:

POY
FDY

PP

PET
28 .
POY FDY

-3-

) (

-4-

) (1

-1 :
-5-

 -1-1 ) ( :
: ...
-1-2 ) ( :
:
...

-1-3 :

:...

-2 :

-2-1 : Regenerated fibers

-1-2-1 ) ( :
...

-2-2-1 ) ( :
...

- :...

-2-2 :Synthetic fibers

:
- : : ...

- : : ...

- : :

...

-6-

 - : : ...

- : .

92 %

41 %
31 % 19 %.

-1 : Staple fibers

-7-

 0.5 - 6 cm :

- 0.5 - 3.5 cm .

- 3.5 - 6 cm .

-2 :Filament fibers

:
GENERAL PRINCIPLES OF PRODUCTION PROCESSES

-8-

) (macromolecules
). (monomers

:
)(

)
( .

: Polymerisation

) (macromolecules

). (synthesis fibres

) PA ,

(PES
). (PAN , PP

-9-

: Relative viscosity t1
t2

= rel

- : Intrinsic viscosity

int r = rel c 0

: c ).(concentration vanishing
- : Melt flow index

= MFI

) (
MFI .

- 10 -

 :
- Poly-condensation

: .

) (2

n..... 4 3 2 :

..... )*. (oligomers

:
)Aliphatic di-acids HOOC-R-COOH (used for nylon 6.6
)Aliphatic di-amines NH2-R-NH2 (used for nylon 6.6
)Aliphatic amino acids H2N-R-COOH (used for nylon 6
)Aromatic di-acids HOOC-Ar-COOH (used for polyester
)Diols (bi-functional alcohols) HO-R-OH (used for polyester
-
) :

( .
*

: oligomer )( .

- 11 -

 - Poly-addition

) (3

CH2=CHX
X=H,CH3,Cl,CN,OH

:
.

) (

(Oligomers )( .

- 12 -


- )( .

Polymerisation techniques

) ( .

:
. " "batch

) ( .

- ) -

( )

( .

)( :

- : .

: )( .

* : .
) (

: ) (

"" " " .

*

- 13 -

) ( :

:
.

: .

:
.

: ) ( 0.5 1 % .

: ) ( 1 3 % .

- 14 -

)(0.25 0.5 %

 Spinning :

) ( Spinnerets )(
.

.1 :

) 70% ( .

.2 :

" "

) 30% ( .

) ( PA 6 ,PA 66 , PES , PP

) . (PAN

) ( .

) (

- 15 -

.
: :
-1 Dry Spinning

)(

) ( .

)(

.
-2 Wet Spinning

" "
.

)(
.

)(

) (

) ( .

- 16 -


General flowchart of the spinning process
) "("4

) (

) (

) ( .

) (

.

: .

- 17 -

- 18 -

) .(Chips -

)
. (grid melting device

) . (screw extruder

)
(

- 19 -

 :mF = VF .TSP 10.000

: mF ]. [g/min

: VF ]. [m/min
: TSP ]. [dtex

) (Td R

m F = v F .Td .R 10.000

:VB = 4mB d 2
:
: VB )( ). [m/min] (Spinneret

: mB ]. [g/min
: d ]. [mm
: ]. [g/Cm3

: QVF
VB

=Q

- 20 -

- 21 -

Melt spinning

Solution spinning

(4)

- 22 -

(Fig. 5)Typical cross-sections of fibres produced with different

spinning processes.

- 23 -

 Drawing

) (
.

( ) ( .

) ( orientation phase

) . ( crystallization- -phase

) ( spinning ratio

- 24 -

 ( single-phase process
) . ( two-phase process

). R (draft ratio

Pre-orientation and partial

crystallization

Drawing

Molecule orientation during drawing

- 25 -

Feed rollers

)Heating plate (if available

Drawing zone R=V/2V1

Delivery roller or draft roller

Drawing principle

) 1.2 (
) ( .

3 5
.

. Plasticizers

) (deformable
.

) (cold drawing )

(warm drawing ) (

) (contact plates

. immersion baths

- 26 -

 ) (thermal stability

Technologies for the production of continuous filament yarns and of
)discontinuous fibres (staple fibres
) (morphological
:

monofilament
.

) "("6

- 27 -

A) Continuous filament
yarns

B) Tow for staple

fiber production

a) mixer
b) extruder screw
c) main extruder
d) hopper
e) chip feeding line
f) side extruder
g) rotary gear pump
h) continuous filter
i) distribution line (manifold)
k) spinning position
l) cooling chamber
m) take-up head
n) tow for staple production
(Fig. 6) Melt spinning lines for continuous filament and staple fiber

- 28 -

EXTRUDER

(Fig. 7) Mechanical elements characterizing a production process

- 29 -


Continuous filament yarns

) monofilament

(yarns ) (multifilament yarns

)( "" )

dtex (den
)/( .

10 - 50 dtex
).(0.06 2 mm

) (multifilament yarns

3000 1000 2000

0.4

. dtex 5

) (microfilament

1dtex

). (200 dtex / 220 filaments :

) (spinneret )
( .

)( )

(entangled yarns ) (twisted yarns

) flat filaments (
) (poor covering power

). (textured yarns

- 30 -

) ( )

( multibundle spinnerets
.

) (6 A - :
.

) (Spinnerets 8 82 .
.

) 8( .

) (

1000 1800/

) (.

- 31 -

Fig 8 Basic configurations of different spinning technologies for continuous filament yarns

) (HOY , FOY

POY LOY

) (100 120 %
.

) (stability to ageing

- ) :

.....( .

" fully drawn yarns" FDY

- 32 -


Techniques for additive feeding in the spinning process
:

) (Single Units
) .(10 - 9

) (
.

) (
:

masterchips

masterchips

)(
.

) (metering pumps

single spinning positions

) . (thermal stress

- 33 -

Fig. 9 Typical configuration of a traditional spinning line from chips (N 8 and 16

positions)

Fig. 10 Typical configuration of a spinning line

with independent feeding(polymer + additives) on each working position

- 34 -

 Drawing process

)(11

(Fully Drawn Yarns) FDY

:

: Two-stage-process

). (LOY, MOY, POY

LOY

") "draw-twisters -( .

ring twister "

"

). (12 - A

: .

- 35 -

 )(
". "Spindle

600 1500 r.p.m

)( 4

. automatic doffing device

)) (draw-winder -(

) (Spindles take-up system

. ). (b-2C

2000 r.p.m

15-10

Spindle (.

) intermingling device
" " nozzle

.
(

Air interlacing Jet

- 36 -

 )
( main drawing zone

. ). (C:22

Fig. 12 Principles of two-phase drawing

- 37 -

 Single-phase process

) (4000-5000 r.p.m

) :19 . ( FDY

) . (godets )

( .

)
( .

- .

. - .

- 38 -

 )( Texturing

) (
.

18 ) 55%
(2002 45% 31%
13% 11% .

Fig. 13 Main processing stages of a continuous filament yarn

) (Textured yarn

) (Bulkiness

) (Covering Power ) (elasticity

) (natural aspect

: : .

- 39 -

)" (hygroscopicity

: "
.

) (Flat yarn

Textured Yarn :

) (Crimps

) (Waves ) (Loops

" "Bulkiness/
". "elasticity

14 -

" "false-twist texturing

Air-jet Compression-chamber
:

:False twist
.
: False twist textured yarn
.

- 40 -

Fig. 15 Scheme of the various texturing processes

Twist-texturing :

) (stretch yarns

."False-Twist" FT yarn

) : (bulked yarns

False-Twist-" FTF yarn

. "Fixed

- 41 -

 ""
.

texturing systems

:
Discontinuous method: twisting-thermosetting-de-twisting
:

( .

Thermoplastic Fibers " "elasticity

" "Thermal Stability

": "Helanca

)
2500 t/m 4500 (.

) 130C0( .

) (de-twisting )
(
.

)(

)(

)( )
( .
- 42 -

 ""elacticity )
(

" "thermosetting

) . (stabilized yarns or "set" yarns

:

). (Z , S
.

) .(150/S :

-
False-twist method

) ( " ".

) false-twist (.

" " .

- 43 -

) (16

)( ) (
" "thermoplastic deformation

)(1-16

- 44 -

( :

10 m/min ) 1000 1200 m/min

. (1500m/min

Fig. 17 Development of false-twist texturization speed

) (17

- 45 -

- 46 -

 " "
"False-twist with hollow spindle"Pin Texturing

Pin

. 3600

Fig. 18 Twisting with hollow spindle

) (18

)(
40.000 80.000 t/min .

) 900.000 t/min . (200 t/min

- 47 -


False-twist with friction disks

)( )

.(1972

: /

) (19

)(

- 48 -

 ) (20

) (guiding disks

) . (working disks

Twisting with friction disks

- 49 -

 :
Polyurethane ) (
)( ) ( ) (.

PA

150000
= t
+ 970 f

T dtex + 40

: t / .

: Tdtex ]. [dtex
f = 1 ) . (FDY

f = 1.1 1.2 ") "draw-texturization process . (POY

D/Y . 2.0

) (21

- 50 -


)( ] 2,000.000 [t/min

PES ] 167 [dtex ] 8,000.000 [t/min . PA

Fig. 22 Twisting with crossed belts

) (22

:
)Belt texturing (Nip Twister

) (Friction disc ). (Pin texturing

- 51 -

) (23 .

. V

:
: Vt .

: Vf .

)(23

:
-1 .

-2 . CP
-3 . VR

-4 / .

- 52 -

 L1

L2
).(24

)(24

) den (dtex

: (167 dtex) 150 den 110

) 2300 rpm (

X ).(25

- 53 -

 )(25

(Velocity Ratio) VR D/Y

= VR

:
= D/Y

)(m/min
)(m/min

)(m/min
)(m/min

) (26

Nip twister Friction disc

.
)( .

60%

- 54 -

 Bulk
.

)(26

- 55 -


Heating and cooling zones

1 2.5

)
(.

1600 2500

] 2000[m 200 3200 ] 1400[m

) 1C0 ( .

) (HT
500 - 600 Co

) (

) ( .

190 210

C0 PES 190 205 C0 PA 6.6 6.6 165

175 C0 . PA 6 6

) 1
1.5 m(
- 56 -

( 70C0 100C0
.

- 57 -

 : Draw-texturization

)(27

)(
) (DTY .

) (4000 5000 m/min

) (POY .

) Draw-

(texturization ) (R = 1.2 1.7

) (
PES . PA

- 58 -

Comparison of commodity PET dtex 167 f 34 (left) to Supermicro PET dtex

110 f 333 (right),
POY (top) and DTY (bottom)

- 59 -

 : Texturing machines

) (

1500m/min ) (

) PA .(PES

) ( ) ( )
(

) (FT

(False-twist Fixed) FTF

.

FT
.

H M . V

- 60 -

- 61 -

- 62 -

 Barmag M , V , H

H )

V M
.

- 63 -

 ) (
:

) 20 Kg (.

) 3 4 (
"." aprons

: ") " Dowtherm . (HT

: .

: .
: Dowtherm .

- 64 -

 : ) 1-4-1 (1-8-1
) 45 mm . ( 6 mm

) 1- :
. (3%

: ) 3( ) 4-5
.(Kg

: .

- 65 -

Fig. 28 Two-oven draw-texturing machine with V configuration and two independent sides.
For FTF or FT processing of PA yarns dtex 11-110 and of PES yarns dtex 33-330
FTF FT V ( ) ( 28)
dtex 33-330 dtex 11-110

- 66 -

Fig. 29 One-oven draw-texturing machine with H configuration and two

independent sides.
For FT processing of PA yarns dtex 11-110

FT H ( 29)
11-110 dtex

- 67 -


False twist texturing units Friction Disc

1973 Ernest Scragg

Pin
.

) (30

)(
.

" "tpm

-1 .

-2 .

-3 .

-4 ) (Profile .

-5 .

-6 )/( .

-7 .

- 68 -

" "entry and exit discs

)(30

Surface Speed of the Disc

. .

Y1
Yarn diameter

) (31

- 69 -

D1

)(
)(

1.5 = D1 " . "

0.009334 = Y1 " . "78 decitex

= 3.1416
=

14.14
3.1416 4.5
=
0.02932 3.1416 0.009334

= 482

482 "

" .

Disc Yarn Ratio (D/Y) D/Y

)( ) hollow

(Spindle
.

) (Friction disc texturing

) (30 70%
.

)(Friction disc unit

) (tpm
) Yarn

. (bulk

) Surface speed of disc (M / MIN

= Disc Yarn Ratio D / Y ratio

) Yarn speed (M / MIN

- 70 -

 )= (D/Y
:

= m/min 600

)(m/min
)(m/min

) (32

= m/min 1260
1260
= 1.2
= D/Y
600

= m/min 850

= m/min 1955
= D/Y

1955
850

= 2.3

)(32

D/Y . 2.5 2.5

D/Y
.

D/Y
.

D/Y .

- 71 -

 D/Y )(TPM

D/Y
. Pin twist texturing

) (Multi filament yarn

) (monofilament yarn dtex

Friction disc texturing .

= 78f34 .

78dtex 34 .
= . 600 m/min

. 2.02 = D/Y

): (tpm

-1 = 0.0093336 .
= 0.02932 .

-2 = 4.5 .

= 14.137 .

-3 1 = /

=. 482.16 = 0.02932 / 14.137

-4 ) = (m/min D/Y

= . m/min 1212 = 2.02 600

-5 = rpm /

= . rpm 8573 = 14.137/1001212

-6 = 1 rpm

= . 4133557 = 8573 482.16

-7 = tpm / )(m/min
= . tpm 6889 = 600 / 4133557

- 72 -

 tpm Pin texturing machine

. 2800 tpm

6899 2800
100 = 60%
6899

: (decitex) dtex

10000 .

) .(33 -
= .

D
L
)(33

: R ). (Cm
: D ). (Cm

: L ). 1000 000 Cm = (10 000 m

) 76 = dtex ( .

: = 1.14 g/cc 1.38 g/cc .

. 3.14159 =

) Dtex ( = R 2 L

1.14 1000000 R2 3.14159 = 78

- 73 -

 :
78
]= 0.000021779[cm
3.14159 1000000 1.14
]R = 0.0046668[Cm
= R2

]D = 0.0093336[Cm

= 0.02932 = 0.0093336 3.14159 = D .

:

]= [cm

dtex

0.003548

fiber Density

. dtex

: 78 dtex 10 000 m . 78 gr

20 dtex 10 000 m . 20 gr

dtex .

78

dtex 78 dtex

0.9 g/cc 1.14 g/cc

dtex D/Y .

. POY

D/Y .
)

( Pin texturing .

) (20f7

D/Y .

D/Y
.

- 74 -

167F48

PE

2.45

800

13.864 0.038996 1960

363

2.513 6.283

110F48

PE

2.30

800

13.016 0.031649 1840

447

2.907 7.267

D/Y

110F34

PA

2.02

700

10.002 0.034822 1414

406

5.801

2.32

Cm

78F34

PA

2.02

700

10.002 0.029322 1414

482

2.756 6.889

m/min

m/min

rpm

) %60(

20F7

PA

2.30

900

14.642 0.014848 2070

952

6.196 15.49

) ( ) . (D/Y

Forward Speed Pumping .

- 75 -

 )(34

) (35

- 76 -

)(36

)(

)(
.

) (37

)(37

- 77 -

 ) (38

) (38

Positorg Rieter-Scragg .

)(38

-1 .

-2 .

-3 ) .(39-

-4 )( .

- 78 -

 )(39

FAG

3 5 .

) (40

6 9 .

)( . Ra

Ra . Ra 0.85
0.3 .

" "
.

- 79 -

 )(40

:
-1 / .

-2 .

-3 .

- :

- :

)( .

- 80 -

 - :

.

.

)(

)(

- :

4 6

dtex .

- :

.
.

)( :

C D

- 81 -

 )( :

)(

) (41

- 82 -

) (42

- 83 -

 ) (
)Two-yarns twisting method (duo-twist method

"

"thermoplastic deformation .

) ( )

( . 600 m/min

-
Thermo-mechanical processes with deformation obtained without
twisting

Method with mechanical compression chamber
)(

) (

") "Banlon :
(
.

) Crimping

(boxes ". "Tow Fiber

- 84 -


Air-jet compression chamber method

)( ) ( Jet .

)(43

) (
""three-dimensionally shaped bending

.
)(

) . (44
PA PP . BCF
- 85 -

Fig. 44 Texturization principle by air-jet compression chamber

( 44)

- 86 -

 Knit-de-knit method

) (

.
) . (500 m/min

)(45

- 87 -

 Blade method

Agilon

) :(
) ( .

Heater

"Blade method "Edge Crimp Method

)(46

- 88 -

 Gear Method

Pinlon

) (600 m/min

) (47

- 89 -

 ) (48

- 90 -

Air jet method

) (1952

) Intermingling system (

) Taslan Taslanized

( .

" "Nozzle

) (Loops .

)(49

- 91 -

 Air-jet :
.

)( .

)(
.

Air-jet
) : (

)
( .

) (50 330 dtex , Air-jet

- 92 -

 ". "air-jet nozzle

50 m/min 20 m3/h

) (
500600 m/min 8 12 bar

. 5 6 m3/h

)(51
) (air-jet

Aerodynamic

Air-jet

5% .
- 93 -

 Air-jet :
.

).(Casual wear
.

.
Air-jet
) 100

. (dtex

Air-jet
Air-jet ) (POY

) (humidifiers
.

- ) 20 Kg(.

- .

- .

" "godets . - ) (air-jets .

)( : ) 100 1500 mm : . (140 240 Co :

- .

- : .

- .

- 94 -

 Thermo-chemical processes

: Bicomponent yarns
.
.

: Bi-retractable yarns
.

- 95 -

][high-bulk (HB) acrylic yarns

 Properties of textured yarns

). (52

air-jet yarn

)false-twist yarn (single oven

)false-twist yarn (two ovens
knit-de-knit yarn
compression box textured
yarn

bicomponent yarn

Schematic longitudinal view of textured yarns

) (52

) Crimp contraction

. (Crimp elasticity

"

) ( " .

:
.- 96 -

 - ) ( .

- : ) Lo ( .

: ) L1 ( . - :

Lo L1
100
Lo

Heberlein Method

) 10 m 10( . 1 CN/tex

60 70 C0 10 min
PA 15 min PES

) ( 60 C0
] 1.8[CN/tex . (Lo) 1 min

) (60 min 60 C0 ) (60 min

] 0.018 [CN/tex . (L1) 1 min
100

) (Lo L1
Lo

- 97 -

= KK

Fig. 53 Various typologies of multifilament polyester yarn (SEM microphotographs)

(( ) 53)

- 98 -

)Fig. 54 Multifilament polyamide yarn (SEM microphotographs

) (54 ) (

- 99 -

BISFA

) 2500 dtex ( 200dtex

]. 2[CN/tex

120 C0 30 min
) (PES,PA 12 .

] 2.0[CN/tex . (Lo) 10 min

] 0.01 [CN/tex . (L1) 10 min

100

) (Lo L1
Lo

=E

- . E = 35 50 % high elasticity

. E = 25 35 % medium elasticity - . E 25 % Low elasticity

Crimp Stability
' 'S
.

) = S / ( . 100

- 100 -

 Twisting

: Twist intensity twist level

/ . (twist / meter) t/m

: Twist direction
:

: S .

- : Z

Fig.55: Twist direction

) (55

: " " Twist Coefficient

tex :

t
Ttex
100

= Ttex

.t/m:t

: Ttex . tex
- 101 -

 Twist inclination angle :

-1 .

-2 .

:
:

tan .1000
D.

=t

: .

: D ]. [mm

. [t/m] : t

- ) ( .

- .

- .

)( ) ( .

- .

" "intermingling

) False

(Knots
FDY POY .

) (56

- 102 -

 :
: 10 20 t/m - .

: 160 800 t/m - .

: 300 500 t/m - .

: 2000 3000 t/m - .

- 103 -

.
:
2

= Draw Ratio

= Take up Speed Ratio

= Take up O/F %

5
2

) 2 100 (5
2

. 474 m/min = 1

. 600 m/min = 2

. 570 m/min = 5
= Draw Ratio

600
474

= Take up Speed Ratio

= Take up O/F %

)100 (570-600
600

- 104 -

= 1.266
570
600
= %5

= 0.95

)(57

- 105 -


= Draw Ratio

= 2nd Heater O/F Ratio

= 2nd Heater O/F %

2
1
3
2
4
3
4
3

)(58

- 106 -

" "Spindles
". "dtex

:
- .

- .

-1 " "dtex .POY

-2 .

POY .

POY
275dtex . 275 290 dtex

// :
// =

)/( 60 ) (dtex
10000 1000 100

- 107 -

 / :

/ =

/ =

)/( 60 ) (dtex
10000000 100
)/( 60 ) (dtex
9000000 100

- 108 -

 ) UNI (6699-70
DENOMINATIONS AND REPRESENTATIONS OF SOME YARN
)STRUCTURES (according to UNI standard No. 6699-70
: Twist single yarn
) ( .

:Double or plied yarn

.

- 109 -

 : Simple-twisted yarn

: Composite-twisted yarn

- 110 -

- REFERENCE BOOKS OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY:

MAN-MADE FIBRES
(April 2004)
by Cesare Andreoli
Fabrizio Freti
- Complete Textile Glossary (Celanese Acetate LLC 2001)
- Heberlein Fiber Technology Inc.
PU Disc Technology
By Christian Simmen

- Barmag brochures
:

/1/ -

:
/2/ -

- 111 -