Roderos 1 Ma. Via Jucille Roderos Mr. Maximo Pulan Jr.

En 12 M02 11 September 2011 Passion for Fashion: How the Fashion Industry Changed Pinay Teenagers Introduction: As we walk along the streets of our community, we see people, especially teenagers dressing differently. Some of these teenagers dress to show off their style. Some of them express themselves and their personalities. If they see a new style, they tend to follow it, and some others try to create a new style, a new fashion trend. Attitude of teenagers toward choosing their outfits, as we may call them, varies from one individual to the other. Teenagers, especially young girls became hooked to fashion trends since the era of fashion boomed in the 1840s. During that time fashion is restricted for the rich. As time passes the fashion industry continuously develops. Fashion magazines evolved, giving young women instructions as to how they would dress or behave, until they changed their approach to instruction on how to develop an authentic personal style. Teenagers over the course of years seemed to have followed the trend in fashion from the 80s until the present. This paper is focused mainly on how the fashion industry changed pinay teenagers through time. It will discuss fashion in the 80s, 90s and fashion of today, with emphasis on the effects of the fads in each period. It will also have a deeper analysis on the mentalities and ideologies brought about by these trends and how it will relate to psychologies of female teenagers.

Roderos 2 I. Contemporary fashion and Filipino female teenager Fashion statements have been a craze especially for teenagers. They follow what they see in around them particularly in mass media, like the television, newspapers, fashion magazines and everything related to fashion. Fashion had been a huge chunk of their everyday lives and because of this, female teenagers had come up with a kind of classification according to what fashion sense she has: the kazzies, DBTs, tryhards and the originals. The kazzies are from ethnic minority background who are less fashionable and they dress in ways that emphasize their femiminity. The DBTs or short for double bay tredies are girls who dress in casual but expensive clothes to achieve an American-college look and they are usually middle or upper-middle class girls. The tryhards as the category implies are girls who try too hard to possess the style and the look, but never gets there. And the originals are the girls who are trend setters. They set fads and embody a style and a look that are recognized as individual hence they are considered as fashionistas. According to Engelhart, the way [a person] dress is a direct result of wanting to belong to a group. These girls who belong to either one of these categories are based on their styles. These categories are, in fact, categories of female friendship according to style. Female teenagers form their cliques and circle of friends based on their physical appearance particularly on the way they dress. Their fashion sense serves as a status quo, guiding them to where they ought to belong to. It also serves as an identification of a portion of themselves like their social status, which can be seen from the manner that they dress. Fashion crazes among Filipina teenagers dates back years and years ago. Filipino fashion trends have been influenced by the west and up until now, Filipino fashion trends keep on borrowing and borrowing from the fads and trends seen particularly from foreign media

Roderos 3 From 80s to the present fashion also has its own trend. Each decade has its own signature from the acid washed pants to the skinny jeans. Each has its own trends and each trend has its own identity. In these fashion eras women learned how to wear pants, from baggy pants to stretch stirrup to trouser suits, women wore them, teenagers alike. Skirts became shorter and shorter. Accessories became huge. There were a lot of alterations in fashion An example of Fashion from the 80s more likely called Retro fashion, is of a womans wear collection included fringed jackets, trousers and dark subdued colors with a doublebreasted slack-suit, padded shoulder, ankle-strapped platform shoes and creole turban. The 80s fashion is characterized by acid washed pants and denim jackets. Acid washed pants are, basically, pants chemically bleached breaking the fabric of the denim and fading the dye in the process. This has been a fad for both men and women. Shoulder pads were also a craze though it was considered by some of the fashion experts as a mistake in fashion. Pants, baggy or stretch-stirrup also became fads. Over-sized tops and miniskirts have also been a fad in this decade. Over sized tops were usually worn as sweaters and are usually paired with miniskirts or leggings or sometimes they are belted with big gaudy low belts with the top bloused over the belt. These tops comes with different eccentric patterns and pastel color All women especially girls loved miniskirts and for them, the shorter the better. Miniskirts come in denim which was very popular during those times, some of them are knitted and some are leather. They were often paired with leggings or leg warmers. Like the over-sized tops, miniskirts also come in different colors, neon or pastel.

Roderos 4 Another trend that very much characterizes the 80s fashion is the accessories. Big sized earrings were a fad during those days. Women of all ages, especially teenagers wear them and it is supposedly a fashion rule that the earrings must touch ones shoulders. If they didnt, it means that they are not big enough. Another fashion era in the Philippines is Fashion in the 90s it is best described as more of the cute baby bear look. Baby-doll dresses with puffed sleeves became a fad with thigh-high stockings and shoes described as chunky. 90s Fashion is an era which is considered to be an anti-fashion era. During this era, fashion can only be described as unusual and that people were not aware or they hardly know whats stylish and whats not For fashion in the 90s, what is less is considered to be more. If shoulders pads are a thing in the 80s, they disappeared in the fashion dynasty of the 90s. Accessories became nonexistent. Although many fashion fads were in the 80s became pass during the 90s, some fads were still retained but there were modifications. Miniskirts were still retained but they were altered. Ra-ra skirts or skirts with a froth of short frills or net set on a mini skirt were popular in the early 90s with teenagers. The 90s fashion was all about blazers miniskirts and dresses were paired with blazers. They also go together with long trousers. By the middle of the decade, gold finish buttons were added to the blazers, a signature of the 80s look. When in the 80s fashion was all about baggy and over-sized tops, the 90s got whole lot more daring. Halter tops and mid-riff revealing blouses became fads and blouses the hugs the curves of the girl wearing it became a craze.

Roderos 5 It also was in 90s that the fashion for the teenager was even out. Synthetic fabrics were out in the market where different designs and pastel shades could be made. A jacket was there which was made body fit and below it was worn a prolific full calf length skirt. Some more dresses which was popular among the teenager that time was full skirt in which was attached a decorous nylon bouffant petticoats. As one may have noticed the fashion during these times had transitioned greatly from the colonial period to the 80s and 90s. During the colonial period women covered themselves from head to toe exhibiting modesty and inhibition. Gradually this transitioned from very long skirt and blouse which covered the entire body, to miniskirts and bare midriff blouses which reveals a good portion of a girls flesh. The transition from the fully clothed body to revealing clothes indicates the result of the desire of freedom a girl or a lady wants. Some insights on the 80s and the 90s fashion is that fashion in this era is a medium or a tool in finding ones identity. They use fashion to reveal the hidden artists in them. They use fashion to break away from their inhibitions and express their true selves. According to Sebald, Fad is a term usually described as something that is in or acceptable in a particular group or society. (274) Socioeconomic class of Filipino teenagers affects their daily activities and there is a distinction between the rural and the urban youth. Typical Filipino teenagers usually wear jeans and shirt for boys and skirt and blouse for girls. Fads in Filipino fashion can clearly be seen among teenagers especially the female, usually in the urban areas. Teenagers most especially girls are fond of shipping for clothes and dressing up, trying on whats new and getting to have the latest outfit.

Roderos 6 Like in the 80s and 90s, fashion fads in the present are also comprised of skirts, blouses and accessories each modified to serve its own purpose or to have its own identity. Leggings have been a fad nowadays. Specifically cotton legging can be paired with anything from a hoodie to a skirt to a wrap dress. It said to be comfortable and versatile as it can be worn with anything. Notice that leggings were also a fad in the 80s but not so much in the 90s and again it has returned in the fashion world in the 21st century Over-sized tunics are like spin-offs of over-sized tops. Curve-hugging tops becomes out of fashion as it is replaced by these over-sized tops. The best thing about them is that they suit all body types. Over-sized tunics also became a fad during the 80s but was replaced by bodyhugging tops during the 90s. There was also the return of the belts. Thick belts are worn high on the hips. There are also worn with dresses and over-sized tops. The belt fad continues to spread almost everywhere. Belts were also borrowed from the 80s look. Miniskirts never go out of the picture when it comes to fashion although this time it was modified to become all the more short than the previous miniskirt. This is known as the micro miniskirt. This fad is popular amongst the female teenagers. Trousers were also modified to become skinny jeans. They are tight, hugging jeans which are the spin-offs of stretch-stirrup jeans. Fashion is goes round and round like a cycle Fads of today can be best described as the return of the 80s fashion. Fads from the 80s are recycled and modified to create a new look, although it is quite obvious that the idea of a certain outfit was borrowed from the fashion styles of this era.

Roderos 7 Some insights about this fashion era is that, since the 80s fashion serves as a medium to express oneself and serves as their identity, teenagers tend to follow or copy the identity of this era and they tend to modify it and claim it as their own. They would think that it would be something new, but in fact they are just replicas of what was created in the 80s. These are just some of the Filipino fashion trends borrowed from the western culture. These trends are still seen among the majority of Filipina teenagers nowadays. II. On the History and Filipino Fashion How Filipinos dress especially the female population during the colonial era was influenced greatly by the colonizers particularly the Spaniards. Among these costumes are the Baro at Saya to its evolution to traje de meztiza to the Terno until it finally modifies to the fashion that we have today. The Baro at Saya is considered as the national costume of the Philippines, although some says unofficially. It is just a simple skirt with a tapis worn over the shirt. According to Cruz, the Baro or blouse was believed to have been influenced by the costumes of the Blessed Virgin brought to the Philippines by Spaniard missionaries. Originally, it is believed to have butterfly sleeves copied by a Filipino dressmaker from the costume of Nuestra Senora de los Remedios. On the other hand the Saya or the skirt was derived from the basic lines of European style though some would think that it is a modified Patadyong. The Tapis was worn over the Saya as an assertion of native pride. However the tagalas were fond of wraps that they had to put the tapis to their skirts. (1-2) The Baro at Saya was then modified and turned into what was called as the Maria Clara (named after one of the prominent characters in Rizals Noli Me Tangere). The skirt was made of heavy satin with numerous panels and contrasting colors. The tapis was detached to the outfit for

Roderos 8 the reason that meztizas or Filipinas with Spanish blood thinks that they would look inferior if they worn it as the tapis was associated with apron which was worn by the servants. Some accessories were also added like the Panyo or the kerchief which was worn over the head like veil with a scapular believed to have the purpose of warding off evil entities. The Painita or the Spanish comb and flowers also became popular ornaments for the hair. Slowly this Fashion began to welcome new styles such as the Traje de Meztiza which was introduced by the Spaniards. This fashion features patterned skirts and embroidered camisas with matching wraps or panuelos. The Traje de Meztiza was basically camisa and Saya. The Traje de Meztiza gradually evolved in the 19th century. It had the matching embroidery of the camisas and panuelos which was then called the Ternos bordados Formerly the outfits were long and heavy and they covered almost the whole of a womans body wearing that outfit that women had to take tiny steps while walking to avoiding ruining the dress or getting themselves hurt. But the outfit was eventually was shortened and modified so that women can move freely, but somehow it still covered the whole body to retain the sense of modety. The lengths of the camisas were shortened and the panuelos were widened. The panels of skirts were lessen and sown together. Some have five panels, some have three and the Cola (train) became more prominent. The skirts gradually became less and less voluminous while the train increased in length by the end of the 19th century. Women during these times show not only their social status through their way of dressing but also their identity as an individual. Servants wore tapis mainly because they are servants and tapis are likened to an apron which would show that one belongs to the lower classes which is why Meztizas detached it from their costume and refuse to wear them because it shows

Roderos 9 inferiority. Instead they [Meztizas] dress in embroidered fabric and satin to show that they belong to the higher echelons of society and they are someone to be revered and respected Women especially young ladies, during the Colonial period were expected to be prim and proper and were expected to exhibit modesty. Women were expected at home and not in the public sphere. Young women are trained to work at home and are not permitted to go to school. This swathing only allows the young girl to take very small steps, and this timidity of gait in unison with their downcast eyes, gives them a very modest appearance (Cruz 5). This culture was shown in their clothes. The length and volume of their skirts made sure that their legs werent exposed to the public. Their camisas or blouses were long enough to cover most of their torso. Modesty was shown in every way possible by covering almost the whole body. Decreasing the volume and length of their clothes is their way of showing their desire for freedom. They want to break away the norms of the society and gain their independence under the patriarchal community. Because of this desire women especially young girls, discarded the accessories and frivolities in their costume for a more practical and convenient mode of dressing. They began to wear combat boots and a cartridge belt and this signified their involvement in revolutionary movements, their desire for greater freedom. Fashion tastes of Filipinas are constructed based on their purposes or necessities and how it would adhere to their chosen lifestyle and how it would adapt to the changes in this lifestyle. Their fashion taste reflects who they are what they do and how they see themselves to be and what they want to be. They see fashion as a way of being ones o own self and having a sense of belonging. They see fashion as a way of seeing themselves, as their own and as their identity or what they want to label themselves to be, hence fashion can dictate how they want to act.

Roderos 10 As mentioned above Filipino fashion has long been influenced since the colonial Spanish era and even if not admitted until the present time. Western fashion has long been acceptable in the society that traces of the Filipino way of dressing are starting to become less and less evident. Presently, Filipino fashion is not only influenced by the western countries but also by its neighboring nations like Japan and Korea. The eccentric and colorful fashion fads of these countries are being adapted by the Filipino fashion sense. Nowadays we can see teenagers wearing multicolored socks with their high heels which are not truly a Filipino fashion trend. Because of these foreign influences in Filipino fashion, there is a globalization in the fashion taste of Filipina teenagers. How they dress reflect how they want to be seen in the perspective not of a native Filipina but of a westernized or foreign-influenced one. As a result, the Filipina sense of fashion becomes more and more influenced by foreign cultures and the Filipinas lose their identity as being a Filipina. Conclusion: The way a Filipina dress serves as their identity. It shows they way they want to be seen and it shows how they want people to think and respond to how they dress. They want to have their own identity; hence they act accordingly to how they dress. As a result, fashion serves a disciplinary mechanism for Filipina teenagers. But because of the globalization of Filipino fashion and foreign influence being introduced to it, Filipino fashion becomes more and more modified. Traces of true Filipino fashion continue to fade. Since fashion serves as an identity for Filipina teenagers, globalization of Filipino fashion erase traces of their identity. As a result their identity is not one of their own but of a borrowed one founded on foreign influences.

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Roderos 12 Kerwin, Carlotta, ed. The Personal Touch. New York: Time-life Books, 1975. Peach, Lucinda Joy., ed. Women in Culture: A Womens Studies Anthology. Massachusetts: Blackwell Publishers, 1998. Slater, Judith J. Teen Life in Asia: Teen Life Around the World. Connecticut: Greenwood, 2004 Sebald, Hans. Adolescence: A Social Psychological Analysis. New Jersey: Prentice Hall, 1992 Sturm, Mary Mark et al. Guide to Modern Clothing. New York: McGraw-Hill Company Inc., 1973 Tantoco, Mons Romulo, ed. Baro: Philippine Fabric and Fashion. Manila: Cabinet Spouses Foundation, 2003.