists of H–9H, with 9H being the hardest.
• HB pencils are a good mid-range pencil, giving a wide variety of tone between the H and B leads.
• B leads are softer and leave a lot of lead on the paper, which is easily smudged. The range consists of B–9B, with 9B being the softest.
ERASERS
There are lots of erasers on the market, but only a select few good products. Don’t go for the cheapest as you will often find these are inferior. I tend to use Winsor & Newton putty rubbers (Figure 1), Staedtler plastic erasers (Figure 2), and a Derwent battery-operated eraser (Figure 3). The small eraser on the end of a Staedtler pencil is also useful for creating detailed highlights.
Figure 1
Figure 2
Figure 3
BLENDERS
A lot of pencil work involves blending pencil lead to give a smooth area of tone or to create clouds of smoke or other effects. To create these I use tissue paper wrapped around my index finger or a blending stump (Figure 4). Tissue paper can give a softer, gentler blend over a larger surface. Stumps are very good for smaller areas and detail work, although I have seen many artists use a stump for large areas too.
Figure 4
PAPER
Most of the drawings in this book were produced on 180gsm acid-free cartridge paper. Generally, choose a good-quality cartridge paper of a reasonably sturdy weight, as this will prevent your artwork from easily being creased and bent. There are many brands of paper on the market, including Winsor & Newton, Derwent, Daler, Canson and Snowdon, all of which produce good-quality cartridge paper as well as lower-quality student pads for practising on.
Bristol board is mainly used for inking as it has a very smooth surface that is ideal for extra-crisp line work. I have not used Bristol board for any of the exercises in this book. In most cases I have inked directly on to cartridge paper or, in the case of the projects that use marker pens, layout paper, although many artists prefer to use 160gsm photocopying paper as it produces good results when using marker pens.
Pencil techniques
Shading
Position the pencil so that the flat edge rubs across the paper.
This gives you a wide coverage and is useful when shading a large area.
Blending 1
Wrap some tissue paper or soft cloth around your finger and run it across a shaded area so that the pencil strokes begin to blend together.