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    Lonely Planet Pocket Seoul
    Lonely Planet Pocket Seoul
    Lonely Planet Pocket Seoul
    Ebook280 pages1 hour

    Lonely Planet Pocket Seoul

    By Thomas O'Malley and Phillip Tang

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    About this ebook

    Lonely Planet: The world's leading travel guide publisher

    Lonely Planet's Pocket Seoul is your passport to the most relevant, up-to-date advice on what to see and skip, and what hidden discoveries await you. Wander the labyrinthine streets of Bukchon Hanok Village, explore the grand Gyeongbokgung and Changdeokgung palaces and try some local cuisine at Namdaemun Market - all with your trusted travel companion. Get to the heart of Seoul and begin your journey now!

    Inside Lonely Planet's Pocket Seoul:

    • Full-colour maps and images throughout
    • Highlights and itineraries help you tailor your trip to your personal needs and interests
    • Insider tips to save time and money and get around like a local, avoiding crowds and trouble spots
    • Essential info at your fingertips - hours of operation, phone numbers, websites, transit tips, prices
    • Honest reviews for all budgets - eating, sleeping, sightseeing, going out, shopping, hidden gems that most guidebooks miss
    • Free, convenient pull-out map (included in print version), plus over 16 colour neighbourhood maps
    • User-friendly layout with helpful icons, and organised by neighbourhood to help you pick the best spots to spend your time
    • Covers Gwanghwamun, Myeong-Dong, Hongdae, Yeouido, Itaewon, Yongsan-gu, Apgujeong, Gangnam, Dongdaemun, and more

    The Perfect Choice: Lonely Planet's Pocket Seoul is our colourful, easy to use, handy guide that literally fits in your pocket, providing on-the-go assistance for those seeking the best sights and experiences on a short visit or weekend break.

    Looking for more extensive coverage? Check out Lonely Planet's Korea guide for an in-depth look at all the country has to offer.

    About Lonely Planet: Lonely Planet is a leading travel media company and the world's number one travel guidebook brand, providing both inspiring and trustworthy information for every kind of traveller since 1973. Over the past four decades, we've printed over 145 million guidebooks and grown a dedicated, passionate global community of travellers. You'll also find our content online, and in mobile apps, video, 14 languages, nine international magazines, armchair and lifestyle books, ebooks, and more.

    'Lonely Planet guides are, quite simply, like no other.' - New York Times

    'Lonely Planet. It's on everyone's bookshelves, it's in every traveller's hands. It's on mobile phones. It's on the Internet. It's everywhere, and it's telling entire generations of people how to travel the world.' - Fairfax Media (Australia)

    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherLonely Planet
    Release dateFeb 1, 2019
    ISBN9781788681582
    Lonely Planet Pocket Seoul
    Author

    Thomas O'Malley

    Thomas O'Malley is the author of the novel In the Province of Saints, selected as one of the best books of 2005 by Booklist and the New York Public Library. He earned his MFA at the Iowa Writers' Workshop, and teaches at Dartmouth College. Raised in Ireland and England, O'Malley currently lives in the Boston area.

    Read more from Thomas O'malley

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      Book preview

      Lonely Planet Pocket Seoul - Thomas O'Malley

      Contents

      Plan Your Trip

      Welcome to Seoul

      Top Sights

      Eating

      Drinking & Nightlife

      Shopping

      Outdoor Seoul

      Architecture

      Museums & Galleries

      K-Pop & K-Indie

      Palaces, Temples & Shrines

      For Kids

      LGBT

      For Free

      Four Perfect Days

      Need to Know

      Seoul Neighbourhoods

      Explore Seoul

      Gwanghwamun & Jongno-gu

      Myeong-dong & Jung-gu

      Western Seoul

      Itaewon & Yongsan-gu

      Gangnam & Southern Seoul

      Dongdaemun & Eastern Seoul

      Worth a Trip

      DMZ & JSA

      Survival Guide

      Survival Guide

      Before You Go

      Arriving in Seoul

      Getting Around

      Essential Information

      Language

      Behind the Scenes

      Our Writers

      Welcome to Seoul

      Fashion- and technology-forward but also deeply traditional, Seoul mashes up palaces, temples, cutting-edge design and mountain trails, all to a nonstop K-Pop beat. A fascinating mix of old and new, this dynamic city balances traditional culture with contemporary attractions. With amazing food, happening nightlife and a lively arts scene, Seoul is enjoying a renaissance not to be missed.

      Gyeongbokgung | Topic Images Inc/Getty Images ©

      1

      Seoul

      Top Sights

      Bukchon Hanok Village

      Area with fascinating traditional homes.

      CURIOSO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

      Seoul Top Sights

      Bongeun-sa

      Future Buddha meets futuristic Gangnam.

      NATTEE CHALERMTIRAGOOL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

      Seoul Top Sights

      Deoksugung

      Seoul’s only illuminated evening palace.

      THANACHAI SRISAI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

      Seoul Top Sights

      The DMZ

      Surreal symbol of the Cold War.

      HANG DINH/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

      Seoul Top Sights

      Changdeokgung

      Beautiful palace hiding a secret garden.

      JULIE MAYFENG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

      Seoul Top Sights

      Gyeongbokgung

      Seoul’s most monumental royal palace.

      ZEPHYR_P/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

      Seoul Top Sights

      N Seoul Tower & Namsan

      Iconic Seoul mountaintop views.

      DKCYUN/GETTY IMAGES ©

      Seoul Top Sights

      Noryangjin Fish Market

      Seoul’s exciting seafood-eating experience.

      ONE_CLEAR_VISION/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

      Seoul Top Sights

      National Museum of Korea

      Explore Korea’s history.

      BRIAN COLELLA/GETTY IMAGES ©

      Seoul Top Sights

      War Memorial of Korea

      Military history and hardware.

      KIM JIHYUN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

      Seoul Top Sights

      Dongdaemun Design Plaza & Park

      Architectural masterpiece.

      E5CAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

      Seoul Top Sights

      Olympic Park

      The city’s artiest outdoor museum.

      KOREAKHW/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

      Eating

      Sampling the many delights of Korean cuisine is one of Seoul’s great pleasures. Restaurants, cafes and street stalls are scattered throughout every neighbourhood with options to suit all budgets and tastes – whether that’s simple rice and vegetables, a DIY barbecue blowout or the procession of banchan (side dishes) that takes up a royal court banquet.

      ALEXANDER PROKOPENKO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

      Food Trends

      Though Korean taste buds lean towards their own cuisine, young Seoulites gobble up global food trends at a startling rate. Seoul’s restaurant scene now rivals those of Hong Kong and Shanghai as the most dynamic in Asia.

      Ongoing trends include anything Americana, including New York–style pizza, Maine lobster or Alabama brisket. Thai and Vietnamese were red hot at time of research, and KoMex (Korean-Mexican fusion) continues to reign with its kimchi tacos and other fusion fare.

      Street Stalls

      Street stalls and pojangmacha (tent bars) are great for inexpensive meals, and some open long after most restaurants close. Areas in Insa-dong, Myeong-dong and markets at Gwangjang, Namdaemun and Dongdaemun are the best spots to dig in with locals.

      Vegetarians & Vegans

      Though vegetarian and vegan travellers generally have a tough time elsewhere in Korea, Seoul offers a much greater choice of meat- and dairy-free eating options. As well as Korean dishes such as bibimbap (pictured; rice, egg, meat and vegies with chilli sauce; order it without meat, or egg), a few tofu dishes and vegetable pajeon (savoury fried pancakes), there are several traditional restaurants that specialise in 100% vegetarian Buddhist temple food. Western-style vegetarian/vegan restaurants are becoming more common, and you can find traditionally vegetarian international cuisine such as Indian and Middle Eastern.

      Best Korean

      Jungsik Neo-Korean fine dining at affordable prices.

      Noryangjin Fish Market Super-fresh fish dinners at Korea’s largest seafood market.

      Congdu Subtle, contemporary takes on classic Korean dishes.

      Samwon Garden The quintessential galbi (beef ribs) experience.

      Gwangjang Market Delicious, cheap street food in a bustling market.

      Onion Delectable baked goods and coffee in Seoul’s hippest cafe.

      Best Bakeries & Cafes

      Passion 5 Glitzy arcade with gourmet baked goods and patisserie.

      Seoureseo Duljjaero Jalhaneunjip Time travel to the ’70s while enjoying red-bean porridge.

      Tartine The best American-style pecan pies this side of the Pacific.

      Best Vegetarian & Vegan

      Balwoo Gongyang Buddhist vegetarian feasts overlooking Jogye-sa.

      Plant Cafe & Kitchen Vegan mains and baked goods in Itaewon.

      Rogpa Tea Stall Fair-trade Tibetan dishes in a charming teahouse.

      Raw Vega Raw, organic, vegan and gluten-free dining.

      Best International Cuisine

      Linus’ BBQ Alabama-style barbecue.

      Coreanos Kitchen Lively KoMex restaurant specialising in fusion fajitas.

      Tuk Tuk Noodle Thai Uncompromising flavours at a top Thai restaurant.

      Drinking & Nightlife

      From antique teahouses and coffee roasters to craft-beer pubs and cocktail bars, Seoul offers an unbelievable number of places to relax over a drink. No-frills hof (pubs) are everywhere, and don’t miss that quintessential Seoul nightlife experience: soju (local vodka) shots and snacks at a pojangmacha

      KELLI HAYDEN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

      Drinking Trends

      Makgeolli, a milky alcoholic brew popular among the older generation, is now a hit with the young and trendy. Made from unrefined fermented rice, makgeolli clocks in at about 5% to 8% ABV. Seoul has several bars specialising in the drink where a range of varieties and flavours can be savoured. These venues often sell pajeon, said to be the perfect pairing.

      Until recently beer (maekju) was limited to ubiquitous and cheap local brands, all lagers, including Cass, Max and Hite. The craft-beer revolution has well and truly hit Seoul, though, with microbreweries and brewpubs producing locally inspired ales, and imported beers available in many bars and restaurants.

      Hof & Bars

      Drinking, and drinking heavily, is very much a part of Korean socialising, and many a big night out starts and finishes in a hof. Inspired by German beer halls, the term generally means any watering hole that serves primarily draught Korean beer, with the requisite plate of fried chicken and other anju (snacks commonly eaten when drinking). Always check whether a bar requires you to buy a plate of anju before drinking; places that don’t are called ‘one-shot’ bars.

      If you’re looking for something more sophisticated, there are plenty of craft-beer bars, cocktail bars and quirky drinking dens in places such as Itaewon, Hongdae, Sinchon and Gangnam.

      Best for Cocktails & Wine

      Southside Parlor Artisan cocktails by hipster mixologists.

      Fox Wine Bistro Top selection of wines in Hongdae.

      N.Grill Open-air bar with amazing views from N Seoul Tower.

      Namsan Winery Low-key Itaewon venue with affordable Iberian wines.

      Best Microbrew Bars

      Magpie Brewing Co One of Seoul’s originals pouring a range of celebrated craft ales.

      Made in Pongdang Brews and sells a range of Korean craft beers from pale ales to blondes to sours.

      Amazing Brewing Co Hip local microbrewery in Seongsu-dong.

      Best for Traditional Alcohol

      Mowmow Itaewon makgeolli dive off the busy bar strip.

      Moon Jar Smart and rustic bar with a good menu.

      Blue Star Pub Brass kettles full of makgeolli served in a divey hang-out.

      Muldwinda Most stylish bar for sampling fine-grade makgeolli.

      Best for Clubbing

      Club Octagon Gangnam megaclub regarded as one of the world’s best.

      Cakeshop Fun-lovin’, underground club in Itaewon.

      Soap Itaewon basement club pulling in world-class DJs.

      NB2 Sociable, high-energy club in Hongdae.

      Shopping

      With endless markets, multistorey department stores and glitzy malls, shopping is a 24-7 pursuit in consumerist Seoul. Whether it’s for hanbok (traditional clothing) or hanji (handmade paper), art-and-design pieces, cut-price cosmetics or K-Pop souvenirs, chances are slim that you will leave empty-handed.

      KOBBY DAGA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

      Always in Fashion

      For clothing, shoes and accessories, Dongdaemun Market and the surrounding high-rise malls offer the city’s biggest selection, though the area is sprawling and much of it is geared up for wholesale and fabrics. The narrow, brightly lit streets of Myeong-dong are more shopper-friendly and stock plenty of local brands. Larger sizes in clothes and shoes, souvenir T-shirts, leather jackets and tailor-made clothing can be found in Itaewon, where English is widely understood.

      Outfits by hot local K-designers – such as Lie Sang Bong, Kathleen Kye, fleamadonna, Doii Lee and Misung Jung – are best sourced in major department stores or the boutiques of Myeong-dong, Apgujeong and Cheongdam. For high-end fashion the ritzy Apgujeong Rodeo Drive in Gangnam district is a must.

      Crafts & Souvenirs

      Traditional souvenirs such as embroidery, patchwork wrapping cloths (bojagi), hanji, wooden masks, fans, painted wooden carvings and lacquerware boxes inlaid with mother-of-pearl (najeon chilgi) can be found at craft and souvenir shops throughout Insa-dong, the city’s best shopping area for Seoul-inspired goodies to take home. For a more limited, albeit cheaper, selection of souvenirs, check out Buildings C and D at Namdaemun Market.

      Best Markets

      Namdaemun Market Korea’s largest and most atmospheric market.

      Gwangjang Market Most famous for food, but also has vintage clothing and textiles.

      Dongdaemun Market Energetic 24-hour shopping and good market food.

      Seoul Folk Flea Market Fantastic place to sift through trash and treasure.

      Seoul Yangnyeongsi Herb Medicine Market Take in wonderful fragrances at Asia’s largest herbal market.

      Best for Fashion

      10 Corso Como Seoul High-end fashion by international and local designers.

      Lab 5 Good spot to seek out the latest in K-design.

      Åland Excellent selection of streetwear for men and women.

      Gentle Monster Edgy shades and frames as worn by Korean stars.

      Best Department Stores & Malls

      COEX Mall A shiny, modern megamall and

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