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    Climbing K2 - A Historical Mountaineering Article on Expeditions to the 2nd Highest Peak in the World
    Climbing K2 - A Historical Mountaineering Article on Expeditions to the 2nd Highest Peak in the World
    Climbing K2 - A Historical Mountaineering Article on Expeditions to the 2nd Highest Peak in the World
    Ebook53 pages1 hour

    Climbing K2 - A Historical Mountaineering Article on Expeditions to the 2nd Highest Peak in the World

    By G. O. Dyhrenfurth

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    About this ebook

    Many of the earliest books, particularly those dating back to the 1900s and before, are now extremely scarce and increasingly expensive. We are republishing these classic works in affordable, high quality, modern editions, using the original text and artwork.
    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherRead Books Ltd.
    Release dateApr 26, 2013
    ISBN9781473383050
    Climbing K2 - A Historical Mountaineering Article on Expeditions to the 2nd Highest Peak in the World

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      Book preview

      Climbing K2 - A Historical Mountaineering Article on Expeditions to the 2nd Highest Peak in the World - G. O. Dyhrenfurth

      GEOLOGY

      K² OR CHOGORI

      (a) NOMENCLATURE

      THE name K² is simply an identification sign of the Survey of India, signifying Karakorum Peak No 2¹; when this symbol was allotted it was not yet known that this was the second highest mountain in the world. It is therefore a pure coincidence that its ranking in the list of the world’s peaks and its identification number happen to coincide. Unfortunately there is no universally authoritative local name, and all sorts of names have been suggested, the following among them.

      ‘Mount Waugh’, in honour of Sir Anthony Waugh, the Surveyor General: this design to match ‘Mount Everest’ was fortunately dropped.

      ‘Mount Montgomerie’, after Colonel Montgomerie, who in 1856 discovered and plotted the peak from Haramukh and immediately recognised its great stature: this name too has vanished into oblivion.

      ‘Mount Godwin Austen’, after Colonel H. H. Godwin Austen, whose expedition five years later carried out the first physical survey of the Baltoro Region and undertook the first exploratory mapping of the district. To him we owe the first description of the Baltoro Glacier (Bib. 45) and its incomparable mountain tract. He certainly had a stronger claim to the title than had Sir George Everest in the case of Chomo Lungma, but—except in the single case of Everest—the Indian Survey has set its face resolutely against the naming of peaks after people. Consequently the name Godwin Austen gradually fell into disuse and is now mostly to be found in out-of-date atlases.

      The name ‘Dapsang’ or ‘Mount Dapsang’ has not died out completely and cannot be rejected out of hand; but there is only one ‘Depsang’-plateau and it lies about a hundred miles to the south-east of K².

      ‘Mount Akbar’ means The Great Mountain, but the appellation is quite unknown locally; nor is the Kashmiri name ‘Lamba Pahar’, which carries the same meaning, in common use. But in Baltistan one does occasionally hear the name ‘Chogori’, also meaning Great Mountain.

      Balti, a Tibetan dialect, has the soundest claim to provide a name, seeing that K² rises in Baltistan; nor is there any objection to the meaning or the sound of Chogori (Chogo=Big; Ri=Mountain), pronounced with the accent on the final ‘i’. It would have been a splendid name, had it commanded general acceptance; but everyone has gradually become so accustomed to the English designation and its phonetic pronunciation, that even the porters, who have heard the word frequently used by their Sahibs, and the people of Askole (the nearest village) mostly call the mountain ‘Ke-Tu’—and it has thus come about that what was originally only a symbol has finally been adopted even in the Tibetan language as a geographical name. Far from offending as prosaic and unromantic, its very brevity has come to appeal as original, trenchant and rugged. The pedant wedded to correct nomenclature will properly cling to Chogori: and perhaps the best solution is to give the second highest peak in the world the double name of ‘K² or Chogori’.

      (b) ALTITUDE

      K² has been measured from nine stations lying between 15,435 and 17,530 feet. The position is therefore much more favourable than in the case of Everest or Dhaulagiri, which had to be plotted from far lower-lying stations: refraction therefore has far less effect on the calculations. There is relatively little

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