Frommer's EasyGuide to Germany

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THE BEST OF GERMANY

The word is out and maybe you’ve heard it: Germany is one of Europe’s great travel destinations. Every year, more and more visitors from around the globe are discovering the pleasures to be found in Germany’s cities, towns, and countryside. Tourist numbers have risen steadily in the 25 years since the country’s dramatic reunification in 1989–1990 and show no sign of slowing down.

Germany’s appeal is really no great mystery. Moody forests, jagged Alpine peaks, and miles of neatly tended vineyards are not just scenic but the stuff of legend, places that have inspired fairy tales and where much of Western history has been played out. The Germans more than anyone appreciate the soothing tonic of a hike in the Black Forest or a stroll on North Sea dunes, and just seeing these storied lands from a train window can be good for the soul. The cities are treasure-troves not just of great art and history but of culture, sophisticated lifestyles, and, from ever-changing Berlin to old-world Baden-Baden, cutting-edge architecture. Food—well, don’t write off the cuisine as just a lot of heaping plates of wurst and sauerkraut and schnitzel with noodles. For one thing, these traditional dishes are delicious, and one of the pleasures of traveling in Germany is discovering time-honored regional favorites.

So, let’s look a little more deeply into why your travels in Germany will be filled with pleasures that go way beyond the spectacle of dirndls, lederhosen, Alpine meadows, and half-timbered houses (although the sight of any of these can be a bit of a travel thrill, too).

Ditch Those German Stereotypes

So what about the people? Everyone seems to have an opinion about the German character except for the Germans themselves. The militaristic Nazi past that continues to haunt Germany has given rise to many stereotypes. But if you connect with just one German person on your trip, chances are that all the stereotypes you’ve heard about will crumble to dust. Germany today is the most pacifistic country in Europe, sometimes to the annoyance of its neighbors and allies. Overall, it has one of the world’s highest levels of educational attainment and technological achievement. Germany never got caught up in the real-estate bubble that sent so many countries freefalling into recession, and its unemployment rate is about 5 percent, the lowest in the European Union. The Germans have their rules and ways of doing things, which sometimes seem stiff and bureaucratic, but clearly they are doing something right.

Many travelers base their notions of national character on their experiences with hotel employees and the waitstaff in restaurants. In that sense, Germany’s hospitality industry has gone through a real sea change in the past few years. Hospitality was never lacking in Germany, but it was sometimes accompanied by a manner that seemed a little less than welcoming. Today you’ll find that Germans have embraced the American model of friendliness and service. What’s also true is that there is a German level of professionalism in all service-related jobs that someone accustomed to the slap-dash and sloppy might find almost bewildering. A waiter in Germany does not behave like your overly familiar best friend, as is so often the case in the U.S. That’s because waiters in Germany are paid a living wage and don’t have to hustle for tips.

A GUIDE TO GERMAN wine

Eat Well

What about the food served in those restaurants? It’s always good. Even a simple wurst, that staple of the German cuisine, is delicious. Why? Because the Germans take their food seriously and pay attention to what they eat. Sausages, by law, can have no filler added to them. Beer, by law, must adhere to strict standards of water and ingredient purity. The same is true of German wine. And the bread—well, even a humble Brötchen, that crusty-on-the-outside and soft-on-the-inside roll that you get for breakfast, is delicious. And the Germans have had the cautious good sense not to embrace genetically modified foods.

Eating local cuisine is part of any travel experience, and in Germany you’ll find many regional variations of traditional German dishes. German cuisine—what you might call traditional home cooking—tends to be hearty and heavy on meat (particularly pork), starch (potatoes), cooked root vegetables, brined leafy vegetables (red cabbage, sauerkraut), and dairy. Fish is always available (herring is a popular delicacy), and menus are always enlivened with seasonal specialties, such Erdbeeren (strawberries), and game. One thing to note is that in beer-hall restaurants, the seating is often communal, so if you are shown to a table where strangers are sitting, take the opportunity to expand your experience of Germany and the Germans.

There are, of course, Michelin-starred restaurants throughout Germany where you can enjoy spectacular meals of a kind that Grandma never cooked, or at least didn’t cook like this, and in cities, all manner of ethnic restaurants reflect Germany’s large immigrant population (roughly 10 percent of its population of 80 million is first- or second-generation). Turkish is the most prominent casual ethnic food (in the form of kabobs), but you’ll also find French, Italian, Chinese, Japanese, Thai, Indian, and Greek restaurants. All this information is meant to reassure you that you’ll eat well in Germany wherever and whatever you eat.

Drink Well

You don’t have to speak German to order a beer. It’s spelled Bier but it’s pronounced beer. And it’s such a vital part of German culture that the right to drink a beer with lunch is written into some labor contracts. The traditional Biergarten (beer garden), with tables set outdoors under trees or trellises, remains an essential part of German culture. A Bräuhaus (broy-house) serves its own brew along with local food.

When you order a beer in Germany, you have many choices. The range of beer varieties includes Altbier, Bockbier, Export, Kölsch, Lager, Malzbier, Märzbier, Pils, Vollbier, and Weizenbier. The ratio of ingredients, brewing temperature and technique, alcoholic content, aging time, color, and taste all contribute to a German beer’s unique qualities. A German law adopted in 1516 dictates that German beer may contain no ingredients other than hops, malt (barley), yeast, and water.

Dark and sweet Malzbier (maltz-beer; malt beer) contains hardly any alcohol. Vollbier (fole-beer, or standard beer) has 4 percent alcohol, Export has 5 percent, and Bockbier has 6 percent. Pils, or Pilsener, beers are light and contain more hops. Weizenbier (vi-tsen-beer), made from wheat, is a Bavarian white beer. Märzbier (maertz-beer), or March beer, is dark and strong. The most popular beer in Germany is Pils, followed by Export.

To order a beer, decide whether you want a dunkles Bier (dune-kles beer; dark beer), brewed with darkly roasted malt fermented for a long period of time, or a helles Bier (hell-less beer; light beer), brewed from malt dried and baked by the local brewery. If you want a large glass, you ask for ein Grosses (ine grow-ses); if you want a small glass, ask for ein Kleines (ine kly-nis), and tell the waiter or tavern keeper whether you want ein Bier vom Fass (fum fahss; from the barrel) or in a Flasche (flah-shuh; bottle). The beer is always served cold, but not too cold, in an appropriate beer glass or mug, with a long-lasting head of white foam. A proper draft beer, according to the Germans, can’t be poured in less than 7 minutes to achieve the proper head.

Sleep Well, Sweat in a Spa

What about German hotels, inns, and hostels? Here, too, there has been a shift, with a greater emphasis on friendliness, service, and comfort.

The German hotel industry uses 300 criteria to rate every hotel in Germany on a one- to five-star system, with one star being the most basic and five stars being awarded to top-of-the-line luxury hotels. (In this guide, we rate hotels with our own one- to three-star rating system that is not to be confused with the German hotel-rating system.) Although room amenities obviously vary according to the price category, you can always be assured of a superclean room. If you want to travel like a German (or like Germans used to travel), look for a pension (pen-see-own), a room in a house or apartment that provides lodgings and breakfast. You can save money in some hotels by getting a room with a shared bathroom in the hallway; never fear, the bathroom will be cleaner than yours at home. Do not expect air-conditioning except at the most expensive hotels—the Germans still believe in having windows that open for fresh air. In more expensive hotels (the type that offer fitness and wellness centers), you’ll nearly always find a sauna.

Spas and saunas are a way of life in Germany—dozens of spa towns, or Kurorte, are scattered around the country, with thermal bath complexes where you can steam, sweat, swim, and relax. Experiencing Germany by spa is wonderful, but do keep in mind that many saunas are clothing-optional and co-ed: The Germans are not prudish when it comes to their bodies. This is part of the communal side of German life, like sharing a table at a restaurant—only, of course, you wouldn’t do that nude.

Get Arty, Get Active

Germany is a country where the arts are part of life. The caliber of museums and the collections they hold can be breathtaking. Germany has a long-established musical tradition (think Bach, Beethoven, and Brahms) and is famed for the excellence of its music performances. So if you enjoy great art and music, you’ll never be lacking for things to see and do in Germany. That goes for every kind of music, including jazz, pop, rap, hip-hop, indie, and every other genre.

A country’s cultural character and heritage are also reflected in its architecture, and Germany is fascinating on that front, too. The country’s visible architectural legacy spans some 1,800 years, from Roman-era walls to Ludwig’s 19th-century fairy-tale castles in Bavaria; and the corporate skyscrapers that define Frankfurt’s skyline. Less grandiosely, you’ll find half-timbered inns, Bavarian chalets, ruined castles, and an imposing Rathaus (town hall) in just about every town or city you visit.

But this architectural heritage can also reflect the ominous side of Germany’s Nazi past: the remains of Albert Speer’s giant Nazi stadium in Nuremberg, the grim prison buildings at Dachau, the ruined Kaiser-Wilhelm Memorial Church in Berlin, and the numerous memorials and documentation centers that serve as reminders of the Holocaust. The Nazis excelled at destruction, but after the war, the Germans excelled at rebuilding—not just new buildings, but exact reproductions of many great palaces and churches. The Frauenkirche in Dresden is perhaps the country’s greatest postwar rebuilding feat.

But maybe you’re less interested in museums, music, and architecture and want to explore the German countryside. Germany has many fabled landscapes. If you’re an active traveler who is interested in hiking, biking, skiing, or swimming, you can head to the Black Forest, the Bavarian Alps, or the Bodensee (Lake Constance).

All the above merely scratches the surface of what makes Germany a superb place to visit. We could also add the seasonal festivals celebrating beer, wine, music, and art. And the shopping, particularly the traditional Christmas markets with their decorated booths and regional craft and food specialties. All these examples help define who the Germans are and what you will find when you visit Germany.

GERMANY’S best AUTHENTIC EXPERIENCES

Exploring the New Berlin: The fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989–90 was an event that transfixed the world and transformed the divided city into a new world capital. Berlin is still knitting itself together, but this huge, rejoined city also happens to be the most exciting city in Europe. The new Berlin is fascinating and inexhaustible, a city that invites exploration on many different fronts. See chapter 4.

Sipping a Beer in a Munich Beer Garden: There’s nothing more enjoyable on a balmy afternoon or evening than sitting under the trees in one of Munich’s leafy beer gardens and trying to lift one of those 1-liter steins to your lips. It’s a way of life and a way to meet Germans on their own turf. See chapter 6.

Wandering Through Munich’s Viktualienmarkt: There are markets and then there are markets like Munich’s Viktualienmarkt, a hive of stalls, food stands, and specialty shops that’s been around for a couple of hundred years. See chapter 6.

Visiting Dachau Concentration Camp Memorial Site: It’s grim, horrifying, and unbearably poignant, but Dachau, near Munich, is also one of the most important Holocaust memorial sites in Germany. A visit gives you insight into a barbaric chapter of history and puts a human face on its victims. Go to Page.

Celebrating Karneval in Cologne: The locals call it Fasteleer or Fastlovend, but it’s Karneval to most Germans, and it’s celebrated in Catholic Cologne the way Mardi Gras is celebrated in New Orleans. Parades, floats, balls, parties, and plenty of food and beer characterize this pre-Lenten celebration that natives call their city’s fifth season. See chapter 9.

Experiencing a German Spa: For a quintessential German experience, visit one of Germany’s spa towns—Baden-Baden, Wiesbaden, and Aachen are among the possibilities—and go through the routine of bathing, steaming, schvitzing, and swimming, all in one enormous complex warmed by thermal waters and dedicated to the goddess Gesund (health). See chapters 8 and 9.

Spending Harvest Time in the German Vineyards: Between late August and mid-October, the vineyards on the banks of the Rhine and Mosel rivers turn gold and russet, and workers gather buckets of grapes from terraced rows of meticulously pruned vines. This is the perfect time to visit charming wine towns, such as Rüdesheim and Bingen on the Rhine and Cochem on the Mosel. Sip the local vintages at a wine tavern and enjoy the scenery. See chapter 9.

Ascending the Zugspitze: The tallest mountain in Germany, soaring 2,960m (9,700 ft.) above sea level, lures view-seekers up its craggy slopes on a thrill ride via cog railway and cable car that gives new meaning to the notion that getting there is half the fun. Views from the top over the undulating Alps will quite literally take your breath away. See chapter 7.

Touring the Romantic Road (Romantische Strasse): This scenic route rambles through much of Bavaria, through an unfolding, travel-poster-worthy panorama of beautiful landscapes interspersed with small medieval cities. To the south, the road rises to the dramatic heights of the Alps and the fantasy castles of the legendary King Ludwig II. See chapter 7.

Pounding the Cobblestones in Heidelberg: This handsome old university town on the Neckar River has enchanted everyone from Goethe to Mark Twain to hordes of modern visitors, and little wonder: A half-ruined castle perched on a wooded hillside overlooks an unspoiled assemblage of medieval and Renaissance landmarks (and no small part of the appeal is that beer flows like water in the historic taverns below). See chapter 8.

GERMANY’S best MUSEUMS

Alte Pinakothek, Munich: This gigantic repository of old-master paintings could easily fill a day (or two, or three) of your time. Works by major European artists from the 14th to 18th centuries form the basis of the collection, with highlights that include a charismatic self-portrait by Albrecht Dürer and canvases by Raphael, Botticelli, Leonardo da Vinci, and Rembrandt. Go to Page.

Altes Museum, Berlin: One of the five museums on Berlin’s Museum Island, this imposing neoclassical edifice houses Berlin’s superlative collections of Greek, Etruscan, and Roman antiquities. Renovated to its former glory, the museum displays the full breadth of artistic expression in these ancient cultures. Go to Page.

Dokumentationszentrum Reichsparteitagsgelände, Nürnberg: Displays in Hitler’s monumental yet uncompleted Congress Hall chronicle the Führer’s rise to power, celebrated during the Nürnberg rallies when hundreds of thousands gathered on the adjacent Zeppelinwiese (Zeppelin Field) to listen to the leader rant at more than 100,000 spectators enthralled by his violent denunciations. Go to Page.

Germanisches Nationalmuseum (Germanic National Museum), Nürnberg: Germany’s largest museum of art and culture spans the millennia to show off paintings, sculptures, crafts, arms and armor, early scientific instruments—if it’s part of Germany’s national heritage, it’s here. Go to Page.

Grunes Gewölbe (Green Vault), Dresden: There are two Green Vaults, old and new, in Dresden’s Residenzschloss, and both display a sumptuous assortment of treasures collected by the electors of Saxony from the 16th to the 18th centuries. Precious metals, stones, porcelain, corals, and ivory were used to create this trove of decorated chests, carvings, jewelry, statuettes, and tableware. Go to Page.

Lenbachhaus, Munich: Completely renovated and reopened in 2013, the 19th-century villa of portrait painter Franz von Lenbach houses a stunning collection of late-19th- and early-20th-century paintings from the Munich-based Blaue Reiter (Blue Rider) group, including works by Kandinsky, Paul Klee, Franz Marc, and Gabriele Münter. Go to Page.

Kunsthalle, Hamburg: In Northern Germany’s leading art museum, Canalettos, Rembrandts, Holbeins, and other old masters share space with modern canvases by Picasso, Warhol, Beuys, Munch, Kandinsky, Klee, and Hockney. Works by contemporary artists and those banned by the Nazis round out this fascinating and sweeping collection. Go to Page.

Mercedes-Benz Museum and Porsche Museum, Stuttgart: Germany’s well-earned rep for precision engineering and luxury auto travel comes to the fore in these two collections that showcase the output of world-famous hometown auto makers. Whether it’s a long, lean Mercedes 500 K convertible or a Porsche 911, the gleaming showpieces turn even nondrivers into car buffs. Go to Page.

Museum Ludwig, Cologne: Created in 1986 to house the modern-art collection of German collector Peter Ludwig, this museum is renowned for having one of the world’s largest collections of the works of Pablo Picasso, but just about every major artist and art movement of the 20th century is represented. Go to Page.

Neues Museum, Berlin: Left in ruins for decades after World War II, the Neues Museum on Museum Island underwent a remarkable restoration and renovation by British architect David Chipperfield and reopened in 2009 to great critical acclaim. The museum houses one of the world’s greatest collections of Egyptian antiquities and includes the celebrated bust of Queen Nefertiti. Go to Page.

Schnütgen Museum, Cologne: In the Middle Ages, Frankish Cologne was the center of a rich artistic tradition of stained-glass, painting and carving—all of which are on display in this small, superlative museum. The surprise here is the depth of expression that medieval artists achieved in their work. Go to Page.

Wallraf-Richartz Museum/Foundation Corboud, Cologne: The oldest museum in Cologne presents one of Germany’s grandest collections of art, covering the 14th to the 19th centuries. The collection of Gothic works, including altarpieces painted by artists of the Cologne School, is one of the finest in Europe, and the galleries are a virtual encyclopedia of art, from Flemish old masters to the French Impressionists. Go to Page.

GERMANY’S best CITIES FOR MUSIC

Berlin: Germany’s capital is home to seven symphony orchestras, including the famed Berlin Philharmonic, and three opera companies—Staatsoper unter den Linden, Deutsche Oper Berlin, and the Komische Oper—that share their stages with resident ballet companies. The magnificent neoclassical Konzerthaus am Gendarmenmarkt presents a year-round roster of concerts. Musically, there is more going on in Berlin than in any other city in Germany. See chapter 4.

Hamburg: This northern metropolis plays host to the Hamburg State Opera, the Hamburg Ballet, and three highly regarded orchestras. See chapter 5.

Munich: The capital of Bavaria is one of the great cultural centers of Germany. The acclaimed Bayerische Staatsoper (Bavarian State Opera) shares the National Theater stage with its ballet company, while the magnificent Munich Philharmonic Orchestra performs in the Gasteig Philharmonic Hall. See chapter 6.

Stuttgart: The Stuttgart Ballet hit international stardom in the 1970s when John Cranko took over the company. Cranko is gone, but the company still performs at the State Theater, and so does the Staatsoper (State Opera). See chapter 8.

Cologne: For a city of its size, Cologne has an amazing array of musical offerings. Major artists appear at Oper Köln (Cologne Opera), the Rhineland’s leading opera house, and two fine orchestras—the Gürzenich Kölner Philharmoniker (Cologne Philharmonic) and the Westdeutscher Rundfunk Orchestra (West German Radio Orchestra)—perform in the Kölner Philharmonie concert hall. The group Musica Antiqua Köln is one of the world’s foremost early-music ensembles. See chapter 9.

Frankfurt: Opera Frankfurt/Ballet Frankfurt gives a big musical boost to Germany’s financial center, as does the Frankfurt Philharmonic. See chapter 9.

GERMANY’S best CASTLES & PALACES

Heidelberg Castle, Heidelberg: This Gothic-Renaissance 16th-century masterpiece was massively expanded as rival rulers competed for control of the Rhineland. The compound never regained its original glory after a 17th-century French attack, and today the ruins brood in dignified severity high above the student revelry and taverns of the folkloric city below. Go to Page.

Hohenschwangau Castle, near Füssen: Watching its bombastic younger brother from the opposite hill, this lesser-known residence built on 12th-century ruins and finished in 1836 merits a visit. King Maximilian II lived here with his family, and the Gothic environs inspired flights of fancy in his son, the young Ludwig II. Go to Page.

Neuschwanstein, near Füssen: Love it or hate it, this fairy-tale castle is nothing less than phenomenonal, the romantic fantasy of Mad King Ludwig II. The fairy-tale allure inspired Walt Disney and attracts millions of visitors, for whom the outstanding mountain scenery alone is worth the trip. Go to Page.

Residenz, Würzburg: One of the most massive baroque palaces in Germany was built between 1720 and 1744 as the official residence of the powerful bishops of Würzburg, combining gardens, a gallery of paintings, frescoes by Tiepolo, and enough decoration to satisfy the most demanding appetite for ornamentation. Go to Page.

Sanssouci, Potsdam: Friedrich the Great’s retreat was called Sanssouci (Without Care), because here he could forget the rigors of court life and exercise his intellect. Germany’s most successful blend of landscape and architecture sits among intricately landscaped gardens adorned with additional buildings. Go to Page.

Schloss Nymphenburg, Munich: The summer palace of the Wittelsbachs, Bavaria’s ruling family, was constructed between 1664 and 1674. It’s fairly modest as palaces go but contains some sumptuously decorated rooms. The surrounding gardens contain a bevy of ornamental buildings, and the former armory displays an extensive collection of carriages and sleighs. Go to Page.

Schloss Linderhof, near Oberammergau: Built in the 1870s as a teenage indulgence by Ludwig II, this whimsically eclectic fantasy was inspired by Italian baroque architecture. In the surrounding park, Moorish pavilions and Mediterranean cascades appear against Alpine vistas in combinations that are as startling as they are charming. Go to Page.

Zwinger, Dresden: This ornate baroque palace, with its galleries and domed pavilions surrounding a central courtyard, was completed in 1719 for Augustus the Strong, elector of Saxony and king of Poland. Salons are still hung with Augustus’s art collections, the most impressive of which is the Gemäldegalerie Alte Meister (Old Masters Gallery) that contains Italian, Flemish, Dutch, and German paintings by Raphael, Van Dyck, Vermeer, Dürer, Rubens, and Rembrandt. Go to Page.

GERMANY’S best CATHEDRALS, CHURCHES & CHAPELS

Dom (Cathedral), Cologne: The largest cathedral in Germany, and one of the largest in the world, Cologne’s crowning glory took more than 600 years to complete and is designated now as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The size and stylistic unity of this Gothic marvel will astonish you. Go to Page.

Dom (Cathedral), Aachen: A building of great historic and architectural significance, Aachen’s cathedral consists of two parts: The Octagon, originally part of the Emperor Charlemagne palace, dates from around 800 and was the first large church to be built in western Europe since the Roman period; and the Gothic choir, where Charlemagne’s remains rest in a golden reliquary. From 936 to 1531, emperors of the Holy Roman Empire were crowned here. Go to Page.

Dom (Cathedral), Mainz: A sandstone structure dating from the 11th century, the Dom in Mainz is the second-most important Catholic cathedral in Germany after Cologne. Now more than 1,000 years old, the interior has Romanesque elements and later additions in the Gothic and baroque styles. Go to Page.

Herrgottskirche (Chapel of Our Lord), Creglingen: Master carver Tilman Riemenschneider created this magnificent altar on which expressive figures catch the light in such a way that they seem animated and the sculpture changes in appearance throughout the day with the shifting sun. Go to Page.

Wieskirche, outside Füssen: One of the world’s most exuberantly decorated buildings sits in a meadow and shimmers with a superabundance of woodcarvings. Go to Page.

GERMANY’S best SPAS

Aachen: For more than 2 millennia, the warm mineral waters that flow from thermal springs below Aachen have been used for health and relaxation. Spend a couple of hours at the Carolus Therme bath complex and you’ll be reinvigorated for the rest of your strenuous sightseeing schedule. Go to Page.

Baden-Baden: There’s no better spa town in Germany, and certainly none more fashionable or famous than this sophisticated retreat in the Black Forest that has hosted royals and commoners alike. For a unique spa experience, shed your duds at the Friedrichsbad and follow the Roman-Irish bathing ritual that takes you through temperature-modulated saunas, steam rooms, and pools, finishing up with a cool-down and a relaxing snooze. Go to Page.

Wiesbaden: One of Germany’s oldest cities, Wiesbaden attracted Roman legions to its hot springs and lures travelers today to its casino, concert halls, and the huge Kaiser Friedrich Therme. Steam, soak, bubble, sweat, and bathe your cares away and then head over to Wiesbaden’s lovely beer garden on the Rhine. Go to Page.

GERMANY’S most romantic & recreational LANDSCAPES

Bavarian Alps: In perhaps the most dramatic of all German landscapes, the country’s highest mountain, the Zugspitze, towers above the Alpine resort town of Garmisch-Partenkirchen. You don’t have to be a sportsperson to ascend to the top on an Alpine adventure via gondola and cog railroad. See chapter 7.

Black Forest (Schwarzwald): Sophisticated health spas and recreational activities abound in the forest-clad mountains of the Black Forest, where you find lakes, hiking trails, and scenic lookouts. See chapter 8.

Bodensee (Lake Constance): This enormous swath of shimmering waters near Germany’s sunny southwestern border suggests the Mediterranean, with semitropical gardens and an almost Italian languor. See chapter 8.

Middle Rhine (Mittelrhein): Cruises down the scenic midsection of the mighty Rhine take you past castle-crowned crags and legendary sites, such as Loreley rock, to charming towns in the Rheingau wine district. See chapter 9.

Mosel Valley: The Mosel Valley between Koblenz and Cochem is a scenic wine region encompassing thousands of acres of terraced and neatly tended vineyards, Roman ruins, medieval castles, and riverside towns with cobbled streets and half-timbered houses. See chapter 9.

Romantic Road (Romantische Strasse): The most romantic byway in Germany passes through small medieval towns set within a gorgeous Bavarian landscape of river valley and mountain meadow before climbing into the Alps to King Ludwig’s fairy-tale castles. See chapter 7.

GERMANY’S best RESTAURANTS

Ana e Bruno, Berlin: For some of the best Italian food outside Italy, head over to this casual yet sophisticated restaurant in Charlottenburg, where Chef Bruno Pellegrini has been perfecting and reinventing traditional Italian recipes for more than 25 years. Go to Page.

Beim Sedlmayr, Munich: Take a seat at one of the communal tables and enjoy hearty, authentic Bavarian cuisine at this long-established institution in Munich’s Altstadt. It’s a favorite of locals—for good reason. Go to Page.

Curry 36, Berlin: Who says a local neighborhood currywurst stand can’t be considered a great restaurant? Berlin’s favorite street food is not haute cuisine, but it sure is good—as the lines here will attest. Go to Page.

Die Quadriga, Berlin: The cooking at this sophisticated dining room in the Brandenburger Hof Hotel is refined and elegant, the service is impeccable, the wine is exquisite, and the overall experience is memorable. Go to Page.

Fischereihafen Restaurant, Altona, near Hamburg: Hamburgers come here for what many claim is the city’s freshest fish and seafood, most of it right from the market stalls. In fact, from a window seat, you can spot the boats that hauled in your sole, eel, turbot, herring, or flounder from the seas that day. Go to Page.

Die Blaue Sau, Rothenburg ob der Tauber: Foodies would find it a crime worthy of detention in the stocks in Rothenburg’s Kriminalmuseum to pass through town without stopping by this grill house for a meat-heavy take on Franconian cuisine. Go to Page.

Früh am Dom, Cologne: Cologne is loaded with tavern-restaurants where patrons wash down big portions of hearty Rhineland fare with rather dainty glasses of Kölsch, Cologne’s delicious beer. Früh, near the cathedral, has been around forever and is still the best spot to sample Kölsch and regional cooking. Go to Page.

Romantik Hotel Zum Ritter St. Georg, Heidelberg: Lovely old dining rooms on the ground floor of a landmark hotel set the gold standard for old-world cooking and service. Even liver dumplings seem fit for a prince when served by a uniformed waiter on starched linens beneath paneled ceilings and frescoes. Go to Page.

Tantris, Munich: When a restaurant receives a Michelin star for something like 25 years, you can safely assume that it’s a great place to eat. Tantris’s Hans Haas is one of Germany’s top chefs, and his restaurant serves the most innovative food in Bavaria. Go to Page.

Tigerpalast Gourmet Restaurant, Frankfurt: Part of a long-running cabaret/revue, the Tigerpalast lets you combine exceptional dining with wonderful entertainment in an environment that you won’t find anywhere else. Go to Page.

Vau, Berlin: Chef Kolja Kleeberg took over Vau in 2002 and brought new prestige—in the form of a Michelin star—to this sleek restaurant in eastern Berlin. The cooking at Vau is refined but not fussy, and a meal here is a quiet, enjoyable event. Go to Page.

Weinhaus Zum Stachel, Würzburg: The oldest (ca. 1413) wine house in a town loaded with them. The food’s good, the portion’s copious, the wine flows, and everyone has a wonderful time. Old-time Germany at its most appealing. Go to Page.

Zur Baumwolle, Nürnberg: Pork roast with dumplings and sauerkraut and other rustic favorites keep a loyal crowd of locals happy; you’ll share tables with them in lamp-lit, wood-beamed cozy surroundings. Go to Page.

GERMANY’S best HOTELS

Bayerischer Hof & Palais Montgelas, Munich: Munich’s oldest and largest hotel was built in the 1840s to house guests of King Ludwig I. You may feel a bit anonymous in the hallways of this enormous five-star labyrinth or want to strew breadcrumbs to find your way back to the elevators, but your room will provide you with luxurious comfort, and the hotel will provide you with a huge rooftop pool, a spa complex, and all the services and amenities you could possibly want—even breadcrumbs, if you request them. Go to Page.

Der Europäische Hof-Hotel Europa, Heidelberg: Gracious, stylish, and one of Germany’s best offers no end of comforts in its enormous, handsomely furnished guest rooms where crystal and marble are standard equipment. Service is attentive but never stuffy, and an indoor rooftop pool rounds off a very long list of amenities. Go to Page.

East, Hamburg: Style has soul in this sophisticated redo of a formidable, red-brick early-20th-century iron foundry, where edgy design elements make rooms as comfortable and functional as they are attractive. A soaring, multilevel Eurasian restaurant is just one of many exciting in-house relaxation spaces. Go to Page.

Excelsior Hotel Ernst, Cologne: That luxurious breakfast buffet you have to pay for in other luxury hotels is complimentary at the Excelsior Hotel Ernst. Cologne’s most convenient luxury hotel has rooms with views of the Gothic spires of Cologne Cathedral, beautiful decor, and staff members who go out of their way to make your stay worth the price. Go to Page.

The George, Hamburg: Here’s proof that accommodations can be urbane and soothing at the same time. One of the city’s most relaxing bar/lounges, a sleek rooftop spa, and a sophisticated library are matched by dark and handsome guest rooms that come with terraces and many other nice perks. Go to Page.

Hotel Am Josephsplatz, Nürnberg: Germany has no shortage of cozy little guesthouses, but it’s especially refreshing to find one in the midst of a busy city. These wood-floored, nicely furnished accommodations are a great base from which to explore the surrounding streets and squares. Go to Page.

Hotel Anno 1216, Lübeck: Staying in this former guildhall, where sleek, contemporary furnishings offset heavy timbers, stuccoed ceilings, frescoes, and other treasures, seems like a real privilege. The magic continues when you step outside onto streets lined with one of Europe’s largest assemblages of landmarks from the Middle Ages. Go to Page.

Hotel Chelsea, Cologne: It’s not grand, it’s not luxurious, and it’s not quite in the center of Cologne, but the rooms have been smartly designed in a modern, minimalist style, staff members are friendly and helpful, and there’s a cozy cafe attached to the hotel. Go to Page.

Louis Hotel, Munich: This chic urban inn with rooms overlooking Munich’s Viktualienmarkt features a wonderful