Insight Guides Malta (Travel Guide eBook)

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Malta’s Top 10 Attractions

There really is so much to see and do across Malta, Gozo and Comino, but this is our pick of what simply can’t be missed.

Top Attraction 1

Valletta. This Unesco World Heritage Site is going through some changes, but is still one of the most beautiful parts of the island. Don’t miss St John’s Co-Cathedral, St George’s Square and the Manoel Theatre. For more information, click here.

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Top Attraction 2

Upper Barrakka Gardens. Recently restored, these lovely gardens enjoy some of the most stunning views anywhere in Malta. The perfect place to snap pictures of Grand Harbour. For more information, click here.

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Top Attraction 3

Ta Pinu, Gozo. This simple church houses a shrine to Our Lady, with touching stories and artefacts that are truly inspiring. For more information, click here.

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Top Attraction 4

The Blue Lagoon, Comino. The best beach on uninhabited Comino, take a boat trip here to bathe in the turquoise waters. For more information, click here.

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Top Attraction 5

The Azure Window, Gozo. Adjacent to the striking Dwejra inland sea, this landmark is truly extraordinary. Best seen from the sea. For more information, click here.

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Top Attraction 6

Ggantija Temples. The oldest of Malta’s temples, as well as one of the oldest free-standing stone structures in the world, Ggantija dates back to 3,600 BC. For more information, click here.

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Top Attraction 7

The Palace of the Grand Masters. One of the proudest buildings in Valletta, go inside to explore the Armoury and see incredible tapestries. For more information, click here.

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Top Attraction 8

The Cittadella, Gozo. Take the steep climb up to the old, walled capital and explore the bastions. It has great 360-degree views of the island below. For more information, click here.

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Top Attraction 9

Mellieha Bay. With its crystal-clear waters and great facilities for all the family, it’s no wonder this is one of the most popular sandy beaches. For more information, click here.

Malta Tourism Authority

Top Attraction 10

Mdina. Known as the Silent City, this is Malta’s medieval jewel. Explore the winding backstreets surrounded by imposing walls, or take a romantic, lamp-lit stroll at night. For more information, click here.

Viewing Malta

Editor’s Choice

From family fun to historic gems, Malta promises a little something for everyone, and these are our top recommendations.

Best for Families

Popeye Village. Since the 1970s, this one-time movie set has been a popular place for children to let their imagination run riot with the characters from the Popeye film. There is also a beach, a restaurant and boat rides out to sea. For more information, click here.

The Melita Trackless Train. Leaving from just beside Rabat’s Domus Romana, the whole family will love a trip on this trackless train. For more information, click here.

Ta’ Qali Family Adventure Park. This adventure park has become a new favourite with local families, with climbing frames and open spaces the whole family can enjoy together. For more information, click here.

Splash & Fun. This water park makes for a great day out, with slides, a lazy river and a wave pool. For more information, click here.

Qui-Si-Sana Gardens. With a lovely lawn and plenty of space to play, this Sliema park – which overlooks the sea – is ideal for all ages. For more information, click here.

Best Museums

National Museum of Archaeology. Originally built in 1574 by the Knights of St John, this beautiful building now houses the islands’ most prized archaeological treasures. For more information, click here.

The Malta Experience. This audiovisual experience is the perfect introduction to the islands, and takes spectators on a journey from their early history to the present day. For more information, click here.

Casa Rocca Piccola. This beautiful Valletta home has been opened to the public and is still run by the noble family that has owned it for centuries. For more information, click here.

St James Cavalier Centre for Creativity. Also in Valletta, this fort was transformed into a centre for the creative arts. Culture vultures will love it. For more information, click here.

Carmelite Priory Museum. Set on Mdina’s main street, this friary threw open its doors to the general public for the first time a few years ago and is a historical gem well worth exploring. For more information, click here.

Exhibit in the Archaeology Museum.

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Best Festivals and Events

The Malta Arts Festival. Fast becoming one of the biggest arts festivals in the Mediterranean, this three-week event takes place every July and showcases artists from the worlds of music, theatre, dance, street performance, art and more. For more information, click here.

The Jazz Festival. Also held in July, the Grand Harbour has become the well-loved backdrop for this incredible international music event that annually attracts some of the world’s biggest names in jazz. For more information, click here.

The Farsons Great Beer Festival. An event for beer lovers and foodies, August has become synonymous with a trip to Ta’ Qali for the great atmosphere and brilliant live music performances (www.farsonsbeerfestival.com).

Isle of MTV. The largest open-air concert in Europe now takes place in Malta every June. Past acts have included Lady Gaga, the Black Eyed Peas and Snoop Dogg (www.isleofmtv.com).

Malta Arts Festival.

Malta Culture

Best Beaches

Mellieha Bay, Malta. Below the town of Mellieha, this is the island’s longest sandy beach. With full facilities, it is a favourite for family outings. For more information, click here.

Ghajn Tuffieha, Malta. A delightfully attractive beach; quieter than it might be because of its hillside access and limited facilities. For more information, click here.

Gnejna, Malta. An unsophisticated beach for undemanding people, in a charming location outside Mgarr. For more information, click here.

Ramla Bay, Gozo. This is the smaller island’s great sandy stretch, with stunning red sand. Ideal for picnics. For more information, click here.

San Blas, Gozo. Tiny cove with difficult access, signposted on road from Nadur. No facilities, so take all your needs. For more information, click here.

Blue Lagoon, Comino. The turquoise bay draws boats of every shape and size to gather in its idyllic but stark surroundings. For more information, click here.

Hikers in Gozo-.

Malta Tourism Authority

Golden Bay.

Malta Tourism Authority

Best Walks

Buskett Gardens. As Malta’s largest woodland area, this expanse beneath beautiful Verdala Castle is well worth exploring. Look out for indigenous plants and stop to mingle with the cat colony as you return back to base. For more information, click here.

Delimara. This picturesque part of southern Malta is a little hard to get to but well worth the trek. Look out over Marsaxlokk Bay and the historic Delimara Lighthouse (though more industrial sights are sadly common, too). For more information, click here.

Dingli. Head past Rabat to get to one of the most beautiful countryside areas of Malta. The cliffs promise striking views, and you can look across to the uninhabited island of Filfla. For more information, click here.

Golden Bay. The countryside above this stunning stretch of golden sand is positively bursting with local fauna and flora, as well as a number of historical sites. For more information, click here.

Gordan Lighthouse, Gozo. Located close to the pretty village of Ghasri, this is a great place to take in the island’s picturesque natural surroundings and people watch. For more information, click here.

Boats at Marsaxlokk Harbour.

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Interior of St. John’s Co-Cathedral, Valetta.

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The Azure Window natural sea arch, near Dwejra Bay.

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Introduction: Sun, Sea and History

Eclectic Malta, the heart of the Mediterranean, offers a great deal to curious visitors, in spite of its small size.

In the middle of a remarkably clear and unpolluted expanse of blue Mediterranean Sea, some 90km (60 miles) due south of Sicily, the Maltese archipelago consists of three inhabited islands – Malta, Gozo and Comino – and a number of minuscule uninhabited rocks. Malta is the largest of the inhabited islands (yet not much bigger than England’s Isle of Wight), Gozo is half its size and Comino is smaller still. The population is around 420,000, most of whom speak English as well as the native Malti.

A view of Valletta from Manoel Island.

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A fishing boat in the azure waters.

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Malta is shaped like a wedge, sloping from the northwest to the east, with most of the resort developments on the eastern shore, which is indented with harbours and bays, rock beaches and beautiful sheltered coves.

Like all islands subject to the vagaries of modern tourism, Malta throws up sharp contrasts, which are made all the more striking because of the island’s tiny size. Ancient temples – some of the oldest structures on earth – and the massive fortifications and palazzi of the Knights of St John rub shoulders with the increasing sprawl of modern Malta and its tourist infrastructure. Considerable wealth mingles with a simple, hard-working rural lifestyle.

Maltese bandsmen.

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The biggest changes have come since the island’s accession to the European Union in 2004. More and more multistoreys shape the skyline, huge infrastructural developments have taken place, and a truly cosmopolitan atmosphere prevails. Visitors to the islands now want for nothing – whether that’s a lively nightlife scene, designer fashion, international cuisine or luxury resorts.

Just across the water, however, Gozo retains much of its unspoilt charm – although developments have occurred here, too. If you’re hoping to get away from it all, consider a tranquil long weekend at a traditional farmhouse on the sister island – then head back to Malta for a holiday offering the best of both worlds.

The Maltese People

Warm, passionate and friendly, the Maltese are one of the islands’ greatest assets, but they are fast forgoing traditionalism in favour of a more cosmopolitan approach.

The Maltese can easily be regarded as one of the most resilient peoples in the world – they have remained steadfast, proud and patriotic in the face of an ever-changing array of rulers and strong outside influences.

In spite of being conquered, subjugated and led over the centuries by the powerful nations of the times – and bearing faces that even now reflect some of that past, with features recalling the Romans, Arabs and Phoenicians – the Maltese have doggedly clung to insular individuality. With roots planted firmly in a group of tiny islands, whose total area adds up to no more than 316 sq km (122 sq miles), there is a strong sense of identity born out of a mixture of self-preservation and stubbornness, qualities the Maltese have in abundance. And the same applies to Maltese emigrants settled abroad.

Traders at Marsaxlokk Market.

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Family

Family remains the most important part of life in Malta and, for the majority of the population, getting married and having children remains a priority. Most young men and women will find a spouse from within their village or extended community, and big, lavish wedding ceremonies are the order of the day, flamboyantly celebrating the start of a new couple’s life together.

Regular family events are also the norm. Most Maltese are never happier than when sitting around a large table and enjoying a sumptuous meal with their relatives. The old, young and very young muddle together, relishing each other’s company and sharing stories. There remains a genuine respect for the family’s elders and their wisdom, and it is still common for the nanna or nannu to reside with the younger generations into their retirement.

Bus driver.

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House-proud

The Maltese are proud of their homes. These are spotlessly clean inside, with gleaming, patterned marble-tiled floors, and everything in its prescribed place. Almost everyone, whatever their social level, maintains a formal sitting room, to be used only when guests are invited to the house. It is here that wealth and social achievement can be demonstrated. Even in the most unsophisticated villages, these rooms will have furniture made to order, sofas and armchairs and wall units to hold whimsical china figurines and framed pictures.

However, most locals still take a disproportionate amount of pride in their homes when compared with their localities. Women can often be seen sweeping dust and dirt out of their homes and into the street, and national campaigns are now in place to encourage locals to take as much pride in their country as they do in their belongings.

A Catholic festa procession in Sliema.

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Politics

Up to the mid-1990s, politics played an important part in daily life. All Maltese were politically aware and were born into the party supported by their parents, an allegiance that normally lasted a lifetime, for better or worse. Businesspeople expected to do better when their side was in power. As the governments changed, so did the people in key positions in the civil service and in government-run organisations. As bureaucratic power changed, so were new ropes oiled. The floating voter status hardly existed.

However, the pattern began to change dramatically from 1995 onwards when it became evident that increasing numbers of youths were more independent from the political influence of their parents and were definitely much less interested in politics and political issues. The zenith of cross-voting was reached in the 2003 general election when thousands of Malta Labour Party (MLP) supporters cast their votes in favour of the pro-EU Nationalist Party, to defy the MLP’s anti full-EU-membership policy, thus assuring Malta of full membership of the European Union.

Home and Away

There is a population of about 420,000 on the Maltese Islands, with an equal number in Australia, Canada, the United Kingdom and the United States of America. These are the emigrants and families of Maltese who set sail for the lands of golden promise in the days of expansive migration at the end of World War II, when hope was offered to poorer communities.

Many, homesick after making their fortunes in a modest manner, return to build modern villas that are named in fond memory of chances given: Villa Wallaby, Melbourne Court, Brentford House, Casa Orlando or, simply, Bondi.

Religion

For many years, the Church played a key role in life, both secular and political, making its views known on all key issues as well as running many of the better schools. In election years, parish priests often exhorted congregations to vote for the Nationalist Party. But, as has happened elsewhere in Europe, the sway of the Church has diminished. The annual parish festa is still the most important event in the calendar, but church attendance, although still proportionately among the highest in Europe, is declining.

Off to the market.

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Brain drain

A welcome benefit of the islands’ accession to the EU was the fact that the Maltese can now work across Europe at will, as well as study more easily at foreign institutions. This exciting development opened doors for many young people, and a good number will now choose to spread their wings overseas. While a great opportunity for Malta’s youth, it has created something of a brain drain for the islands, with many of the most accomplished or promising young people leaving for Britain, Belgium (the seat of the EU, where Maltese is recognised as an official language) or beyond. The government has recently launched a variety of initiatives to encourage career development for young people choosing to stay local, especially in the booming IT industry.

The tourist influence and internationalisation

Although the Church still has a very strong influence on a good portion of the population, parish priests have ceased to function as moral policemen, with the ability to prescribe and enforce standards of conduct within their territory. And the fact that foreign visitors now easily outnumber local people (in 2014 a record 1.7 million tourists visited the islands) has undoubtedly had a greater influence than most Maltese would care to admit on their attitude towards both unorthodox behaviour and established authority.

Young Maltese women at festa time.

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Political Choices

Surprisingly, despite the traditional Maltese passion for politics, there are only two major parties from which to choose – Nationalist or Labour. However, a newer Green party (known as Alternativa) is slowly beginning to make its mark and establish itself as a serious contender. In the past it was automatic for young people simply to vote the way their family did, as most were either staunchly loyal to one party or another following the political upheaval of the 1980s. Today, everyone feels freer to make decisions based on manifestos and politicians’ promises rather than automatically sticking to party colour or family