Advanced Auction and Contract Bridge Tactics for the Keen Player
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Advanced Auction and Contract Bridge Tactics for the Keen Player - H. L. Thornely
CHAPTER I
PLAY THE GAME
AUCTION Bridge has entirely superseded ordinary or straight
Bridge. In this country, it probably claims one hundred adherents for every ten who indulged in the older game. America possesses a vast army of about two million players, and her writers claim that fresh recruits are still rolling up.
This popularity is accounted for by the fact that, although skilful calling and play receive their merited reward, the average player, or even the beginner, believes that he can at least hold his own, if the luck
is with him, because Auction Bridge is a game of Aces and Kings.
There is an extraordinary divergence of opinion as to the proportionate advantage that is gained by the expert player. It is rated as high as 50, or as low as 10 per cent. My own view is, that if one only of the players ranks as first-class, then probably 10 per cent., or thereabouts, meets the case. There is no method by which an indifferent partner can be shown how to win a game (except at the post-mortem, when it is unfortunately too late!) or prevented from giving one away.
The 50 per cent, rate obtains when first-class players are opposed by mediocrities—or dribs,
as the Americans politely call them. The two experts know just how far to go in pushing up their adversaries’ contracts, and then defeat them by perfect defence. They pull off games when the position looks practically hopeless. It is a case of a disciplined force, equipped with modern weapons (as represented by the recognised signals and conventional leads), opposed to irregulars.
The beginner must realise that until he has mastered the scientific side of the game, he is hopelessly handicapping himself, and his partner as well.
There is, again, a conflict of opinion as to the relative values of sound bidding and expert play. It is claimed that from 60 to 70 per cent, of skill should be credited to the declaration, and from 40 to 30 per cent, to the actual play of the cards.
I think this is over-stating the value of the call, but assuming the figures are correct, then, if you are a beginner, they will afford some comfort. There is no reason at all why you should not gain the reputation of being a sound caller, if you will only read, mark, learn, and follow the rules and principles that are accepted by all first-class players. Occasionally a perplexing situation arises, but the exercise of ordinary common sense will generally solve your difficulties.
The actual play of the cards is quite another matter. That quality known as card-sense
comes naturally to some, but is never acquired by others. The first-class player is, in fact, born and not made,
but, fortunately for some of us, they are few and far between.
Here, again, the accepted rules and conventions come to your assistance. If you build up your game on their sure foundation, then concentration, observation, and enthusiasm will result in making you a reliable player, one who is welcomed as a partner, and respected as an opponent.
Make up your mind, therefore, that the recognised opening leads and conventions have got to be learnt by heart. You can pick up some of them at the card-table, but not all. Moreover, your partner is justified in assuming that you already possess this elementary knowledge. Read all the articles you come across in newspapers and periodicals. Many of them run competitions, and offer substantial prizes. Solve the problems, and compare your answers with the published awards. It is excellent practice, and will also help you to correct your faults as regards bidding, leading, and playing the hands.
Never refuse an offer to play with those who are better than you are, and when you get the opportunity, be a really attentive Dummy. A vast amount of information can be obtained by observing the methods of a first-class exponent. Vary the process by attempting to place all the unseen cards. It affords an excellent opportunity to make your first essay in card-reading,
because you have nothing else to think about. If you are waiting to cut-in,
then do not bury yourself behind a newspaper, but watch those players who are worthy of attention. It is an inexpensive form of tuition.
Pay no attention to those who, sooner or later, are sure to tell you that Book-Bridge
is all nonsense, and that brains, and a few good cards, are all that are wanted. Such ignorant advice invariably emanates from mediocre players, who perpetrate the same elementary blunders year in and year out, and do not realise that they are playing Bumble Puppy instead of Auction Bridge. Believe me, all reliable players have gone through this spade-work, and are always ready to learn something fresh. The longer you play, the more you will realise the wonderful possibilities of the game.
Finally, when you have arrived at a state of perfection, or think that you have (note the distinction), then be a tolerant and good-tempered partner. It is the hall-mark of the first-class player.
An indifferent performer does not expect to be bullied when he has been good-natured enough to make up a table, and apart from any question of ethics, it is sheer folly to depress and annoy him. Every player has to make a start, and you will obtain far better results from the beginner by commending, and encouraging his efforts to make good.
It is well to remember that Auction Bridge is, after all, a game, and not the only serious business in life.
CHAPTER II
THE DEALER’S BID
THE rules that govern the opening declaration are now so clearly defined that the beginner is relieved from a good deal of anxiety. You are expected to give your partner information, even if your hand contains a minimum of strength, as represented by certain winners. Expert opinion as to what constitutes a sound call has, in fact, undergone a complete change.
We used to be told not to make a suit bid from less than five cards headed by Ace and King, or A.Q.J, with at least one outside Ace. A player to-day who, as Dealer, waits for a hand like this, will generally finish on the losing side.
The experts now realise the importance of showing minimum strength at the earliest opportunity, and some of them advocate an opening bid from Ace, King, and two other small trumps, with nothing else of value in the hand. Having given this call a thorough testing, I am convinced of its value, both as a game-winning and game-saving asset. I strongly advise the Dealer, if he holds two quick tricks, or in other words two certain winners, to show them by making a call. On the contrary, if these two quick tricks are non-existent, then say No Bid,
although the hand may look strong enough to show a suit.
I admit, however, that other writers, both in this country and America, will not allow that the call is legitimate in a major suit, unless the four trumps are represented by A.K.Q.J, or A.K.Q.x. With A.K.J.x, they ask for K.J, or Q.J, in an outside suit. If only A.K.xx is held, then they require either A, or K.Q, outside.
This additional strength is undoubtedly most valuable, and I certainly prefer to make the call when it is in evidence. I can only judge by actual results, and for the reasons given hereafter I advocate that One Spade,
for instance, should be called from A.K.xx and plain cards outside, and No Bid
from K.J.10.xxx. This may come as a shock to some players, but I am certain the theory is sound.
It does not necessarily follow that the two tricks must be held in the trump suit. One Spade,
for instance, can, and should, be called from ♠ A.J.10.x, ♥ xxx, ♦ A.xx, ♣ xxx. It is again a sound call if the Diamond Ace is substituted by King and Queen. On the other hand, always say No Bid
as Dealer, with ♠ A.Q.xxx, ♥ xxx, ♦ xxx, ♣ xx, or ♠ K.Q.xxxx, ♥ K.x, ♦ xx, ♣ xxx.
A call is, nevertheless, legitimate without A, or K.Q, if the trumps number five, headed by two honours, and Two Quick Tricks,
i.e. certain winners are held in the outside suits—viz., ♠ Q.J.xxx; ♥ xx; ♦ K.Q.x; ♣ A.xx; or ♠ K.10.xxx; ♥ K.Q; ♦ xxx; ♣ A.xx.