Argentina

Best of

Argentina

top things to do and see

San Telmo

The oldest barrio in Buenos Aires, colonial San Telmo is destination number one for an authentic tango experience. But it’s more than antique shops, bustling street fairs, poetic cafés and fish-netted dancers twirling in milongas. Here tourists, artists, vagabonds and businesspeople mingle, strolling the cobbled streets and frequenting the dive bars, artisanal beer houses and buzzworthy restaurants. See here.

Córdoba

A metropolitan experience as vibrant as Buenos Aires but operating at a more relaxed pace. The second largest city in Argentina boasts the country’s oldest university and is famous for its colonial centre. But the real stars are the outlying areas, which include Jesuit estancias, Che Guevara’s childhood home, and the Germanic town of Villa General Belgrano. See here.

Aconcagua

Bordering the sleepy college town of Mendoza is the Andes mountain range. And amid this mighty backbone of South America sits Aconcagua, the highest peak on the continent and second-highest in the world outside the Himalaya. Beckoning adventurers from across the globe, only the fittest and most serious of mountaineers need apply. See here.

Quebrada de Humahuaca

The northwest of Argentina is home to many natural wonders, like these stunning terracotta gorges just outside Jujuy. Mother Nature went wild with the paint box, coating the rock strata in shades of red, a backdrop for the idyllic oasis villages in the area. Be sure to come for the raucous Easter and Carnival celebrations. See here.

Esteros del Iberá

Those who are willing to travel outside the capital and into Corrientes Province will discover a treasure unlike any other in the country. This system of bogs, lagoons and floating islands is a paradise for wildlife enthusiasts and birdwatchers. These are the second-largest wetlands in the world after Brazil’s Pantanal. See here.

San Ignacio

On the surface, the town of San Ignacio is a quiet, unassuming place. Pay a visit, though, and you’ll discover its colonial heart: the Jesuit ruins of San Ignacio Miní, a mission founded in the 1600s. This crumbling UNESCO World Heritage Site is a great remnant of a time when South America as we know it was only just beginning to take shape. See here.

Iguazú Falls

As you twist and turn along wooden walkways, you’re met with a sheer drop to one side and thundering falls spraying you with mist on the other. Brave the Garganta del Diablo Circuit and you’ll reach a harrowing view straight down the Devil’s Throat. Look up for the spectacular sight of 275 converging waterfalls. See here.

Parque Nacional Los Alerces

There are few better vantage points in which to enjoy the Patagonian Andes in all their splendour than Los Alerces. Christened after the superlatively thick tree of the same name, this national park boasts virgin forest, hanging glaciers and perfect hikes. It’s also a short jaunt from the pristine Patagonian town of Esquel. See here.

Península Valdés

This little rock jutting out to sea is home to some of the best wildlife spotting on the Atlantic Coast of Patagonia. A conservation site for marine mammals, the peninsula is a natural habitat for threatened species, such as the southern right whale. Highlights include ravenous orcas, penguin colonies and glorious beaches. See here.

Glaciar Perito Moreno

A living monolith, tourists flock to experience the awe of being dwarfed by this glacier’s presence. An expanse of white stretches away until a wall of jagged blue ice, millions of years old, rumbles and fractures, crashing into the turquoise waters below. This is the world’s only advancing and retreating glacier. See here.

Parque Nacional Torres del Paine

Quite simply one of the world’s greatest national parks. When trekkers dream, they dream of Torres del Paine. Those with iron wills can put themselves to the ultimate test and attempt the full circuit, a seven-to eight-day trek that showcases all the splendour the park has to offer. See here.

Estancia Harberton

Over a century before Ushuaia was a tourist destination, there was Estancia Harberton. The missionary Thomas Bridges founded it in 1886 as an outpost where he hoped to learn about the indigenous peoples of Tierra del Fuego. The result was a national landmark sitting on the serene Beagle Channel that is still run by Bridges’ descendants today. See here.

Cerro Fitz Roy

Route

planner

putting it all together

One week

city nightlife and mighty waterfalls

The essentials for any trip are the bright lights of Buenos Aires and the stunning Iguazú Falls. Buenos Aires is a great first port of call, whether you want to see the football, try tango or shop till you drop, and to get any sense of the city you need a minimum of three days. Then take an overnight bus (16 hours), or a more expensive but much quicker flight, to Iguazú Falls. These are the country’s star attraction and should not be missed. Two days is sufficient to see both the Argentine and Brazilian sides of the falls, or better still allow two days to explore the larger Argentine park in more detail. Then return to Buenos Aires. Alternatively, if you’ve money to spare, spend the weekend at one of the grandiose estancias close to the capital, where you can ride horses, play sports, swim or just relax in the sun.

Two weeks

world-class trekking, rich indigenous culture and stunning landscape

La Boca, Buenos Aires

This itinerary is best suited to the warmer months (November to March). Start by enjoying fast-paced Buenos Aires in all its glory for three packed days and spend a couple of days at the Iguazú Falls. Then fly, via Buenos Aires, to El Calafate in Patagonia for breathtaking views of the southern ice field. Spend at least a day staring at the 60-m-high ice walls of the immense Perito Moreno Glacier from the wooden walkways on the peninsula, then catch the four-hour bus to El Chaltén to enjoy the relatively easy four-day hikes into the mountains. Otherwise, skip El Chaltén and head across the border to Puerto Natales in Chile. From there, hire your camping equipment and head off on the ‘W’ Circuit of the spectacular Parque Nacional Torres del Paine. You could also visit the Parque Nacional Bernardo O’Higgins. Return to Buenos Aires for a night before your journey home.

Salta church

An alternative itinerary heads northwest from Buenos Aires to Salta. The city’s colonial splendour contrasts perfectly with the culture of the puna, where Pachamama festivities are a glimpse of another time. Hire a car here or catch a local bus to Quebrada de Humahuaca, a vast red gorge dotted with ancient rock formations in astounding colours, connecting a string of little villages, including Tilcara, Humahuaca and Purmamarca. From Salta you can also visit the timeless Valles Calchaquíes, where high-altitude wine is grown in dramatic rugged landscapes. Fly back to Buenos Aires for one last night.

One month

lose yourself in BA’s barrios, then discover the jewels of north and south

A month is the ideal amount of time to spend in Argentina, giving you a feel for the country’s extraordinary contrasts. Start in Buenos Aires, where you’ll have time to explore chic Palermo Viejo and old San Telmo with its cobbled streets. You could also visit the delta river system just north of the city. Heading north, your trip to the Iguazú Falls should be combined with a visit to the Jesuit mission ruins hidden by the thick jungle, or time in a lodge in the Esteros del Iberá wetlands.

After Iguazú, fly south to El Calafate to experience the immensity of the Perito Moreno Glacier. From November to March head over to El Chaltén for a few days’ hiking, or cross the border into Chile to trek in the Torres del Paine National Park. From El Calafate you have time to drive the lonely Ruta 40 north to Bariloche in Ernesto ‘Che’ Guevara’s tyre tracks. Stop off at the Cueva de las Manos to see incredibly preserved prehistoric cave paintings. Alternatively, fly south from El Calafate to Ushuaia to see the ‘End of the World’. Tierra del Fuego offers the ultimate wilderness and, as you take a boat trip along the Beagle Channel, you’ll feel like a true explorer.

From Ushuaia, take a flight to picturesque Bariloche, where you’ll find chalet-style hotels, chocolate shops and a backdrop of peaks. The next few days should be spent exploring the Lake District on foot and by car: enjoy the serene lakeside setting of San Martín de Los Andes; discover quiet Villa Pehuenia, surrounded by monkey puzzle trees, or fish for giant trout at Junín de los Andes. Then head south to laid-back El Bolsón for superb hiking in the 2000-year-old forests of Los Alerces National Park or ride the Old Patagonian Express train into the hills.

Moving on, head north by bus to Mendoza to visit the nearby vineyards and do a winery tour, before travelling to Córdoba to marvel at the colonial architecture and the restored Jesuit missions. Finally, make your way up to Salta in the northwest. This is another Argentina, of rich indigenous culture and ancient civilizations. Visit the Valles Calchaquíes and the Quebrada de Humahuaca, before heading back to Buenos Aires for your final night.

Cueva de las Manos

Vineyards, Mendoza

Best

treks

La Cumbrecita

Located in the heart of Córdoba province, La Cumbrecita is a small town best accessed on foot. No cars or motorcycles are allowed into the village, and this simple rule creates a peaceful getaway. What you will see is lots of thirsty trekkers looking for some of the locally brewed beers. You can walk here from the German-style town of Villa General Belgrano and from some of the other little towns nearby as well. This is an easy to intermediate trek. The village’s website has lots of useful information: www.lacumbrecita.gov.ar. See here.

Aconcagua

Less than 200 km from Mendoza, Aconcagua National Park is home to the highest peak in the world outside the Himalaya. The mighty Aconcagua scrapes the sky at 6959 m and should only be attempted by experienced climbers with a guide. Allow at least eight days to acclimatize to the altitude before you attempt this trek, and speak to the park rangers about a permit. For more information, see www.aconcagua.mendoza.gov.ar. here.

Aconcagua

Sendero Chorro de los Loros

Only a short distance from Salta is El Rey National Park, located in a horseshoe-shaped valley, surrounded by the peaks of the Sierra del Piquete mountain range. Few people make it here due to its remote location, ensuring clean trails, more wildlife and the chance to be alone in the wild. There are eight trails, with the most interesting being the Sendero Chorro de los Loros, which takes you through the jungle for 10 km and brings you up close and personal with the local wildlife. This is an intermediate trek. See www.welcomeargentina.com/parques/elrey.html. See here.

Volcán Lanín

One of the world’s most beautiful mountains, Lanín (3776 m) is geologically one of the youngest volcanoes (though now extinct) of the Andes. To reach the summit is a challenging three-day climb, with two [italic]refugios at 2400 m. The views are spectacular but the climb will keep you out of breath. Because of its relative accessibility, the risks are often underestimated: crampons and ice axe are essential. See here.

Parque Nacional Perito Moreno

Parque Nacional Perito Moreno

If you are a lover of all things remote and inaccessible, head to the Perito Moreno National Park, just off the Ruta 40. Tours to the park are increasing, but it may be easiest to rent a car. The best trek to do is to Lago Burmeister, which is easy, relatively short and offers stunning views of the lake as well as the pristine surrounds. You will be the only person here. Camp by the lake and watch the shadows of the mountains dance in the moonlight. Check out www.losglaciares.com. See here.

El Chaltén

El Chaltén

Nestled in between jagged peaks and snow-laden valleys, El Chaltén is the perfect base for treks in the area. Follow the signs from the edge of town, and in less than 30 minutes you’ll be all alone on a mountain pass overlooking deep blue lakes and fertile valleys. Return to your hostel and relax in one of the lively restaurants in town. The routes range from easy two-hour walks to challenging multi-day treks. A helpful website is www.elchalten.com. See here.

When

to go

… and when not to

Climate

Argentina is an appealing destination for warm, sunny holidays in the middle of the northern hemisphere winter. However, since the country covers such a vast area, there is somewhere to visit at any time of year. The southern hemisphere summer is from December to March, spring is from mid-September to November, autumn is from March to May and winter from June to August.

Before you look at when to go, start thinking about what you would like to see. Generally speaking, November to April is the best time for travelling to Mendoza, San Juan, Córdoba, Patagonia and Ushuaia. Trekking trails are open and national parks are at their prettiest. For the rest of the country, namely Salta, Jujuy, Tucumán, Corrientes and Iguazú Falls, May to October is best, as temperatures tend to be cooler and there is less rain. Exceptions are the marine reserve at Península Valdés, which has different seasons for different animals, and also the ski resorts, whose season runs from about June to mid-October, depending on the climate.

Buenos Aires city is wonderful any time of year but is at its best in spring and autumn, when the weather is sunny and mild. The city can be hot and humid in the height of summer, with temperatures over 40°C and humidity at 80%. If you come in summer, consider spending a night in the delta or on an estancia to cool down.

See also weather charts at the beginning of chapters.

Festivals

It is worth planning your trip to coincide with certain festivals but book transport and accommodation well in advance. The main holiday period is January to March when all Argentine schoolchildren are on holiday and most families go away for a few weeks up to two months. All popular tourist destinations become extremely busy at this time, with foreign visitors adding to the crowds, particularly in Bariloche, El Calafate and Ushuaia. You’ll find that most of Buenos Aires’ residents leave town for the whole of January. The richest go to Punta del Este in Uruguay and the beaches in Brazil, everyone else heads to Mar del Plata and the rest of the coast.

During Easter week, and the winter school holidays throughout July, hotels may also fill up fast, particularly in the ski resorts.

No one works on the national holidays, and these are often long weekends, with a resulting surge of people to popular holiday places. See also public holidays, here.

ON THE ROAD

Best festivals

Empanada festival

Each September the empanada festival in Tucumán brings together the best empanada chefs in the country. There are cooking displays, music and the fiercely contested ‘best empanada’ competition. The region produces spicy empanadas with golden pastry. Don’t eat for a week beforehand so you’ll have room to fit in as many as you can. Book bus tickets and accommodation early.

Festival de la Luz

Festival de la Luz (Festival of Light), each August and September in Buenos Aires, is a collaboration of dozens of photography festivals around the world. All over the city free exhibitions, events, conferences and workshops are held, and even the smallest of art galleries participate. Look in newspapers for free events.

Fiesta de la Tradición

To celebrate the culture and lifestyle of the Argentine gauchos, each November the population of San Antonio de Areco, a small town near Buenos Aires, swells as people arrive from far afield to attend the Fiesta de la Tradición. There are horse-riding displays, live music, stalls selling gaucho clothes and metal work, and gaucho-inspired artwork is on show. The festival concludes on 10 November with the Día de la Tradición, which pays homage to José Hernández who wrote the epic gaucho poem Martín Fierro.

Fiesta Nacional de la Cereza

Situated just off the Ruta 40 in an oasis on the shores of Lago Buenos Aires, Los Antiguos is usually a sleepy country town. But come January and the Fiesta Nacional de la Cereza (cherry festival), now running for over a quarter-century, the hotels fill up, the streets crowd with cars, and people from all over Argentina come to enjoy the regional produce. There are stalls selling local fruit, including cherries, and crafts. Each night there are fireworks and at the end of the festival a Cherry Queen is chosen, attracting crowds of up to 30,000 people.

Oktoberfest

Attractive Villa General Belgrano in Córdoba keeps up the Oktoberfest tradition every year when the small German-style village turns into a mosh pit of beer lovers. Local beer halls fill up quickly and accommodation is really hard to find. Come for the party atmosphere and the mix of people, not for a peaceful weekend away. The locally brewed beers are always a favourite.

Vendimia wine festival

The Vendimia wine festival in Mendoza lasts from January right through to the first weeks of March and involves huge flamboyant parades day and night, featuring floats carrying the 17 candidates for Harvest Queen. The festival also promotes local growers and their products, as well as national musicians and artists. It has been celebrated for nearly 70 years and it attracts more and more people every year.

What

to do

from climbing the Andes to cross-country skiing

Birdwatching

It comes as no surprise in a country so rich in untouched natural habitats that the birdlife is extraordinary and extremely varied. From the wealth of seabirds at Península Valdés to the colourful species in the subtropical rainforest near the Iguazú Falls, from the marshlands of Esteros del Iberá or the Chaco savannah to the Lake District and the mountainous interior of Tierra del Fuego, there are marvellous opportunities to spot birds. At least 980 of the 2926 species of bird registered in South America exist in Argentina, and many birdwatching hotspots have easy access. There are specialist tours led by expert guides in most areas; see the travelling text for details.

All Patagonia, www.allpatagonia.com, runs birdwatching trips in Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego. In the northeast, contact Daniel Samay of Explorador Expediciones, www.rainforest.iguazuargentina.com. An excellent British-based tour operator that can arrange birdwatching trips is Select Latin America, T020-7407 1478, www.selectlatinamerica.co.uk.

Climbing

The Andes offer great climbing opportunities. The most popular peaks include Aconcagua in Mendoza province, Pissis in Catamarca, and Lanín and Tronador, reached from the Lake District. The northern part of Los Glaciares National Park, around El Chaltén, has some spectacular peaks with very difficult mountaineering. Climbing clubs can be found in Mendoza, Bariloche, Esquel, Junín de los Andes, Ushuaia and other cities, and in some places equipment can be hired. Also contact Club Andino, www.caba.org.ar.

Fishing

Argentina offers some of the world’s finest fishing, in beautiful virgin landscape, and with good accommodation. In the Lake District, there’s world-renowned fly-fishing for trout (rainbow, brown and brook) and for chinook or landlocked salmon. The centre is around Junín de los Andes and Bariloche, in rivers Quilquihue, Chimehuín, Collón-Curá, Meliquina and Caleufú, and lakes Traful, Gutiérrez, Mascardi, Cholila, Futalaufquén (in Los Alerces National Park), Falkner, Villarino; Huechulafquén, Paimún, Epulafquén, Tromen (all in Lanín National Park); and, in the far north, Quillén. In the Lake District, the season lasts usually from November to April.

In Tierra del Fuego, huge brown trout can be fished from Río Grande and Lago Fagnano, while over the border in Chilean Tierra del Fuego, Lago Blanco is fast becoming popular. In the northeast, sorubim and giant pacu can be fished at the confluence of rivers Paraná and Paraguay, as well as dorado, known for its challenging fight. The closed season in this area is November to January.

On the Atlantic coast, San Blas is famous for shark fishing, for bacota shark and bull shark weighing up to 130 kg, while all along the coast, there’s good sea fishing. Fishing can also be found in other parts of the country and is offered by many estancias. Pejerrey, corvina and pescadilla can be found in large quantities along the coast of Buenos Aires province, and many of the reservoirs of the Central Sierras, the West and Northwest are well stocked. All rivers are ‘catch and release’ and to fish anywhere in Argentina, you need a permit.

For fishing licences, contact the Fly Fishing Association of Argentina, T011-4773 0821, www.aapm.org.ar. In Patagonia, there’s assistance from the National Parks Administration, T011-4311 8853/0303, www.parquesnacionales.gob.ar.

Horse riding

In a country that, in any given year, boasts the top five or 10 polo players in the world, the tradition of horse treks and horse riding is alive and strong. Offered all through the country, from Salta in the north to El Calafate in the south, horse-riding tours, or cabalgatas, vary in length and in quality. Generally speaking, if you visit an estancia or working farm that offers horse riding you’ll find healthy horses, huge expanses of land and the wind whistling through your hair. If you go with adventure tourism agencies, you may have an English-speaking guide more suited to beginners. Choose the best option to suit your level of experience.

One of the most challenging and spectacular horse treks traces the path that General San Martín and his soldiers took across the Andes near San Juan. Reaching up to 4000 m, and scaling the cliff edge, the five-day ride uses donkeys due to the harsh terrain.

See www.estanciasargentinas.com for estancias that offer horse riding.

Skiing

The ski season runs from mid-June to mid-October, but dates vary between resorts. The country’s best and deservedly most famous is Las Leñas, south of Mendoza, due to its long, varied and challenging pistes, its spectacular setting, superb accommodation, and also for having a dedicated snowboarding area. It’s also the most expensive place, so if you’re looking for a cheaper option in the same area, consider Los Penitentes, a more modest but friendly resort. There’s good skiing all along the Lake District, with the biggest centre at Cerro Catedral, near Bariloche. This is a huge resort with scope for cross-country skiing and snowboarding, and the advantages of a major town with excellent hotels and services. Nearby, the smaller but upmarket resorts of Cerro Bayo at Villa la Angostura and Cerro Chapelco at San Martín de los Andes have even more beautiful settings and cater for families. La Hoya, near Esquel, is much cheaper with a laid-back family feel. And at the end of the world, in Ushuaia, there’s great cross-country and downhill skiing at Cerro Castor. Details of all of these resorts are given in the text, together with websites.

ON THE ROAD

Tango

What was once the dance of immigrants from the Buenos Aires dockyards is now one of the most internationally recognizable aspects of Argentine culture. At the turn of the 19th century, the tango was seen as a dance practised by the lower classes in the streets and in brothels. And it wasn’t until Argentine sailors brought it to Europe through French ports that it started to become acceptable in polite society in Buenos Aires. A little later, in 1913, Europe was officially in the grips of a tango craze. In London, the Waldorf Hotel introduced Tango Teas in the same vein as the French Thés Dansants, and Selfridges held a successful Tango Ball. In Paris, women’s fashion was influenced by the dance, and shops sold tango stockings, tango hats and tango shoes. Even silent film star Rudolph Valentino danced it on-screen in 1921. Around this time, famous tango singer Carlos Gardel (whose name and face you’ll see throughout Buenos Aires; see also box, here) toured South America as well as Paris, Barcelona, Madrid and New York.

The so-called Golden Era for tango was from the 1930s to 1955 when a military coup ousted the president. From then onwards until the early 1980s, tango was in decline. It was ignored and even persecuted during the military dictatorship. Young people no longer wanted to dance it, and nearly two generations of Argentines grew up without learning it.

However, after years of neglect, the Argentine people have re-embraced the dance at all levels. One more influence is fuelling this vibrant resurgence: the hundreds of tourists from around the world who arrive every year anxious to learn, practise and live the dance. A recent movement, which is causing a small sensation, is gay tango, known as Tango Queer. Several gay milongas have started up and there is a constant stream of dancers eager to learn the sexy steps. Each year in August, Buenos Aires hosts a tango festival, which boasts the best international and local dancers, free displays, classes and the sale of all things tango.

Useful websites

www.welcomeargentina.com/tango/lugares.html For an overview of tango shows available.

www.festivales.buenosaires.gob.ar/en/tango Government website listing tango festivals.

www.festivaltangoqueer.com.ar Tango Queer festival in Buenos Aires.

www.history-of-tango.com Looks at the history of the dance.

www.buenosaires.gob.ar/la2x4 Website for tango radio station.

For general information on all resorts see www.welcomeargentina.com/ski and www.allaboutar.com/sports_skiing.htm.

Trekking

The whole of the west of the country, along the mountains of the Andes, offers superb opportunities for trekking. The Lake District in summer is the most rewarding because there are so many spectacular landscapes to explore within easy reach of the centres of Bariloche, El Bolsón and San Martín de los Andes. The national parks here are well set up for walkers, with good information and basic maps available, and refugios and campsites that provide convenient accommodation on longer hikes. However, it’s worth exploring the lesser-known extremes of the lakes, at Pehuenia in the north, with wonderful walks among the araucaria trees, and at Parque Nacional Los Alerces, with trekking into the virgin forest. All these walks are described in detail in the relevant areas. The season for walking is December to April.

The mountainous region to the west of Mendoza, around Aconcagua, offers good and challenging trekking, as well as further north in the Cordón del Plata in San Juan, where oasis villages in the valley are good bases for several peaks around Mercedario. Altitude sickness (see Health, here) can be a problem in these areas, and you should allow time in your schedule for adjustment.

Further north, in Salta and Jujuy, there’s a complete contrast of landscape. The puna to the west is dramatic desert, dropping to the arid and rocky mountainous landscape in the Quebrada de Humahuaca and, continuing east, there are cloudforests. It’s possible to walk through all three zones in a single extended expedition, though you’d need to go with a guide. Throughout the area there are attractive villages to use as bases for day walks. In the northeast, there are a few good walks in the national park of the Iguazú Falls, and many more good places to walk in the provinces to the south.

The centre of the country, in the sierras around Córdoba, are good for day walks, especially in the Traslasierra. In Patagonia, there are petrified forests and caves with prehistoric handprints to walk to, as well as the remoter reaches of Parque Nacional Perito Moreno. The most dramatic trekking is in the south of Patagonia, whether in the mountains around Cerro Fitz Roy or ice trekking on the glaciers themselves in Parque Nacional Los Glaciares. And near Ushuaia, there are unforgettable views from peaks in the Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego, along the shores of the Beagle Channel and from wilder peaks in mountains behind the town.

These are the highlights, but wherever you go in Argentina, you can find somewhere to trek. The spaces are wide open and there really are no limits.

Shops in large towns in Argentina stock clothes and camping supplies, but the following are things to consider taking. Clothing: a warm hat (wool or man-made fibre), wicking thermal underwear, T-shirts/shirts, trousers (quick-drying and preferably windproof), warm (wool or fleece) jumper/jacket (preferably two), gloves, waterproof jacket and overtrousers (preferably Gore-Tex), shorts, walking boots and socks, change of footwear or flip-flops. Camping gear: tent (capable of withstanding high winds), sleeping mat (closed cell, Karrimat, or inflatable, Thermarest), sleeping bag (three-season minimum), sleeping bag liner, stove and spare parts, fuel, matches and lighter, cooking and eating utensils, pan scrubber, survival bag. Food: take supplies for at least two days more than you plan to use; tea, coffee, sugar, dried milk, porridge, dried fruit, honey, soup, pasta, rice, soya (TVP), fresh fruit and vegetables, bread, cheese, crackers, biscuits, chocolate, salt, pepper, other herbs and spices, cooking oil. Miscellaneous: map and compass, torch and spare batteries, pen and notebook, Swiss army knife, sunglasses, sun cream, lip salve and insect repellent, first-aid kit, water bottle and towel.

Shopping tips

Best buys

Argentine fashion and leather goods are good value; shoes, sunglasses and outdoor gear too are reasonably priced, and if you have a free afternoon in Buenos Aires, it might be worth considering buying your holiday clothes here when you arrive: head straight for Palermo Viejo.

Tax free shopping is relatively easy and it’s worth following this simple procedure to get the IVA (VAT) returned to you at the airport as you leave the country: shop at places displaying the Global Blue TAX FREE sign. Before you pay, ask for the tax free refund form. The shop must fill this out for you as you pay. Keep this form, in the envelope they’ll give you, together with your receipt. At the airport, after security, and before passport control, look out for the tax free kiosk. Hand them all your tax free envelopes, with the receipts, and they will give them the customs stamp. Then once you’ve gone through passport control, look for the Refund Desk displaying the Global Blue logo, where your stamped forms will be taken, and the tax will be refunded either in cash or to your credit card (you can also mail in the forms and have the refund applied to your credit card). Not all shops offer this service; the ones that do usually have a sign up. See www.globalblue.com for more information.

Argentine specialities

In Buenos Aires, leather is the best buy, with many shops selling fine leather jackets, coats and trousers, as well as beautifully made bags and shoes. With a mixture of Italian-influenced design, and a flavour of the old gaucho leather-working traditions, there’s a strong emerging Argentine style.

Handicrafts, artesanía, are available all over the country, but vary from region to region. Traditional gaucho handicrafts include woven or plaited leather belts of excellent quality, as well as key rings and other pieces made of silver. These are small and distinctive and make excellent gifts. Look out, too, for the traditional baggy gaucho trousers, bombachas, comfortable for days in the saddle, and ranging from cheap sturdy cotton to smart versions with elaborate tucks.

Take home a mate, the hollowed gourd, often decorated, and the silver bombilla that goes with it, for drinking the national drink (see box, here). In the northwest there are beautifully made woven items: brightly coloured rugs, or saddle mats, and the country’s best ponchos. Look out for the hand-dyed and woven ponchos, instead of the mass-produced variety, available in smaller rural areas, or in the fine handicrafts market at Salta or Catamarca. There are the deep red Güemes versions or soft fine ponchos made of vicuña (a local cousin of the llama), usually in natural colours. In markets all over the northwest, you’ll find llama wool jumpers, hats and socks, and brightly coloured woven bags, Bolivian-influenced, but typical of the puna region. There are also fine carved wooden pieces.

In the Lake District too, there’s lots of woodwork, and weavings of a different kind, from the Mapuche peoples, with distinctive black and white patterns. Smoked fish and meat, and delicious home-made jams from sauco (elderberry) or frambuesa (raspberry) are among the local delicacies.

In the northeast, there are Guaraní handicrafts such as bows and arrows. Argentina’s national stone, the fleshy pink and marbled rhodochrosite, is mined in the northwest, but available all over Buenos Aires too, worked into fine jewellery, and less subtle paperweights and ashtrays.

Hikers have little to fear from the animal kingdom apart from insects, and robbery and assault are very rare. You are more of a threat to the environment than vice versa.

Note It’s best not to go hiking alone, as hiking areas in Argentina are generally far less visited than those in Europe, and if you twist an ankle, it might be a long time before someone finds you. So try to join up with other people, and always register with guardaparques (rangers) before you set off.

Visit www.parquesnacionales.gov.ar for more detailed information.

Whitewater rafting

There are some good whitewater-rafting runs in Mendoza province, near the provincial capital and near San Rafael and Malargüe. In the Lake District there are possibilities in the Lanín, Nahuel Huapi and Los Alerces national parks.

ON THE ROAD

Improve your travel photography

Taking pictures is a highlight for many travellers, yet too often the results turn out to be disappointing. Steve Davey, author of Footprint’s Travel Photography, sets out his top rules for coming home with pictures you can be proud of.

Before you go

Don’t waste precious travelling time and do your research before you leave. Find out what festivals or events might be happening or which day the weekly market takes place, and search online image sites such as Flickr to see whether places are best shot at the beginning or end of the day, and what vantage points you should consider.

Get up early

The quality of the light will be better in the few hours after sunrise and again before sunset – especially in the tropics when the sun will be harsh and unforgiving in the middle of the day. Sometimes seeing the sunrise is a part of the whole travel experience: sleep in and you will miss more than just photographs.

Stop and think

Don’t just click away without any thought. Pause for a few seconds before raising the camera and ask yourself what you are trying to show with your photograph. Think about what things you need to include in the frame to convey this meaning. Be prepared to move around your subject to get the best angle. Knowing the point of your picture is the first step to making sure that the person looking at the picture will know it too.

Compose your picture

Avoid simply dumping your subject in the centre of the frame every time you take a picture. If you compose with it to one side, then your picture can look more balanced. This will also allow you to show a significant background and make the picture more meaningful.

A good rule of thumb is to place your subject or any significant detail a third of the way into the frame; facing into the frame not out of it.

This rule also works for landscapes. Compose with the horizon two-thirds of the way up the frame if the foreground is the most interesting part of the picture; one-third of the way up if the sky is more striking.

Don’t get hung up with this so-called Rule of Thirds, though. Exaggerate it by pushing your subject out to the edge of the frame if it makes a more interesting picture; or if the sky is dull in a landscape, try cropping with the horizon near the very top of the frame.

Fill the frame

If you are going to focus on a detail or even a person’s face in a close-up portrait, then be bold and make sure that you fill the frame. This is often a case of physically getting in close. You can use a telephoto setting on a zoom lens but this can lead to pictures looking quite flat; moving in close is a lot more fun!

Interact with people

If you want to shoot evocative portraits then it is vital to approach people and seek permission in some way, even if it is just by smiling at someone. Spend a little time with them and they are likely to relax and look less stiff and formal. Action portraits where people are doing something, or environmental portraits, where they are set against a significant background, are a good way to achieve relaxed portraits. Interacting is a good way to find out more about people and their lives, creating memories as well as photographs.

Focus carefully

Your camera can focus quicker than you, but it doesn’t know which part of the picture you want to be in focus. If your camera is using the centre focus sensor then move the camera so it is over the subject and half press the button, then, holding it down, recompose the picture. This will lock the focus. Take the now correctly focused picture when you are ready.

Another technique for accurate focusing is to move the active sensor over your subject. Some cameras with touch-sensitive screens allow you to do this by simply clicking on the subject.

Leave light in the sky

Most good night photography is actually taken at dusk when there is some light and colour left in the sky; any lit portions of the picture will balance with the sky and any ambient lighting. There is only a very small window when this will happen, so get into position early, be prepared and keep shooting and reviewing the results. You can take pictures after this time, but avoid shots of tall towers in an inky black sky; crop in close on lit areas to fill the frame.

Bring it home safely

Digital images are inherently ephemeral: they can be deleted or corrupted in a heartbeat. The good news though is they can be copied just as easily. Wherever you travel, you should have a backup strategy. Cloud backups are popular, but make sure that you will have access to fast enough Wi-Fi. If you use RAW format, then you will need some sort of physical back-up. If you don’t travel with a laptop or tablet, then you can buy a backup drive that will copy directly from memory cards.

Recently updated and available in both digital and print formats, Footprint’s Travel Photography by Steve Davey covers everything you need to know about travelling with a camera, including simple post-processing. More information is available at www.footprinttravelguides.com.

Where

to stay

from self-catering cabañas to sheep estancias

Hotels and guesthouses may display a star rating, but this doesn’t necessarily match international standards. Many more expensive hotels charge different prices for extranjeros (non-Argentines) in US dollars, which is unavoidable since a passport is required as proof of residency. If you pay in cash (pesos) you may get a reduction. Room tax (VAT) is 21% and is not always included in the price (ask when you check in). All hotels will store luggage for a day, and most of the bigger hotels in cities have English-speaking staff.

For upmarket chain hotels throughout Argentina contact N/A Town & Country Hotels www.newage-hotels.com. For hostels, see Hostelling International Argentina Florida 835, T011-4511-8723, www.hostels.org.ar, Mon-Fri 0900-1900. HI no longer has a major presence in Argentina, but their website does provide a list of hostels, and a few of them still offer a discount to cardholders. For a complete listing of sleeping options, see www.welcomeargentina.com.

Price codes

Hotels, hosterías, residenciales and hospedajes

The standard of accommodation in Argentina is generally good, and although prices have risen in the last few years, decent hotels are generally excellent value for visitors. You’ll find that most cities and tourist towns list hotels and hosterías as separate: this is no reflection on quality or comfort, but simply on size: a hostería has fewer than 20 rooms. Both hotels and hosterías will have rooms with private bathrooms (usually showers rather than bath tubs, which you’ll find only in the more expensive establishments). Note that most Argentine hotels, even the five-star ones, do not provide tea and coffee-making services, nor do they always have minibars.

Prices often rise in high summer (January to February), at Easter and in July. During public holidays or high season you should always book ahead. A few of the more expensive hotels in Buenos Aires and major tourist centres such as Puerto Madryn, Bariloche and El Calafate charge foreigners higher prices than Argentines, which can be very frustrating, though there’s little you can do about it. If you’re given a price, ask if there’s a reduction if you pay in cash (as opposed to your card). Sometimes hotels offer cheaper deals through their websites: always check there first.

Most places now accept credit cards, but check before you come. It’s worth booking your first few nights’ accommodation before you arrive. Check where the hotel is located before you book. In El Calafate, for instance, some fabulous hotels are situated quite a distance out of town; unless you have a car, they might not be the right option for you.

Estancias

These are the large farms and cattle ranches found all over the country, many of them now open to tourists, which offer a marvellous insight into Argentine life. There’s a whole spectrum of estancias from a simple dwelling on the edge of a pristine lake in the Patagonian wilderness to a Loire-style chateau in the Pampas. In the province of Buenos Aires you will find estancias covering thousands of hectares of flat grassland with large herds of cattle and wind pumps to extract water; horse riding will certainly be offered and perhaps cattle-mustering. Some of the finest buildings are in this area, such as Dos Talas and La Porteña. In Patagonia there are giant sheep estancias overlooking glaciers, mountains and lakes, such as Helsingfors. There are estancias on Tierra del Fuego that are full of the history of the early pioneers who built them (like Harberton), while on the mainland nearby Estancia Monte Dinero has a colony of Magellanic penguins on its doorstep. There’s more wildlife close at hand in the estancias on Península Valdés. And in Salta, there are colonial-style fincas, whose land includes cloudforest with marvellous horse riding.

The most distinctive or representative estancias are mentioned in the text, but for more information see www.turismo.gob.ar (in English), the national tourist website with all estancias listed, and www.estanciasdesantacruz.com, a helpful agency which arranges estancia stays in Santa Cruz and the south, including transport. A useful book, Turismo en Estancias y Hosterías, is produced by Tierra Buena. You can, of course, contact estancias directly and reserve your stay, ideally with a couple of weeks’ notice. See also box, here.

Cabañas

These are a great option if you have transport and there are at least two of you. They are self-catering cottages, cabins or apartments, usually in rural areas, and often in superb locations, such as the Lake District. They’re tremendously popular among Argentine holidaymakers, who tend to travel in large groups of friends, or of several families together, and as a result the best cabañas are well-equipped and comfortable. They can be very economical too, especially for groups of four or more, but are feasible even for two, with considerable reductions off-season. If you’re travelling by public transport, cabañas are generally more difficult to get to, but ask the tourist office if there are any within walking or taxi distance. Throughout the Lake District, cabañas are plentiful and competitively priced.

Camping

Organized campsites are referred to in the text after the hotel listings for each town. Camping is very popular in Argentina (except in Buenos Aires) and there are many superbly situated sites, most with good services, whether municipal or private. There are many quieter, family-orientated places, but if you want a livelier time, look for a campsite (often by the beaches) with younger people, where there’s likely to be partying until the small hours. Camping is allowed at the side of major highways and in all national parks (except at Iguazú Falls), but in Patagonia strong winds can make camping very difficult. Wherever you camp, pack your rubbish and put out fires with earth and water. Fires are not allowed in many national parks because of the serious risk of forest fires. It’s a good idea to carry insect repellent.

If taking a cooker, the most frequent recommendation is a multi-fuel stove that will burn unleaded petrol or, if that is not available, kerosene or white fuel. Alcohol-burning stoves are reliable but slow and you have to carry a lot of fuel. Fuel can usually be found at chemists/pharmacies. Gas cylinders and bottles are usually exchangeable, but if not can be refilled; specify whether you use butane or propane. Gas canisters are not always available. White gas (bencina blanca) is readily available in hardware shops (ferreterías).

Food

& drink

meat parrilladas, Italian pizzas and traditional empanadas

Asados and parrillas

Not for vegetarians! The great classic meal throughout the country is the asado – beef or lamb cooked expertly over an open fire. This ritual is far more than a barbecue, and with luck you’ll be invited to sample an asado at a friend’s home or estancia to see how it’s done traditionally. Al asador is the way meat is cooked in the countryside, with a whole cow splayed out on a cross-shaped stick, stuck into the ground at an angle over the fire beneath. And in the parrilla restaurants, found all over Argentina, cuts of meat are grilled over an open fire in much the same way.

You can order any cuts from the range as individual meals, but if you order parrillada (usually for two or more people), you’ll be brought a selection; see box, here, for a list. You can ask for ‘cocido’ to have your meat well-done, ‘a punto’ for medium, and ‘jugoso’ for rare. Typical accompaniments are papas fritas (chips), salad and the spicy chimichurri sauce made from oil, chilli pepper, salt, garlic and vinegar.

For more on Argentine beef, see box, here.

Italian influences

It might seem that when Argentines aren’t eating meat, they’re eating pizza. Italian immigration has left a fine legacy in thick and crispy pizzas available from even the humblest pizza joint, adapted to the Argentine palate with some unusual toppings. Palmitos are tasty, slightly crunchy hearts of palm, usually tinned, and a popular Argentine delicacy, though they’re in short supply and the whole plant has to be sacrificed for one heart. They’re often accompanied on a pizza with the truly unspeakable salsa golf, a lurid mixture of tomato ketchup and mayonnaise. You’ll probably prefer excellent provolone or roquefort cheeses on your pizza – both Argentine and delicious.

Fresh pasta is widely available, bought ready to cook from dedicated shops. Raviolis are filled with ricotta, verduras (spinach), or cuatro quesos (four cheeses), and with a variety of sauces. These are a good option for vegetarians, who need not go hungry in this land of meat. Most restaurants have pasta casero – homemade pasta – and sauces without meat, such as fileto (tomato sauce) or pesto.

Menu reader

The basics

ají/pimiento chilli or green pepper

ajo garlic

arroz blanco boiled rice

bocadillo sandwich

calabaza squash

caldo clear soup, stock

camote yam

carne meat

carne picada minced meat

cebolla onion

cerdo pork

chicle chewing gum

chivo goat

cocido cooked

comer to eat

comida meal

cuchara spoon

cuchillo knife

dulce sweet

empanada/pastelito pasty, turnover

ensalada salad

frijoles/habichuelas beans

frito fried

guayaba guava

helado ice cream

horno baked

huevo egg

huevos revueltos scrambled eggs

jamón ham

legumbres/vegetales vegetables

limón lemon

longaniza/chorizo sausage

manteca butter

mermelada jam

naranja orange

palta avocado

pan bread

panadería bakery

papa potato

pavo turkey

picante hot, spicy

pimiento pepper

plancha grilled/griddled

pollo chicken

sal salt

salsa sauce

sin carne without meat

sopa soup

tenedor fork

torta cake

tostado toasted

Fish and seafood

albacore swordfish

camarones prawns

cangrejo crab

cazuela de marisco seafood stew

centolla king crab

ceviche raw fish marinated in lemon juice, is either made with corvina or salmon

congrio ling or kingclip; caldillo de congrio, a soup containing a large congrio steak

corvina bass

lenguado sole

manduví river fish with pale flesh

mariscos shellfish

merluza hake

pacú river fish with firm meaty flesh

pejerrey inland water fish

surubí a kind of catfish, tender flesh

Puddings (postre), cakes and pastries

alfajores soft maize-flour biscuits filled with jam

budín de pan a gooey dense bread pudding, often with dried fruit

dulce de batata a hard, dense, sweet potato jam, so thick you can carve it

dulce de leche the Argentine obsession – a sweet caramel made from boiling milk spread on toast, cakes and inside pastries

dulce de membrillo quince preserve

dulce de zapallo pumpkin in syrup

facturas pastries in general, bought by the dozen

flan crème caramel, an Argentine favourite

helados ice cream, served piled high in tiny cones

media luna croissant (dulce or salado – sweet or savoury)

torta cake (not to be confused with tarte: vegetable pie)

tortilla dry crumbly layered breakfast pastry (in northwest)

Parrilla and asado

The most important vocabulary is for the various cuts of meat in the asado, or barbecue, which you can eat at any parrilla or steakhouse.

achuras offal

bife ancho entrecôte steak

bife angosto sirloin

bife de chorizo or cuadril rumpsteak

cerdo pork

chinchulines entrails

chivito kid

chorizos beef sausages

cordero lamb

costilla pork chop

lomo fillet steak

molleja sweetbread

morcilla blood sausage

pollo chicken

riñón kidney

tira de asado ribs

vacío flank

Argentine specialities

bife a caballo steak with a fried egg on top

choripán hot dog, made with meat sausage

ciervo venison

cocina criolla typical Argentine food

empanadas small pasties, traditionally meat, but often made with cheese or other fillings

fiambre cold meats, hams, salami

guiso meat and vegetable stew

humitas a puree of sweetcorn, onions and cheese, wrapped in corn cob husks, steamed

jabalí wild boar

locro stew made with corn, onions, beans, and various cuts of meat, chicken or sausage

lomito sandwich of thin slice of steak in a bread roll, lomito completo comes with tomato, cheese, ham and egg

matambre stuffed flank steak with vegetables and hard-boiled eggs

milanesas breaded, boneless chicken or veal, found everywhere and good value

picada a selection of fiambre, cheeses and olives to accompany a drink

puchero meat stew; puchero de gallina is chicken, sausage, maize, potatoes and squash cooked together

tamales cornflour balls with meat and onion, wrapped in corn cob husks and boiled

tostados delicate toasted cheese and tomato sandwiches, often made from the soft crustless pan de miga

Ñoquis (gnocchi), potato dumplings normally served with tomato sauce, are cheap and delicious (traditionally eaten on the 29th of the month).

Vegetarian

Vegetables in Argentina are cheap, of excellent quality, many of them organic, and available fresh in verdulerías (vegetable shops) all over towns. Look out for acelga, a large-leafed chard with a strong flavour, often used to fill pasta, or tarta de verduras, vegetable pies, which you can buy everywhere, fresh and very good. Butternut squash, zapallo, is used to good effect in tartas and in filled pasta. Salads are quite safe to eat in restaurants, and fresh, although not wildly imaginative. Only in remote areas in the northwest of the country should you be wary of salads, since the water here is not reliable. In most large towns there are vegetarian restaurants and don’t forget the wonderful vegetarian empanadas such as cheese and onion, spinach or mushroom (see below).

Vegetarians must specify: ‘No como carne, ni jamón, ni pollo’ (‘I don’t eat meat, or ham, or chicken’), since many Argentines think that vegetarians will eat chicken or ham, and will certainly not take it seriously that you want to avoid all meat products.

Regional specialities

The Argentine speciality empanadas are tasty small semi-circular pies traditionally filled with meat, but now widely available filled with cheese, acelga (chard) or corn. They originate in Salta and Tucumán, where you’ll still find the best examples, but can be found all over the country as a starter in a parrilla, or ordered by the dozen to be delivered at home with drinks among friends.

Northwest Around Salta and Jujuy you’ll find superb humitas, parcels of sweetcorn and onions, steamed in the corn husk, and tamales, balls of cornflour filled with beef and onion, and similarly wrapped in corn husk leaves to be steamed. The other speciality of the region is locro – a thick stew made of maize, white beans, beef, sausages, pumpkin and herbs. Good fish is served in many areas of the country and along the east coast you’ll always be offered merluza (hake), lenguado (sole) and often salmon as well.

Atlantic coast If you go to Puerto Madryn or the Atlantic coast near Mar del Plata, then seafood is a must: arroz con mariscos is similar to paella and absolutely delicious. There will often be ostras (oysters) and centolla (king crab) on the menu too.

Lake District The trucha (trout) is very good and is best served grilled, but as with all Argentine fish you’ll be offered a bewildering range of sauces, such as roquefort, which rather drown the flavour. Also try the smoked trout and the wild boar. Berries are very good here in summer, with raspberries and strawberries abundant and flavoursome, particularly around El Bolsón. And in Puehuenia, you must try the pine nuts of the monkey puzzle trees: sacred food to the Mapuche people.

ON THE ROAD

Argentine beef

So how did Argentina come to be synonymous with great beef? Cattle certainly aren’t indigenous to the Pampas. But after Juan de Garay’s expedition in 1580 brought cattle from Paraguay, the animals roamed wild on the fertile plains, reproducing so quickly that by the time the Spanish returned in 1780, there were 40 million of them. But by then, local indigenous groups were making a roaring trade, driving herds of cattle through the Andean passes to sell in southern Chile. Gauchos, meanwhile, were hunting cattle with the use of boleadoras (a lasso with three stone balls), and slaughtering them by the thousand for their hides alone, sometimes leaving the meat to rot. When salting plants – saladeros – arrived in 1810, the hides were transported to Europe, together with tallow for candles. The meat was turned into charqui, cut into strips, dried and salted, and sold to feed slaves in Brazil and Cuba. It was only with the invention of refrigerated ships that Argentina’s produce was exported to meet the growing demand for beef in an expanding Europe. Cattle farmers introduced new breeds to replace the scrawny Pampas cattle, and sowed alfalfa as richer fodder than Pampas grasses. Today Herefords and Aberdeen Angus are still bred for meat.

And why is Argentine beef so good? Because these cows are healthy! With such vast expanses of land to roam, the cattle burn off any fat, are well-toned and lean: the meat is even high in omega 3. So head straight for the best parrilla in town, and, unless you’re vegetarian, try a few different cuts. Better still, stay at an estancia to try home-reared beef cooked on the asado, the traditional way over an open wood fire. A word of warning: learn some of the names for the parts of a cow so you don’t end up eating hoof, intestines or glands. See the Menu reader, here.

Northeast In the northeast, there are some superb river fish to try: pacú is a large, firm fleshed fish with lots of bones, but very tasty. The other great speciality is surubí, a kind of catfish, particularly good cooked delicately in banana leaves.

Desserts

Argentines have a sweet tooth, and are passionate about dulce de leche – milk and sugar evaporated to a pale, soft caramel, and found on all cakes, pastries, and even for breakfast. If you like this, you’ll be delighted by facturas and other pastries, stuffed with dulce de leche, jams of various kinds, and sweet cream fillings. Helado (ice cream) is really excellent in Argentina, and for US$2-3 in any heladería, you’ll get two flavours, from a huge range, piled up high on a tiny cone; an unmissable treat. Jauja (El Bolsón) and Persicco (Buenos Aires) are the best makes, and there are many great options in Rosario, a city renowned for its ice cream.

Other popular desserts are dulce de batata (sweet potato jam), dulce de membrillo (quince preserve) and dulce de zapallo (pumpkin in syrup). All are eaten with cheese. The most loved of all is flan, which is not a flan at all but crème caramel, often served on a pool of caramelized sugar, and dulce de leche. Every Argentine loves alfajores, soft maize-flour biscuits filled with dulce de leche or apricot jam, and then coated with chocolate, especially if they’re the Havanna brand.

ON THE ROAD

The mate ritual

Mate (pronounced mattay) is the essential Argentine drink. All over the country, whenever groups of Argentines get together, they share a mate. It’s an essential part of your trip to Argentina that you give it a go, at least once. It’s a bitter green tea made from the leaves of the yerba mate plant, Ilex paraguaiensis, and is mildly stimulating, less so than caffeine, and effective