The Manufacture of Liquors and Preserves - Translated from the French
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The Manufacture of Liquors and Preserves - Translated from the French - J. de Brevans
THE MANUFACTURE
OF
LIQUORS AND PRESERVES.
TRANSLATED FROM THE FRENCH
OF
J. DE BREVANS.
Chief Chemist of the Municipal Laboratory of Paris.
WITH SIXTY-FIVE ILLUSTRATIONS.
Copyright © 2013 Read Books Ltd.
This book is copyright and may not be reproduced or copied in any way without the express permission of the publisher in writing
British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library
Contents
Cooking with Alcohol
Preface
Translator’s Preface
Part I.–Liquors.
Chapter I.
Chapter II.
Alcohol.
Section I.—Distillation.
Section II.—Purification of Alcohol.
Section III.—Rectification of Alcohol.
Chapter III: Natural Liquors.
Section I.—Brandy from Wine.
Section II.—Fruit Brandies.
Section III.—Rum and Tafia.
Section IV.—Brandy from Grain.
Section V.—The Natural Brandies.
Section VI.—Artificial Brandies.
Part II.—Artificial Liquors.
Chapter I: The Plant of the Distiller.
Chapter II: Raw Materials.
Section I.—Alcohol.
Section II.—Essences.
Table of the Principal Essences.
Section III.—Perfumed Spirits.
Section IV.—Alcoholic Tinctures.
Section V.—Spirits.
Section VI.—Distilled Waters.
Section VII.—Infusions, Decoctions, and Macerations.
Section VIII.—Juices.
Section IX.—Simple Sirups.
Section X.—Compound Sirups.
Chapter III: Liquors by Distillation.
Chapter IV: Liquors Made by Infusion.
Section I.—Ordinary Liquors.
Section II.—Double Liquors.
Section III.—Liquors (Demi-Fines).
Section IV.—Fine Liquors.
Section V.—Superfine Liquors.
Chapter V: Liquors Prepared from Essences.
Section I.—Ordinary Liquors.
Section II.—Fine Liquors.
Section III.—Superfine Liquors.
Chapter VI: Aromatic Wines and Hydromels.
Chapter VII: Medicinal Wines.
Chapter VIII: Punches.
Chapter IX: The Clarification and the Preservation of Liquors.
Section I.—Clarification of Liquors.
Section II.—Preservation of Liquors.
Part III.—Preserves.
Chapter I: Brandied Fruits.
Chapter II: Fruit Preserves.
Chapter III: Preservation of Fruits by the Appert Process.
Part IV.—Analysis and Adulterations.
Chapter I: Analysis of Alcohols and Liquors.
Section I.—Alcohol.
Gay-Lussac’s Tables.
Section II.—Brandy.
Section III.—Sweet Liquors.
Chapter II: Analysis of Sugar and Sirups.
Appendix.
United States Standard Weights and Measures.
Thermometer Scales.
Index.
Cooking with Alcohol
Many people cook with alcohol, for many different reasons – but the main motivation is taste! There are many famous dishes which incorporate alcoholic beverages into the food itself, such as ‘coq au vin’ (chicken, garlic, wine), ‘chicken cacciatore’ (chicken, tomatoes, wine) and ‘boeuf borguignon’ (beef, a wide selection of vegetables, and of course, wine). This is not to suggest however, that wine is the only, or necessarily the best alcoholic drink to cook with. More modern examples are beer grilled chicken and bratwursts boiled in beer. Adding beer, instead of water, to chilli during cooking is also popular. An overnight marinade of chicken, pork or beef in beer and spices is another example.
Specialist cooking wines, liqueurs, vermouths and eaux de vie are widely used by professional chefs to enhance flavour in traditional and modern dishes. These are specially created to be an ingredient in cooking, not a beverage. As well as offering excellent value for money, they have a longer shelf life which avoids wastage. The addition of specialist cooking wines, liqueurs and vermouths adds flavour to finished meat and fish dishes; and desserts benefit from the use of sweet or dry wines. In addition, the use of specialist cooking wine in marinades can tenderise meat and is of particular benefit to game dishes. An important technique to mention, aside from marinating and creating sauces and stews – is Flambé. Here, alcohol, such as brandy, is poured on top of a dish, then ignited to great dramatic effect. Common variations of this flambé tradition are seen in Japanese teppanyaki restaurants, where a spirit is poured onto the griddle and then lit, providing both a dramatic start to the cooking, and a residue on the griddle which indicates to the chef which parts of the griddle are hottest.
There are multitudinous fantastic recipes which use some form of alcohol in sauces, infuses or as the main flavour ingredient. This latter justification is the main reason for its incorporation. The process of fermentation concentrates flavour, adding extra intensity especially to fruit based drinks; cordials, brandies, liqueurs and wines. The addition of alcohol to dishes also causes many foodstuffs to release flavours that would not otherwise be experienced. Beer contains yeast which leavens batters and breads (i.e., causes them to rise, especially through the process of fermentation) – this is why dishes such as ‘beer battered cod’ are so prevalent and popular. Marinades, when they include some alcoholic beverages (in a similar way to citrus) also break down tough fibres in meat and vegetables. These practical elements of cooking with alcohol are widely utilised, for instance, in Zurich, where Fondue originated, wine or kirsch were added to their melted cheeses – because the alcohol content lowered the boiling point of the cheese, thereby preventing curdling.
Other popular alcoholic beverages used for cooking include:
Bourbon – Which gives a slight hint of vanilla, caramel and (dependent on type) charcoal and wood notes to the food. Flavours such as these work incredibly well with both savoury (think charcoal grills and meats) and sweet recipes (ice-creams, apple . . . etc.). Glazed hams are incredibly popular with this flavouring, sometimes including apple cider, Dijon mustard, spices as well as the bourbon.
Champagne – The king of alcohol based cookery; champagne can be used in an enormous array of dishes, much in the same way as wine is. It is also important to note that expensive champagne does not have to be used. It goes well with sumptuous ingredients though; caviar, fruit jellies, vinaigrettes, sorbets and sea food.
Rum – The drink itself is a fermented liquor, originally distilled from sugarcane molasses (a dark, sweet, syrupy by-product made during the extraction of sugars from sugarcane and sugar beets). Consequently, Rum (a much overlooked alcohol in cooking) gives an amazing flavour to a wide range of dishes. Classic desserts include the combination of bananas and rum, as well as truffles, cakes and the ever popular rum and raisin ice-cream.
We hope the reader is inspired by this book to try some cooking with alcohol themselves. Happy reading and safe imbibing!
PREFACE.
A CLEAR and precise manual for the distiller and liquor manufacturer has long been needed in France—a book which by its scope, form and price would be within the reach of all, but nevertheless would be complete enough to give a true picture of the recent discoveries and the true state of the art in this important branch of our national industry. This want has been filled by The Manufacture of Liquors and Preserves.
M. De Brevans, in writing the book, which we have the pleasure of presenting to the public, has accomplished a great service to manufacturers, chemists, etc.
The first part comprises the study of liquors, that is to say, alcohol and natural liquors (brandy, rum, tafia). M. De Brevans says that there is rum which has never seen the Antilles and kirsch to which the cherry is a perfect stranger, both being spirituous mixtures made by mixing various chemicals and pharmaceutical products—an art which our neighbors beyond the Rhine have fully mastered.
In the second part the author studies artificial liquors, some pages being devoted to a description of the laboratory and plant of the distiller, including raw materials, alcohol, essences, spirits, tinctures, distilled waters, juices, sirups, etc., without forgetting the coloring matters.
The third part treats of preserves, including brandied and preserved fruit.
The fourth part deals with the analysis of liquors and their examination for adulterations.
M. De Brevans has limited himself to the study of liquors which can be made openly, and leaves in the shade all the dishonest and dangerous products reprobated both by chemistry and hygiene; but, to compensate for this, he has given us a considerable number of clear formulas, easy of application, which permits the distiller and the liquor manufacturer to make a large variety to satisfy the taste of the consumer.
M. De Brevans has brought to the preparation of this work all the accuracy which I have known him capable of during the seven years that I have been able to appreciate the merits of my young collaborator.
CH. GIRARD,
Director of the Municipal Laboratory of Paris.
Paris, April 25, 1890.
TRANSLATOR’S PREFACE.
THE little work of J. De Brevans is well known in France. The great value of the book consists in the formulas, which are so arranged that, if the manufacturer has no distilling plant, he can still make many of the liquors from the essences. The formulas have been left in the metric, or decimal, system, as this system is gaining ground rapidly and there is every hope of its final adoption by manufacturers as a matter of convenience. The tables in the appendix render changes easy from the metric to the common system, or vice versâ.
THE MANUFACTURE
OF
LIQUORS AND PRESERVES
PART I.–LIQUORS.
CHAPTER I.
IT is very difficult to define in an accurate manner the substances to which the term liquor has been applied, so numerous are the acceptations of this word; it designates certain chemical and pharmaceutical preparations as well as beverages. For the purposes of this work, let us consider liquors as alcoholic beverages, and under this title are included brandy, table liquors and aromatic wines.
We include natural liquors in the first class, which comprises alcoholic beverages prepared by simple distillation of the fermented juices of fruits. The preparation of brandy, kirsch, rum, and other liquors equally well known will be considered first. In the second class are included table liquors, or artificial liquors, as they are sometimes called, which includes beverages in which the base is alcohol or water, and only differ from each other by the presence or absence of sugar and in the nature of the aromatic substances, which are equally used by the perfumer and liquor manufacturer. In this class of liquors are included absinthe, anisette, curaçoa, etc. In the third class are included the aromatic wines, many of which were known to the ancients. In these wines the alcohol is not isolated, the base of the beverage being wine, or the juice of crushed grapes. Among wines of this class are included vermouth, hydromel, etc.
In addition to liquors proper, many articles, such as sirups and preserves, are manufactured, not only for direct consumption, but for use in the manufacture of the liquors themselves. Under this head will be included the preparation of simple and compound sirups, brandied fruits, glacéd fruit, etc.
The ancients had no knowledge of alcohol proper, which was only discovered in the thirteenth century, but they prepared aromatic wines, and the old manuscripts transmit a large number of receipts to us. The most ancient liquor of which we have any knowledge is hippocras, the invention of which is attributed to Hippocrates, the celebrated Greek physician; primarily, it is only an infusion of cinnamon in wine sweetened with honey, but with the change of fashion, this drink became more complicated and was served on all great occasions. This drink was given the place of honor during the middle ages, and it still figured among the refreshments served at the court of Louis XIV. and Louis XV. The Romans introduced various other liquors and aromatic wines, and in the middle ages people were equally addicted to their use. The discovery of alcohol made a revolution in the art of the liquoriste, and all the old receipts soon fell into oblivion. The wine of absinthe of Pliny only remains. We now call it vermouth.
CHAPTER II.
ALCOHOL.
ALCOHOL is the principal product of fermentation, particularly of glucose, and this includes nearly all the sugar confined in fruits. The transformation of