Best of the Appalachian Trail: Day Hikes

INTRODUCTION

L

eaves of red, orange, and yellow rustled in the wind and broke loose from their branches. The soft sound made by thousands of leaves as they fell onto the already littered forest floor could barely be heard over the burbling, pattering, and splashing sounds from Little Black Branch. The small creek runs alongside the Appalachian Trail on a hike from Forest Service Road 10 to Little Rock Pond. We walked over to the stream to show our daughter, Griffin, the water she heard just off the trail. In a wide, shallow pool, red maple leaves circled around and around, caught in an eddy. The wet leaves seem iridescent, lit by the sunlight streaming through the trees on that crisp October morning.

That short, easy hike was the perfect way to spend the morning. There was plenty of time for Griffin to get down and walk on her own, and the pond surrounded by Vermont’s peak foliage was a breathtaking sight.

This book was written to introduce you to just that kind of experience—the best day hikes on the 2,190-mile Appalachian Trail.

HISTORY OF THE APPALACHIAN TRAIL

The idea for a trail running the length of the Appalachian Mountains was first considered in the early part of the 20th century. The Appalachian Trail, as we know it, was the vision of Benton MacKaye (rhymes with sky) and others who had been thinking about the concept for more than 10 years. In 1921, MacKaye took the initiative and launched the project through an article in The Journal of the American Institute of Architects.

In that first article, MacKaye wrote about the purpose of the Trail, There would be a chance to catch a breath, to study the dynamic forces of nature and the possibilities of shifting to them the burdens now carried on the backs of men. . . . Industry would come to be seen in its true perspective—as a means in life and not as an end in itself.

MacKaye’s original intent was to construct a trail from the highest peak in the North to the highest peak in the South—from Mount Washington [New Hampshire] to Mount Mitchell [North Carolina]. He envisioned a fourfold plan including the trail, shelters, community camps, and food and farm camps. The camps never came about. And although MacKaye’s larger economic plan for the Appalachian Trail never gained support, his main purpose—an opportunity for American families to commune with nature—is the reason for the Trail’s continued existence.

Within a year after MacKaye’s article appeared in the architectural journal, the New York–New Jersey Trail Conference began work on a new trail with the goal of making it part of the Appalachian Trail. In the Hudson River Valley, the new Bear Mountain Bridge would connect a planned section in New England with Harriman State Park and eventually with the Delaware Water Gap in Pennsylvania.

In 1925, MacKaye and others formed the Appalachian Trail Conference to guide the project to completion. By 1936, Myron H. Avery, who would be chairman of the Appalachian Trail Conference for 22 years, had finished measuring the flagged route of the Appalachian Trail. He became the first 2,000-miler one year before the completion of the Trail.

On August 14, 1937, Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) workers cleared the final link of the 2,025-mile (the length at that time) Appalachian Trail. On a high ridge connecting Spaulding and Sugarloaf Mountains in Maine, a six-person CCC crew cut the last 2 miles of trail. The finished route of the Appalachian Trail was not as originally envisioned by MacKaye: the final product was longer, stretching from Georgia’s Mount Oglethorpe (the southern terminus of the eastern Blue Ridge) to Katahdin in what is now Maine’s Baxter State Park.

The Trail did not remain complete for long. The next year, a hurricane demolished miles of trail in the northeast, while the decision to connect Skyline Drive (under construction at the time) with the Blue Ridge Parkway displaced another 120 miles of trail in Virginia. The Trail was not made continuous again until 1951, after the world had settled down from World War II.

In 1968, President Lyndon B. Johnson signed the National Trails System Act and designated the Appalachian Trail as the first National Scenic Trail. The act charged federal agencies with the task of buying lands to protect the trailway from encroaching development, but 10 years passed before the government acted and began protecting the Trail lands. 99% of the 2,190 miles of the Appalachian Trail were under protection within some form of public lands. The Appalachian Trail Conservancy (ATC) is now leading a coalition of private and public entities that are trying to protect all the most significant viewsheds of the A.T.

Perhaps the most amazing aspect of the world’s largest greenway is that, prior to their construction by federal crews and the CCC, the Trail routes were conceived and selected by private citizens. As a testament to the volunteers’ involvement, the federal government delegated much of the management of the Trail to a private nonprofit group—the ATC—even after the footpath was brought under federal protection.

SELECTING A HIKE

When we set out to pick the best of the A.T., we decided that although the hikes could use side trails, they would have to mostly be on the Trail proper to qualify for the book. But a few hikes in this book bend that rule—these were so spectacular that although they use little of the Trail, we just couldn’t leave them out.

The hike descriptions in this book often suggest more than great hikes, however. The information provided will also tell you, for example, good times to hike in the area or when to avoid hiking there.

To help you pick out a hike that offers just what you’re looking for, several easy-to-find pieces of information are located at the top of each hike description: the hike rating, the distance and configuration, and icons denoting major attractions along the way. At the beginning of each chapter, this same information, along with the hike name and page number, is also presented in a quick-reference table format.

ICONS

Each hike has one or more icons that show the major attractions along the way. The icons are intended to give you easy-to-identify symbols that you can use when you flip through the book looking for a hike.

mountain peak

scenic view/photo opportunity

pond or river

waterfall

historical area

bird-watching

wheelchair access

RATINGS

The hikes are rated as easy, moderate, or strenuous. Easy hikes have little elevation gain or loss and are no more than 10 miles long. Moderate hikes have no long, steep climbs or descents but may have some short, steep grades or long, gradual ascents. Strenuous hikes are steep and sometimes long—they should not be attempted by inexperienced hikers or people in poor physical condition.

LENGTH AND HIKE TIMES

A good way to gauge hiking time is to allow a half hour for each mile to be hiked, as well as an additional hour for each 1,000 feet of elevation gained. This pace allows for a leisurely hike with some time to stop at overlooks and other points of interest. The hikes in this book can certainly be done faster or slower, but this formula will give you an idea of how long you will need to walk.

EQUIPMENT FOR DAY HIKES

One of the benefits of day hiking (as opposed to backpacking) is that you are relatively unburdened by equipment. There are a few things, however, that every well-prepared day hiker should have, as well as a few optional items that you might want to take along to make your trip more enjoyable.

You need to be dressed in comfortable clothes that don’t constrict your movement too much. For many hikes in this book, a sturdy pair of shorts or pants, a shirt, and good walking shoes or hiking boots will be adequate. You will also need a day pack or fanny pack to carry what little gear you need. For all but the shortest of hikes (a mile or less), you should carry at least a quart of water and raingear, such as a rainsuit, poncho, or umbrella.

Items you may want to consider carrying in your pack include a small first aid kit, a lighter or matches, toilet paper and a trowel, and a map or guidebook. We also suggest that you carry only a photocopy of the pages you need from this book when you hike rather than the entire book.

If you’re going to be hiking at high altitudes or above tree line, carry warm clothing, because the temperature on the mountaintops can be much lower than in the valleys. Other items you may want to carry in your pack include a camera (if you’re not exclusively using your phone); binoculars; wildlife guides; and a filter, pills, or drops if you expect to treat water from a spring or stream.

BOOTS

Hiking boots range in price from $50 to $500 and are generally divided into three categories: heavyweight, mediumweight, and lightweight. Heavyweight boots weigh more than 4 pounds and are generally designed for technically demanding climbs on ice (usually with crampons), snow, or rock. You won’t need heavyweights for the hikes in this book unless, say, you choose to climb Katahdin in the dead of winter.

Mediumweight boots, which weigh 2–4 pounds, are made almost entirely of leather, though many incorporate tough fabric as well. Mediumweights are ideal for the broadest range of hiking situations.

Lightweight boots, which weigh less than 2 pounds, are generally made with a combination of leather and a breathable fabric. Lightweights are tough enough to handle any hike in this book.

When purchasing hiking boots, the most important factor to keep in mind is fit—even the most expensive boots will make you miserable if they don’t fit properly. Fitting is best done in person, in a store; buy online only if you know the company has a good return policy. Heavyweight and mediumweight boots require that you break them in before you head out into the woods. Lightweight boots generally need no breaking in, but even these can be purchased too small or too big, too narrow or too wide, so be prepared with moleskin to treat hot spots before blisters develop (see page 11 for more on blister care).

DAY PACKS

Because most day packs are made in the same teardrop style, the important thing to look at is how well the pack is made. Inexpensive day packs can be purchased at any discount store, but if they are poorly padded and have little support, you won’t have hiked a mile before you regret the purchase.

Because of advances in fabric technology, hikers have dozens of well-made day packs to choose from these days. We suggest reading online reviews for the packs you are interested in. Make sure that the shoulder straps are secure—this is the first place where day packs fall apart, because you carry the weight on your shoulders as opposed to your hips. To prevent ripping, a number of day packs have extra reinforcement where the shoulder straps connect to the sack.

Another feature to look for is padding on the back of the pack. The more padding there is, the less likely you’ll be poked and prodded by the objects inside the pack.

Other features to look for in day packs include convenient loading through a top or front panel, pockets for smaller items (some day packs also feature a special loop to hold keys), a waist strap to keep the pack from bouncing against your back, padded shoulder straps, and lash points for extra gear. Many day packs now feature hydration packs that have various-sized reservoirs to hold water and an attached tube that allows you to easily sip while hiking. Day packs vary greatly in price, but the best ones tend to be between $50 and $200, and most manufacturers feature a variety to choose from.

FANNY PACKS

Fanny packs can be used on day hikes in place of a day pack, but they aren’t as comfortable as day packs: they don’t distribute the weight as well and usually cannot carry as much as you might like to bring. They can be used along with a day pack or alone (if you have a partner carrying a day pack).

Some hikers use fanny packs worn in reverse, snug across their bellies with the strap fastened in the small of the back. Cameras, water, snacks, data books, maps, guides, or whatever you need can be quickly accessed using this method.

When purchasing a fanny pack, make sure that the belt is well padded for comfort and the sack is sturdy enough to carry the load you intend for it. Some fanny packs will sag if heavy objects are placed in them. Also, if the fabric is thin, you may get poked and prodded by the objects inside.

Equipment Checklist

Bandanna(s)*

Camera/spare smartphone and memory cards/film*

Compass*

Cell phone (for emergencies only; keep it turned off when not in use)

Day pack and/or fanny pack

Filter or other water treatment*

First aid kit (including moleskin and space blanket)*

Food and water for length of hike

GPS unit*

Hiking boots

Hiking stick*

Insect repellent and sunscreen*

Maps and guidebooks*

Pocketknife*

Raingear

Sunglasses*

Sweater or coat*

Toilet paper and trowel for burying waste**

*optional or seasonal equipment

** optional, depending on length of hike and availability of facilities along the way

WATER TREATMENT

Staying well hydrated is essential for hikers. If you’re day hiking, we recommend that you carry all of the water you need, but if you anticipate needing more, be aware that you must treat water from any source along the A.T. unless it has been guaranteed safe to drink. The incidence of waterborne illnesses has been rising among A.T. hikers because they have either become lazy about treating their water or are unaware that they should do so. Fortunately, a wide variety of treatment methods exist, from boiling to iodine pills to gravity filters. As with other outdoor gear, check out product reviews and advice online before making your choice.

MINIMUM IMPACT

Minimum-impact camping is a philosophy summed up by the National Park Service as Take nothing but pictures, leave nothing but footprints. The following sections discuss measures you can take to help eliminate traces of your presence along the Trail. This isn’t so much a list of rules as it is a way of living that is becoming increasingly important to adopt. If these techniques are not used by everyone (and currently they’re not), the A.T. will lose its natural beauty. Nature is resilient, but its ability to fight back is limited. A little effort goes a long way toward improving the world we’re escaping to. If everyone pitches in, we’ll be able to enjoy our backcountry experiences even more.

CARRY OUT ALL OF YOUR TRASH

Pack it in, pack it out, and you’re already one giant step toward improving the environment you love. Keep a garbage bag handy for storing your trash—and that means everything, even organic material. Yes, orange peels, apple cores, and eggshells are natural and biodegradable. So why not toss them into the brush? Because they don’t break down instantly: it takes five months for an orange peel, for instance, to rot and become one with the earth.

Few things are worse than heading into the woods to relieve yourself and discovering a trail of toilet paper, proving that you weren’t the first to have this idea at this spot. Soggy used TP is one of the uglier reminders of human presence.

Likewise, following trails littered with cigarette butts is disheartening. If you want to smoke, that’s your prerogative, but don’t think of the outdoors as one big ashtray. Not only are cigarette butts ugly to look at, but it takes just a single stray spark to start a forest fire.

CARRY OUT TRASH LEFT BY OTHERS

Sadly, many people who wouldn’t dare throw trash on the ground at home feel no compunction about doing so in the outdoors. And unfortunately, the users and abusers of America’s trails outnumber the enviro-conscious. We have to make up for their ignorance and sloth by picking up after them.

You can make the outdoors an even better place by stopping occasionally to pick up other people’s trash. As for nastier stuff like used toilet paper and discarded food, you can at least take a minute to cover it with leaves, moss, dirt, and twigs. Pick up trash, and you’ll find you feel a lot better about yourself.

SWITCHBACKS

Stay on designated trails. Switchbacks are there for a reason: they slow down erosion on steep climbs. It may seem easier to scramble up the hillside to the next section of trail, but if too many people did that, rain would start using the newly exposed earth as a watercourse, washing away both trail and mountain in its wake. You may curse the person who blazed it and those who attempt to keep it passable for you, but remember that just about any trail you hike was built and maintained by volunteers.

WASTE MANAGEMENT

There’s more to being green than just packing out your trash—properly discarding the remnants of nature’s call keeps the wilderness not only cleaner but prettier, too. Always, always, always (we can’t say it too many times) dig a hole 6–8 inches deep for solid waste, and make sure that you choose a spot at least 200 feet from the nearest water source. If you’re hiking alongside a stream, climb up.

Urinating on rocks or gravel is preferable to bushes or dirt—urine contains salts that can attract wildlife, which may then dig up the spot where you’ve relieved yourself. Many hikers bring along a wide-mouthed plastic bottle or portable urinal; a flat-bottomed resealable cooking bag is a great option if you’re trying to conserve space in your pack.

TRAIL MAINTENANCE

Give back to the Trail and the hiking community by becoming involved in trail maintenance. Maintaining a section of existing trail and helping out with blazing new trails are good ways to pay back the outdoors for the good times you have had there. Trails are beginning to crisscross the entire country, and there is sure to be a new or old trail somewhere near you. Contact your local trail clubs to see what you can do to help out. Most backpacking shops can tell you about clubs in your area.

The entire Appalachian Trail is maintained by volunteers. To find out more about the clubs that maintain the A.T., contact the Appalachian Trail Conservancy (see Appendix, page 224).

FINDING SOLITUDE

Many hikers retreat to the Appalachian Trail seeking a wilderness experience, only to find themselves sharing a crowded section of trail with more hikers than they bargained for. Here are a few tips for finding a little alone time on America’s most popular long-distance trail.

•Start your hike early in the morning. We once took this advice to the extreme and enjoyed the best hike of our lives for the effort. We started climbing Katahdin at 2:30 a.m. and arrived at Baxter Peak by 5:30 a.m.