Madhya Pradesh: Unhurried, Unspoilt, Undiscovered
By Probir Sen
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About this ebook
Unlike other states, the mention of Madhya Pradesh does not evoke a single image; this is because the immensity and astonishing variety of its attractions do not permit its confinement to a stereotype.
This is not a ‘guide book’ - it is an attempt to introduce readers to the essence and flavours of destinations in Madhya Pradesh, which include majestic monuments, the finest forests and wildlife sanctuaries of the country and unspoilt retreats.
It is hoped that readers would be tempted not only to visit the areas, but explore and find out more about the people and this unique state, which so richly deserves its epithet of being the ‘Heart of India,’ in more ways than one.
Probir Sen
Probir Sen studied history at St. Stephen’s College, Delhi and Kings College, Cambridge. He joined the Indian Administrative Service in 1967 in the Madhya Pradesh cadre.
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Madhya Pradesh - Probir Sen
Unhurried Unspoilt Undiscovered
Unhurried Unspoilt Undiscovered
Probir Sen
wisdom Madhya Pradesh Tourism
tree
First published in 2009 by
Wisdom Tree
4779/23
Ansari Road
Darya Ganj
New Delhi - 110002
Phone: 91 - 11 - 23247966/ 67/ 68
wisdomtreebooks@gmail.com
The project has been supported by Madhya Pradesh State Tourism Development Corporation Limited.
Printed in India.
Text © Probir Sen
Photographs © Madhya Pradesh Tourism; Madhyam (p. 18, 32, 34, 66, 72, 75, 79, 80); Bhalu Mondhe (p. 64-65); Shobit Arya (p. 33); Hari Mahidhar/Dinodia Images (p. 82).
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, or transmitted in any form or by any means, without the prior permission of the author and the publisher.
ISBN 978-81-8328-151-5
Design: tiffinbox
Front cover: Spectacular reflections from the past — Jahaz Mahal, Mandu.
Back cover: The verdant glory of Pachmarhi.
CONTENTS
Preface ------------------- 7
Gwalior – Shivpuri – Orchha ---------------------- 11
Bhopal – Bhojpur – Bhimbetka – Sanchi –
Udaigiri – Udaypur – Pachmarhi ---------------------- 27
Jabalpur – Kanha ---------------------- 41
Khajuraho – Bandhavgarh ---------------------- 51
Indore – Mandu – Omkareshwar –
Maheshwar – Ujjain ---------------------- 65 Hotel Listings ---------------------- 90
PREFACE
Why, it may well be asked, should there be yet
another volume on places of tourist attractions in
Madhya Pradesh when, in fact a number of excellent
guide books on these places exist, published by the
Archaeological Survey of India and the M.P. State
Tourism Development Corporation.
The only explanation I can offer for this attempt is
that it is not a guide book. These essays are
intended to provide an introduction to the places
covered, something that will hopefully persuade
tourists to visit, stay, and imbibe more about these
places by reading and interacting with the people
living there.
Unlike many other states in India Madhya Pradesh
does not evoke one single image. This is partly
because it does not possess typical attractions such
as the mountains or the sea, and partly because its
immensity and the astonishing variety of what it
does have to offer do not permit its confinement to
a stereotype.
LEFT
Early morning view of Shri Omkar Mandhata
Temple, Omkareshwar, on the banks of River
Narmada.
Preface
-------------------------------------------
Geographically, Madhya Pradesh is located in the with all parts of India, it was fortunately just south
heart of India. It is also true that India’s ancient of the region that suffered constant invasions.
and eternal spirit resides here. Spending time in This rare combination of wealth and absence
the state is, therefore, not just seeing places, but of depredations has left the state with over one
experiencing the essence of India — the pristine thousand monuments and many more antiquities,
magic of its forests, the restrained magnificence in an almost perfect state of preservation, ranging
of its monuments, the exuberance of crowds in in time from the prehistoric to the modern.
festivals, and the great peace the solitude and
silence bring. Not being fortunate enough to have been born or
brought up in Madhya Pradesh, I nevertheless have
Madhya Pradesh is the second largest state in the had the excitement of having lived and worked in
country, sprawling over 3,08,000 square kilometres. the state for over a decade. I was, and remain, totally
It has a very large proportion of India’s forests and captivated by its attractions; the state for me being
hence numerous natural parks and sanctuaries, an enormous retreat from the tumult and turmoil
including Kanha and Bandhavgarh, which are of living in the national capital, never failing
amongst the finest in the country. Apart from to provide solace, inspiration and invigoration.
forests, there is also the vast plateau, the hill ranges Madhya Pradesh remains for me unhurried,
of the Vindhyas and Satpuras and the great rivers unspoilt, and to a great extent, undiscovered. It
flowing across it: the Narmada, Tapti, Chambal, is hoped that these essays would serve as an hors
Sone, Betwa and Ken. Its climate is by and large d’oeuvre to what I am sure would be a continuous
moderate, and its people warm and gentle, with a and rewarding experience for any visitor to the state.
tolerance that has enabled all the major faiths to
exist and flourish — Hinduism, Islam, Jainism and I have, for factual material, drawn from the fine
Buddhism. Vast tracts of the state are also enriched guidebooks of the Archaeological Survey of
by the unique and precious culture of its tribes. India and the M.P. State Tourism Development
Corporation Eicher guide on Madhya Pradesh,
Close to Nature, sometimes surrounded by it, and something which I would like to gratefully
often competing with it in magnificence, are the acknowledge.
monuments of Madhya Pradesh. Being located
in the centre of India, all trade routes across the I would also like to express my gratitude to Shri
country, from north to south, had to pass through B. M. Pande the distinguished archaeologist, who
Madhya Pradesh. The resultant commerce, together was with the Archaeological Survey of India, for
with the wealth of its soil and the rivers, brought having spared the time to go through my text; to
great prosperity to the area. While it had contact Ashok and Rahul Noronha and Dr Faiqa Saulat
8 Madhya Pradesh: Unhurried, Unspoilt, Undiscovered
Preface
-----------------------------------------
gwalior
shivpuri orchha
khajuraho
udaypur bandhavgarh
udaigiri
sanchi
ujjain bhopal bhojpur jabalpur
indore bhimbetka
pachmarhi kanha
mandu
maheshwar omkareshwar
Map not to scale.
For representational purposes only.
Khan, eminent and knowledgeable citizens of Bhopal who pointed out factual errors
after going through my pieces; to my colleagues Shri Sudesh Gupta and Shri S.C.
Kumar who assisted me in the task of preparing the manuscript, without which it
would have never emerged; and finally, and most importantly, to Shri Shobit Arya and
his colleagues of Wisdom Tree publication, and Shri Ashwini Lohani, Managing
Director of the M.P. State Tourism Development Corporation, who have given me the
opportunity to write this book.
I would like to end by stating that it was for me a great pleasure to mentally revisit
these places that I cherish in Madhya Pradesh, even though time did not permit me
the joy of going to them physically; however this is something I will continue to do
for the rest of my life.