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    Insight Guides Poland (Travel Guide eBook): (Travel Guide eBook)
    Insight Guides Poland (Travel Guide eBook): (Travel Guide eBook)
    Insight Guides Poland (Travel Guide eBook): (Travel Guide eBook)
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    Insight Guides Poland (Travel Guide eBook): (Travel Guide eBook)

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    About this ebook

    All you need to inspire every step of your journey.

    From deciding when to go, to choosing what to see when you arrive, this Insight Guides book is all you need to plan your trip and experience the best of Poland, with in-depth insider information on must-see, top attractions like Wawel Castle and hidden cultural gems like the Bialowieza Forest.

    ·       Insight Guides Poland is ideal for travellers seeking immersive cultural experiences, from exploring the Chopin trail, to discovering the Great Mazurian Lakes
    ·       In-depth on history and culture: enjoy special features on festive foods and amber, all written by local experts
    ·       Includes innovative, unique extras to keep you up-to-date when you're on the move - this guide comes with a free eBook, and an app that highlights top attractions and regional information and is regularly updated with new hotel, bar, restaurant, shop and local event listings
    ·       Invaluable maps, travel tips and practical information ensure effortless planning, and encourage venturing off the beaten track
    ·       Inspirational colour photography throughout - Insight Guides is a pioneer of full-colour guide books
    ·       Inventive design makes for an engaging, easy reading experience

    About Insight Guides: Insight Guides is a pioneer of full-colour guide books, with almost 50 years' experience of publishing high-quality, visual travel guides with user-friendly, modern design. We produce around 400 full-colour print guide books and maps, as well as phrase books, picture-packed eBooks and apps to meet different travellers' needs. Insight Guides' unique combination of beautiful travel photography and focus on history and culture create a unique visual reference and planning tool to inspire your next adventure.

    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherInsight Guides
    Release dateMar 1, 2019
    ISBN9781789193268
    Insight Guides Poland (Travel Guide eBook): (Travel Guide eBook)
    Author

    Insight Guides

    Pictorial travel guide to Arizona & the Grand Canyon with a free eBook provides all you need for every step of your journey. With in-depth features on culture and history, stunning colour photography and handy maps, it’s perfect for inspiration and finding out when to go to Arizona & the Grand Canyon and what to see in Arizona & the Grand Canyon. 

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      Poland’s Top 10 Attractions

      Top Attraction 1

      Łazienki Park. Poland’s greatest public park is home to numerous palaces, and the city’s botanical gardens. Half of Warsaw visits on summer Sundays to enjoy free Chopin concerts. For more information, click here.

      Gregory Wrona/Apa Publications

      Top Attraction 2

      Wawel Castle, Kraków. For centuries this was the seat of power of Polish kings. It towers over Kraków to this day, a symbol not just of the city but of Polish greatness. For more information, click here.

      Dreamstime

      Top Attraction 3

      Morskie Oko. The largest and most beautiful lake in the breathtaking Tatras Mountains region. For more information, click here.

      Dreamstime

      Top Attraction 4

      Gdańsk Shipyards. Spreading along the Mołtawa River, the wonderfully restored waterfront boasts magnificent historic buildings, imposing old cranes, elegant moored tall ships and the pedestranised Granary Island. For more information, click here.

      iStock

      Top Attraction 5

      Białowieża forest. Take a walk on the wild side in the Białowieża primeval forest, where you may encounter bisons, lynxes, wolves and numerous bird species. For more information, click here.

      iStock

      Top Attraction 6

      Słowiński National Park. The main attraction of this biosphere reserve is its shifting sand dunes, some reaching 40m- (131ft-) high, but there are also deer and wild boars, lakes and desolated beaches to look forward to. For more information, click here.

      Gregory Wrona/Apa Publications

      Top Attraction 7

      Great Mazurian Lakes. The land of thousands of lakes, hills and dense forests is well suited to water sports, cycling and trekking. For more information, click here.

      Gregory Wrona/Apa Publications

      Top Attraction 8

      Chopin trail. Immerse yourself in Fryderyk Chopin’s music and learn about the composer’s life at several museums across the country, starting with the spectacular Fryderyk Chopin’s Museum in Warsaw. For more information, click here.

      Corbis

      Top Attraction 9

      Malbork Castle. The magnificent Gothic fortress is not only a great museum but also a venue of knight tournaments, sound and light shows, and the re-enactment of the castle’s siege every July. For more information, click here.

      Gregory Wrona/Apa Publications

      Top Attraction 10

      Gniezno Cathedral. The biggest Gothic church in Poland stands in the centre of what was the first Polish capital. The highlight is a magnificent pair of Romanesque bronzed doors depicting the martyrdom of St. Wojciech. For more information, click here.

      Gregory Wrona/Apa Publications

      Editor’s Choice

      Best cathedrals and churches

      Kraków Cathedral. Kraków Cathedral is a Gothic masterpiece, worthy of as much time as you can afford it. Do not miss the Sigismund Chapel or the labyrinthine crypt. For more information, click here.

      St. Mary’s Church, Kraków. The lush interior decoration of this 14th-century building was added over the course of the centuries by great artists of the day. Look out for frescoes by Veit Stoss and Jan Matejko. For more information, click here.

      Tyniec Abbey. Sitting imposingly on the banks of the Vistula, the Benedictine Abbey at Tyniec plays host to a series of summer organ concerts. For more information, click here.

      Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary, Starogard Szczeciński. This 13th-century pearl of Gothic architecture boasts a splendid rib-vaulted nave. For more information, click here.

      Sękowa Church, near Gorlice. This Unesco Heritage Site is one of the finest examples of wooden architecture in Poland. For more information, click here.

      Church of St Mary Magdalene, Wrocław. Famed for its Romanesque sandstone portal, which dates from the 12th century, St Mary’s is a triple-naved red-brick church with flying buttresses. For more information, click here.

      The sumptuous carved altarpiece by master craftsman Veit Stoss at St Mary’s Church, Kraków.

      Corrie Wingate/Apa Publications

      Jewish history and culture

      Museum of the History of Polish Jews, Warsaw. Housed in a magnificent building, this state-of-the-art museum tells the fascinating story of the Jewish presence in Poland. For more information, click here.

      Festival of Jewish Culture, Kraków. Get a taste of Jewish culture, music, history and cuisine during the immensely popular festival held in Kazimierz, Kraków’s historic Jewish district. For more information, click here.

      Jewish quarter, Tarnów. Take a stroll along Żydowska and Wekslarska streets to admire fabulous 17th- and 18th-century Jewish tenement houses. For more information, click here.

      Old Synagogue, Kraków. Dating from the early 15th century and extended in the 16th, the synagogue’s façade is a mix of Gothic and Renaissance styles; inside is the Museum of the History and Culture of Jews in Kraków. For more information, click here.

      Auschwitz. Now a place of pilgrimage and remembrance for Jews, Roma and any number of nationalities who suffered here, modern-day Auschwitz is a solemn yet compelling place that should be visited by all. For more information, click here.

      The infamous Nazi death camp, Auschwitz, is now a Unesco World Heritage Site and museum.

      Corrie Wingate/Apa Publications

      Best museums

      Warsaw Rising Museum. Learn about the city’s grimmest hour and its heroic men at this state-of-the-art venue. For more information, click here.

      Silesian Museum, Katowice. A must-see if only for its futuristic building with adapted historic coalmine shafts. For more information, click here.

      Interactive Museum of the Teutonic State, Działdowo. This museum presents in a highly entertaining way the rise and fall of the mighty Teutonic Order. For more information, click here.

      Art Museum, Łódź. The richest collection of Polish modern art is spread over three splendid locations in wonderfully converted historic buildings. For more information, click here.

      Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCAK), Kraków. Another old factory successfully repurposed as an art gallery, housing some of the best works from contemporary Polish and international artists. For more information, click here.

      Gdańsk Maritime Museum. Admire the Gdańsk Crane (Żuraw Gdański), used since the 15th century to raise the masts of the tall ships that docked in the harbour. For more information, click here.

      The great outdoors

      Tatra Mountains. With their spectacular peaks, the Tatras are a mountaineer’s paradise and a haven for wildlife, including rare eagles. There are also excellent trails for hikers. For more information, click here.

      Biebrzański National Park. An Eldorado for ornithologists and birdwatchers, the swamps and pit bogs of the Biebrza River are one of Europe’s wildest areas. For more information, click here.

      Pieniny Mountains. A raft ride on the River Dunajec, which winds through the dramatically beautiful Pieniny gorges, is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Poland. For more information, click here.

      Bory Tucholskie. Overgrown with pine woods, cut across by river valleys and dotted with lakes, Bory Tucholskie forest is Poland’s hidden gem. For more information, click here.

      Karkonosze Mountains. Straddling the Polish-Czech border, the Karkonosze offer great hiking opportunities and some of the most majestic waterfalls in Europe. For more information, click here.

      The Tatra Mountains in winter.

      iStock

      Best palaces and castles

      Wilanów Palace. Summer residence of Jan III Sobieski, Wilanów dates from 1679 and is the finest Baroque building in Poland. For more information, click here.

      Łańcut Castle. This former Lubomirski family residence boasts fine architecture as well as a classical music spring festival. For more information, click here.

      Krzyżtopór Castle. The partly ruined former aristocratic palace is breathtaking for its awesome proportions alone. For more information, click here.

      Książ Palace. Perched on a majestic rock cliff surrounded by thick forest, the ‘Pearl of Lower Silesia’ is the third largest castle in Poland. For more information, click here.

      Rogalin Palace. Situated on the Warta River amid beautiful parkland dotted with ancient oaks, Rogalin is a masterpiece of 18th-century Polish Baroque architecture. For more information, click here.

      Kwidzyn Castle. The highlights of this former Gothic fortress are its sewer tower and adjacent cathedral housing the tombs of the Teutonic Order Grand Masters. For more information, click here.

      Gothic Kwidzyn Castle.

      iStock

      Every hour on the hour a trumpeter plays the hejnał from St Mary’s Church tower in Kraków.

      Getty Images

      Folkloric dancing, Rydlowka Museum, Kraków.

      Getty Images

      Concert in the ornate St Anna’s Church in Warsaw.

      Getty Images

      Introduction: The appeal of Poland

      Often caught between the geopolitical forces of east and west, Poland has mastered the subtle arts of survival.

      For more than a millennium, Poland has played a vital role in European history. The country’s position in the heart of Europe has always made it a bridge between the two great cultures on its eastern and western flanks. The resulting diversity of influences has helped to shape the mentality of the people, who are open-minded about new ideas and warm and hospitable towards strangers.

      Colourful façades, Kraków.

      Getty Images

      Neither oppression nor the centuries of brutal violence perpetrated by neighbouring countries have succeeded in stifling Poland’s spirit. Even during times of upheaval, when the country was obliterated from the map of Europe, the safeguarding of national culture, the recollection of a glorious past, Christian-humanistic traditions and solidarity remained at the forefront of the collective memory. These values still abound.

      Poland has so much to offer – seaside resorts by the Baltic, hillwalking in the High Tatra Mountains, canoeing on the rivers and lakes of Mazuria, strolling through the Old Town in the historic city of Gdańsk, touring the monuments in Kraków or enjoying a beer in Old Market Square in Warsaw, the nation’s capital. In recent years, Poland’s appeal as a holiday destination has grown, as the range of accommodation has improved. Now the choice runs from luxury hotel with swimming pool and fitness suite to rooms in a private house, living with a Polish family, to camping by a lake.

      Handpainted Easter eggs.

      Corrie Wingate/Apa Publications

      Farmer at work.

      Gregory Wrona/Apa Publications

      If you are looking for some adventurous outdoor activities, Poland is just the place. You can explore the countryside on foot, by bike, on horseback or by boat. Hunters and anglers have also discovered the special attractions that Poland can offer. If wildlife is one of your passions, there is a good chance that you will catch a glimpse of some unusual species. Storks, for example, are very much in evidence in Mazuria, while rare species include bison, elk and tarpan, a kind of wild horse once thought to be extinct.

      As well as these natural treasures, Poland possesses some imposing buildings: the Teutonic Knights’ castle at Malbork or the magnificent complex on the Wawel in Kraków. And last but not least the Old Town in Warsaw and the heart of ancient Gdańsk have been rebuilt to their former splendour.

      The Polish people

      Despite centuries of foreign rule, the Polish people have maintained a strong identity and welcome visitors with lavish hospitality.

      Polish-British historian Norman Davies hit the nail on the head when he wrote that ‘for far longer than anyone living can remember Polish history has been marked by disaster’. But despite partitions, failed insurgencies, international complots, World War II atrocities and utopic post-war Communist policies, the Polish people showed astonishing resilience, courage and ability to overcome all odds. The emergence of the Solidarity movement, followed by the collapse of Communism and later membership of the EU all put Poland in the fast lane towards modernisation, which in turn has had an enormous impact on Polish society.

      Friendly smile in Warsaw.

      Getty Images

      Cracovian waitress.

      Gregory Wrona/Apa Publications

      The Polish character

      The old saying goes that where there are two Poles there are three opinions. Indeed, Polish love to discuss things, argue and even quarrel with each other over minor as well as fundamental matters. History and politics may feature heavily at Polish gatherings – and therefore at least some basic historic knowledge is needed to follow most conversations. However, being very hospitable, Poles would gladly change the subject if politely reminded that the intricacies of the national political scene do not necessarily hold much interest for their guests.

      Sympathy from the Germans towards the Poles emerged after the imposition of military rule at the end of 1981, when the West Germans sent millions of aid packages to the crippled country.

      Another strange Polish habit, perhaps ingrained in the national psyche by years of misery and misfortune, is the constant complaining about virtually everything, be it weather (for some it is always too hot, for others too cold or too rainy), work, family, health problems, ungrateful friends, the country going to the dogs or just a bus arriving two minutes late. This is particularly evident among the older generation, who also tend to have a more pessimistic mindset – miserly pensions being one of the reasons. The Poles’ discontent may be surprising or even shocking to foreigners, particularly considering the country’s booming economy. This vice, however, is strictly confined to the Poles – on no account try to beat them at their own game, particularly by criticising their homeland, as they can get very touchy. Jokes on Poles and their national character will most certainly fall on deaf ears, too.

      Otherwise Poles are wonderful companions eager to share anything with their new acquaintances and make them feel at home. As they say in Poland ‘a guest in the house, God in the house’. This usually translates into a lavish welcome and farewell parties with great quantities of food and alcohol. Refusal is not an option – it would be considered rude and put hosts in an awkward position.

      Over the centuries, big-heartedness, generosity and legendary prowess in battle have made Poles a much sought after ally and a fearsome enemy. But bravery – or bravado – can have its downside, as the frightening number of road accidents attests. Despite new motorways, severe fines and educational campaigns, driving in Poland may still prove a terrifying experience for an outsider. Speeding, cutting in and risky overtaking on narrow roads and lanes remain as popular as ever. The government has reacted by installing more and more speed cameras in big cities and along the main routes; this is likely to improve the situation, but for the time being, regrettably, Poland’s roads remain among the most deadly in the EU.

      Student bar in trendy Kazimierz, Kraków.

      Robert Harding

      Child in Gubałowka.

      Corrie Wingate/Apa Publications

      Traditions are important.

      Gregory Wrona/Apa Publications

      Young Poland

      The last two decades or so have seen dramatic changes in the once traditionally rural Polish society. Today, there are more people living in the cities (61 percent as of 2017), with thousands of young people eager to leave the countryside in search of a better life. The Warsaw region saw a 0.5 percent annual growth rate between 2002 and 2016, reflecting Warsaw’s better job opportunities and higher salaries. This, along with the ongoing modernisation and Westernisation of the country, resulted in a radical change of lifestyles and attitudes, particularly among young Poles. The once obligatory Sunday family dinners have not become a thing of the past, but they are no longer as common as they used to be. The hectic pace of life in cities like Warsaw encourages new patterns of behaviour. A few decades ago, the streets of Polish cities would have been virtually deserted at 9 or 10pm. Now, no matter if it is a normal working day or a weekend, they are full of stylishly dressed bar-hopping young people, drinking and chatting until the small hours. Going out at night in a group of friends has become a ritual for a growing number of city dwellers, whereas parties in private homes, particularly popular with the older generation and known as domówki, have lost much of their appeal.

      In general, young Poles are well educated, outgoing and know at least a bit of English, so breaking the ice is not a problem. Moreover, they haven’t inherited the inferiority complex of their parents, who were all too often in awe of anything from Western Europe. As in any country, young Poles often express radical opinions and brim with enthusiasm for new, shiny things, whether it’s the latest smartphone or a recently created political party. It’s therefore a great shame that so many of them leave Poland for the UK, the Netherlands, Germany or Belgium, stripping the country of its most valuable asset.

      This trend accelerated after Poland joined the EU in 2004, when many young Poles left to work in Western Europe, mainly in the UK and Ireland. It is estimated that some more than one million Poles work and live in the UK alone – and Polish is now the second most spoken language in England. With unemployment in Poland hovering at 6 percent in 2018 (reaching 12 percent among the youth), it is hard to say whether these young migrants are likely to return to their homeland anytime soon.

      Land of tolerance

      In the Middle Ages Poland had a far less brutal history than many other European countries. When Polish Jews were obtaining their Statute of Jewish Liberties at Kalisz in 1264, the rest of Europe was engulfed in religious wars. Monks from all over Europe came here to practise their religion; the Convent of Cistercian Brothers had a tremendous input into the growth of Poland’s wealth. From countries torn by religious wars and reformation, waves of Huguenots, Protestants, Jews, Hussites and members of the Orthodox church all came to Poland, where they lived in unison under the watchful eye of the Polish rulers.

      Young women in Poland are usually better educated than men.

      Corrie Wingate/Apa Publications

      Elderly couple enjoying a drink in Zakopane.

      Corrie Wingate/Apa Publications

      The power of knowledge

      The education system in Poland has been completely revamped following the fall of Communism to come in line with the modern Western standards. Compulsory education starts from age 7 and ends at 18. Following the introduction of a new law in 2017, schooling is set to comprise of eight years of primary school followed by either four years at sixth form/high school (lyceum), five years at technical school (technikum) or a two-stage vocational school. Besides public (state) schools run by the government and free of charge, a rising number of children in large cities attend either private or association schools with tuition fees. Many experts eagerly admit that Poland currently has one of the most effective educational systems in the world. Polish universities though are far behind their international competitors with the best two, the University of Warsaw and Kraków’s Jagiellonian University, finding themselves at 429th and 464th place respectively in the 2016 world ranking. Nevertheless, young Polish students, particularly those studying computing, are in great demand, quickly recruited by the biggest international companies. Polish programmers excel in prestigious international competitions including the world championships ‘Hello World Open’, Pandacodium Topcoder and many others.

      Folkloric band in Kamień Pomorski.

      Gregory Wrona/Apa Publications

      Children after church mass.

      Gregory Wrona/Apa Publications

      Women in Poland

      Women have always played an important role in the Polish society. Whenever men went to war or took part in yet another rebellion against foreign oppressors or were sent to Russian labour camps in the Far East, wives and mothers had to take care of families, houses and businesses left behind. As a result, they have become ferociously independent and resilient as well as ready to deal with any difficulties fate might throw at them. When offered a pension by the French government after her husband died, the then 40-year-old Marie Skłodowska-Curie, a Polish-born physicist and chemist and the first woman to receive a Nobel Prize, responded, ‘I will not accept any pension. I’m still young and can provide for me and my children’. In a way, her words epitomise the attitude of many Polish women who have fought hard for survival and emancipation.

      Recent years have seen a rise of feminism in Poland, with gender studies gaining some popularity – or notoriety as the right-wing commentators would have it – and prominent women urging politicians of the mainstream parties to introduce parity. While they scored a minor success in 2014 when parties had to include at least 35 percent of women on their lists during elections to the European Parliament, the stance of the ruling conservative Law and Justice party has led to serious concerns over women’s rights. At attempt to completely outlaw abortion in 2016 led to nationwide protests, after which the proposed bill collapsed. A second attempt to tighten Poland’s (already stringent) abortion laws saw thousands take to the streets again in March 2018. While the most recent bill remains in limbo, these are worrying signs for the Polish nation as it looks towards the future.

      Meanwhile, some well-educated and eloquent activists such as Professor Magdalena Środa or Dr Agnieszka Graff have become household names, often appearing as commentators on popular TV shows and in other media.

      Although the glass ceiling is still in place and Polish women earn less than men in similar positions, there are many examples of brilliant entrepreneurs who have made astonishing professional careers (Irena Eris, Wanda Rapaczyńska, Henryka Bochniarz to name just a few) trailblazing the path for thousand others. As a matter of fact, young women in Poland are usually better educated than men, adjust quicker to the changing professional environment, and have more determination to succeed and achieve professional fulfilment. The social impact of this has translated into fewer marriages – in 2013 their number fell to the lowest level since 1945 (although numbers have since been slowly rising) – and an alarmingly low birth rate (1.32), one of the lowest in the world.

      Multicultural Poland

      The Second Republic of Poland (1918–39) was a multinational state: out of 35 million inhabitants, only 24 million were of Polish origin. After the Poles came the Ukrainians, of whom there were an estimated five to seven million. They were followed by the Jews, who numbered 3.3 million, the Byelorussians, with 1.5 million, and a total of 500,000 Lithuanians and Germans.

      The new post-war Poland within the borders established at the conferences of Yalta and Potsdam was to be an ethnically homogeneous state free from conflict between different nationalities. Its borders were pushed westwards and the non-Polish inhabitants inside these new boundaries were to be resettled.

      Nevertheless, some 700,000 Ukrainians remained in Poland. Most moved to the Ukrainian Socialist Soviet Republic, but many refused to leave their homeland. In southeast Poland, a war broke out between the Polish government forces and the nationalist UPA (Ukrainian Insurrectionary Army). In 1947, the Polish authorities decided to distribute the remaining 200,000 Ukrainians over the whole country. In practice, however, they were resettled in the part of the country that had formerly been eastern Germany, since it was the only area where there were still unoccupied farms, abandoned by the Germans. The administrative regions of Wrocław, Szczecin, Koszalin and Olsztyn are now the main centres of the Ukrainian population in Poland.

      Officially, there are around 150,000 Ukrainians living in Poland, but every year thousands more arrive to work, mostly illegally, as cleaners, babysitters and construction workers, or to study at Polish universities, mainly in Przemyśl, a city across the border from Lviv. Poland was the first country in the world to recognise independent Ukraine in 1991 and has continued to support its road to democracy and full integration into the European Union.

      The several thousand Lithuanians who lived around Suwałki on the Lithuanian border were left more or less alone after World War II. After 1989, they had their rights fully restored, and today the Lithuanian language is taught at several schools in the Sejny and Puńsk areas. In the latter, Lithuanians make up more than 74 percent of the population. However, Polish-Lithuanian relations remain tense as, despite promises made by several Lithuanian leaders, Polish schools in Lithuania remain underfunded and Poles must have their names ‘Lithuanianised’ in all official documents. Lithuanian authorities also oppose the Polish spelling of street names in towns and villages where Poles outnumber Lithuanians.

      Over 200,000 Byelarusians were still in Poland after the war, of whom 36,000 were forcefully resettled. Those who remained in the country lived in concentrated groups in their home villages and towns in the area of Białystok, Bielsk Podlaski and Hajnówka.

      The country’s 300,000-strong German minority is the only one with a political representation in the Polish Sejm (parliament). Most live in the Opolskie region, with much smaller concentrations in Mazuria and Warmia. The signing of the German-Polish Co-operation Treaty in 1991 consolidated the rights of the German minority in Poland. On Annaberg (Góra św. Anny), a mountain that is considered holy by Poles and Germans, mass is now also read in German.

      The last quarter of the 20th century saw a minority revival with Kashubians in the north and Silesians in the south of the country being particularly keen on reclaiming their traditions and language. Today, Kashubian is again being thought at schools, and the names of the streets and towns in the region are bilingual. Religious festivals such as the sea pilgrimage of the Kashubian fishermen to Puck in June have become popular tourist attractions. Upper Silesia has witnessed a similar revival. Founded in 1990, the Silesian Autonomy Movement (RAŚ) (for more information, click here) works tirelessly to reclaim local identity, traditions and history, along with calls for the entire region to become autonomous. It even tried to have a separate Silesian nationality officially recognised by Poland, but its motion to the Human Rights Court in Strasbourg was eventually rejected.

      There is also a much smaller minority of Polish Tatars, around 2,000 people, inhabiting the Podlaskie region. Their ancestors usually served in Tatar units in the Polish or Lithuanian army and were granted land and privileges for their service. They still conserve their Muslim faith and rituals. Two mosques in Bohoniki and Kruszyniany have been classified as National Heritage sites. The local families run hostels for tourists, where they prepare delicious Tatar dishes.

      Cost of living

      Poland is no longer a cheap country, especially for those making a living there. However, tourists from affluent Western countries will find excellent Polish restaurants to be substantially cheaper than at home. A three-course meal for two in a mid-range restaurant in Warsaw will cost about 120 zł and is likely to be even less expensive in the countryside and smaller cities. Prices of basic products, such as dairy, meat and bread, have been on the rise for the last few years, but are still significantly lower compared to the West and their quality is excellent (seek out maturing Polish cheeses, such as Rubin, or regional ones like Koryciński, a flagship dairy product of the Podlaskie region). Cigarettes and alcohol are also among the cheapest in the EU.

      Clothes, electronics and luxury products sold in Polish department stores tend to be more expensive than in Western countries, particularly when compared to the average salary in Poland (the ninth lowest in the EU). A cup of coffee in one of the international chains will cost as much as in London or Paris. Efficient public transport, particularly in Warsaw, isn’t as cheap as it used to be, with a single 20-minute ticket for metro/bus/tram costing 3.40 zł (just under €1). The capital is by far the most expensive place to live in Poland.

      The language challenge

      Polish is a Slavic language and is the mother tongue of 99% of the population in Poland. While many people speak English in the major cities, in the countryside, communication difficulties are to be expected.

      With five genders, seven cases and a very difficult pronunciation, the Polish language is said to be among the hardest to learn. It is even hard for Poles themselves. According to experts, fluency in Polish is reached at the age of 16 (compared to 12 in English in England). Another peculiarity, just like the courteous kissing of women’s hands (still a common practice among older men), is the fact that Polish use formal titles Pan/Pani (Sir, Lady) when addressing each other. A ‘you’ form is accepted only among friends and colleagues. Sometimes it may have unintended humorous undertones, such as when a foreigner overhears a phrase like ‘Jest Pan kretynem’ (‘Sir, you are a moron’).

      The first complete sentence written down in Polish, found in Księga Henrykowska (The Book of Henryków) and dating back to 1270, had nothing to do with calling people names: a husband says to his wife: ‘Daj, ać ja pobruszę, a ty poczywaj’ which loosely translates into ‘You rest, and I will grind’. An early sign of the women’s emancipation movement in Poland.

      A 16th-century map of Warsaw.

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      Decisive Dates

      6th century AD

      The Slavonic tribe Polanie appeared on the Warta, an eastern tributary of the Oder. Related tribes occupy the Vistula basin.

      966

      The Polish court adopts Christianity. Count Mieszko unifies Polanie and neighbouring tribes.

      1000

      The first Polish church province is established in Gniezno.

      1025

      Bolesław I Chrobry is crowned King of Poland.

      1226

      Duke Konrad Mazowiecki asks the Teutonic Order of Knights to join him against the Prussians. The knights then establish their own state and rule over large areas of the eastern Baltic.

      1241

      The Mongols raze Kraków and invade Silesia. Silesian duke Henryk Pobożny dies in battle at Legnica.

      1320

      Duke Władysław I Łokietek is crowned king of Poland, having partly reunified the country.

      1333–1370

      Łokietek’s son, King Kazimierz III Wielki, consolidates his father’s territory. Poland becomes a regional power broker and begins its expansion eastwards.

      1384

      11-year-old Hungarian princess Jadwiga is crowned ’king’ of Poland. Her marriage two years later with the Lithuanian Grand Duke Jagiełło initiates the unification of Poland and Lithuania.

      1410

      Defeat of the Teutonic Order of Knights at Grunwald.

      1466

      In the second Peace of Toruń, the Teutonic Knights recognise the sovereignty of the Polish kings and cede territory to Poland. The Jagiellons now rule from the Baltic Sea to the Black Sea.

      1525

      The ‘Knights’ State’, which has been secularised in the wake of the Reformation, becomes the Duchy of Prussia, a fiefdom of the Polish crown, under Duke Albrecht of Hohenzollern.

      1543

      Copernicus publishes his book De Revolutionibus Orbium Coelestium on planetary motion.

      1552

      An Imperial Council grants the right to religious freedom.

      1569

      Under the Union of Lublin, Poland and Lithuania are united to form ‘an inseparable whole’.

      1572

      The death of Zygmund August brings an end to the Jagiellon dynasty.

      1648–54

      Rebellion of the Dnieper Cossacks under Bohdan Chmielnicki (Khmelnytsky) brings an army of Cossacks and Tartars up to the banks of Vistula.

      1655–60

      A Swedish invasion drives King Jan Kazimierz into exile. The Swedes are eventually expelled but the peace treaty of Oliwa ends Polish domination in northeast Europe.

      1683

      King John III of Poland (Jan Sobieski) is given the credit for expelling the Turks from Vienna.

      1772

      The First Partition of Poland.

      1791

      King Stanisław II, head of a Polish reform movement, proclaims a liberal constitution.

      1795

      In the Third Partition, Austria, Prussia and Russia occupy Poland despite fierce resistance.

      1830–32

      The November uprising against Russia is crushed. Some 10,000 insurgents go to France and many more march to Siberia.

      1863–64

      The January rising against tsarist rule ends with the execution of its leaders at the Warsaw citadel and 80,000 Poles are deported to Siberia.

      1918

      With military defeat of the three occupying forces, an independent Polish state is declared on 7 October. In November, Józef Piłsudski, as a provisional Leader of the State, assumes military and political control.

      1920

      Under President Piłsudski, Poland stops the advance of the Red Army at the Vistula and occupies part of the Ukraine and Lithuania. Under the Treaty of Versailles, Gdańsk becomes a ‘Free City’.

      1939

      On 1 September World War II starts with the German assault on the Polish garrison on the Westerplatte off Gdańsk. On 17 September, the Soviet Union attacks eastern areas of Poland. Hitler and Stalin then divide the country.

      President Lech Kaczyński is laid to rest.

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      1944

      The Warsaw rising – the culmination of an embittered and protracted resistance to Nazi rule – is led by the Polish Armia Krajowa (Home Army), backed by the government-in-exile in London.

      1945

      The ‘Lublin Committee’ proclaims itself the provisional government. Supported by the Soviet army, the communists suppress all opposition. The Soviet economic system is introduced. At the Yalta and Potsdam conferences Poland’s territory is extended westwards. In the east, large territories fall to the Soviet Union and its republics.

      1955

      Founding of the ‘Warsaw Pact’ and ‘Treaty of Friendship, Co-operation and Mutual Assistance’ with the Soviet Union and other Eastern bloc states in reply to the founding of NATO.

      1970

      The Federal Republic of Germany and Poland sign a treaty restoring normal relations. Forty-one people die as soldiers and security units open fire on protesting workers in Gdańsk.

      1978

      Archbishop of Kraków Karol Wojtyła becomes Pope John Paul II.

      1980

      Strikes in Gdańsk spread country-wide. Formation of an independent trade union known as ‘Solidarność’ or Solidarity.

      1981

      General Jaruzelski declares martial law on 13 December. The opposition goes underground.

      1983

      Lech Wałęsa is awarded the Nobel Peace Prize; it is collected by his wife Danuta as he is not allowed to leave the country.

      1989

      The communist leadership agrees to share power with the opposition headed by Lech Wałęsa. First partly free elections. Solidarity candidate Tadeusz Mazowiecki becomes leader of the new government.

      1990

      Following unification, Germany formally recognises Poland’s western border. Lech Wałęsa wins the presidential elections by a narrow majority.

      1993

      Last Soviet troops leave Poland.

      1995

      Aleksander Kwaśniewski, a junior minister in Poland’s last communist government, defeats Lech Wałęsa in a presidential election.

      1997

      Solidarity Electoral Action (AWS), the political wing of the Solidarity trade union, wins the general election and forms a new government. Jerzy Buzek becomes prime minister and oversees the introduction of a new constitution later in the year.

      1999

      Poland joins NATO.

      2004

      Poland joins the EU.

      2005

      Right-wing Lech Kaczyński is elected president after defeating Civic Platform candidate Donald Tusk in a run-off election. In parliamentary elections Kaczyński’s Law and Justice party win the most seats. Kaczyński’s twin brother Jarosław is named prime minister. Pope John Paul II dies.

      2007

      Jarosław Kaczyński’s deeply unpopular government is forced to resign, prompting a general election. The Civic Platform is returned as the largest party, and Tusk is named prime minister.

      2010

      Polish plane Tu-154 crashes near Smolensk in Russia. All 96 people on board, including president Lech Kaczyński and his wife, die in the catastrophe. The handling of the investigation by the Civic Platform government triggers bitter divisions within Polish society and political elite. Bronisław Komorowski is elected president.

      2012

      Euro 2012 football championships in Poland and Ukraine.

      2014

      PM Donald Tusk is elected President of the European Council.

      2015

      The Law and Justice (PiS) party wins defeats the governing Civic Platform (PO) in parliamentary elections. PiS vice chairwoman Beata Szydło becomes prime minister. Andrzej Duda defeats Bronisław Komorowski and becomes President of Poland.

      2016

      NATO summit In Warsaw. ‘Black Protests’ start in September to oppose the intended total abortion ban; on 3 October, thousands of Polish women go on strike as part of ‘Czarny Poniedziałek’ (‘Black Monday’).

      2017

      Mateusz Morawiecki replaces Beata Szydło as prime minister.

      2018

      100th anniversary of Polish Independence celebrated throughout the year. The Law and Justice party tables bill to tighten Polish abortion laws; protests ensue. The EU criticises Law and Justice party plans to take control of the country’s top judicial body, a move denounced as unconstitutional.

      2019

      Parliamentary elections set to be held before November.

      A glorious past

      During this period of history the newly formed Polish nation consolidated its power and took on much of its present-day territorial form.

      The vast plain between the Odra and Vistula rivers, which flow from the Carpathian and the Sudeten mountains as far the Baltic Sea, has been at the interface between two great cultures ever since the Stone Age. After a period of Celtic influences, west Slavic tribes settled here. They had already mastered the skills of iron making and had nurtured good relations with the countries of southern Europe.

      The Slężanie, the Mazowszanie, the Pomorzanie and the Wiślanie – the tribes who inhabited the area we now know as Silesia (in the southwest), Pomerania (in the north) and Mazovia (the region around Warsaw) – combined to form a defensive pact. To protect their settlements, which quickly developed into centres of craftsmanship and trade, they surrounded them with strong defensive walls.

      The Black Madonna of Częstochowa, a Byzantine icon of unknown age.

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