Eastern Shore Railroad
By Chris Dickon
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About this ebook
prominent coastal cities of those regions, New York and Norfolk, were less than 500 miles apart—except for one very large problem: at the end of a straight route down the Eastern Shore of Virginia lay the mouth of the Chesapeake Bay, with more than 20 miles of open water to the rail yards
of Norfolk. Thus Cassatt created the New York, Philadelphia, & Norfolk Railroad, which ran overland from Philadelphia to Cape Charles, Virginia; at Cape Charles, the railroad became waterborne on barges and passenger
ferries that traveled the rough waters at the mouth of the bay. Now known as the Eastern Shore Railroad, since 1884, the operation has followed a path through history that has been no less dramatic than the rise and fall—and curves in the rightof-way—of American railroading during that time.
Chris Dickon
Author Chris Dickon is a writer, historian, and Emmy-winning television producer. His work has been broadcast and published internationally, much of it derived from Virginia's rich past as the original source of American history. Chesapeake Bay Steamers brings together the photograph archives of the Library of Congress and 10 libraries, museums, and historical societies, large and small, from Norfolk to Baltimore.
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Eastern Shore Railroad - Chris Dickon
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INTRODUCTION
It was not until the 1960s that the sum total of all of the world’s bridge-building technology could accomplish what Alexander Cassatt had accomplished with the railroad and maritime engineering of his time in the late 19th century. Soon after the Chesapeake Bay Bridge Tunnel opened, spanning 17.6 miles across the mouth of the Chesapeake Bay, on April 15, 1964, it was deemed by the American Society of Civil Engineers as one of the Seven Engineering Wonders of the Modern World.
It took cars, trucks, and buses across 13 miles of trestles and four miles of tunnels from the tip of Virginia’s Eastern Shore to Virginia Beach and Norfolk on the southern shore of the bay, and it made obsolete much of what Cassatt had created 80 years earlier: a small railroad with a remarkable audacity.
Cassatt was a wealthy railroad magnate. He would later go on to head the Pennsylvania Railroad, build the railroad tubes beneath the Hudson River, and construct Manhattan’s classic Pennsylvania Station on Eighth Avenue. In 1882, he and fellow visionary William L. Scott looked at a map of America’s East Coast and saw the solution to a geographic puzzle: how do you create a direct rail link from the northern commercial hub of New York City down to the southern commercial hub of Norfolk? The two cities were less than 500 miles apart, but there were 18 miles of open water to be crossed at the journey’s end—not just any stretch of water, but roiling tidal water, the point at which the great Atlantic Ocean met the nation’s largest natural estuary.
The task could have gone undone, after all. Virginia’s Eastern Shore had been a geographic cul-de-sac since its first settling in the early 17th century. In 1879, an article in Harper’s New Monthly Magazine said of the Shore that it appears to be cut loose from the rest of the world, sleepily floating in the indolent sea of the past, incapable of crossing the gulf that separates it from modern life, and undesirous of joining in the race toward the wonderful future.
That future was one in which post–Civil War America was ready to develop its industry and agriculture, to trade between once-antagonistic states, and to export its bounty to the rest of the world. The population and commerce on America’s mid-Atlantic coast was developing exponentially, but because the portions of Delaware, Maryland, and Virginia that formed the Delmarva Peninsula were surrounded on three sides by water, the growth of population and commerce followed a bypassing arc from Baltimore, inland to Richmond, and down the western shore of the Chesapeake Bay to Newport News and Norfolk.
Cassatt saw it differently, and in 1882, he got on a horse (he was also a noted horseman), laid out a route for a railroad, and determined the location for a port from which the railroad would continue by barge and passenger steamers to the port of Norfolk. The site he chose was described by marine historian John L. Lochead as a cornfield beside a brackish pond,
but Cassatt figured it would be the most practical tidal harbor with closest access to the deep waters of the bay, and so it was there that the town of Cape Charles was built from scratch and put in business.
Cape Charles proved to be not just another small American town. As Cassatt intended, it became the point of intersection between land and sea; industry, agriculture, and the aquaculture of the surrounding waters; and the North and South of postwar America. In the years since 1884, the railroad and the town that gave it access to the sea have ridden all of the ups and downs, booms and busts, and transportation trends of American history up to the present day. The era of the passenger steamers across the bay has long since ended, motor vehicle traffic that parallels the railroad has increased, the town of Cape Charles is always redefining itself, and at the beginning of the 21st century, the railroad still traveled down the Shore and across the bay. Like many small railroads, it had a very interesting past but could never be quite sure of what its future would hold.
In 1884, the New York, Philadelphia, and Norfolk Railroad (NYP&N) opened for business with nine railroad stations operating on Virginia’s Eastern Shore. By 1900, the railroad’s success led to the opening of 11 more, including this one at Cheriton. Shown here in 1988, it was still standing, though long-since deserted at the end of the era of full and frequent passenger trains. (Eastern Shore Railway Museum.)
One
AN AUDACIOUS IDEA
This 19th-century farm on Onancock Creek might have inspired the writer of an article in Harper’s New Monthly Magazine of May 1879. While Plymouth Rock was all still a virgin forest, Englishmen were growing tobacco, dredging oysters and shooting wild fowl in this region,
said the article of Accomack and Northampton Counties. It went on to lament the region’s water-bound isolation from the rest of