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    Let's Go Italy: The Student Travel Guide
    Let's Go Italy: The Student Travel Guide
    Let's Go Italy: The Student Travel Guide
    Ebook1,570 pages18 hours

    Let's Go Italy: The Student Travel Guide

    By Harvard Student Agencies, Inc.

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    About this ebook

    Italy is the place for amazing food, the best vino, epic art, unparalleled natural beauties, and some seriously tight leather pants. The Let's Go student researchers endured gallons of gelato, pounds of pizza, miles of museums, countless clubs, and as many ruins as the Romans left behind all to bring travelers the most comprehensive coverage of Italy, with plenty of witty asides. Get ready to experience adventure and la dolce far niente with Let’s Go Italy.
    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherLet's Go
    Release dateDec 28, 2010
    ISBN9781598809084
    Let's Go Italy: The Student Travel Guide

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      Book preview

      Let's Go Italy - Harvard Student Agencies, Inc.

      DISCOVER ITALY

      When To Go
      What To Do

      RENDEZVOUS WITH THE RENAISSANCE

      WHEN THE MOON HITS YOUR EYE...

      ...LIKE A BIG PIZZA PIE

      BEYOND TOURISM

      Suggested Itineraries

      BEST OF ITALY IN 1 MONTH

      SPLENDOR IN THE RUINS

      ON THE WATERFRONT

      How To Use This Book

      CHAPTERS

      LISTINGS

      ICONS

      OTHER USEFUL STUFF

      PRICE DIVERSITY

      MAP LEGEND

      For the home of the papacy, Italy certainly knows how to do sensual pleasures right: stylish Vespas, intoxicating vino, vibrant piazze, and crackling pizzas covered in garden-fresh produce will light up your eyes, ears, nose, and taste buds as you make your way across the Mediterranean’s favorite boot. In a country where la dolce far niente (the sweetness of doing nothing) is a national pastime, you will nonetheless find yourself with a wealth of opportunities to pursue la dolce vita. And as a student traveler, you are uniquely situated to experience Italia in all its ridiculousness and sublimity. Striking out on your own, likely on a budget, you will open yourself up to what someone who stays in the swankiest hotels and eats at all the five-star restaurants will miss: making connections with the people and the way of life in Italy’s many storied cities and towns. Wander your way along the canals in Venice; marvel at the famed mosaics of Ravenna; hang with beach bums in Rimini. Try to dodge the sharp glances of the fashionistas in Milan and discover the moving stories of the flood-ravaged Ligurian Coast as you make your way along the Cinque Terre. Eat pizza in Naples, climb the Duomo in Florence, and explore ruins in Sicily. With its Renaissance art, Roman grandeur, and religious relics, Italy presents curious and intrepid travelers with an experience that is at once cultural, historical, and truly divine.

      when to go

      The sights and beauty of Italy are best enjoyed in the spring or fall, when the tourist hordes of summer and the chilly weather of winter won’t detract from the country’s splendor. But if you can’t figure out a good excuse to spend a semester in Italy and have already booked Cabo for spring break, prepare for crowds, humidity, and summer heat that can climb into the mid-90s in Rome and Florence. There’s a reason most Italians go on vacation in August, so follow their example and find somewhere else to be during this time of year. (Alaska, perhaps?)

      You can expect cooler temperatures during the winter, especially in the north, where ski resorts capitalize on the snowfall. Many sights keep shorter winter hours, and some hotel and restaurant owners leave on vacation during this part of the year. Then again, when the line to enter the Vatican is only 10min. and doesn’t involve heat stroke, you might be glad you chose to endure the minor inconvenience of packing a coat and mittens.

      top five places to be sacrilegious

      5. MILAN’S DUOMO: In a salute to the city’s fashion gods, don a Versace sheath dress and bare your shoulders under the soaring ceiling of Milan’s central basilica.

      4. VENICE: Be mischievous and place a party hat on the head of every winged lion you see on April 25th, the feast of the city’s patron St. Mark (although this activity would be diverting almost any day of the year).

      3. SIENA: Steal away St. Catherine’s crucifix to see if this sacred object will bring your favored steed to victory in the town’s famous Palio.

      2. NAPLES: Pooh-pooh Milanese refinement while toasting this gritty southern city with an ice-cold glass of local favorite limoncello.

      1. VATICAN CITY: Defy the guards of silence in the Sistine Chapel and whisper sweet nothings into the ear of your travel companion while pondering the fate depicted for you in Michelangelo’s Last Judgment.

      what to do

      RENDEZVOUS WITH THE RENAISSANCE

      Leonardo, Donatello, Raphael, and Michelangelo weren’t just Ninja Turtles, and Italy isn’t just pizza, wine, and ancient ruins. The country contains a startling percentage of the western hemisphere’s must-see works of art, and the aforementioned turtles’ namesakes helped usher in the humanistic spirit that defined the Renaissance. They stretched the bounds of human expression to what we as a species were capable of doing, and the sense of excitement that radiates from their work is still contagious today. Sure, Florence can start to feel like the Medici’s giant Renaissance storage facility, but when it seems as if you just can’t handle one more Madonna and Child, take a minute to dig a little deeper into what makes these artistic wonders so special.

      •  UFFIZI GALLERY: This is where you’ll find Botticelli’s biggies: Birth of Venus, Allegory of Spring, Adoration of the Magi, and Slander. Even if you don’t get why these are touchstones of art history, you’ve got to admit that Venus is pretty damn sexy. (Florence; click here.)

      •  VATICAN MUSEUMS: Here they are: all the goodies the Catholic Church hauled in for itself during its succession of the Roman Empire as the arbiter of culture in the Western world. Resist the urge to race through these museums in order to reach the Sistine Chapel. (Rome; click here.)

      •  GALLERIA DELL’ACCADEMIA: Even more hot Florentine nudity, this time in male form. Spend some time in this home of Michelangelo’s David and a surprisingly informative musical instruments exhibit. (Florence; click here.)

      •  CHIESA DI SANTA MARIA DELLE GRAZIE AND CENACOLO VINCIANO: Although Leonardo da Vinci’s mesmerizing The Last Supper makes a trip here worth your while, the church itself, with its towering domes and beautiful painted ceilings, is something to marvel at, too. (Milan; click here.)

      •  PALAZZO DUCALE: Get a feel for Venetian-style Renaissance opulence at this complex that once served as residence to the city’s mayor. Don’t miss hometown hero Tintoretto’s Paradise. (Venice; click here.)

      •  GALLERIA BORGHESE: Try not to feel too bad about your contributions to humanity when you find yourself staring awestruck at Bernini’s magnificent Apollo and Daphne, along with three of the sculptor’s other masterpieces that are housed here. (Rome; click here.)

      WHEN THE MOON HITS YOUR EYE...

      ...ditch the travel maps and put on your dancing shoes. While you’ll be able to find an ample supply of clubs, bars, and lounges in Italy’s numerous cities, you’ll also want to take advantage of summer nights, cheap local wine, and picturesque piazze to improvise your own nightlife—a kind that might not fly in the puritanical US of A. Be sure to start your night at an aperitivo happy hour for a dinner of buffet-style antipasti that won’t break the bank. Don’t forget to take in all the sights you’ve visited during the day after the sun sets. Floodlit after dusk, places like Campo de’ Fiori and the Ponte Vecchio become even more romantic when wine and the witching hours bring the spirits of the historic, cobbled streets to life.

      •  LIBRERIA CAFFÉ BOHEMIEN: Sip on one of 47 varieties of wine at this relaxed, intellectual watering hole. (Rome; click here.)

      •  LAS PALMAS: Soak up the block-party feel at this happening bar that fills up a blacktop-like piazza with an ample aperitivo buffet, summer film screenings, and plenty of welcoming conviviality. (Florence; click here.)

      •  CAMPO SAN MARGHERITA: This is the place to go for Venetian nightlife. Start the evening entertainment before sunset at your choice of dance or jazz club, Irish pub, or relaxed bar and lounge. (Venice; click here.)

      •  CARNABY: A three-floor monstrosity that encapsulates all the wonderful, schwasty recklessness for which Rimini is so well-loved. (Rimini; click here.)

      •  L’ELEPHANT: One of the oldest GLBT hangouts in Milan, where every day is pride day. (Milan; click here.)

      •  CIBRÉO TEATRO DEL SALE: With endless plates of food, bottomless wine glasses, and live performances, this unforgettable smorgasbord is a feast for both your stomach and your eyes. (Florence; click here.)

      ...LIKE A BIG PIZZA PIE

      Now that you’re spending all day walking and sightseeing, reward yourself with a taste of Italy’s best cuisine. In Rome, delight in the fresh produce of the fertile Lazio region and home-style cooking that wastes nothing (tripe, anyone?). In Venice, indulge in the fruits of the Adriatic as well as the wild game and mushrooms of the northern Italian mainland. In Florence, revel in Tuscan specialties like panzanella (a summer bread salad) and ribollita (a soup made with seasonal veggies, beans, and bread). On the Amalfi Coast, gobble up unadulterated versions of the recognizable classic Italian dishes that have become staples of the American diet. If you find yourself in Sicily, be sure to stop by a Sicilian pizza joint and browse through some of the region’s famous street markets. Hit up grocers for gourmet picnics, fornaios for sinfully affordable prices, and aperitivo happy hours for assorted antipasti and the house wine. So make like a cow and graze your way through this foodie paradise—you’ll probably wish you had four stomachs, too.

      •  FRENI E FRIZIONI: Stop by this bar for some aperitivo before a night out in P. Trilussa. (Rome; click here).

      •  GAM GAM: Italian kosher food exists, and it will change your life, one matzah ball at a time (Venice; click here).

      •  ANTICA GELATERIA FIORENTINA: Sample off-beat flavors like rosewater, cheesecake, and green tea—no need to limit yourself, as a scoop costs only €1. (Florence, click here).

      •  GINO SORBILLO: Although the jury is still out on whether this place actually invented the calzone (as it claims), its 21 scrumptious varieties of pizza suggest that it just might be capable of such a feat. (Naples; click here).

      •  CANTINA DU SCIACCHETRÀ: Drop in for some refreshment at this wine shop as you hike the Cinque Terre. Take advantage of the free samples and buy a bottle to enjoy on the beach. (Monterosso; click here).

      •  FUFLUNS: Hit up this adorably named Cortona haunt for creative dishes like blueberry pasta. (Cortona; click here).

      student superlatives

      •  MOST PROMISING FIXER-UPPER: All that’s needed is a few tons of marble and roughly 40,000 Christian slaves to bring Rome’s Baths of Diocletian back to their former glory (click here).

      •  MOST LIKELY TO GIVE YOU A NECK CRAMP: Florence’s Baptistery of San Giovanni and its elaborate, mesmerizing ceiling mosaic (click here).

      •  MOST IN NEED OF SOME STRAIGHTENING OUT: Someone really should have a word with the Leaning Tower of Pisa’s parents—that thing’s been out of line for centuries (click here).

      •  MOST BLING: The pope’s crib (a.k.a. Vatican City), where you’ll find Swiss guards donning tricked-out, colorful uniforms and the sickest frescoes ever, yo (click here).

      •  BEST DRESSED: The mannequins in Milan’s designer stores, which seems to think that all the cool kids are sporting €1000 hangbags these days (click here).

      •  CLASS CLOWN: Nothing’s quite as rowdy as a beach party or a night at the discotheques in Rimini (click here).

      •  MOST LIKELY TO EXPAND YOUR WAISTLINE: L’Antica Pizza da Michele, Gino Sorbilla, and Pizzeria di Matteo—Let’s Go’s top picks for pizza in Naples (click here).

      •  MOST LIKELY TO SUCCEED: The enterprising Ple. Michelangelo, which somehow managed to transcend its primary purpose as a parking lot to become a destination for millions of camera-toting tourits in Florence (click here).

      •  BEST PLACE TO GET YOUR AUGUSTUS-GLOOP ON: Indulge your inner, obese German boy at Perugina’s chocolate factory. Just don’t fall into any chocolate rivers (click here).

      •  BEST PLACE TO WALK LIKE A ROMAN: The Appian Way, where you can strut your stuff along the same ground once graced by the likes of Virgil and Spartacus (click here).

      BEYOND TOURISM

      If the thought of exploring a new country amid an ocean of bobbing baseball hats, fanny-packs, and city maps make you a little seasick, we’re here to throw you a life preserver. For a cultural experience that delves deeper than a piece of pizza or a photo-op in front of the Trevi Fountain, travel to Italy as a student, volunteer, or salaried employee. It’s hard to dread the first day of school when a place like Rome is your campus and heaping bowls of pasta al dente and creamy gelato alla fragola make up your meal plan. Those with particular interest in art and architecture, archaeology and ancient civilizations, food and wine, or fashion design will find a wealth of study abroad programs that explore all the rich shades of Italian culture. There’s a little something for everyone: the Indiana Joneses of tomorrow can volunteer in archaeology work camps; resume-padders can consider interning at a Florentine architecture firm; wannabe hippies can check out the World Wide Organization of Organic Farming (WWOOF) to get down and dirty on organic farms; and those with magical, bottomless carpetbags and umbrellas with talking-parrot handles should look into au pairing adorable Italian bambini.

      •  LORENZO DE’ MEDICI: THE ITALIAN INTERNATIONAL INSTITUTE: Study under the patronage of the Medicis in Rome, Venice, Tuscany, or Florence and choose from a catalogue of more than 400 courses. Debauchery not included (click here).

      •  THE INTERNATIONAL KITCHEN: Tap into your inner Mario Batali and discover the secrets of Italian cuisine on a cooking vacation in one of the country’s many regions (click here).

      •  GVI: Learn to speak whale as fluently as Dory while studying marine life in the Ligurian Sea (click here).

      suggested itineraries

      BEST OF ITALY IN 1 MONTH

      From the sophisticated north to the scrappy south, explore all the highlights of this Mediterranean paradise.

      •  RIMINI (1 DAY): Begin your Italian adventure with some fun in the sun in Rimini. Be sure to take advantage of the partying to be had at the city’s many beaches and discotheques.

      •  RAVENNA (1 DAY): Admire Ravenna’s famed mosaics at the Basilica di San Vitale and the Mausoleo di Galla Placidia.

      •  VENICE (3 DAYS): Start in Venice’s most famous square, P. San Marco, and tour its majestic basilica. Duck into the Museo Correr to escape the tourist hordes, then grab lunch and do a little window shopping along Calle Larga XXII Marzo. Hit the Palazzo Ducale for hardcore Venetian history. If you want the full tourist experience, climb the Campanile for a pre-dinner stretch of the legs or shell out the money for a gondola ride to complete day one. Begin your second day at Rialto Bridge; be sure to take in its market scene and consider a stop in the Palazzo Grassi. Continue on to Frari church in San Polo and check out the Tintoretto canvases in the Scuola Grande di San Rocco. After lunch, move on to Dorsoduro, Let’s Go’s favorite Venetian neighborhood. Tour the Peggy Guggenheim Collection, Santa Maria della Salute, and the Accademia. Finish off the day with a vaporetto ride down the Grand Canal. On day three, explore the lagoon by vaporetto, stopping at Lido and Burano. Head to Santa Croce and fill your afternoon with Venice’s Museum of Natural History. Eat an affordable meal in the neighborhood and wander back to see P. San Marco at night.

      •  VERONA (1 DAY): Make a stop here en route to Milan; get your fill of Romeo and Juliet kitsch and catch an opera performance if you’re visiting during the city’s annual festival.

      •  MILAN (3 DAYS): Start out your first day in P. del Duomo, the heart of the city. Tour the square’s namesake structure and the nearby Pinacoteca Ambrosiana, where you can view Raphael’s sketches for his School of Athens. Walk through the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II and stop for lunch on the way to La Scala. Take in the opera house’s museum and the Museo Poldi Pezzoli, then return to P. del Duomo to grab some grub to go at Princi. Day two is all about Castello Sforzesco, where you should spend the morning exploring and be sure to check out the Museum of Ancient Art. Then make your way to the Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Grazi. If you’ve bought a ticket months in advance, have fun viewing Leonardo’s Last Supper. If not, consider joining a tour group that is scheduled to see the painting. Afterward, peruse the Pinacoteca di Brera, the Museo Nazionale della Scienza e della Tecnologia Da Vinci, and the basilica di Sant’Ambrogio. Take the Metro to the Navigli neighborhood for dinner at Big Pizza and dessert at Il Forno dei Navigli, then get ready to party the night away inside this student-friendly bar center. Nurse your hangover in the Giardini Pubblici on day three, devoting some time to the Galleria D’Arte moderna. Move on to the Fashion District, where you should explore the Museo Bagatti Valsecchi before indulging in a little retail therapy (probably at D Magazine Outlet rather than Armani). Consider taking in a show at Piccolo Teatro Nuovo before you leave this stylish city.

      •  TURIN (1 DAY): Don’t miss the Mole Antonelliana, Palazzo dell’Accademia dell Scienze, or Rivetti Piaceri di Cioccolato.

      •  CINQUE TERRE (2 DAYS): Devote your first day in this five-village beach area to a leisurely hike connecting the towns. On day two, linger in your favorite of the hillside towns.

      •  LUCCA (1 DAY): Get ready for some more relaxed sightseeing in this Tuscan escape. Perfect the art of doing nothing as you wander the city’s walls, lounge in its piazza, and soak up the view from its towers. Dine at the only restaurant built into the walls and, if you’re lucky, catch a summer opera or chamber music performance. Drop into the Puccini Opera exhibit the next morning before heading to Pisa.

      •  PISA (1 DAY): You know why you came: to marvel at that famous lopsided tower and pose for a photo-op. Catch the bus to the Marina di Pisa to soak up the sun as well as the aperitivo buffet at Sunset Cafe.

      •  FLORENCE (4 DAYS): Head straight to the Duomo on your first day, taking time to explore the Baptistery of San Giovanni, the Campanile and Brunelleschi’s dome, and the Museo Opera San Maria del Fiore. Spend the afternoon at the Uffizi (reserve in advance) and the Palazzo Vecchio. Begin day two viewing sculptures at the Bargello and Accademia. Get your fill of San Marco in the afternoon by visiting the Museo di San Marco and the Museum of the Opificio Dell Pietre Dure. Day three means more religion, with visits to the Basilica di Santa Croce and the Synagogue of Florence. Wander around P. della Signoria, then turn north to Palazzo Medici Ricardi and the Basilica di San Lorenzo. On day four, cross the river to the Oltrarno neighborhood and spend the day at the Palazzo Pitti and Boboli Gardens. Catch sunset at Ple. Michelangelo before you move south to Rome.

      •  ROME (5 DAYS): Start out strong, hitting the Colosseum, Roman Forum, and Velabrum in the morning, then move on to Trastevere through the Isola Tiberina to Gianicolo Hill and the lovely Chiesa di Santa Maria. End your first day with dinner at one of the neighborhood’s homey trattorias before soaking up its vibrant nightlife. Make Vatican City your destination for day two, giving yourself enough time to thoroughly explore the Musei Vaticani and St. Peter’s Basilica as well as the Sistine Chapel. For a comparatively low-key chaser, head to Castel Sant’Angelo before grabbing dinner. Cool off with some jazz at Fonclea to complete the evening. Begin your third day at the Galleria Borghese (remember to reserve your ticket in advance), eating a picnic brunch in the gardens that surround the museum. Follow V. Veneto to the Capuchin Crypt and P. Barbernini. Spend the rest of the day shopping and eating your way in the area around the Fontana di Trevi, P. di Spagna, and P. del Popolo. Make day four a pilgrimage to Rome’s best churches. Start with San Giovanni in Laterano, San Clemente, Santa Maria Maggiore, and San Pietro in Vincoli. Take a siesta, then head to Centro Storico for San Luigi dei Francesi and the Pantheon, an equally inspiring religious structure. On day five, spend the morning rambling through the Baths of Diocletian, then head to P. del Popolo for lunch and pass the afternoon strolling down V. del Corso, making detours to check out Santa Maria del Popolo church and the Museo dell’Ara Pacis at your leisure. End at Capitoline Hill for one final survey of the eternal city.

      •  NAPLES (3 DAYS): Start day one at the Cappella San Severo to view Giuseppe Sanmartino’s Veiled Christ, then tour Naples’ dead-people-filled bowels. You’ll want to try some of the city’s famed pizza, so hit up Gino Sorbillo for a tasty pie. Escape the sun by exploring Naples’ Museo Archeological Nazionale. Get another taste of the Neapolitan specialty for dinner at Pizzeria Di Matteo, then shake what yo momma gave you at S’Move. Make the trip to Castel Sant’Elmo on your second day, and fill up on some super-cheap eats at Friggitoria Vomero after spending your morning at the museum. Return to central Naples and P. del Plebiscito for an afternoon at the Palazzo Reale. Rest your dogs at a nearby osteria or trattoria and investigate student ticket possibilities at Teatro di San Carlo. On day three, take a day trip to Pompeii, Herculaneum, or both.

      •  AMALFI COAST (3 DAYS): Spend day one recovering from a stretch of hardcore sightseeing while taking in the rays on Sorrento’s beaches. Stay cool with a scoop from Primavera Gelateria. On your second day, check out Marina Grande and the ever-popular Amalfi; if you find the beach here too crowded for your taste, head to the neighboring sands of Atrani. Visit Positano on your third day and hike the Path of the Gods in the morning before heading to the pristine ocean for an afternoon swim.

      •  PALERMO (2 DAYS): Spend your first day exploring; head to the Cattedrale di Monreale, Cappella Palatina, and the ever-creepy Capuchin Catacombs. On your second day, head to the nearby Agrigento and visit its ancient Greek temples.

      SPLENDOR IN THE RUINS

      You have to admit that the remarkably preserved arches, aqueducts, and amphitheaters of antiquity’s sprawling Western empire add a certain something to the Italian landscape. Check out the best Italy has to offer on this tour of the country’s ancient ruins.

      •  ROME (2 DAYS): The idea of visiting Roman ruins in Rome may seem obvious, but that doesn’t mean these sights should be excluded from your itinerary. When in Rome, be sure to visit the Colosseum, the Roman Forum, and the Baths of Diocletian.

      •  NAPLES (1 DAY): As it turns out, pizza may not be the oldest treat that Naples has to offer. Explore a subterranean network of aqueducts originally built by the Greeks and later pimped out under Roman rule.

      •  POMPEII (1 DAY): This petrified city is a marvel for archaeologists and tourists alike, offering valuable and haunting insights into the lives of Roman subjects during the first century CE.

      •  HERCULANEUM (1 DAY): Pompeii’s little sib, this is another surprisingly intact ancient city. Take time to explore the town, which was allegedly founded by Hercules himself.

      •  TAORMINA (1 DAY): Catch a train to Sicily to see the ruins of Il Teatro Antico Di Taormina.

      •  SYRACUSE (1 DAY): Finish your ancient trek with a visit to the Teatro Greco in Syracuse.

      ON THE WATERFRONT

      If you haven’t noticed by now, Italy is a peninsula, which means that the country is endowed with plenty of oceanside oases. Get your fill of rustic villages in the Cinque Terre, stylish urbanity in Venice, Rat Pack resorts in Capri, and beachy bliss on the Amalfi Coast.

      •  SICILY (2 DAYS): While visiting Palermo, take a day to trek out to Cefalu, Sicily’s beachside beauty queen. Spend another day in Taormina, where you can walk on water and traverse the submerged isthmus that connects Isola Beach to the mainland.

      •  NAPLES (2 DAYS): Get a sense for true Neapolitan culture at Spaggia Rotunda Diaz beach and enjoy the seaside views from the city’s medieval Castel dell’Ovo.

      •  ISLE OF CAPRI (1 DAY): Lounge at the Grotta Azzurra, shop until you drop at P. Umberto, gorge on treats as Pasticceria Gelateria San Nicola, and cough up the dough to rub shoulders with the rich and famous at Bye Bye Baby.

      •  AMALFI COAST (3 DAYS): Start out in Sorrento, where you can drink limoncello on the beach before heading out in the evening to join the moonlight gelato-lickers and cocktail-sippers on C. Italia. If you have cash to burn, stop in Amalfi for lively, crowded beaches. Then head to Positano; the bikini was invented here, so rock what you’ve got on the secluded Fornillo beach, whose solitary beauty once drew the likes of John Steinbeck, Jack Kerouac, and Tennessee Williams to the town’s shores.

      •  PISA (1 DAY): Besides the famous tower, Pisa also boasts a funky beach that merits a visit.

      •  CINQUE TERRE (3 DAYS): Take one day to hike the trail that connects the villages; explore each town, and stop in Corniglia for a glass of wine in the afternoon. Spend at least one day at the beach: Monterosso has by far the largest and most touristy spots, with dozens of lounge chair rental places and waterfront cafes. The more adventurous can escape civilization at Guvana Beach, which can be found off the trail; it’s stunning, secluded, and, best of all, clothing-optional.

      •  VENICE (3 DAYS): If you’re lucky, you’ll be in Venice to experience the hedonism of Carnevale, but even if you miss the festivities, there’s no shortage of entertainment to be found. Although there are no beaches in the city proper, P. San Marco and the Grand Canal offer all kinds of watery fun. Give yourself the day to explore the islands of the lagoon, particularly Lido, where you can enjoy free beaches such as Spiagge di Venezia.

      •  RIMINI (2 DAYS): Rimini offers an opportunity to experience Spring Break, Italian-style. Spend a weekend admiring the bronzed bods of the city’s beach bums and hop from discotheque to discotheque to discoteque at night.

      •  ANCONA (1 DAY): If you’re sick of all the sand in your shoes, visit Ancona’s cement beach and soak up some rays along the Adriatic. Hopefully you’ll be ending this trip as bronzed as Apollo himself.

      how to use this book

      CHAPTERS

      In the next few pages, the travel coverage chapters—the meat of any Let’s Go book—begin. First, check out the ancient history, religious overtones, and speeding Vespas of Rome. Next, head north to the most cosmopolitan and classically Western World Italian cities: Milan and Turin. From there, get acquainted with bridges, canals, and a serious lack of street signs in Venice. Following that are three cities full of Shakespearean charm and really good food: Padua, Verona & Bologna. Take a break from the urban jungle in the Cinque Terre, northern Italy’s premier seaside destination. Get acquainted with Michelangelo’s David in Florence, then take in the splendor of the surrounding towns of Tuscany and Umbria. Briefly abandon the Mediterranean for the Adriatic Coast, then return to it in the Bay of Naples. Finally, leave the mainland for the best Italian ruins outside of Rome with a visit to Sicily.

      But that’s not all, folks. We also have a few extra chapters for you to peruse:

      LISTINGS

      Listings—a.k.a. reviews of individual establishments—constitute a majority of Let’s Go coverage. Our Researcher-Writers list establishments in order from best to worst value—not necessarily quality. (Obviously a five-star hotel is nicer than a hostel, but it would probably be ranked lower because it’s not as good a value.) Listings pack in a lot of information, but it’s easy to digest if you know how they’re constructed:

      ESTABLISHMENT NAME

      type of establishment $$$$

      Address

      phone number website

      Editorial review goes here.

      Directions to the establishment.

      Other practical information about the establishment, like age restrictions at a club or whether breakfast is included at a hostel.

      Prices for goods or services.

      Hours or schedules.

      ICONS

      First things first: places and things that we absolutely love, sappily cherish, generally obsess over, and wholeheartedly endorse are denoted by the all-empowering Let’s Go thumbs-up. In addition, the icons scattered at the end of a listing (as you saw in the sample above) can serve as visual cues to help you navigate each listing:

      OTHER USEFUL STUFF

      Area codes for Rome, Venice, and Florence are indicated in the boxes titled Call me! at the beginning of those cities’ respective chapters. For all other cities, the phone code is included next to the city name along with the icon. In order to pack the book with as much information as possible, we have used a few standard abbreviations. Piazza has been abbreviated P.; Piazzale has become Ple.; Via is written as V.; and Viale shows up as Vle.; and Corso is C. in this book. If directions begin with , it indicates a Metro stop. In Venice, directions beginning with V: indicate a vaporetto (water taxi) stop. (Sorry to break it to you, but a city floating on water does not, in fact, have an underground Metro.)

      PRICE DIVERSITY

      A final set of icons corresponds to what we call our price diversity scale, which approximates how much money you can expect to spend at a given establishment. For accommodations, we base our range on the cheapest price for which a single traveler can stay for one night. For food, we estimate the average amount one traveler will spend in one sitting. The table below tells you what you’ll typically find in Rome, Venice, and Florence at the corresponding price range, but keep in mind that no scale can allow for the quirks of all individual establishments.

      MAP LEGEND

      You’ll notice that our maps have a lot of crazy symbols. Here’s how to decode them.

      ROME

      Orientation

      ANCIENT CITY

      CENTRO STORICO

      PIAZZA DI SPAGNA

      JEWISH GHETTO

      VATICAN CITY

      TRASTEVERE

      TERMINI AND SAN LORENZO

      NORTHERN ROME

      TESTACCIO AND OSTIENSE

      SOUTHERN ROME

      Accommodations

      ANCIENT CITY

      CENTRO STORICO

      PIAZZA DI SPAGNA

      VATICAN CITY

      TRASTEVERE

      TERMINI AND SAN LORENZO

      NORTHERN ROME

      TESTACCIO AND OSTIENSE

      Sights

      ANCIENT CITY

      CENTRO STORICO

      PIAZZA DI SPAGNA

      JEWISH GHETTO

      VATICAN CITY

      TRASTEVERE

      TERMINI AND SAN LORENZO

      NORTHERN ROME

      TESTACCIO AND OSTIENSE

      SOUTHERN ROME

      Food

      ANCIENT CITY

      CENTRO STORICO

      PIAZZA DI SPAGNA

      JEWISH GHETTO

      VATICAN CITY

      TRASTEVERE

      TERMINI AND SAN LORENZO

      NORTHERN ROME

      TESTACCIO AND OSTIENSE

      SOUTHERN ROME

      Nightlife

      ANCIENT CITY

      CENTRO STORICO

      PIAZZA DI SPAGNA

      TRASTEVERE

      TERMINI AND SAN LORENZO

      NORTHERN ROME

      TESTACCIO AND OSTIENSE

      Arts And Culture

      JAZZ

      CLASSICAL MUSIC AND OPERA

      ROCK AND POP

      SOCCER

      Shopping

      DEPARTMENT STORES

      OPEN-AIR MARKETS

      BOOKSTORES

      Excursion

      OSTIA

      Essentials

      PRACTICALITIES

      EMERGENCY

      GETTING THERE

      GETTING AROUND

      Rome: the epitome of Italy, and its biggest enigma. It condenses every stereotype that plagues the country into one sprawling metropolis...and then rambles on another few kilometers and centuries to reverse them all. With neighborhoods off the map and streets too small to be mapped, this is a city as expansive as it is walkable, as global as it is local. And here’s the biggest paradox of all: it’s as young as it is old. And that doesn’t mean Rome averages out to some middle-aged soccer mom.

      People come to this city for many reasons: for history, for artistic enlightenment, or to eat so much pasta and pizza that they won’t leave until someone rolls them out. Nowhere else in the world could you view the immaculate ceiling of the Sistine Chapel after exploring the dilapidated remains of ancient settlements and still dance the night away once the sun has set. Rome brings every Italian experience together but remains truly unique, and you can’t expect to conquer it all (Carthage tried with an entire army and failed.) Sometimes, like the speeding Vespas that only stop when you walk in front of them, Rome requires that you stand up to it. Are you ready for the challenge?

      greatest hits

      •  HOLY SEE, HOLY DO. Fed up with Italy? Cross the border into Vatican City, population 900 solemn Catholics, and visit the largest church in the world (click here).

      •  GRECO-ROMAN FAIRYTALES. Women turn into trees and are carried into the underworld in the Galleria Borghese, a temple to the works of Bernini (click here).

      •  GET YOUR TROWELS OUT. The Colosseum is just the beginning of Ancient Rome’s gifts to the modern city (click here).

      •  DEUS EX MACHINA. For an industrial night out, head for drinks at Trastevere’s Freni e Frizioni (click here).

      student life

      It’s not only archaeology students who’ll find something interesting in Rome. For a destination with such a prominent Ancient City, Rome is shockingly young; the 147,000 students of Rome’s Sapienza University form one of Europe’s largest student bodies. Sapienza is based in San Lorenzo a little to the east of Termini Station. By a convenient coincidence, that puts it right next to tourists’ main point of entry and the city’s highest concentration of budget accommodations. If you’re wondering where the young people stay, this area is the answer. In a remarkably unsurprising development, the combination of students and student travelers has transformed Termini into one of the city’s biggest nighttime destinations. Be aware that students aren’t the only people around here after dark, as pickpockets often operate in this area.

      Termini and San Lorenzo are just the beginning for students in this diverse city. The Centro Storico may be full of Roman piazze and grand temples to the dead, but at night the bars magically appear and monuments are transformed into student hubs. After gorging yourself on an aperitivo buffet, go relax on the steps of an ancient church; just because you’re young doesn’t mean you don’t care about history, right? But when the past proves too much, go to Drunken Ship for a return to the trusty beer pong table experience. To find international students, head across the Tiber to Trastevere, home to an American liberal arts college, John Cabot University. This is a favorite haunt of study abroad students, so come here and relax in Cafe Friends anytime between 7am and 2am. The southern neighborhoods of Testaccio and Ostiense are other great options for young people in the Eternal City.

      orientation

      call me!

      The phone code for Rome is 06.

      Rome is easily navigable on foot—every time you think you’re lost, another monument pops up and you’re back on track. The best way to think of Rome is as a body: a few major arteries (some with significant blockage problems) will take you from region to region, while countless capillaries branch off into compact neighborhoods. P. Venezia is not really the heart of Rome, but it’s where the city’s main thoroughfares convene. V. Cavour and V. Nazionale are the legs leading down to Rome’s foot—Termini, the city’s main transportation hub. The arm of the V. dei Fori Imperiali takes you back in time, passing the Roman Forum and the Colosseum. The other arm, the V. del Corso, heads into the very commercial present, as it’s filled with shops and the crowds that go with them. This then becomes the V. Flaminia, which navigates around the Villa Borghese. Rome’s neck is the Centro Storico, a mass of winding streets where navigation by map is much more difficult than navigation by monument. The C. Vittorio Emanuele II is a useful throughway which leads across the Tiber River into Rome’s slightly less crazy head, home to Trastevere and not-technically-part-of-Rome-but-we’re-still-including-it-for-obvious-reasons Vatican City.

      ANCIENT CITY

      With one of the highest camera-to-square-inch-of-sidewalk ratios in Rome, the Ancient City doesn’t exactly feel ancient anymore. This vast stretch of tourist heaven, whose sights are the reason that many people come to Italy, is a stunning mix of old and new—for every ruin you’ll see (and there are plenty), there’s probably a plastic replica to match. The Via dei Fori Imperiali is the main thoroughfare for ruin-seekers, passing the Colosseum and Roman Forum before reaching Piazza Venezia, where the road ends with the classical pastiche that is the Vittorio Emanuele II Monument. Around the P. Venezia, even more Roman ruins await at Via del Teatro di Marcello, although these are less famous (but only moderately less impressive). Via Cavour leads from the Roman Forum to the pleasant Monti area and Esquiline Hill, full of narrow, picturesque streets that aren’t clogged with tourist traps. Perhaps it’s the feeling of time travel as you survey the remains of an extinct civilization (or maybe it’s the mouth-watering aroma of fresh-baked pizza that does it), but tourist travails pale in comparison to the pleasures of the Ancient City.

      CENTRO STORICO

      To the traveler who has paid one too many euro after waiting in one too many 4hr. lines, the Centro Storico offers a reprieve: nearly all of the churches, monuments, and piazze are free of charge, and the only lines you’ll be waiting in are for overpriced gelato. With most of the main attractions clustered on either side of Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, this tangled web of streets is manageable in size, though not the easiest to navigate. Expect to get lost as vie suddenly split into numerous vicoli, so use C. Vittorio Emanuele II as a departure point and the vibrant urban living rooms of Campo dei Fiori and Piazza Navona as your major landmarks. Letting yourself get lost might be the best approach, though: you’ll find yourself effortlessly arriving at unassuming churches and monuments, only to realize they’re famous landmarks. The entire region seems to be in a constant state of entropy, with tourists bumping into each other as they dart from one photo op to another in a part of town that stays high-energy late into the night.

      PIAZZA DI SPAGNA

      Nestled between the Tiber River and the grounds of the Villa Borghese, the area around the P. di Spagna is Rome’s answer to 5th Ave., the Champs-Élysées, and the West End. From the Piazza del Popolo, the neighborhood branches off into three main roads: the quieter Via della Ripetta, the overbearing Via del Corso, and the Via del Babuino. The last of these leads to the Spanish Steps. For the fashion-obsessed, Via dei Condotti is home to the shops of some of the most exclusive Italian designers. Sightseers on a budget will not be disappointed, either, as many landmarks (like the Trevi Fountain) are free to the public. To avoid the capitalist onslaught, take a stroll on the elevated Viale di Trinita dei Monti, which offers the best view of P. di Spagna and its artistic marvels.

      JEWISH GHETTO

      Just across from Trastevere is the small area known as the Jewish Ghetto, the first of its kind in Western Europe. Bordering the Lungotevere dei Cenci is the impressive Great Synagogue, the spiritual and physical center of the area. It’s a small, residential neighborhood that is renowned for delicious Kosher food, especially carciofi alla giudia (insanely delicious fried artichokes) found mainly in the restaurants of the Via del Portico d’Ottavia. Friday evenings and Saturdays are not, of course, the time to visit, as residents will be at home observing the Sabbath. While tiny, the Jewish Ghetto is pretty and peaceful, a welcome break from the many tourists next door in Centro Storico.

      VATICAN CITY

      The people-to-square-foot ratio is significantly cockeyed in this part of the city: the madhouse of tourists in the Vatican contrasts sharply with the empty boulevards in the surrounding region of Prati. That’s actually a good thing—after forging through crowds to pay a visit to the pope, you’ll be able to wander effortlessly down tree-lined streets visited only by dog walkers and the occasional lost tourist looking for a big dome (a.k.a. Saint Peter’s Basilica). If the plastic souvenirs, bright flags, and English menus aren’t enough to indicate which region you’re in, the brick wall that physically separates Vatican City from Prati should give you a clue. On the Prati side, you’ll find surprisingly affordable hotels and casual trattorias scattered among modern, pastel residential buildings. For all this talk about crowds in Vatican City, even when you make your way back toward the pope’s digs, the throng of people is more manageable than what you’ll find in Central Rome. Maybe it’s the gargantuan size of St. Peter’s and its piazza, or perhaps peoples’ religious consciences keeping them away, but somehow the tourist crush is more diluted than you’d expect.

      TRASTEVERE

      Trastevere is to Rome what Brooklyn is to New York: overlooked by tourists, loved by locals, and removed from the metropolitan center while still being in the thick of things. There aren’t any Metro stops nearby, but you can play choose-your-own-adventure by crossing one of the three main bridges into different parts of town. The Ponte Fabricio and the Isola Tiberina open into the quieter, right side of the neighborhood where there are plenty of restaurants and laid-back bars. The Ponte Garibaldi leads into Piazza G. Belli and the less-than-beautiful Viale Trastevere. Finally, the Ponte Sisto brings you right into the Piazza Trilussa and the heart of Trastevere’s extensive nightlife. While you probably won’t end up sleeping here, as there are few budget-friendly accommodations, the excellent bar and club scene and unpretentious, homegrown restaurants make this a good bet for evenings, and daytime strolls provide plenty of picturesque photo ops. If you’ve had enough of monuments and ruins, take a walk in the lush gardens and open spaces of Gianicolo Hill, but be prepared for a steep hike.

      TERMINI AND SAN LORENZO

      Ask people if they saw the Vatican, the Colosseum, or any other number of famous sights on their last trip to Rome, and they’ll most likely answer no to at least one of them; with so much to take in, something’s got to give. It’s ironic, then, that everyone passes through Termini, as mundane and unromantic as it is. It’s the city’s transportation hub—and it’s got the blocks of hostels to prove it. Instead of a scenic vista or renowned Roman ruins, prepare yourself for a stifling stream of merchants, restaurants, dives, and—did we mention?—hostels. Via Giovanni Giolitti, which runs alongside Termini, and the streets surrounding Piazza Indipendenza are lined with budget accommodations. If you haven’t made a reservation, you can probably find a last-minute budget option here, but even those who plan ahead often pick this bustling spot to be their home away from home. With prime access to the Metro, major bus lines, great nightlife (read: international student mania), and even a few sights of its own, no other part of Rome matches Termini’s convenience. Our only advice: try to arrive by daylight. With a backpack or an unwieldy suitcase, and a long plane ride behind you, trekking through the maze of people and advertisements can provide not only a disheartening first impression of Rome, but a somewhat dangerous one as well.

      NORTHERN ROME

      Unlike the city center, Northern Rome offers visitors more contemporary sights (at least in Italian terms) and residential areas. Villas from the 17th and 18th centuries are scattered throughout the area, most notably in the expansive Villa Borghese and the more modest Villa Torlonia. You could easily spend a day wandering these villas, but there are also great museums if you’re into not-ancient art. Practically every piazza and museum features a sculptural or architectural work of the great Gian Lorenzo Bernini; if you’re hoping to find something even more recent, Rome’s modern and contemporary art museums are nearby. The Piazza del Popolo, originally an important entry point into the city, is now at the top of a shopping district and right next to the grounds of the Villa Borghese. To the east, the Porta Pia marks the beginning of the beautiful and primarily residential (or ambassadorial) Via Nomentana. Inexpensive food can be hard to come by, so take advantage of the many open spaces for picnics and leisurely strolls.

      spqr sightings

      Look out for the omnipresent letters SPQR just about everywhere in Rome. The acronym, standing for Senatus Populusque Romanus, (The Senate and People of Rome), dates back to the founding of the Roman Republic. Italian cartoonists have re-outfitted the saying as sono pazzi questi Romani (these Romans are crazy). During WWII, Mussolini emblazoned the acronym on manholes and public buildings in an attempt to promote his dictatorship over a new Roman Empire. The fact that the symbol is written on every sewage drain cover in the city probably says something about the quality of Mussolini’s reign.

      TESTACCIO AND OSTIENSE

      Located south of the Colosseum, Testaccio and Ostiense are left off most tourist itineraries and are literally off Rome’s central map. B toward Piramide leads to Piazzale Ostiense, from which radiate a number of large streets: Via Marmorata crosses the river into Trastevere and Via Ostiense is the area’s main thoroughfare. Composed of newer, residential housing and paved streets, these uncongested neighborhoods let you put away the guidebook for an afternoon (though studies have shown that copies of Let’s Go double their lifespan if exposed to ample sunlight, so consider keeping yours out), but make sure to save energy for the pulsing clubs. They may have long lines and be far from the center of Rome, but they offer some of the best nightlife in the city. You might not come here with high expectations, but the culinary, cultural, and clubbing surprises are sure to charm you.

      SOUTHERN ROME

      Just because it’s off the tourist map doesn’t mean Southern Rome isn’t worth at least a day of exploring without an itinerary. This stretch of the city is home to residential streets, enough churches to convert you to Catholicism, and, yes, more ruins. The churches are along the Via Labicana and near the Piazza di San Giovanni in Laterano, so keep an eye out for towers, nuns, and priests to orient yourself. The Appian Way has enough sights to demand its own day-long visit and is marked at every bend in the road by ruined aqueducts, entrances to catacombs, and fragments of statues. Less touristed than central Rome, this area is a great place to view some amazing Christian monuments without waiting in Vatican-sized lines.

      accommodations

      Everything from cheap hostels to swanky four-star hotels are available in Rome, making the selection process somewhat daunting. Smaller (and often cheaper) pensioni and bed and breakfasts are starting to compete by providing large hotels with amenities like air-conditioning, kitchens, and free Wi-Fi. Even the better hostels seem bent on improving, but you’ll still probably have to sleep in a bunk bed if you choose a dorm. Low season starts around November and lasts until early March, when prices pick up considerably. April through October is considered high season, although prices dip a bit in August. For rentals of one to six months, check out the Porta Portese newspaper (www.portaportese.it), sold at all tabaccherie for €1. Public places like libraries, universities, and even local cafes often post fliers advertising short-term rooms in shared apartments. In terms of convenience, residential feel, and cost, Trastevere, Testaccio and Ostiense, and San Giovanni (south of Termini) are ideal places to find your home-away-from-home. Termini is the best place to find last-minute and conveniently located accommodations, especially for travelers arriving by train. Just be wary of hotel scouts who advertise overpriced rooms late in the evening.

      ANCIENT CITY

      Ancient City is not the cheapest place to plant yourself during a visit to Rome, though if you’re willing to shell out at least €100 a night, you’ll have plenty of four-star options to choose from. A few bed and breakfasts and pensioni are more affordable if you’d rather spend your euro on pictures with the Colosseum’s gladiators.

      CASA SANTA PUDENZIANA

      CONVENT $

      V. Urbana 158

      06 48 80 056 www.santapudenziana.it

      Women who don’t mind a 10:30pm curfew (midnight on Saturday) may find the quiet and spacious grounds of Casa Santa Pudenziana a welcome relief from the more crowded (and pricier) hostels nearby. This convent’s six-bed dorm and few other rooms make for a small community of guests, who often run into each other at meals in the peaceful courtyard. While there are no lockers or keys, don’t fear for the safety of your things, since the staff also act as doorkeepers.

      A: Cavour. From V. Cavour, turn onto V. Urbana.

      Breakfast included. Dinner €10. Women only.

      6-bed dorms €22; singles €40, with bath €50; doubles €52; triples €78. Inquire about discounts for longer stays. Cash only.

      Reception 7am until curfew. Curfew M-F 10:30pm, Sa midnight, Su 10:30pm.

      HOTEL SAN DANIELE BUNDÌ

      HOTEL $$$

      V. Cavour 295

      06 48 75 295 www.hotelsandanielebundi.it

      Neighboring establishments recommend Hotel Bundì for its simple rooms and accommodating staff. Although the hotel is small, its central location, (relatively) reasonable prices, and surprising tranquility make it a good bet.

      A: Colosseum. From V. dei Fori Imperiali, turn right onto V. Cavour. Buzz at the doors and take Scala B to the 3rd fl.

      Breakfast included. All rooms with bath. A/C. Free Wi-Fi.

      Singles €55-65; doubles €75-85.

      Reception until 8pm.

      PENSIONE ROSETTA

      PENSIONE $$$

      V. Cavour 295

      06 47 82 30 69 www.rosettahotel.com

      A friendly staff and clean rooms make Pensione Rosetta a convenient option for those who hope to roll out of bed and check out the Colosseum in their pajamas. Each of Rosetta’s 20 rooms has a private bathroom, TV, and air-conditioning; free Wi-Fi is available in most rooms and public areas. The central courtyard provides a welcome respite from busy V. Cavour.

      A: Colosseum. From V. dei Fori Imperiali, turn right onto V. Cavour. Buzz for entry and take Scala B to the 1st fl.

      Singles €65; doubles €90; triples €105; quads €120.

      CESARE BALBO INN

      HOTEL $$$$

      V. Cesare Balbo 43

      06 98 38 60 81 www.cesarebalboinn.com

      Conveniently located entirely on the first floor, Cesare Balbo Inn is perfect for those too lazy to climb a flight of stairs or walk more than a mile to Rome’s ancient sights. Rooms here are big, colorful, and sunny. Great restaurants and bars on V. dei Serpenti and V. Cavour are just a few streets away. In spite of the hopping places nearby, Cesare Balbo still manages to be a peaceful place.

      A: Cavour. Walk down V. Cavour and turn left onto V. Panisperna, walk 2 blocks, and turn right onto V. Cesare Balbo.

      Doubles €55-99; triples €69-105; quads €90-130.

      Reception 24hr.

      peek-a-boo

      If your mission is to find the greatest views of Rome, you should stop by what is known as the magic keyhole. Journey to the P. dei Cavalieri di Malta and two guards will show you to the Priory of the Knights of Malta. There you’ll find a keyhole. Look through, Mary, and you’ll be sure to find a secret garden. At the end of the pathway you’ll see shrubs perfectly framing St. Peter’s Basilica. The view is spectacular, but don’t try to photograph it; many a Let’s Go Researcher has tried and failed extraordinarily. I guess in this adventure a picture will not last longer.

      CENTRO STORICO

      The Centro Storico is not the cheapest place to stay, but hotels here tend to have more character and better amenities than those found elsewhere. Reserve rooms well in advance, and don’t expect them to be cheap.

      ALBERGO DEL SOLE

      HOTEL $$$$

      V. del Biscione 76

      06 68 80 68 73 www.solealbiscione.it

      With real metal room keys hanging from wall pegs and antique wooden furniture, the Albergo del Sole feels like a hotel from an earlier era. The conveniences are modern, though, and after a long day of sightseeing in the Centro, you’ll appreciate checking your email on the garden terrace or in one of the neatly furnished common areas. While not exactly a bargain, it offers the expected comforts of hotels in this neighborhood, but looks much prettier doing it.

      Exit P. di Fiori onto V. del Biscione.

      Most rooms A/C. Wi-Fi €1.50 per hr.

      Singles €75, with bath €100-130; doubles €100-110/€125-160. Cash only.

      Reception 24hr.

      CITY’S HOUSE B&B

      B&B $$$$

      V. della Maddalena 51

      06 45 43 31 75 www.cityhouserome.com

      The rooms at City’s House are somewhat bigger than others in the area, but the decor is more knock-off Martha Stewart than authentic Roman charm. Prices are a little lower here, though, and the website offers specials for booking online.

      From P. Navona, take V. S. G. d’Arco to the P. Maddalena. Buzz for entry.

      A/C.

      Singles €60-100; doubles €80-150. Cash only.

      ALBERGO POMEZIA

      HOTEL $$$$

      V. dei Chiavari 13

      06 68 61 371 www.hotelpomezia.it

      The rooms are small, which is typical in this jam-packed part of Rome, but free Wi-Fi can at least broaden your digital horizons. As with all of the hotels in the Centro, location is the main draw, so you’ll probably spend most of your time outside of your unremarkable room anyway, rightfully avoiding the cheesy Roman Holiday paraphernalia.

      From Campo dei Fiori, walk down V. dei Giubbonari and turn left onto V. dei Chiavari.

      Free Wi-Fi. All rooms with bath.

      Singles €80-130; doubles €90-150. Weekends tend to be more expensive.

      CASA BANZO

      HOTEL $$$$

      P. del Monte di Pietà 30

      06 68 33 909 www.casabanzo.it

      Frescoed walls, potted plants, and stained-glass windows at the reception desk hint at the beauty of the rooms and mini-apartments in this converted 15th-century palazzo. Some rooms have kitchens and balconies overlooking the central courtyard, while others are so small they fit only a bed and a dresser.

      From Campo dei Fiori, walk down V. dei Giubbonari, turn left onto V. della Pietà, and walk into P. Monte di Pieta. Buzz for entry.

      Breakfast €7. Free Wi-Fi. All rooms with bath.

      Standard rooms €120; apartments €120-180.

      Reception 8:30am-1pm and 4pm-midnight; call about arrival time. Guests get a key to enter.

      PIAZZA DI SPAGNA

      Staying in Piazza di Spagna is a pricey affair, and though you might be getting newer accommodations and slightly better services, you’ll be surrounded by more crowds than in Ancient City or Centro Storico. If your heart is set on staying near the Trevi Fountain, just know that the extra cost might leave you with no coins to throw in it.

      HOTEL PANDA

      HOTEL $$$

      V. della Croce 35

      06 67 80 179 www.hotelpanda.it

      Though there are no panda bears around, you’ll feel as warm and fuzzy as a bamboo-chomping cutie at this small, family-run hotel. Simply decorated rooms come with air-conditioning, Wi-Fi, and TV at a better price than the spiffier hotels down the street. The rooms with shared bathrooms really only have room for the bed and your legs getting out of it, so if you need more space, opt for a bigger room with an ensuite. While by no means a truly cheap option, Panda’s about as close as you’ll get to one in this part of town.

      A: Spagna. From the Spanish Steps, take V. Condotti, turn right onto V. Belsiana and right onto V. della Croce. Hotel Panda is on the 2nd fl.

      Singles €55-68, with bath €65-80; doubles €68-78/85-108; triples €120-140.5% discount for cash payment.

      Reception 24hr.

      OKAPI ROOMS

      HOTEL $$$

      V. della Penna 57

      06 32 60 98 15 www.okapirooms.it

      Owned by the same people who run the Hotel Panda, Okapi is a newer and slightly nicer option. Unfortunately, this also means the prices are higher, but in return you get bigger rooms with ensuite bathrooms on a quiet street near the P. del Popolo. Some rooms have terraces, and common areas on every floor add to the already spacious layout. The owners’ apparent penchant for exotic animals is not, however, reflected in the decor. Instead, rooms are decorated in soft colors with simple prints of Roman sights, so the closest you’ll get to wildlife here is a pigeon on a windowsill.

      A: Flaminio-Piazza del Popolo. From the piazza, veer right to V. Ripetta and take an immediate right onto V. della Penna d’Oca, which becomes V. della Penna.

      A/C. Free Wi-Fi.

      Doubles as singles €65-110; doubles €85-160; triples €110-160.

      Reception 24hr.

      DOMUS JULIA

      HOTEL $$$$

      V. Rasella 32

      06 47 45 765 www.domusjulia.it

      The excited hotel dog greets guests at Domus Julia, a slightly less expensive addition to the Hotel Julia that’s next door. The hotel’s 18th-century building retains its historic look but adds modern comforts like free internet. If you’ve gotten a bit bored of staring at ruins, rent one of the free bikes or hang out in the large breakfast room or bar of the hotel next door.

      A: Barberini. From P. Barberini, take V. del Tritone, turn left onto V. Boccaccio and then left onto V. Rasella.

      Breakfast included. All rooms with bath.

      Singles €70-140; doubles €78-180; triples €89-210.

      Reception 24hr.

      VATICAN CITY

      When it comes to hotels, the area around the Vatican is as overpriced as the pizza and souvenirs. However, the quiet streets closer to the river and Prati offer many affordable options, mainly small hotels in residential buildings. The area is close to the sights and removed from nightlife, so it provides a quiet escape.

      COLORS

      HOTEL, HOSTEL $

      V. Boezio 31

      06 68 74 030 www.colorshotel.com

      There’s no mystery to this hotel-hostel’s name: the walls are brightly painted and adorned with abstract paintings. With common spaces on two floors and spacious terraces for mid-afternoon wine breaks, you’ll be sure to meet fellow travelers, although they might not be as rowdy as the backpackers in other hostels. Free Wi-Fi and air-conditioning in all rooms (even the dorms) give Colors even more of an edge. If you’re traveling in a group, save a few euro by booking a three- to six-bed dorm instead of shelling out the extra cash for doubles.

      prego

      Prego. The word is like pizza: Italians have somehow found a way to top or dress it with anything; to have it in any context, at any time of day; and to make it hot, cold, or even lukewarm to match the occasion. Whatever the situation, it all flies:

      •  PREGO? The first thing you’ll hear as you walk into a pasticceria. Translation: How can I help you? or What do you want? And they expect you to know, immediately. (Standing around asking prices doesn’t fly too well.)

      •  PREGO! A favorite of the Sistine Chapel guards. Amid the clamor of docents shushing people and telling them not to take

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