Let's Go Budget Barcelona: The Student Travel Guide
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Let's Go Budget Guides are for travelers who want to spend less but have more fun, students with more time than money, and anyone who appreciates a good deal. Let's Go Budget guides are written by Harvard student researchers. And who better than a starving student to figure out how to stretch a budgetand discover what's free and fun along the way?
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Let's Go Budget Barcelona - Harvard Student Agencies, Inc.
Contents
Discover Barcelona
Planning Your Trip
Maps
Accommodations
Sights
Food
Nightlife
Arts and Culture
Shopping
Excursions
Essentials
Barcelona 101
Beyond Tourism
Index
Copyright Page
Quick Reference
Discover Barcelona
Budget Barcelona
CHEAP EATS
FREEBIES
BUDGET ACCOMMODATIONS
SIGHTSEEING ON THE CHEAP
What To Do
TONIGHT’S GONNA BE A GOOD NIGHT
PLATJA PLEASE
ROCK CATALÀ
BEYOND TOURISM
STUDENT SUPERLATIVES
Benvolgut a Barcelona! Welcome to a city more exquisite, more idiosyncratic, more bold, and more fun than you ever thought a city could be. There’s a whole lot more to Barcelona than Gaudí’s architecture and the incredible clubs, and Let’s Go will show you the way—at the end of the day, you’ve always got Gaudí and the clubs to fall back on.
You’ll find that the locals consider themselves Catalan first and Spanish a distant second. Barcelona is quite proud of its Catalan culture and language, which you’ll probably hear much more frequently than castellano. Everybody in Catalonia speaks Spanish—they just generally prefer not to—and even if your Spanish-language skills don’t extend beyond hola and cerveza, you’ll get by just fine.
Whether you’re strolling through the broad tree- and mod-ernista-building-lined avenues of l’Eixample by day, bar-hopping beneath the walls of Gothic churches of the Ciutat Vella at night, or napping off that hangover in one of Gràcia’s shady plazas, if you take a second to look around you’ll be mesmerized by the city’s ubiquitous charm. Oh, and did we mention there’s also a beach? Save it for last, because once you head there, you’ll never see anything else.
Budget Barcelona
CHEAP EATS
Touristy restaurants with traditional
fare will tempt you, but resist. When in Barcelona, look for the Catalan option: fideuà unseats paella, cava champagne complements every meal, and crema catalana satisfies any sweet tooth. Plates in hand, ravenous customers at tapas bars help themselves to the toothpick-skewered goodies that line the bars. The bartender calculates the bill by tallying up the toothpicks on the way out, and then it’s on to another bar.
UN LUGAR DE GRACIA: This restaurant stands out for having Gràcia’s best-priced and most ample lunch special.
BAR BITÁCORA: The menú at this popular beachside tapas bar must be one of the cheapest in the city, with the crowds of young beach-goers on the courtyard terrace.
MENDIZABAL: Grab a cheap bocadillo at this colorful foodstand in El Raval and mingle with its young, artsy clientele.
PETRA: A bohemian setting with prices to match.
Freebies
BUDGET ACCOMMODATIONS
Reserve accommodations early: while the city has plenty of cheap options, there may not be vacancies if you roll into town in July without a reservation. Your best options will likely be hostels (usually dormitory-style, sometimes with bunkbeds and often with shared bathrooms) and hostales or pensiónes (more like budget hotels).
MARE DE DÉU DE MONTSERAT YOUTH HOSTEL: Sleep in a modernista building for some of the lowest hostel rates in the city.
HOSTAL MALDÀ: This cheap, quirky hostal will put you right in the thick of Barri Gòtic.
PENSIÓN PALACIO: Inexpensive Pensión Palacio is perfectly located near the hip neighborhood El Born and the beaches of Barceloneta.
ALBERGUE-RESIDENCIA LA CIUTAT: Enjoy the tapas and nightlife of Gràcia with a cheap bed that’s well off the tourists’ beaten path.
HOSTEL SUN & MOON: This hostel is constantly flooded with young travelers looking for cheap beds and complimentary breakfast.
SIGHTSEEING ON THE CHEAP
Walk down any passeig or plaça, and you’re bound to see some cool architecture—and it won’t cost you a euro cent.
PARC GÜELL: Wander this modernista paradise of brightly colored mosaics and fountains designed by Gaudí for free.
AJUNTAMENT DE BARCELONA (CITY HALL): It’s only open Sundays 10am-1:30pm, but once you get in, check out the sculpture from modern Catalan masters on the lower level, and then head upstairs for lavish architecture and vivid stained glass.
CASTLE OF MONTJUÏC: Hike up to Montjuïc and be rewarded with incredible views of the harbor and city as well as a moat-turned-garden—not to mention the fortress itself.
HOSPITAL DE LA SANTA CREU I SANT PAU: The interior courtyard of this Gothic structure now operates as a park, and the building houses a 1.5 million-volume library of the Biblioteca de Catalunya and a small art museum.
ROMAN WALLS: It’s hard not to stumble upon a Roman ruin wandering through Barri Gòtic. Start by walking down C. Tapineria, which has the highest concentration of fourthcentury CE wall remains.
What To Do
TONIGHT’S GONNA BE A GOOD NIGHT
Whether you’re looking to bar-hop, kick back at a jazz club, or throw back some cheap mojitos and get down on the dance floor, Barcelona has a club (or 10) to suit you. Slip into sultry Rouge Café, a red-lit lounge decked out in vintage decor, and order a pretty drink like the melon Absolut Porno, or trek to Tibidabo to find the best view in Barcelona at Mirablau. If it’s throbbing techno you’re after, grab a discount flyer on Las Ramblas and head to Moog. For a more low-key night, join artsy 20-somethings at Mau Mau, the epicenter of Barcelona’s underground scene.
PLATJA PLEASE
The entire strip between Torre San Sebastiá and Parc de Diagonal-Mar is lined with public beaches. Platja Barceloneta has plenty to do (volleyball courts, a gym, ping-pong, etc.), but little room to lay your towel. Or, let it all hang out at Barcelona’s only officially nude beach, Platja Mar Bella. Head to the resort town of Sitges, just 50km from Barcelona, for the popular GLBT Platja de la Bassa Rodona.
ROCK CATALÀ
From the fiercely independent Rock Català to one of Europe’s foremost electronic music festivals, Barcelona takes music seriously. Hit the electronic music festival Sónar, check out local fare at smaller live music venues, or catch the latest indie craze at Sala Apolo.
BEYOND TOURISM
Ready to learn more about Barcelona and give back to the community? Nerd out at the Universidad Autónoma de Barcelona through Lexia Study Abroad or unleash your inner Indiana Jones by volunteering on a dig with the Archaeological Institute of America. For more ways to get involved, check out Beyond Tourism.
Student Superlatives
Planning Your Trip
WHEN TO GO
NEIGHBORHOODS
Barri Gòtic and Las Ramblas
El Born
El Raval
L’Eixample
Barceloneta
Gràcia
Montjuïc and Poble Sec
SUGGESTED ITINERARIES
Cheap Date
Walking Tour: Rich People’s Houses
Three-Day Weekend
Though a large and complex city, Barcelona’s barris (neighborhoods) are fairly well-defined. The Ciutat Vella (old city) is the city’s heart, comprised of El Raval (west of Las Ramblas), Barri Gòtic (between Las Ramblas and Via Laietana), El Born (between Via Laietana and Parc de la Ciutadella), and La Barceloneta (the peninsula south of El Born). Farther down the coast (to the left as you look at a map with the sea at the bottom) from the Ciutat Vella is the park-mountain Montjuïc, and the small neighborhood of Poble Sec between Montjuïc and Avda. Paral lel. Farther inland from the Ciutat Vella is the large, central, rigidly gridded zone of l’Eixample, and still farther away from the sea is Gràcia. The Plaça de Catalunya is one of the city’s most central points, located where Las Ramblas meets the Passeig de Gràcia; it is essentially the meeting point of El Raval, Barri Gòtic, and l’Eixample.
Icons
WHEN TO GO
Barcelona’s Mediterranean climate makes it an excellent destination no matter the season. The tourist season officially runs from mid-June through late August, when the city is filled to capacity with travelers and the weather is at its most spectacular. During high season, the days are warm and sunny (72°F or 22°C with sea breezes). January and December are the coldest months of winter, when sunset will be early and temperatures hover around 50°F (10°C). Those looking for the full Barcelona experience will want to visit during the summer, when warm weather, music and theater festivals, a vibrant street scene, and full-tilt nightlife mayhem draw tourists from all over the world. Just the same, it’s not unusual to visit during the autumn or winter for a quieter experience. Cheaper tickets and comparably good weather prevail throughout thee spring and early autumn. European airline prices spike again around Christmas and New Year’s. Keep in mind that August will be the busiest month for the tourist industry. While locals leave on vacation, French and British visitors arrive in droves, bringing the festive atmosphere of late summer and the biggest crowds of the season.
NEIGHBORHOODS
Barri Gòtic and Las Ramblas
You will get lost in Barri Gòtic. Knowing this, the best way to properly orient yourself in the confusing neighborhood, where streets still follow their medieval routes, is to take a day to learn your way around. Las Ramblas provides the western boundary of the neighborhood, stretching from the waterfront to Plaça de Catalunya. Via Laietana marks the eastern border, running nearly parallel to Las Ramblas. The primary east-west artery running between Las Ramblas and V. Laietana is known as Carrer de Ferran between Las Ramblas and the central Plaça de Sant Jaume, and as Carrer de Jaume I between Pl. Sant Jaume and V. Laietana. Of the many plazas hiding in the Barri Gòtic, Plaça Reial (take the tiny C. de Colom off Las Ramblas) and Plaça de Sant Jaume are the grandest. The neighborhood is better known, though, for its more cramped spaces, like the narrow alleys covered with arches or miniature placetas in the shadows of parish churches. The L3 and L4 Metro lines serve this neighborhood, with Drassanes, Liceu, and Catalunya along Las Ramblas (L3), and Jaume I at the intersection of C. Jaume I and V. Laietana.
El Born
El Born, which makes up the eastern third of the Ciutat Vella, is celebrated for being slightly less touristy than the Barri Gòtic and slightly less prostitute-y than El Raval. The neighborhood is renowned for its confusing medieval streets, whose ancient bends hide fashionable boutiques and restaurants both traditional and modern. The Passeig del Born, the lively hub of this quirky barri, makes for a good bar- and restaurant-lined starting point.
El Raval
There’s no point beating around the bush: El Raval is one of Barcelona’s more dangerous neighborhoods. By no means should you avoid it, just be careful and aware—even during the day—and be prepared to deal with persistent drug dealers and aggressive prostitutes. In particular, avoid Carrer de Sant Ramon. Clearly, El Raval does not lack character, and it is actually one of the city’s most interesting neighborhoods. Everything tends to be significantly less expensive than on the other side of Las Ramblas, and a large student population supports a bevy of quirky restaurants and bars. Areas around the Rambla del Raval and the Carrer de Joaquim Costa hide small unique bars and late-night cafes frequented by Barcelona’s alternative crowd. For daytime shopping, check out Riera Baixa, a street lined entirely with secondhand shops that also hosts a flea market on Saturdays, or the ritzier neighborhood around Carrer del Doctor Dou, Carrer del Pintor Fortuny, and Carrer Elisabets for higher-end (though still reasonably priced) shops.
L’Eixample
In this posh neighborhood (pronounced leh-SHAM-plah), big blocks, wide avenues, and dazzling architecture mean lots of walking and lots of exciting storefronts. Modernista buildings line Passeig de Gràcia (first word pronounced pah-SAYCH), which runs from north to south through the neighborhood’s center ( Diagonal, Passeig de Gràcia, Catalunya), with L’Eixample Dreta encompasses the area to the east around the Sagrada Família, and Eixample Esquerra comprises the area closer to the University, uphill from Plaça de la Universitat. Though the former contains some surprisingly cheap accommodations for those willing to make the hike, the Eixample Esquerra is somewhat more pedestrian-friendly and more interesting to walk around. While this neighborhood is notoriously expensive, there are some cheaper and more interesting options as you get closer to Pl. Universitat. The stretch of Carrer del Consell de Cent west of Pg. de Gràcia boasts vibrant nightlife, where many hetero-friendly
bars, clubs, and hotels give it the nickname Gaixample.
Barceloneta
Barceloneta, the triangular peninsula that juts out into the Mediterranean, is a former mariners’ and fishermen’s neighborhood, built on a sandbank at the beginning of the 18th century to replace the homes destroyed by the construction of the ciutadella. The grid plan, a consequence of Enlightenment city planning, gives the neighborhood’s narrow streets a distinct character, seasoned by the salty sea breezes that whip through the urban canyons. Tourists and locals are drawn to unconventional Barceloneta by the restaurants and views along the Passeig Joan de Borbó, by the renowned beaches on the other side along the Passeig Marítim de la Barceloneta, and by the discotecas at the Port Olímpic.
Gràcia
Gràcia is hard to navigate by Metro. While this may at first seem like a negative, the poor municipal planning is actually a bonus. Filled with artsy locals, quirky shops, and a few lost travelers, Gràcia is a quieter, more out-of-the-way neighborhood, best approached by foot. Diagonal will drop you off at the northern end of the Pg. de Gràcia; follow it across Avda. Diagonal as it becomes Carrer Gran de Gràcia, one of the neighborhood’s main thoroughfares. Fontana lies further up on C. Gran de Gràcia. If you’re heading uphill on C. Gran de Gràcia, any right turn will take you into the charmingly confusing grid of Gràcia’s small streets, of which Carrer de Verdi, running parallel to C. Gran de Gràcia several blocks away, is probably the most scenic. For bustling plaças both day and night, your best bets are Plaça de la Vila de Gràcia (more commonly known as Pl. Rius i Taulet), Plaça del Sol, and Plaça de la Revolució de Setembre de 1868, off of C. de Ros de Olano.
Montjuïc and Poble Sec
Montjuïc, the mountain just down the coast from the old center of Barcelona, is one of the city’s chief cultural centers. Its slopes are home to public parks, some of the city’s best museums, theaters that host everything from classical music to pop, and a kick-ass castle on its peak. Montjuïc (old Catalan for mountain of the Jews,
possibly for the Jewish cemetery once located there) also has some of the most incredible views of the city. Many approach the mountain from the Plaça de Espanya, passing between the two towers to ascend toward the museums and other sights; others take the funicular from Paral lel.
The small neighborhood of Poble Sec (Catalan for dry village
) lies at the foot of Montjuïc, between the mountain and Avinguda del Paral lel. Tree-lined, sloping streets characterize the largely residential neighborhood, with the Plaça del Sortidor as its heart and the pedestrian-friendly, restaurant-lined Carrer de Blai as its commercial artery.
SUGGESTED ITINERARIES
Cheap Date
Barcelona is crawling with couples making out. Here’s how you can be one of them.
1. PARC GÜELL: We’re going to take our cues from L’Auberge Espagnole (2002) here. Wander through Gaudí’s trippy sculptures, fountains, and mosaics, and take a makeout break at the park’s summit, overlooking the city.
2. I’LL BUILD A LITTLE HOUSE: Woo your sweetie with a walk around the famous modernista casas of Gràcia.
3. IKASTOLA: Locals gather at Ikastola (Basque for nursery school,
) to chat, knock a few back, scribble messages on the wall, and pound out notes on the upright piano before heading out for the night. Cuddle up with your date over fresh bocatas (sandwiches) for just €4.50 before bar-hopping your way through Gràcia.
4. EL CHATELET: Candles, tiny hanging paper lamps, and dim but sparkly chandeliers set the mood at this corner bar. The cocktails may be a little pricier, but they’re big and strong.
5. ASTROLABI: Don’t call it a night just yet—head to Astrolabi, where there’s live music at 10pm and no cover.
Walking Tour: Rich People’s Houses
Some of the most impressive examples of turn-of-the-century architecture in Barcelona can be found in the neighborhood of Gràcia. So grab your camera and a sturdy pair of shoes and head to Lesseps. Start with a morning in Parc Güell to make a modernista day of it.
1. CASA VICENS: Built in the 1880s for the wealthy industrialist Manuel Vicens, Casa Vicens is Antoni Gaudí’s first major work. Although the interior is not open to the public, you can still scope the colorful tiles of Gaudí’s Neo-Moorish facade.
2. CASA FUSTER: Head down C. Gran de Gràcia away from Parc Güell to reach Casa Fuster, architect Lluís Domènech i Montaner’s last project in Barcelona, and marvel at the modernista elements in the lobby.
3. CASA COMALAT: Head to Avda. Diagonal to check out architect Salvador Valeri i Pupurull’s melting modernista masterpiece. You’ll recognize Gaudí’s influence in the curving facades, parabolic arches, and ceramic mosaics.
4. PALAU BAR Ó DE QUADRAS: Another modernista masterpiece, Puig i Cadafalch’s Palau Baró de Quadras will delight even non-architecture lovers with the intricate carvings around the windows above the entrance on Avda. Diagonal.
5. CASA DE LES PUNXES: Check out the nationalistic motifs on the facade of this Gothic castle, also by Puig i Cadafalch.
Three-Day Weekend
Only in Barcelona for three days? Pity. But don’t worry: there’s still enough time to hit the major sights and museums, kick it on the dance floor, and then sleep it off on the beach.
Day One
1. LA SAGRADA FAMÍLIA AND LA RUTA DEL MODERNISME: Head out to La Sagrada Família early in the morning to avoid fighting the crowds. Grab some churros y chocolate at one of the nearby cafes. From there, make your way to the Pl. de Catalunya ( Catalunya, L1/3) and take the half-day walking tour through l’Eixample. This will take you past the most important modernista houses, including Casa Milà and La Manzana de la Discòrdia, where you can pick up the Ruta del Modernisme pass that offers discounts on sights all over the city.
2. PARK GÜELL: Catch bus #24 from the Pg. de Gràcia up to your last modernista stop of the day: Park Güell in Gràcia. Wander through the colonnades, park it on the longest and most crooked bench in the world, and snap a photo with the drooling lizard. You may even catch some live music in one of the shady nooks; follow your ears. At the end of the day (and the beginning of a long night), head down to one of l’Eixample’s