Journey Through the Island of Rügen

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First Letter

Stralsund - Grähl Ferry - Rambin - Gingst - Venz - Bergen

Gingst - 26 July, 1803

Here I am at last! I see my dream coming into reality and my feet are finally placed firmly on the grounds of this island which I have known for more than 12 years already, although it seems only a short time from when I often expressed to you a few sounds of enthusiasm from my humble self, when still fresh in my memory was this ultimate Thule on the edge of the northernmost Germanic district, about which, a few years ago in southern Germany, I was asked by an otherwise fashionable lady, in full earnest, If then the local dialect is Swedish, does Rügen still belong to the German Empire?

Now my dear, some full details and the experiences from myself from these islands for you and your friends. It would be better that you follow along with my excursion. Although I will first of all convey to you a request that I received from the former professor Mayer in Greifswald and from Lotter in Augsburg a stinging card of Swedish Pommerania and Rügen but certainly not the old untrue {Homannsche}-to take by the hand; the largest, original, {Lubinischen} card, that one is scarcely able to get hold of, because it is a rarity here in this land.

Look up the name ‘Gingst’, for that is the place from where I write to you today; and although I have enjoyed the noble’s hospitality it is necessary to depart. After I took care of business in Stralsund, my suitcase with its address attached was sent to its destination and the postmaster had delivered it. I hastened to the ferry bridge in order to ferry over on a house rudder-boat such as one sees in Rügen. But because of the aching strong wind, the ferry passengers would not venture the crossing. In the harbor, I just learned in the meantime that a boat from the Grahl Ferry lay ready to sail and is even ready to board. On this occasion, I hurry to make use of the time by associating with the remaining passengers. The trunk was stowed, the wind filled the sail and in the saucy and blustery weather the Danish spoor (mast beam) flies overhead. On the westerly side, I see a small island with a passable protruding beach, on which we see some entrenchments from former wars. In a little less than a half hour, we were in the straits, here a half-mile across, the ship is through, and here I stand on the island shore.

The Grähl ferry lies situated at the moment pointing towards Rügen - to the right there stands out only a few houses; we hear the Church of the Virgin in Stralsund. - On the local beach one finds pure spring water. In summer, when the water is bad there many Stralsund residents attend to their drinking water. The Grahl ferry uses a bare sail because the rudder-boat is not permitted to stop, and also because the old ferry has a simple rudder, but no sailboats were found on the beach. Apart from this, between Pommerania and Rügen, there are two other ferrys; the new Wamper Ferry of the Drigge, a small peninsula that I see lying before me on my left from Grähl, as well as the charming Goldberg Ferry.

Opposite from the Pommeranian coast glistens the Niederhoff estate, and the Glewitz Ferry. The last of these is the most commonly used. The remaining are insignificant because visitors and m come seldom in the fall, so they must serve.

From Grähl, carrying a small pack, I hiked with a guide to the old ferry, which I reached in a half hour. The path goes to the shore, where the beach begins to flatten, but it rises gradually, and stands out in strong, yellow brilliance with its sandy tone intermixed and its height is over 10 Ellen (1 Ellen is roughly equivalent to 1 yard.) at the ferry site. Here I rent a vehicle, that a visitor can obtain, and so go inland.

A half-mile from the ferry lies the church village of Rambin, whose pastor is both nobleman and possessor of a country estate in the vicinity. Before a few dwellings in the village, I find planted young beantrees (Cytisus Laburnum), that are seldom found in the country. The ale house here is dirty and poor. There to the left of the roadway is a fast-growing spruce grove and on the other end lies a hospital, called the Cloister of St. Jurgens, mostly for the elderly. Here their purchases are possible with little money and they also can obtain natural produce. It (the hospital) was donated in the 1400s and belongs to the city of Stralsund. In front of the road stands an old chapel, wherein the pastor from Rambin holds services. Therein also is a conference room. The windows are closed with lead, runners climb the wine stocks and wind up a lattice-work on the wall. The entirety is fastened with stakes. Behind this building lies the residence of the Proewener, as the man is called. Also belonging to him is the spruce grove. The hospital sits away from the village and the fields of the island.

3. View of the Landing Bridge Near Stralsund

Outwards: Ernst Willkomm - Journey on the East Sea: Leipzig 1850

( Graphic #3)

One of the better sights are the Sacellum, which stands before us on a small hill near the cloister and which belongs to the village of Rothenkirchen. It lies shining before the forest staked out towards the dark, deep green hue of the shining forest. Here the path parts. To the right one goes to the heartland of the island and the Post road to Bergen, lying in the dusky distance. To the left lies the village next to Gingst. Aside, on the right I catch sight of the Goetemitzer mountains (I count nine of them) and from them (comes) an old native story-tellers opinion, it is possible that there under a good heathen ashpot (or urn), one finds a good payment; an idea (a thought), whose correctness experience has confirmed, so that in the newer times certainly more graves should be dug up and examined.

Here also are there other desirable seascapes. The sea in this region forms a bosom where a particular harbor and village lie. In the background before me lies the Landower Church with its tower and to the left is the bay that forms the boundary of the farm in the Pommeranian Promontory point of Borhoeft (Barhoeft), which projects forth sideways into the distance. Otherwise the land here is completely flat. It appears, however, that with the primitive sowing, there is excellent growth, originating from very rich acreage.

On the lowland to the left side against the seacoast, there, not far in the distance, appears the Drammendorf estate. Behind it is a considerable grove of Salt Willows. Next to it is the estate. Then we come once more to the shore that leads endlessly through a passable stretch, through a small inlet or bay, which is called an Inwiek (inlet or bay), or the Priebrow Wedde. The sea breaks to the right somewhat lower than in the land and thus begins the outflow to the Serower (Sehrower) or Negaster Brook, from where the Kniepower sea originates.

Not long thereafter, I encounter a second bay, with a similiar breadth through which I even go through, but in its scenic aspect it was still eventually surpassed. Near it lies the small church village (Kirchdorf) of Landow and aside to the left, behind full-fronted trees, is the Ralow estate. In the oldest land history records, Ralow is known from the notorious poem of the Kosegartens. Old Ralow was named a Burg (town) (founded by) the Wendish sea rat Ralunk or Rolvink, and was destroyed by Jeromar I, the first Prince of Rügen, in the fourteenth century. One still sees there the remains of the old dam.

We come through Landow, the smallest pastorate of Rügen, and behind this village I must pass by through the so-called Landower Wedde. In the middle of it there is a strong stream or current. There are two rows of stakes fastened as a marker for the wagons passing through. This alternative of course is only for the competent and visitors, and is excellent for the nighttime. It is uncertain that from the sea, there may come a storm just in such bays where turbulence can be encountered. Also from the drift ice in spring, the path marked by these poles often becomes torn up, where then the carrier’s salvation depends on a chance attempt. Generally, it seems to me, that passage through both of these Wedde, through the swelling of the sea by the northwest wind, can be dangerous to the ignorant if one misses the right path. The lack of amenities are not only worthy of mention, but with an unexpectedly high tide, water can penetrate through the vehicle and the travelers luggage will get wet.

In the worst condition is the foot traveler. Near Landow is a free, small wood bridge or a path, where the current of the Wedde is narrow. But this can also be dangerous during the beginning rush of the tide and many know nothing of its presence. The same applies to the Preibrow Wedde.

On the end (of the Wedde) there lays a dwelling wherein the occupant has, of course, a wretched boat, which passengers sometimes pass over. It stands next to the Wedde boundary in meadowland, completely under water and the traveler must - it is not everyman’s thing to do it - wade up to the place where the boat lays. Often the people are not near at hand, and then one must wait until perhaps a wagon comes. There one must get off and push from behind. Because of these problems, both kinds of passengers probably wish that there were more brave souls willing to assist travelers in defying the waves. This is especially true because the Gingst army highway should have been constructed there as hindrances make the entry impossible.

Also the stretch from Landow to Gingst, which amounts to a good half mile, contains flat land. Of the whole west coast of the island, only some of it is visible above the surface of the water. Everywhere you catch sight of multiple family dwellings, fields, country estates and villages. I came through a few myself, before I entered Gingst.

In the house of the local Provost, Mr. Picht, I found a friendly reception. By the time I arrived, it was already dark. Around the market there were still things to see so I overlooked the rest which one can not praise enough and went like many other visitors to where visiting guests were being entertained. The daughter of the house was a gentlewoman full of talent, a good story teller and completely musical, and she so shortened the time singing while alternately accompanying herself on the piano forte and the harp, until we were invited to our evening meal. The invitation; To the table, was ordered by the father, a born Prussian; To me, he was remarkable for his youth, and the intermingling of his somewhat interesting passing of the time, provided very charming entertainment.

My first movement the following morning took place in the company of the Praepositus and his son, a stout young man, who supports his father as the Deacon of the church. Its outward appearance promised nothing; it was what one perceived in the interior. Here is simplicity allied with elegance, and you will not find a national church so easily where so much light, cleanliness and symmetry are found together as in this one which may be the most elegant in the land. Two graceful adornments are the altar, that was built by Rode, the deceased artist in Berlin, where Christ’s ascension adorns the front of the painting, and the organ, which was built a few years ago by Kindt, the historic instrument maker in Stralsund. The organist’s cubicle is joined with the Sexton’s office. Under the holy vessel, there sits a chalice; an exquisite work. In former times, an officer of a noble family of the county who had taken it as booty from some Polish Cloister, brought it with him and left it here as a gift. The so-called cloak-chamber, a small annex to the church, that like the name presumes to imply, was formerly for leaving the deposit of mass beads or perhaps also as a vestry service. Today it is actually furnished by the Praepositus as a schoolroom, wherein the history and active precantor and organist instruct the youth of the market-town and the neighborhood in the summer. On the eastside of the church courtyard the Provost had acquired a cemetary adorned with a pretty border for himself and his family.

After this, I went through the market-town that contained no further signifigance and had only the view of a large village. It lays on a wide plain, containing not many more than 100 houses and is two long miles distant from the old ferry. Only a few streets cover a decaying dam. The houses are small and are covered with straw, except three or four which belong to the Church Parish. They are equal with his (the parish) farm building which with his garden is a well-furnished country estate. The view, based on its outward appearance, shows that the owners intended that everything be organized. The green lawn around the house, the high row of lime trees with their shade, even with their unfragrant blossoms, the many trees, the luxurious vegetable gardens, the high climbing vines on the wine ballistrades, the low arbor and the pond with the red border fence about it - that everything gives a delightful picture of domestic prosperity, happiness and rural repose. This picture speaks also of the inner strength of the homes because here one finds affection, comfort and cleanliness, niceness without pomp, taste without affectation, and order without pedantic compulsion in beautiful union. In short, were I a spiritualist, I would wish that it, without doubt would belong to the owner (possessor) of such a courtyard. For the Gingster provost, who speaks to (at) the national theater, the Praepositor will keep (his) considerable stipend. This is because out of the above escribed situation, there is a considerable quantity of fertile creage next to a pasture and a peat bog. It is located nearby on the northeast side of the market. Especially, it is here where many of the very profitable estates and villages are assigned to a parish. Of these I have counted 40. Usually, this village is the richest in the district. Also eight pastors report to the Praepositor. The acreage of Wittow lays ordinarily in six, and infrequently in seven sections or ‘Schlagen’ and only the Lankensburger field is present in twelve periods or partitions. With the six periods, seeding is as follows: In the first period, Winter grain, that is wheat or rye, is seeded; in the second, barley, in the third peas, in the fourth, again barley, in the fifth, oats and the sixth lay fallow. When in a seven period cycle, acreage is worked with the following kind of management: In the first period one seeds Winter grain, in the second barley, in the third peas, in the fourth again barley, in the fifth oats and clover combined, in the sixth, clover, that is made into hay or for grazing and the seventh lies fallow. Here I say a small word about the agriculture of the Wittower country and to speak of its kind of management, were I not as a layman believed to have said enough about it.

4. Marketplace in Gingst

Source - Historical Culture Museum in Stralsund

(Graphic #4)

The market of Gingst, or ` as it is also called in old documents, has about 540 inhabitants. It formally belonged to parts of the Domanium (Church’s domain.) Some of the subjects of the pastorate, and consequently therefrom, some of the neighboring domain, must perform salary services. (And so has it existed here already for many years.)

So ends the trip through the market highway where sheaths (of grain) are displayed and divided in ownership between the town, the pastorate, and the tenant farmer, who receives the greatest share – a proof of the proverb, that under the crooked staff there is a good life, but also the living standard for the serfs must be raised.

To the management, little matters, other than that it lives off the public production in the jurisdiction, which accepts the receipt for payment for four quartermasters (employed by) the bureau and pastorate. When the inhabitant becomes free they believe that at same time they will have certain claims on fields and farms, which belongs partly to the neighboring estates, and partly to the pastorate. The pastorate claims to know of these delusions. Out of them originates the idea that the claims will propagate to their descendents, whom at present renew still more claims. For every year they search for the imaginary Eldorado without ever finding it; many of the inhabitants live the same simple life from their toil of the ground. Nevertheless, you meet here also the customary craftsmen, wherein a few make up a formal guild. So it is through the patriotic activity of the Praepositus, to bring profit to the market.

There has been erected an office which at present consists of seven master weavers. A few of them, in particular, the so-called Damask weavers, are as excellent workers as are in the whole land. They are also famous in Pommerania, even though their art sometimes leaves a few expensive bills. They make the finest tableclothes in Damask and drill, where your common yarn is delivered. No drawing of Blumenbuckets, Ranken, Kanten, arabesque and other artificial ornamentation (schnorkelein), as the taste of the ruling (class) only asks for. As you know, it is both artificial (man made) and difficult. However, you know the linen is woven with the greatest accuracy. This news is especially interesting to your mother. You must also say that table cloths of this breadth, like some of the Saxonish or the Westphalenish fabric that is being delivered, cannot be made here. Here, these two or three weavers looms are positioned very close to one another. Also the incapacity of the workers contributes to this inability as well. In the afternoon, I visited with some of the family of the master, and seeing their needlework in the looms and his mechanisms granted me much entertainment.

Afterwards, we took a walk to the mills on the western end of the market. From there, one has a good view of the whole district. This place, with the most resplendent grainfields, from which comes recently sprung-up green grain in extraordinary amounts, is bustling with activity. The view of estates and villages is often interrupted by the notch of the neighboring inland waters. On the border of the horizon looms the cities of Stralsund, and Bergen. Prominently protruding are especially Jasmund and the island of Hiddensee. There is principal toll in the rural district on wood, which is scarce in the whole Gingst`district. Thus, the small Rattelvitz forest camp is significant since the Pansewitzer (Pansewitz) camp is too distant. Otherwise this district is referred to because of its great fertility as a paradise. An appropriate expression, which Herr Zöllner correctly stated, and only slightly in error, when he said that the district is so well-named. Also what he said about grain on the highway, that one should not take the first; but that one should notify the estate owner and with equal diligence look to the middle of the field or to remote fields. There is just as good grain .there and now and then one finds better grain than on the main highway.

Finally, there appears a Hollandish-appearing mill to inspect, like the one built up a few years ago in the northern end of the village. Its wing reminds me of the mill of the stone grinding factory in Griefswald, and it then came to me, that like one finds in the old documents, also near Gingst, there should be a Saltwork. But now no more trace is visible.

On the third day in the afternoon, my guide had advised me that the Provost was assembling a small rural company. My intent was actually to go for a visit to the neighboring island of Ummanz. It was all the same to me because it was not expressed to me as being especially remarkable. Herr Zöllner has described the island but shielded the truth. I was content with this description. Nevertheless, especially the black dress of the farmpeople, and the small monkish farm houses were not mentioned so I instead accepted an invitation to the desirable trip to the dike. We come through Venz which for a hundred years has been owned by the family of Platen, where through their gothic structures a knight’s seat signifies the past. Not far from behind it appeared the aim of our trip; a bulwark, a possession which lies near Gingst and that belonged to the Teschvitz estate. It was not even a mile distant from the upper part, and here and there were mighty oaks, hazel and other bushes growing on its interior and exterior, and its considerable height was still more imposing. It was highest on the north side, on which an unmistakeable trace of an entrance is still present. Even somewhat further south on this side there was yet a second entrance. At the foot of the bulwark, we reach where a gap (a cleft) interrupts the bulwark, the same as that seen at the entrance. It was lowest on the westside, which had worn out as it seems. The dam disappears in a swamp, with bushes covering the low land. At the upper part of the dam, on the walkway, where a broader footpath through the