Beauty And Wellness: A Compilation Of All You Need To Know To Proceed In Style, Beauty, Good Health And Confidence

REFERENCES

INTRODUCTION

BEAUTY

Do you want to be a TRUE Beauty? This is where you will find quality beauty, lifestyle, fitness, makeup and diet information. Here you will learn to look good and feel good without spending a lot of money.

This is The Urban Girl’s guide to makeup, beauty, wellness and fun.

BODY MAKE-OVERS: TIPS AND TRICKS FROM THE PROS

Make the most of your natural features with tricks from the pros! Want a haircut that suits your face shape? Want to know how to get a glamorous glow like Beyoncé Knowles? How about a quick and easy, yet professional, finish for your nails? Delve in for tips and tricks for your face, skin, and good health and shape and how to build a fragrance wardrobe that smells divine!

Disclaimer: The information herein provided is for general information only. Any health or safety related issues should be further researched, and the advice requested of a properly qualified professional. The Aspire Group cannot be held responsible for, and will not be liable for the inaccuracy or application of any information whatsoever herein provided.

CHAPTER ONE: SKIN

A PRIMER IN THE SKIN CARE BASICS

We talk serums, cleansers and oils like they’re our ABCs, but even beauty editors scrunch their face in confusion when an anti-aging hybrid eye cream moisturizer comes across their desk.

The truth is, while exciting, the world of skin care is a little bit intimidating for beauty beginners. The vast amount of product is overwhelming, and don’t even get us started on the vernacular! It’s these reasons alone that many surrender to soap, and that makes us sad. Yes, there’s an encyclopedia of knowledge to learn from, but it doesn’t have to feel like school again.

We broke the domain of skin care down into a broad overview of seven steps what you should know before you even begin. Granted, you probably won’t include everything in your personal system, and there’s so much more to learn. Keep these categories in mind when studying for your next skin shopping trip.

Level 0: The Pre-Cleansers

Before you even get to wash your face, you have to take the gunk on top of it off first. This is makeup removal stage. Whether you use a cleansing oil or any remover of your choice, wipe off the day’s dirt before you cleanse.

Level 1: The Cleansers

A cleanser washes your face. Pretty simple, no? Available in formulas such as milk, gel, cream, and oil, the options are endless.

Every morning, before you do anything else to your skin, wash your face. Overnight, your skin can build up a lot of oils, says Carolyn Jacob, MD, founder and medical director of Chicago Cosmetic Surgery and Dermatology. There can still be dirt left over. And if you didn't wash off your makeup from last night you have to get that off too.

Really pressed for time? Save a step and wash your face right in the shower/ while bathing.

When choosing a cleanser, you don't need anything fancy or expensive.

A cleanser labelled for sensitive skin is gentle enough and won't leave your skin looking parched. If your skin is already dry, a cleanser containing ceramides can return some of the missing moisture. She recommends an acne-fighting cleanser for oilier, pimple-prone skin.

You don't have to spend more than a few seconds washing your face, but the technique you use is important. Be gentle. Use your fingers. No scrub sponges, no loofah sponges, no buff puffs or any type of abrasive or exfoliating products.

Rinse, gently pat dry, and you're done!

Choose Your Cleanser Wisely

If you're a soap and water girl (or guy), you may want to rethink your cleansing strategy. Dermatologists say that one of the best beauty tips around is to use the gentlest cleanser you can find - and use it sparingly.

While the temptation may be great to wash your face several times a day (or more if skin is oily), not only will over-cleansing NOT help you, if you're using a harsh product—particularly soap—you could be harming your skin, says Crutchfield, an associate clinical Professor of Dermatology.

Wash your face too often - more than twice a day - and you can damage the natural lipid barrier, the protective mantle of lubrication that keeps skin looking and feeling healthy.

Once that protection is lost, and the integrity of the skin barrier disrupted, skin becomes dry - which means it can crack, peel, itch, burn, sting, or any combination, says Charles E. Crutchfield, an associate clinical Professor of Dermatology.

It also means you can look older than your years.

The solution: Wash skin no more than twice a day and choose your cleanser wisely.

Level 2: The Toners

Perhaps one of the more controversial steps in the beauty world, toner is one of those love/hate items. Technically, it’s used as a post-cleanse, removing all traces of makeup and debris your previous steps may have missed. It’s also said to have highly soothing, anti-inflammatory properties. Whatever your opinion, whip it out after the first wash. However, always be mindful when buying toners, since these can dry the skin if alcohol-based.

Level 3: The Masks and Exfoliators

Ah, the addendums. Face masks practically come in every format possible, targeting a wide variety of issues—big pores, irritated skin, firming, wrinkles, etc. Usually, masks formulated with clay or some sort of acne-fighting ingredient help with oily skin and zits, while soothing creamy masks or sheet masks help firm, tighten, and tone. Available in both chemical and physical formats, exfoliators slough off dead skin cells, revealing a younger, more vibrant layer. Use these products (bi-weekly) after you’ve given your face a good wash, but before any treatments.

Level 4: The Eye Products

99% of the time, it’s probably a good idea to give your skin a little extra something extra around the delicate, paper-thin orbital socket surrounding your eye. Whether it’s a cream, gel, or balm formula, apply under your moisturizer, and don’t place the product too close to the eye.

Level 5: The Anti-Agers

Topical treatments, serums, facial mists, pore refiners—the fancy stuff that promises you younger-looking skin? All under the umbrella of anti-aging. Some go on before moisturizers, some after. And some serve double-duty as both! Read the label for application instructions, and don’t forget your neck, chest, and hands.

Level 6: The Moisturizers

As anti-aging becomes a prime skin focus for all ages, the lines between moisture and treatment blur. However, if you’re just looking for pure hydration, this is the time to slather on any lotion, cream, gel, or SPF you like (use sunscreen that blocks UVA and UVB).

You also need to protect your skin from the sun with an SPF sunscreen of 15-30 with at least a 5% zinc oxide physical blocker—but here you can easily skip a step. For a quick morning regimen, you can use a product that combines a moisturizer and a sunscreen, Novick says.

Some foundations or pressed powders also have added sunscreen, and a physical blocker like zinc oxide protects you from the UVA skin cancer and premature aging rays.

Moisturize, moisturize, moisturize

For a smoother look, Novick suggests applying moisturizer after you put on your concealer. Use a concealer brush to gently pat the moisturizer on top.

Never Underestimate the Power of Moisturizer

Whether your skin is dry, normal, or even oily, if you can only afford one skin care product, experts say, your dollars will be well spent on a good moisturizer.

Sometimes, all you really need is a good moisturizer and a mild cleanser, and you can take years off your face,

If you're in your 20s or 30s, doctors say, moisturizers will give you some of the protection you need to keep skin from prematurely aging.

So what exactly is a good moisturizer? Crutchfield describes it this way: It's a product that will do anything from gently adding moisture, to sealing in the moisture you've achieved, to helping your skin produce more moisture—and which type you choose should be based on your skin's individual needs.

If skin is normal to dry, look for moisturizers containing alpha hydroxy acids. They can help skin produce more moisture on its own, says Crutchfield. If skin is very dry, he also suggests products using a technology called vesicular emulsion.

This technology uses microscopic spheres that are alternating layers of moisture and water that slowly release throughout the day, so you get continual moisturization, says Crutchfield. If skin is oily, look for a light, gentle moisturizer - but don't skip this step, cautions Crutchfield. Oil is not moisture, and even if you have excess oil you still need moisture, he says.

OILY SKIN MYTHS SOLVED!

There are many myths surrounding oily skin. Stop moisturizing, only use oil-free products, always use a toner, and carry around blotting papers— the list goes on! And while most imagine that they have oily skin, quite often it’s not actually the case. The first question you should ask yourself: Do you really have oily skin, or just a little shine when you have been out in the sun? You can label your skin ‘oily’ if it becomes an oil-slick within an hour of washing your face, says Washington D.C.-based dermatologist Elizabeth Tanzi, M.D. Otherwise, it’s more than likely you have combination skin. Dr. Tanzi was more than happy to solve some oily skin myths.

MYTH NO. 1: Don’t moisturize oily skin.

Many people with slightly oily skin think that they need to dry it out, and forego any extra moisture. This isn’t the case. By using a harsh cleanser and not applying moisturizer, your skin will start to produce more oil, perpetuating and even worsening the vicious cycle of sebum production. Stay away from heavy moisturizers that contain shea butter and petrolatum, says Dr. Tanzi. They can cause excess sebum production on oily skin types.

MYTH NO. 2: Only use oil-free products.

It is purely a myth that girls with oily skin should use oil-free products. Although they may say oil-free on the label, most of the ingredients will contain some sort of oil. Look for shine control products to combat oil instead, such as blotting papers or skin primers, explains Dr. Tanzi. They don’t have to say oil-free specifically.

MYTH NO. 3: You must use a toner or astringent to balance skin.

All skin types can follow their cleanser with a toner or astringent, but it’s not a must-do for oily complexions. If you enjoy the tightening benefits of a toner, look for a formula that contains glycolic acid to cut through the grease—and only use it on your T-zone, advises Dr. Tanzi.

MYTH NO. 4: Steam is good for acne-prone skin.

Excess steam can clog the superficial corneal layer of your skin, says an expert dermatologist, Nia Terezakis, M.D. While a warm mist usually feels pleasant on the skin, the harsh and humid steam-room environment can cause sensitive, acne-prone skin to flare up. Your sweating, exposed pores trigger your sebaceous glands to produce excess fluid, says Dr. Terezakis.

MYTH NO. 5: The eyes and ears don’t breakout.

Why is it that everyone—including experts—seems to forget the outfielders of the face? The pores around your eyes, in and around your ears, and even inside your nose are just as susceptible to breakouts as any other part of your skin. Maintain good eye health, clean your ears regularly using a cotton swab and an astringent toner and clear out your nose with saline spray to eliminate excess bacteria and promote healthy nasal passages.

MYTH NO. 6: All natural means all good.

You wouldn't rub poison ivy all over your body just because it's natural, right? So why is it that we continue to blindly slather ourselves in any products deemed all-natural? There are some fantastic green options in skin care, but Mother Earth’s essences aren't always so friendly. Essential oils, plant extracts, and natural colorants can irritate the skin just as much as their synthetic counterparts. Be wary and test out any potentially irritating ingredients on your hand first.

MYTH NO. 7: Vitamin E is a wonder ingredient.

It seems like every skin care product features some form of vitamin E or tocopherol, a chemical compound that encourages skin rejuvenation. But because it easily gives up electrons to stabilize free radicals, it can be hard to predict its behavior in heat, light, and oxygen. Most tocopherol formulated for skin care is not stable and can potentially irritate the skin, warns Dr. Terezakis.

MYTH NO. 8: Pain equals potency.

The term no pain, no gain should never be part of your skin routine. Many are accustomed to thinking that they need to feel some sort of tingling, burning, or itching to trust the effects of their favorite products. Perhaps it's a placebo effect, but we're in the full opinion that your moisturizer shouldn't hurt upon application. Whatever painful products you're using, wash them off!

THE BEST SKIN CARE AT EVERY AGE

No matter their age, everyone wants complexion perfection. But how do you know when to start applying anti-aging serums? And when should you begin using glycolic