Northern Spain

Planning your trip

This is Northern Spain

Best of Northern Spain

Route planner

When to go

What to do

Where to stay

Food and drink

País Vasco

Bilbao/Bilbo

Alava Province

Guipúzcoan Coast

Vizcayan Coast

Vitoria/Gasteiz

Alava Province

Navarra

Pamplona/Iruña

Western Pyrenees

Camino Aragonés

Western Pilgrim Route

Southern Navarra

Northern Aragón

Zaragoza

Northwest from Zaragoza

Huesca and around

East of Huesca

Western Pyrenean valleys

Eastern Pyrenean valleys

La Rioja

Logroño

La Rioja Baja

La Rioja Alta

Pilgrim route to Santiago

Castilla y León

Burgos and around

Burgos Province

Palencia

North towards Santander

León

León Province

Soria and around

Along the Duero

Valladolid

West of Valladolid

Zamora

Salamanca

Cantabria and Picos de Europa

Santander and around

West Coast of Cantabria

Los Picos de Europa

Asturian Picos

Cantabrian Picos

Leonese Picos

Asturias

Oviedo and around

Gijón and Avilés

Western Asturias

East Coast Asturias

Galicia

The Galician Camino and Lugo

Santiago de Compostela

Rías Altas

A Coruña and the Costa da Morte

Rías Baixas

Pontevedra and Vigo

Miño Valley

Background

History

Economy

Culture

Land and environment

Books

Practicalities

Getting there

Getting around

Essentials A-Z

Footnotes

Index

Best of

Northern Spain

top things to do and see

Bilbao

The largest city of the Basque region is a masterclass on urban regeneration. Led by the gleaming Guggenheim gallery, this former industrial port has a captivating energy along its riverbanks and in the warren of narrow streets in its old town, allied to an excellent eating and cultural scene. See here.

San Sebastián

Draped elegantly around a bay, San Sebastián is the gourmet capital of Spain, with a fistful of wonderful restaurants and a glorious culture of elaborate bar food. Historically a summering place for royalty, it preserves a belle époque elegance along the promenade that backs its excellent city beach. See here.

Rioja wine region

Spain’s most famous vineyards have woken up to wine tourism in a big way. From traditional catacomb-style bodegas to striking modern wineries and boutique oeno-resorts, there’s a wealth of options. The region’s medieval hilltop towns and villages offer bags of character too. See here and here.

Fiesta de San Fermín

Made famous by Ernest Hemingway, Pamplona’s main festival sees this ordinarily placid capital of Navarra go mad for nine days of bull-running and wine-swilling in July. It’s wonderfully festive, particularly if you get out of the debauch of the centre to find a more local scene. See here.

Aragonese Pyrenees

The most magnificent part of this breathtakingly splendid mountain range is in northern Aragón. Rugged peaks frame a series of captivating valleys where characterful medieval villages serve as bases for some wonderful walking. In winter, a number of resorts provide some of Spain’s best and most reliable skiing. See here.

León’s cathedral

Among the region’s many sublime cathedrals, the monument crowning the lovely city of León stands out for its inspiring assemblage of stained glass. It’s an extraordinary sight that pushed the Gothic dream of space and light to an almost unworkable extreme. See here.

Soria

Well off the beaten track, little Soria is one of Spain’s smallest and least-visited provincial capitals. It’s a charming place with an attractive centre filled with architectural interest, particularly its well-proportioned Romanesque churches. Hearty local roast lamb combats the freezing winters here. See here.

Salamanca

This is possibly Spain’s most beautiful city, with an utterly harmonious Plaza Mayor and a wealth of Renaissance architectural treasures. It’s an old university town, with a buzzy feel around its centre, a pleasing tapas culture and two adjacent cathedrals. See here.

Los Picos de Europa

This spectacular limestone massif looms behind the north coastline. Small in area but high and craggy, it’s a deservedly eulogized mountain destination. At the boundary of three regions, it offers excellent walking, sublime scenery, historic monasteries, piquant local cheeses and hearty highland cooking in its characterful villages. See here.

Gijón and the Asturian coast

Asturias is a magical land with Celtic roots and verdant hills backing excellent beaches. Free-flowing cider and delicious seafood make it one of Spain’s most gastronomically pleasurable destinations, while the lively beach city of Gijón and the pretty fishing villages of its shore are full of atmosphere. See here and here.

Santiago de Compostela

If you’re going to walk all the way across Spain, you’d hope the destination was worthwhile. And it is: this small, captivating granite city has a heart-winning old centre, a magnificent cathedral and a tangible loveliness that lives long in the memory. See here.

A Coruña

Shimmering in the light, this northwestern city belongs to the sea that surrounds it. A Coruña’s superb natural setting and great beach are allied to fine architecture, interesting attractions and an unforgettable tapas scene based on its traditional octopus eateries. See here.

Carnaval at Laza, near Verín, Galicia.

Route

planner

putting it all together

In such a large and diverse region, where you choose to go is a matter of what intrigues you. The green, gourmet Basque homeland contrasts with the drier, more traditionally ‘Spanish’ Castilla, replete with churches and castles. Galicia faces the Atlantic with the gruff melancholy of a fisherman riding out a storm, Asturias burbles with cider and good cheer while Navarra and Aragón rise into the majestic Pyrenees.

One week

a foodie capital, fine wine and surf beaches

If you’re on a short break from Britain, the Basque Country offers easy budget flights, short distances and an excellent variety of attractions. Bilbao itself, and its superb Guggenheim museum, shouldn’t be missed. San Sebastián is languidly attractive with a brilliant gourmet scene, the coast is very beautiful, the Basque mountains green and wild, and the Rioja wine country within easy reach. It’s also one of the few regions that is easy to get around without your own transport.

Another appealing option would be to fly to Asturias and explore the Gijón, Oviedo and Avilés triangle, with great seafood and animated cider bars bolstering the fine old towns and crashing surf. Or you could follow the region’s jagged coastline and Celtic culture into Galicia, to munch barnacles and octopus and savour the aromas of Albariño white wines.

Urdaibai estuary, Basque Country.

Two weeks

verdant mountain ranges and magnificent cathedrals

With more time at your disposal the main decision is colour: the green hills of the north coast, or the fascinating towns of the thirsty brown meseta. Fly into Bilbao and head west, exploring coastal towns such as Castro Urdiales, Santillana del Mar and Cudillero, as well as the cities of Santander, Oviedo and Gijón. The Picos de Europa mountains are within easy reach, too. Once in Galicia, head to A Coruña, one of the most pleasant cities of Northern Spain, then to Santiago before heading back, perhaps taking in one of the inland cities, such as lovely León. This itinerary is suitable for driving, but another excellent coastal option is the slow but scenic FEVE train.

Exploring Castilla is another fortnight well spent. Investigate Valladolid’s wealth of historical associations before tracking west to Salamanca, one of Europe’s most attractive towns. Next take a circle through Zamora, León, Burgos and Soria, then head back along the Duero river via towns such as Burgo de Osma and Peñafiel, the latter the capital of one of Spain’s best wine regions.

If architecture is your thing, following the Camino de Santiago is very rewarding, whether on foot or bike on the pilgrim trail, or by car or public transport. The route takes in many of the finest cathedrals of the north at León, Burgos, Jaca and Santiago itself, as well as a superb series of Romanesque churches in places like Estella and Frómista.

For the great outdoors, the Pyrenees are an obvious attraction; you could easily spend a week or fortnight exploring the area in northern Navarra and Aragón. Not far away, Alquézar will appeal to canyoning fans. The Picos de Europa are smaller but equally picturesque.

If wine is a passion, start in Bilbao and head east along the coast to foodie capital San Sebastián through Txakolí country before tracking south past Vitoria to the Basque Rioja. Stay in the atmospheric walled town of Laguardia for a couple of days, and then explore the wineries around Haro and Logroño. Afterwards, head southwest to Peñafiel to sample the superb Ribera del Duero reds and on to Galicia via Toro, whose reds are making waves, and Ponferrada, centre of the Bierzo wine region. Stay in Ourense drinking Ribeiros, before continuing west to the Rías Baixas for their superb Albariños.

Cudillero Opposite page

Three to four weeks

from the Basque Country to Galician beaches

Combine a couple of the above itineraries. A good month’s trip would start in the Basque country, going west along the coast and taking in the Picos de Europa on the way, and then Galicia and its rugged shoreline. From here, head across to León, and then south to Zamora and Salamanca. Make your way east along the Duero Valley to Soria, then cut into Aragón and head to the Pyrenees for some fresh air after the heat of the meseta.

Oviedo

Iglesia de la Magdalena, Zamora

Santander

San Sebastián

Camino de

Santiago

The revival of the medieval pilgrim route to Santiago’s magnificent cathedral has been striking. Today’s peregrinos come from all backgrounds; some seek spiritual redemption, others time to think, and yet others just a good long walk. It’s a fantastic way to see Northern Spain; the route crosses the whole region, taking in the Pyrenees, lush Galicia, historic Castilla and many of the area’s most picturesque villages and interesting towns. There’s a huge variety of routes to choose from.

Scallop sign

The full principal route from Roncesvalles to Santiago is some 800 km, which translates to a walk of four to five weeks or a cycle ride of a fortnight. Many pilgrims do the journey in stages, a week each year, or just do the last bit, from León or Ponferrada.

Camino Francés

The most travelled route, and the one with the most pilgrim facilities, is the Camino Francés. Originating in the French town of St Jean Pied-de-Port in the Pyrenees, it crosses a pass to Roncesvalles then descends the Navarran valley to Pamplona. Heading southwest, it passes through Puente la Reina and Estella, near which is a tap dispensing red wine to thirsty travellers. Then it goes to Logroño, capital of the Rioja region.

Once out of La Rioja, the meseta plain kicks in. The next major stop is Burgos, followed by villages all bursting with Romanesque architecture. León province follows, and the city itself, a good rest stop reached by walkers 17-20 days into the journey. Pilgrims continue to Ponferrada, and then the last, long climb begins into the Galician mountains, one of the route’s prettiest sections. From there, it’s up and down over the rolling hills of central Galicia to the granite towers of Santiago’s cathedral and, for some, the coast at Finisterre.

Alto del Perdón, Navarra

Casa de las Conchas, Salamanca

Alternative routes

Other routes have the benefit of far fewer high-season pilgrims. The Confraternity of Saint James, www.csj.org.uk, is a useful organization that issues Pilgrim Passports and sells guides to the pilgrim routes. The website is also helpful for further information on the Camino. Also see www.caminodesantiago.consumer.es (in Spanish). For practical information, see box here, and relevant sections throughout the book.

Like the Camino Francés, the Camino Aragonés is also popular, differing only initially as it crosses into Spain in a more spectacular section of the Pyrenees. It joins the Camino Francés in Navarra.

A less used but very scenic route, the Camino del Norte follows the Basque, Cantabrian, and Asturian coasts before cutting across Galicia. It’s the toughest of the major routes, with lots of hills, but there’s the consolation of taking a dip in the sea at the end of a tough walk. It also takes in several interesting cities: San Sebastián, Bilbao, Santander and Gijón.

The Ruta de la Plata originates in Sevilla and crosses Extremadura before reaching Salamanca and Zamora. It then cuts across northwest to join the Camino Francés at Astorga.

The Camino Primitivo starts from Oviedo, and heads west across Asturias to Lugo in Galicia then down to Santiago. The walk from Oviedo to León, known as the Camino de San Salvador, is also worthwhile.

The Camino Portugués starts from Porto and heads north: this is a good way to see the southern part of Galicia. For the northern coast, the Camino Inglés starts at A Coruña (where English pilgrims arriving by boat traditionally disembarked) and tracks south.

There are many more routes, including the Camino Vasco, which cuts across the Basque Country. In fact, all over the region there are albergues and marked routes.

Santiago de Compostela

When

to go

… and when not to

Climate

In July and August it’ll be pleasantly warm on the coast and in the mountains (although you’re likely to see rain in both areas), and very hot in Castilla and La Rioja – expect days in the mid to high 30s, if not higher. The whole of Spain is busy during these two months and, while the north isn’t ridiculously crowded, you’ll need to reserve rooms in advance, for which you’ll be paying slightly higher prices, and significantly higher on the coast. That said, it’s an enjoyable time to be in the country as there are dozens of fiestas, and everything happens outdoors.

June is a good time too, with milder weather and far fewer crowds, as Spanish holidays haven’t started. Spring (apart from Easter week) is also quiet, and not too hot, although expect coastal showers if not serious rain. In the mountains, there may still be snow. Autumn is a good all-round time. Prices on the coast are slashed (although many hotels shut), and there are few tourists. The weather is unpredictable at this time: cool, crisp days in the mountains are likely, but on the coast you could get a week of warm sun or a fortnight of unrelenting drizzle. The cities of the interior are likely to be dry but cold – temperatures can drop below zero at night as early as October in places like Burgos and León. A bonus is that flights are cheap at these times.

In winter, temperatures are mild on the coast and cold inland. Accommodation is cheap, but many places in the mountains and on the coast are closed. Skiing starts in earnest in late January.

See also the weather charts for each region in individual chapters.

Festivals

Even the smallest village in Spain has a fiesta, and some have several. Although mostly nominally religious in nature, they usually include the works; a Mass and procession or two to be sure, but also live music, bullfights, competitions, fireworks and copious drinking of calimocho/kalimotxo, a mix of red wine and cola (not as bad as it sounds). A feature of many are the gigantes y cabezudos, huge-headed papier-mâché figures based on historical personages who feature in parades. Adding to the sense of fun are peñas, boisterous social clubs who patrol the streets making music, get rowdy at the bullfights and drink wine all night and day. Most fiestas are in summer, and if you’re spending much time in Spain in that period you’re bound to run into one; expect some trouble finding accommodation. Details of the major town fiestas can be found in the Listings sections for individual towns and cities. National holidays and long weekends (puentes) can be difficult times to travel; it’s important to reserve tickets in advance.