Hiking the Endless Mountains: Exploring the Wilderness of Northeastern Pennsylvania

Kaitlyn.

Introduction

This book’s second edition is not simply a regurgitation of the first; it is different in many respects. It was also my goal to greatly improve on the first edition.

In the first edition, I strove to include all trails that I knew at the time, even those that were rather short or insignificant. In this edition, I focus on longer loops with scenic value that are worth hiking, particularly for those who are driving a couple hours to get to the Endless Mountains. Some of these longer loops incorporate the shorter trails I described in the first edition.

Second, most bushwhacks and many potentially confusing trail junctures have GPS coordinates. This obviously aids in navigation and makes tackling bushwhacks a little less intimidating. Many people have told me that they enjoy descriptions of bushwhacks that are found in no other guides, so I expanded on those as well.

Third, I include a few backpacking trails. The Old Loggers Path and Loyalsock Trail are two of Pennsylvania’s most beloved and scenic trails. Also included are two loops off of the Loyalsock Trail: the popular Loyalsock-Link Loop, and the incredibly beautiful Ketchum Run Gorge Loop Backpack.

Fourth, this guide has a section of color photographs featuring the beautiful scenery that you can expect to experience while hiking on these trails.

Why Hike in the Endless Mountains?

While the Endless Mountains do not have the elevations or alpine areas of other places, they do offer scenery other mountainous regions do not. Most trails in the Adirondacks, Whites, or Green Mountains are oriented toward reaching a summit. The Endless Mountains, however, offer numerous loops that feature not only views, but also diverse forest types, wetlands, gorges, and waterfalls. What is quite remarkable is the number of hikes in this region that offer waterfalls and cascades, features that are relatively rare along trails in other places. The vast plateaus hold wetlands, bogs, and numerous ponds that support a great diversity of wildlife. Numerous trails feature streamside hiking that many people enjoy. The trails in the Endless Mountains are generally isolated and rarely hiked; on most of these hikes you will not encounter another person.

Geology of the Region

Many people think that Pennsylvania’s natural wonders are generally located in four areas: the Poconos, the Laurel Highlands and southern Alleghenies, the Pine Creek Gorge region, and the Allegheny National Forest. Undoubtedly, these areas are exceptionally beautiful, but the splendors of Pennsylvania are not limited to these places. Outdoor lovers have long known of the natural beauty that exists in the Endless Mountains and around the Loyalsock, one of the state’s most scenic creeks. However, this region’s wonders have generally escaped the attention of the public.

Endless Mountains is the popular name given to Bradford, Sullivan, Susquehanna, and Wyoming counties in northeast Pennsylvania. Unlike the Poconos, Alleghenies, and Appalachians, the name Endless Mountains is not geologic. The Endless Mountains are generally considered to be part of the Allegheny Plateau and the Appalachian Mountains.

The Endless Mountains are composed primarily of two distinct geologic, physiographic sections—the Allegheny Glaciated High Plateau and the Allegheny Glaciated Low Plateau. The High Plateau stretches from Potter County in the northwest to Luzerne and Wyoming counties in the southeast. It is made up of flat, elongated uplands separated from the lowlands by a well-defined, steep escarpment. The High Plateau is capped with highly resistant sandstone and conglomerate and typically ranges in elevation from 1,800 to almost 2,600 feet. Like most plateaus, the High Plateau is characterized by flat tops with steep mountainsides. It has been heavily eroded by the Tioga River and the Loyalsock, Muncy, Schrader, Mehoopany, and Bowman creeks, which have created numerous gorges, canyons, glens, and white-water rapids. Many of these creeks have tributaries with beautiful waterfalls. This region contains the most spectacular scenery in the Endless Mountains and is the setting for most of the hikes in this guide.

The Low Plateau contains lower elevations with isolated mountains. This region has smooth rolling hills, numerous farms and orchards, and many glacial lakes and swamps. The Low Plateau extends from Tioga County to Wayne County and south to Pike County. Ironically, the highest peak in the Endless Mountains is in the Low Plateau—the summit of the North Knob of Elk Mountain, with an elevation of 2,693 feet.

The Deep Valleys Section comprises western Sullivan County, northern Lycoming County, and parts of Tioga County. This region is characterized by gorges and steep valleys, which reach depths of more than 1,000 feet, carved into the plateau. The plateaus contain layers of shale and sandstone. Sandstone is much more resistant to erosion and forms the tops of the plateaus, the steep slopes, and the flat steps along the contours of the plateau. Shale erodes much easier and forms the sloping terrain between the layers of sandstone.

Another prominent geologic feature in the Endless Mountains, located in southern Sullivan County, is the Allegheny Front (also known as the Allegheny Ridge). The Allegheny Front is a mountain ridge that marks the boundary between the Allegheny Plateau and the ridge and valley region. This front is a majestic sight as it rises from the surrounding farmlands to some of the highest elevations in northeastern and central Pennsylvania, reaching 2,593 feet at the summit of North Mountain.

Susquehanna River

To many people, the Susquehanna River is as much a part of the Endless Mountains as the mountains are. The Susquehanna flows past farmlands, towns, and villages and through narrow wooded valleys, taking no shortcuts to its mouth at the Chesapeake Bay. At 444 miles, it is considered the longest unnavigable river in North America. In many places, scenic mountains rise above the river. With its gentle rapids, the river is ideal for canoeing and fishing. The Susquehanna often flows beneath towering cliffs, such as at Wyalusing; the vista from Wyalusing Rocks is famous. There are even some oxbow loops, the most spectacular one being at Vosburg. Unlike the Delaware or the Lehigh, don’t be surprised if you have this large, beautiful river all to yourself.

Over the years, the river has become increasingly popular with paddlers. Many towns along the river provide access areas, and several islands are open to primitive camping.

Like most Pennsylvania rivers, the Susquehanna was once accompanied by a canal, in this case the North Branch Canal. This canal connected the Wyoming Valley to Elmira, New York. It was completed in 1855 but did not prove profitable due to maintenance problems, the Susquehanna’s predilection for flooding, and the rise of the railroad. Today, there are a few places where you can see remains of the canal along the river.

Loyalsock Creek

The Loyalsock is one of the most beautiful creeks in Pennsylvania. It is famous among white-water kayak and canoe enthusiasts for its rapids and incredible scenery. It is also a noted trout stream. The name Loyalsock is from the Indian phrase Lawi-saquick, meaning middle creek, because it flows between Lycoming and Muncy creeks.

The Loyalsock rises in western Wyoming County and quickly enters Sullivan County. By the time it crosses under US 220, the Loyalsock is a sizable stream. At this point, the creek begins to make its greatest cut into the surrounding plateau. The Loyalsock’s whitewater is located primarily between US 220 and Forksville, where there are class III and IV rapids. At Worlds End, the Loyalsock has carved a precipitous 800-foot, S-shaped canyon into the plateau. Many tributaries cascade into the Loyalsock at Worlds End. At Forksville, the creek flows under a covered bridge and joins the Little Loyalsock, its largest tributary.

From Forksville to Hillsgrove, the Loyalsock contains some class I–II rapids as it flows through scenic farmlands and abuts steep mountain-sides. A mile north of Hillsgrove, the Loyalsock flows underneath another beautiful covered bridge. From this point to the Lycoming County boundary, the creek resembles a small river as it flows through a scenic valley with mild rapids. When it crosses into Lycoming County, the valley narrows, and the Loyalsock is surrounded by sheer mountainsides and rocky bluffs. In some places, the mountains rise almost 1,200 feet above the creek. The Loyalsock then cuts through the Allegheny Front and flows placidly through farmlands until it empties into the West Branch of the Susquehanna River near Williamsport, marking the end of its 60-mile journey.

Trails in this Guide

The trails in this guide are mostly day hikes varying in difficulty and duration. (The values given for the duration and elevation change of hikes are approximations.) Many of the hikes are not covered by other guides. Personally, I enjoy trails with real scenic value, and these are the types I have included. To appeal to more experienced hikers, many hikes are off-trail or exploratory in nature. Other hikes use trails that are well marked and relatively easy, thus appealing to beginners. Some hikes in this guide may cross private property; please respect all posted signs and the rights of the property owners.

Acronyms

Throughout this book, you may notice different acronyms. They are as follows:

DCNR: Department of Conservation and Natural Resources (this department oversees the state parks and forests where most trails are located)

KTA: Keystone Trails Association

LT: Loyalsock Trail

MST: Mid State Trail

OLP: Old Loggers Path

A number of the hikes in this guide use portions of the Old Loggers Path and the Loyalsock Trail, two of Pennsylvania’s premier backpacking trails. They also use other hiking trails, jeep roads, old railroad grades, and forest roads. Many of the hikes are located in Loyalsock State Forest due to that entity’s sizable tracts of public land and its numerous hiking trails. Hikes from other areas in the Endless Mountains are also included.

Keep in mind that the Endless Mountains area is rugged and rocky; thus, almost all the hikes in this guide have the same characteristics. Care and a reasonable degree of physical fitness are required, and hiking boots are usually necessary.

Several hikes in this guide do not follow established trails. It is important that you be comfortable bushwhacking and have an appropriate map when hiking these areas. GPS coordinates have been included on some maps to aid in navigation; having a GPS is strongly encouraged. Some hikes follow streams without the aid of a trail. These hikes tend to be the most difficult, with rugged, slippery terrain and the greatest natural hazards. Care and caution are necessary.

Maps

Individual maps of each hike are included throughout this guide; several have GPS coordinates. The majority of the hikes in this guide can be found on state forest and park maps, which are free to the public. State game land maps cost only a few dollars and can be downloaded from the Internet at www.pgc.state.pa.us. Virtually all the roads that access these hikes, some of which are isolated, are also identified on these maps. To help you locate these trails, and as a safety measure, I suggest that you acquire maps of all the state parks, game lands, and forests covered in this guide. The Alpine Club of Williamsport also publishes quality guides and maps of the Loyalsock Trail at a fair price.

Loyalsock Trail and the Red X Trails

The 59.21-mile Loyalsock Trail (LT) is one of Pennsylvania’s most famous hiking trails. It was first established by an Explorer Boy Scout post from Williamsport in the early 1950s. In 1953, the Alpine Club of Williamsport was organized to maintain the original 30 miles of the trail. In the early 1960s, the trail was extended to its present length. There have been several relocations since then. The LT, like most Pennsylvania backpacking trails, is maintained by volunteers.

The LT has incredible scenery as it passes waterfalls, vistas, rock formations, and gorges. It explores the Allegheny Front and the surrounding plateau. Currently, there are no shelters along the LT.

While hiking the LT, you will notice several trails blazed with red X’s (RX trails). These are connector trails that begin and end at the LT. There are eight of these trails along the entire length of the LT. Only one of these RX trails has a proper name—the Link Trail. The Link Trail connects Worlds End to Loyalsock Creek two miles downstream from the Haystacks, near the iron bridge. Together, the Link and the LT make for a scenic backpacking loop.

Old Loggers Path

The Old Loggers Path (OLP) is a 28-mile loop in northeast Lycoming County. This scenic trail crosses numerous mountain streams and passes waterfalls and spectacular vistas. It utilizes several old railroad grades and logging roads dating from decades ago when the area was mined and logged. There are ghost towns in the area, such as Masten, through which the OLP passes. The OLP, which is considered one of Pennsylvania’s undiscovered hiking gems, is increasing in popularity. But you can still find plenty of isolation along this beautiful trail. The trail is maintained by the Loyalsock State Forest and volunteers.

MOST SCENIC HIKES

Salt Springs State Park

Fall Brook Natural Area

Susquehanna County

Woodbourne Forest and Wildlife Sanctuary

Wyoming County

Little Rocky Glen

Sprankles Pond

Stony Brook and Bartlett Mountain Loop

Catlin Brook Falls

Upper Mehoopany Creek Gorge

Luzerne County

Seven Tubs Natural Area

Ricketts Glen State Park

Falls Trail

Cherry Run and Mountain Springs Circuit

White Gold Circuit

Worlds End State Park

Worlds End Circuit

State Game Lands 13

Waterfall Wonderland: Big, Twin, Lewis, and Sullivan Falls

Loyalsock State Forest

The Haystacks and Dutchman Falls

Shanerburg Run and Rusty Falls

Scar Run Gorge Loop

Ketchum Run Gorge Loop

Dry Run Gorge Loop and High Knob Overlook

Angel Falls and Kettle Creek Gorge

Smiths Knob and Painter Run

Jacoby Falls

Frozen Run Gorge

Sullivan Mountain

Miners Run

Rock Run

Tioga County

Sand Run Falls

Bradford County

Falls Creek

HIKES WITH VIEWS

Wyoming County

Vosburg Neck (Camp Lackawanna and Endless Mountains Nature Center)

Flat Top Vista

Stony Brook and Bartlett Mountain Loop

Luzerne County

Mocanaqua Loop Trail

Ricketts Glen State Park

Grand View

White Gold Circuit

Worlds End State Park

Butternut Trail

Canyon Vista

Worlds End Vista and Cottonwood Falls

Worlds End Circuit

Loyalsock State Forest

Scar Run Gorge Loop

Ketchum Run Gorge Loop

Dry Run Gorge Loop and High Knob Overlook

Angel Falls and Kettle Creek Gorge

Hoagland Loop

Allegheny Ridge

Smiths Knob and Painter Run

Rider Park

Sullivan Mountain

Tioga County

C. Lynn Keller Trail

Mt. Pisgah State and County Parks

Ridge Trail

Hiking Safety

Be sure to take precautions when you go hiking to help ensure your safety. Please make sure you have, or do, the following:

•  Water is absolutely critical, regardless of the difficulty or length of the trail. Always make sure you have a water filter or other chemical treatment; all wilderness water sources should be treated.

•  Tell someone where you are hiking and, if you can, bring a friend.

•  Wear proper footwear and dress appropriately for the weather and elevation. Synthetic materials and wool are recommended. When wet, cotton loses its insulation capacity and dries very slowly, creating a risk of hypothermia. Never hike in cold temperatures unless you have the proper equipment and experience.

•  Bring sufficient food.

•  Obtain a map, learn how to read maps, and acquire as much information as possible about the trail you plan to hike.

•  Bring a flashlight and a small medical pack.

•  Check the weather report.

•  Be careful when hiking along, or crossing, streams and creeks in high water. Always unbuckle your hip belt when crossing deep streams.

•  Choose trails that are appropriate for your ability and experience

Hiking during Hunting Season

Almost every trail passes through land open to hunting. During hunting season, make sure to wear fluorescent orange, as required by the Pennsylvania Game Commission, and be considerate of hunters. Hunting is not permitted on Sundays. Try not to disturb a hunt or wildlife. It is important for hikers to be respectful of other outdoor users. For more information about hunting seasons, visit www.pgc.state.pa.us.

Trailhead Parking

Many trailheads are located in isolated areas and vandalism of vehicles does occasionally occur. To protect your vehicle, make sure it is locked, all windows are closed, and anything of value is placed out of sight. Commonsense precautions will go a long way.

If parking overnight at a state park, it is often required you register your vehicle for free at the park office; it is always a good idea to call the park and advise them you’ll be parking overnight. If you are parking overnight in a state forest, please call ahead and let state forest officials know where you’ll be parking so they can keep an eye out for your vehicle. By keeping the governing agency informed of your vehicle and whereabouts, you will put the authorities in a better position to help you should the need arise.

HIKES WITH WATERFALLS

AND CASCADES

Salt Springs State Park

Fall Brook Natural Area

Wyoming County

Little Rocky Glen

Stony Brook and Bartlett Mountain Loop

Catlin Brook Falls

Upper Mehoopany Creek Gorge

Luzerne County

Seven Tubs Natural Area

Little Shickshinny Creek Falls

Ricketts Glen State Park

Falls Trail

State Game Lands 13

Waterfall Wonderland: Big, Twin, Lewis, and Sullivan Falls

Worlds End State Park

Canyon Vista

Worlds End Vista and Cottonwood Falls

Worlds End Circuit

Tioga County

Sand Run Falls

Loyalsock State Forest

The Haystacks and Dutchman Falls

Coal Run and Sones Pond Loop

Shanerburg Run and Rusty Falls

Scar Run Gorge Loop

Ketchum Run Gorge Loop

Fern Rock Nature Trail

Dry Run Gorge Loop and High Knob Overlook

Angel Falls and Kettle Creek Gorge Hoagland Loop

Mill Creek Falls Loop

Middle and East Branch Falls Loop Jacoby Falls

Frozen Run Gorge

Miners Run

Rock Run

Hounds Run

Bradford County

Long Valley Run Cascades

Falls Creek

Little Schrader Creek

HIKES WITH LAKES AND PONDS

Lackawanna State Park

Lackawanna Lake Loop

North Woods Trail Loop

Lackawanna County

Merli Sarnoski Park

Wyoming County

Sprankles Pond

Luzerne County

Frances Slocum State Park

Ricketts Glen State Park

Beech Lake Loop

White Gold Circuit

State Game Lands 66

Lake John

Columbia and Montour Counties

Lake Chillisquaque and the Montour Preserve

Loyalsock State Forest

Coal Run and Sones Pond Loop

Tioga County

Hills Creek State Park

Mt. Pisgah State and County Parks

Oh! Susanna and Mill Stream Trails

Sign Trail Registers

Most trails in this guide occasionally have trail registers. It is important to sign them for several reasons: 1.) Safety. If something were to happen to you on the trail, it would be easier to determine your location and direction if you had signed the register; 2.) Government assistance. It is easier to acquire grants and funding to preserve and maintain trails that are being used. The most accurate way to determine use is by the number of names in a register; 3.) Trail conditions and warnings. Previous hikers often write trail conditions, warnings, and their experiences on the trail in the register, which is often helpful to subsequent hikers; and 4.) Camaraderie. Registers create a sense of kinship and camaraderie on the trail.

Bears

The black bear calls the Endless Mountains region home. For the experienced hiker, seeing a bear is a highlight of a trip because these shy, retiring creatures avoid human interaction. For the beginner hiker, no other animal causes more stress or worry.

Black bears do not need to be feared; they need to be treated with intelligence and respect. In all my years of hiking, I have only seen a bear twice. You should always avoid cubs and keep your distance from them because their mother will be protective and is more likely to be aggressive. Make noise when hiking through thick brush; surprising a bear can also result in an attack. Clapping or human voices are generally sufficient. Always rig your food, as well as your soap, toothpaste, and utensils, in a tree and avoid cooking meat when camping. Never keep food in your tent, as a hungry bear can slice through a tent with no problem.

If you do find yourself faced with an aggressive bear, back away slowly, avoid eye contact, and wave and clap your hands to make yourself appear larger. If a bear does charge you it will typically be a bluff; however, if a black bear does attack you, you must fight back. The myth of playing dead applies to brown or grizzly bears, which do not live in Pennsylvania. Hiking with a partner will further discourage a bear attack.

There is no need to be alarmed. In almost every case, a bear will leave the area where you are hiking without you ever knowing it was there. Because bears are heavily hunted, and not commonly fed, in Pennsylvania, they do not pose the same problem or nuisance as those found in the Adirondacks, or Shenandoah and Great Smoky Mountains national parks. However, you must be prepared in the unlikely situation that you are confronted with an aggressive bear.

HIKES WITH OLD-GROWTH FORESTS

Salt Springs State Park

Fall Brook Natural Area

Susquehanna County

Woodbourne Forest and Wildlife Sanctuary

Luzerne County

Moon Lake County Park

State Game Lands 13

Waterfall Wonderland: Big, Twin, Lewis, and Sullivan Falls

Ricketts Glen State Park

Falls Trail

Columbia and Montour Counties

Jakey Hollow Natural Area

Loyalsock State Forest

Ketchum Run Gorge Loop

Angel Falls and Kettle Creek Gorge

Smiths Knob and Painter Run

Sand Spring Trail (Devil’s Elbow Natural Area)

HIKES FOR CHILDREN

These trails, or portions thereof, are the most ideal for children, although it is difficult to identify the best trails for children due to kids’ wide variety of ages and capabilities. Even though these trails tend to be shorter and easier than others in this guide, please understand they still contain natural hazards that require parental supervision and common sense.

Salt Springs State Park

Fall Brook Natural Area

Susquehanna County

Woodbourne Forest and Wildlife Sanctuary

Lackawanna County

Keystone College

Wyoming County

Little Rocky Glen

Flat Top Vista

Sprankles Pond

Luzerne County

Frances Slocum State Park

Seven Tubs Natural Area

Ricketts Glen State Park

Evergreen Trail

Ganoga View and Old Beaverdam Road Trails

Grand View

Columbia and Montour Counties

Lake Chillisquaque and the Montour Preserve

Loyalsock State Forest

The Haystacks and Dutchman Falls

Shanerburg Run and Rusty Falls

Fern Rock Nature Trail

Jacoby Falls

Rider Park

Sharp Top Vista

Sand Spring Trail (Devil’s Elbow Natural Area)

Tioga County

Hills Creek State Park

Bradford County

Little Schrader Creek

Mt. Pisgah State and County Parks

Oh! Susanna and Mill Stream Trails

Snakes

Pennsylvania is home to three species of venomous snakes: timber rattlesnake, eastern copperhead, and the massasauga.

The timber rattlesnake grows to 35–74 inches, is most active between April and October, and occurs in two phases: the common black/brown phase, and the rare yellow phase. This snake often enjoys sunning on rocks. Suitable habitat for the timber rattlesnake is found throughout much of the commonwealth, but you are more likely to see it along trails in the northcentral part of the state, and along dry, rocky, ridgetop trails.

The eastern copperhead grows to 22–53 inches and also enjoys sunning on rocks. It lives throughout much of the state, but tends to be more common along trails in the northcentral region.

The massasauga is also a rattlesnake, but is very rare in Pennsylvania. It grows to 18–39 inches and generally lives in swamps, bogs, wetlands, or rivers. This snake only lives in the far western part of the state, far from the Endless Mountains.

Like bears, snakes tend to be shy creatures that are afraid of humans. Snakebites are rare and typically occur when people try to taunt, harass, or even handle a snake. When you approach a snake, always give it a wide berth and observe it from a safe distance. Do not harm snakes, as they are becoming increasingly rare and may be protected by law. Most of my snake encounters have been along rocks exposed to the sun, so be mindful when hiking this type of terrain. Thankfully, rattlesnakes almost always let you know if you are getting too close by emitting a shrill rattle or a hiss.

If a snake does bite you, seek medical attention immediately. The venom of these snakes is generally not fatal to an adult, but it can kill a small child. Keep the wound clean and immobilized as best you can; you can also apply a light tourniquet to slow the spread of the poison.

In all of my hiking trips, I have only seen poisonous snakes about twenty times. These sightings are a highlight of any trip. Because snakes are so crucial to our ecosystem, please respect them.

Stinging Nettle

Various species of nettle grow throughout the United States. In Pennsylvania, stinging nettle tends to grow in large groups or patches; stinging nettle has heart-shaped leaves and is generally 1–3 feet in height, but can grow as high as 5 feet. The stems have fine needles that pierce the skin and deliver formic acid. The result is a red, itchy, burning rash that can cause welts and blisters. Fortunately, this annoyance is usually temporary and can be alleviated by water, saliva, baking powder, or any substance that is a base.

Stinging nettle grows in shaded, wet areas, including streams and glens. It is often found along trails. Stinging nettle is most prevalent in summer months. I find it to be one of the most aggravating plants while hiking; the best defense is to simply wear long pants or gaiters while traveling through these areas.

Lyme Disease

Lyme disease is a bacterial infection transmitted by the bites of infected deer ticks. Very few tick bites actually lead to the disease. When a person is bitten by an infected deer tick, the disease develops in a few days to weeks. A circular rash will envelop the bite. Flu-like symptoms will result. If caught early enough, the disease can be successfully treated with antibiotics.

The risk of infection increases when the tick is attached for thirty-six to forty-eight hours. Most people will find a full-grown tick within that time, so the greatest risk of infection comes from tiny ticks in the nymph stage, which are about the size of a period.

Obviously, deer ticks are common in the