Everand Logo

Welcome to Everand!

  • Discover millions of ebooks, audiobooks, and so much more with a free trial

    Only $11.99/month after trial. Cancel anytime.

    Garden Foes - Part I - Flower Foes
    Garden Foes - Part I - Flower Foes
    Garden Foes - Part I - Flower Foes
    Ebook269 pages2 hours

    Garden Foes - Part I - Flower Foes

    By T. W. Sanders

    ()

    Read preview

    About this ebook

    This vintage book contains a comprehensive guide to the insects, diseases, and plant species that are damaging to common garden flowers. It gives detailed descriptions of the various ailments and 'foes', as well as information on how to prevent and remedy them. Highly recommended for green fingered gardeners, especially those with a special interest in flowers. Contents include: "Flower Foes", "China Aster", "Auricula", "Bulbs", "Carnation", "Chrysanthenum", "Dablia", "Delphinium", "Hellebore", "Hollyhock", "Lawn", "Lilium", "Lupinus", "Pansy and Violet", "Peony", "Rose", "Sweet", "Pea", "Wallflower", "Greenhouse Foes". Many vintage books such as this are increasingly scarce and expensive. We are republishing this volume now in an affordable, modern edition complete with a specially commissioned new introduction on the history of gardening.
    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherHome Farm Books
    Release dateSep 15, 2017
    ISBN9781473340503
    Garden Foes - Part I - Flower Foes

    Read more from T. W. Sanders

    Related to Garden Foes - Part I - Flower Foes

    Related ebooks

    Gardening For You

    View More
    View More

    Related podcast episodes

    Related articles

    • Article

      TREASURES Of The TRUST

      Aug 13, 2021

      The National Trust looks after more than 200 historic houses, which contain over one million objects. From works of art and vast tapestries to precious personal possessions, the range and breadth of the collections is astonishing and can be compared

      9 min read

    • Article

      PLANT Winter Containers

      Sep 11, 2019

      PLANT Winter Containers
      1 min read

    • Article

      Worlds Combine

      Aug 24, 2023

      Worlds Combine
      4 min read

    • Article

      A Charmed Life

      Oct 17, 2021

      A Charmed Life
      4 min read

    • Article

      Historic Emporiums

      Dec 29, 2021

      Historic Emporiums
      7 min read

    • Article

      Arthur Parkinson’s Container Recipes

      Mar 23, 2022

      With a focus on colourful annuals and perennials for creative displays, Arthur suggests a couple of planting schemes for brilliant containers this summer. For sustained, multi-dimensional appeal, he embraces Sarah Raven’s concept of making sure conta

      1 min read

    • Article

      Best Practical Books Of The Year

      Sep 1, 2022

      The Gardener’s Palette: Creating Colour Harmony in the Garden Jo Thompson (TIMBER PRESS/RHS) A harmonious palette is half the battle when it comes to planting design and this book gives you a hand by presenting 100 palettes borrowed from existing gar

      2 min read

    • Article

      Notebook

      Feb 5, 2020

      Notebook
      6 min read

    • Article

      Hamptons Respite

      May 10, 2022

      Hamptons Respite
      1 min read

    • Article

      The FLOWER POT MAN

      Apr 1, 2021

      The FLOWER POT MAN
      2 min read

    • Article

      At Home In The 1920s

      Aug 21, 2017

      At Home In The 1920s
      4 min read

    • Article

      Good To Know

      Feb 1, 2022

      One spike of anise hyssop blossoms can have up to 90,000 flowers, making it especially attractive to a wide host of pollinators. Dutchman’s pipe is the host plant of the pipevine swallowtail butterfly, whose caterpillars consume toxins in the leave

      1 min read

    • Article

      Do Yourself A Flavour

      Jan 18, 2023

      Do Yourself A Flavour
      8 min read

    • Article

      Delicious By Design

      Mar 2, 2021

      Delicious By Design
      4 min read

    • Article

      Cottage Garden delight

      Jun 24, 2021

      Cottage Garden delight
      6 min read

    • Article

      Native Bees Find Winter Shelter in Surprising Places

      Nov 29, 2023

      As the buzz of busy bees gave way to the rustle of fallen leaves in my autumn garden, the last of the bumblebee stragglers hit up fading mountain mint blooms. Day by day, fewer sparkly green sweat bees and dwarf carpenter bees nectared on the asters,

      2 min read

    • Article

      Return Of The Native

      Dec 7, 2021

      Return Of The Native
      3 min read

    • Article

      Quintessential Georgian

      Nov 25, 2020

      Quintessential Georgian
      4 min read

    • Article

      Story Of A LIFETIME

      Apr 20, 2022

      Story Of A LIFETIME
      4 min read

    • Article

      Himalayan White Pine

      Oct 19, 2023

      Himalayan White Pine
      3 min read

    • Article

      Nature’s Cues

      Jan 30, 2020

      Nature’s Cues
      5 min read

    • Article

      Plant Power

      Oct 1, 2022

      Plant Power
      1 min read

    Related categories

    Reviews for Garden Foes - Part I - Flower Foes

    0 ratings

    0 ratings0 reviews

    What did you think?

    Tap to rate

    Review must be at least 10 words

      Book preview

      Garden Foes - Part I - Flower Foes - T. W. Sanders

      COMMON

      PLATES.

      CHRYSANTHEMUM RUST

      DISEASED LEAF OF INDIA-RUBBER PLANT

      EGGS OF GHOST OR SNOW FLY ON A SALVIA LEAF

      FERN FROND INFESTED WITH BROWN SCALE

      FROG FLIES WHICH INJURE ROSE LEAVES

      GALLS ON A ROSE SHOOT

      HOVERING FLIES AND LARVÆ

      LACE-WING FLY WITH LARVÆ

      LADYBIRD BEETLES AND THEIR LARVÆ

      LEAF-MINING FLY AND PUPÆ

      LEAVES INJURED BY LEAF-MINING FLY LARVÆ

      MEALY BUGS

      ROSE APHIS OR GREENFLY

      ROSE LEAVES HEALTHY AND INJURED BY FROG-FLIES

      ROSE LEAVES INFESTED WITH LEAF-ROLLING SAWFLY

      SALVIA LEAF INJURED BY SNOW FLY

      SCALE INSECTS ON OLEANDER LEAVES

      SWEET PEA BLIGHT

      THRIPS HÆMORRHOIDALIS

      TIGER BEETLE

      VIOLET GROUND BEETLE

      VIOLET RUST

      WINTER MOTHS

      FLOWER FOES.

      CHAPTER I.

      ASTER.

      China Aster Disease.—The disease that wipes out millions of asters, of all sizes, both in gardens and market nurseries, is akin to, if not exactly the same as, that which destroys tomato plants. Fusarium and eelworm have been the credited cause, but, if such pests have actually been concerned, they probably only come as subsidiary causes. Mycologists held the view that some form of phytophthora, a fungus closely allied to the Potato Blight, was the real cause of tomato seedlings dying off in their early stages, and Mr. G. H. Pethyridge, of the Irish Department of Agriculture, has definitely confirmed this supposition, and has named it Phytophthora cryptogea. Seedlings are attacked through sowing in soil containing disease spores and, as the disease is carried over in the soil year by year, it ultimately becomes impossible to grow asters at all unless the soil is sterilised.

      This phytophthora disease, or one of its close relatives, is doubtless responsible for much of the loss in seed beds, etc., as it attacks plants by way of their roots, whilst it also has the ability to emit swimming spores, which in the tiniest drop of moisture, can travel about and eventually find their way on to foliage and stem, where they emit germ tubes which penetrate the tissues. Thus it comes about that a plant may be attacked when it is almost fully developed. In the case of China asters, the main stem, or only a branch, may be attacked, but when once the spores enter the tissues the affected part is quickly encircled with the blackish discoloration, followed by rapid shrinkage, and down the top goes. In the case of seedlings, the little plants simply topple over at the collar, and for this reason it has been termed collar rot or foot rot.

      REMEDIES.—When once this disease has appeared, every effort should be made to keep it in check. Remove and burn all infected plants, and before starting another season, sterilise the seed boxes or pots, and also the soil before sowing. If the bed or border has in previous years produced diseased plants, treat it with any recognised chemical steriliser, either liquid or powder, of which there are many. Avoid too early sowings. Sow either in a cold frame, or in the open at the latter end of April or early May. Prick out into temporary beds if crowded; it is, however, better to sow thinly, and shift the seedlings when some two inches high into their flowering quarters. Carefully avoid, when planting out, burying the stems deeper than the original point, and remove the seed leaves and any other foliage that touches the soil. Such foliage very soon contracts disease.

      China asters are very shallow rooters, and, therefore, require rich, moisture-holding soil, but on no account water more than is really necessary. Keep the soil constantly stirred. During the growing season occasionally spray with weak Bordeaux mixture or dust with Bordeaux powder. Bone-meal is a good and safe stimulant, but keep all fertilisers away from the stems.

      Orange Rust (Coleosporium Solidaginis).—This fungus attacks the foliage of the Perennial Aster or Michaelmas Daisy, the Golden Rod (Solidago), and the China Aster (Callistephus). It is a prevalent disease in America, and also fairly common in this country. It is supposed to be identical with a fungus which attacks the Ragworts (Senecio), and other plants of the order Compositæ. In the first stage of its life history it appears on the bark of Pine trees (Pinus), but in the second stage, the uredoform, it forms orange-coloured patches on the under-sides of the leaves of the plants previously mentioned. Like other rust fungi, its presence interferes with the functions of the plants attacked and brings them into ill-health.

      REMEDIES.—Pick off and burn all leaves infected with the orange patches. In autumn, too, be careful to burn all dead stems and leaves, and not to throw them on the rubbish heap.

      AURICULA.

      Auricula Root Aphis (Trama auriculæ).—A species of aphis, or mealy louse, which infests the roots and stems of the auricula and often causes the death of the plants. There are winged and wingless forms, but it is the latter form which injures the plant by puncturing the stem and roots, and sucking out the sap. It has a greenish or yellowish hairy body, covered at the extremity with a woolly substance

      REMEDIES.—When auriculas are found to be infested, lift them or turn them out of their pots and thoroughly wash the roots and stems in a solution of soft soap and water, followed by a thorough rinsing in clean water. Re-plant in a fresh site or repot in fresh compost. Saturate the soil in which outdoor plants were grown with hot soapy water, and burn infested potting composts the plants were grown in.

      Auricula Leaf Blotch (Heterosporium auriculi).—The leaves of auriculas are sometimes attacked by a disease which forms olive-green patches on the surface that later assume a brown colour, wither, and drop out, leaving holes behind. It is more prevalent on plants grown under glass in a too moist atmosphere than on outdoor ones.

      REMEDIES.—When the spots first appear, spray the foliage with a solution of sulphide of potassium and water. Badly diseased plants should be burnt.

      BULBS.

      Narcissus Fly.—This insect was formerly known as Meredon equestre, but now as Meredon narcissi. It is reputed not to be a native insect, but to have been introduced into this country about 1869 from the Continent. Anyway, since daffodils have been so extensively grown, the fly has multiplied very largely, and is now found in all parts of the country, as well as in Scotland and Ireland. It has proved itself a serious pest, and a great menace to daffodil culture, so much so that the Ministry of Agriculture has scheduled it as a notifiable pest. At one time it was thought that the grubs attacked the bulbs of narcissi only, but it has since been found that they also attack bulbs of hyacinth, tulip, leucojum, habranthus, vallota, hippeastrum, amaryllis, and even lilies, though, perhaps, not to the same extent as the narcissi.

      Meredon narcissi is a fairly large fly with a hairy body, which is somewhat variable in colour. Usually the ground colour is black, with a yellow band at the base of the head and at the extremity of the body, as shown in the Coloured Plate at Fig. 3. Sometimes, however, the coloured bands are absent. In general appearance, they are not unlike a bee, and may be easily mistaken for one by a non-student of entomology. A bee, however, has four wings, whereas the Narcissus Fly has only two. Fig. 3 shows the fly of natural size.

      The flies appear during the spring and early summer months, then pair, and soon after deposit their eggs on the base of the leaves of a narcissus bulb. The eggs are minute in size, oval in shape, and white in colour. In due course, the eggs give birth to legless, whitish, or yellowish grubs, which gnaw their way into the base of the bulbs, and consume the whole of their interior. The grubs are very voracious, and soon destroy the bulbs they attack. Generally speaking, only one grub is present in a bulb, although two or three have occasionally been found. How long the insect remains in the larval state seems uncertain. Some authorities state that they enter the pupal stage in autumn; others that they continue to feed till spring, then do so. Fig. 1 shows a larva feeding in a bulb, and Fig. 2 the chrysalis or pupa. The insect sometimes pupates in the bulb, but in most cases does so in an earthen, silk-lined cell or cocoon in the soil. The larvæ are capable of travelling from one bulb to another, a thing that happens when several eggs are laid on one bulb, and the resultant grubs have to seek their own food hosts.

      REMEDIES.—This pest is not an easy one to deal with, since it is difficult to detect the presence of the larvæ, except by lifting the bulbs in July, after the foliage has withered. Each bulb should then be very closely scrutinised at the base to see if it is quite firm and sound without the presence of holes or cavities. Keep all perfectly sound bulbs by themselves, and burn all doubtful ones. A careful watch should be kept in spring for the appearance of any bulbs making sickly growth. In this case lift the bulb and examine it, and if it is grub-infested burn it. Where beds or borders have been planted with narcissi, and the bulbs have been badly attacked, give the soil a thorough sterilising with a soil fumigant, or with formalin. New bulbs purchased from abroad should also be most critically examined before planting to see that no infested ones are planted. Some authorities recommend the immersion of the bulbs in slightly warm water for 48 hours to force out the larvæ ensconced therein, or to drown them.

      Finally, in any case, do not overlook the fact that the presence of the larvæ in bulbs must be reported at once to the Ministry of Agriculture, as, under the provisions of the Diseases and Pests Acts, any person failing to do so renders himself liable to a penalty of ten pounds.

      Small Narcissus Fly.—There is another smaller fly, named Eumerus strigatus, which is of Continental origin, and has done considerable injury to narcissi and hyacinth bulbs. It is a blackish, two-winged fly, about 1/4 in. long, which is the parent of legless, yellowish-white larvæ with a chestnut-coloured, horny tubercle on the end of its body. The flies appear in May and June, and deposit their eggs near the base of the leaves. The larvæ, when hatched, burrow into the top of the bulb, and feed on the inner tissues. From ten to thirty maggots infest each bulb. Some of the larvæ pupate in the autumn, others not till spring. Anyway, they are more destructive than the larvæ of the Narcissus Fly, as they quickly destroy any bulbs attacked. Fortunately, this pest is not very widely distributed. The only remedy is to burn infested bulbs, and to sterilise the soil in which they were grown with fumigants.

      Narcissus Disease (Fusarium bulbigenum).—This fungus appears in the form of small yellowish spots on the leaves. Later these become brown, dry, and horny. The mycelium of the fungus descends to the scales of the bulbs, which gradually become brown and decay. It is believed that the disease was introduced from Holland.

      REMEDIES.—A rule should be made to burn all bulbs showing traces of disease. No bulbs of any kind should be planted for several years in the same soil. In spring, when secondary spores of the fungus are in course of germination, fork into the infected soil one ounce of kainit or sulphate of potash per square yard.

      Bulb Mite (Rhizoglyphus echinopus).—This is an almost microscopic creature, which feeds on the bulbs of tulips and lilies, and the roots of dahlias, eucharis, etc. It is related to the well-known cheese mite. The presence of the mite may be detected on plants by small reddish scales on the bulbs or roots, and by the pale yellow colour of the foliage. They have smooth yellowish-white, pinkish bodies, and can only be seen by the aid of a powerful lens.

      REMEDIES.—(1) The most effectual remedy is to burn unhealthy bulbs and the soil they have been grown in. (2) Wash the bulbs, before planting or potting, in a solution of sulphide of potassium and water (one ounce to three gallons). (3) Fumigating in a closed chamber with bisulphide of carbon. Use one pint of carbon to 1,000 cubic feet of space. A dangerous remedy, however, as the gas is highly poisonous, and must not be heated. Nor must a light of any kind, not even a lighted cigar, cigarette, or pipe, be used near, otherwise the gas will ignite and explode.

      BULB MITE (RHIZOGLYPHUS ECHINOPUS.)

      1. Mite greatly magnified. 2. Mites infesting the underside of the outer bulb scales.

      Narcissi Bulb Eelworm (Tylenchus devastratix).—Narcissi bulbs are specially liable to be attacked by microscopic organisms commonly known as eelworms, which abound in all soils containing much humus. Of late years this particular species has seriously damaged narcissi bulbs, and some considerable attention has been paid to the study of its life history and the means of coping effectually with it. The worms are practically colourless, slender, pointed at each end, and so extremely minute that they can only be seen by the aid of a low-power microscope. They gain access to the bulbs through the roots or the base of the leaves, which they pierce by means of a spear-like apparatus. There are male and female eelworms, the

      Enjoying the preview?
      Page 1 of 1