One Best Hike: Yosemite's Half Dome

One Best Hike: Yosemite’s Half Dome

2nd EDITION 2012

Copyright © 2012 by Carpe Diem Experience, LLC (Rick Deutsch)

Text and photos by the author, except where indicated.

Cover design: Larry B. Van Dyke and Scott McGrew

Book design and layout: Andreas Schueller and Annie Long

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Deutsch, Rick.

One best hike: Yosemite’s Half Dome / Rick Deutsch. — 2nd ed.

  p. cm.

Includes bibliographical references and index.

ISBN-13: 978-0-89997-674-7

ISBN-10: 0-89997-674-3

1. Hiking—California—Yosemite National Park—Guidebooks. 2. Hiking—California—Half Dome—Guidebooks. 3. Half Dome (Calif.)—Guidebooks. 4. Yosemite National Park (Calif.)—Guidebooks. I. Title.

GV199.42.C22Y664 2012

917.94’47—dc23

2011053068

Manufactured in the United States of America

Visit our website for a complete list of our books and for ordering information.

Distributed by Publishers Group West

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means electronic, mechanical, recording, or otherwise, without written permission from the publisher, except for brief quotations used in reviews.

SAFETY NOTICE: Although Wilderness Press and the author have made every attempt to ensure that the information in this book is accurate at press time, they are not responsible for any loss, damage, injury, or inconvenience that may occur to anyone while using this book. Readers are advised to recheck phone numbers, prices, addresses, and other material. You are responsible for your own safety and health while in the wilderness. The fact that a trail is described in this book does not mean that it will be safe for you. The potential for falls, heat exhaustion, dehydration, hyperventilation, or other problems are possible (though not likely). Be aware that trail conditions can change from day to day. Always check local conditions and the weather, and know your own limitations.

Acknowledgments

I would like to thank:

My wife, Diane, for her patience during my many hikes of Half Dome, my training, and the hours I spent at the keyboard.

My sister, Michelle Deutsch LaMarche, who did the hike before me and encouraged me to do it the first time.

The National Park Service and the Yosemite Conservancy for their support of this precious American resource.

Dan Anderson for his efforts in digitizing many of the early Yosemite historical manuscripts in the Yosemite Online Library so that everyone may enjoy them.

Harv Galic for his compilation of the Chronicles of Early Ascents of Half Dome.

The many new friendships that Half Dome has introduced me to, including Sonke Kastner, Sister Kathy Littrell, Scott Gehrman, Pat Townsley, NPS ranger Mark Marschall, NPS ranger Daniel Schaible, Pete Devine (Yosemite Conservancy), and my many Facebook fans, blog readers, and audiences.

My hiking buddy, Yosey (as in Yosemite), a 5-pound Yorkie whose zest for life inspires me.

Rick Deutsch

Mr. Half Dome

Contents

FOREWORD:

PREFACE:

1 INTRODUCTION

2 GEOLOGY OF YOSEMITE AND HALF DOME

How Yosemite Was Formed

How Half Dome Was Formed

3 HUMANS IN YOSEMITE

Native Americans

Arrival of the Whites

Gold Fever

The Crush Begins

4 THE ASCENT OF HALF DOME

Construction of the Cable Route

The Slippery Slope

Half Dome Today

Overview of the Half Dome Hike

Leave No Trace

5 PRECAUTIONS

Intensity

Weather

Altitude Sickness

Mosquitoes

Ticks

Waterborne Critters

The Falls

Falling

Wildlife

6 GETTING THERE

Arriving via CA 41 Northbound

Arriving via CA 140 Northbound

Arriving via CA 120 Westbound

Arriving via CA 120 Eastbound

Entering Yosemite

7 PREPARATION

Accommodations

Permits

Conditioning

What to Bring

When to Go

Guided Hikes

8 THE HIKE

POI 1: Mileage Marker Sign

POI 2: Vernal Fall Bridge

POI 3: Top of Vernal Fall

POI 4: Silver Apron Bridge

POI 5: Mist Trail–JMT Junction

POI 6: Little Yosemite Valley

POI 7: Half Dome–JMT Split

POI 8: The Little Spring

POI 9: Base of Sub Dome

POI 10: Base of the Cables

POI 11: Apex of Half Dome

POI 12: The Little Spring—again

POI 13: Little Yosemite Valley—again

POI 14: Mist Trail–JMT Junction—again

POI 15: Nevada Fall Bridge

POI 16: Clark Point

POI 17: Vernal Fall Bridge—again

POI 18: Mileage Marker Sign—again

EPILOGUE

APPENDIX 1: Key Dates in Yosemite and Half Dome History

APPENDIX 2: Preventive Search and Rescue Tips

APPENDIX 3: Half Dome Hiking Accidents

APPENDIX 4: References and Information Sources

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Foreword

I heartily recommend this book. It is a well-written and thorough guide to reaching the top of my favorite Yosemite rock form. Why is Half Dome my favorite? Because it stands alone at the east end of Yosemite Valley. It isn’t as big as El Capitan, 7 miles to the west. With its 3,000-foot south face, El Capitan guards the gates of the valley. But Half Dome has a 2,000-foot northwest face that is straight up and down, a summit that isn’t reachable by merely hiking a trail through the forest, and the Dome is almost 2,000 feet higher than El Cap. Half Dome was first climbed in 1875 by George Anderson, a Scot (John Muir, another Scot, reached the summit of Cathedral Peak in 1869). These days Half Dome is ascended tens of thousands of times a year. Why? Because people want to be able to say, as they look up from the valley, I’ve been there. Once, the author of this book, after complimenting me on having made the first ascent of the great face of Half Dome, claimed that Of course, I went up the easy way. As I said to Rick then and say to you, dear reader, now, There’s no easy way up Half Dome. Getting to the top requires a nearly 16-mile round-trip and an elevation gain of almost 5,000 feet. That’s a bit of work for a day, but you can do it. I would read carefully what Rick Deutsch has to say in this revised second edition, especially about being fit. You want to be fit and to have good footwear.

Rick has had to revise this guide to hiking Half Dome. Things change, and the guide has to change with them. In particular, there is now a permit system to ascend the cable stairway of Half Dome. Yes, I know, permit systems are a bother. Oh, for the days when we could spend the night on top of Half Dome. The park service instituted the permit system to cut down on the crowding that was occurring on the cables. There have been a few serious accidents that were attributable to so many people being up there at the same time. Rick now includes a thorough guide to navigating the permit system.

The only place where I differ significantly from Rick is on starting time. Rick recommends an early start. I agree. But where Rick suggests 6 a.m., I am for 3 a.m. I know it is hard to get up that early, but if you do you will never be sorry. You will hike up in the cool of the morning and reach the top ahead of the crowds, so much ahead of them that you will be able to descend the cables before they arrive and start up. Rick also says that June is his favorite time of year in Yosemite. I prefer the fall. It’s true that the waterfalls have dried up, but there are no bugs, the air is clear, the Mist Trail is dry, and the people have left.

Have a good hike and remember, you are going to the best summit in the Yosemite region.

Royal Robbins

Modesto, CA

March 2012

Note: Royal Robbins led the first group to climb the 1,800-foot-high Regular Northwest Face route on Half Dome in 1957.

Preface

The motto for my life is carpe diem. This is a Latin phrase meaning seize the day. It is believed to have originated with the ancient philosopher Horace, the leading Roman lyric poet during the time of Augustus Caesar. The phrase was made popular in the 1989 movie Dead Poets Society, starring Robin Williams. He invoked his students: Carpe diem! Seize the day, lads. Make your lives extraordinary! Another interpretation would be: Smell the rose today, for it may be wilted tomorrow.

My first Half Dome hike, in 1990, was a life-changing experience. It was so much fun and so challenging that I decided to do it every year. It made me realize that if I was to experience all life had to offer, I had to get planning. I wrote a life list (now called a bucket list, a term made popular by the 2007 film starring Jack Nicholson and Morgan Freeman) to make sure I did the things I wanted to do. Prior to Half Dome I said, Someday I want to see the pyramids; someday I will see the Taj Mahal; someday I will walk on the Great Wall. When you are young, you have a lot of somedays. But in reality, someday often never comes. I have carried my life list for more than 20 years and checked off many things. For me it’s a living list—I constantly add things. I had never heard of Jordan’s treasure, Petra, five years ago and now I’ve been there. Looking back, for me Half Dome was the start of this awareness. We all have a finite number of heartbeats allocated to us, and one day tomorrow will not come. Our personal life odometer clicks over relentlessly; too soon you’re 30, 40, 50, and beyond. It seems to spin too fast. What you do with your time is your decision. You have a choice: Sit on the sidelines and watch the world on your TV or get out and live life. Experience things while you can; hike Half Dome.

Try this exercise. Write down all the things you want to do or see or experience before you die. Now write down the number of years you think you will remain ambulatory and able to physically and mentally attempt those things. Next, consider how much free time you will have available. This should be your private list—only put down the things that you personally want to do. And remember that you’ll likely use some of your vacation time for weddings, funerals, and family events. A few of your major wants may take two weeks or more (a safari, a trip to Antarctica, a bike ride across America). You will see that there is not enough time left to do the whole list—let alone repeat the spectacular ones. Put down the TV remote and strap on your hiking boots, ride your bike, swim, run, or just smell that rose today.

In this second edition, I have incorporated a wealth of learning gained about Half Dome and the early days of Yosemite. I expanded on much of the early Yosemite history and geology and added GPS points to help you arrive at the points of interest. At press time I had done the hike 31 times. Half Dome is my passion; make it yours.

I’ll do my best to get you to the top of your mountain. You can do Half Dome with three things: education, preparation, and motivation. I will help teach you what you need to know. You have to do the prep work. Hike a lot of hills and build up your upper body strength for the pull up the famous cables. Do the hike because you want to do it. What is your motivation? Half Dome is a goal and a journey. Have fun!

Carpe diem!

Rick Deutsch Mr. Half Dome

www.HikeHalfDome.com

1

Introduction

No temple made with hands can compare with Yosemite. Every rock in its walls seems to glow with life …. The true ownership of the wilderness belongs in the highest to those who love it most.

—John Muir

Yosemite —the very name evokes images of verdant valleys, cascading waterfalls, peaceful meadows, soaring mountains, arching domes, meandering rivers, lush forests, diverse wildlife, and 2,000-year-old giant sequoias. These 1,200 square miles, located in Northern California’s Sierra Nevada mountain range, are the crown jewel of the National Park Service. Yosemite has become a must-see on the list of every outdoor enthusiast. The park’s natural wonders attract people of all kinds, be they old, young, citizens, or foreigners. Nearly 4 million people come each year. With this popularity comes the crush of humanity—out to explore the wonders of nature, many sporting only a backpack, a bottle of water, and a desire to see nature as it has existed for centuries. Yosemite’s hikes are superb, from short jaunts to expeditions of several days. The Yosemite Valley comprises only 1% of the park but is the most popular destination in this paradise; 95% of Yosemite is designated wilderness.

In the wilderness we can seek solitude, devoid of human impact. Recognize that being in the wilderness brings responsibility. You must assess any risks you may encounter and deal with them appropriately. Hiking, climbing, bouldering, encountering wildlife, and gazing over cliffs can be risky. This includes the exhilarating trek up Half Dome. No one will tell you that you cannot go up. No one is there to log you in, examine your gear, or make a judgment as to your ability to do this hike. Beyond the park-wide regulations guiding safety and resource protection, prohibiting certain activities such as BASE jumping, there are only two specific official rules: (1) You cannot camp