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    French Polishing Stage by Stage - Easy to Follow Instructions for Novices
    French Polishing Stage by Stage - Easy to Follow Instructions for Novices
    French Polishing Stage by Stage - Easy to Follow Instructions for Novices
    Ebook56 pages49 minutes

    French Polishing Stage by Stage - Easy to Follow Instructions for Novices

    By Anon

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    About this ebook

    This antiquarian book contains a comprehensive, step-by-step guide to French polishing. French Polishing is the art of covering wood with a layer of lac laid on in solution, the object being to produce a highly polished surface. Containing easy-to-follow instructions and helpful illustrations, this guide is perfect for the novice with little previous experience and makes for a great addition to collections of DIY literature. The chapters of this book are: Preparation, Staining, Filling In, Fadding-In, Colouring or Matching, Varnishing, Finishing, and Polishing Period Furniture. We have elected this book for modern republication due to the timeless nature of its contents, and we are proud to republish it now complete with a new introduction on French polish.
    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherRead Books Ltd.
    Release dateSep 9, 2016
    ISBN9781473357754
    French Polishing Stage by Stage - Easy to Follow Instructions for Novices

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      Book preview

      French Polishing Stage by Stage - Easy to Follow Instructions for Novices - Anon

      French Polishing Stage by Stage

      PREPARATION

      French polishing, reduced to its simplest terms, consists in covering the surface of the wood with a perfectly smooth film of shellac. The very simplicity of the definition hides the practical difficulties which the performer only too readily discovers for himself, unless he has the patience to execute each stage of the process thoroughly and without hurry. When it is realised that the film of polish which is to adhere to the wood is only a few thousandths of an inch in thickness, it will be obvious that, if this final surface is to be smooth, that of the wood immediately beneath must be equally so, before any of the polishing operations can be commenced.

      It is assumed that the work has already been finished. This means that any nails or sprigs should have been sunk beneath the surface with a punch, that glue stains should have been removed and the whole work cleaned up with a keen, finely adjusted smoothing plane. Faint ridges from the plane iron are likely still to persist in the surface and, although invisible at this stage, will reappear, even after glass-papering, in an unpleasantly exaggerated form when the work is finally polished. After planing, therefore, the work should be well scraped with a cabinet maker’s steel scraper before rubbing down with fine glass-paper wrapped round a flat cork block and applied in the direction of the grain. Where there is cross-banding or finely figured curls or burrs, a circular motion should be used.

      These operations, if carefully carried out, will have done a great deal towards the achievement of a smooth surface, but two further sources of imperfection remain, the first being the small fissures of the grain itself, and the second the potentiality of the fibres of the wood for swelling and raising the grain when wetted by the various solutions used in the succeeding operations. It is most convenient to counteract this latter defect at this stage and for this reason the cabinet maker damps down his work with hot water and puts it aside to dry. This application of water has the effect of swelling or raising the grain, which can then be levelled again with the finest grade of glass-paper over a cork block and working in the direction of the grain. The work should now be dusted down carefully and, to simplify the subsequent operations, all removable parts, such as doors and mouldings, should be taken off. To ensure that all parts may eventually be reassembled in the correct positions, the polisher should mark both the part and the position it occupied with corresponding Roman numerals which can conveniently be indented by means of a screwdriver. The operator must, of course, take care to mark only those surfaces which will be concealed on reassembly.

      It is axiomatic to say that the various faults are the more perfectly concealed the earlier in the process they are corrected. For this reason the polisher should now examine the article thoroughly. Any small holes or ill-fitting joints should be stopped with hard stopping or plastic wood. Both these preparations are sold in several shades and it is generally more convenient to purchase them ready made. It must be borne in mind that the stain does not take on this stopping, so that it is essential that the stopping should be chosen to match the finished work. Dents, bruises and scratches, if they are slight and the wood not too hard, may be removed by applying a little hot water and, when dry, glass-papering over the spot. More stubborn cases may be corrected by placing a rag soaked in water over the spot and applying a hot iron. If the part is veneered, it must be remembered

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