Portofino and the Riviera
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About this ebook
"A little village stretching like an arch of the moon around a quiet basin. Never have I felt the way I did when I walked into that green indefiniteness, with such a sense of peace and fulfillment".
From Vie Errante by Guy de Maupassant
Portofino is a typical fisherman village on the Ligurian Riviera, which has become one of Italy's most famous tourist spots. However, it is best known worldwide for its tall colored houses situated in a semicircular formation around the small port and piazza.
Portofino and the Tigullio Gulf are symbols representing Italy throughout the world. The coast is a sequence of fashionable resorts with marinas, pastel-colored houses, first-rate sports facilities, and the Dolce Vita's seductive atmosphere.
But perhaps the most striking thing for the traveler is the beauty of the seascapes, with some of Italy's most famous views suspended between the intense blue of the sea and the green mountains.
Portofino's area boasts an exceptional natural heritage that includes traces of rural and nautical civilizations, beautiful religious architecture, and clusters of rural houses surrounded by tiny orchards and sections of land planted with grapevines and olive trees.
This is a guide to a visit to Portofino and the towns of nearby Riviera del Levante, from Sestri Levante to Genoa, including Sestri Levante, Santa Margherita Ligure, Camogli, San Fruttuoso and the villages of the Cinque Terre, with the trails between them.
There are extensive descriptions and photos of the attractions.
It contains many reviews for the best-recommended restaurants at the location described.
Enrico Massetti
Enrico Massetti nació en Milán, Italia, donde vivió durante más de 30 años, visitando innumerables destinos turísticos, desde las montañas de los Alpes hasta el mar de Sicilia. Ahora vive en Washington, Estados Unidos. Sin embargo, visita regularmente su ciudad natal y disfruta recorriendo todos los lugares de su país, especialmente aquellos a los que puede llegar en transporte público. Puede contactar con Enrico en enrico@italian-visits.com.
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Portofino and the Riviera - Enrico Massetti
Portofino
and the Riviera
Enrico Massetti
Portofino and the Riviera
Enrico Massetti
Text Copyright © Enrico Massetti 2015-2021
Images ©, or CC Creative Commons license, as specified for each image
Cover image © Adobe inc.
Published by Enrico Massetti
All Rights Reserved
2021 edition
ISBN 9798456975386
The Riviera di Levante
Map Description automatically generatedRiviera di Levante
This guide covers the Riviera di Levante, from the La Spezia Gulf to Genoa, including the Cinque Terre, Portofino, Camogli, and the other localities.
The Cinque Terre
A picture containing water, sky, mountain, outdoor Description automatically generatedVernazza - Luca Aless CC BY-SA 4.0
With a short train ride from La Spezia, you access the Cinque Terre with its natural park.
A Man-Made Landscape
Over the centuries, through constant collective work, man has managed to create this landscape, the only one of its kind in the world, safely kept inside a treasure chest between Punta Mesco and Punta Manara.
A little corner of Liguria where generations have worked to create this monument in landscape architecture is represented by the steep terraces sloping down to the sea.
Held up by over 7000 km of dry-stone walling, cleverly built without any cement, cultivated as vineyards that reach down to almost touching the lapping sea waves.
The Cinque Terre, recognized by Unesco as Mankind's World Heritage,
is today a National Park and Protected Marine Area to protect this great cultural heritage.
The rocky sea of the Cinque Terre
The inhabitants of these places had agricultural origins and lived on the hills. They came down to the coast once the Saracens had finished invading when the sea became safe and populated the villages at the rivers’ mouths along the shore.
The first historical documents on the Cinque Terre date back to the 11th-century. Monterosso and Vernazza sprang up first, while the other villages grew later under the military and political supremacy of the Republic of Genoa. In the 16th century, the inhabitants reinforced the old forts and built new defense towers to oppose the Turks’ attacks. From 1600, the Cinque Terre experienced a decline which reversed only in the 19th century, thanks to the construction of the Military Arsenal of La Spezia and the building of the railway line between Genoa and La Spezia. The railway allowed the inhabitants to escape their isolation and brought about the abandonment of traditional activities. Therefore, there was an increase in poverty, which pushed many to emigrate abroad. It lasted until the 1970s when the development of tourism brought back wealth.
The variation of house colors is because while fishers were doing their jobs just offshore, they wanted to be able to see their house quickly. This way, they could ensure their wives were still home doing the wifely duties. Most of the families in the five villages made money by catching the fish and selling them in the small port villages. Fish was also their primary source of food.
Cinque Terre's harsh and wild landscape and the coast reflect this nature. High cliffs are reaching down into the cobalt blue depths of the sea. Little shingle beaches are hidden at Riomaggiore and Vernazza or tiny ports
like Manarola for pulling up the boats when the sea is rough. Here, in summer, sunbathers mix with fishers.
Between Vernazza and Corniglia is the romantic beach of Guvano to reach on foot. A more extensive sandy beach with facilities can be found only at Monterosso al Mare.
The five villages in the Cinque Terre - Riomaggiore
A picture containing mountain, outdoor, nature, rock Description automatically generatedRiomaggiore - Klaus with K CC BY-SA 3.0
The name terra
(land) in medieval times meant village. From this origin comes the name Cinque Terre (five towns). The first village is Riomaggiore from the east - from La Spezia.
Riomaggiore, dating from the early 13th century, is known for its historic character and wine produced in its vineyards. Riomaggiore has a small beach and a pier framed by tower houses and one or two roads where people go and hang out, but you can find most of the life at night at the Bar Centrale.
Riomaggiore is the most southern village of the five Cinque Terre.
There is a tiny rocky beach that is clean and peaceful. It has a shower in the summer and another one closer to town by the boat landing.
Kayaks and Watersports
Riomaggiore has a diving center with scuba, snorkeling, and kayaks. Its office is down the stairs and under the tracks via San Giacomo, open daily (good weather only) from May to September from 9:00 am to 6:00 pm. Telephone +39-0187-920-011 www.5terrediving.it
Shopping in Riomaggiore
Galleria D’Arte Schiaccheart
Via S. Giacomo, 51, 19017 Riomaggiore +39 0187 760 056
The gallery showcases contemporary art. The gallery showcases new crafts while providing opportunities for emerging artists to showcase their work. You will see paintings, sculptures, ceramics, gifts, and jewelry in the gallery.
The gallery is open Mondays through Saturdays from 10:30 until 13:00 and then again from 14:30 until 19:00. They close on Sundays.
Nightlife in Riomaggiore
Bar Centrale Via Colombo 144, +39 0187 760 075. offers nightlife
any time of the day and has 30 minutes of free Wi-Fi with a drink. During the day is a shaded place to relax with other travelers. At night it offers the youngest set the liveliest action.
Enoteca Dau Cila Via San Giacomo, 65, +39 0187 760 032. It is a counterpoint to wild Bar Centrale, with its mellow jazz and Brazilian-lounge ambiance. It is down at the tiny harbor.
Where to eat in Riomaggiore
Restaurants in Riomaggiore
A Pie' de Ma' $$ - $$$ Via dell'Amore 55, +39 0187 921 037. One you want to be at for the sunset. The views were spectacular! Be sure to check your table to see if it is self-service, but no big deal to go to the counter for vino and berry.
Ripa del Sole $$ - $$$ Via de Gasperi 282, +39 0187 920143. Excellent establishment above the town. It's one of the few whose reasonably priced house wines are from the local Coop. Order any of the seafood dishes. Come early and sit near the window for a beautiful view over the bay.
Veciu Muin $$ - $$$ Via Colombo, 83, +39 0187 920 487. Bustling restaurant, but you will be able to get a table if you ask and wait. Excellent pasta and fresh tomato salad. Very