Berlitz Pocket Guide Italy (Travel Guide eBook)
By Berlitz
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About this ebook
From fantastic Florence and the picture-perfect Tuscan countryside, to the grandeur of Rome, and the elegance of Venice, Italy has much to tempt the visitor. Berlitz Pocket Guide Italy is a concise, full-colour travel guide that combines lively text with vivid photography to highlight the best that the country has to offer.
Inside Italy Pocket Guide:
Where To Go details all the key sights in the country, while handy maps on the cover flaps help you find your way around, and are cross-referenced to the text.
Top 10 Attractions gives a run-down of the best sights to take in on your trip.
Perfect Tour provides an itinerary of the country.
What To Do is a snapshot of ways to spend your spare time, from exploring vineyards, to walking the streets of Venice, or working your way around Rome's stylish bars.
Essential information on Italy's culture, including a brief history of the country.
Eating Out covers the country's best cuisine.
Curated listings of the best hotels and restaurants.
A-Z of all the practical information you'll need.
About Berlitz: Berlitz draws on years of travel and language expertise to bring you a wide range of travel and language products, including travel guides, maps, phrase books, language-learning courses, dictionaries and kids' language products.
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Berlitz Pocket Guide Italy (Travel Guide eBook) - Berlitz
How To Use This E-Book
Getting Around the e-Book
This Pocket Guide e-book is designed to give you inspiration and planning advice for your visit to Italy, and is also the perfect on-the-ground companion for your trip.
The guide begins with our selection of Top 10 Attractions, plus a Perfect Itinerary feature to help you plan unmissable experiences. The Introduction and History chapters paint a vivid cultural portrait of Italy, and the Where to Go chapter gives a complete guide to all the sights worth visiting. You will find ideas for activities in the What to Do section, while the Eating Out chapter describes the local cuisine and gives listings of the best restaurants. The Travel Tips offer practical information to help you plan your trip. Finally, there are carefully selected hotel listings.
In the Table of Contents and throughout this e-book you will see hyperlinked references. Just tap a hyperlink once to skip to the section you would like to read. Practical information and listings are also hyperlinked, so as long as you have an external connection to the internet, you can tap a link to go directly to the website for more information.
Maps
All key attractions and sights in Italy are numbered and cross-referenced to high-quality maps. Wherever you see the reference [map], tap once to go straight to the related map. You can also double-tap any map for a zoom view.
Images
You’ll find lots of beautiful high-resolution images that capture the essence of Italy. Simply double-tap an image to see it in full-screen.
About Berlitz Pocket Guides
The Berlitz story began in 1877 when Maximilian Berlitz devised his revolutionary method of language learning. More than 130 years later, Berlitz is a household name, famed not only for language schools but also as a provider of best-selling language and travel guides.
Our wide-ranging travel products – printed travel guides and phrase books, as well as apps and ebooks – offer all the information you need for a perfect trip, and are regularly updated by our team of expert local authors. Their practical emphasis means they are perfect for use on the ground. Wherever you’re going – whether it’s on a short break, the trip of a lifetime, a cruise or a business trip – we offer the ideal guide for your needs.
Our Berlitz Pocket Guides are the perfect choice if you need reliable, concise information in a handy format. We provide amazing value for money – these guides may be small, but they are packed with information. No wonder they have sold more than 45 million copies worldwide.
© 2017 Apa Digital (CH) AG and Apa Publications (UK) Ltd
Table of Contents
Italy’s Top 10 Attractions
Top Attraction #1
Top Attraction #2
Top Attraction #3
Top Attraction #4
Top Attraction #5
Top Attraction #6
Top Attraction #7
Top Attraction #8
Top Attraction #9
Top Attraction #10
A Perfect Day In Rome
Introduction
A Nation of Actors
The Lay of the Land
A Diverse People
A Brief History
Etruscans and Greeks
The Romans
Christian Beginnings
After the Empire
The Holy Roman Empire
The Middle Ages
The Guelfs and the Ghibellines
Francis of Assisi
The City-States
The High Renaissance
Counter-Reformation
Towards Nationhood
Napoleon’s ‘Liberation’
The Risorgimento
The Modern Era
The Rise of Fascism
Post-War Recovery and the 21st Century
The Rise and Fall of Silvio Berlusconi
Historical Landmarks
Where To Go
Getting Around
Rome and Lazio
Classical Rome
The Roman Forum
The Palatine Hill
The Colosseum
South Towards the Via Appia
Streets and Squares
Piazza di Spagna
Piazza del Popolo
Pincio Gardens and Villa Borghese
Around the Trevi Fountain
Three Churches
Piazza Venezia
The Capitoline Hill
Pantheon and Piazza Navona
Campo de’Fiori and the Jewish Ghetto
Trastevere
The Vatican
St Peter’s
Vatican Treasures
The Sistine Chapel
Excursion to Tivoli
Alban Hills and Castel Gandolfo
Northern Lazio
Tuscany and Umbria
Florence (Firenze)
From the Duomo to Piazza San Marco
The Medici Palace
Fra Angelico Museum
Piazza della Signoria to Piazza Santa Croce
The Uffizi
Northern European Rooms
Santa Croce
The First Town Hall
From the Mercato Nuovo to Santa Maria Novella
South of the Arno
Boboli Gardens
Around Tuscany (Toscana)
Fiesole
Pisa
Lucca
Chianti
San Gimignano
Volterra
Siena
Montepulciano and Monte Argentario
Umbria
Orvieto
Spoleto
Assisi
The Historic Town
Perugia
Gubbio
The Northeast
Venice (Venezia)
Grand Canal (Canal Grande)
Around Piazza San Marco
The Church of Gold
The Doge’s Palace
The Bridge of Sighs and the Prisons
Around the Accademia
Peggy Guggenheim Collection
The Scuole of Venice
Around the Rialto
Santi Giovanni e Paolo
Jewish Ghetto
The Islands
The Veneto: the Venetian Mainland
The Brenta Canal
Padua (Padova)
Vicenza
Verona
The Dolomites
Bolzano (Bozen)
Cortina d’Ampezzo
Emilia-Romagna
Rimini
Ravenna
Bologna
Ferrara
Parma
The Northwest
Milan
Around Castello Sforzesco
The Last Supper
The Brera and Other Museums
Around Lombardy
Pavia
Bergamo
The Lake District
Lake Garda (Lago di Garda)
Lake Como (Lago di Como)
Lake Maggiore
Piedmont (Piemonte)
Turin (Torino)
The Turin Shroud
Alpine Mountains and the Valle d’Aosta
Italian Riviera
Genoa (Genova)
Riviera di Levante
Riviera di Ponente
The South
Naples (Nápoli)
The Port and Spaccanapoli
Santa Chiara
Archaeological Museum
The Capodimonte Museum
Vomero and Posillipo
Campania
Capri
Ischia
Pompeii
Pompeii’s Finest Villas
Vesuvius (Vesuvio)
Herculaneum (Ercolano)
Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast
Ravello
Paestum
Puglia
Gargano Peninsula
Alberobello
Sicily and Sardinia
Sicily (Sicilia)
Palermo
Monreale
Agrigento
Taormina
Syracuse (Siracusa)
Famous Greek Links
Mount Etna
Sardinia (Sardegna)
Cagliari
Costa Smeralda
Alghero
What To Do
Sports
Entertainment
Shopping
Shopping in Rome
Shopping in Florence
Shopping in Venice
Shopping in Milan
Festivals
Eating Out
Where to Eat
What to Eat
Pasta
Main Courses
Desserts
Regional Specialities
In the South
Wines
Reading the Menu
To Help you Order
Menu Reader
A–Z Travel Tips
A
Accommodation (See also Camping, Youth Hostels)
Airports
B
Bicycle Hire
Budgeting for your Trip
C
Camping
Car Hire (See also Driving)
Climate
Clothing
Crime and Safety
D
Driving
Disabled Travellers
E
Electricity
Embassies and Consulates
Emergencies
G
Gay and Lesbian Travellers
Getting to Italy
Guides and Tours
H
Health and Medical Care
Holidays
L
Language
M
Maps
Media
Money
O
Opening Times
P
Police
Post Offices
Public Transport
R
Religion
S
Spas
T
Telephones
Time Zones
Tipping
Toilets
Tourist Information Offices
V
Visas and Entry Requirements
W
Websites and Internet Access
Weights and Measures
Y
Youth and Student Hostels
Italy’s Top 10 Attractions
Top Attraction #1
iStock
Siena
Piazza del Campo is the gorgeous main square of this perfect town. For more information, click here.
Top Attraction #2
Shutterstock
The Lake District
The ravishing lake and mountain scenery is irresistible. For more information, click here.
Top Attraction #3
iStock
The Colosseum, Rome
Dating from AD72, it symbolises the city’s power and eternity. For more information, click here.
Top Attraction #4
Getty Images
Tuscany
Cypresses, sunflowers, hill towns and much more. For more information, click here.
Top Attraction #5
Greg Gladman/Apa Publications
Pompeii
Walk the streets of this beautifully preserved Roman town. For more information, click here.
Top Attraction #6
iStock
Portofino
The jewel of the Italian Riviera. For more information, click here.
Top Attraction #7
iStock
The Grand Canal, Venice
This magical highway winds past waterside palaces to Piazza San Marco. For more information, click here.
Top Attraction #8
Ming Tang-Evans/Apa Publications
The Sistine Chapel, Rome
Michelangelo’s masterful ceiling frescoes in the Vatican are a visual and spiritual feast. For more information, click here.
Top Attraction #9
iStock
The Duomo, Florence
A perfect symbol of the premier city of arts. For more information, click here.
Top Attraction #10
iStock
Greek temples, Paestum
Magnificent legacy of Italy’s Greek colonies. For more information, click here.
A Perfect Day In Rome
9.00am
Breakfast
Start your day in Trastevere at Caffè delle Arance (Piazza Santa Maria 2) where, along with espresso and cornettos, the house speciality is freshly squeezed orange juice (served with ice cubes on the side) and great people-watching right on the piazza.
10.00am
Views from the Janiculum Hill
Take Via Garibaldi to Piazzale Garibaldi at the top of Janiculum Hill for splendid views of the city and the dome of St Peter’s. On your way up, veer off towards San Pietro in Montorio church for a peek at Bramante’s Tempietto.
11.30am
Galleries
Head down through Trastevere’s winding streets towards Piazza Trilussa and the Tiber, checking out the boutiques and galleries.
12.30pm
Across the Tiber
Cross pedestrian Ponte Sisto and go straight up Via Pettinari. Turn left on Via dei Giubbonari for great shopping and stop for lunch or snacks right on Campo de Fiori, where the city’s most picturesque market is still held.
1.30pm
Piazza Navona
Cross busy traffic-filled Corso Vittorio Emanuele and take Corso Rinascimento. To the left is the sprawling Piazza Navona. Check out Bernini’s fountain in the centre and grab a classy, if pricey espresso, or better still, the dark chocolate ice cream tartufo at bar Tre Scalini (www.trescalini.it).
2.15pm
Pantheon
To the right of Corso Rinascimento on the parallel Via Di S. Giovanna D’Arco, you will find the San Luigi dei Francesi church at no. 5. Inside are three of Caravaggio’s most famous paintings, including The Calling of St Matthew. Take Via del Seminario and you will reach the Pantheon.
3.00pm
Spanish Steps and beyond
Walk east along the narrow Via dei Pastini and follow the shopping streets Via del Corso and Via Condotti to Piazza di Spagna. Give your credit cards a break at the Keats-Shelley House at the base of the Spanish Steps, then head down Via del Babuino to the sculptor Canova’s old studio at no.150, which has been transformed into a caffè (www.canovatadolini.com) with marble masterpieces at every corner.
5.30pm
Art in the park
Walk through Villa Borghese Park and check out the Carlo Bilotti Modern Art Collection (http://en.museocarlobilotti.it).
7.30pm
Dinner
Catch bus 61 and get off at the last stop inside the park. Cross under the arch and into Via Veneto. Dine at the excellent restaurant inside the Hotel Majestic for unforgettable traditional Italian cuisine; be sure to book a table on the patio in good weather.
10.30pm
Trendy bar
Walk up the street for fancy drinks at Doney (www.restaurantdoney.com), which is as posh and popular with today’s cool set as it was at the time of la dolce vita.
Introduction
From the Alps down to the southern tip of Sicily, Italy provides the most tangible proof that the world is indeed a wondrous stage. Architects and sculptors treat the myriad parks and gardens as set designs, and nature turns the landscapes – replete with statuesque cypresses, tortuous olive and fig trees, and rows of vineyards – into so many artful backdrops for the daily brio and histrionics of La Vita Italiana.
In the cities, the cathedrals, palazzi, monumental public buildings and open-air piazzas, are planned as if harmonious elements in unrivalled stage sets. Venice’s dazzling basilica, the Doge’s Palace and the 500-year-old Clock Tower, all within the sprawling Piazza San Marco and adjacent Piazzetta, are the focus of the city’s life. The same is true of Rome’s grand squares – Navona, del Popolo and di Spagna, Siena’s unique Campo, and Florence’s elegant Piazza della Signoria. Conceived as a theatre and emphasising the decorative space as much as the buildings surrounding it, the piazza satisfies the Mediterranean desire to conduct life in the open air.
A Nation of Actors
We must not overlook the players. In each town, at that magic moment of the passeggiata at the end of each afternoon, they stroll across the piazza, find themselves a well-placed seat at their favourite caffè, or stand in groups to argue business, politics or football. Their celebrated gift for gesticulation aids the inherent air of drama that reassures Italians of the appreciation of their audience – no people more joyfully live up to their legendary image than the Italians. As Orson Welles put it, all 60-odd million of them are actors, with only a few bad ones, and those, he added most unfairly, are found on the stage and in films.
Watch them at the wheel of a car: long ago, driving became a major opportunity for the Italians to display their dramatic talents. An Italian designer observed that a nation’s cars are like its people: Scandinavian and German models are solid, strong and reliable, built to resist an accident; Italian cars tend to be more fragile, but slick and spirited, built to avoid an accident. They are designed, above all, to indulge the national sense of style. The imaginative flair of a Neapolitan taxi driver zig-zagging out of a traffic jam forces the admiration of any nerve-shattered back-seat passenger.
The world also reveres Italian cuisine. In the simplest trattoria or most elegant of restaurants, the experience often begins before you sit down. Not with the menu, but with the artistically presented display across a long table as you enter: seafood antipasti, stuffed aubergines and courgettes, grilled peppers in red, yellow and green, and whatever bounty that morning’s market yielded.
One of Gucci’s Rome stores
Ming Tang-Evans/Apa Publications
The Lay of the Land
If you take a train the length of the peninsula, Italy offers a constantly changing mosaic of landscapes. In the north, the snow-capped Alps and jagged pink pinnacles of the Dolomites; the gleaming Alpine-backed lakes of Como, Garda and Maggiore; the fertile and industrial plain of the Po, stretching from Turin and Milan across to ancient Verona; the Palladian villa-studded hills of Vicenza, and the romantic canals of Venice.
On the northwest coast, the Italian Riviera curves from Ventimiglia on the French border to La Spezia, with venerable Genoa in the centre. Behind the alternating rocky and sandy coastline, from the marble quarries of Carrara, the mountain chain of the Apennines reaches south into Tuscany. Here you will find the ageless beauties of Florence, Lucca, Pisa and Siena, not to mention the smaller, and perhaps more magical, hillside towns of Montepulciano, San Gimignano and Volterra.
Il mare or la montagna – the Italians’ choice for summer
Neil Buchan-Grant/Apa Publications
Landlocked Umbria’s rich green countryside surrounds a golden triangle of historic cities: the Assisi of St Francis, the noble university hillside town of Perugia and the medieval mountain post of Gubbio. To the east, the grand Byzantine citadel of Ravenna dominates the seaside resorts lining the Adriatic.
The Eternal City, Rome, lies halfway down the west coast. For more than 26 centuries it has witnessed countless declines, falls and rebirths, and today continues to resist the assaults of brutal modernity in its time-locked, colour-rich historical centre.
The exhilarating chaos of Naples commands its magnificent bay, the visible isles of Ischia and Capri, and the ruins of Pompeii in the shadow of Vesuvius, its still active volcano. To the south, the former fishing villages of Sorrento and Positano spill down the craggy cliffs of the serpentine Amalfi coast, justifiably famed as one of the world’s most beautiful drives. On the other side of the peninsula, off the tourist track in the peninsula’s ‘heel’, are the curiously romantic landscapes of Puglia, featuring its centuries-old trulli constructions (for more information, click here) and medieval fortresses of the German emperors.
People vs State
The Italian people have long held a deep mistrust for the State. A popular saying, fatta la legge, trovato l’inganno (a law is passed, a way past is found), has now become a national motto.
Italy’s western approaches are guarded by two of the Mediterranean’s largest islands, Sardinia and Sicily; both rugged, mysterious and steeped in history. Smaller islands with fabled names such as Elba, Lípari and Stromboli, fill in the necklace of floating gems, many reached only by boat, where the lifestyle is often that of the Mediterranean one hundred years ago.
A Diverse People
The Italian people – with Latins and Etruscans mixing over the millennia with Greeks, Lombards, Normans, French and Spaniards – are as fascinatingly diverse as the panoply of landscapes. The country was historically divided into the city-states, duchies, kingdoms and republics of Florence, Naples, Venice, Lombardy, Piedmont and Sicily. Today, each region still sustains a solid and pugnacious local pride. Nurtured within the geographical separations of the Alps, the Po valley and the coasts on either side of the Apennines, it was this very diversity that created the richness of Italian art and its competing regional schools of painting and architecture. Significantly, the move towards national unity in the 19th century coincided with a dramatic artistic decline, from which the country is only now recovering.
Given its comparatively short history as a unified nation, much of Italy’s patriotic sense seems to be most visible in the national football team. After the devastating experience of Mussolini’s Fascism, national government is rarely regarded as an obvious solution to the population’s daily problems. If some form of government proves necessary, Italians prefer the local town hall to the parliament in Rome.
Most Italians are naturally cheerful and friendly towards foreign visitors, reserving their scorn for each other – Venetians and Romans or Milanese and Neapolitans have a strong regional identity and rivalry. They bemoan the EU-imposed automobile licence plates that no longer designate the origin of the driver.
Life on the lakes
iStock
Beyond the country’s regional identifications, Italy remains strongly divided culturally, economically and psychologically between the prosperous, industrial North and the less developed South, or Mezzogiorno (Midday). This division was perpetuated by centuries of feudal rule in ‘The Two Kingdoms’ of Naples and Sicily, while the North, closer to the rest of Europe, developed more progressive forms of economy and government. The division has come almost to the point of regarding the South as Italy’s own Third World, and has only worsened with the recent recession.
However, the warm-hearted, high-spirited Neapolitans in no way feel themselves inferior to the cool, pragmatic ‘managerial’ types of