Knowledge For The Outdoors

Arrow Construction

Collection

♦A limb, bush, or shoot can be a possible candidate for an arrow shaft. Choose shoots that grow straight up. Shoots that are leaning over may appear straight, but the growth of their grain is affected by gravity. Seek crowded stands of shoots in the shade as crowded shoots must reach high for sunlight.

♦Shaft length should be matched to the bow and the archer. A finished arrow is generally about 30 long. However, some fishing arrows are several feet long and extend into the water before being shot. Cut a potential shaft 4–6 longer than desired to allow room to work the ends.

♦Shaft diameter with the bark on should be approximately the size of your little finger, but diameter ultimately depends on the density of the wood. Density determines weight, and arrows should be weighted to the bow. The higher the bow’s draw weight, the stiffer the arrow shaft needs to be. Potential shafts may taper from end to end or may be the same diameter throughout.

♦Collect several shafts at a time if possible. Store green or partially seasoned shafts out of direct sunlight and in a dry place to help eliminate cracks and splits. Bundle shafts around a straight, seasoned piece of wood, and hang. Never store shafts or finished arrows leaning up (they tend to warp) or on the ground (they tend to collect moisture).

Preparation

♦To increase the accuracy of arrows, work several shafts through the individual steps at the same time so they will be matched.

♦Peel freshly cut shoots. After peeling, bundle and cure for 2–8 weeks. Shafts cure quickly in a low humidity, high temperature environment, or with the controlled use of man-made heat (e.g. hot ashes in the bottom of a fire pit).

♦Begin straightening a shaft immediately after it is cut, and continue the straightening process every day until the shaft remains straight. At this point the wood should feel dryer, lighter and stiffer. The straightening process begins in the middle of a shaft, and works toward each end. Direct heat (a flame or heated rock) can be carefully applied to facilitate straightening, or apply about 5 minutes of steam to particularly stubborn bends. After heating, hyperextend the shaft and hold it in position until cool. Heat may be applied through friction by rubbing an area vigorously with an object such as an antler. Rub the concave part of the shaft and then apply pressure to straighten the bend. Also, wet bark can be wrapped around the crooked area and heated with a hot stone. Hot oil can be used to correct bends but sinew will not adhere to oiled areas. If you feel or hear a shaft crack or splinter while straightening, it should not be used. Periodic straightening will be necessary for the life of a primitive arrow.

♦There are several ways to determine if the arrow is straight: 1) sight down the shaft 2) lay the shaft up against a reliable straight edge 3) roll the shaft on a reliably flat surface 4) with both ends of the shaft slightly sharpened, spin the shaft on one end and then the other. If any wobble is seen or felt then additional straightening is needed.

♦Do not carve arrows but scrape them to the desired diameter. Careful scraping may avoid wash-boarding (ripples in the wood). The diameter of a shaft may be parallel (the same diameter throughout), or tapered toward one end or the other. A less common taper is from the center out toward both ends. If a parallel diameter is desired, the diameter may be monitored by pulling the shaft through a hole of the correct size. Such a hole can be bored into a piece of bone, wood, shell, stone, or metal.

♦Two pieces of soft stone, with grooves in each piece, may be used to smooth a shaft. Pull the shaft back and forth between the two pieces of stone.

Nock

♦Filing or sawing is the preferred method of preparing a nock, as cutting may split the shaft.

♦A nock can be made by cutting the arrow shaft with a little larger diameter at the nock end, and working the shaft down to the finished size. A nock can also be made by cutting a shaft with a nock end that has a small branch coming off of it. A piece of this small branch can be left as reinforcing for the nock. All arrow shafts do not need additional reinforcement in the nock area. (Fig. 1)

♦The nock may be abraded into the shaft either before or after the fletchings have been attached. Align the nock properly with the fletchings. (Fig. 2)

Fletching

♦Fletching may be made from pine needles, leaves, feathers, or similar materials.

♦Strands of sinew or artificial sinew (a waxed, multiply nylon), or any thin, strong cordage can be used to attach fletching to an arrow shaft. The cordage should be wound neatly and tightly. (see Cordage)

♦In most cases, feathers 2–3 long and 1/2 wide are sufficient. Shorter, wider feathers produce slower flight, shorter range, and fewer lost arrows. Longer, narrower feathers increase range and speed but lessen stability. Shots of only a few feet, or fishing arrows which extend into the water, need not be fletched. Arrows fletched with tail feathers tend to fly flat because these feathers are straight. The curve in wing feathers tends to make arrows spiral in flight. For the best stability and accuracy, use feathers from the same wing, and use the split feathers from the same side of each whole feather. (Fig. 3)

♦A whole, unsplit tail feather can be mounted on a shaft to form two fletchings, or try using two unsplit feathers to form four fletchings. This hasty method saves time, but is not as effective as the technique above. (Fig. 4)

♦To aid in splitting a feather, shave down the quill on the top and bottom of the feather. A feather can be straightened by passing it over a heated rock, which also makes it easier to split the midrib accurately. To split the feather, repeatedly run your knife down the groove on the underside. (The quill is rounded on the top of the feather.) After the feather has been split, scrape the entire length of the quill until it is smooth. To aid in this process hold the feather tautly between your teeth and the fingers of one hand, while the other hand uses a knife to scrape the quill. Now cut the feather to the desired length, leaving enough quill at each end to lash onto the shaft (about 1"). Another method for scraping the quill is to hold the feather between two thin pieces of wood to protect the feathers while you sand or scrape the split surface of the quill. (Fig. 5)

♦Two Methods of Attaching Feathers

♦The feathers are correctly positioned on the shaft, and temporarily held in place with thin twine. The feathers at the nock end are lashed in place first. The wrap on the quills at the nock end doubles as reinforcement for the nock. However, do not over-wrap the nock. When the feathers are secured at the nock, remove the temporary binding if it was used and apply glue along the quills if desired (the glue aids in lashing and holding the feathers against the shaft). Next dampen the feathers (moistening the feathers during the mounting process will shrink and tighten them in place), pull the unattached end of the feathers tight, and lash the quills to the forward location on the shaft. Continue down the quill and onto the shaft . This ensures that the quill tips are well covered so they will not gouge your hand on their way off the bow. (see Fig. 3)

♦The second method begins by lashing the front of the an upside-down feather to the shaft at the forward location, with the rear of the feather toward the point end of the shaft. (This method avoids some of the danger of the exposed quill sticking in your hand when the arrow is shot.) Next, apply glue along the quills if desired, dampen the feathers, bend them over into their correct position (this will double the quill over on itself) and lash the quills at the nock. The distance from the end of the feathers to the nock is whatever it takes to clear the feathers with your fingers when you grip the arrow to shoot. (This technique may be applied in reverse by beginning at the nock end of the arrow, and attaching the rear of the feathers in their upside-down position. The feathers are then bent forward into their correct position, which also doubles the quills over on themselves at the nock.) Frayed feathers may be brought back into line by steaming.

Points

♦Point size and design are determined by experience and personal preference. Narrow, penetrating points are often the choice for lighter draw weight hunting bows. Prepare an arrowhead from stone (see Flintknapping), bone, wood, antler, shell, or metal. Wooden points are usually carved from a hardwood limb that has been split. Carve only on the rounded side of the wood blank. The finished point is then fire hardened (see Tools). (Fig. 6)

♦Like the nock, the notch for the point should be abraded to avoid the possibility of splitting the shaft.

♦The arrowhead and nock may be aligned if desired, and pitch or glue can be used to help hold the point in place. The point is lashed to the end of the shaft, and the lashing continues a short way down the shaft as reinforcement. This reinforcement is not necessary if there is no attached point. (Fig 7)

♦The ideal balance point for a finished arrow is slightly to the front of center. Because of their weight, lightweight points are attached to the thick end of a tapered shaft, and heavier points to the thin end.

♦The end of an arrow shaft can be sharpened and fire hardened to create a point. If the arrow shaft is tapered, sharpen the larger end for better balance.

♦There are many types of arrow points, and different points are used for different types of game: mammals, birds and fish. (Fig. 8)

Additional Information

♦Completed arrows can be burnished with tallow or oil to aid in preservation. The absorption of the additives is improved by heating the shaft.

♦Check arrows for straightness often. Improper storage, changes in weather, moisture fluctuations, and even the stress of shooting an arrow can affect its straightness.

Awareness

Introduction

♦Modern biofeedback distinguishes four levels of consciousness: 1) beta–modern man’s regularly existing state in which only the most prominent sensory information, like brightly lit areas or traffic noise, is noticed. 2) alpha–a condition of heightened awareness and learning potential attained through a relaxed, meditative state. Awareness is greatly enhanced by learning the ability to exist regularly in the alpha state. 3) theta–a state of consciousness facilitating the ability to sense things outside the realm of sensory perception. The ability to use this sixth sense in the outdoors is developed by spending time in the woods, and realizing that man exists on the same plane with other living things. 4) delta–out-of-body awareness.

Aspects of Awareness

♦Using Your Senses

♦Sight

♦Sight is modern man’s primary sense. For the most part we use tunnel vision, focusing our eyes from spot to spot, never seeing the dead spaces in our viewing area. Using this method the shadowed and less prominent features are overlooked.

♦When your arms are held out from your sides to the point where you can barely see both hands, you are seeing with wide angle vision. Use this expanded vision to pick up movement or irregularities over a larger area of woods, and use your focused vision for details. The trained eye alternates between scanning the total landscape and scanning smaller sections of the immediate environment. Do not allow preconceived mental images to minimize or counteract perception. Relaxed, intermittent attention is preferable to staring.

♦The untrained eye takes in complete, whole objects, and then attends to detail to further define and label. The trained eye looks for irregularities which do not fit in the undisturbed scheme of things. These irregularities lead to the discovery of the entirely hidden, obscured or fragmented object.

♦Remember to avoid falling into a rut by viewing anew each day the most familiar areas of your world. It is also useful to remember certain characteristics of sight such as: 1) a distant object may appear different depending on whether it is viewed with the light of dawn, daylight or twilight, and 2) objects observed across a broad, open expanse appear farther away than they actually are due to visual perception.

♦Hearing

♦Sound carries, so track into the wind to maximize your chances of hearing an animal, while minimizing your chances of being heard.

♦Learn to hear and interpret animal sounds.

♦Touch

♦This sense may help in detecting relative temperature, and aid in determining a recent time line when analyzing tracks, bedding areas, scat, or campfires.

♦Touch may also be used when comparing other qualities such as texture, consistency, and adhesiveness.

♦Smell

♦Use your sense of smell to identify nearby animals or dens, territorial markings or wallows (urine), dead animals, smoke, insect repellent, etc.

♦Your sense of smell is better on damp nights than on dry nights, since the particles of moisture in the air help to hold a scent.

♦Increase your ability to smell by dampening your nostrils.

♦Put your nose lower to the ground as the air cools and descends, as scents tend to fall with the air.

♦Taste

♦Taste is used primarily for food discrimination, but works closely in conjunction with smell.

Note: Through experience you will become aware of the effect that time of day, weather, and seasons of the year have on your senses. For example, darkness and wind each exert a different type of influence on your hearing. Hearing sharpens with darkness to compensate for decreased visibility, while the increased noise level from wind hinders hearing.

♦Awareness through Intuition

♦Physical–Intuition on a physical level is characterized by a strong body response (headache, stomach tension, nausea, and hair raising on the back of the neck) in situations where, apparently, nothing unusual is happening.

♦Emotional–The emotional level of intuition comes to consciousness through feelings (vibes, instant like or dislike of someone or something).

♦Mental–The mental level of intuition is related to the realm of problem solving in which flashes of inspiration occur. For example, after days, weeks or months of trying to solve a problem the answer comes suddenly in a flash.

♦Spiritual–The spiritual level of intuition is pure intuition, independent of sensation, feeling, or thought. There is no sensation of separateness, but a blending of self with the moment. Spiritual intuition is associated with the theta state of awareness. Animals have developed this sixth sense to a high degree and can, for example, know if you are hunting or merely observing them.

Note: Physical, emotional, mental, and spiritual intuition often work together.

Baseline Awareness

♦There is a discernible level of activity present in the woods at any particular time of day or night. You must be aware of this baseline activity level, which measures animal noise and movement, so you will know when the baseline has been disturbed. If you live in the woods for a period of time the baseline will become second nature to you, but each new time you enter the woods it is useful to sit quietly for a while until you are attuned to the current level. (Fig. 1) Once the baseline is established, pay attention to the rise and fall of this activity level, which is dependent upon new events which take place. When something changes in the forest the baseline is either raised or lowered depending on the event. The change echoes through the woods in all directions like the ripples from a pebble thrown on a quiet pond. This is the concentric rings phenomena. Every disturbance has a cause and effect which is radiated through the forest. For example, a bird calls out as a fox passes, alerting a squirrel.

Practicing Awareness

♦Awareness is a skill like any other and must be practiced in order to attain a high level of proficiency. Periodically practice heightened sensory awareness by blindfolding yourself and going about your normal camp activities. It may be helpful to have a partner who can shadow you for safety. This activity will improve your balance, sensitivity to the landscape, stalking ability, and ability to travel at night. Pay specific attention to the other senses while blindfolded and you will realize how much they are neglected due to your dependence on sight. Time and distance are distorted with the loss of sight, but touch, taste, smell, and the ability to hear are amplified.

♦Another technique for elevating your sensory awareness is to find a sit area where you can simply close your eyes and tune into the other senses. The sit area can be any spot in the woods that feels comfortable to you.

♦Heightened awareness is necessary for mastering any outdoor skill, but the real test of your awareness is your ability to interpret the activity that is constantly taking place around you.

Backpacking

Traditional Backpacking

♦Introduction–There are many ways to enjoy the outdoors. Backpacking allows a freedom of movement with a degree of portable comfort.

♦Outfitting–The length of your trip is dependent to a large extent on the choices you make concerning food and equipment. These choices also determine the amount of weight you will carry.

Backpacks

♦External Frame

♦Pack frame–capable of carrying heavy loads efficiently

♦The frame holds the bag and is often contoured to fit the spine. Welded frame joints are the strongest.

♦A padded hip belt transfers weight to the hips. It should have a quick-release buckle.

♦The hip belt and shoulder straps adjust to distribute weight.

♦A mesh backband stretched across the frame, rests against the low back for comfort, and increases ventilation.

♦Pack bag

♦Bags are usually constructed from varying weights of cotton or nylon. They are often treated for weather protection, and some offer a rain cover.

♦Most packs will not be 100% waterproof.

♦Bags may be top- or front-loading, and have side, front and/or interior pockets.

♦The main compartment may have a removable divider.

♦Choosing pack size

♦Frame size and torso size should be compatible.

♦Choose the load capacity based on personal needs.

♦Test the pack in the store with at least 20 lbs. in the pack.

♦Internal Frame

♦The pack frame sits close to your back for stability, but is not as weight-efficient as an external frame pack.

♦The pack stays may be single or double, internal or external, and are usually bent to fit your back.

♦The hip belt and shoulder straps allow load adjustment between hips and shoulders.

♦A lumbar pad adds comfort.

♦Pack bag and size considerations are the same as for an external frame pack.

♦Pack Loading

♦The average person can carry 25% of their body weight comfortably.

♦Carry as little as your experience, necessity, and comfort zone require.

♦Down-size where possible.

♦Heavier items are usually carried more efficiently toward the top.

Boots

♦Choosing a Boot

♦Research as much as you can, and/or go to an experienced boot supplier.

♦Considerations

♦Hiking distances, weather, and terrain

♦Your weight, and the weight of the load to be carried

♦The weight of the boot is important, as one pound on your feet equals about six pounds on your back.

♦Buy a size that is slightly large, as opposed to a size that is a little small. Boots that are too small can cause serious problems for your feet.

♦When you try on boots, use the socks you will wear on the trail.

♦Construction

♦Uppers–leather, nylon, Gore-Tex, or other synthetic

♦Soles–Vibram, leather, rubber, polyurethane

♦Laces–nylon is best, cotton is less durable

♦Variety of Boots

♦Trail hikers–a light boot for one-day hikes with a day pack

♦Off-trail hikers–a light/medium boot for 2-day trips with a light pack

♦Backpacking–a medium boot for trips of 2 to 4 days with a medium-weight pack

♦Extended trip–a heavy boot for 4 or more days with a heavy pack

♦Boot Care and Break-in

♦Waterproof boots before wearing.

♦Wear boots at home to break them in.

♦Boots dried too close to an open fire may be damaged. Speed drying by stuffing your boots with small, fire-warmed rocks placed inside socks.

♦After the trip, clean boots, reapply waterproofing, and stuff with newspaper to absorb moisture and aid in drying.

♦Socks

♦Provide warmth, insulation, padding, and skin comfort

♦85% wool, 10% nylon, 5% spandex is a good blend.

♦Cotton socks are not recommended for hiking as they offer no heat retention and do not wear well when wet.

♦Always have a dry pair of socks to sleep in on cold nights, or for an emergency.

♦Foot Maintenance

♦Keep toenails clipped.

♦Attend to blisters.

♦Dry feet periodically in wet weather.

♦Keep your feet as clean as possible.

Clothing

♦Material

♦Wool is warm when wet, and somewhat resistant to fire.

♦Silk is warm, light, and easily dried.

♦Cotton is comfortable, but absorbs moisture and is cold when wet.

♦Nylon is strong, durable, and quick-drying.

♦Polypropylene wicks moisture away from body and dries quickly.

♦Fiberpile insulates well and is half the weight of wool, but it burns easily.

♦Gore-Tex is waterproof, breathable if the activity level is low, and expensive.

♦Down is light and warm only when dry.

♦Layering in Cold Weather

♦By layering your clothes you can obtain maximum heat retention. Air is trapped and warmed between the layers.

♦Proper layering also prevents overheating with ventilation adjustments at the head, neck, underarms, waist, wrists, hands, and ankles. Shirts and jackets that button or zip in the front offer the most flexibility.

♦The Layers

♦Long underwear

♦Inner layer–shirts, vest, pants, socks

♦Outer layer–jacket or coat, hat, gloves

♦Shell layer–jacket, pants, poncho (windproof, waterproof)

♦Essential Clothing

♦Shoes, socks (wool, 2 pair), shorts (nylon), pants (wool), belt

♦Undershirt (short sleeve, polypropylene), shirt (long sleeve, wool)

♦Vest, hat, gloves, bandanna, rain gear

Note: In winter, add long underwear and a jacket or coat.

Equipment

♦Essentials

♦Pack, shelter (tent or tarp), sleeping bag or blanket, ground tarp, (and in winter, a ground pad)

♦Waterproof matches, knife, water container, water purification system, food, cooking pot

♦Map and compass, cordage, flashlight and batteries

♦Survival and first aid kits (see Wilderness Safe)

♦Optional Equipment

♦Sun block, insect repellent, toilet articles

♦Tent/tarp repair kit, sewing kit, saw, shoe treatment

♦Fishing tackle, eating utensils, note pad and pencil

Sleeping Bags

♦Down Fill

♦Compresses well

♦Lighter than synthetics for same degree of warmth

♦Insulates better than other material

♦Bag should have baffles to keep the down in position, but not stitched all the way through

♦Expensive

♦Provides little to no insulation when wet, and requires a long time to dry

♦Synthetic Fills Compared to Down

♦Bulkier

♦Heavier

♦Do not insulate as well

♦Less expensive

♦Retain warmth when wet and dry quickly

♦Non-allergenic

♦Shape

♦Mummy–warmest design, lightest, least amount of room

♦Modified mummy–cut a little larger than mummy bag

♦Rectangular–roomiest, heaviest, least warm

♦Design

♦Inner and outer shell are usually made of nylon. Cotton is too prone to absorb moisture and is heavy.

♦A two-way zipper which extends around the bottom of the feet is preferable, as it allows for variable ventilation.

♦A baffle on the inner portion of the bag, along the zipper, reduces draft.

♦Quality bags will have a drawstring around the hood so that the bag can be drawn around the head and face in cold weather, exposing only the mouth.

♦Weight is relative to temperature. A 30o to 40o F bag may be sufficient most of the year, and can be improved for colder camping by adding an inner or outer shell.

♦Down, as well as synthetically filled bags, are best cleaned by hand.

♦A ground pad under your bag not only improves comfort, but is also necessary for insulation in winter.

Shelter

♦Tents

♦Considerations

♦Price–relatively expensive

♦Weight–backpacking tents vary between 2 1/2 and 9 lbs

♦Size–one-person, two-person, four-person, etc.

♦Weather in which the tent will be used

♦The need for ventilation/mosquito netting

♦A rain fly is often required.

♦Material–waterproof nylon, Gore-Tex, canvas

♦Shape–dome, tunnel, asymmetrical, rectangular

♦Type–bivy, family, double walled, backpacking, free standing, etc.

♦Earth tones versus safety colors

♦Setup and care

♦Practice setting your tent up at home before taking it on a trip.

♦Seal the seams for better waterproofing.

♦A ground cloth is usually necessary under the tent floor to ensure dryness.

♦Tents should be set up and dried out at home after returning from each trip.

♦Tarps

♦Considerations

♦Price–relatively inexpensive

♦Weight–1 to 2 lbs

♦Size–dependent on purpose of shelter and number of people

♦Weather in which the tarp will be used

♦Material–waterproof nylon, Gore-Tex, canvas

♦Grommets around the perimeter are useful for setup.

♦Setup and care

♦Trees, shrubs, or poles are required.

♦Some cordage is necessary.

♦Stakes, logs, or rocks are used as anchors.

♦Practice putting the tarp up in various configurations before leaving home. Knowing a few basic knots is helpful.

♦Tarps should be set up and dried out at home after returning from each trip.

Hiking

♦Adults

♦Be physically, mentally and emotionally prepared.

♦Plan your hike around the time available, the terrain to be crossed, possible weather, and the condition of the hikers.

♦Ensure that food and water logistics are adequate.

♦Respect the land.

♦Children

♦Essentials

♦The pace will be slower and the trips shorter than for adults.

♦Camp a relatively short distance from the car, in case there is a problem.

♦Keep the trip fun by staying within the child’s physical limits, expectations, and interest.

♦Large changes in elevation can irritate the respiratory system of children under the age of one year.

♦Ensure adequate clothing, shoes, and equipment.

♦Children old enough to walk on their own should always carry