Let's Go Budget Rome: The Student Travel Guide
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Let's Go Budget Guides are for travelers who want to spend less but have more fun, students with more time than money, and anyone who appreciates a good deal. Let's Go Budget guides are written by Harvard student researchers. And who better than a starving student to figure out how to stretch a budgetand discover what's free and fun along the way?
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Let's Go Budget Rome - Harvard Student Agencies, Inc.
Contents
Discover Rome
Planning Your Trip
Maps
Accommodations
Sights
Food
Nightlife
Arts and Culture
Shopping
Excursions
Essentials
Rome 101
Beyond Tourism
Index
Copyright Page
Quick Reference
Discover Rome
Budget Rome
PANINI FOR PENNIES
BUNKING ON A BUDGET
SIGHTSEEING ON THE CHEAP
What To Do
TO ANTIQUITY AND BEYOND
COCKTAIL TIME
BEYOND TOURISM
Rome: the epitome of Italy, and its biggest enigma. It condenses every stereotype that plagues the country into one sprawling metropolis… and then rambles on another few kilometers and centuries to reverse them all. With neighborhoods off the map and streets too small to be mapped, this is a city as expansive as it is walkable, as global as it is local. And here’s the biggest paradox of all: it’s as young as it is old. And that doesn’t mean Rome averages out to some middle-aged soccer mom.
People come to this city for many reasons: for history, for artistic enlightenment, or to eat so much pasta and pizza that they won’t leave until someone rolls them out. Nowhere else in the world could you view the immaculate ceiling of the Sistine Chapel after exploring the dilapidated remains of ancient settlements, and still dance the night away once the sun has set. Rome brings every Italian experience together but remains truly unique, and you can’t expect to conquer it all (Carthage tried with an entire army and failed.) Sometimes, like the speeding Vespas that only stop when you walk in front of them, Rome requires that you stand up to it. Are you ready for the challenge?
Budget Rome
PANINI FOR PENNIES
If we took a poll asking why travelers head to Rome, the food would probably rival the sights for the top response. Pizzerias, trattorias, and cafes abound here, so it’s no wonder they’ve got low prices to bring in hordes of hungry tourists. Stick to less ostentatious restaurants rather than anyone catering to tourists—if there are no locals to be found, you probably aren’t getting a good deal.
FARINANDO: This affordable pizzeria serves slices straight from the oven.
PASTICCERIA STRABBIONI ROMA: This 1888 cafe has had over a century to perfect its panini and cocktails, but the prices haven’t grown with its popularity.
SIVEN: There may be no seating in this small pizzeria and deli, but the fresh pasta is sold by weight, and pizza is only €1 per etto.
LA CUCCUMA: If you’re looking for a hefty lunch or miss eating vegetables that aren’t on pizza, this bright ristorante will be more than satisfying.
FA BIO: Stop by this affordable organic cafe for a break from the carbohydrates. Sorry, the romance-novel-cover model won’t be joining you.
BUNKING ON A BUDGET
Given the number of tourists who flock to Rome, it’s no surprise the city is filled with a variety of accommodations, including many budget hostels and hotels. If you traveled to Rome on the spur of the moment, head to Termini, which is filled with hostels that almost always have cheap beds available. Booking ahead opens up your options to the entire city, but many still choose Termini as their Roman residence.
ALESSANDRO DOWNTOWN: It’s less rowdy than its other half, Alessandro Palace, but large common space and free weekday pizza make this a great bargain.
COLORS: Air-conditioned dorms makes this a perfect summer stay.
LA CONTRORA HOSTEL: This hostel may soon adopt its Naples sister’s tradition of musical performances, so you’ll get a bed and live entertainment for €30.
CASA SANTA PUDENZIANA: Only women can stay at this convent, but they score free breakfast and dinner and a relaxing escape from the city center.
THE YELLOW: This affordable hostel includes a bar and five floors of dorms, so you can have a night out with your bunkmates without ever leaving the building.
Freebies
SIGHTSEEING ON THE CHEAP
If you’re coming to Rome on a budget, you’re in luck! Although this is the home of some of the most famous buildings and monuments in the world, many of them can be entered free of charge. Oftentimes, however, portions of the sights are free, while you pay extra to enter additional areas. Luckily, with the amount you’re saving, paying a few euro here and there will seem a lot less painful.
SAINT PETER’S BASILICA: You can view the world’s most famous church for free even outside of mass, although attending the service nets you a better seat.
ARCO DI CONSTANTINE: Much freer than other Ancient City sights but just as impressive, this arch has some seriously intricate inscriptions.
APPIAN WAY: You can tackle the entire 16km stretch of this Roman road, or pay to go inside the catacombs, ancient Rome’s burial grounds.
VILLA BORGHESE: If you’re sick of the gray tones of crumbling monuments, visit these gardens for a much needed touch of green.
SANTA MARIA IN TRASTEVERE: Make sure to look up at the remarkable blue-and-gold mosaic in the apse of this church, the first in Rome dedicated to the Virgin Mary.
What To Do
TO ANTIQUITY AND BEYOND
When people think of Rome, they’re instantly transported back to the days of Julius Caesar, chariot racing, and ancient civilizations before they were mere ruins. With recognizable monuments like the Colosseum, the Pantheon, and the Roman Forum, Rome is truly a gateway into the past. But there are also a number of nearby ruins that make excellent excursions from the Eternal City. You can roam free among the ruins of Ostia Antica, while visits to the former metropolises of Pompeii and Herculaneum are more structured—you wouldn’t want to anger Vesuvius again, would you?
COCKTAIL TIME
Roman days may be full of death and destruction (in the best possible way), but after dark, this city is full of life. Rome has numerous bars, enoteche, and clubs, and even roaming the piazze without a destination can lead to a thrilling night out. Testaccio’s Akab and Termini’s Solea Club are two popular choices, and these neighborhoods are virtually overflowing with other venues. If you’re into something more low-key, Libreria Caffè Bohemien is just what it sounds like: a place to get comfy with a book, a glass of wine, and your inner starving artist.
BEYOND TOURISM
There are a million reasons to travel to Rome—famous ruins, tantalizing pasta, happening nightlife—but there’s more to this ancient city than you’ll find on a typical tourist itinerary. Channel your love for the Vatican into theology classes at Pontificia Università Gregoriana, or help save the planet at Aniene Valley. Although finding work in Italy can be tough, you’ll increase your chances by looking for a position teaching English, or becoming an au pair through an organization like Roma Au Pair.
Planning Your Trip
WHEN TO GO
NEIGHBORHOODS
Ancient City
Centro Storico
Piazza di Spagna
Jewish Ghetto
Vatican City
Trastevere
Termini and San Lorenzo
Northern Rome
Testaccio and Ostiense
Southern Rome
SUGGESTED ITINERARIES
Rome is easily navigable on foot—every time you think you’re lost, another monument pops up and you’re back on track. The best way to think of Rome is as a body: a few major arteries (some with significant blockage problems) will take you from region to region, while countless capillaries branch off into compact neighborhoods. P. Venezia is not really the heart of Rome, but it’s where the city’s main thoroughfares convene. V. Cavour and V. Nazionale are the legs leading down to Rome’s foot: Termini, the city’s main transportation hub. The arm of the V. dei Fori Imperiali takes you back in time, passing the Roman Forum and the Colosseum. The other arm, the V. del Corso, heads into the very commercial present, as it’s filled with shops and the crowds that go with them. This then becomes the V. Flaminia, which navigates around the Villa Borghese. Rome’s neck
is the Centro Storico, a mass of winding streets where navigation by map is much more difficult than navigation by monument. The Corso Vittorio Emanuele II is a useful throughway which leads across the Tiber River into Rome’s slightly less crazy head, home to Trastevere and not-technically-part-of-Rome-but-we’re-still-including-it-for-obvious-reasons Vatican City.
Icons
WHEN TO GO
Travelers say that the best time to travel to Rome is during September and October. Although the summers are not completely unbearable, many locals flee the city during August when the temperatures climb from sunny Mediterranean beach
to Damn, why is there no air-conditioning?
However, if you’re more concerned with rainfall than sweatfall, the summer sees very little precipitation, while the winter has many more wet days. Just remember, though, that with colder weather come reduced hours at some of the major sights.
NEIGHBORHOODS
Ancient City
With one of the highest camera-to-square-inch-of-sidewalk ratios in Rome, the Ancient City doesn’t exactly feel ancient.
This vast stretch of tourist heaven, whose sights are the reason that many people come to Italy, is a stunning mix of old and new—for every ruin you’ll see (and there are plenty), there’s probably a plastic replica to match. The Via dei Fori Imperiali is the main thoroughfare for ruin-seekers, passing the Colosseum and Roman Forum before reaching Piazza Venezia, where the road ends with the classical pastiche that is the Vittorio Emanuele II Monument. Around the P. Venezia, even more Roman ruins await at Via del Teatro di Marcello, although these are less famous (but only moderately less impressive). Via Cavour leads from the Roman Forum to the pleasant Monti area and Esquiline Hill, full of narrow, picturesque streets that aren’t clogged with tourist traps. Perhaps it’s the feeling of time travel as you survey the remains of an extinct civilization (or maybe it’s the mouth-watering aroma of fresh-baked pizza that does it), but tourist travails pale in comparison to the pleasures of the Ancient City.
Centro Storico
To the traveler who has paid one too many euro after waiting in one too many 4hr. lines, the Centro Storico offers a reprieve: nearly all of the churches, monuments, and piazze are free of charge, and the only lines you’ll be waiting in are for overpriced gelato. With most of the main attractions clustered on either side of Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, this tangled web of streets is manageable in size, though not the easiest to navigate. Expect to get lost as vie suddenly split into numerous vicoli. Use Corso Vittorio Emanuele II as a departure point and the vibrant urban living rooms of Campo dei Fiori and Piazza Navona as your major landmarks. Letting yourself get lost might be the best approach, though: you’ll find yourself effortlessly arriving at unassuming churches and monuments, only to realize they’re famous landmarks. The entire region seems to be in a constant state of entropy, with tourists bumping into each other as they dart from one photo op to another in a part of town that stays high-energy late into the night.
Piazza di Spagna
Nestled between the Tiber River and the grounds of the Villa Borghese, the area around the P. di Spagna is Rome’s answer to 5th Ave., the Champs-Élysées, and the West End. From the Piazza del Popolo, the neighborhood branches off into three main roads: the quieter Via della Ripetta, the overbearing Via del Corso, and the Via del Babuino. The last of these leads to the Spanish Steps. The fashion-obsessed will love Via dei Condotti, home to the shops of some of the most exclusive Italian designers. Sightseers on a budget will not be disappointed, either, as many landmarks (like the Trevi Fountain) are free to the public. To avoid the capitalist onslaught, take a stroll on the elevated Viale di Trinita dei Monti, which offers the best view of P. di Spagna and its artistic marvels.
Jewish Ghetto
Just across from Trastevere is the small area known as the Jewish Ghetto, the first of its kind in Western Europe. Bordering the Lungotevere dei Cenci is the impressive Great Synagogue, the spiritual and physical center of the area. It’s a small, residential neighborhood that is renowned for delicious Kosher food, especially carciofialla giudia (insanely delicious fried artichokes) found mainly in the restaurants of the Via del Portico d’Ottavia. Friday evenings and Saturdays are not, of course, the times to visit, as residents will be at home observing the Sabbath. The tiny Jewish Ghetto is pretty and peaceful, a welcome break from the many tourists next door in Centro Storico.
Vatican City
The people-to-square-foot ratio is significantly cockeyed in this part of the city: the madhouse of tourists in the Vatican contrasts sharply with the empty boulevards in the surrounding region of Prati. That’s actually a good thing—after forging through crowds to pay a visit to the pope, you’ll be able to wander effortlessly down tree-lined streets visited only by dog walkers and the occasional lost tourist looking for a big dome (a.k.a. Saint Peter’s Basilica). If the plastic souvenirs, bright flags, and English menus aren’t enough to indicate which region you’re in, the brick wall that physically separates Vatican City from Prati should give you a clue. On the Prati side, you’ll find surprisingly affordable hotels and casual trattorias scattered among modern, pastel residential buildings. For all this talk about crowds in Vatican City, even when you make your way back toward the pope’s digs, the throng of people is more manageable than what you’ll find in central Rome. Maybe it’s the gargantuan size of St. Peter’s and its piazza, or perhaps peoples’ religious consciences keeping them away, but somehow the tourist crush is more diluted than you’d expect.
Trastevere
Trastevere is to Rome as Brooklyn is to New York: overlooked by tourists, loved by locals, and removed from the metropolitan center while still being in the thick of things. There aren’t any Metro stops nearby, but you can play choose-your-own-adventure by crossing one of the three main bridges into different parts of town. The Ponte Fabricio and the Isola Tiberina open into the quieter, right side of the neighborhood where there are plenty of restaurants and laid-back bars. The Ponte Garibaldi leads into Piazza G. Belli and the less-than-beautiful Viale Trastevere. Finally, the Ponte Sisto brings you right into the Piazza Trilussa and the heart of Trastevere’s extensive nightlife. While you probably won’t end up sleeping here, as there are few budget-friendly accommodations, the excellent bar and club scene and unpretentious, homegrown restaurants make this a good bet for evenings, and daytime strolls provide plenty of photo ops. If you’ve had enough of monuments and ruins, take a walk in the lush gardens and open spaces of Gianicolo Hill, but be prepared for a steep hike.
Termini and San Lorenzo
Ask people if they saw the Vatican, the Colosseum, or any other number of famous sights on their last trip to Rome, and they’ll most likely answer no to at least one of them; with so much to take in, something’s got to give. It’s ironic, then, that everyone passes through Termini, as mundane and unromantic as it is. It’s the city’s transportation hub—and it’s got the blocks of hostels to prove it. Instead of a scenic vista or renowned Roman ruins, prepare yourself for a stifling stream of merchants, restaurants, dives, and—did we mention?—hostels. Via Giovanni Giolitti, which runs alongside Termini, and the streets surrounding Piazza Indipendenza are lined with budget accommodations. If you haven’t made a reservation, you can probably find a last-minute budget option here, but even those who plan ahead often pick this bustling spot to be their home away from home. With prime access to the Metro, major bus lines, great nightlife (read: international student mania), and even a few sights of its own, no other part of Rome matches Termini’s convenience. Our only advice: try to arrive by daylight. With a backpack or an unwieldy suitcase, and a long plane ride behind you, trekking through the maze of people and advertisements can provide not only a disheartening first impression of Rome, but a somewhat dangerous one as well.
Northern Rome
Unlike the city center, Northern Rome offers visitors more contemporary sights (at least in Italian terms) and residential areas. Villas from the 17th and 18th centuries are scattered throughout the area, most notably the expansive Villa Borghese and the more modest Villa Torlonia. You could easily spend a day wandering these villas, but there are also great museums if you’re into not-ancient art. Practically every piazza and museum features a sculptural or architectural work of the great Gian Lorenzo Bernini; if you’re hoping to find something even more recent, Rome’s modern and contemporary art museums are nearby. The Piazza del Popolo, originally an important entry point into the city, is now at the top of a shopping district and right next to the grounds of the Villa Borghese. To the east, the Porta Pia marks the beginning of the beautiful and primarily residential (or ambassadorial) Via Nomentana. Inexpensive food can be