Three Weeks in Bali: A Personal Account of the Bali Bombing
()
About this ebook
Read more from Alan Atkinson
The Europeans in Australia: Volume 3: Nation Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Elizabeth and John: The Macarthurs of Elizabeth Farm Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratings
Related to Three Weeks in Bali
Related ebooks
Ain't Dead Yet: Winning a Wrestling Match Against Guillain-Barré Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsMusings in Bali - I Love My Life! Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsAll Fall Down Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5India Remembered Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Never Leave Your Wingman: Dionne and Graham Warner's Story of Hope Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsMy Claus Von Bulow Affaire Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Summary of Michelle Bowdler's Is Rape a Crime? Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsTales from the Desert: An Arabian memoir Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5Parables of Coercion: Conversion and Knowledge at the End of Islamic Spain Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsWeapons Formed Against Me: The Woman Who Walked Through Hell Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsSummary of Becky Cooper's We Keep the Dead Close Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsInfinite Dimensions: Stories Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsBlogs of the Travel Bugs Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsRose's Story! Vol II Rose Weds in Barbados Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsIn the Face of All Things Unknown Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsA Beard In Nepal 3. Travels with the Beard in Nepal, Bhutan and India Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsPlanet Ice: The Magic Cave Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsPlanning your Honeymoon Holiday Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsThe Cottage: Be Strong Enough Series, #3 Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsBali: Sekala & Niskala: Essays on Religion, Ritual, and Art Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5Way Out In India Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsBali: Head or Heart: A Memoir in Paradise Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsMore Spooky Stories Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsThe Amazing Holidays Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsFrom the Beach, In the Valley, Up the Mountain Poetry & Short Story Anthology Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsFrom the Beach, In the Valley, Up the Mountain Anthology Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsMessage at Sunset Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsJuggling Cats: Andy's story Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsStar's Return Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsUnlost Hope Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratings
Politics For You
Daily Stoic: A Daily Journal On Meditation, Stoicism, Wisdom and Philosophy to Improve Your Life Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5The Real Anthony Fauci: Bill Gates, Big Pharma, and the Global War on Democracy and Public Health Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Blackout: How Black America Can Make Its Second Escape from the Democrat Plantation Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5The Republic by Plato Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5The Girl with Seven Names: A North Korean Defector’s Story Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5The Great Reset: And the War for the World Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5The U.S. Constitution with The Declaration of Independence and The Articles of Confederation Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5The Parasitic Mind: How Infectious Ideas Are Killing Common Sense Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Ever Wonder Why?: and Other Controversial Essays Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5No Place to Hide: Edward Snowden, the NSA, and the U.S. Surveillance State Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Speechless: Controlling Words, Controlling Minds Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Son of Hamas: A Gripping Account of Terror, Betrayal, Political Intrigue, and Unthinkable Choices Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Capitalism and Freedom Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Disloyal: A Memoir: The True Story of the Former Personal Attorney to President Donald J. Trump Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Nickel and Dimed: On (Not) Getting By in America Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Get Trump: The Threat to Civil Liberties, Due Process, and Our Constitutional Rule of Law Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5Why I’m No Longer Talking to White People About Race: The Sunday Times Bestseller Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5The Madness of Crowds: Gender, Race and Identity Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Fear: Trump in the White House Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5The Cult of Trump: A Leading Cult Expert Explains How the President Uses Mind Control Rating: 3 out of 5 stars3/5This Is How They Tell Me the World Ends: The Cyberweapons Arms Race Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5The Devil's Chessboard: Allen Dulles, the CIA, and the Rise of America's Secret Government Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5How to Hide an Empire: A History of the Greater United States Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Elite Capture: How the Powerful Took Over Identity Politics (And Everything Else) Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5Hope in the Dark: Untold Histories, Wild Possibilities Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5The January 6th Report Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5
Reviews for Three Weeks in Bali
0 ratings0 reviews
Book preview
Three Weeks in Bali - Alan Atkinson
Dedication
This book is dedicated to the victims of the Bali bombing, their relatives and friends.
CONTENTS
Cover
Dedication
Introduction
Monday, 30 September 2002
Tuesday, 1 October 2002
Wednesday, 2 October 2002
Saturday, 5 October 2002
Sunday, 6 October 2002
Thursday, 10 October 2002
Saturday, 12 October 2002
Sunday, 13 October 2002
Monday, 14 October 2002
Tuesday, 15 October 2002
Wednesday, 16 October 2002
Thursday, 17 October 2002
Friday, 18 October 2002
Saturday, 19 October 2002
Epilogue — Monday, 21 October 2002
Acknowledgements
Copyright
INTRODUCTION
The Bali bombings have been a turning point. Carefree tourists and honeymooners have long flown to Bali from Australia and many other countries. They have been looking for a holiday with a difference and a brief taste of Asia in what has been a safe haven away from violence in other parts of the region.
Now that has changed. Kuta Beach, its nightclubs, bars and cheap shopping are no longer an attractive lure for many young people and probably won’t be for some time to come. And it may be a long time before other tourists return to sample the island’s rich Hindu traditions, temples, breathtaking scenery and the legendary friendliness of its people.
I was in Bali on holiday with my family when the bombs went off at Paddy’s Bar and the Sari Club. So I was one of the first Western journalists to file from the scene. When the ABC asked if I would write down my diary, I agreed because I knew it would be helpful to me to put on paper as much as I could remember in the post-bombing blur, as a way of trying to make sense of the incomprehensible.
But we all have our own experiences of the Bali bombing — relatives, friends, emergency and medical workers, holidaymakers, local business people, tourism operators, politicians, onlookers. If the story helps anyone else gain some useful perspective on the tragedy, then all to the good.
Alan Atkinson
Adelaide, October 2002
30.09.02
MONDAY
This holiday’s arrived too quickly. I wanted to look forward to it more. I was still at work in Adelaide only yesterday, producing the 7.00 p.m. television news, and now we’re on the plane to Darwin on the first leg of the journey to Bali.
I guess it’s always the same with holidays. You plan them but then they’re upon you before you’ve had a chance to relish the fact that you’re finally going to be away from work for a good two weeks. It was only on the way to the airport that we all started to get excited.
My wife Margie’s already asleep across the aisle. She needs a break too. She works for a busy care agency. I’m hoping the holiday will be good for her, that it won’t take too long for us all to wind down, that none of us gets Bali belly and that it’s as interesting for the children as it was for me when I first visited the island.
That was twenty years ago. Everyone was saying then that Bali had been ruined by tourists but it was my first time and I loved it, motorcycling all over the island and meeting some of the friendliest people. Pujiana was one. He was manager of a little homestay called Munut Cottages set in rice paddies just outside the artistic centre of Ubud.
Pujiana was delightfully gentle, charming and polite, with the readiest of smiles. Like so many other Balinese. How is it that they smile so easily? I remember after that holiday coming home smiling more. I wonder if the same thing will happen this time?
Pujiana was young, dark and handsome then. Now he must be middle-aged and handsome. He took me to his village to see his family. Most of them were woodcarvers. He was the only one with a job in tourism. All his money was going towards looking after his extended family of twelve, from grandparents to newborn baby.
When he drove me to meet his family, we stopped on the way to see a spectacularly colourful Hindu cremation, at which a whole village was present. That and meeting his family were two of the highlights of my 1982 visit. I wonder if he’s still there? Maybe he’s rebuilt Munut Cottages? Perhaps he’s moved on to manage a luxury hotel in Sanur or Nusa Dua? I’d love to see him and his family again.
Pujiana’s story was like that of so many other Balinese, a story of working hard in the ever-burgeoning tourism industry to provide for a family back in a village somewhere off the beaten track. In Bali, family ties are strong in the villages, as are religious rituals. Every village has its temples. Unlike the rest of Indonesia, Bali is mainly Hindu but their religion includes other beliefs as well, such as animism. There’s a sense of an all-pervasive spirituality that seems to bind the people so strongly to their surroundings that they seem to work with it and be at one with it in ways that I, a Westerner, find hard to understand. Perhaps it’s similar to Aboriginal Dreaming.
Of course the regular public performances of fire dances and other dramatic rituals are well-honed for the hordes of tourists but behind the shows it seems the ancient traditions and stories still mean a great deal to the ordinary Balinese. There doesn’t appear to be the same disconnection between faith and daily life that seems so evident in Western culture. Perhaps that’s partly because not many of the remote villages have television.
Some Westerners, of course, would say the Balinese sense of spirituality is more like superstition. I like to keep an open mind.
As the Qantas 737 drones on across Central Australia to Darwin, I wonder if our two children will get the same chance as I did to sample some of the Bali that’s off the tourist routes?
Our fourteen-year-old daughter Sarah has just started learning Indonesian at high school so I think she’ll get quite a lot out of the holiday. Our son, Nick, is on the edge of being a teenager and more into downhill bike riding, computer games and cricket than being with his parents. I hope he’s not too bored. That could be a pain. Friends who have been to Bali this year have enthused about the snorkelling, as well as the shopping, and one of their boys is the same age as Nick.
Anyway, we have half a day in Darwin to get used to the tropical warmth after the dryness of Adelaide. I want to see the Parliament House there. That could be the first test of interest or boredom. We shall see.
The hours in Darwin before the late night flight to Denpasar have gone well, though our eleven-year-old son was clearly a little perturbed after noticing a group of white and Aboriginal Darwinians noisily drunk in the street. He’d not seen that in Adelaide. Drinking in outdoor places in the city centre has been banned there.
We went to see the Northern Territory Parliament House, which to my eye is magnificent as well as huge. Our politicians really do like grand buildings, don’t they? Did they really need it that big?
For what it’s worth, I think I prefer the main hall of the Darwin building to that of Parliament House in Canberra. There’s a touch of Asia about the design that matches my mood.
The Darwin art gallery is impressive. I’m not a great connoisseur of Aboriginal art but I know what I like, as they say. There’s a touring exhibition on at the moment with some fabulous work on display. I wonder how many Australians from the big cities really make an effort to get out to see Aboriginal art or learn about it? I include myself as one of the lazy ones.
After visiting the gallery we walk on the beach then sit at an outdoor restaurant in the centre, drinking copious amounts of water. Margie’s already enjoying the humidity. She once worked in Far North Queensland and loves this kind of all-encompassing warmth. I like it too. Some people can’t stand it. Sarah and Nick are also coping well with the change of climate. They’ll need to because according to the weather forecast Bali’s going to be even hotter.
01.10.02
TUESDAY
We arrive at Denpasar Airport to be greeted with flowers by the travel agent’s local representative and his driver. They will take us to our hotel in