Lonely Planet St Petersburg

St Petersburg

Contents

Plan Your Trip

Welcome to St Petersburg

St Petersburg's Top 10

What's New

Need to Know

First Time St Petersburg

Getting Around

Top Itineraries

If You Like...

Month by Month

With Kids

Money-Saving Tips

Visas

Tours & Activities

Visiting on a Cruise

Travelling to Moscow

Museums & Galleries

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Explore

Neighbourhoods at a Glance

Historic Heart

Sights

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Sports & Activities

Kazan Cathedral

Stroganov Palace

Nevsky Prospekt

Sennaya & Kolomna

Sights

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Sports & Activities

Smolny & Vosstaniya

Sights

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Sports & Activities

Vasilyevsky Island

Sights

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Shopping

Sports & Activities

Petrograd & Vyborg Sides

Sights

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Sports & Activities

Metro Art

Admiralteyskaya

Avtovo

Baltiyskaya

Kirovsky Zavod

Narvskaya

Pl Vosstaniya

Pushkinskaya

Tekhnologichesky Institut

Day Trips from St Petersburg

Vyborg

Repino

Kronshtadt

Sleeping

Understand

Understand St Petersburg

St Petersburg Today

History

Architecture

Arts

Literature

Survive

Transport

Arriving in St Petersburg

Getting Around

Directory AZ

Customs Regulations

Discount Cards

Electricity

Embassies & Consulates

Emergency

Health

Internet Access

Legal Matters

LGBT Travellers

Medical Services

Money

Opening Hours

Post

Public Holidays

Safe Travel

Telephone

Time

Toilets

Tourist Information

Travellers with Disabilities

Visas

Women Travellers

Language

St Petersburg Maps

Historic Heart

Smolny & Vosstaniya

Sennaya & Kolomna

Petrograd & Vyborg Sides

Vasilevsky Island

Table of Contents

Behind the Scenes

Our Writers

Special Features

History of the Hermitage

Welcome to St Petersburg

The sheer grandeur and history of Russia's imperial capital never fail to amaze, but this is also a city with a revolutionary spirit.

City of the Tsars

The creation of westward-looking Peter the Great, St Petersburg was intended from its inception as a display of imperial Russia’s growing status in the world. Fine-tuned by Peter’s successors, who employed a host of European architects to add fabulous palaces and cathedrals to the city’s layout, St Petersburg grew to be the Romanovs’ showcase capital and Russia’s first great, modern city. The capital may have moved back to Moscow following the revolution, but despite all that history has thrown at it, St Petersburg still feels every bit the imperial city with its historic heart largely frozen in time.

olga sushkova / 500px ©

Venice of the North

Whether you’re cruising along the elegant canals, crossing one of the 342 bridges in the city, or just watching them being raised in summer over the mighty Neva River at night to allow ships to pass through, you’re never far from water in St Petersburg. This has earned the city unsurprising comparisons to Venice, but the similarities don’t stop there: walking around the historic centre will reveal canals lined by Italianate mansions and broken up by striking plazas adorned with baroque and neoclassical palaces. North of the city centre there are also pristine beaches fringing the Gulf of Finland.

gary latham / lonely planet ©

Artistic Powerhouse

St Petersburg is an almost unrivalled treasure trove of art and culture. You can spend days in the Hermitage, seeing everything from Egyptian mummies to Picassos, while the Russian Museum, spread over four sumptuous palaces, is perhaps the best collection of Russian art in the world. Add to this world-class ballet, opera and classical concerts at the illustrious performance halls, and a slew of big-name music festivals over the summer months, and you won’t be stuck for cultural nourishment. Contemporary art is also available at the fantastic Erarta Museum, the Street Art Museum and in the buzzing gallery scene.

dmitry raikin / shutterstock ©

All Seasons City

Summer White Nights are legendary: the northern sun barely dips below the horizon. Revelry begins in May, with parks and gardens greening with flowering trees, and peaks in mid-June when performing arts festivals pack out concert halls and the entire city seems to party all night long. It's the busiest time to visit and the crowds can often be overwhelming. But Piter, as the city is affectionately known, is just as beautiful in early spring, golden autumn and even winter: the skies may be leaden and the ground covered in snow, but the culture still dazzles and delights.

Church of the Saviour on the Spilled Blood | amos chapple/GETTY IMAGES ©

Why I Love St Petersburg

By Simon Richmond, Writer

Little of importance has changed in St Petersburg since I first visited in 1994. It remains a city of majestic architecture, high artistic culture and historical significance. I will never tire of exploring the amazing art collections of the Hermitage and the Russian Museum nor be bored by the grand facades and the reflections of palaces in the canals. Over time it's just got better and better with a brilliant restaurant, bar and cafe scene and exciting creative design clusters. The long nights of partying are simply icing on this, the most elegant of urban cakes.

St Petersburg's Top 10

White Nights

1In mid-June the sun slumps lazily towards the horizon, but never fully sets, meaning that the magical nights are a wonderful whitish-grey. At this time Petersburgers indulge themselves in plenty of all-night revelry, several arts festivals take place including the spectacular Scarlet Sails (Алые паруса hJun). Though it’s the busiest time to visit the city, and most hotels are booked up weeks in advance, there’s nothing quite like it, so don’t miss out – even if you come in May or July you’ll be impressed by how late the sun stays out!

drozdin vladimir / GETTY IMAGES ©

St Petersburg's Top 10

The Hermitage

2Perhaps the world’s greatest museum , this iconic establishment’s vast collection is quite simply mind-boggling, with Egyptian mummies, more Rembrandts than the Louvre, and a collection of early-20th-century art that is unrivalled by almost any other in the world. As if this wasn’t enough, your entry ticket allows you to walk around the fascinating apartments and dazzling staterooms of the Romanovs. On top of this, there are still other Hermitage sites: the Winter Palace of Peter I, General Staff Building, Menshikov Palace, Imperial Porcelain factory and the excellent Hermitage Storage Facility.

gonzalo azumendi / GETTY IMAGES ©

St Petersburg's Top 10

St Isaac’s View

3No other viewpoint of the historic centre beats the one from the rotunda surrounding the stunning gold dome of St Isaac’s Cathedral , which rises majestically over the uniformly sized Italianate palaces and mansions around the Admiralty. Well worth the climb up the 262 steps, a panorama of the city opens up to you – with fantastic views over the river, the Winter Palace and the Bronze Horseman . The cathedral’s interior is also well worth seeing, with a wonderfully over-the-top iconostasis framed by columns of marble, malachite and lazurite.

olgysha / shutterstock ©

St Petersburg's Top 10

Russian Museum

4Even though the Hermitage is unrivalled as St Petersburg’s most impressive museum, that shouldn’t stop you from visiting this superb treasure trove of Russian art, spread out over four stunning palaces in the centre of the city. The main building, the Mikhailovsky Palace, presents a fascinating collection of Russian art from medieval icons to 20th-century avant-garde masterpieces, while the Marble Palace houses a wing of the Ludwig Museum with a focus on contemporary works, and the Stroganov Palace has some of the most spectacular interiors in the city.

vserg48 / shutterstock ©

St Petersburg's Top 10

Church of the Saviour on the Spilled Blood

5As much a symbol of the city as the Winter Palace, the spellbinding Church of the Saviour on the Spilled Blood never fails to impress. The church was built to commemorate the death of Tsar Alexander II, who, in an event that gave the church its unusual name, was attacked here by a terrorist group and later died of his injuries in 1881. Despite its grisly heritage, the glittering, multicoloured onion domes, and intricate interior and exterior mosaics are quite simply stunning, and have to be seen to be believed.

viacheslav lopatin / shutterstock ©

St Petersburg's Top 10

Tsarskoe Selo

6Arguably the most beautiful of the tsarist palace areas that surround St Petersburg, Tsarskoe Selo can be an idyllic place for a day trip. Arrive in good time to see the lavish interiors of the Catherine Palace, including the famous Amber Room, enjoy the gorgeous formal gardens and have a picnic in the landscaped park where Catherine the Great so loved to walk. When it gets impossibly busy at the height of summer, retreat to the nearby scenic estate and palace of Pavlovsk, a beautiful place to escape the crowds.

gumbao / shutterstock ©

St Petersburg's Top 10

Mariinsky Ballet

7What could be more Russian than seeing a ballet or opera at the city’s famous Mariinsky Theatre ? Formerly known as the Kirov, where Soviet stars such as Nureyev and Baryshnikov danced, the Mariinsky has one of the world's premier ballet troupes as well as a superb orchestra led by artistic director Valery Gergiev. Tickets for productions here are always sought-after, so book online before you travel to ensure you don’t miss out. Even if such performances are not your thing, the historic building is a sight in its own right.

danita delimont stock / age fotostock ©

St Petersburg's Top 10

Peter & Paul Fortress

8The city’s first major building is on little Zayachy Island. It’s immediately recognisable from its extraordinary golden spire, visible all over the city centre at an incredible (for the 18th century) 122m high. A visit to this large complex is a must for history buffs: here you'll find the tombs of the Romanovs and an excellent history museum; make time, too, for a walk along the ramparts. You can even relax on a surprisingly decent beach with stellar views across to the Strelka and Hermitage!

alexandr medvedkov / shutterstock ©

St Petersburg's Top 10

Cruising the Canals

9St Petersburg is a city that is best appreciated from the water. Despite Peter’s efforts, public boat transport by river and canal never quite caught on in the ‘Venice of the North’. Even so, don't miss a canal-boat tour or, better yet, paddling yourself in a kayak to see some of the city's architectural gems from a different perspective. While cruising the canals is only possible outside the winter months, if you're here when they're frozen over don't miss wandering along their banks for a visual treat.

lyudmila2509 / shutterstock ©

St Petersburg's Top 10

Taking a Banya

10 For a real cultural immersion, head to one of St Petersburg's bani (steam baths), such as the classy Degtyarniye Baths , for the detox of a lifetime. In between basking in the infernal wet heat of the parilka (steam room), having your toxins removed through a sound birch-twig whipping and then plunging into ice-cold water, this is a great place to relax and chat with locals for whom the weekly banya (steam bath) is considered to be almost a sacred rite.

aleksei kazachok / shutterstock ©

What's New

Creative Clusters

As the decade-old Loft Project ETAGI expands out into a village of converted shipping containers, other 'creative clusters' are popping up like daisies and include the vibey Golitsyn Loft on the Fontanka, Artmuza on Vasilyevsky Island and Hi-Hat on the Petrograd Side.

New Holland

With the opening of its creative hub the Bottle House in summer 2017, this superb new city park and cultural centre is shaping up to be one of the city's top destinations.

Secret Bars

The trend for in-the-know speakeasy-style cocktail bars gathers pace with reservation-necessary late-night spots such as Kvartira Kosti Kroitsa and Kabinet.

Craft Beer

Piter has embraced the craft-beer revolution sweeping Russia: check out the range of local brews at bars Redrum, Farsh & Bochka and Beer Boutique 1516 among other places.

Commode

The logical next step in the anti-cafe phenomenon, you pay for time spent at this so-called self-cost bar where drink prices are low.

Lumiere Hall

Slump into a bean bag to enjoy massive 3D art projections in this 360-degree space, with audio commentary on the works displayed.

Amazing Scale Models

Grand Maket is a staggering look at Russia in miniature while the same company has created a mini St Petersburg of the 18th century at Petrovskaya Akvatoria.

Western High-Speed Diameter

Two of Russia's largest suspension bridges, part of a new orbital toll road, facilitate a spectacular crossing of the Neva River's mouth so you can see parts of the city as they have never been seen before.

Lakhta Center

A free public observation deck will allow you to look down on the city from 357m in Russia's tallest building when it likely opens at the end of 2018 (http://lakhta.center).

New Stage

The Alexandrinsky's New Stage offers up contemporary dance, theatre, workshops and rooftop cinema in the summer in a gorgeous light-filled building.

Piter Kayak

Get some early morning or evening exercise and take in the wonderful views on these guided paddles along the city's rivers and canals.

MISP

Multifloored gallery staging intriguing exhibitions, showcasing the talents of local artists over the last century.

Need to Know

Currency

Rouble (R)

Language

Russian

Visas

Nearly all visitors need a visa, which will require an invitation. Tourist visas are generally single entry and valid for up to 30 days.

Money

ATMs are widespread, and credit cards accepted in most restaurants, cafes and shops.

Mobile Phones

Local SIM cards (giving internet data as well as calls) can be bought for as little as R200 and used in unlocked phones.

Time

Moscow Time (GMT/USC plus three hours)

Tourist Information

Tourist Information Bureau ( mGostiny Dvor) Maps, tours, information and advice for travellers.

When to Go

May to September is best, with White Nights the peak. Winter is cold and dark, but beautiful. Go in early May, September and October to avoid the crowds.

Daily Costs

Budget: Less than R1500

A Dorm bed: R800

A Cafe or street-stall meal: R200–R500

A Travel on buses and metro: R40-45

Midrange: R1500–R15,000

A Double room in a midrange hotel: R3000-15,000

A Two-course meal: R1000

A Museum entry fee: R100–R400

A City-centre taxi ride: R150

Top End: Over R15,000

A Double room in a top-end hotel: R15000+

A Two-course meal with wine: R2000+

A Ballet tickets: R3500

A First-class train ticket, Moscow–St Petersburg: R7300

Advance Planning

Three months before Get working on your visa. Book hotel rooms for the White Nights.

One month before Book hotel rooms during the rest of the year, Mariinsky and other theatre tickets during the summer months.

One week before Buy your Hermitage ticket online and print it out. Add useful apps such as Google Translate and Yandex Taxi to your smartphone.

Useful Websites

Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/russia/st-petersburg) Destination information, hotel bookings, traveller forum and more.

In Your Pocket St Petersburg (www.inyourpocket.com/russia/st-petersburg) Excellent local guide.

Visit Petersburg (www.visit-petersburg.ru) City's official tourist information site.

A-a-ah! (www.a-a-ah.com) Listings for cool places and activities in St Petersburg.

Arriving in St Petersburg

Pulkovo Airport From St Petersburg's superb airport, an official taxi to the centre should cost between R800 and R1000; if you book one via an app it's likely to be R700. Alternatively, take bus 39 (35 minutes) or 39A (20 minutes) to Moskovskaya metro station for R35, then take the metro from Moskovskaya (Line 2) all over the city for R45.

Moscow Station (Moskovsky vokzal) Easy connection to the nearby pl Vosstaniya (Line 1) and Mayakovskaya (Line 3) metro stations.

Finland Station (Finlyandsky vokzal) Direct connection to the pl Lenina (Line 1) metro station.

Boat Terminals Taxis are easily caught at all cruise terminals in St Petersburg, but all are within walking distance of metro stations or have bus routes passing nearby.

Etiquette

A Meeting People Handshakes are the standard form of greeting. Do not shake hands over thresholds, though, as according to Russian folklore this will lead to an argument down the line! Remove your shoes and coat when arriving in someone's home.

A Presents If you're visiting friends in their home it's courteous to bring a small present. Flowers are always popular, but do be sure to bring an odd number, as even numbers of flowers are given only at funerals.

A Drinking You'll be expected to drink a vodka shot in one go if you're a man, but women will not be judged too harshly if they sip. Once a bottle is finished, put it on the floor, not back on the table, as that is considered to bring bad luck.

Sleeping

St Petersburg has seen an explosion of appealing accommodation options in recent years. However, if you’re travelling in summer (particularly during the White Nights), book in advance. Hostels are now plentiful in the city – standards can vary hugely between them, but the very best are superb. Minihotels are a local speciality – usually housed in old apartments with fewer than six guestrooms – and can be both charming and great value. Hotels in St Petersburg tend to be relatively expensive (eye-wateringly so in the four- and five-star categories); the best deals are often available on hotel websites.

Useful Websites

A Airbnb ( airbnb.com ) A big player with a big presence in St Petersburg.

A HOFA ( www.hofa.ru ) Homestays and apartments.

A Intro by Irina ( www.introbyirina.com ) Can arrange both short- and long-term rental apartments.

A Ostwest.com ( www.ostwest.com ) Has a small selection of rental apartments in the Historic Heart.

LGBT Travellers

Despite a Russian law outlawing the 'promotion' of homosexuality to minors, St Petersburg remains a generally safe place for gay travellers. Hotels are normally problem-free about two men or two women sharing rooms, and while discretion is the safest policy on the streets, there is a thriving gay scene that's worth exploring.

First Time St Petersburg

Checklist

A Arrange your visa and check the entry and exit dates on it.

A Inform your bank if you plan to pay for things or take money out on cards in Russia.

A Ensure your travel insurance includes coverage in Russia.

A Book tickets online for the Mariinsky Theatre if you want to see a specific ballet or opera.

What to Pack

A European plug adaptor if you're travelling from outside mainland Europe

A Anti-mosquito spray or tablets (May to September)

A Comfortable shoes

A Clothing for all weather: temperatures vary massively

A Sunglasses for both summer and (surprisingly bright) winter

Top Tips for Your Trip

A St Petersburg is a huge city, so don't try to bite off more than you can chew: stagger your sightseeing and allow plenty of time to take it easy and watch the city go by.

A Get a metro smart card if you're going to be using the metro a lot. You'll save money and queuing up for tickets.

A Take advantage of deals such as the Hermitage's two-day ticket, which allows you access to all its sites over 48 hours, or the Russian Museum's four-palace ticket that does likewise over three days.

A Search out discount deals at restaurants Monday to Friday between noon and 4pm for excellent-value lunches.

A Learning the Cyrillic alphabet repays the effort tenfold and you'll be able to understand more than you would otherwise. Some basic phrases in Russian go a long way.

What to Wear

Clothing is very important to Russians, many of whom are surprised at how sloppily foreigners dress. Shoes are considered of particular importance, so it's a good idea to keep yours clean. That said, Russians remain quite casual and you'll rarely be expected to be in smart clothing outside the theatre and good restaurants.

Be Forewarned

A Foreigners tend to find Russians quite brusque and even unfriendly. Remember, this is a cultural thing, and try not to be offended by it. Russians take a while to warm up, but when they do they're exceptionally friendly.

A There has been an ongoing epidemic of racist attacks in St Petersburg. If you look very obviously non-Russian, it's a good idea to avoid the suburbs and take taxis at night.

A Due to legislation criminalising the 'promotion of homosexuality' to minors, levels of homophobia are higher now than they have been for some time. Gay travellers are advised to remain discreet.

Money

ATMs are everywhere in St Petersburg and generally accept all major credit and debit cards. You may save on fees by bringing cash in US dollars or euros with you and changing it at any bank or exchange office (обмен валют), where you’ll often get a better rate than that offered by credit cards. You can pay by debit and credit cards in most smarter restaurants and shops, but it’s never a good idea to rely on being able to do so: always carry some cash.

Taxes & Refunds

There is an 18% VAT rate in Russia and, while it's always included in goods and services, it is sometimes conveniently left off hotel rack rates, so do check before booking, as this could be a very nasty end to your stay.

Tipping

A Restaurants Leaving 10% on the table is the norm, when service has been good. Not necessary at very cheap places.

A Bars Not expected unless table service is provided. Then 10%.

A Taxis Not expected, but round up or add R50 for a long trip.

A Hotels R50 per bag.

Market stalls near the Church of the Saviour on the Spilled Blood | gary latham / lonely planet ©

Street Names

We use the transliteration of Russian street names to help you when deciphering Cyrillic signs. The following abbreviations are used:

A bul – bulvar ( бульвар; boulevard)

A nab – naberezhnaya ( набережная; embankment)

A per – pereulok ( переулок; lane or side street)

A pl – ploshchad ( площадь; square)

A pr – prospekt ( проспект; avenue)

A sh – shosse ( шоссе; highway)

A ul – ulitsa ( улица; street)

Staying Connected

Wi-fi is available for free all over the city. All hotels have free wi-fi available to guests, as do most restaurants, bars and cafes. Nearly all mobile phones can roam in Russia, though it is usually expensive. If you want mobile internet, buy a SIM card (SIM karta; about R200) from a phone shop for your unlocked handset.

Language

English is widely, if poorly, spoken. Younger people tend to speak the best English. You don’t need to know any Russian to travel here, but learning the alphabet and some basic phrases will be a huge help.

Getting Around

Metro

The fastest way to cover long distances, the metro has around 70 stations, costs a flat fare of R28 and works from approximately 5.45am to 12.45am each day.

Bus

Better for shorter distances in areas without good metro coverage. Can be slow going, but views are good.

Trolleybus

Trolleybuses are the slowest of the lot, although they’re cheap and plentiful.

Marshrutka

The private sector’s contribution, these fixed-route minibuses are fast and you can get on or off anywhere along their routes.

Tram