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Peru
Peru
Peru
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Peru

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Peru is home to more archaeological sites than any other country in South America. However, with mangroves, cloud forest, oases in the desert and glacial lakes, it is also a country of incredible natural diversity. Footprint’s 9th edition Peru Handbook will guide you from spectacular and spiritual fiestas to the awe-inspiring sights of the Sacred Valley.

• Great coverage of the top activities and sights in the region, including trekking, ancient ruins and surfing

• Loaded with information and suggestions on how to get off the beaten track, from discovering the incredible wildlife to enigmatic Inca sites

• Includes comprehensive information on everything from transport, practicalities to history, culture & landscape

• Plus all the usual accommodation, eating and drinking listings for every budget

• Full-colour planning section to inspire you and help you find the best experiences

From uncovering the best gourmet spots in Lima to the sapphire shores of Lake Titicaca, Footprint’s fully updated 9th edition will help you navigate this incredible destination.

LanguageEnglish
Release dateJun 12, 2015
ISBN9781910120729
Peru
Author

Robert Kunstaetter

Born and raised in Ecuador (Quito and Riobamba), Daisy Isacovici's pet peeve is being mistaken for a gringa. Robert Kunstaetter hails from Montreal, where Daisy attended university. Soon after they met in 1979, he suggested travelling in South America for 'a year or so', and they have yet to turn back. Over the years and miles, Robert and Daisy became regular correspondents for Footprint, contributing to the South American Handbook and other Latin American titles. Based back in Ecuador since 1993, they are authors of Footprint's Ecuador & Galapagos Handbook. They also travel frequently to Peru and Bolivia. After all these years, Robert and Daisy still have difficulty distinguishing between work and play.

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    Peru - Robert Kunstaetter

    Sarfaty

    Ever since Hiram Bingham first described Machu Picchu as a wonderland, the fabled Inca city has become one of the most recognized images in the world, so much so that it virtually represents Peru, acting as a magnet for every visitor. But it’s not even half the story. Peru has more ancient archaeological sites than any other country in South America, and more are being found all the time. Many are still off the beaten path and offer the more intrepid visitor the thrill of genuine exploration. Trekking to such sites, be it with an organized group or on your own, is one of the finest experiences the country has to offer.

    There is also much more to Peru than old stones. Of the 117 recognized life zones on the planet, Peru has 84, from mangroves to cloudforest, mist-fuelled oases in the desert to glacial lakes.

    It also has 28 out of 32 climate types. Amazingly, 60% of the country is jungle, even though less than 6% of its population lives there. Despite ongoing development, much of the

    Peruvian Amazon remains intact, and this vast green carpet is home to some of the greatest diversity of plants and wildlife on the planet. Not a year goes by without the recording of plants and animals previously unknown to science.

    Peru is also a country of fiestas, and it would be an unusual visit to Peru that did not encounter at least one. Masks and costumes tell centuries-old stories and reveal an intense spirituality which enriches daily life. Christian saints are carried through the streets as if they were the Inca emperors’ sacred remains.

    Pachamama – Mother Earth – is offered a drop of every drink, and animal spirits and old combats come alive in masquerades.

    Peru is a wonderland, indeed, with the uncanny knack of springing new surprises at every turn.

    Robert and Daisy Kunstaetter

    Ben Box

    Best of

    Peru

    top things to do and see

    Lima

    Peru’s vibrant, sprawling and grimy capital is a world unto itself and the obligatory point of arrival for most visitors. The city's fine museums, colonial buildings, vibrant nightlife and world famous dining will entertain, excite and inform. see here.

    Cordillera Blanca

    A region of jewelled lakes and sparkling white mountain peaks, the Cordillera Blanca attracts mountaineers, hikers, cyclists and rafters in their thousands. Here stand some of the highest mountains in South America, with 30 snow-crested peaks over 6000 m. see here.

    Chavín de Huantar

    This archaeological site belonged to one of the earliest and most influential cultures in pre-Inca Peru, and it has some extraordinary carvings and stonework. In the lee of the Cordillera Blanca, it is also one of the most spectacularly situated sites in the country. see here.

    Huaca de la Luna

    The remains of the once-mighty Moche Empire are located near Trujillo on the north coast. They have revealed fabulous multicoloured friezes of gods from the first millennium AD and even the mummy of a tattooed woman. see here.

    North coast beaches

    Peru's northern seaboard enjoys a rain-free climate all year, and boasts the country's finest beaches for bathing and surfing. When not riding the breakers, you can visit nature reserves or party into the small hours of the star-lit night. see here.

    Chachapoyas

    Home to the mysterious ‘Cloud People’, Kuélap is an enigmatic site located in the northern highland Chachapoyas region. The area is also home to mysterious cities and inaccessible cliff-side burial sites, as well as the outstanding Leymebamba museum and the spectacular 771-m Gocta waterfall. see here.

    Nazca Lines

    The enigmatic Nazca Lines, whose origin and function continue to puzzle scientists, are etched into miles of barren southern desert. Their sheer scale and wonder can only be appreciated from the air. see here.

    Arequipa

    Elegant Arequipa is known as the ‘White City'. Spanish colonial churches, mansions and the Plaza de Armas all shine with pearly volcanic stonework. In contrast, the city’s most famous jewel, the Santa Catalina Convent, is painted in bright colours, a gorgeous little city within a city. see here.

    Colca and Cotahuasi canyons

    Come face to face with the majestic Andean condor, rising on morning thermals from the depths of the Colca or Cotahuasi canyons, two of the deepest in the world. Both offer world-class kayaking for those with a taste for profound adventure. see here.

    Lake Titicaca

    The sapphire-blue waters of Lake Titicaca are bathed in a unique high-altitude light that no photograph can convey. Inhabiting its islands and the surrounding puna are Aymara, Quechua and Uros communities, many of whom remain faithful to their traditional cultures. see here.

    A Cuzco

    Cuzco, navel of the ancient Inca world, is Peru’s tourism central, and for good reason. Colonial churches, convents and extensive pre-Columbian ruins are interspersed with countless hotels, bars and restaurants that cater to the over one million tourists who visit every year from all over the world. see here.

    B Q'eswachaka

    Every year in June, over 400 Quechua families from four communities join forces for four days to reconstruct the Inca rope bridge at Q'eswachaka using ancestral tools and materials. Witnessing this impressive feat of ancient civil and social engineering is an unforgettable experience. see here.

    Machu Picchu

    No amount of hype can dilute the tremendous feeling of awe on first arriving at Machu Picchu. A complete Inca city, for centuries it was buried in jungle until Hiram Bingham stumbled upon it in 1911. see here.

    Tambopata

    The steamy southern jungles are home to a huge diversity of habitats and bird species. Large mammals, including tapirs, giant anteaters, otters and primates, are fairly easy to spot due to lack of hunting pressure. see here.

    Ukukus at Q'Olloriti

    Route

    planner

    putting it all together

    The variety that Peru offers the visitor is enormous. The problem, if you’re on a tight schedule, is how to fit it all in. Above all, don’t attempt to do too much. Take it easy and give yourself time to appreciate one of the most beautiful and fascinating countries on earth. Peru is larger than most visitors realize and has a great many different regions. The capital, Lima, is a world unto itself. On either side of this oversized metropolis, the north and south of the country are each divided into coast, highlands and jungle. Every region has its own special atmosphere and its own long list of attractions. From among them you can select the elements that suit you best and, depending on transport links, you can tailor your own itinerary.

    For the following routes, all travel is by road unless indicated otherwise. However, if you’re short of time, flying will give you greater flexibility.

    One to two weeks

    a whistle-stop tour of the country's highlights

    Southern highlights This circuit covers some of the most popular destinations in the country. Spend a couple of days in Lima, visiting the city’s fascinating museums to gain an overview of the country’s exceptionally rich history and culture. If your budget allows, you can also make the most of the capital’s great gastronomy and vibrant nightlife. Then fly to Cuzco for a taste of its Inca and colonial heritage. On a short visit, you can catch the train from Cuzco directly to Machu Picchu, but if you prefer to hike the Inca Trail or any of the worthwhile alternatives, you need to consider additional time in the region. From Cuzco, travel to Puno to visit the shores and islands of beautiful Titicaca, the highest navigable lake in the world. Continue to the white city of Arequipa to take-in its fine colonial architecture and more great dining opportunities. You can head out from the city to visit the awe-inspiring Colca Canyon, before flying back to Lima.

    Plaza de Armas, Lima

    Northern highlights Alternatively, you might prefer to avoid the tourist honeypot of Cuzco and explore a different part of the country. Start, once again, in Lima, before travelling to Huaraz in the Cordillera Blanca. Only seven hours by road from the capital, it’s one of the world’s premier high-altitude recreation areas, with unparalleled ease of access. A few days hiking or climbing could easily be combined with the coastal archaeological sites and fine museums near the colonial city of Trujillo and further north around Chiclayo and Lambayeque. From here, continue to the Chachapoyas region, which also contains a bewildering number of pre-Hispanic archaeological sites and the spectacular Gocta waterfall. For the final stage of your trip, either travel down the beautiful road that descends from the mountains to the subtropical city of Tarapoto, or take an even more spectacular ride to Cajamarca, surrounded by thermal baths, archaeological and historical sites and lovely countryside. From both Tarapoto and Cajamarca, you can catch a flight back to Lima.

    Gotca waterfall

    Virgen del Carmen parade, Pisac Opposite page: Amazon river house, Iquitos

    Three to four weeks

    there's so much more to see

    Adding an extra two weeks to your trip would allow you to combine the two itineraries above into a more comprehensive tour. Alternatively, try one of the following routes:

    Extended southern route A trip to the central Andes from Lima will take you off the beaten path, calling at Huancayo, Huancavelica and Ayacucho in a week to 10 days. Obviously the more time you allow, the more variety you’ll see, especially in the Mantaro Valley near Huancayo, and the places of historical interest around Ayacucho. These are also two of the best places to experience festivals and buy handicrafts. From Ayacucho, you can travel to Cuzco via Andahuaylas and Abancay. As an alternative to the highlands, head south from Lima on the Pan-American Highway for a week or so on the southern coast, taking in the Paracas Peninsula, with its marine birdlife, and the incredible Nazca Lines. A paved road runs from Nazca, via Abancay, to Cuzco.

    On this extended itinerary you should have time to see much more of Cuzco and its surroundings, especially the Sacred Valley of the Incas. Instead of the trek to Machu Picchu, you could try the more demanding and rewarding hike to the Inca city of Choquequirao. From Cuzco, make a trip to the southern jungle, either by flying or travelling overland to Puerto Maldonado. Manu National Park and the Tambopata National Reserve provide wonderful opportunities for nature enthusiasts to enjoy the highest levels of biodiversity in the world. Fly back to Lima, either from Puerto Maldonado or Cuzco.

    Extended northern route Travel overland from Lima to Huaraz for trekking in the Cordilleras Blanca or Huayhuash. Both the Huayhuash and Alpamayo circuits are excellent long-distance high-altitude treks in this area. Head to Trujillo to visit the archaeological sites but break up a surfeit of sightseeing at the popular seaside resort of Huanchaco, before continuing to Chiclayo and Chachapoyas as above. Then descend from the mountains to Tarapoto and Yurimaguas, and travel by riverboat to Iquitos. The Amazonian city is the jumping-off point for the northern jungle, where there is a good network of jungle lodges. From Iquitos, catch a flight back to Lima.

    Best

    trekking destinations

    Huayhuash Circuit

    The Cordillera Huayhuash was made famous by Joe Simpson's mountaineering classic, Touching the Void. The Huayhuash trekking circuit from Chiquián to Cojitambo has eight passes over 4700 m and requires plenty of stamina. You will be rewarded with views of massive ice faces rising out of the puna, azure lakes, deep gorges and high pastures. see here.

    Cordillera Blanca

    Cordillera Blanca

    North of Lima, the Cordillera Blanca is the trekking heart of Peru. The most popular multi-day trek in this area takes three to five days from the Santa Cruz Valley to Llanganuco or vice versa. Less travelled and more demanding, but well worth the additional effort, is the Alpamayo Circuit, a seven- to 12-day trek around one of the most perfect peaks in the world. Both of these trekking routes are offered by many tour operators or they can be undertaken independently by those with sufficient experience. see here and see here.

    Huayhuash Circuit

    Ausangate Circuit

    Visible from Cuzco, the strikingly beautiful summit of Ausangate stands at 6384 m. The four- to six-day circuit of the mountain includes spectacular vistas of the heavily glaciated Cordillera Vilcanota, two passes over 5000 m, hot springs and beautiful turquoise lakes. The circuit rarely drops below 4000 m, so trekkers need to be fit and well acclimatized before attempting it. see here.

    Ausangate Circuit

    Choquequirao

    This Inca city is as spectacularly sited as Machu Picchu but far less visited. The four- to five- day hike starts at the village of Cachora (accessed from Cuzco) at 2875 m, descends into the seemingly bottomless Apurímac canyon at 1500 m and climbs back up to Choquequirao at 3000 m, so you can figure out just how much climbing up and down is involved. Do this trek now, before the cable car arrives. see here.

    Choquequirao

    Classic Inca Trail

    The classic Inca Trail

    Peru’s most famous trek is a four- or five-day organized hike through magnificent scenery, varied ecology and Inca ruins to Machu Picchu. For all its popularity, this is no easy stroll: it starts at 2600 m, climbs up to 4200 m, descends 1000 m on an Inca stairway, and, depending on the time of year, includes freezing nights and/or deep mud. see here.

    Capaq Ñan – the Great Inca Road

    The world-famous trekking routes to Machu Picchu follow but a tiny fraction of the 25,000-km Inca road network. Vestiges of the Capaq Ñan can be found the length of the Andes and in Peru there are many well-preserved sections which make exceptional off-the-beaten-path trekking routes. The ancient road and stairway to Pariacaca in the Central Highlands and the 200-km stretch from Huari to Huánuco Viejo are but two examples. see here and see here.

    Capaq Ñan near Huarautambo

    When

    to go

    …and when not to

    Peru’s high season in the highlands is from May to September, when the weather is most stable for hiking and climbing. At this time the days are generally clear and sunny, though nights can be very cold at high altitude. During the wettest months in the highlands, November to April, some roads become impassable and hiking trails can be very muddy. April and May, at the end of the highland rainy season, is a beautiful time to see the Peruvian Andes, but the rain may linger, so be prepared.

    On the coast, high season is September, and Christmas to February. The summer months are from December to April, but from approximately May to October much of this area is covered with garúa, a blanket of cloud and mist. At this time only the northern beaches near Tumbes are warm and pleasant enough for swimming.

    The best time to visit the jungle is during the dry season, from April to October. During the wet season (November to April), it is oppressively hot (40°C and above) and while it only rains for a few hours at a time, which is not enough to spoil your trip, it is enough to make some roads virtually impassable, making travel more difficult.

    The high season for foreign tourism is from June to September (but year-round in Cuzco and Machu Picchu) while domestic tourism peaks on certain holidays, Christmas, Semana Santa and Fiestas Patrias. Prices rise and accommodation and bus tickets are harder to come by. If you know when you will be travelling, buy your tickets in advance.

    Festivals

    Every bit as important as knowing where to go and what the weather will be like is Peru’s festival calendar. At any given time of the year there’ll be a festival somewhere in the country, drawing people from miles around. Check the website of iPerú For more information on the historic roots behind Peru’s festivals, see here.

    Jan Marinera festival, Trujillo. An opportunity to see Marinera dancers.

    1st week of Feb Fiesta of the Virgen de la Candelaria, takes place along the shores of Lake Titicaca near the Bolivian border and features dance groups from around the region.

    Feb/Mar/Apr Carnaval is held over the weekend before Ash Wed, and Semana Santa (Holy Week), ends on Easter Sun. Carnaval is celebrated in most of the Andes, and Semana Santa throughout Peru. Accommodation and transport is heavily booked and prices rise considerably. Book tickets and make hotel bookings early.

    1 May Fiesta de la Cruz is held over much of the central and southern highlands and on the coast.

    Jun Andinismo, Huaraz, a week-long festival held at the beginning of the month. In Cuzco, the entire month is one huge fiesta, culminating in Inti Raymi, on 24th, one of Peru’s prime tourist attractions. This date is also celebrated for San Juan in the jungle lowlands.

    29 Jun Many places on the coast celebrate San Pedro y San Pablo.

    30 Aug Santa Rosa de Lima, in Lima.

    Sep Spring festival, in Trujillo. An opportunity to see Marinera dancers.

    Oct Señor de los Milagros, Lima, held on several dates throughout the month.

    1 Nov Todos los Santos (All Saints).

    8 Dec Festividad de la Inmaculada Concepción.

    What

    to do

    adventure awaits

    Birdwatching

    Peru is the number one country in the world for birdwatching. Its varied geography and topography, and its wildernesses of so many different life zones have endowed it with the greatest biodiversity and variety of birds on Earth. Some 18.5% of all the world’s bird species and 45% of all neotropical birds occur in Peru. Birds breed all year round, but there’s a definite peak in breeding activity – and consequently birdsong – just before the rains come in Oct, and this makes it rather easier to locate many birds between Sep and Christmas. See www.peru.travel or www.perubirdingroutes.com for further details.

    Details of the following key sites are given in the main travelling text: Paracas National Reserve; Loma de Lachay; Huascarán Biosphere Reserve; Chiclayo and the route via Abra Patricia to Moyobamba; Iquitos; Manu Biosphere Reserve; and Tambopata National Reserve. A great 3- to 4-week combination trip would be to spend 16 days in Manu, then 2-3 days in the highlands at Abra Málaga and 2-3 days in the Huascarán Biosphere Reserve. A trip into the Marañón Valley and Abra Patricia (Chiclayo-Moyobamba) can be substituted for Manu; this allows access to some of the most sought-after endemics, but would produce far fewer species. More information on the birds of Peru is given in the Flora and fauna section on see here.

    Climbing

    The Cordillera Blanca is an ice climber’s paradise. It takes just 1 or 2 days to reach the snowline on most mountains in the most intensive grouping of glaciated peaks in South America. The statistics are impressive: more than 50 summits between 5000 m and 6000 m (with over 20 surpassing 6000 m); and 663 glaciers. It is not unusual for climbers to reach 3 or more 6000-m summits, climbed Alpine-style, during a 3-week trip. The degree of difficulty ranges from Pisco (5752 m), an excellent acclimatizer or novice’s mountain (still demanding), to Copa (6173 m), of moderate difficulty, and the tremendous challenges of Alpamayo (5947 m), Artesonraju (6025 m), Quitaraju (6036 m) and Ranrapalca (6162 m). Huaraz is the main climbing centre in the Cordillera Blanca and has a growing infrastructure. It is also home to the Peruvian Mountain Guide Association (Asociación de Guías de Montaña del Perú) or AGMP, Casa de Guías, Plaza Ginebra 28-g, T043-421811.

    The Huayhuash is a little more remote; Chiquián, northwest of the range, and Cajatambo to the south have few facilities for climbers. It is possible to contact guides, arrieros, porters and cooks in Chiquián, although it is best to enquire in Huaraz first. The Huayhuash has some of the most spectacular ice walls in Peru. The Jirishancas and Yerupajas (Grande and Chico) are the most popular and demanding.

    The cordilleras Vilcabamba and Vilcanota have the enticing peaks of Salkantay (6271 m) and Ausangate (6398 m), but Cuzco is not as developed for climbing as other locations. This is one of the genuine attractions of Peruvian andinismo – there is always another mountain more remote to feed the appetite. Huagurunchu (5730 m), for instance, in the central Andes, is barely known, and Coropuna, Peru’s third highest at 6425 m, is hardly ever climbed.

    Rock climbing is great in the quebradas, where the rock is most solid (frost-shattered higher up). This is becoming more popular, particularly in the Quebrada de Llaca, near Huaraz, and for beginners at Monterrey. Other rock climbs in the Huaraz area are the boulders of Huanchac, the ’Sphinx’, or Torre de Parón and routes in the Rurec Valley.

    Cultural tourism

    This covers more esoteric pursuits, such as archaeology and mystical tourism. Several of the tour operators listed in this guide offer customized packages for special-interest groups. Under the umbrella heading turismo vivencial are a variety of interesting community-based tourism projects in archaeology, agro-tourism, education, llama trekking, nature tourism and traditional medicine. Private operators and some language schools also offer the opportunity to get involved in community projects.

    The Ministerio de Cultura (www.mcultura.gob.pe) should be contacted by archaeologists for permits and information. The Museo Nacional de Antropología y Arqueología in Pueblo Libre, is the centre for archaeological investigation, and the Museo de la Nación holds interesting exhibitions.

    Diving

    Diving off the Paracas Peninsula is rewarding, as is the warmer tropical ocean with larger fish off Tumbes. It is also practised in the Bahía de Pucusana. The best season for visibility is Mar to Nov because the rivers from the mountains don’t deposit silt into the sea at this time. Operators are listed in the What to do sections throughout the book; the website www.perudivers.com is a good place to start. If you plan to dive make sure that you are fit to do so. The British Sub-Aqua Club (BSAC), Telford’s Quay, South Pier Rd, Ellesmere Port, Cheshire CH65 4FL, UK, T01513-506200, www.bsac.com, can put you in touch with doctors who will carry out medical examinations. Check that any dive companies you use are reputable and have the appropriate certification from the Professional Association of Diving Instructors (PADI), www.padi.com, which has offices and centres worldwide.

    Kayaking

    Peru offers outstanding whitewater kayaking for all standards of paddlers from novice to expert. Some 1st descents remain untested owing to logistical difficulties, though they are slowly being ticked off by a dedicated crew of local and internationally renowned kayakers. For the holiday paddler, it’s probably best to join up with a rafting company (listed in the What to do sections throughout the book), who will gladly carry all your gear (plus any non-paddling companions) and provide you with superb food while you enjoy the river from an unladen kayak. There is a small selection of kayaks available in Peru for hire from about US$25-35 a day. For complete novices, some companies offer 2- to 3-day kayak courses on the Urubamba and Apurímac that can be booked locally. Kayaking is also offered on Lake Titicaca. For expedition paddlers, bringing your own kayak is the best option, though it is becoming increasingly expensive to fly with your boats around Peru. A knowledge of Spanish is indispensable.

    Mountain biking

    With its amazing diversity of trails, tracks and rough roads, Peru is surely one of the last great mountain-bike destinations yet to be fully discovered. Whether you are interested in a 2-day downhill blast from the Andes to the Amazon jungle or an extended off-road journey, then Peru has some of the world’s best biking opportunities. The problem is finding the routes, as trail maps are virtually non-existent and the few main roads are often congested with traffic and far from fun to travel along. A few specialist agencies run by dedicated mountain bikers offer single tracks and dirt roads that criss-cross the Andes, putting together exciting routes to suit every type of cyclist. Useful contacts include Amazonas Explorer in Cuzco (www.amazonas-explorer.com); Mountain Bike Adventures in Huaraz (www.chakinaniperu.com) and Perú Bike in Lima (www.perubike.com). When signing up for a mountain-bike trip, remember that you are in the Andes so if you are worried about your fitness and the altitude, make sure you do a predominantly downhill trip.

    Some companies offer imported high-quality, full-suspension mountain bikes with hydraulic disc brakes; others are less flash. Whatever the original quality of the bike, check that it has been properly and regularly maintained and that the guide gives you a full explanation of how to ride it properly. Poorly maintained bikes can be dangerous, and you may have very little come back after an accident, especially if booking and paying from overseas. Trips should have a support vehicle for the duration, not just to drop you off and meet you at the end. Guides should carry a first aid kit and a puncture repair kit at the very least (a comprehensive tool kit is preferable); they should also be knowledgeable about bike mechanics. Bikes do go wrong, punctures are frequent and people do fall off, so it is essential that your guide provides this minimum cover. Also try to check that the company is operating legally in Peru; a website booking facility is not enough.

    Parapenting and hang-gliding

    Vuelo libre is its name in Peru. Flying from the coastal cliffs is easy and the thermals are good. The Callejón de Huaylas is more risky owing to variable thermals, crosswinds and a lack of good landing sites, but there is a strong allure to flying at 6000 m in front of the glaciers of Huascarán. The area with the greatest potential is the Sacred Valley of Cuzco, which has excellent launch sites, thermals and reasonable landing sites. The season in the sierra is May to Oct, with the best months being Aug and Sep. Some flights in Peru have exceeded 6500 m.

    While the attraction of parapenting or hang-gliding in the sierras is very great, with mountains on all sides and steep valleys below, most pilots are to be found in Lima. Arranging a tandem jump or a course is easy: just go to Parque del Amor in Miraflores in the afternoon and see who is hanging around waiting for the thermals and the breeze. Jumping off the cliff gives a completely different perspective on the city as you fly above the Pacific breakers and the traffic on the coastal boulevard, with a pelican’s view of the blocks of flats and offices. There are other launch sites on the coast south of Lima, in the Callejón de Huaylas, Arequipa, the Central Highlands and in the Cuzco region.

    Operators in Lima include Aeroxtreme (www.aeroxtreme.com), Andean Trail Perú (www.andeantrailperu.com), Fly Adventure (www.flyadventure.net), Infinity (www.infinitycross.com) and Peru Fly (www.perufly.com). Make sure your chosen operator has the backing of the Asociación Peruana de Vuelo Libre (APVL), http://apvl.pe/. Also see What to do on see here.

    Rafting

    Peru is rapidly becoming one of the world’s premier destinations for whitewater rafting. Several of its rivers are rated in the world’s top 10 and a rafting trip, be it for one or 10 days, is now high on any adventurer’s ’must-do’ list of activities while travelling in Peru. It is not just the adrenalin rush of big rapids that attract, it is the whole experience of accessing areas beyond the reach of motor vehicles that few if any have ever visited. This may be tackling sheer-sided, mile-deep canyons, travelling silently through pristine rainforest, or canoeing across the stark altiplano, high in the Andes.

    If you are looking to join a rafting expedition of some length, then it is definitely worth signing up before you set foot in Peru. Some long expeditions have fewer than 2 or 3 scheduled departures a year and the companies that offer them only accept bookings well in advance as they are logistically extremely difficult to organize. For the popular day trips and expeditions on the Apurímac there are regular departures (the latter in the dry season only). If you can spare a couple of days to wait for a departure then it is fine to book in Cuzco. It also gives you the chance to talk to the company that will be operating your tour. There are day-trip departures all year and frequent multi-day departures in the high season. Note that the difficulty of the sections changes between the dry and rainy season; some become extremely difficult or impassable in the rainy season (Dec-Mar). The dry season is Apr/May to Sep (but can be as late as Nov).

    In 2015 a regulatory body for rafting operators was being set up to ensure that companies are able to run professional trips, that they employ international-standard safety techniques, that guides are adequately qualified and legally allowed to work in Peru and that equipment is regularly checked. It is hoped that, once fully in place, this body will weed out the poor practices, equipment and guides that have undermined this fun and exciting sport. Until then the rule of thumb is if companies are not legally registered in Peru, then don’t book with them. For more information on staying safe when rafting, see box, here.

    Surfing

    Peru is a top, internationally renowned surfing destination. Its main draws are the variety of waves and the year-round action. Point breaks, left and right reef breaks and waves of up to 6 m can all be found from Sep to Feb in the north and from Mar to Dec in the south, though May is often ideal south of Lima.

    Ocean swells are affected by 2 currents: the warm El Niño in the north and the cold Humboldt current in the south arriving from Antarctica. Pimentel, near Chiclayo, is the dividing point between these 2 effects, but a wet suit is normally required anywhere south of Piura.

    The biggest wave is at Pico Alto (sometimes 6 m in May), south of Lima, and the largest break is 800 m at Chicama, near Trujillo. There are more than 30 top surfing beaches. North of Lima these include: Chicama, Pacasmayo, Punta Tur, Punta Nonura, El Golf, Cabo Blanco, Los Organos and Máncora (all left break). South of Lima the best beaches are: Punta Hermosa, Punta Rocas (right break) and Pico Alto (right break, best in May), the pick of the bunch. Huaico/Santa Rosa (left break), Cabo Negro (left break), Sangallán (right break); El Olón and Piedras Negras (left breaks) and Caleta La Cruz (right break), are all near Ilo.

    International competitions are held at Pico Alto (Balin Open in May) and Punta Rocas (during the summer months). For further information, contact Eco-Innovation Tours (www.eco-innovationtours.com); Federación Deportiva Nacional de Tabla (Fenta; www.surfingperu.com.pe); Olas Peru Surf Travel (www.olasperusurftravel.com and www.olasperu.com) and Peru Surf Guides (www.perusurfguides.com). A surfing magazine, Tablista, is published bimonthly. Also look out for the free X3Mag and consult Footprint’s Surfing the World.

    Trekking

    Peru has some of the finest trekking opportunities in all of South America. The best known routes around the nevados are the Llanganuco to Santa Cruz loop; the Ausangate circuit; and a strenuous trek around the Huayhuash. Other good areas include the Colca Canyon, the Chincheros area and the upper Cañete Valley.

    The other type of trekking for which Peru is justifiably renowned is walking among ruins and, above all, for the Inca Trail. However, there are very many other walks of this type in a country rich in archaeological heritage. Indeed, it is difficult to go hiking in Peru without stumbling on something of archaeological interest. Some of the best are: the valley of the Río Atuen near Leymebamba and the entire Chachapoyas region; the Tantamayo ruins above the Marañón; the Cotahuasi Canyon; and beyond Machu Picchu to Vilcabamba and Choquequirao. People tend to think of the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu as the only stretch of Inca roadway that can be walked. It is, however, just a tiny fraction of the vast Inca road network; see box, Stairway to heaven, see here.

    Most walking is on clear trails, well-trodden by the campesinos who populate most parts of the Peruvian Andes. If you camp on their land, ask permission first and, of course, do not leave any litter. Tents, sleeping bags, mats and stoves can easily be hired in Huaraz and Cuzco, but check carefully for quality. If you have your own trusted gear, it is best to bring it with you.

    Some trekking and climbing companies show very little concern for their clients regarding acute mountain sickness, AMS, which is a considerable risk in the Andes. Many commercial treks are unfortunately scheduled faster than the recommended 300 m per day, even the very popular Santa Cruz trek near Huaraz. You should be wary of agencies wanting to sell you trips with fast ascents. Of course, if you trek independently, then you are free to go at your own pace.

    For advice and information, contact the Asociación de Guías de Montaña del Perú (see Climbing, above). Also look out for Trekking Peru (www.trekkingperu.org), a specialist guidebook scheduled for publication in 2016. See the colour section for more detailed descriptions of some of the treks listed above.

    Shopping tips

    Almost everyone who visits Peru will end up buying a souvenir of some sort from the vast array of arts and crafts (artesanía) on offer. The best and cheapest place to shop for souvenirs, and pretty much anything else in Peru, is in the street markets that can be found absolutely everywhere. The country also has its share of shiny, modern shopping centres, especially in the capital, but remember that the high overheads are reflected in the prices.

    What to buy and where to find it

    It is possible to find all kinds of handicraft in Lima. The prices are often the same as in the highlands, and the quality is good. Recommended buys are: silver and gold handicrafts; hand-spun and hand-woven textiles; manufactured textiles in indigenous designs; llama and alpaca wool products such as ponchos, rugs, hats, blankets, slippers, coats and sweaters; arpilleras (appliqué pictures of Peruvian life), which are made with great skill and originality by women in the shanty towns; and fine leather products that are mostly handmade. Another good buy is clothing made from high-quality Pima cotton, grown in Peru.

    The mate burilado, or engraved gourd found in every tourist shop, is cheap and one of the most genuine expressions of folk art in Peru. These are cheaper if bought in the villages of Cochas Grande or Cochas Chico near Huancayo in the Central Highlands. The Mantaro Valley is generally renowned for its folk culture, including all manner of artesanía.

    Alpaca clothing, such as sweaters, hats and gloves, is cheaper in the sierra, especially in Puno. Another good source is Arequipa, where alpaca cloth for suits, coats, etc (mixed with 40% sheep’s wool) can be bought cheaply from factories. Lima is more expensive, but may be the best bet in terms of quality. Note that if you want to make sure you’re buying genuine alpaca, check that it is odourless when wet or dry; wet llama, in contrast, stinks.

    One of the best places in Peru to look for artesanía is Ayacucho in the Central Highlands. Here you’ll find excellent woven textiles, as well as the beautifully intricate retablos, or Saint Mark’s boxes. Cuzco is one of the main weaving centres and a good place to shop for textiles, as well as excellent woodcarvings. Also recommended for textiles is Cajamarca. The island of Taquile on Lake Titicaca is a good place to buy ch’uspas (bags for coca leaves), chumpis (belts) and chullos (knitted hats with traditional ear flaps). For a more detailed look at Peruvian arts and crafts, see here. For tips on bargaining, see here.

    Where

    to stay

    from luxury hotels to wild camping and everything in between

    Accommodation is plentiful throughout the price ranges and finding a hotel room to suit your budget should not present any problems, especially in the main tourist areas and larger towns and cities. The exception to this is during the Christmas and Easter holiday periods, during Carnival, Cuzco in June and for the Independence celebrations at the end of July, when all hotels are crowded and prices rise. It’s advisable to book in advance at these times and also during school holidays and local festivals, see here. All accommodation registered with iPeru is listed on their website, www.peru.travel.

    Hotels, hostales, pensiones and hospedajes

    There are many top-class hotels in Lima and Cuzco and in the main tourist centres, such as Arequipa, Iquitos and Trujillo. In less-visited places the choice of better-class hotels is more limited. Accommodation is more expensive in Lima and in jungle towns such as Iquitos and Puerto Maldonado. It also tends to be pricier in the north compared with the south, especially on the coast. If you want a room with air conditioning, expect to pay around 30% extra.

    All hotels in the upper price brackets charge 18% sales tax (IGV) and 10% service on top of prices (foreigners should not have to pay the sales tax on hotel rooms; neither tax is included in prices given in the accommodation listings, unless specified). The more expensive hotels charge in dollars.

    Price codes

    Where to stay

    $$$$ over US$150

    $$$ US$66-150

    $$ US$30-65

    $ under US$30

    Price of a double room in high season, including taxes.

    Restaurants

    $$$ over US$12

    $$ US$7-12

    $ US$6 and under

    Prices for a two-course meal for one person, excluding drinks or service charge.

    Places that offer accommodation should (but may not) have a plaque outside bearing the letters H (Hotel), Hs (Hostal), HR (Hotel Residencial) or P (Pensión) according to type. A hotel has 51 rooms or more, a hostal 50 or fewer. The categories do not describe quality or facilities, although, generally speaking, a pensión or hospedaje will be cheaper than a hotel or hostal. Most mid-range hotels have their own restaurants serving lunch and dinner, as well as breakfast. Many budget places serve continental breakfast. Most places are friendly and helpful, irrespective of the price, particularly smaller pensiones and hospedajes, which are often family-run and will treat you as another member of the family.

    The cheapest (and often the nastiest) hotels can be found around bus and train stations. If you’re just passing through and need a bed for the night, then they may be acceptable. The better-value accommodation is generally found on and around the main plaza (though not always).

    Youth hostels

    The office of the Youth Hostel Association of Peru, Asociación Peruana de Albergues Turísticos Juveniles and Administradora Peruana Hostelling International Av Casimiro Ulloa 328, Miraflores, Lima T01-446 5488, www.hostellingperu.com.pe, has information about youth hostels.

    Camping

    Camping on trekking routes and in wilderness areas is delightful, but there can be problems with robbery when camping near towns or villages, so ask permission to camp in a backyard or chacra (farmland). Most Peruvians are used to campers, but in some remote places people may never have seen a tent. Be casual about it; do not unpack all your gear, rather leave it inside your tent (especially at night), and never leave a tent unattended. Camping gas in screw-top containers is available in the main cities. Those with stoves designed for white-gas should use bencina, available from hardware stores (ferreterías) in larger towns.

    Food

    & drink

    seafood, guinea pig and high-end gastronomy

    Food

    Coastal cuisine

    The best coastal dishes are seafood-based, the most popular being ceviche. This is a dish of raw white fish marinated in lemon juice, onion and hot peppers. Traditionally, ceviche is served with corn-on-the-cob, cancha (toasted corn), yucca and sweet potatoes. Tiradito is ceviche without onions made with plaice. Another mouth-watering fish dish is escabeche – fish with onions, hot green pepper, red peppers, prawns (langostinos), cumin, hard-boiled eggs, olives, and sprinkled with cheese (it can also be made with chicken). For fish on its own, don’t miss the excellent corvina, or white sea bass. You should also try chupe de camarones, which is a shrimp stew made with varying ingredients. Other fish dishes include parihuela, a popular bouillabaisse which includes yuyo de mar, a tangy seaweed, and aguadito, a thick rice and fish soup said to have rejuvenating powers.

    A favourite northern coastal dish is seco de cabrito, roasted kid (baby goat) served with beans and rice, or seco de cordero which uses lamb instead. Also good is aji de gallina, a rich and spicy creamed chicken, and duck is excellent. Humitas are small, stuffed dumplings made with maize.

    The criollo cooking of the coast has a strong tradition and can be found throughout the country. A dish almost guaranteed to appear on every restaurant menu is lomo saltado, a kind of stir-fried beef with onions, vinegar, ginger, chilli, tomatoes and fried potatoes, served with rice. Other popular examples are cau cau, made with tripe, potatoes, peppers and parsley and served with rice, and anticuchos, which are shish kebabs of beef heart with garlic, peppers, cumin seeds and vinegar. Rocoto relleno is a very spicy hot pepper stuffed with beef and vegetables, often served with pastel de papas, potato slices baked with eggs and cheese, to cool the fire. Palta rellena is avocado filled with chicken or Russian salad. Estofado de carne is a stew that often contains wine and carne en adobo is a cut and seasoned steak.

    ON THE ROAD

    Inca Kola

    The high international profile currently enjoyed by upscale Peruvian gastronomy has tended to overshadow some of the country’s less sophisticated tastes. Among the latter shines a fluorescent yellow, syrupy sweet soft drink, so brightly coloured that you might think it glows in the dark.

    Invented by a British immigrant named Isaac Lindley, who arrived in Callao in 1910, it is said to be made from hierba luisa (lemon verbena), although sceptics would say it more closely resembles boiled lollipops. Be that as it may, the beverage has captured the national imagination and palate since its launch in 1935. The Lindley family business thrived for many decades, thanks to the Peruvian population’s impressively sweet tooth. Even Coca Cola is reported to have added extra sugar to its formula in Peru in order to try to keep up with Inca Kola. Peru’s ’golden kola’ has been part-owned by its arch international rival since 1999, but it continues to be a hugely popular drink and an important icon of Peruvian national identity.

    Two good dishes that use potatoes are causa and carapulca. Causa is made from mashed potatoes with lemon juice, layered with a filling of crabmeat, tuna or sardine, or, on other occasions, a vegetable salad which might include peppers, egg, olives, cheese, corn and sweet potato; it is served with marinated onions.

    Highland cuisine

    The staples of highland cooking, corn and potatoes, come in a variety of shapes, sizes and colours. A popular potato dish is papa a la huancaína, which is topped with a spicy sauce made with Leche Glória (the ubiquitous tinned evaporated milk) and cheese. The most commonly eaten corn dishes are choclo con queso, corn on the cob with cheese, and tamales, boiled corn dumplings filled with meat and wrapped in a banana leaf. Most typical of highland food is pachamanca, a combination of meats (beef, lamb, pork, chicken), potatoes, sweet potatoes, corn, beans, cheese and corn humitas, all slow-cooked in the ground, dating back to Inca times.

    Meat dishes are many and varied. Ollucos con charqui is a kind of potato with dried meat, sancochado is meat and all kinds of vegetables stewed together and seasoned with ground garlic, and lomo a la huancaína is beef with egg and cheese sauce. Others include fritos, fried pork, usually eaten in the morning; chicharrones, deep fried chunks of pork ribs and chicken or fish, and lechón, baked pork. A delicacy in the highlands is cuy, guinea pig. Very filling and good value are the many soups and broths (caldos) on offer, such as caldo de carnero, caldo verde or caldo de cabeza, which includes a sheep’s head cooked with corn and tripe. Also yacu-chupe, a green soup made from potato, with cheese, garlic, coriander, parsley, peppers, eggs, onions and mint, and sopa a la criolla containing thin noodles, beef heart, egg, vegetables and pleasantly spiced.

    Jungle cuisine

    The main ingredient in jungle cuisine is fish, especially the succulent, dolphinsized paiche, which comes with the delicious palmito, or palm-hearts, and yucca and fried bananas. Tocacho is green banana, cooked and ground to a chunky paste, usually served with pork (cecina) and sausage (chorizo). Juanes are a jungle version of tamales, stuffed with chicken and rice.

    Peruvian fruits are of good quality: they include bananas, the citrus fruits, pineapples, dates, avocados (paltas), eggfruit (lúcuma), custard apple (chirimoya), which can be as big as your head, quince, papaya, mango, guava, the passion-fruit (maracuyá) and the soursop (guanábana).

    Drink

    The most famous local drink is pisco, a clear brandy which, with egg whites and lime juice, makes the famous pisco sour. The most renowned brands come from the Ica valley. The best wines are also from Ica: Tabernero, Tacama (especially its Selección Especial and Terroix labels), Ocucaje and Santiago Queirolo (in particular its Intipalka label). Beer is of the lager type, the best known brands being Cusqueña and Arequipeña (lager) and Trujillo Malta (porter). In Lima only Cristal and Pilsen are readily available. Other brands, including some Brazilian beers, are coming onto the market, but there is little difference between any of them, Seek out the microbreweries which are springing up in Huaraz, for example. Chicha de jora is a maize beer, usually home-made and not easy to come by, refreshing but strong: chicha morada is a soft drink made with purple maize. The local rival to Coca Cola (but now owned by that US multinational) is the fluorescent yellow Inca Kola, see box here. Peruvian coffee is good, but the best is exported and many cafés only serve coffee in liquid form or Nescafé. There are many different kinds of herbal tea: the commonest are manzanilla (camomile), menta (mint) and anís. Mate de coca is frequently served in the highlands to stave off the discomforts of altitude sickness.

    Eating out

    A normal lunch or dinner costs US$5-8, but can go up to about US$80 in a first-class restaurant, with drinks and wine. (See Lima Restaurants, see here, and Gastronomic Lima, see here, for information on high-end dining.) Middle- and high-class restaurants may add 10% service, but not include the 18% sales tax in the bill (which foreigners do have to pay); this is not shown on the price list or menu, so check in advance. Lower-class restaurants charge only tax, while cheap, local restaurants charge no taxes. Lunch (almuerzo) is the main meal and most restaurants serve one or two set lunch menus, called menú ejecutivo or menú económico (US$2-3). The menú has the advantage of being served almost immediately and it is usually cheap. The menú ejecutivo costs US$2.50-4 or more for a three-course meal with a drink and it offers greater choice and more interesting dishes. A menú may also be available for the evening meal (cena) but is usually less inspired. Some Chinese restaurants (chifas) serve good food at reasonable prices. Many cheaper restaurants have blaring TVs, a must for local patrons but not conducive to relaxed dining.

    Lima

    Peru’s much-maligned capital deserves a second look

    It is a well-established cliché to call Lima a city of contradictions. In this sprawling metropolis you’ll encounter grinding poverty and conspicuous wealth in abundance. The hardships of the poor are all too evident in the rubbish-strewn shanty towns you pass on the traffic-clogged drive from the airport.

    Lima’s image as a place to avoid or quickly pass through is enhanced by the thick grey blanket of chilly fog that descends in May and hangs around for the next seven months. Wait until the blanket is pulled aside in November to reveal bright blue skies, and, suddenly, Limeños descend on the city’s beaches for a raucous mix of sun, sea, salsa and ceviche.

    Lima can entertain, excite and inform. It boasts some of the finest historical monuments and museums in the country, and its colonial centre is one of Peru’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Strenuous efforts are now being made to refurbish the historical districts. Most visitors choose to stay in Miraflores, San Isidro or Barranco, where plush hotels and shiny shopping centres rub shoulders with pre-Inca pyramids. Here, restaurants serve the city’s famed cuisine, and bars keep the party going into the small hours. Scratch beneath that coating of grime and traffic fumes and you’ll find that Lima is one of the most vibrant and hospitable cities anywhere.

    Best for

    Cuisine ■ Museums ■ Nightlife

    Central Lima

    Inner suburbs

    Southern suburbs

    Callao

    Listings

    Footprint

    picks

    Plaza de Armas, see here

    Explore this square at the heart of colonial Lima.

    San Francisco, see here

    Visit the catacombs and admire the lavish interior of this baroque church.

    Museo de la Nación, see here

    Learn about the art and history of the aboriginal peoples of Peru at this unmissable museum.

    Museo Larco de Lima, see here

    Gain an excellent overview of Peru’s cultures through their pottery.

    Parque del Amor and Parque Maria Reiche, see here

    Escape the big city buzz for a stroll in these urban parks.

    Barranco, see here

    Discover Lima’s contemporary art scene and then party the night away.

    Pachacámac, see here

    Re-imagine the archaeological site as it was in its heyday, as the largest city and ceremonial centre on the coast of Peru.

    Essential Lima

    Finding your feet

    All international flights land at Jorge Chávez airport in Callao, 16 km northwest of the centre; take a taxi. If arriving by bus, most of the terminals are just south of the historic centre on Avenida Carlos Zavala. This is not a safe area so you should take a taxi to and from there. Miraflores is 15 km south of the centre. It has a good mix of places to stay, parks, great ocean views, bookstores, restaurants and cinemas. Neighbouring San Isidro is the poshest district, while Barranco, a little further out, is a centre for nightlife. Callao, Peru’s major port, merges with Lima but is a city in its own right, with over one million inhabitants.

    Getting around

    Downtown Lima can be explored on foot by day; at night a radio taxi is safest. Buses, combis and colectivos provide an extensive public transport system but are not entirely safe. Termini are posted above the windscreens, with the route written on the side; all vehicles stop when flagged down. There is also the Metropolitano rapid transit bus system and a limited metro service, neither of which is particularly useful for visitors.

    In most cases, taxis are the best way to travel between different districts. Bear in mind that Lima’s roads are horribly congested at all times of day, so allow plenty of time to get from A to B.

    Addresses

    Several blocks, each with its own name, make up a jirón (often abbreviated to Jr). Street corner signs bear the names of both the jirón and the block. New and old names of streets are used interchangeably: remember that Colmena is also Nicolás de Piérola; Wilson is Inca Garcilaso de la Vega, and Carabaya is also Augusto N Wiese.

    When to go

    Lima two distinct seasons. The winter is May to November, when a garúa (mist) hangs over the city, making everything grey, damp and cold. The sun breaks through around November and temperatures rise. The temperature in the coastal suburbs is lower than the centre because of the sea’s influence.

    Time required

    A few days are enough to see the highlights; a full week will allow more in-depth exploration.

    Sights

    in Lima

    Central Lima

    the traditional heart of the city retains its colonial core

    An increasing number of buildings in the centre are being restored and the whole area is being given a new lease of life as the architectural beauty and importance of the Cercado (as it is known) is recognized. Most of the tourist attractions are in this area. Some museums are only open 0900-1300 from January to March, and some are closed entirely in January.

    Plaza de Armas (Plaza Mayor) and around

    One block south of the Río Rímac lies the Plaza de Armas, or Plaza Mayor, which has been declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. Running along two sides are arcades with shops: Portal de Escribanos and Portal de Botoneros. In the centre of the plaza is a bronze fountain dating from 1650.

    The Palacio de Gobierno Mon-Fri 0830-1300, 1400-1730, on the north side of the Plaza, stands on the site of the original palace built by Pizarro. The changing of the guard is at 1145-1200. The palace can be visited on a free 45-minute tour (Spanish and English); register two days in advance at the palace’s tourist office (ask guard for directions).

    The Cathedral T01-427 9647, Mon-Fri 0900-1700, Sat 1000-1300; entry to cathedral US$3.65, ticket also including Museo Arzobispado US$11, was reduced to rubble in the earthquake of 1746. The reconstruction, on the lines of the original, was completed 1755. Note the splendidly carved stalls (mid-17th century), the silver-covered altars surrounded by fine woodwork, mosaic-covered walls bearing the coats of arms of Lima and Pizarro and an allegory of Pizarro’s commanders, the ’Thirteen Men of Isla del Gallo’. The remains of Francisco Pizarro, found in the crypt, lie in a small chapel, the first on the right of the entrance. The cathedral’s Museo de Arte Religioso has sacred paintings, portraits, altar pieces and other items, as well as a café and toilets. Next to the cathedral is the Archbishop’s Palace and museum T01-427 5790, Mon-Sat 0900-1700, rebuilt in 1924, with a superb wooden balcony. Permanent and temporary exhibitions are open to the public.

    Just behind the Municipalidad de Lima is Pasaje Ribera el Viejo, which has been restored and is now a pleasant place, with several good cafés with outdoor seating. Nearby is the Casa Solariega de Aliaga Unión 224, T01-427 7736, Mon-Fri 0930-1300, 1430-1745, US$11, knock on the door and wait to see if anyone will let you in, or contact in advance for tour operators who offer guided visits. It is still occupied by the Aliaga family and is open to the public and for functions. The house contains what is said to be the oldest ceiling in Lima and is furnished entirely in the colonial style. The Casa de la Gastronomía Nacional Peruana Conde de Superunda 170, T01-426 7264, www.limacultura.pe, US$1, behind the Correo Central, has an extensive permanent collection of objects and displays on Peruvian food, historic and regional. It also has temporary exhibitions on the same theme. All signs are in Spanish.

    BACKGROUND

    Lima

    Lima, capital of Peru, is built on both sides of the Río Rímac, at the foot of Cerro San Cristóbal. It was originally named La Ciudad de Los Reyes, in honour of the Magi, at its founding by conquistador Francisco Pizarro in 1535. From then until the independence of the South American republics in the early 19th century, it was the chief city of Spanish South America. The name Lima, a corruption of the Quechua name Rimac (speaker), was not adopted until the end of the 16th century.

    The Universidad de San Marcos was founded in 1551 and a printing press in 1595, both among the earliest of their kind in South America. Lima’s first theatre opened in 1563, and the Inquisition was introduced in 1569 (it was not abolished until 1820). For some time the Viceroyalty of Peru embraced Colombia, Ecuador, Bolivia, Chile and Argentina. There were few cities in the Old World that could rival Lima’s power, wealth and luxury, which was at its height during the 17th and early 18th centuries. The city’s wealth attracted many freebooters and in 1670 a protecting wall 11 km long was built round it, then destroyed in 1869. The earthquake of 1746 destroyed all but 20 houses, killed 4000 inhabitants and ended the city’s pre-eminence. It was only comparatively recently, with the coming of industry, that Lima began to change into what it is today.

    Over the years the city has changed out of all recognition. The metropolitan area contains 8.6 million people, which equates to half the urban population of Peru and nearly one-third of the country’s total population. Two-thirds of Peru’s industries are located in the capital. Many of the hotels and larger businesses have relocated to the fashionable suburbs of Miraflores and San Isidro, thus moving the commercial heart of the city away from the Plaza de Armas. Modern Lima is seriously affected by smog for much of the year and is surrounded by poor grimy neighbourhoods. Many of these former squatters’ camps of shacks in the desert have evolved into bustling working-class districts, home to millions of inhabitants and much of the city’s commercial activity. They are generally not safe to visit on your own, but going accompanied by a local friend or guide can provide an eye-opening insight into the reality of life in Lima. See also see here.

    East of Plaza de Armas

    The first two blocks of Calle Ancash, from Calle Carabaya (on the east side of the Palacio de Gobierno) to San Francisco church, have been designated the ’tourist

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