Planos Quickie

TABLE OF CONTENTS ‘HAPTER me OF PAGES NO. OF SHEETS SECTION 1 1 DESCRIPTION AND INTRODUCTION 3 2 2 BILL OF MATERIALS 1 1 3 COMPOSITE MATERIALS EDUCATION 23 2 4 INDIVIDUAL PART CONSTRUCTION 2 1 5 HOT-WIRING & 2 6 AILERONS, RUDDER, AND ELEVATORS CONSTRUCTION 3 2 7 VERTICAL FIN CONSTRUCTION. 2 1 8 BASIC FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY 5 3 9 MAIN WING CONSTRUCTION 5 5 10 CANARD CONSTRUCTION 10 5 i WHEEL. PANT/'TIRE/WHEEL /BRAKE. ASSEMBLY 6 3 B MAIN WING AND CANARD MOUNTING a 2 B CANOPY ASSEMBLY AND. MOUNTING 4 2 4 FUSELAGE DETAIL ASSEMBLY 10 5 S [APPENDIX SHEETS 1 THRU 6 6 6 sCTYON 1 15 MAKING YOUR Q2,TRAILERABLE 2 1 6 ENGINE INSTALLATION 6 3 v7 FUEL SYSTEM INSTALLATION 3 2 8 TUSTRUMENT AND PITOT-STATIC SYSTEM INSTALLATION 1 1 5 LECTRICAL SYSTEM 1 1 2 COMPLETING YOUR Q2 5 3 ADDITIONAL Q2 DOCUMENTATION TIME CONTENTS DATE OF FIRST ~ ~~ PUBL TCRTTON & Pilot's Manual Flight and maintenance manual includes normal and 1 May, 1981 fenergency procedures, weight and balance, check lists, detailed Flying qualities descriptions, operating imitations, performance charts, first flight test procedures, ‘pilot checkout procedures, and systems descriptions. Puickie Newsletter Publ ished quarterly (Jan, April, July, and October); 25 Way, 1978 includes plans changes, builder tips, options, current and future developments, and dates and information on future seminars. G2 Information Package Provides general information on the Q2, incTuding 9 February, 1981, performance, construction techniques, and a poster. Quickie 8°92 Composite Provides an education in the techniques required in 8 April, 1981 Naterials Introductory the building of a Q2._ Includes a booklet, and Package sufficient materials for several suggested proJects. Somewhat redundant with Chapter 3 of the 2 Construction Plans ‘The QUICKIE QZ kit, properly constructed, will reproduce the successful original QUICKIE 92 designed, and tested by QUICKIE AIRCRAFT CORPORATION. QUICKIE AIRCRAFT CORPORATION is not responsible, and makes no warranties, express or implied whatsoever, regarding the structural integrity, performance, flight characteristics, or safety of the Buyer's compléted aircraft and its component parts. QUICKIE AIRCRAFT CORPORATION has no control and assures no control over the Buyer's ability to successfully construct and test the QUICKIE 2 AIRCRAFT. Buyer expressly waives any and all clains arising from Structural integrity, performance, flight characteristics, mechanical failures, and safety against QUICKIE AIRCRAFT CORPORATION. Buyer acknowledges avareness of the risks of flying a homebuilt aircraft. Buyer acknowledges that the FAA nust inspect the aircraft at construction intervals, as well a5 the completed project, prior to flight and should work with his local FAA representazive regarding the construction and licensing of the aircraft. QUICKIE ATRCRAFT CORPORATION reserves the right to make recommended revisions in the plans and construction of the aircraft at any tine without 11abiT ty to QUICKIE AIRCRAFT CORPORATION, as such rrevistons or changes may be deened advisable from tine to tine.DESCRIPTION AND INTRODUCTION DESCRIPTION AND INTRODUCTION The 2 is a high performance, honebust aircraft: Its compact external size and extremely efficient Gesign results in super performance and unequaTled fuel econony using a low horsepower engine. Inside, it provides side-by-side seating confart for a pilot up to 6°B" talT and 250 tbs, plus passenger, as well 5 soae baggage in the roomy comartrent behind the seat. [ts canard configuration was designed not only for performance, but to provide improved flying qualities and safety as conpared to the conventional Vight_ plane, The origin of the Q2 dates back to 1977 ‘Although the Q2 has much in commen with the QUICKIE, considerable progress has been made since that earlier effort. As a result, the QZ has lower drag than any other twa place aircraft available to the public. Likewise, it has proven to be the most fuel efficient two-placé aircraft ever offered te the public. The Q2's high-lift canard (forward wing) is fitted with a plain elevator that controls the aircraft's pitch attitude. The canard also serves as ‘the main’ landing gear spring since the main gear 1s mounted on the tips of the canard. This feature results ina rerarkably snoath ride as well as out- standing ground stability during taxiing, takeoff, ‘and landing. Roll capabitity is provided by ailerons on the ‘inboard protion of the main wing Yaw control is provided by @ rudder mounted fon the vertical fin, and is actuated by convent= ‘onal rudder pedals. ‘The pitch and roll capability is provided by a side stick controler in the center of the cock- Bit. This feature permits precise control of the 2 while reducing pilot fatigue and cockait. clutter. Optional dual controls provide the option of pilot checkout and instruction. The tailwhee! is actuated directly from the rudder pedals, without any springs, thus providing positive steering at all times while on the ground Since the tailwheel is not raised on takeoff rol Tike other taildraggers, this positive stecring is available until the aircrart is alrborne, making for very safe takeoff and landing characteristics. Even though the Q2 has Tow horsepower, it can cutperfors most general aviation aircraft while retain- jing unequalled fuel econony. The maximun speed 1s actually faster than most retractable gear eircraft, Such as the Piper Arrow, and the fuel economy exceeds 60 miles per gallon ‘The Q2 obtains this remarkable performance without resorting to retractable landing gear, witout Flaps, without turbochargers, and without variable pitch propellers. Further, the Q2 was designed to be built by the inexperienced builder, so these Q2 Construction Plans and the Q2 kit contents have been developed for ease of construction. Construction tine should require only 500 wanhours spread over less than one year of the builders spare time, with no special tools required The composite structure of your Q2 provides some inportant advantages over conventional metal, wood, oF fabric construction. Tt has been tested’ to Voads far in excess of those required far FAA certifi- cation. Fatigue margins are higher. Contour maintained underload, the structure does not "oil can," buckle, or distort, It provides excellent insul~ ation and danps noise. it has no hidden joints, no water traps, and is far less susceptible to corrosion, Tt is easier to inspect, more redundant, and easier to repair. It is not susceptible to thermal stress due to temperature changes. Properly protected fron UW, it has an untinited life. PAGE 1-1 Perspective The builder of an anateur-built asreraft is the rranufacturer; he is responsible for quality control fon all parts, all construction, and the conduct of his fight tests. ‘hile Quickie Aircraft. Corporation 1s not the manufacturer of your aircraft, we to, ‘through these plans and Services, provide you with Information about how ur Q2 was built. and’ what we feel” ts the best way for you to build a safe, reliable airplane. Meco encourage you £0 ouild the airplane a5 shown on the plans Because we have found that our airplane provides us with relfabiTity and safety, and any" probiens that we experience with our aircratt are documented and reported in *The Quickie Nevsletter" We nave gone to a considereble effort. tn developing the design, the structure, and the systens, and prov- ing their Adequacy with appropriate tests. TF you nodify the airplane and then ask us if your modification witl work, we cannot give you an answer without eonducting the appropriate tests and tatatty"quatifying the madificetion. This would obviously be quite expensive. Our concern theny {3 that if your modification ts not successful, and causes an incident or accident, this would Be atert= buted to our design, the 2.” Because of this, we ust. insist that. 1? you modify: the atrptane with any trajor change such as’ an aerodynamic change, primary Structural change, or using @ non-approved engine installation, that you eal? your airplane a ¢iffer- ent name, rather than a 02. ’Tf you make a aajor Change, you mist consider yoursel involved in Baste aiferaft design and developpenty an extrenely ‘risky business, fs auch its not fair for vs to be associated with any results of your deveTopaent. We State this, not to discourage inventiveness and Brogress, but to release any cannection of your new devetopnent efforts with our proven design, the Q2- Weare particularly concerned about. individsois using alternate engines to power their Q2'e., The {2 was: designed around the engines any change Would require. an exhaustive test progran 12 determine not only the new engine's suitability as an aircraft Powerplant, but also its suitaDivity as a Ge pover- lant “nese Q2 Construction Plans have been specifically designed to educate you in the construction materisis, their use, ond to guide you through each step of assonbly in the most effteient manner possible, It is our intent to drastically reduce the non-eonptetion Fatet"comon to honebusTé areraft. With that In ining, we have 1 "brecedes the plans with an education section intended 19: thoroughly acquaint. you with the toots and materials, and fow to use then. 2. Laid out the plans in a detailed, step-by-step format, to anseer the questions of hat do 1 next?” 3. Provided 217 appropriate information to each step adjacent to the words” 4, Provided full-size tenplates, ready to cutout and use, t0 avoid the work and confusion associated with scaling up drawings. 5. Provided a conpiete Kit fram ne source 10 eliminate time spent looking for materials. Identified the dt‘ricutt to build stems, and ‘included then’ (prefabricated and ready to install) with the basic 02 Kit, 7. Set up our newsletter, “The Quickie NeusTetter" asa continuing plans updating/correcting systen. * Over 808 of hosebuilt airplane construction projects started, are never Finished and Flow. ** Because plans updates occasionally are of a sandstory nature, 2 subscription fo "The Quickie Rewslettér" is mandatory for those building 2 92.Suitding Sequence The nature of the Q2 structure requires that a part be left alone to cure fore longer period of time than that required to build it. Thus, you will find that when following the step-by-step order, you will often find yoursel* out of work, waiting fora cure. In most cases, you can skip to another chapter and build another’ part while waiting. With a Tittle play ning and faniTiarity with the entire manual, you should be able to use all of your tine productively. Questions? Please use the procedure detailed here if you do not understand sonething and need an answer. First of all, do not be concerned if you do not understand everything the first tine you read through the plans. Many” things that may not be obvious just reading the Grawings, will be obvious when you have that portion of the airplane in front of you or have built a simi~ ar part in a previous chapter. Also, we will be able to help you better if you are Tooking’at that portion of your airplane. So, do not ask for clairfication until you are really working on that particular chapter. We have found through our Quickie and 02 experience that the majority of questions that the hhonebuitder asks are already answered somewhere in the plans. We have made considerable effort in the 2 Construction Plans to make the information visible. Tf you do not understand something, study the words in the step, study the sketches and all related sections/views) photos, then look through the fullsize drawings and conponénts that show that portion of the airplane. If the answer is stil1 not found, it may be that the iten is covered in detail in another, chapter (there is some necessary overlap). It ts possible that a question related to the operation of 2 part of the airplane ar its maintenance 1s answered jn your Q2 Pilot's Manual. Also, check your back issues of "The Quickie Newsletter” for plans updates or clarifications. Ok, if you have checked everything and you are stili stumped, you can do one of three things 1. Ask a friend. Often a description of an iten is unclear to one individual and clear to another 2. Write to Quickie Aircraft Corporation, leaving room on the paper under each question’ for our answer, INCLUDE A SELF-ADDRESSED, STAMPED, ENVELOPE and? INCLUDE YOUR ATRCRAFT SERIAL WOWBER. We do our bast tO answer all such questions within two days of receipt. We can- ot answer questions regarding the application of non-reconmended materials or regarding non-approved modifications. Quickie Aircraft Corporation P.O, Box 786 Nojave, CA 93501 3. Call Quickie Aircraft Corporation: 805-824-8313, Also, Tet us know if you have found a better way of doing gonething. “If me agree, we'll publish it Ta “ine Quickie Nevetetter'"so thet’s1T Quickie butlaers can benefits If tt ts nol a good idea, we'll tell Sou sy Sf you snetuce"s serfeacaressodstanped crvelope. Oo keep us up to date on the progress of your project. “Send us a black and unite spap shot of your Shrplane for" publication in “The Quickie hewsletter=, Photas"tn the nensvetcer are particviarly Senet ictal Wi thay are of an aren oF the airplore that's nor Clearly shown with photos or sketches in the plans. Renesbery "the prinary purpose of the Quickie Res esters fs to Support Jour airplane proveet, Te Jou'are-tet's menber of The Experimenta? Asrerafe’Rasoc ation (EA8), 0 Join. This as the nly" organtatfon who Tooks out forthe hangout der S2 far te FAA regulations are: concerned,” Heabership {in your local EAA can be extremely beneficial. both in batiding your airplane and aeet ng peopte who Shore your interests Thety-nonthty aust seaefons ‘Spare Bviatlonyt 1s worth the membership fee in ‘tee. EAR Box 229 Hales Corners, Wisconsin $3130 EAA often publishes’ reports on builder's projects, so send then photos and sone words on your progress. PAGE 1-2 FAA LICENSING PROCEDURES This procedure applies in the U.S.A. only. The Federal Aviation Administration (FAR) has a definite procedure for registering and Ticensing honebuiTt aircraft. There is nothing complicated about it, but they’ insist that you follow each step carefully. 1. Contact your Tocal FAA Engineering and Manufacturing District Office or FAR General Aviation District Office. Tell. them you are building 2 Q2 honebuilt.” Give then the fol- Towing inforaation: 1 3eView drawing of the Q2 + Aircraft serial number * Rireraft registration number, if available (see step #2) Approxinate date of starting construction + Engine-type FRA will then answer you, and tel7 you when ‘they want to inspect your airplane, where the approved test areas are, etc. 2. This step is optional, and applies only if you want to reserve a'specific registration umber (the nunber you will paint on the tasl). You can ask for all nusbers, munbers followed by a single letter, or numbers folloned by ‘two letters. They'are preceded by the letter (For example, 4770, NB490P, etc.). Be sure to give them Jour second and third’ choice, in case the nunber you want is already taken. Send $10 to reserve your special munber to: FAR Aircraft Registry Box 25082 Oklahona City, OK. 73125 Do not register your aircraft yet, since you don't need to pay registration fees, property ‘taxes, etc., until your airplane is "ready to fly. "If you do not desire a special nunber, the the FAA will assign you a random nunber. 3. hen you are ready for inspection* contact. your local FAA office. Be sure you have an airframe log book (available from EAA) so ‘that FAA can make an inspection entry To prepare for your final inspection, be sure you have: The *N" nurber painted on; the "Experinental” sign (2" high letters} on the canopy frame, the ID plate, and an airframe og book and’an engine 109 book. Before final inspection, fill out an application for registration (FAR form #A08050~1), a notarized affidavit that you built the airplane from parts that you bought yourself, and include’ $5 registration fee, along with copies of your sales agreenent and invoice signed by Quickie Aircraft Corporation. Send Sheba: things fp: FAA Registry Box 25082 Oklahoma City, OK 73125 After you have made a final inspection of your aircraft, run the engine, etc., but prior to ny toni tests or flights, contact your Tocs) FAA office and tell then you are ready to fly. They will have you F111 oUt, an application for airworthiness (form #8130-6), inspect your air- Blane, ané issue you an airworthiness certifi- cate and a list of operating limitations. ‘hen you have conpleted your initial test period, Contact FAA to get your operating limitations amended so you can Fly outside your test area. * Refer to education section - inspection is done fa radon areas (wings canard, and fuselage) after the glass 1s applied, but before the area is painted with any primer, etc., so that the glass structure can be inspected. The FAA ‘office has been supplied with the same inspect ‘on criteria that you are given in your Composite Materials Education Chapter.SCALE ! 1 Ts ||| =eBILL OF MATERIALS Tools There are certain tools which are necessary to complete the aircraft. Three Tists of tools are Provided here. The first 1s the absolute bare minimum required, sacrificing efficiencys the second isa recomended Tist for the best compromise of cost and work efficiency; the third is a list for the "CadiTlac* Of shops where ease of construction is more important, ‘than money. The non-conmon itens are stocked by Aircraft Spruce and Specialty. FIRST LIST - BASIC REQUIRED TOOLS Common household butcher knife Coping saw 1/4" drive socket set malt open-end yrenches + Sandpaper 50 sheets, 40-arit, 3M Production Paper D-wt. 50 Sheets, 80-grit, 3H Production Paper 20 sheets, 240-arit, 2M Wet or Dry Tri-M-ite Paper Acwi. Silicon Carbide Waterproof . 20 sheets, 320-grit, 3M Wet or Dry Tri-M-Ite Paper ewe! Silicon Carbide Waterproot. malt Weights - Approx. 150 Tbs in 5-16 Tb pieces <6 - 6" C-Clamps Square and half-round files +1" putty knife + Hacksaw Blade & Phillips screwdrivers Box of single-edge razor blades 24" carpenter's level Carpenter's square Felt marking pens 3-ft straightedge +12-ft decimal steel tape (Stanley #61-112) 1/4" desl] with set of fraction and nunber bits, #30, #32, #10, 1/4" and #12 bits Taps; 1/4-28, 10-32, 1/8 NPT (Pipe Tap) +Roll of grey duct tape Sabersaw Cheap holesaw set or Flycutter Pop rivet puller -Vonenade balance for rationing epoxy +Wall thermometer 50 to 100°F +6-Ft straightedge +$mall set of X-Acto knives -Drenel-type miniature high-speed hand grinder with saw and router bits SECOND LIST ~ RECOMMENDED TOOLS (In addition to those +6" to 9" dise-type hand sander *Set of 1/4", 1/2" and 1" chisels (wood) +1/2*-dia 100° counter sink (piloted) 6" machinist steel ruler sXeketo razor saw +3/8" variable-speed hand dil Hand broon/brush Bench-mounted belt sander Stanley surform plane Vacuum cleaner (shop type) Dovetail saw Epoxy Ratio Pump Plunb bob ‘THIRD LIST ~ FOR THE FIRST CLASS SHOP (In addition Eo those inthe first and second Tist rfl press: + 18-inch bandsaw “Vernier Caliper +90° drill adapter “Air compressor with blow nozzTé Orbital sander “Nicopress sleeve tool “Clecos = one dozen 1/8" “Hotwire Voltage Controt 15 USED ONLY OCCASIONAL +1 dozen 1/8" Clecos “Hotwire Voltage Contro! + 5/8" Spotface AND CAN BE BORROWED. ‘PACKING LISTS Upon receiving your 02 kit, you should immediately biatch the packing 1ist in each chinment against. the act ual contents of each box. Any descrepaneies should be reported imediately to Quickie Aircraft Corporation. ie will not be responsible for shortages that. go unreport- ed for longer than 30 days after receipt of the materials: Quickie Aircraft Corporation maintains a close Viaison with Q2 subcontractors to assure proper mater ials specification and quality control. Do not make substitutions for the materials provided. The materials Provided were selected, developed, tested, and ont imiz~ ed for ease of construction and structural integrity. If you insist on making non-approved substitutions for replacement and spoilage, we insist that you do not call your aircraft a QZ." Quickie Aircraft. Corporation will not provide assistance in the application of Substitute matertals or components. In addition to the materials provided in the kit, you will need to furnish a few itens that are readily available locally. We do this to save you some money. These items are 25 foTlows: Lurber for a workbench and Jigging “Nasonite, hardboard, plywood, etc. for Jigging templates, rigging tenplatés, and hot-wire templates uy 6" x 6" piece of aluminum screen door screen piece of 1/4" diameter wood dowell “Battery for electrical system “Finishing materials: Dupont. 70S dark gray laquer primer surfacer, Acrylic laquer paint in the color of your choice 1 piece shock cord, 2 unstretched length END OF CHAPTER PAGE 24COMPOSITE MATERIALS EDUCATION DON'T SKIP THIS SECTION. Every hour you spend fin this preparation section will save you Five when you really start building your aireraft INTRODUCTION In this section you won't build any part of your airplane. What you will do is learn how to butld your airplane the right way. The construction techniques may be radically different fron anything you've done before (including building boats, surf- boards, airplanes, and gocarts), and you should assure there is only one correct way to do it. We've discovered mary wrong ways of doing things and have written the plans to keep you from repeating our mistakes. We insist that you do things our way. If you have a better idea, suggest it to us; we'll test, and if it really is a better idea we'll publish details in the Quickie Newstetter This section will teach you all of the techniques required to build your airplane, show you what special tools you need, and how to\use then. The educational samples that you wit] build in this section are designed to give you experience and confidence in all of the techniques that you will use in the construction of your airplane. The steps in construction of each san~ ple are arranged in sequence (as are the steps in Construction oF the actual aireraft parts) and you Should follow the sequence without skipping any’ steps, You will learn the basic glass layup technique used throughout the aircraft, special comer treatments, foam shaping/cutting, and joining methods. A summary of these techniques is provided on yellow paper for you to tack up on your shop wall. You MaKe Sanding Blocks Thase are required in many areas during construct. ion and for finishing. You nay also use a "sof block", which is a block of the blue-uhite or orange styrofoam wrapped with sandpaper. Se Ot Sandpaper glued Ye each side. wits coutact cement Much elbow grease is saved if you replace the sandpaper often: ong Straightedge This Ys not absolutely required, but is quite handy when jigging ar checking the straightness of flying surfaces. It is merely a 6-ft or 8-Ft 1x3 or ixd piece of luiber that is hand-selected to be "eye- balt straight". You can get it one of two ways: (2) Order it from Aircraft Spruce & Speciality Co. , or Wicks Aircraft Supply - they plane them perfect. fron dry lumber. (2) Sart through the Tunber (dry fir or redwood) at your local Tunber yard until you find one that looks straight when you eyeball it from one end. Mark it and hang it on the wall so it doesn't end up as part of a shelf! Epoxy Balance Devices which autonatically ratio the correct arount of resin and hardener and dispense it with the pull of a lever are avaitable from Aircraft Spruce & Speciality Co., and Wicks Aircraft Supply, for approxi~ mately $150. Thase save time and epoxy. You can ratio the epoxy by building the following simple bat~ ance - don't. skip steps! Follow each’ step exactly every time you mix epoxy, 1, Place both empty cups as shown (vet the hardener cup). 2. Adjust ballasé weight to level mark. 3. FAIT resin cup with desived anount of resin - 1 to 6 07. 4, Adé hardener to hardener cup to balance scale fon level mark. 5. Pour the hardener into the resin cup and mfx. Pivots - metal tube bushings in wood. shops is excelent for’ the bushings EE. * These wing 0.032" Type 308, Stone, Steed Setetly Wire Sma/f Ale Loose Fit on 1s. The 1/8" dia brass tube avatiable at hobby. NUST BE FRICTION atop = — Patios result in a 43-part hardner to 100-part RATIO BALANCE FOR RESIN HARDENER 1. Place both enpty cups as shown (Wet. the hardener cup} Adjust batlast weight to Teve) mark, 111 resin cup with desired anount of resin - 1 to 6 02. 4. Add hardener to hardener cup to balance scale on level mark. 5. Pour the hardener into the resin cup and mix Hot Wire cutter You will need a hot wire cutter to carve at] the foam cares for the canard, vertical fin, and Refer to sketzh Tighten wire by torsting tube witty pliers 7 Var Control Be yoms a0 205" usall, “ ony type steel hie ss Diam Hoel Gye 3) CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGE $6 felt PAGE 3-1 ceThe variable voltage control can be obtained from Rireraft Spruce and Specialty or Wicks Aireraft Supply, or you can substitute ary controllable power supply to include the 14 to 20 volt range with at least 4 amp capability. fn alternative is to borrow two 12-V battery chargers or auto batteries and Tash up the following device. The "A" blocks represent efther a battery. or 2 12-V de battery charger with a 4 amp capability. 2's Lo"*2o" Lomecie — 16 Movbs; tnd eat, Safety wire Den} pooch, wood) ry Wore: Altigater Chip: move ts right cool wire, rave pp. feté Ae teat wire, The cutter shoulé only be used on the blue-white or orange styrofoan. A/hazardous gas is emitted if Jou try to CUF urethane. You can substitute .025 nicrome wire which can be run at a lower current (about. 2 anp) but nicrone wire is difficult to find, Adjust the current. to obtain a wire terperature which will allow the wire to cut the foam at a rate of one inch every four to six seconds when pulled with a Tight Toad (less then 4} pound). This can be checked with a small scrap of foam. If tenperature is correct, the foam will have smooth hairy surface. A cratered surface means too uch heat. If the wire is too cold, the cutter will have to be forced hard, causing the wire to lag. Lag should not exceed } inch over the top and bottom of the wing and not over 1/8 inch around the leading edge. If the wire 1s too hot, it will burn away too touch foam, making the part tod snail and will result in ruts in the foam if the wire 1s inadvertently stopped curing cutting. The wire should be tightened until the wire starts to yield. Check this by tighten ing the wire while plunking it, listening to the sound. The pitch will increase unt!l the wire yields. Jig Table You will need a table to jig and build the wings, and canard. Jt should be at least 2 ft by 10 ft. Any larger’ than 4 ft. by 12 ft. will just get in’ the way, Use a Tittle care in making a flat, untwisted Surface. The following is a sketch of the one we made and it works fine. The box design makes it stiff in torsion. "Set it up with the top 35 to 33 inches, above the floor. Don't get carried away with surface fintsh, since you are going to be gluing blacks to 1t with Bondo and chisel ing then off several. tines. When building the wing and canard, which are nearly 17 ft long, one can extend the jig table with Vunber (2x4"s) and Bondo (see section on Bondo) to provide a platform for the top jigging tenplates We TABLE PAGE 3-2 MATERIALS ‘The matertals, processes, and in the construction of your Q2 are recent. to hone- butlding. This section fs devoted to familiarizing you with the language, materials, and techniques used in these plans. This infornation is basic to the construction of your airplane. You should study this section and be sure that you Understand alt of tt before continuing. ‘There are five basic materials that you wit! be working with: Fiberglass cloth, epoxy, microspheres, Flox, and foam. Each material, its properties, and uses, will be discussed in detail. Basie processes using these materials will also be discussed. Fiberglass Cloth ‘The most basic structural material in your Q2 fs glass cloth. Glass cloth is available commercially in hundreds of different weights, weaves, strengths, and working properties. The use of glass in aircraft structures, particularly structural Sendwich composites, is a recent developrent. Very few of the comercially available glass cloth types are compatible with aircraft requirenents for nigh strength and light weight. Even fewer are suitable for the handlayup techniques used in the 02, The glass cloth used in the 2 has een specifically selected for the optimum conbination of workabitity, strength, and weight. ‘The glass cloth in your'Q2 carries primary loads, and its correct application is of vital ‘importance Even though doing your glass work correctly is inpart- ant, this doesn't mean that it is difficult, Two types of glass cloth are used, 2 bi-directional cloth (5277810), and a unidirectional cloth (517700). (Use the fuI1 part number for ordering your cloth, but for simplicity the plans will use only BID or UNI designations). BID cloth has halt of the Fibers woven parallel to’ the selvage edge of the cloth terminology used and the other half at right angles to the selvage, Giving the cloth the sane strength in both directions. ‘he selvage is the woven edge of a bolt of fabric as shown in the accompanying sketch. Snail Cass Fibers y? Selease Edge. Sohage Edge / Major Files 7 nee) f t sees UNI (4) SID (+) (theo Eaze) Ware FEbeeS kia PALE TO Sacvact Loces Mure Freees fin Paeaec€e 79 F ARPITUOICULAR TO Seaver CONTINUED ON NEXT PRG:UNI cloth has 95% of the glass volune woven parallel ‘to the selvage giving exceptional strength in that direction and very little at right angles to it. BID is generally used as pieces which are cut at fa 45edegree angle to the selvage and laid into contours With very little effort. BID is often applied at 45 degree orientation to obtain a desired torsional or Sheay stiffness. UNT 1s used in areas where the pri- ary Toads are in one direction, and maximum efficiency is required, such as the wing skins and spar caps. ‘Multiple layers of glass cloth are laminated tom gether to form the aircraft structure, Each layer of Cloth is called a ply and this term will be used throughout the plans. Marking and cutting the plies of glass cloth is a Jab that you will repeat often in the construction of your Q2. Glass cloth should be marked, cut, and stored ina clean area with clean hands and clean tools. Glass contaminated with dirt, grease, or epoxy should be discarded. A clean, smooth surface 1s needed for marking and cutting. the area used for storing and cutting glass cloth should be separated fron the air- Graft assembly area because otherwise it will bo exposed to foan dust, epoxy, and other things which an contaninate the cloth. You will need a good sharp pair of scissors, a felt-tipped marker, a fairly Straight board, and a tape measure for'marking and cutting. The Small anount of ink fron marking and num- bering plies has no detrimental effects on the glass cloth. in each step the size, type, and fiber orientation of each ply 4s given. Take the fist to your glass cut ting table, roll out a Tength of the appropréate cloth, Straighten’ the selvage, mark all of the plies, and cut then. Wow is @ good time to stop reading Tong enough to go and cut a square ply of BID and see how easy it is ‘fo change its shape by pulling and pushing on the edges as shown in the sketches. Cut @ square with the Fibers Fanning at 45° and pull on the edges to shape the piece. og, OL Qe THES EE Lis Jue SHAPE It helps $f you wake fairly straight cuts, but don't worry if your cut is within # inch of your mark. Ag you cut BID, it may change shape, just as the square ply that you are experimenting with’ does when you pull fon one edge. Plies that distort when cut are easily put back inéo shape by pulling onan edge. Rolling or folding cut plies wit! help keep then clean and make it easier to maintain their shape. If several plies are called for, it may help to nunber then before cutting. Save your élean scraps and make an effort to usé them for smaller plies. If the cloth is spotted with epoxy, throw it away. eoncehangeutéing Yona strips or large places of 5 legree BID, always roll or fold it 30 it keeps its shape when handTed. When it's applied, it can be set fn one end of the part and rolled onto it. If you pick lp each end, it will distort and not fit the part properly. ‘The fiber orientation called for in each lanination is important and shouldn't be ignored. UNI is charac~ terized by the major fiber bundies running parallel to the selvage and being much larger than the small cross Fibers which run at right angles to thé selvage. In BID the cross fibers are the sane size as those running parallel to the selvage, giving BID an even “checker Board" appearance. BI0'1s connonty used for plies cut at 45° to the selvage. Your tailor would cat] this a bias" cut. The 45" cut makes it easy to work wrinkles out of a ply locally, without having to chase it to the far edge. The 45° cut also makes it possible to make a ply slightly longer than originally cut by pulling on the ends, or wider by pulling the sides. The 45° orientation isn't critical; you don't néed to measure it, Your eyeball of a rough diagonal (45° + 10°) is adequate when efther cuteing or Taying up the cloth. PAGE 3-3 epoxy In recent years the term "epoxy" has becone a household word.” Unfortunately, "epoxy" is.8 general term for a vast nunber of specialized resin/hardener systens, the sane as "aluninun" is a general term for a whole fanily of specialized metal alloys, dust as the "aluninun” pots’ and pans in your kitchen, the "epoxy" in your Q2 is vastly different fron the hardware store variety, Epoxy is the adhesive matrix that keeps the plies of load-carrying glass cloth together. Epoxy alone 1s, weak and heavy. It is inportant to use {t properly so that the full benefits of its adhesive capabiTity are obtained without unnecessary weight. A large portion of your education in conposite structural work will be spent learning how to get the full strength of an epoxy/glass mixture with the wininun weight. This section will discuss the terainalogy and techniques for working with epoxy resin and its hardener. An "epoxy system" is made up of a resin and a hardener tailored to produce a variety of physical and working properties. The mixing of resin with its hard ener causes a chenical reaction called curing, which shanges the two Tiquids into a solid. Different epoxy systens produce a wide variety of solids ranging from extremely hard to very flexible. Epoxy systens also, vary greatly in their working properties, sone are very thick, slow pouring liquids and others are Tike water. Some epoxy systems allow hours of working time and others harden almost. as fast as they are mixed. A Single type of resin is sometines used with a variety of hardeners to obtain a number of different characteristics. In short, there 1s no universal epoxy system; each has its onn specific purpose and while it may be the best for one application, it could be the worst possible in another use. Thé epoxy systens used in the construction of your Q2 are tailored for a combination of workability and strength, as well as to protect the foan core from heat danage and solvent attack. These systens are very low in toxicity to minimize epoxy rash. The epoxies are not similar to the common types normally marketed for fiberglass laninating. Two different systems are used in the Q2: a normal curing system, anda Seminute system. The very fast curing (5-min.) system 1s used much Vike clecos are used in sheet metal construction (or clanps in woodwork); for temporary positioning. Five- minute is also used’ in sone areas where high strength is not required, but where a fast cure will aid assenbly. Safe-t-Pox will cure to a firm structure at room temperature within one day. Complete cure takes Medays, ‘The Q2 epoxy systens are called Safe-T-Pox and 5-MIN. ¥ em» B= ey a Ea, HE a + — er ie a ‘Any foam bonding where parts are smal and the fast cure allows the next step to be done soon. Also used as a temporary joint for jigging CONTINVED ON NEXT PAGEThe working and strength characteristics of an ‘epoxy systen are dependent on the resin, the hardener, ‘and.on the anount of each in a given mixture. Epoxy systens are engineered for a specific ratio of resin and hardener. It is quite important that the proper mixture be obtained. An accurate balance or ratio ump must be used to accomplish this. A drawing of fn inexpensive ratio balance is included in these plans The mix ratio accuracy 1s particularly ingortant with Safe-T-Pox. The S-Min. can be adequately rationed by wnerely pouring a blob of part A in a cup and adding a Bob of part B that looks the sane voluse before mix: ing, Never eyeball estinate Safe-T-Pox, always carefully use the balance or purp. Epoxy resin and hardener are mixed in smal] batches, usuatly 6 ounces or Tess, even in the largest Tayup.. The reason for small batches is that, in large batches, as the hardening reaction progresses, heat is generated which speeds the reaction, which causes even more heat, which ends up ina fast reaction called an exotherm. An exotherm will cause the cup of epoxy ‘to get hot and begin to thicken rapidly. If this occurs, throw it away and mix a new batch. The sma1l volume batch avoids the exothern. for a large layup, you will mix many small batches rather than a few large ones. With this method you can spend many hours on a Varge layup using epoxy that has a working Tife of only a few minutes. Tf the epoxy 1s spread thin as in a layup its curing heat will quickly dissipate and it Will remain orly.a few degrees above roon tenperature. However, in a thick buildup or cup, the low surface area to'mass ratio will cause the epoxy to retain its heat, Increasing its temperature. This results in a faster cure causing more heat. This unstable reaction is calted an exotherm. Exotherm temperatures can easily exceed the maxinur allowable for foam (200°F) ‘and damage the foar-to-glass bond. Unwaxed paper cups are used for mixing and ratio- jing resin and hardener. Conven‘ent 8-02 cups for resin are provided. The hardener cups are the 3-oz unvaxed bathroom paper cups. Don't use waxed cups; the wax will contaminate your epoxy. If you are using the honebuilt balance, follow this procedure, Place the resin (8 oz) cup’on the right cradle. The resin cup can be either a new clean cup, fone with a Tittle uncured epoxy left. in the bottom, or a clean cup froa a previous layup with hard epoxy in the bottom (snooth, not Tunpy). Now, take a clean 3-02 hardener cup ~ pour a splash of hardener into it then scrape the hardener back into the container. This gives the hardener @ wet surface, so its remaining hardener will not be counted in the balancing. Now, place the wet hardener cup on the scale, check that it Swings freely and balance it perfectly by moving the smal] weight. “Epoxy is then poured into the 8 oz cup {6 oz ar less). Hardener is then poured into the 3 oz Cup at the other end of the balance until the am is Tevel. ‘hen ready to mix, pour the hardener into the rasin cup and mix completely. If you have the ratio ump, you Simply put one cue under the spout, pump out. the amount that you want, and mix. Mixing is done by stirring with a stick, being careful not to spil] any. If you spill part of an unmixed cup, the ratio of resin and hardener nay be Jnaccurate and it shouldn't be used. Mix each cup for at least two minutes. You should spend 80% of your imfxtag time stirring. the cup and 20% scraping the sides to assure complete mixing. 09 not ax with a brush. The bristles can soak up the hardener, changing the ratio. Use a tongue depressor or wood stick “The working tenperature has a substantial effect fon the pot life and cure time. Very hot conditions will cause the cure to speed up. -In cold working Conditions the cure will be delayed and if it is cold enough, epoxy may not cure at all. Working tenperatures must be between 70° 2nd 90°F. A range of 75 to 80°F is best. Be sure to get a wall thernoneter (approx. $1.50 at any general store) to check the tenperature Of your work area. At 75°F, 5-Win must be used within Four minutes, and Safe-T-Pox must be used within 20 minutes. Cold epoxy results in increased tine required to do a Tayup, since it takes longer to "wet" and to ‘squeegee the cloth. A layup at 65° may take almost twice the tine as at 75°F. On most layups (except for Joining foam cores) its best to have 75 to 80°F room Yenperature and 80 to SO°F epoxy. Resin and hardener can be kept warmer than room temperature by Keeping it ina cabinet with a smal? Tight bulb on. DO NOT store your resin or hardener on a cold floor if you plan to Use it within the mext several hours. If you Tet your PAGE 3-4 shop get cold between working periods, keep sone resin and hardener in the warmest place of your house for use fn the next layup. ‘Save your mixing cups, as they can be used as a quality check of your epoxy. After @ day or two take a sharp knife point or scribe and scratch the surface ‘of epoxy in the cured cup. If the epoxy cured properly, the scribe wil] make 2 white scratch mark. If the ‘epoxy hasn't cured, the scribe will make a dul) ridge, indicating a soft surface. If this occurs, the epoxy, has not cured, either due to inadequate tine or tenp~ erature, or bad mixing, oF bad epoxy. MICROSPHERES ficrospheres are a very light filler or thickening material used in a mixture with epoxy. Micro, as the mixture is called, is used to Fill voids and fon areas, to glue foam Stocks together, and as a bond between foams and glass skins. The glass bubble-type suppl ied is lighter than most conmon types. Microbatioons must be kept dry. If moisture is present it will make then Tumpy. Bake them at 250°F; then sift with a Flour sifter to remove lumps. Wicro is used in three consistencies: a "slurry" which is a one-to-one by volupe mix of epoxy and microspheres, "wet. micro" whtch 1s about two-to-four parts microspheres by volume to one part epoxy, and “dry microM which 15 2 mix of epoxy’ and enough microspheres to obtain a paste which will not. seg or run (about five parts-to-one by vollne).""In all three, miero- spheres are added to completely nixed epoxy. You do not have fa accurately whe the microspheres: Just dump them in until the desired consistancy 1s obtained. Micro slurry 1s used to paint over foans before glass cloth {s applied over then. Slurry is alnost the sane viscosity as,the pure epoxy and 1s runny enough to apply with a brish. ‘However, the easiest way to apply sturry is to pour it onto the surface and spread it out evenly using a squeegee. When skinning urethane foan use 2 ful thick coat of slurry Inadequate slurry on urethane canresut ina poor skin bond, “Wet micro 1s used to join foam blacks, and, white it is mich thicker then slurry, 1E 1s still thin fenough to sag and run (like thick honey). Ory micro ‘is used to Fill low spots and voids and is mixed so that it is a dry paste that won't sag at all. In al] three micro: types, you don't measure, just add micro- speres unt? the destred consistancy 1s obtained. Use imicro only as specifically shown = never use micro between glass layers ‘Always use the following method to Join Foam blocks. This is extrenely important. 1.” Check that the foam blocks fit closely together. If there are voids over 1/16 inch, sand to fit, or 111 the void with a stiver of foan. 2, Paint 2 light coat of mero slurry on both surfaces. If Joining foam to fiberglass, paint ure mixed epoxy (no microspheres) an the Fiberglass surface and micro slurry on the Foam surface. 3. Refer to the sketch and trowel wet or dry micro {n the center of the Joint. Thus when Joined the micro 15 pushed outward expelling. (rather than trapping) air. If the fit is excellent use ary micro, 4, Push the two pieces together, wiggling each to move the micro toward the surfaces. "Be sure the micro is no thicker than'0.1 inch at any place, to avoid exotherm. Wipe off any excess. Bo not be concerned if the micro does not completely reach the surface. that votd can be filled immediately before’ skinning the part. #2 #3 wd _ PoC Pancr Skucey Trove whewo Passe Tae: Paces on aru Feces CORY) PeeHeRFLOX Flox is a mixture of cotton fiber (flocked cotton) and epoxy. The mixture is used in structural joints and in areas where a very hard, durable buildup is re~ quired. Flox is mixed puch the same as dry micro, but only about two parts flock to one part epoxy 1s required, Mix_in Just enough flox to make the mixture Stand up. If "wet flox" is called out, mix it so it wilT sag’ or run. lihen using fox to bond a metal part be sure to sand the metal dull with 220-geit sandpaper and paint pure mixed epoxy (no flox) on the metal part. BONO. ‘Throughout these plans the term "Bondo" is used as a general term for autorctive, polyester body filler. Bondo ts used for holding Jig blocks in place and other ‘temporary fastening Jobs. We use it because it hardens ina very short time and can be chipped or sanded off Without danaging the Fiberglass. Bondo is usually a ull gray color until a colored hardener is mixed with §t, The color of the mixture is used to judge how fast {twill set. The more hardener you add, the brighter the color of the mixture gets, and the faster it hardens. This simle guide works up to a point Where so much hardener is added that the mixture never hardens. Follow the general directions on the Bondo can for fast setting Bondo. ujxing 4s done on a scrap piece of cardboard or plywood (or almost anything), using a hard squeegee or putty knife. A blob of Bondo 4s scooped out of the can and dropped on the mixing board. A smal] amount of hardener is squeezed out onto the biob and then you mix to an even color. You will nix the blob for about one minute. You wiil then have ‘to to three minutes to apply ft before it hardens. Be sure to clean the board and putty knife oft before the Sondo is completely hard. MEK will clean Bondo off your putty knife and squeegee if it isn't completely hardened. pee sty PEEL FEE ply 48 4 layer of 2,7or dacron fabric witch fs 1aidup over riperglass layup mnfie the fiber= Bass ie Set wets end fe ater pened by Tit ting an Sige and Speettoge'te off” the wose convientent fora t'aacron to use ts "surface tapest, sormatiy Used tn Severing fabrie atrerafec these ave evoviane in ross vga wilt need at Teatt one’ rolls 2 wae” Peel’ ply. used for two purposes: (a) "poet ply any area thie wil] later be structur- aity laches to another Hoerslass layup nee the decron {5 peciee off, the surface ts ready for enother Teyupe without sandinge 17 You to nat Use peel Bly> you wilt have 80 sand he surface comictely alt (no shiny spots) This sanding fe hardy tfehy work and reins the Herenjen ofthe outer ply of Fibergass. Hote that to peel ply the trailing edge overlap area, "the peel pts the First piy mage fo the foan tore ay’ e str) of Seerencdee Sethe ertep notch nd Gecure Te'with tacks or staples so"it doesn’t nove ven you Tayup the skis, (2) The second use for peel ply is to transition the arae'ahere the bop aby of a lan terete ttes'on the fiberglass Surfaces Refer tovthe scjacene sketches. “if the top ply edge 1a Tete up bare te results te a rough edge thal ahcctaninete if'e iittle dey. Sanding the Poush edge {e'harde ely work and usually resutte’ tn danse BerteSdcent Surfeces “tf the edge is overietd S108 « Lapp Pel Py sath erie goeey a6 FI osere aph gts feove end ch fase ond oy VLEADING EDCE PAGE 3-5, of dacron during the layup (Tay on the dacron and wet. out by stippling or squeegeeing) ft will make tthe edge lay down flat and will form a wedge of epoxy to snoothly transition the edge. After cure, peel off the dacron. The result 1s a beautifully transttioned sooth edge with no delamination tendency. Use this, method in all places where a cloth edge terminates on tthe surface. Bonp ¢ Celarninarise thal y glietost be Saritec? ——Z = pS WO_PEEL PLY Lael Py Sreoth Epon Removed anata a WITH PEEL Ply FOAM, Three different types of rigid, closedcel] Foam are used. A Tow density (nominally’2 16/ft3) blue- White or orange, large-cell styrofoam is used as the foam core of thé wing, canard, vertical stabilizer, and control surfaces.” The blue-white or orange foam 1s exceptional for smooth hot wire cutting of airfoil shapes. The large cell type used provides better protection fron delamination than the nore conponly used insulation-grade styrofoans Low density 2 18/Ft3 green or Tight tan urethane foam is used because it is easy to carve and contour, and is completely fuel proof. The urethane used is, Urethane 210 or equivalent. ‘The white styrene nodified urethane foam is used in medium’ density (4-6 1b/ft3) where higher conpress- fon strength {s required. Do not substitute Foans for those supplied by Quickie Aircraft Corporation. For example, the 2 Dlue-wnite or orange styrofoam has great glass surface peel strength than the standard blue styrofoam sold by some distributors. Also, we considered using the "fire resistant" BROWN urethane instead of the green 2 1b urethane, but found its physical properties, fatigue Life, and fuet compatibility to be much Tower than the Urethane supplied to Q2 builders. Do not confuse styrofoam with white expanded polystyrene. Expanded polystyrene is a molded, white, low density, soft foam, which has the appearance of many spheres pressed together... This is the type used in the average picnic cooler. It disappears tnmediatley in the presence of most solvents, including fuel, and its compression and modulus 13 too Tow, [AN] three types of foans, urethane, styrene mo: ed urethane, and polystyrenes are manufactured in a wide variety of flexibilities, densities and cell sizes. Getting the wrong material for your airplane can result ‘in more work and/or degraded structural. integrity. Since sunlight can danage foam, avoid exposure of foam to the sunlight by Keeping it covered END OF SECTIONCONSTRUCTION TECHNIQUES HOT MIRE CUTTING The airfoiT-shaped surfaces of your Q2 are formed by hot wire cutting the orange or blue-white styrofoam of 2 Tb/Ft3 density. The hot wire process given air~ foils that are true to contour, tapered, proerly twisted, and swept with a mininun of effort and the Simplest of tools, “The, detalls for making your hot ire saw were shown earlier The hot wire saw is a plece of stainless steel safety wire, stretched tight between two pieces of ‘tubing. The wire gets hot when an electricial current passes through it and this thin, hot wire burns through ‘the foam. By making smooth steady passes, the hot wire gives a smooth, even surface, The foan offers Vitele resistance £6 the hot wire's passage. To gat 2 smooth accurate cut, a tenplate is required. Tenp- Tates are made from thin plywood, sheet metal, nasontte or formea. A vartable voTeage control is used to supply the electrical current that heats the ‘The blue-white or orange foam used in your flying surfaces was selected for a conbination of reasons and hot wire cutting ability was one of then. Other types of foans are readily hot wire cut, but some (white expanded polystyrene) have poor physical pro erties and others (urethane) give off potsonaus gases When hot wire cut. Use only the recomended materials! Hot wire templates can be made from 1/16 to 1/4 finch plywood, formica, or masonite or .032 to .068 sheet metal.” It is important to have Snooth edges on the templates. A rough edge may cause the wire to hang up and burn into the foan excessively. Tenplates are ‘required on both ends of the foam being cut. The size, shape, and orientation of the txo tenplates is varied to taper, and twist the foam core as required. The lanform’(span and sweep) is set by squaring up the ‘oan STack before the teaplates are Used. in general, ‘the trailing edge of the wing is the referen “Fill-size template drawings are provided in the plang. To make your tenplates, just glue the template Grawings to a piece of plywood or sheet metal and trim to the contours shown. There are a nunber of markings fon each template which aid in the alignment and cutting of the foam care. Each template has a waterline (W.L.) marked on it which is used to align the twist of the foam core. Each tenplate's waterline is Teveled using a carpenter’ bubble level. This assures that the relative twist at each template is correct. The tenplate is then nailed 20 the foam block to obtain the correct planform. Each tenplate has numbered marks running fron the trailing edge around the leading edge and back to. the trailing edge. These are called "talking numbers. linen the foan cores are cut into their airfotl shape, the talking nunbers are used to assure that each end of the hot wire 1s co-ordinated to obtain the correct, tapered airfoil. The person calling the nunbers should be at the largest template. A typical cut would sound Vike this: "Resting on the tab 1/4" from the foan, moving forward, entering foam now - one, half, tho. half, . . 2, 34, half, 35, half, 36, coming out of ‘the foan’and’pausing on the tab, wire's out." AS the cut is made, the person on the Small rib follows. the nunbers, passing over then as he hears then called out. Pause marks are indicated in places where it is necessary to pause for a couple of seconds and let the hot wire's center lag catch up with the ends. PAGE 3-6 Preparing a foan block for an airfoil cut is begun by trimming the rectangular foan block to the basic dimensions for the correct plantorm. These "trim cuts are made using two straightedjed trim templates. The templates are held against the foam by nails through the template into the foam. - Enough nails should be used to hold the template firm so. that it Won't move when the hot wire is held against it. Note the diagonal cut being made by correctly position ing the vertical tenplates and passing the hotwire downward along then. Each template must have holes for nails to hold plates to the foam: four penny nails are good for this use. The holes in the templates should be close Fit for the nails. Be careful not to angle the nails so that the hot wire can catch on then! Some rib templates are used several tines, for both. inboard and outboard, requiring you to transfer the talking ‘numbers, pause marks, trim line, and waterline to the opposite side of the template. Support the foam block wells don past the edge of the jigging table. overhang the block SONTINUED ON NeXT PAGEThe use of the hot wire saw is a simple thing if ‘your equipment is set up properly. Proper wire tens~ ‘ion and wire tenperature should be maintained for good cutting. The wire tension should be tightened after the wire is hot by twisting one tube with a pair Of pliers. The wire should be as tight as possible. The wire should be hot enough to cut one inch of foam in four to six seconds without having to force the wire. Awire that 1s too hot will burn the foam avay excessively. To cool an. over-heated wire, simply turn your voltage control to @ Tower voltage setting If you use a battery charger, you wilT have to add length to the wire. To warmup a cool wire, just increase the voltage setting or, with the charger, shorten the wire. “Although the foan offers only mild resistance to the hot wire, a Tong cut will cause the middle of your wire to lag'dehind the ends. Wire Tag can cause problens in tight curves like the Teading edge of an airfoil. To reduce lag there, the cutting Speed is reduced to about one inch in 8 to 10 seconds. The airfoil templates have notations in the areas where reduced speed cutting fs necessary and pause marks where it is necessary to allow the lag to catch up completely. ‘The most’ conron hot wire error is wire Tag which causes a bow in the leading edge. The following method solves this problen and thus we recommend you use it for cutting the canard and wing. Use the tabs on the ‘templates at the waterline at the Teading edge by cutting the core in two passes: one fron the Teading edge up aver the top to the trailing edge, the other fron ‘the Teading edge (under the tab) down under to bottom to the trailing edge. The thin "flash" of foan left on the leading edge due to the thickness of the tab {is easily renoved with your butcher knife. The result is a perfectly straight Teading edge. Care mist be taken to assure that, both ends simultaneously approach the téaplate at, the Teading edge. Use the following ‘vocal commands "wire is moving’ tovard the tab, now resting on the tab 1/2 inch fron the tenplate’ (confirm both ends in that position), moving toward teaplate 1/4 inch away, 1/8" away, on the tenplate, moving up (tatking number), ¥ (talking number). . 2". When approaching the trailing edge overlap notch (see sketch) Slow down and pause 3 seconds in the notch to assure a full, sharp, accurate surface for the skin overlap. Even rine Fee brave Beet SE Hove oce oF aeoek, ‘The hot wire should be guided around the templates with Tight pressures. Pushing too hard against. the template may move them or flex the foam block which results in an under cut foam core. The correct set-up is just as important as using the correct tools and materials. Foam 1s a fairly Flexible material and an improper set-up can cause deflection. The foam block should be well supported at each end, so that it doesn't sag and doesn't move around while being cut. You need clearance for the hot wire cutter to pass by the table and the weights used to hold the Foan steady. Foan 15 manufactured in sizes that are often too smal] to get @ conplete core from a single block, It is necessary to use tio foam blocks to get the size required for the wing cores. These blocks:have to be joined using an epoxy/microsphare mixture. The hot. wire won't cut through the micro Joint, so ail of the hot wire cutting is done with the blocks terporaril joined. fails or blobs of Semin epoxy are used far enporary foam joints, but the hot wire won't cut through these. "Thus, they have to be placed carefully so that the wire doesn't have to pass through then. Don't be overly concerned if you don't make perfect foam cuts: ridges on the foan core fron tnadvert- ently Tifting the hot wire off the templates are easily faired in with 2 sanding block. A less-than-parfect, leading edge can be blended in by sanding after the foam core 4s assenbled. Gouges in the foam can be snoathed and filled with dry micro to contour after applying the glass skins. The foan is too expensive to throw away because of @ minor gouge. A finished foam core may warp oUt of shape after it is renoved from the original rectangular block. This is due to internal stresses. in the foam from the mnanufacturing process, and is no cause for concern. A warped core is'simly weighted into the jig blocks and shiamed straight prior to glassing. Once the skin has been installed, the foam is hela firmly in position by the sandwich’ structure. URETHANE FOAM SHAPING ‘Ohe of the real ‘treats in the construction wil] be shaping and contouring urethane Foam. Urethane is, a delightful material. that shapes with ease using only Simple tools. A butcher knife, old wire brush, send- paper, and scraps of the foam itself ave the basic Urethane working tools. & vacuum cleaner is convenient, to have handy since working urethane produces a large quantity of foan dust. The knife is used to rough cut the foam to size. The knife needs to be kept reasonably sharp; a. sander or file is an adequate knife sharpener since it's. a frequent task and a razor edge isn't necessary. Coarse grit sandpaper (36 grit) glued to a board is used for rough shaping. Inside contours or “dishing” is done by using a ragged old wire brush to rough out the buTk of the foam and following up with a scrap foan piece to smooth the surface. The foam scrap conforms to’ the shape oF the surface resulting in a very smooth contour. PAGE 3-7 Outside contours are roughed out with a sanding block and finished using a foan scrap. Ory micro and Flox are used to fi11 voids and pot fasteners in a number of places. AI] foam shaping should be fintshed before any micro filling is done, because the fiTler 4s much harder than the foam and’ this makes smooth contouring very difficult. Your best carving tenplate is your eyeballs an occasional check on the depth of @ contour is about. the only measurenent necessary. Keep your shop swapt reasonably wall. The foam dust can conteminate your glass cloth and your lungs Use a dust respirator mask white carving u 7 Try not to aggravate. the better Ralf by Teaving 6 green foam dust trail into the house,GLASS LAYUP fe Tass Tayup techniques used in your G2 have been specifically developed to minimize the difficulty ‘that glass workers have traditionally endured. The Tayups that you witl do will be on a flat horizontal surface without the molds, vacuum bags, and other Special equipment that are coemon in giass work. The Yayups that you do will al] cure at. room temperature; no ovens or Special heating is required. If you have suffered through a project that requires you to build more molds and tools than airplane components, then you ave in for a veal treat. The techniques that you will use are quick but they stil] need to be done correctly. 90% of the work that you will do 1s covered in the next few paragraphs so nake sure that you read and understand this section very well. Tf you learn these basics, your airplane WITT be easy. Tf you skip over this information, you will probably end up frustrated. STEP 1: PERSONAL PREPARATION Before you Get started with a layup, plan ahead. Some major layups take several hours and’before getting your hands in the epoxy, it's a good idea to make a pit stop at the restroom. Dovnot start a large layup if tired; get sone rest and do it when fresh. It's best to have three people for any large layup; two Taminators and one person to mix epoxy. Be sure that the shop 1s clean before you start. Take the recomended health precautions (discussed later in detail) using gloves or barrier skin cream Get your grubby, old clothes on or at least a shop apron. Nake sure that your tools are clean from the last layup and ready to use. Your working area should be between 20°F and 90°. Best results are obtained at 75 to 80°F. Below 70°F the epoxy is thicker making it more difficult to wet the cloth. Above 50°F, the possibility of an exotherm is creater. STEP 2: CUT FIBERGLASS CLOTH ©The Fine points oF glass cutting have been cover~ ed earlier. Renenber that there isn't any requirement to cut accurate dimensions. Cloth dimensions are given well oversize. You scissor trim then as you $0, while laying the cloth up. It is @ good idea to’ keep ‘wo pair of scissors: one clean and in the glass stor- fage area, and one in the shop that gets epoxy on it. After cutting, roll or fold the material; keep it clean. and handy for the Tayup. STEP 3: PREPARE SURFACE The only difference between layups over different materials is in surface preparation. The layup over foam will be covered here since you will be doing nore of it, and other surface preparations will be covered separately. The foam surface is prepared by leveling uneven ‘areas with a sanding block and brushing or blowing ‘any dust off the surface. Use compressed air or vac uum to remove dust. Now is the tine to accurately check that the foam core is the correct size, shape and contour. Refer to the section views of the part - be sure your core Tooks exactly Tike that on the section view. Lay a 42 inch straightedge spanwise on all critical areas of the flying surfaces and be sure you don't Rave any or low places or jogales. Measure any areas that involve Fiberglass bulTdups to check for correct depth. Build up 1s 0.009 inch per ply for UNI and 0.013" inch per ply for BID, STEP 4: MDX EPOXY ~~ Nix epoxy when you need it, not before. Micro, ary micro, and flox may be required at various stages of the layup. Mixing. and composition details were covered earlier. Apply a coat of micro slurry to the foam surface before the first glass ply is laid over it. The slurry can be poured on the foam and spread thin with a squeegee. FiIT any dings or gouges in the foam core with dry micro prior to applying the slurry. STEP 5: LAY OW THE CLOTH, Lay on thé cToth in the specified orientation. Pull the edges to straighten the cloth out and to renove wrinkles. Maximum strength and stiffness 1s obtained if the fibers are not wavy or wrinkled. If the cloth is to be applied around and/or into a” sharp corer, you will find. the job easier to do if the fiber orientation is at 45° to the corner. Don't get depressed if the layup looks Tike a hopeless mess at this point, Press on with patience and things iN? work gut" Fines “fe renove wrinkios, study the eirect= Ten of itera, raft the Fbort ihe oyter-ege of the etoth and’ putt on the outsie-edge, Pushing ¢ wrinkle off the pare Is incorrect, Once the partis cof wrinktest use a squeegee. and make Tiohe passes Fon the" canter ovtnards to oth the cloth. STEP 6: WET OUT THE CLOTH Do"not use micro between plies of cloth. Wet out ‘the cloth by pouring on a thin coat of epoxy. This may not be necessary if there is enough epoxy under ‘the cToth to be brought to the surface. This 1s done by “squeegeeing", which involves drawing the. squeegee over the cloth. “This brings excess epoxy up from be- Yow to wet out the cloth, resulting in a weight savings as compared to adding mare epoxy on top. _RENEMBER, epoxy adds no strength beyond what is needed to wet out the white color of the cloth and fill air voids; any further addition of epoxy is only dead weight. Uihere multiple plies are required, the first plies may be laid up wet and the excess resin brought up by squeegeeing to help wet out the middle plies. To do ‘this, pour epoxy onto the part and move it. around the surface with a squeegee. Your work will go mich faster if you make the layup too wet, then remove excess epoxy with many light passes with the squeecee. Do hot squeegee too hard, as this can starve the surface Of micro and intraduce air. Continue to inspect for air (tiny white flecks or bubbles) and stipple (a Vertical stabbing motion with a paint brush) or squee~ gee in more epoxy to renove the air. A handy squeegee an be cut from the flexible plastic found on a coffee can Tid. You may also find a paint roller handy for spreading around the epoxy. The final plies are anbitiously stippled and additional epoxy is applied sparingly. When in doubt ~ squeegee it out. As you wet aut each ply, scissor trim to within 1/2" of any overhang (trailing edge, etc.) This 3” will be knife trinned after the layup cures. If an overhanging ply isn't trimmed, it lifts the edge up and makes @ bubble. After scissor trimming, restiople the edges to be sure there are'no voids.” et the cloth beyond the fim Tine at least 1/4" to'allow easy knife trimming ater. Busse Alene Looe Geass Scissor Temmen foce Lars far CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGESTEP 7: SQUEEGEEING ‘Squeegee out excess epoxy. This involves drawing a plastic or rubber squeegee over the layup as shown. Plastic squeegees (scrapers) are available at any paint store and included with the kit. If excess Ppoxy exists, it will be pushed off the edge of the Piece. Renenber, excess epoxy 1s much better on the Floor than on the airplane s possible to squeegee too hard and make the Tayup too ary. If this occurs, the surface will appear white, indicating the presence of air. If this occurs, wet the cloth by painting on 2 little epoxy and stipsling it down into the layup. The best quality layup is obtained if each layer of a multilayer layup #5 squeegeed. The excess epoxy which is pushed off the edge can be recovered and returned into the cup. This is easily done by catching the epoxy on the squeegee and scraping i on the side of the cup, The finished Tayup should appear snoath and green so that the weave of the cloth is clearly visible, but not so dry that any area appears white in color. “If you've done an excellent job, the weight of resin Will be about 2/3 of the weight of cloth used. To check if there is too much epoxy in the Tayup, pull a squeegee across the surface, stopping before you reach the edge. Lift the squeegee up and look Tor 2 large "ridge" of epoxy where the squeegee stop The ridge under the top ply indicates that the layup 'S too wet and you should spend time with the squeegee to renove epoxy off to the side: Don't hesitate to use your stippling roller or brush on an area after squeegeoing. Some places are Not suited to the use of a squeegee and the dry brush or roller must be used to expel the excess epoxy. On a given layup, about 1/2 of your time should be spent. squeegeeing oF stipp1 ing STEP 8: GENERAL_ INSPECTION River you Rave finished the layup, take a few sinutes and give it a good general. inspection for trapped air, dry glass, excess epoxy, end delamination {eis much gasier to correct. these things while the layup 15 wet than to repair the cured layup. Aso, nave soneone else Hnspect it. Usuelly a different person can find vir flees or bubbles thet are missed By'one inspector. carrya good Tight around for tre inspection. Glance the light off the surface st vari- our'angles to look for-airflects. ff any ait 1s visible, stipple st out, Be sure the overTape the ecges are perfect. “If, due to a shar corner etc, You have aproblen eliminating an air bubble, use one Of the fol Towing two methods (2)“Lifk the cloth up oFF the foam, trove) some wet micro into the troubtesone’ area, add ore" epoxy ae you stipte the cloth back (2) Aad excess epoxy over the bubble, cover the surface with saran wrap (thin plastic wrap). then pusn Firmly outwards to force. the a ave to the sides. The seran wep wil! seat the Surface to keep air fron being erawn in. nis wethod will force the cloth to stay down even around 2 sharp corner. sve 9: oReLIMiNaRY CONTOUR FILL oN Gertain areas, Tike along the trailing edge (see cross section views) require a dry mero fills It is, preferred to apply chis fi1i within 2-3 hours of fin= Shing the fiberglass iayup. "However, where the micro Fitter obscures the structure undernesths FAA. Tnspoct fon should be copleted before. dry micro’ 51Ting Aneos Tike the trailing edge where the structure can be inspected fron the ather side should be filed wile the layup ts stil? tacky (within three hours of the Tapp). YF you vate une the layup cures, you will have to sand. the Fiber-glass surface to a Tintsh before applying the micros Soy mia apa. dry” Mero six and trowel it into low ares while the 1ay- Up fs Still wet, and save’ the work of sanding where feasibie STEP 10: CLEANUP ~~ Brishes CaF be used two to four tines 4f after each layup they are washed with soap and water. Wipe excess epoxy off with a paper towel. Wet the brush and work soap into all fibers by mashing 1t into a bar of soap (Lave brand 15 best). Rinse wieh hot water and repeat 3 tines. Se sure’ they are’ dry before next Use,” We generally use a cheep srush (approxinately $2.00 to $4.00 per dozen) and discard after two or three Tayups. Clean squaegees the same way If You use skin barrier crean (Ply No.9), the epory and crean will wash off eastly with soap and eter. When. you" get epoxy on Unprotected skin, Epo Cleanse 's used to remove the, epoxy. Bath of these roducts are available. Once you are sure your skin is-clean, wash again thoroughly with soap and water, even if oir hands ware protected with plastic gloves. ¥-you get epoxy on tools or netal parts, clean them with acetone or MEK before. the epoxy cures. The only good way to protect your clothing is not, to get epoxy an anything thot You core fore Use 2 shop apron and don't make layups’ in good clothing. A Surplus flight sult or other cheap coveralls are 4 good investnent You may fee) that Tayups are messy work after your First experience with then. However after you've done several, you wil have Tearned not to wipe your hands on your Clothing (keep a roll of paper towets handy), nat to sevatch your ears, eyes, eves during the lajup. If your tools and work area ere clean and organized well and you are disciplined with the epoxy. the Job can be Tess messy than working with other materials. STEP UL: NI TRIM hen a layup is wet, you can only scissor trim to within about 4 inch without disrupting the fibers in ‘the ply. An easy clean trim can be obtained by waiting thrée to five hours after the layup. At this tite, the laminate is firm enough to support the cloth from fraying, yet soft enough to cut easily with 2 sharp knife. "this “knife tri’ stage is the optimum tine for edge trinming with ease and accuracy. Take @ sharp, single-edge razor blade or X-Acto knife and trim the edges with a motion downward toxard the edge Experience will help you determine the correct tine in'th ng cycle for optimum knife trimning. 1m the plans, when "knife trim 1s called for, this assunes the three to four hour wait, even though not specifically stated.” on't fal? apart. If you miss the knife trim Stage and have to trig the fully cured glass. If you wait unei? the layup 1s completely set, then Saw along the edge with a coping’saw, dranel, Bandsam, saber saw, etc.” Snooth the edge with a Sand- ‘ing Block. when trinming a cured edge, be careful of the tneedies™ (sharg protrusions of giass-Frayed edges supported with epoxy) “the needles. can be avoided by returning three hours!after the Tayup to make the knife trim. knife trig tine varies with tenpersture: about six hours at 60 degrees and’ane hour at 90 degrees. R_SURFACES. Surface preparation (step 3 of the basic glass layup) varies with the materiel that you are Taying up over. The layup over foan was covered in detail in Step 3, To prepare a cured giass surface for layup. the cured surface must be sanded to 8 completely dui] Fintsh with 36 to 6O-grit sendpeper.. Tf any of the glossy surface renains, an incomplete bond results which 15 weak: Better yet,.use peel ply as described Tater. Hiero’slurry should not be applted.to glass surfaces being bonded; this weakons the Joint... Wood Tequires no spectal preparation for bonding but should be free of arease, of1, paints, and varnish. Sand wood surfaces with 36-ar't sandpaper before Tayup teeal bonding 1s not relied upon for strength butetal surfaces should be free of of7 and grease and, except for bolts, nuts, and other fasteners, etal Surfaces should be dulled by sanding with 220-grit Sandpaper, and coated with epoxy before setting in place. Cured micro surfaces should be sanded dul but be careful not to obliterate surrounding foam surfaces while doing it. In practice you may be Glassing over several types of material in the same Tayup and you will be using most of these surface preparation techniques together. ATMOSPHERIC CONDITIONS jenperature has the greatest effect on the working properties of your epoxies. 75 degraes farenheit isan ideal tenperature. The range fran 60 to 90 is acceptable with the precautions mentioned in the section on EPORY. Humidity has a lesser effect on ‘these matertals than it does on a sone paints. Humidity will only itis over 75x. Don't undertake 2 layup if it is pouring down rain outside or, if you notice a cloudy plush? on the wet epoxy surface, or any evidence of whiteness in the epoxy due to moisture. RECOGNITION OF A_DRY LAYUP ‘he of the most important things you must know is how to inspect for the presence of air within a jayup. Air leaves somewhat crystal-Itke flecks of white areas, noticeably different than the white color Of the microbal Toons. The presence of alr is shown in the adjacent sketches in 3 forms: (1) A bubble or large void at the foam surface or within the laminate, (2) snall bubbles of air scattered throughout an area, or (3) inadequate Fi11ing of the outer ply. Nake a layup of 3 ply BID in a 6-inch square over a scrap piece of foam, trying to achieve these 3 types of dryness. Let ft'cure with the defects. This will bea handy sample to use to instruct others who will help you inspect: Gaps, Nor Extoucn Bene See — 7} buss > DRILLING, GRINDING, & SAWING ~_DrifTing through cured glass tends to tear the surface plies on the back side. Backup a glass Tayup with 9 wood block for driTTing as show and dri} dee Ae orent Seco FLicwr Peesioné lie Dene Coxe Muri (Geass Poser Bioeo Gioge. PAGE 3-10 Using a small hone, grind the cutting edges your drilt bit flat as shown (not undercut). This, will keep the dril1 from grabbing into the glass. jon't over-do it, just make a couple of Tight passes (ith the hone Howe Levee Tp Avera Dens ‘Gere Corre Ebce In several places rough, cured glass surface occur where overlaps or thick buildups are done These rough edves should be smoothed as shown using a arinder or sanding block Koven Exae Fer, Sane oe Cais A Somer Tames, The orene! (Vato Too!) or Hone shop (verter) 4s avery verseetle tool with ony uses tn te’ construct ton af your G2.. The kite vaustly heve a nice gesection of bitsy cutters, grinders, stongsy ane mandrels Sor every cincieveic use” The three types oF bits, shown hore are the most useful far your prosect. Don't” throw the others out, a5 Jour next door neighoor might beabte to ise’ them en his supersonic anni thoper prosect om na roee 7 Crecwense ee vn | tte ——_/ SS 712 PREP GLASS Bea uP LU ALLOK COMER GL TSS EDGES OD) seuce korney hae i fan _\ TQ courte BRE 22 GEND RIVETING TH pneuratic riveter is not required. The few hard rivets used can be set with a hamer, using your vise as backup. The 'pop-type! rivets are pulled with a low-cost hand puller available at any hardware store.CUTTING THE UNI seAR_cAPS The spar caps used in the main wing, vertical teil, and canard, are strips of UNI cloth that you wilT cut from the roll provided in the kit Begin by unrolTing the rol1 on a Jong, flat surface. the example to be used here will be’a spar cap A that is 8° wide by 50” Tong. You would measure @ 8-1/8" wide piece (to allow for frazzling of the edges) by 50° Tong, with the fiber orfentatfon running along ‘the 50” edge. ‘The technique is one of finding the one strand that 1s at the edge of the 8-1/8" width, cutting it, ‘and then pulling that whole strand the Tenath of the spar cap to remove it. You will now see a clearly Visible gap in the UNT cloth where that one strand used to be, Now, Using an Exacto knife or razor blade, cut a1 of the cross Fibers along that gap, thus severing the Spar cap from the rest of the rol Carefully mark the cap with a centerTine (in this case at the 25" point, mark it with the letter A and roll it up to keep dirt out of the fibers. When you next unrot] it, you will probably find that the edges are frazzled.” As long as you don’t reduce the width below the original calTout (in this case 8") you may pull off strands that are frazzled. Be carefull. to only pull Toose one strand at a tine or else the whole spar cao will start coming apart! pales GaP; Cor Que Sreao HERE Cross Fite. Puce Ths Fase Oo; Then Cor THE Ceoss FIBERS Theu THe S4P GLASS-T0-6LASS Tn arder to improve the rigiaity of a part, you WITT occasionally be asked to perform a glass-to-giass Tayup, sonetines abreviated as GIG. ‘ihe exanple shown here is a giass-to-glass. layup fon_2 bulkhead. Begin by glassing one side of the bulkhead as usual. Next, having turned the bul khead over after curing to prepare the other side for glassing, you will renove foan with a smooth transition so ‘that your next layup WITT bUEt up against the previous glass layup. ‘The anount of “overlap” necessary varies with ‘the loads. On bulkheads, use 2 minimum of 3/8", on the traiTing edges of ai Jerons and elevators use + ininimun, and on the trailing edges of the wing, use 3/8" mininun, ® Paar loess Pay ouecunl | Gate ere er) Mire: Sano Frese ey Commereny (70 REMDUE POA PHENOLIC. BONDING Before bonding phenolic to any surface, be sure to sand the phenolic dull (i.e. to renove the shiny surface) ‘innediately prior to doing the layup. This avoids getting arease fron your hands, etc. in the Jayup, which might cause poor adhesion and subsequent fatlure of the layup. TAPES ‘Quite often during the construction of your 42, you will be asked to use glass tapes to Join two pieces together. A glass tape is a strip of BID cut at 45 degrees Which is used to Tap up onto both surfaces that are being joined, For proper strength, the tape should be at least 2" wide. Geass Tee QUALITY CONTROL CRITERIA INTRODUCTION ‘he of the unique features of the glass-foan- glass coaposite construction technique 1s your ability 0 visually inspect the structure fron the outside. The transparency. of the olass/epoxy material enables you to see all the way through the skins and even through the spar caps. Defects in the layup take four basic forns: resin lean areas, delaminations, wrinkles or bumps in the fibers, and danage due to sanding Structure away in finishing. Resin lean areas are white in appearance due to’ incomplete wetting of the glass cloth with epoxy during the layup. DRYNESS CRITERIA Pick any 6°x6" square in the layup in the critical area. Assess carefully if any evidence of afr in the layup is present (white flecks, bubsles, air at the foam face). If the dryness is'more than 10% of the area, the part MUST be rejected. Reject or repair any vidence of dryness oF voids in the trailing edge Or Teading edge overlaps. Setter yet, do an adequate inspection with good Tight before cure when it's easy to fix. If in doubt on overlaps be sure to stipple tn enough’ epoxy. Delaninations in a new layup may be due to smal air bubbles trapped between plies during the Tayup. The areas Took \tke air bubbles and are distinctly visible even deep in 2 cured layup. Small delaninations, or bubbles up to 2-inch diameter, may be Filled with’epoxy by drilting a small hole into the bubble and filing the void with epoxy. When making a layup, do not be concemed if the brush occasionally sheds’a few bristles: these do not heed to be renoved. If the bristle count exceeds about 10 per square foot, change your brush and remove bristles Occasional sanding through the weave in the first skin ply is not grounds for serapping the part. Care should be exercised in areas, such as the skin joints, not to weaken the structure in pursuit ef an optimum Finish. An excess of resin (wet) will make your eir- Plane heavy and does weaken the layup, but usually not. enough to reject the oart for strength reasons. BUMP/JOSGLE/DIP_CRITERIA Sele BESE way to check this is to Tay 9 T2cinch traightedge on the part spanwise. Move it alf over the surface in the critical areas. If you can see 1/16" gap in any area, the part mist be repaired, It 13 best to repair or beef up lunpy areas even if they eet this criteria. Better yet, do a good job in core Preparation and use your squeegce well in the Tayup to avoid the lunps in the First place PAGE 3-1112" Rute Ser Spaswusee 4S Shawn Loox Poe Gae Boee Luce Zr wee Tut ty" Gar Present Anwnere Te Carica. AREA, Revue Is Maviarory The following fs a listing of the “critical areas"; the portions of the Q2 that must meet all the inspection criteria Entive canard, AN] portions of the fuselage within 10" of th engine mounts, canard, and wing AIT control surfaces. ANI Flying surfaces in the shaded areas shown, plus all overlaps at L.E. & 7 wig. (roe ¢ Borr) VERTICAL aa Major wrinkles or bunps along more than 2" of chord are cause for resection in the wings, canard ang vertical fin, particularly on the tap. (compression Sie). This does not mean you have to reJect. the whole wing = anything can be repaired by following the basic rule: renove the rejected or danaged area and fair back the area ot a slope of 1” per ply with @ sanding block in all directions. By watching the grain you Wil be able to count the plies white sanding. Be Sure the surface 1s completely dull, and Tayup the tame plies as you renoved, plus one'nore ply of BID aver the entire patch. This will restore full strength {othe renaved area, Use this nethod to repair any area danased for any reason = inadvertent sanding through plies éuring Finishing, taxting @ wing into a hanger, etc Geass PAGE 9-12 Leesk Dine Tn Soom Ficceo wird DRY 1d1eke Swe Daw WHene Fcreuswe Fenn Oamace Cccues, A REAACEMENT Blotn £6 GluED' IN wit Wer Meee { Lanmare Same Mumaen § Type ‘an Pures AS Mescis he Peas baat [260 exrea CORNER TREATMENTS A variety of structural corners are enployed in ‘the construction. a There are tvo basic types of corners: one where the glass fibers" are. continuous around the corners and the other where. a senictural filler ts uses and glass 1s bonded to the filler. The corner with the 81885 fibers runring completely around Tee used sivere maxiran strength 1s requtred Inside corners can be Told up quite abrupt. and only a very STight wipe oF dry micro. is needed to get, the glass to lay ‘into it. BID cut st 45" Is used on this type of comer: x bib ares a ‘Sate Der Wiieeo; Wire Zt Conwea Outside corners require a radtused edge. here the glass Fibers run divectly around the corner lyon radius of 3/26 jnen Ye raquireds Where the ‘ers run at-an angle to the radlusy only 9 108 toch radius is needed, ya ONE or BID FE og FIBER ORTENTAT IO! CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGE MINIn some areas a sharp corner is desirable and naximun strength isn't required. In these areas ¢ flox corner 1s used. A sinple unsupported glass corner has very poor strength. To strengthen this corner, a triangle of flox is used to bond the glass plies together. The flox corner is done just before one glass surface is applied for a wet bond to one surface. The other glass surface has to be sanded dull in pre~ aration as shown. UG FloxCoRMeR HEALY NOT Seine Hem. PRECAUTIONS. ‘SKIN PROTECTION TF you work with epoxy on your bare skin, you can develop an alleray to it. This “sensitization” to epoxy is an unpleasant experience and is to be avoided. You generally have to get epoxy on your unprotected skin to becone sensitized. If you use a protective barrier skin cream Tike Ply No. 9, or disposable plastic medical examination gloves, the allergy can be avoided. The barrfer skin cream also allons you to clean up with soap and water after a layup. The Safe-T-Pox epoxy systens are very Tow toxicity. However, a few people (about 1 percent) may be sensitive to epoxy. These people can get. sone help by using doctor prescribed anti-alleray medicines and/or by using elaborate masks/multi-gloves, etc, to reduce exposure. Renenber to always use Skin protection and never Tet epoxy come in contact with bare skin, even if you have no reaction to it. Sensitivity 1s aecurulat- “Wve, such that you may later develop an allergy unless you protect your skin. DUST PROTECTION “Sanding of grinding fiberglass and foams creates dust that can be harmful to your lungs. Use a dust - respirator mask for these operations. Disposable dust masks are available at most paint stores. VENTILATION Aix and work your epoxy in a ventilated area. If your shop is not ventilated, set up a snall fan to move 2 spall flow of air in or out. Do not hotwire urethane foan. PAGE 3-43 HEAT OEFORNATION AND CREEP Several builders have had flying surfaces warp or bend due to being poorly supported until fully cured Do not hang or support then at each end for Tong periods as they nay "creep" or slowly deform, Store then lead~ ‘ing edge down with support in at least three places. Your surfaces can be better protected against "creep" if you post-cure them. SafTplane manufactures do this by putting the entire airplane in an oven at 160°F You can do it as follows: After you have painted on ‘the black orimer put the wing or canard out in the sun Be sure it is well supported in at Teast three places, along its span. Ae noon a black surface can reich 140 to 180°F. giving ft a relatively good post-cure, After the post-cure, the structure 1s more stable for warping or creep. if you have a wing or canard that is twisted wrong, apply a twisting force Tn the opposite direction before and during the post-cure (weights applied to boards 8ondced or clanped to the Surface can be used). Rendve the force only after the surface has cooled. f 200 ft-1b torque (50 1b weight on a 4 ft arm) applied twice, once while the top surface is post-cured and once for the botton, surface, can twist your wing or canard over one degree The twist correction will be permanent and will stay as long as the surface renains cool (below the post~ cure temperature). This 1s generaly referred to as the heat-defornation characteristic of the epoxy. If it is room-temperature cured only, it will soften above 10°F. But if post-cured it will not soften untt? over i60°F. Heat for post-curing or for intentional deforming can be applied by other means such as heat. Vamps, hair dryers or electric radiant heaters (house~ hold type), however this is generally not. recommended, since it 1S too easy for the horebuitder to got. the part too hot and ruin the part. The foam is, damaged above 240°F. If you want to use these heat sources, do so by applying the heat very sTowly and checking the tenperature often by placing your hand on the surface. If you cam hold your hand on the surface five seconds without pain, the tenperature 4s okay-three seconds’ 1s too hot. AIRCRAFT MEASUREMENT REFERENCE SYSTEN To ease the engineer's task of defining where things go in these odd-shaped gadgets called aircraft, a fairly standard systen of references has been devel ed. Fortunately the Q2 is so simple that an eleborate easurenent systen 1s not necessary. It is, however, convenient to use the standard terainology for refer ence occasionally and you should be familiar with its meaning. ‘The three basic references are caTled butt lines, fuselage stations, and water lines. Don't Blane us for the absurd names, we didn't set the system up. AIT three are given in inches from sone arbitrarily. chosen reference, 50, fuselage station 100 is found 100 inches away from’ fuselage station 0, and similarly for butt Tines and waterl ines. Being’as Tazy as anybody else, we abbreviate these as FS, BL, and Wl Fuselage stations (FS} are used to define the Jocation fore and aft on an airplane. To make things easy, fuselage station 0 is generally located near the nose of an airplane and measurenents are made aft, Fuselage stations are the most comonly used of the references and later on you will make a reference mark ‘on your airplane to use as a permanent FS reference point. Watertines (WL) are used to define vertica Tocations. Waterline 0 is generally found near the ground and measurements are made up from WL 0. Waterlines are utilized in many places té position components or templates relative to each other by Tevel- ing reference water]ines with a carpenters level Butt lines define positions Inboard and outboard. Butt Tine O 4s the vertical centerline of the airplane and measurenents are taken to the left and right of BLO. Since left and right depends on which way you are facing, it is standard practice to define left and right as the pilot would while seated in the cockpit. Using these three references, any point in an airplane can be described with a fuselage station, butt Tine, and waterline. Fortunately, your Q2 15 so Simple that we don't need to locate very many things this way. When you start on your 4/5 scale replica of a Bel Bomber, this reference system wil] be real handy.SUREACE FINISHING IWTRODUCTION “Finishing the composite airplane 1s more tnportant than simply obtatning an attractive paint. job. The Finish on a eonposite aireraft serves. to protect the ftnlcture from deter oration due to ultra’ violet radiation (Sunlight). The Finishing materials also give the airplane its final aerodynanic shape. Using the proper materials and techniques, the Finishing process is pleasing (both estheticatty and aerodynan- cally), and provides for Tong maintenance-free Service. Use of sub-standard wateriats can Timit the Tife of the Finish, result in an overveight airplane, and-even Tinit the’ service Vife of the airfrane. Sanding’ is done frequently during’the Finishing process and extrene caution must be exercised to avoid danaging the structure. A poorly executed finishing job can destroy the structural’ integrity of the airfrane. jen the Finished color of the composite aircraft can effect its structure. The Finishing process. 1s as important. to the structure of the composite airplane as basic materials and techniques used in fabrication are. Proper techniques must be adhered to for safety a5 welt ae fo obtain an attractive afrplane. The G2 is sensitive to weight grovth.. You may easily add 50° pounds during the finishing process 1f you try to Finish the entire aircraft, to saiTplane Standards (smooth, wave-free surfaces). ‘there 1s one’ pare of the aireraft thet must be finished to a Snooth and wave-free surface ~ the canard. We have found that unless the canard is smooth and wavesfree, serious. degradation of per= Formance and fying qualities results. This section will tel? you how to obtain a smooth and wave-free Finish on the canard. The rest of the airplane, in order to keep it as 85 possible, should be sanded with very Tittle Filing, then primed. and then painted. | This wil? allow sene of the fibergiass weave to renain showing, but your 92 will stil? Took good Renerber, buiTé tt Tight and finish it Yights every pound of weight that you save during the con- Struction and finishing will make the aireraft rch more fun to fly in the coming years FINISH COLORS_AND HEAT wi The naterials used in anateur-built composite airframes are’ predominately epoxy resin systens with fiberglass reinforcenent over a variety of plastic foam gores.” The epoxies and the foams are ail sensit~ ive to high tenperatures. Sone epoxies, cured at elevated temperatures, retain their physical. strength to temperatures not found outside an oven. Others, including most. room tenperature curing epoxies. such a5 the Safe-T-Pox system, soften and Toose their Tigidity at only moderate tenperatures.. The common plastic Foans are also heat sensitive and. tend to Soften and. (some) swell with moderately elevated Yenperature. Elevated temperatures could potentially cause a softening of the fiberglass loed bearing material, a swelling of the foam core, end general distortion of the airfrane. To echieve elevated emeratures you would have to bake your airplane or Find sone other means of heating it. The sun isa potentiet source for this heat.” In’stitl air, on Shot sunny day it is possible to obtain surface temperatures thet approach 250°F. The color of the Surface determines how mich solar heat, $t will absorb. ite surfaces absorb very Tittle (10%) of the sun's heat white 9 black surface (35% absorbsion) wil] heat up tremendously, The aceoppanying graph. shows the relationship between color end surface tenperature White has been choosen as the standard color for fiberglass seiiplanes to preclude any possibility of excess temperature die to colar heating. The sane criteria apply to the Q2, and white 1s recomended. Trim colors in Tess-eritical areas such as. the fuse~ Tage, vertical tail, and the underside of wings and canard, can be other. than whit are def nately not recomended on ‘the upper-surface of srings-and' canara IF you vould Tike further tnfor=— imation on the Subject read the Septenber 1975 tssue of Soaring magazine PAGE 3-14 Busce Deoans Keo Gees aemice ¢ Tine roo Weseeit iat sag restr ware Pine Suocice Tempeesrine (°4) eee Amsieur Are Tempoenroee (Q¢0k Cue y. (Rew: Soaguss: Serr 75) TOOLS AND MATERIALS the tools and materials used in finishing the composite airplane are sinple and straight foreward. A low density microsphere/epoxy mixture (dry micro) is used for coarse Fi11ing requirements. Automotive type polyester body Fillers (Bondo) are very heavy and not recomended as a primary aircraft finishing mater— fal. Mediun to light surface filling (less than’ .030") is done with a light weight polyester spray (or brush) Filler/pringr called Feather-Fill, Feather-Fill is noteworthy for its ability to £111 medium thicknesses ina single spray or brush coat and for its easy sand~ ing to a smooth surface. Dupont 70S dark gray laquer priner/surfacer provides an effective ultra Violet radiation barrier with its 15% carbon-black content as well as an excellent finish sanding surface In. pre- aration for the finish paint. The actual finish paint ‘type is largely a matter of the builder's personal preference. Autonotive finishes in laquer, enamel, acrylic laquers, acrylic enanels, and the polyurethanes are all acceptable. We find the acrylic laquer is easy to work with, easiiy patched, and readily polished to a high gloss. ‘The enafels and acrylic enamels are low cost and easy to apply; however, they are not readily repair— able if chigped. The polyurethane finishes offer the best gloss for the longest life, but they are high Gost and virtually impossible to repair. There is a Bolyester paint, known as Prestek, commonly used in Sailplane circles to achieve a glass-snooth finish, but it 1s heavy, requires a tremendous anount of work, to get @ high gioss finish, and chips easily (brittle). ‘Sanding will occupy a'large percentage of the tine spent Finishing the composite aircraft. Sand- paper in 36 to 60-grit, 100-grit, 220-grit, and 320-grit roughnesses will be used. Standard 9411" Sheets are the most versitile. Use a good quality ‘aluminur oxide, or silicon carbide sandpaper. Don't waste your money on the cheap flint-type sandpaper. Power Sanders are not recomended; it 1s too easy to danage the structure while using then. Hard (wood) and soft (foam) sanding blocks and the sanding spline Shown will be-your primary finishing tools. A paint spraying setup will be desirable for feather fi11, ULV. barrier primer and finish painting. Some hand brushing of feather fF11 and’ ULV. primer can also be fone.The sanding spline is a finishing tool connon to the saflplane industry. It is an easy tool to make and does. an excellent job of contouring. You may Find it handy to make two, one for coarse grit sandpaper and one for medium or fife sanding. The spline is an easy ‘tool to use but it my require your close attention at first. The spline fs always held with handles parallel ‘to the leading edge of an airfoil surface (wing, canard etc.) as shown in the sketch. The sanding mation ts fon a diagonal to the leading edge while the spline's handles are held parallel. This takes a Vittle getting used to but becomes second nature after a little practice, £5 (2) Vel om [x2 Lege 476 Ay Posysryeene Foam B10 Lawe (BloewnreaORance) Ovee Warer ab PAPER (ps CS Swwrsven Sneer 7 Tie WeoDEn HAOLe (ise A Dx" Sueer) HUMELES TB THE GUS WiTH SOM Oe SAFET Pox ene anne THe Geass Wire Fate 20 SaFE-T- Pox SANDING SPLINE THE FINISHING PROCESS inishing the composite airplane ts a five-step operation. Repairs or rework of structure must be completed first, before the obscuring finish is applied, and final structural inspections must be complete. Second, coarse contour fi11ing is done with microspheres/mixed with epoxy (dry micro) as required in areas Fequiring .03 inch to .20 inch of fi11.. Any except- ionally gross fitting (over .20 in) is also accomplished at this stage using a foam filler. The initial contour sanding begins with the cured microsphere filler, and exceptional caution must be exercised to avoid damaging the structural skins while sanding. Third, featherfil? is applied to fi11 medium sized surface defects up to 03 inch, and as a general f111 of the glass surface eave. The fourth step is the application of an ultra Violet barrier primer. Fifth, the final finish paint, is appl ied. The following sketches are descriptive of the finishing process and its potential pit falls. The sketches use an exaggerate! scale to show details more clearly. STEP ONE: _INSPECTION/REPAIRS ~" Before you begin Finishing, the entire structure must be airworthy. You can hide poor workmanship from ‘your own eyes and’fron the inspactor who will finally approve your first flight, but you can't fool mother nature! “All structure must be sound before finish naterials are applied. The following sketches are a review and clarification of the quality contro! criteria found in Chapter 3 . Each airplane must have @ ‘thorough inspection and required repairs completed as the first step in finishing The best way to inspect the structure for bunps or dips is to place a 12" ruler on the wing or canard Span-wise, as shown. Gaps under it approaching 1/16" height. must be repaired. Looe Foe Gas Caee RUER LORRECT- Cer Fraces Shoup 8 Sresicur, Mer EINkED, DISRUPTED, OR CROOKED INCORRECT CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGEGintoawse Wkwnees ‘tee Wet Deer Oven MORE SECTION, AAT BK Ono oOo Rene LMCOERECT SECTION 8-6 CORRECT Once ts Dib on une vee Mone Deeg or teen Choke REQ! \perecr SECTION 8-8 “CORRECT an seme ces perccr | ee > “SECTION 6-6 Te SECTION OD DACORRECT Srune Husoees dee kePr Prenlee TLE OF WIIG _—— meee a. | Cuascti a SELIE MOTION STEP TWO: _ COARSE FILLING “You aust Be @xtra cautious in this step or you may destroy your structure. Wnen you take a peice of sandpaper and start grinding on your conposite structure it's Tike using’ acid to clean a metal wing spar. It rust be done carefully! Start by determining which areas require micro filler as shown using a flexible yard stick and 2 scale Prepare the areas to be filled by hand-sanding lightly. Do not try to use a sanding block or spline on these Trduck 0.03" Bur Lubee 220% Hee ULE Dey Meee. Te hace 093" Che Pearer Flee Sree, Rue Ge4ss f RKY Strat Pot Cone INSPECTION. Siw Lignrey wird Sue Pree see 4 2 Sancriee, Damice eae Wwe so00!/: LMEROPER SANNG. CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGE PAGE 3-16Paint a thin coat of epoxy over the area to be filled. Dry infero is then lumped over the area. The FiI1 must be high, such that material 1s sanded away to bring the area inéo contour. The micro should be nixed very dry (lots of microspheres) to seve weight. Let the micro cure at least 24 hours. Sand the micro overfil1 into contour using a hard sanding block, or spline with coarse (36 to 60-grit) sandpaper. Exercise extrene caution while sanding. A few careless strokes with coarse paper can ruin your structure! Very Ory ices faut SANDED GtaSs Suersce LomPED Micn bm Eroxy Berone Dey Mrceo Flores Be ay | O03" 7 0.20" FILL Fue caree Stra Ekeess MMices MPA EEAWER [Downs To CuiPOUR Pua Doar S40 \ Zirzo Strccre |! Ata) a SANOING. Were: he A Hed Swsoes Btoce, SoFr Bice, 0 SPLINE ieirTH COARSE 3é-€O GRIT Stuonapee. Fark; Cawu To FiF ~ ‘idea SANDING J@LASSING STEP THREE: FEATHER FILL Sand the surfaces Tightly by hand or with a soft foam Sanding block in preparation for feather 111 spray or brush coat of feather F111 will bufld up 0 to .03" thick, 111 the glass weave and any mediun sized out-of-Contour spots. Feather ill will require several hours curing tine before it can be sanded. The cured feather FIT Is sanded to contour using a spline or soft block and 100-grit sandpaper. Again, extrene caution must be exercised not to danage the glass structure in pursuit of a good finish. The contouring rust stop inmediately when the highest glass peaks begin to be visible as the feather f111 1s sanded avay. If you find that you have underestimated the #11 required or just have a thin coat, don't hesitate to use a second coat of feather FIIT; A well prepared surface generally won't need more than one coat, When you have Finished contouring the feather F111, the surface should be basically smooth and fair. The priner to follow is not intended to be contoured heavily, Just soothed with finer sandpaper for a smooth Finish while leaving a substantial ultra violet barrier. ‘After you have filled and contoured, reinspect for sanding damage; it is an easy thing to dol Renenber, you are only allowed to sand into the first skin ply'in local areas no greater than 2 inches in dianeter and a11 of these areas must total Tess than 10% of the surface area. Wherever thare is only one ply, or where the UNT cioth is crossed for strength (2.9. the canard and wing skins), no sanding of the ply’is allowed, except for "scuffing up" the surface, Be careful! Soace Prcmoces F Law Spors Pu Micke EULED WiFi PEER 004" ‘Diy Tie Fk Cert 3808) ety" (xe Coens dese Zee SEE oa ‘Bier Be On Eis Gear ALELICATZON, Sroe SabiitG’ LrameDiavety Lise G48 APPEARS 47 chiaey Sears SAVOING STEP FOUR: PRIMER The uTEra violet radiation barrier is provided by the heavy carbon black content of the dried primer (Dupont 70). "The priner gives the whole surface a flat black color and the sanding should never renove it completely, exposing the light aray feather #111 below.’ The pier is, sprayed on, aT Towed to dry, and, sanded lightly to achieve @ smooth surface. The primer coat 1s sanded using 220-grit and the second Coat very Tightly wet, sanded with 320-grit. hen complete, the primer is very smooth, dark, and ready for Finish paint. STEP FIVE: FINISH PAINT Follow the manufacturer's directions for the type of finish paint that you have chosen, COCKPIT INTERIOR Te is not necessary to f11 the glass weave, although sone very Tight sanding nay be done to smooth the surfaces. Apply one coat of the Dupont 70S priner to the interior glass surfaces for ultra violet protection prior to painting the interior. A Tight color (Iight grey, green, or blue, etc.) js reconnended on the cockpit interior to avoid high heat buildup when the aircraft is parked in the sumer sun with the canopy locked. Autonotive trunk paint may also be used. Its "speckled" appearance will hide the weave of the glass cloth. PAGE 9-17CANARD. SURFACE SMOOTHNESS IS CRITICAL During the Quickie program we built and installed a canard that resulted in very poor low-speed per formance. stall speed was 10 mph higher than predicted and tuft tests showed stall angle-cf-attack over three degrees loner than extinated. We later traced the problem to’a wavy upper surfaces the canard must be shooth. ‘OF course, the big question is “how smooth"? ‘The best way to check this is with a steel pocket ruler, the flexible kind that's only .02" thick, or with a plastic drafting ruler. Hold the ruler as Shown in the sketch, pushing it to the surface with two Fingers 2 inches apart. If the surface is a sooth curve between your two Fingers the ruler wiTl Tay down following the curve with no gaps. If the surface is bumpy or wavy the ruler will touch the surface only in 3 or 4 places. Take a feeler gauge ta measure the gaps between the ruler and your surface, If you have @ gap of more than .005 inch, your surface is too wavy. Check this in several placés from the leading edge back to 50% chord. The bad Quickie wing had gaps of about .012 inch. ifter refinishing with gaps of Tess than .005 inch, its stall angle of attack Hncreased from 8 deg. to 12" dec The best tine t0 use the ruler and check for snooth surface is when sanding the Featherfill with the spline. Recheck after sanding the 70S black priner. It will not change when white paint is sprayed on. CAWvARD AMARD WAVINESS TEST AMATEUR-BUILT Q2INSPECTION CR 1.0 Scope “This document has been prepared to assist inspection personnel by providing recommended acceptance criteria and acceptable repair practices for the Q2 anateur-built composite Sandwich structure 2.0 BACKGROUND_INFORMATION 2.1 DESIGN CRITERIA The materials, methods, and practices employed by the amateur builder’ in the construction of the Q2 type are new to light aircraft construct- fon and ray be unfaniliar to the inspection personnel involved with the 1icensing built aircraft. Structural design criteria for the Q2 exceed F.A.R. part 23 requirements. In-house component testing of the primary flight structure has been conducted to 200% of design Yimits. Detail docunentation of test data is on file af Quickie Aireraft Corporation. The aireraft 1s considered to be a utility category aircraft: Q2 builders are being supplied with ‘a complete owner's manual which specifies 217 placards, operating limitations, normal and emergency operations, flying qualities, maintenance sp'cifications, inspection’ proced- Ures, and initial flight test procedures. 2.2 STRUCTURAL APPROACH The basic structure throughout the design fs a composite sandwich of Toad bearing fiberglass Skins separated by a light-weight Toa core, While the nater{als and processes are taflored to the amateur builder, the structural layout is very similar to the honeyconb composite structures stil ized in pilitary and transport type aircraft and fiberglass sailplanes. Loads are carried by epoxy/"E"-type fiberglass Tamina,. Foams of various types and densities are employed as a form (upon which the Toad bearing material 1s shaped) and as local buck- Ving support. In no instance are foams used to transmit prinary Toads, as is the case in some other amateur-bu'Tt designs 2.3 INSPECTION TECHNIQUES The transparent nature of the fiberglass/epoxy material allows for visual inspection of prirary structure from the outside prior to Finishing. Defects in the structure, as described in paragraph 3.0, are readily visible even in the deepest laminate. 2.4 INSPECTION SEQUENCING The external visual inspection capability provided by the materials allow inspection of all primary structures at any point before finish ing. All primary structures are at the surface, eliiinat ing the requirenent for "pre-cover" for “closure” inspections. Opaque Filler terials are used throughout the airplane in ‘inishing, and inspection eust take place before any areas are obscured, Sone areas may have opaque materials applied to one surface where the structure is inspectable from the opposite side (wing trailing edge for: example). 3.0 DEFECTS 3.1 YOrDS Interlaminar voids in a new layup may be due to small air bubbles trapped between plies during the layup. These void areas Took white and are distinctly visible even deep in a cured layup. Interlaminary votds up to 1 inch in dianeter do not require repair, as long as they do not consist of more than 88 of the Interlaninar voids (eirbubbles) up to 2 inches in-dianeter are acceptable when repaired as follows: A suall hole is drilled into the void and epoxy 1s injected into the vold area. Snall voids such as this may occupy up to 5% of the laminate surface area. Voids greater than 2 inches in dianeter should be repaired as shown in paragraph 4) CONTINUED OW NEXT PAGE PAGE 3-18 ymateur-3.2 LEAN AREAS Jireas where the epoxy/glass matrix 4s incomplete because of inadequate wetting of the clath with epoxy (lean areas) are speckled whitish in appearance. The fully wetted laminate will have a consistant transparent greenish appear~ ance. Epoxy lean areas are acceptable, as long a5 the white speckled area is Tess than 10% of the surface area. White to green ratios greater than 10% require rejection or repair a shown in paragraph 4. RICH AREAS, Resin richness prinarly adds weight to the Jaminate. While some degradation of physical properties does occur, a overly wet (rich) layup is not grounds for rejection. INCLUSIONS Bristle paint brushes are used throughout the layup process. As a brush begins to deterior- ate it will shed sone bristles into the laminate. The bristle inclusions, up to 20 bristles per square foot, are not cause for ejection. Occasional inclusion of smal] wood cchips or other small foreign objects ¥= not grounds. for rejectton FIBER DisueTion In all instances, $t is good practice to have ‘the glass fibers’ lying flat and without wrinkles. Major wrinkles or bunps along more than 2 inches of chord are cause for rejection ‘in the wings, canard, and vertical fin, particularly on thé upper surfaces. (compression side). Disruptions greater than 2 inches require repairs per paragraph &. FINISHING DAMAGE Damage to the external structure by sanéing in preparation for surface fil) and paint can occur. Occasional sanding through the weave of the first skin ply is not grounds for rejection. Sanding through areas greater than 2 inches in diameter completely through the First ply or any damage to interior plies must be repaired in accordance with paragraph 4. A damp rag passed over the sanded surface wil! make the plies show up to determine how many plies have been sanded away. SERVICE. DAMAGE Damage to the glass structure will be evidenced by cracked paint, or "brooming™ of glass fibers. Both of these indicators are clearly visible If either type of indication is present, the paint and filter should be sanded avay, bare aninate inspected, and repairs made per para graph 4 as required. Where surface danage has occured it is also iikely that local foan Crushing has been inflicted. DELANINATIONS Delamination of glass/epoxy 1ap joints is evi enced by physical separation of plies. These defects are easily visible and easily repaired. The leading and trailing edges of Flying surfaces (wing, canard, vertical fin) should be free of delamination. MULTIPLE DEFECTS Where multiple types of smat] defects occur in a laminate (voids, Tiber dislocations, and Jean areas for example), they should not. exceed 3 total of 10% cf the surface area of the Taminate, or 20% of the wing chord at any fone spanwise position. ae 3. 3.6 3. 3.8 3 4.0 REPAIRS There are seldom single defects so massive that amajor component must be scrapped. The repair procedures described here may be applied throughout the QUICKIE and QZ composite sandwich structures. SHALL VOID REPAIRS Voids up to 2 inches in dianeter may be repair= ed by drilling @ smal} hole into the vold and injecting the void full of epoxy. A vent hole opposite the injection point is required to allow air to excape. 4a PAGE 3-19, 4.2 LARGE DEFECTS Excessively Targe voids, lean areas, finishing damage, Fiber disruptions, major Fiber wrinkles, or service damage nay be repaired using this Procedure. Remove the rejected or damaged area by sanding or grinding the taper the glass laminate on a slope of approximately 1 ‘inch per ply in all directions. The plies are vistble as the sanding is done. The tapered glass edges and surrounding tW0 inches of glass Surface must be sanded completely dull. Danaged underlying foam should be removed and the void Filled with a dry microsphere/epoxy mixture oF a replacenent foam piece. The danagad area 1s ‘then laminated over using the same type and orientation of glass plies reraved, each ply Vapping onto the undamaged glass at Teast. one inch. “The whole repair area is covered with an additiona bi-directional glass ply. DELAMINATIONS A delaminated joint should be spread, the mating surfaces sanded dull, gap filled with flox {epoxy/Flocked cotton mixture), then clamped shut while it cures. 5.0 MATERIALS Since a wide range of similar appearing materials exists which exhibit substantial differences in physical (structural) properties, Quickie Aircraft Corporation has estab- Vished 2 distribution system to: provide the anateur builder with proven acceptable materials. Quickie Aireraft Corporation strongly discourages the substitution of materials. Horebuilder substitutions for the basic structural materials constitutes naJor structural modification to the Q2 design, and coutd adversely effect flight safety 6.0 APPLICABILITY ‘These acceptance criteria are different from and, in sone cases, much looser than for similar structures found in sailplanes and other contenporary composite structures. These criteria apply only to the QUICKIE and G2 structutes. “Design safety factors in excess of three enable somenhat. relaxed acceptability criteria compared to other sinilar structures. 4a END_OF SECTIONPRACTICE LAYUPS FLAT LAY The First practice layup that you will make is a Vayup of six BID plies onto a flat surface. This is, intended £0 give You experience in the techniques of glass/epoxy work and to give you a check on your work- mmanship.. You should be able to complete this layup in about half an hour. Protect your work bench by taping waxed paper over an area abaut 28" by 24", (or, find a piece of hmetal and wax its surface). This will keep the epoxy fron bonding to the table top. Cut six plies of BID ‘that are about 124 inches by i8 inches 6 Py BD Ose Sare-r-Pox Laminate the six pites on top of the waxed paper: Try to do your best job of stippling and squeegeeing so that the plies are completely wetted but not full Gf excess epoxy. Let fhe: Tayuo cure to knife trim Carefully mark @ 10 inch by 16 inch fabout Four hours. rectangle and knife trin the layup to that size using a sharp razor blade or trim knife, Allow the layup to cure completely. If you forget the knife trim, cut ‘the cured piece with a coping saw or band saw. Take the cured 10°x16" piece to your post office, or any accurate scale, and ask them to weigh it for you. Your laminate should weigh between 10¢ and 124 ‘unces. A 104 ounce layup is about as Tight as can be done without voids (white areas). A 121 ounce layup has too such resin, and if you make all of the layups in the airplane this wet, your Q2 may be as much as 50 pounds over weight. An 11 ounce Tayup is. Just, about perfect. “Save this piece; it will be useful to check future iayups against. CONFIDENCE LAYUP The second practice layup is one intended to give you confidence in the strength of your work. This 1ay- Up 1s a sample of composite sandwich structure and is) typical of the load carrying structures in your 2. lihen this layup {3 Finished, and completely cured, you WITT subject it to a simple load test, and thus demon- Strate the strength of your worksanship. First, tape a piece of waxed paper about 30 inches Jong to the top of your work table. Shape a piece of green foam as. shown’ re te ue Seen! Romo For Coowens PAGE 3-20 Go to your glass cutting area and cut the glass pites. shown. Mace dt Lay up two plies of UNI, two plies of BID, paint the foan with micro slurry, and press it in the center, Then lay up the other BID and UNI plies. Be careful to work all air bubbles out of the corners. The best way {s to stipple with the brush. The glass is oversized so that it can be trimed to exact dimensions later, Trim to the dimensions shown after curing 24 hours, using a coping saw or band saw, Allow the piece to cure for four days at room temperature before the Toad test. cat,
| DOP VIEW | 23.6" (Saved Fram Carnare) Zadar | r Hor wee) Front Strap) SZEVATOR 8L9ES- BLLIOO LT i TOP VTEW 7 : 9 al PEN 338" (Saved Fram Canard 174 “Cdlon Her Wiree) From Serop) ELEVATOR BLES - BLI00 RT PAGE 5-3VERTICAL FIN The vertical fin is cut out of the remains of the piece that you used to make the canard center section Core. (Renenber, the one we told you to Keep and not throw away). The sketch 1s self-explanatory. BY Oe view ® sere, —| fag J... #20 _. 7 veeTICAd FIN RUDDER AND VERTICAL FIN TRAILING EDGE These two cores avé made from the piece marked ‘save’ that was left over after hot-wiring the main wing, BLS0-100 cores. The stagger shown an the front View is necessary because the rudder core is 27" long, while the renaining trailing edge length is only about 13", Tt 15 suggested that you cut the rudder core first, ‘and then reduce the block Vength to 13 for the trailing edge core. AS a note of explanation, the rudder extends up the vertical fin only part way. (Similar to the way that ‘the aileron extends outboard on the nain wing only ih We | Sg 4 8% aio BE a BUDDER VERTICAL FI TE, Cone WHEEL PANT CORES The wheel pant cores are cut out from the scrap pieces that you now have laying around. They needn't be hot-wired, excest to obtain the proper thickness, but rather can be cut out by bandsaw or coping saw. NISCELLANEOUS USES The remaining scrap can be used for many miscell- aneous purposes, such’ as supporting major components to avoid damage, soft sanding blocks, Filets to clean up airflow, etc’: use your tnaginati PAGE 5-4AILERONS, RUDDER, AND ELEVATORS CONSTRUCTION AILERON consTRUCTION SESRDU ailerons may be constructed at the same tine. These instructions wilT only cover the construct ion of the left afteron, but the Fight aileron ts 8 mirror nage. egin by finding C89, which {8-0 48" tength of 1° 0.0.'x'0.035" wall 202479 Alunisun tubing.” You have already hotawired the aiteron foam core, 50 find it alsos the alleron foam core shold be timed t0 246" length. aasteatiy, you wil? join ¢S9° to the aileron oan cores satd the Joints to remove bums and Jogoless Tayup the bottom skins Tayup the top skins andy finally, trim the trating edge after installation on the mein weg. aegin by sanding £59 to renove grease, finger prints, and the oxidation layer on the sluninun. Trial #18 C59 to the alleron foan cores. aix Up sone micro slurry, ond then Jofn CS3 to the afleron foam Core on a flat surface. Use nails 40 hold the tno ces together , Once this combination has cured, sand away 217 of the bunps and Jogsies. Next, turn the afTeron over tnd lay 1 flat-on the table, bottom side up. Put Peel Ply along the trailing edge using smelt tacks to hold it in place. Layup 2 UNI at 45 Deg. to the ‘trailing edge (T.E.) At the leading edge (L.E.) let the cloth drop vertically to the table and knife trim at the point tangent to CS9, Trim the trailing edge to within 3" of the foam core trailing edge. hen this layup has cured, turn the afieron over and lay it flat on the table. "At the leading edge, feather the UNI plies to the foam to renove the Joggle. At the trailing edge, sand off the “tail” until you rreach the Peel Ply. Renove the Peel Ply, and sand away any bumps and Joggles. Layup 2 UNI at 45 deg. to the trailing edge. "At the leading edge, overlap a minimum of 0.5" onto the previous botton layup. At the trailing edge, Tayup glass to glass. Leave the jeron alone unti1 it has cured to avoid changing the alignment, and then feather the top surface UNI plies to remove’ the leading edge (L.E.) Joggle. Leave the trailing edge untrinmed unt] after the aileron 1s mounted on the main wing, so that it can be ade to match the trailing edge of the wing. The Joggle on the bottom of the ailerons (as well as the Joagles on the bottom of the rudder and elevators) is filled with dry micro after installation of the’ aileron on the wing or during the finishing phase. ‘Aileren Foon Core CS9 - Flesh wth " loboord 7. a cotboard ecges of Ail vm Core, Akron Top SLOE VIEW Flot Tobse - Cellophane or Wax Faper overlay Peel Ply- eld with tacks Off of trom be ‘SEE_NEXT pa CLOTH OWA 4G" Minimum overlap anre bottom La, aye Flot CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGE 2 NE ob 45° fo TE Mileron Tip Flat Table FOR DETAILS OF CUTTING AND LAMINATING os Zasert scrop toom fo 4eep out epoxy. 2WL ot IS" TE. Aileon Top Sloss-fe-Glass trim te leagth on assembly File, ke wtb de ‘gia te rea la brow ar doting Phe, Barvhing pheis cot edge parallel LSE LG loco Poon Core Lttur RUDDER CONSTRUCTION ~The rudder construction is very similar to the aileron construction that you have already coupleted, Re-read the ATLERON CONSTRUCTION section before pro- LYoth Lar_Ailerons Leanaating Cloth For _Aylerads Motes: OF preces C2 fops 2 boom) Peperred per arleran @ Torn prece over + cher Liter Gives big 90 fa Py #2, Syerng, correct eaky ‘The lamination schedule on the rudder is 2 UNT on either side at 45° to the T.E., just like the aileron. Measure the rudder foam core and cut the UNI cloth t ceeding further. Uni tke the $ileron, the rudder 4s @ tapered chord, symmetrical surface Senin by Finding ¢S2L, which is a 27% Tength of 150.0, 40.095" wall. 202873 sluninun tubing. You have ready hot wired the rudder foan core, 0-gather that ploce also; The rudder foan core’ should be trinned to 2)" length. Basically, you wiTl Join CS21_to the rudder foan cores sand the’ joints to renove bumps and Joagies; Yayuo the botton skin: layup the top skin: end, Finally, trim the trailing edge (Tv,) aftar instal etion on the vertical fin. the proper size. Follow the AILERON CONSTRUCTION procedures to join CS21"and the rudder foam core, as elt as to do the lamination. Because you have already performed the sequences once; guard against becoming sloppy. The Finished rudder should Took much better than the first aileron because of the practice ‘you have had. Cs2t — Flush with toe § bottom etees of fram SIDE VIEW 2 UME at IS? be TE (Tap F Bottom) Glass-to-Glass 18° phinimeny overlap ante bottom layap RUDDER COMPLETE PAGE 6-2ELEVATOR CONSTRUCTION ‘The elevator construction is very similar to the aileron construction that you have already completed. Reread the AILERON CONSTRUCTION section before proceeding further’ These instructions cover only the construétion of the left elevator, but the right elevator is a mirror image. Tt is suggested that both elevators be construct= d Simultaneously. Since the elevator has a tapered rd 8 SURE TO’ MAKE ONE LEFT ELEVATOR AND ONE RIGHT ATOR Beain by Finding S16, which is a 72" Tength of 1" 0.0. x 0.035" walt 202613 aluminun tubing. You have already hot wired the inboard and outboard elevator cores, so gather these together also. hen the cores are joined they should total 6 ft. in length. Basically, you will Join the inboard and outboard core together, insert CS16, replace the front foam pieces, sand the conbination after it has cured to move’ bunps and joggies, layup the bottom skin, layup the top skin, and final trim the trailing edge after installation? First, verify that the circular cutout for ¢SI6 hot wired in the foam cores is large enough by putting the cores, CS18, and the front foam piece together dry. If the front piéce won't clanp up against the core easily, carefully enlarge the cutout for CSI6 until it Will, "The micro slurry will require approximately 1/32’ gap. Front Foom Pace Elevator Foon Next sand C516. Mix up mfcro slurry paint it both on C3i6'and on the Foun wherever (S16 cones fn contact with foam.” Join the inboard and outSoerd foan Gores. together wish micro slurry insert. cS16; then insert the front foam peice. ba not telescope Csl6 into’ tha core hy pushing 48 fron one ends this wilt Cause volds tn the bonds Instead, it should Be inserted all Tong the span'at ore tines” Use nats fa hold everything in place wifte it cures. (see AILERON EONSTRUCTION),ond verity that: both ends of {Sig-ave Pash wih the ends of she elevator fan ‘he elevator lamination ts 2 UNI bottom and top at 45 deg, to the trailing edge, just, ike the afleron. Maasure the levator foan cores’ and then cut the Uff Cloth to the proper size. ‘Nore than one piece of IND WiTl be required to cover the entire J" elevator span. Where’ the UNI pfeces Join, no overlap ts needed, (Ge: butt Seine 4 Of) but Stagger the joints on Ply 42's that the foom along the butt Joint Tine is Covered. Lay up these plies exactly Tike you did on the aflerons: “bon'e forget. the foan scraps: in the fend Of C816: Do-not trim the trailing edge unti? Sfter the elevators are mounted on the canard. Mere To Obtain 72" Core length, trim LL" Frum 82 98.9- ie. foo Cone § 2" tram BL IS Bevbk long, lore SLOE VIEW Elevator Top Le Miauumy averiap on) Botple leyge 2UNL at 45° TE. (750 ¢ Bottam) Glass-to- 6 less Z£LEVATOR COMPLETE END_OF CHAPTER PAGE 6-3VERTICAL FIN CONSTRUCTION INTRODUCTION Remove Quregesee The vertical fin is @ symmetrical sandwich composite structure with solid foam core, two layers of UNT at 45 GFr OF TAL degrees to the trailing dege of the vertical fin for torsional stiffness and surface durability, and spanwise as tapes of UNI for bending strength. The skills thet you earn in this chapter will cone 1a handy on the more complicated structures Tike the main wing and canard. JTGGING THE VERTICAL FIN Construction begins by Jigging the verticel fin core on the jigging table.” Locate the vertical fin core that you previously hot-wired, along with the vertical Fin trailing edge core. Find the vertical fin female jigging templates (2) Heasure 10.0" down the trailing edge from the tip of the vertical fin (the small chord ena) and make & ‘ark. Renove. the portion of the vertical fin core Show “ints done beease the adler extends omy = partway up the vertical fin, Trial Tit the vertical Fin trailing edge core against the vertical fin core LERTICAL LIN COBE where’ the surgery had been performed. Note that. the vertical fin tratling edge core was hot-wired Tonger than necessary, and wil have to’ be trimed to fit properly. heh the cores are dry fit together, they Should make a smooth transition. If not, any depress- tentlar/ Trina ——— dine Gor) ions must be Filled with micro prior to glassing, and VERTICAL any busps and joggles can be sanded away. Join the vertical fin core to the vertical #in trailing edge ones fore with micro slurry and a few dabs of 5-MIN to hold Fare o ELM ‘the two together. Since the vertical fin is symmetrical, f, Peee verify upon assenbly that the vertice] tin trafting edge Direction DORE core is not attached cocked to one side. Next, glass the vertical fin slot with 2 BID at Deda ror 45 degrees tothe spanwise direction. This will be wre dios i easter if you support the vertical tin core vertically “700°77* tempararity. ee VERTICAL FIN Sor CAMINAT ION Now, study the sketches and Jig the vertical Fin core to the vertical fin fenate jigging templates with the ‘tail! of the vertical fin trailing edge core point- jing down toward the {igging table. Make sure that. al? level Tines are level. Sand the ‘tail’ of the vertical fin core so that when you laminate the skin, you will Crt obtain a glass-to-glass bond at the vertical tin slot. 76 come The Tamination of the skin and spar caps 13 very wearin Fv CORE Wpericge five Fe FED Hin IEE making the ailerons, elevators, and rudder. It would re) > perhaps be wise to review that chapter at this time. Wig Table SECTION 4A ° a IOP ; aap LRONT VIEW teens, Pow Te Cae ra Tab, De wen CCONTINUED_ON NEXT PAGE PAGE 7-4Guta] of the UNI cloth for the skin and spar caps. ta 2 UNI at 45 degrees to the trailing edge ‘of the vertical fin. Don't forget the peel ply tape ‘on the trailing edge of the vertical fin traiTing edge core, and vemenber to knife trim the leading edge at the tangent point,and to obtain glass-to-glass bonding in the vertical fin stot area. Next, laminate the two spar caps. Permit the lamination to set unbothered for at Teast 20 hours. ‘After allowing the Tanination to cure, you are now ready to turn the vertical fin over and laminate the other side. If you are careful when renoving the vertical Tin fron the vertical fin fenale jigging template, you will be able to use the templates again in the faTlowing lamination. Check all level Vines again and again before completing the jigging The Tanination for the other side of the vertical Fin is identical to what you previously accomp! ished. Renenber to sand down the "tails' on both the vertical fin trailing edge core and the vertical fin slot area. At the leading edge of the vertical fin, feather the previous glass layup. Laninate the skin first (2 UNT at 45 decrees to the trailing edge), overlapping at ‘the Teading edge a mininun of 1" and making a glass-to- glass bond at the trailing edges, and then laninate the spar caps. Let the vertical fin cure for at least 24 hours. Later on, you will modify the shape at the vertical fin root so that it can ‘plug into’ the aft fuselage. For now, content yoursel® with adding a small piece of Urethane to the tip, carving it to a pleasing shape, and glassing with 1'BID, overlapping onto the vertical fin. END OF CHAPTER PAGE 7-2 SAE ARS: @ o«38" 6's at" SKIN LL at as° TE VERTICAL FIN LAMINATION More: 2.2. means ohag comburBASIC FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY INTRODUCTION faging the fuselage is your first major assenbly task on the 02. Because the Q2 fuselage shells are provided you in a prefabricated form, jigging 4s Simplified, and there is no massy carving of urethane foam, as 15 the case with other honebuilts. Perhaps more’ inportant, the average builder will Find that with the prefabricated fuselage shells, a smoother, aesthetically more pleasing shape wit! result (carving foam puts the Final’ shape and beauty in the eyes of the carver) and that the final weight will be as much as 30 1bs lighter since all excess material is renoved through the prefabrication process and the vast majority of finishing weight is eliminated. But most finportant probably, is that you can be sitting in the cockpit making airplane noises in a very short tine — a most definite incentive to finish the rest of the aircraft! PRELIMINARY TRIMMING AND JTGGING OF THE SHELLS ‘aselage shells ave shipped to_you in four sections - upper and loner forward fuselage and upper. and lower rear fuselage. The upper/lower longitudinal Cut line 1s arbitrary; the cut ine that separates the forward fuselage from the rear fuselage coincides with the fuselage cut Tine used for making your Q2 trai The shells are Tong, and mist first be trimmed back to the proper Tength using the trim lines on the parts. If a particular trim line is difficult to read, ‘trimming the part during jigging will yield the best fit. The parts should be inspected by the builder for quality control using the Composite Materials Education chapter as a guide. In addition, if you measured carefully, you would find that although the shells will Took synmatrical left to right, that there is some assymetry from left to right. ‘This is nothing to worry about, Just note for future reference. Locate the § fuselage fenele Jigging templates and the bulkheads that you made previously. Study the sketches to obtain a feel for where Jigging templates were setup to jig the fuselage approximately Tevel with LIS wren’ the Jigging table is Tevel; note that the Tongitudinal fuselage spit line does not coincide with a WL. Establishing a WL fs important so that the main wing and canard can be mounted later at the proper angie of incidence. — erable. First, you should setup the fuselage female jigging tenplates at the FS locations called out on the templates. Use. some triangular corner blocks made fran scrap lunber to hold then vertically temporarily. Next, set the lower fuselage shells into the fuselage fenale jigging templates. Do not be concerned if you find it necessary to nove the fuselage fenale jigging tenplates fore and aft to achieve a good Tit; remember that you are not looking for a perfect fit, just a resting place for the shells while you asseeble the fuselage. Once the locations of the fuselage fenale jigging templates have been astabl ished, Bondo then in place so that. they WiTl not shift position and rest the two Toner shells into then: Trati fit/the upper fuselage shells onto the bottom ones ang make any trim line corrections at this time. It Tookk Vike an aircraft doesn’t it? PRELIMINARY THIMMING OF THE CANOPY CUTOUT i arder to provide seceay to-Uhee Harton of the cockpit, you Will need to digress for a monant and make 2 Fitting of he pre-trinmed canopy to the upper forward fuselagg so that a cutout can be mede in the Upper forward fuselage. The forkard face of the Firewall {s FS14.0; the forward face of the seatback bulkhead 1s FS78.0. Therefore, measure 6& inches from where the forward face of the firew1l will be Tocated along a W. to establish the aft edge of the canopy. Next, establ ish 2 preliminary BLOO Tine down the Forward upper fuselage shell. Orape the canopy, which 1s sent to your pre-trimmed ‘to rough’ shape, over the forward fuselage. Even up the Sides by measuring the distance on each side up from ‘the Tongitudinal fuselage split Tine and adsusting the canopy until the distances match. Also, check for skewing. Now, take a marking pen and draw a Tine around the outline of the canopy where it touches the Fuselage. Sone triming of the canopy may be required to make it Fit flush against the fuselage shel7. Remove the canopy and make a cui around the upper foruard fuselage shell at the Tine. To be conservative at this point, you may wish to not cut quite all the way to the Tine, and then final trim the cutout later, AIT you are trying to do here is to gain access to the inside fuselage and to establish a rough Fit on the canopy. 2 Furvee Locariow of veencad Fit \ \ Siang Tec’ GEvEL) Coton €ATER) SEE NEXT PAGE Fuseeace SHELLS Spurewe S175 BvienEAD I As/59 iseLAce FEE TIGGING TEMAATE Nnfesecace | Sues seer ces F320 bistiack. EM ALE TIGGING TEMPLATE Coewee BLOCK COKTIMUED ON NEXT PAGE Pep eonice PAGE 8-2 uewrun. Canory Fusoe BURMEAD Seareace BMEAD: Wtesccacé Fomine TIGGIG TEMPLATE crvp) COgMER Block he A120 Lasse IN J Gieanie Trace CKevel,canted portion to be moved aft, which increases cockpit oon, Moving the break point up woves the canted portion of the Seatback Bulkhead forward, making the cockpit nore confortable for shorter people. The nominal FS64 shown on the sketch as the intersection of the forward edge of the seatback bulkhead. and the fuselage bottom is optimum for people up to 6" The forward face of the Seatback Bulkhead rust be at Fs78. ‘Once the Seatback Bulk is trimmed for position, you may trim the FS98 bulkhead. For many reasons, this bulkhead does not go at FS94, and is the only except- fon to the refatfonship between Tuselage stations and Jocations. The FS94 bulkhead should be located. so that the forwaré face of the FS94 bulkhead is at FS96. This is to allow proper clearances and fitting for ti main wing upon its installation later. AIT bulkheads are mounted vertically (use a Tevel) except for the canted part of the Seatback Bulkhead. when you feel confortable with the fit, (no, we are hot talking about all the cockpit tine you've been giving yourself!) then bond the bulkheads to the lower fuselage shells. The F120 and FS175 bulkheads receive 1 BID tape Front and back around the joint with good nnicro squeeze out, the seatback bulkhead and F594 bulkhead receive 2 810 tapes front and dack, and BID tapes to join the canted and upright portions of the Seatback Bulkhead. "(Be sure to bevel the intersect jon). The firewall 1s mounted with 3 SID tapes outside, wrapping around the corner (which means you will have to radius the edge} and 2 SID tapes on the inside. jentlemen and Ladies, each BID tape must. Tap onto’ the fuselage and bulkheed 2 mininum of 1 inch for proper structural joining. Use the level to check for. the vertical orientation, and check the squareness of each bulkhead with respect to 8.00. Do not install the instrument panel or fuel tank at this time, MOUNTING THE canopy Text onthe agenda is to permanently attach the canopy to the upper forward fuselage, in preparation for cutting out’ the canopy frane. The procedures used are basically to final trim the cutout and canopy for fit, then to glass the outside canopy to the outside fuselage, and finally to Fit the aft canopy bulkhead and glass the inside of the canopy to the inside oF Fuselage, Note that the sketch shows a lip on the inside fuselage glass. This lip is to assist in jigging the canopy. in position for those outside fuselage tapes. Since the canopy is much thinner than the fuselage core, stirring sticks, foam, etc. will need to be used to provide a firm surface to laminate the outside tapes acainst, ‘The canopy is joined to the outside fuselage with 2 BID tapes, overlapping the fuselage a mininun of 1.5 inches, and’the canopy a aininum of 0.7". Liberal Flox 18 used to fill any voids prior to glassing; peel ply the lamination and allow it to cure 24 hours. Canopy Fan, Corer Srieevtg (LSTIRS ET 70 MARE CANOPY Fei an" on Wirt OUTSIDE GLASS More LP Feox 7 Bam Coxe 4s INS/DE Geass Seis Glass TAPE To TU OUTSIDE GLASS SEW CANOPY MOUNT (OUTSIDE, CAnvery ¥ Ski (OMT Akounib Afr Cory ) PAGE 8-3 Next, the canopy mounted to the fuselage is turned over and the aft canopy bulkhead fitted into position. The aft face should be located a maximum of 1/8" for. ward of the forward face of the Seatback Bulkhead with 3 few dabs of S-MIN. It is permanently mounted with Flox and 2 BID tapes on either side, lapping onto the buTk= head and fuselage a mininun of 1.5 inches, end Tapping onto the canopy a minimum of 0.7” inches. 2 810 rapes fot much lopprng oate canara APT Cauery Buck EAD 2610 tapes PBR WEW Crnory AET CAMRY BULEHEAD MOUNT Also, sand down the Vip jn the inside fuselage skin Tanination and contour the inside fuselage atin smoothly into the canopy. Then Yominote- S16" (eith Isberal Flax to F111 the voids prior to: glaseing) wish 0.7 inh mininun Tapping onta the canopy a minimum of 1.5 Inches Tapping on the exiseng fuse iage insiee skin. ° a Permit the laminations to cure for 26 hours. Onory MOP, MOU T INSIDE) Feex Fue Qe7soaeDJOINING THE FUSELAGE SHELLS “This step is very exiting; you are going to act~ ually complete your First major Structure - the fuselage. In this section, you will join the top forward fuselage shell to the lover forward fuselage shell ,and the top aft fuselage shell to the Tower aft fuselage shell. Do not join the four shel?s at the fuselage cut Tine: ‘Also, each bulkhead must be joined to the shells with the Sane number of tapes used previously to attach the bulkheads to the Tower fuselage shells. This section will require mny cure cycles due to problens in accessing all area at one tine. Begin by Joining the rear fuselage shells together. 2 BID tapes of at Teast 4 inches wide are used along the Joints inside and out. 1 BID tape fore and aft is used to join the Fs120 and FS175 bulkheads to the top aft fuselage shell. You will have difficulty reaching back into the rear fuselage to Taninate the tapes. You may * elect to skip ahead to Chapter 14 and cut out the aft top fuselage where the vertical fin assembly fs insert- fed so that you can reach the aft face of the FS175 bulkhead and the inside of the sean. If you elect to do that later, don't forget about it. Of course, micro slurry is used between the parts Joining the forvard fuselage shells is somewhat more difficult because of the access to the forward fuselage area. lihatever area you cannot reach at this, time, can be accomplished after you cut out the canopy frame and thus reestablish access to the forward cockpit area. The forward fuselage shells also receive 2 810 tapes at least 4 inches wide along the joints on both the inside and outside. "2 B10 tapes fore and aft are used to attach the F594 and Seatback Bulkheads to the top forward fuselage shell. 2 BID tapes, inside, and 3 BID tapes outside, are used to attach the Firevall to the top forward fuselage shell. These last tapes should be at Teast 4 inches wide, and don't forget to round the outside edge of ‘the firewall/shell. junct- fon prior to glassing. These firewall tapes are very ‘important to keeping the engine attached to the rest of the aircraft, so do a careful Job of laminating then, (Unt ike the rest of the joints, the firewall- sheli junction should be painted with epoxy, not micro-slurry). This entire section will consune many hours of work and become very frustrating. Take pride in the Fact that you will soon be able to sit in a completed Fuselage! SeATBNCK. (vixHeAD Casaty Teo kine | Toe SHELL Luswe 24" 1D Tees to Join Shells ¥* BD zo join shells (2) et Ry) MeRo-Seukey Torn Bor yom SHELL 2y7B0ARD JOINING THE FUSELAGE SHELLS CUTTING Tae copy FaaNE Ta-this section, You regain access to the cockpit aren ond obtain your’conapy frane at the sane’ tine, the Sketches Show the suggested cut" Tine for the canopy Frome This Tine somewhat arbitrary on our parts Que, she rest of the cockpTt area ts des{gned around tt so be Carefull of deviattons:. Mark the Tine with a felt oped marker on th’ shelTs and check for symmetry. se a fine tooth hacksau blade to carefully cue through ‘the sandwich. Put the canopy frame/canopy assembly ® aside where it won't be broken accidental iy Oon't be surgriseg Sf the task takes several hours to accomplish, Aso, don't forget the reas ining topes te Join the shel! and buleheads toyether Lusrevmenr Pimce LMS. Cawory Fesmt Swans SPur ine Cor L& inary CUTTING THE CANOPY FRAME PAGE 8-INSTALLING THE LONGERONS ‘A Tongeron runs on each side of the cockpit for~ ward from the Seatback Bulkhead to the Instrument Panel. These Tongerons are made of 5/8" square wood and must first be bowed to shape tn order to fit the curvature of the fuselage side Support, the Tongerons on each end and place weights in the middle, as shown. Permit them to stand ‘this way for at least two days.” The wood should bow in the center after a short while. If you wish to be ry scientific, you may measure the anount of bow required by skipping ahead and checking the curvature on the fuselage sides where the Tongerons will. be mounted Werewr a LREBEWLING LONCEONS. Once the canopy frane has been cut out and the Jongerons boned statically, then they should be mounted in the fuselage to increasé the strength of the fuse~ lage. The sketch included here shows. the location of the Tongeronss note that they basically go just below the canopy frame cut out Tine. The Tongerons must be installed as shown here in order far the canopy hinges to be positioned correctly. ‘so nate the UNI giass and 2 BID glass used to mount the longerons, in addition to the Fox, These tapes significantly increase the stiffness of ‘the Tongeron, and must be Tapped onto the fuselage a ‘minizum of 1:5 inches. The UNI orfentation is along the Tongeron; the BID is laminated at 45 degrees to the Tongeron’ Tine. Do not use micro between the Tamination and wood. Cynery Feame Cor Lane BB Lente pod Mek Samensare Bh ris AeDEE! £810, 4UNE L BID More: CAWOPY Feame On rrep QurBoARD CTY A, LONGEROM I? Ad: END OF CHAPTER PAGE 8-5 LO;MAIN WING CONSTRUCTION INTRODUCTION The main wing 1s a sandwich composite structure with solid foan core, two layers of UM at 45 degrees to the trailing edge of the wing for torsional stiff ness and surface durability, and spanwise tapes of UNI for bending strength. The T.E. of the wing is perpendicular to BLOO. (i.e. the trailing edge of the wing has no sweep). The aflerons are on the inboard section of the wing, and are actuated by an aluninum torque tube. Shear'Toads are taken by & vertical shear web. The main wing is constructed in one piece from tip to tip for strength, lightness, and ease of construction CUTTING THE SPAR CAPS Begin by cutting the UNI spar caps using the suggested Tayout on this page. Letter each one of them with a felt tipped marker for identification ater, in addition to marking a center! ine in the middle, (where the cap will cross BLOD when installed ‘on the’main wing). The technique for cutting the spar caps is described in the Conposite Materials Education Chapter and should be reviewed at this tine. Se sure to carefully roll up and store the spar caps after cutting to prevent danage, TGGING THE MAIN WING Construction begins by jigging the main wing on the jig table. Locate the main wing cores that you have previously hot-wired. "It is not necessary to use either the aileron stat foam cores, or the main wing trailing edge cores, at this tine. Find the main wing care female jigging tenplates (6). Now study the sketches. The main wing cores are Jigged upside down on the jigging table using the main Wing core fenale’ jigging templates. If your table is fot at Teast 200 inches Tong, you will have to extend it with a few 2x4's using bando, in order to locate the’ BL00 main wing core female jigging templates. Note that the shear web is perpendicular to SL00, and that the main wing core female jigging tenplates have Yeading ané trailing edges that are tangent, respect= ively, with the leading edges of the main wing cores, and the main wing shear wed. Begin by drawing a straight Tine along your Sigg- ing table and marking the locations (BL's) of the main wing core fenale jigging templates. Next, texporarily set the main wing core ferale jigging tenplates on the table so that their trailing edges are along that straight Tine and their positions coincide with the appropriate BL locations. A string stretched spanwise with a weight attached at either end (see CANARD chapter) may be useful. CONTINUED OW NEXT PAGE Main Wing Core Tipsing Tenploke S Typical & pl a i ae a je" @| @}@ | ytd i° js] | MALIN WING LHR CAP COTTING cAyouT NOTE: See Bottom and Top Nein Wing Lamination Drawing for exact sizing of sparcaps A thru M. Level Line heey Mam ag lore Tiaging Fonplare sua fovpo Cra) ora Tig oe SECTION A. Mein Wing Cores Tigged Upside. Pour. Tg Tbk I 204 Lumber ertend tabhe Ar 84100 Main Wing FRONT. VIEW Ji99°79 Template Cose Bonde * attack) Straight TED sheer web f Tig TableSee jystrve tans aad detach on cething he rap So0r Cops (ose of he out wing 2 ad CE ‘areuad L.&. 5 1 | WING SKIN: SL CAPS! GQ) so". 190" lSheor Web | BLIOOR +2 WNL at dS* f TE; ® 9x 60" 800 BLIOL, “2 own shear web 0 ” "Vice te bovvow © ax @ 7x #0" ae. 1s ‘eloag contour” @ on © s°x Zo « Forwerd q 2 a _ WL) A Wrap Spor Cy separ enteots, Nf greta Ce (Sac. cy re = —_ a | @-\ | +2 UNE at 4S* 6 7E; = +2: gous shear web amates ee cle ve @ Bx ee @ 2 « 60" QM» fo" ® fox 22" O ole" W Sx 10Now begin ta trial fit the four main wing cores into position. Be careful not to put too much pressure on the foam cores and damage them. The two ‘inboard cores will have to be beveled at 6100 by sanding because of the min wing dihedral and the other core Joints may have to be sanded to make the cores fit with: ‘in the maximum tolerance of 1/16", The level lines on a11 cores must remain level at ali tines. This 4s important, so take your tine Stand back and sight spanwise along the main wing to verity that the main wing is straight, and is not bowed or kinked. Verify thet the leading edge is Straight fron each tip to BLOO, and that the trailing edge is straight from tip to tip. Don't be concerned if the main wing core ferale Jigging templates need to be moved Inboard or outboard to remove any bows or kinks. Also, & long straight, edge wi11 help you looking for kinks and joggles: lihen everything is perfect, mix up sone bando and carefully bondo the main wing core female jigging templates to the table top in the necessary Tacations Next, rest the main wing foan cores on the main wing core fenale Jigging templates. Check the alignment. and individual Tevel Vines again. Then RECHECK the align Trent and the individual level lines, Then RE-RECHECK ‘than again; get the message? Stirring sticks, scrap wood, etc. can be used as shins to Tocate everything properly. The next step is to join the foaa cores together with micro slurry after verifying that the core Fit is within 1/16". “Check, recheck, and re-rechack each core evel Tine and alignient as the cores are joined. Finally, attach the main wing Foam cores to. the main wing core fenale jigging tenplates with smal! dabs of S-MIN, being careful not to move the cores after the final level line and alignment check. ‘caution : The main wing foam cores mist fit within 1/26" or exatherm damage may result. TRIMMING THE MAIN WING FOAM CORES When the main wing 1S attached to the fuselage, it cust fit betieen the FS78 bulkhead and the FS94 bulkhead, As can be Seen from the sketch, this requires that the Forward “nose” of the main wing cores be removed. You may wish to skip ahead and read the section on MAIN NG NOUNTING to have a clear understanding how the mating is accomplished. Go to your fuselage which is laying in the corner and sit in it. This "cockpit time" will help give you confidence that you really can build an aircraft, Don't forget to make airplane engine noises and move ‘the “naginary controls; it helps with the illusion. When you are tired of this, get out of the cack- pit and measure the distance on’your aircraft fron the aft face of the FS78 bulkhead to the forward face of ‘The F594 bulkhead. Make these two measurements at WL30, outboard at efther Fuselage side at. the FS78 bulkiead. They should be the same - about 16.3" since you are only hunan, they will probably each be a little different, end either more, or less, than 16.3". Also measure the width between the tho points ‘that jou took the measuremonts at. You are now ready to transfer the infornation onto the main wing foan cores with a felt tipped marker pen Using the main wing shear web and the BL00 foan core Joint as the reference mark the two points on the foam cores, and connect then with a Tine. That Tine should Fepresent where the F578 bulkhead-wil1 meet the main wing core. Verffy by making measurements that this Line intersects the main wing leading edge inside the fuselage once the main wing has been mounted, If it doesn't, then you will have to taper and round the main wing core area outside the fuselage sides to avoid an ugly looking flat, spot on your main wing. Next, move the Tine aft about 0.10" to allow for the glass build up as you Taninate the main wing skins and spar caps. This second Tine on the nein wing cores 15 the. trim Vine. Note AL) measurements indicated above should be made along 2 WL, not along the contour of the wing. PAGE 9-3, @Q-e" CUTTING CLOTH FOR MALL WING SHOULDER WARNESS_INSERT_INSTALLATION Each shoulder haméss Ts installed in a Y fashion to the lover main wing. Prior to glassing the bottom of the main wing, the shoulder harness inserts (2) must. be installed. Find the two 1" square by 3/16" thick mild steel plates provided (Sil) Install one of then with Flox at about BL9 left, about 2" along contour (ac) from the trim Tine, flush to the surface of the main wing foan core. Install the second Sil similarly at BL9 right. SHL Wing Owe PORUIRE Tim ie SAL INSTALLATION. PREPARING THE MAIN WING CORES FOR GLASSING i this point, the main wing cores should be jigg- fed on your Jigging table upside down, S-ninuted and bondoed in piace, and not about to ave under anything short. of an earthquake. Use a hard block to clean up al7 jogales, excess Inicro, and any bunos on the main wing cores. "At BLOO, ound’ the Joint so that the glass wil] flow snoothly across the joint. Rt the T.£. (shear web), round the corner so that the glass will flow smoothly down the Face of the shear web. This 1s your last chance to determine the shape of your main wing, so make the mein wing cores as perfect as you know how. And, oh yes, AE-RE-RECHECK THE MAIN WING TIP LEVEL LINES: If you are not proud of everything that you have accomplished on the main wing so far, don't go on to the next’ step until you LAMINATING THE BOTTOM SKIN AND BOTTOM SPAR CAPS Study, the two sketches Tabled "Bottom Main Wing Lamination" and "Top Main Wing Lanination" very carefully. Today, you wil? only be doing the “Bottom Main Wing Lanination", but that one is enough, and will take 3 individuals about 2.5 hours to complete. (The ‘third individual mixes epoxy while the other two do ‘the lamination) To summarize the lamination, first you will lant ate the wing skin, which is 2 plies of UNI at 45 to the main wing T.E., and then you will laminate spar caps A thru F. Begin ky getting your shop organized for @ big layup. Next, cut the UNI for the main wing skins as indicated’on the sketch, Tabling each one so that you will know where It. goes. Once you start this lamination, you will have to continue it until you finish, so if you want lunch, 9 cup of coffee, or a nap, now is the time to do it. CONTINUED ON HE}The first UNI ply is put on at 45 degrees to the nain wing T-E.. The fibers must be straight, so take ‘your tine getting the wrinkles and kinks out. Don't {et ahead of yourself on pouring microfoan siurry on the foam; otherwise, by the tine you are ready to place the UNT over @ particular area, you will have a nessy, hard lump of slurry. Work with one piece of cloth at atime, and with shal] batches of slurry and epoxy Also, unrolling the UNI cloth as needed is advised to reduce the ackwardness of the large pieces. Scrap. UNI can be used to fi11 in any small spots not covered by the large pieces of UNI. ‘At the Teading edge of the main wing cores, et the WE cloth hang vertically down. Trim to within'1" of the tangent point, just Tike you did on the ailerons At the trating edge, allow the cloth to drape around the corner and down to the botton of the shear web so that the UNI is at 45 degrees to.the T.£. on that fa also. Trim the main wing tip UNI to within 4" of ain'wing core. Inboard, along the trim Tine, also allow the UND to drape aver the edge and down'to the botton. No overlap is required on the UNI wing skin; just butt fit the skins together. You must, however, squeegee the cloth well to avaid building up excess epoxy. in the lamination ‘The second ply of UNI is also placed to the T.E. of the main wing cores but in the other direction fron the first ply, so that the two plies of UNL will have thefr major fiber orientations at 90 degrees to each other. The second ply will be easier because it is being layed up over glass and not the foam. Try to avoid having the butt joints fram the First ply of UNI coincide with the butt joints fron the second ply of UNI. The second ply of UNI is also draped around the corner and down to the-bottan of the shear web, so that the shear web has two plies of UNI at 45 degrees to the T.£. and at 90 degrees to each other. Trim all edges like you did on the first ply. Spar Caps A thru F are laninated in that order, with the widest cap going on first. To-pick up a spar cap and place it on the main wing, use three people. Wile one person holds each end of the spar cap, the third removes any frazzles, being careful not to reduce the width below what 4s called out for the particular spar cap, That third person then stands at BLO0 and positions the spar cap in the proper location (center! ine on 8LO0 and proper distance Tron the Tead- ‘ng edge of the main wing) while the other two individuals keep the cloth off of the foam so that it won't stick. When the center (third) person is ready, one of the individuals holding an end Vays st cow spanwise on the main wing in the proper position (in relation to the main wing L.€.) and renoves any wrinkles and kinks, This can be a siow process, so stay patient. Then the man (or woman) on the other end does tke- wise. The center individual makes sure that the spar cap smoothly "turns the comer" at 8L00. ‘Squeegee each spar cap from BLOO outboard to keep the UNI fibers straight. Work out any wrinkles or kinks by pulling carefully on the Fibers. "The renaining spar czps are each put on in a similar fashion. We know you are getting tired, but {you Must squeegee each cap well to avoid butTding up Considerable epoxy on the bottom plies. Use extra epoxy very sparingly on the Tast spar cap. Locate the places where you bonded tn SHi's (the 1" x 1" mild steel plates) and laminate a pad of 20 plies of BID over each one. The BID cloth Should be about, 2" x 2" dimensionally, at 45 degrees Before quitting, peel ply all Joints, and the First tuo inches of the main wing L.E.. Also, knife trim the L.E. at the tangent point, just like you did on. the aileron. Then, clean up jour mess and go celebrate your wizardéry ag a laminator. DON'T ‘TOUCH THE MAIN WING FOR AT LEAST 24" HOUR: NOTE If you have room and can be patient, it would be better to pemit the botten main wing lamination to cure for 48 hours plus. In the meantine, you could skip ahead and perhaps ‘do the aileron slot foan core slot laminations. But, if your Tike everyone else, you won't be able to résist making that Staging table into'a main wing for your Q2 as quickly as possible. LAMINATING THE TOP_SKIN AND TOP SPAR CAPS Build a Franwork Out OF strap Tunber and bondo to hold the main wing jigged in place while you turn it over. As shown in the pictures, we suggest that lunber run from tip to tip with a few cross pieces Don't get fancy, just tie everything together so that the main wing won't move, (and, yes, we know the pictures show the canard, but we forgot to take sone of the mein wing jigging). PAGE 0-4 Next, when you are sure of your framework, break loose the main wing core fenale Jicging templates with a hammer (they won't be needed again), and turn the main wing over so that the unglassed cores are upward. Set the main wing on the jigging table once again. Check the main wing tip level Vines. shin, and bondo until the main wing tip level ines are perfects almost doesn't count. Then bondo the heck’ out of ‘the Jigging as if you were expecting a few kids to use your shop for playing cowboys and Indians. At the Teading edge, feather the botton skin to a feather edge at the tangent point just like you did with the ailerons. Prepare the main wing core top Surface just like you did the main wing core botton ig, and surface. (See "Preparing The Main Wing Cores For Gassing) fou are now ready to laminate the top main wing skins and top spar caps. Do it simitarly to the bottoa lamination. The skin is the sane tyo UNI at 43 degrees to the T.E., draping over the TE. down to the botton of the shear web and the spar caps are G thru M this, tine. At the Teading edge of the main wing, overlap the bottom skin with the top skin a minimum of 1". Rather than Tet the spar caps drape over the T.=. down the shear web, trim the caps at the T.E, Peel ply the shear web and all joints. Don't touch the wing for 48 hours after you have finished it. Instead, go sit in the fuselage sone more to pass the tine, or else skip ahead and keep working. Before removing the lunber, bando a level board at about midspan on each wing half. This 1s to help in attaching the main wing to the fuselage Tater. Attach the level boards carefully, so that they wil? agree.SLASSING THE ATLERON SLOT FOAM CORE SLOTS The aileron sTot foam core instde sYots are glassed with 2 BID at 45 degrees to the spanwise direction. (i.e. T.E.). knife trim to the edge of the foam core, as showy on’ the’ sketch. 28D Pip’ 2x2" Speare Aileron, Slot Fam, bore ue Ao sponse orecpur ALLERON. SLOT ED LASTDE AMINA LOE SHOULDER HARNESS INSTALLATION Renenber those 20 BID plies that you laminated over the two SHI's when you performed the "SOTTOM" skin and spar cap lamination? Now 4s the tine to aril1_and tap each SHI with a i x 28 tap for a ANE bolt later. The sketch’ shows the complete assembly. We don't recommend actually attaching the shoulder harnesses until after the main wing 1s mounted to. the fuselage. Note that both shoulder harness straps of each shoulder harness assenbly are attached to one bolt, in a ¥ fashion. Also, the 4130 Steel Bushing should be as short as possible, to reduce bending Toads on the bot. Spovlder Bushing: Ye O.d. «Wy fo 4/30 Harness Straps ie wLing SHOULDER HARNESS INSTALLATION INSTALLING THE ATLERON SLOT FOAM CORES 5 Step 1s critical to having @ nice looking main wing and aileron union, so follow the direct- fons carefully. To start out with, the aileron’ slot foam cores that you hot-wired way back when were purposely made Jonger than necessary. Your first task 1s to size ‘them for the correct length. To do this, you must Ieasure your fuselage width at the fuselage/aileron Slot foam core junction. Take measurenents of the main wing, skip ahead to the section on "Mounting ‘The Main Wing To The Fuselage", and deternine that dimension, on either side of aL00.. Mark the proper points on’the main wing. Wait to trim the inboard aileron slot foam cores until after they have been installed on the main wing Next, determine where to trim the outboard aileron slot foam cores. Since each elevator vas made 48" Tong, measure 48" plus 1 inch (For a‘leron/ fuselage clearance) fron your first mark outboard and place another mark. ‘This is where the outboard aileron slot foam core will be trimed, but, as before, wait until after installation to doit. Skip ahead to the CANARD chapter, “Installing The Elevator Slot Foan Cores" section for a sketch showing the geonetry of the attachnent. It is easier to check clearances top and bottom if the min wing is jigged vertically on the Jig table. This will also keep the joint from running. “A few scrap pieces of Tuber and bondo should be sufficient. ‘The important point to remember is that at the shear web attach point along the span, the top and bottom of the aileron slot foam cores’ should flow smoothly into the top and bottom surfaces of the Once the attachment has cured, trim the aileron slot foam cores back to the “Eventual Trim Line. (See CANARD chapter, “Installing The Elevator Slot. Foan Cores™ section for a sketch showing the detail) Next, sand down the "tails" so that you can achieve 2 minimum of 0.4" of glass-to-glass bond with the inside sTot lamination, white at the sane tine fairing everything nicely into the main wing contour forward of the shear web. At the glass-to-glass bond area, you mist sand avay all micro and epoxy and get down to the glass. Spend sone time Tooking at the surfaces getting the alignment the best that you can. When everything is ready, laninate 2 810 at 45 degrees to the main wing shear web on the aileron slot foan cores, top and bottom, being sure to achieve at Teast 0.4% of glass-to-glass bond, and Tapping up onto the main wing at least 1". Note that the sketch in the CANARD chapter calTs out. dry-micro f111 if requifed at the top and bottom of the shear web Joint. Trim the inboard and out~ board aileron slot foam cores at the marks previous- Ty made on the canard natn wing, respectively. If the aileron slot foam Cores want to stick up a little bit, this is Ok since that can be sanded later. Any dip, however, will have to be filled with micro. This fit is, inportant cosmetically, so take you tine. The aileron slot foam cores are installed to ‘the main wing shear web with micro-slurry on the foam cores and epoxy’on the shear web (don't forget to remove the Peel Ply!), plus a few dabs of SeMIN to keep the two attached during cure PAGE 9-5ED leer: Main Win eS Shear Web eS Location eI QUTBOALD AILERON EI EA. Eh csro ZRUOT ASSEMBLY | View [ooking Sou at lett =I Qileron, bight aileron 73 FE vairrer Mnage. ey Aileren skia gy M3P43 Pop Eivet Ee hese (3 per cach MDESMT pesus, 1B | uaQARO AILERON PIVOT ASSEIGLY, , Thase Tnstructions caver only the assenbly of } oesn7 the left cutboard tiferon pivots but the right out- gems 059 board aileron pivot {se mirror’ inage, end nay be Ko vio accorpl ished at the sane tine, DCSME First, find a QCSM7 pivot and position it 4 about 0:25" Inboard of the outboard end of the afler~ levaco=aa onvasing 9 WSPHD cherry rivet apace rasta at AV96O~ jeast 0.4" apart. An 97-4 Washer Find C510, and insert a QCSMS stud as shown Washers the 2 washers and the 2 4362-828 nuts. There Fup | sou Nore: @CsM) Shown as sectioned Aleren ovtbaard edge —F Zé Aileron Y AILERON TNSTALLATION ~~ Tn this section, you will mount the ailerons ‘After the main wing is attached it will only be necessary to connect the CS5_and CS12 push-pull tubes in order to have a functioning aileron control system. This section is very important, so take your tine and read through the entire section several tines prior to starting any of the procedures. Begin by jigging the main wing verticaTly on your Jig table with the L.f. pointed down. This will make it such easier to rig the ailerons. dumber “tps Tig Table ILGGING MAIN WING VERTICALLY be a minim of 0.6" fron the ANB60-{ washer inboard to the end of the QCSHS stud. This is to ire the aileron to be moved inboard at Teast, before it "falls off” the QCS"5 stud for dissassenbly. Finally, round the end of the QCSNS stud Sitghtly to assist in mounting the aileron. The sketch shows the outboard aileron pivot asseably as it will Took later when installed on the main wing shear web. Although not shown, at that. time, the aileron slot foam core and aiieron trailing édge foam core wiTl be trimmed so that C510 will Fit flush against the main wing shear web Take a piece of QCSMI and make to 1.8" length: pieces to use as aiteron reducers. Asawcut and Perhaps some light sanding will be necessary to make then fit snugly and flush with the inboard tends of the two ailerons Find the phenol ic bearings C86 (2) and ¢S7 (2) Dull the phenot ic conpietely with sandpaper except inside the reamed 5/8" dianeter holes. Be sure that the other 1/2" diameter holes have been drilled out. These are non-critical on dianeter, but must be there to assist Bonding of the phenolic to the structure. They are NOT Tightening holes. Find gacsaa (2). “Wake CSi1 (2) from 0.625" 0,0. x Q056" wall 4130 steel tubing, The length of S11, which can be critical for disassembly, should be about 3/4" less than half the width of the fuselage et the afteron torque tube (C53)/ fuselage junction. The right and left aileron mountings are mnirror images of one another. Each aileron has an outboard hinge (CS10), an’ inboard hinge (C56), and a center fuselage hinge (C37). The Q2CSA4 slips over a CSi1, which passes through the CS6 Phenol ic and slips into the aileron reducer, which {mounted on the inboard and of the’ afleron PAGE 9-6F3L-L4 Koo bi hileren ALLELON UPPER COMNECT ASSEMBLY DEAWING Front View Looking Aft Right Sicke Stantar ) [CONTINUED ON_NE Leth LE Length Outside Fiseloge Contour Line An3LdA PAGE 9-7MAIN WEN AERO (yp) Sk leeer rare wear $F “ AILERON (MAIN WING CLEARANCE” hen the complete aileron assembly fits well, and rotates freely, mix up sone SMIN with flox and tenporaily mount. CS10, (56, and CS7 in place against. the main wing shear web, again checking for alignnent, clearances, and binding. If you haven't already done so, repeat for the other aileron. Renove al of the pieces except S10, C36, and ($7. Carefully lay up the 81D cloth ‘that permanently holds CS10, CS6, and CS7 in place. These parts must'be solidly ‘mounted so that they cannot be accidentally broken off while in service. Once the laminations in step 7 have cured, you are ready to drill in the aileron assem blies. Find your aileron rigging template, reassenble everything and set the ailerons at 0 degrees. Also, the “ear” on each AZCSAA should point “forward and be parralTel toa WL. Verify that the aileron is pushed outboard against C510. Yerify that CSLL overlaps 1.0" into AZCSA4 and’1.8" into the aileron reducer. Now drill in very carefully the two bolts on each side that fasten Q2CSA4, CSI1, and C$9/aileron reduce together. 3é'CAREFL!” Don't Tet the holes elongate; use 2 small drill and work up in Aileran Sht Feom Core CSE INSTALLAT, Cooking Outboard From Fuselage ) CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGE PAGE 9-8Mon Wing Shear Webs Faw a / Vip Bott Vip Bore / £2 810 70P ¢ Bor7om CST INSTALLATION Gide View) {00 Al -styrne Foam Carve shape qr Mote Round 1 SECTION | i | 1 BID Wrap NM Corner LOX Bond (Typ) | ail the way oreund 657 t INSTALLING THE MALN ING TRADLING EOGE cones “hase coras bogtt sv the outboard end ot each cé10, and run outboard torine mainwingeip,_ then origineiiy fot wired, they were made Tanger’ than necescary nthe ‘boord ends’ sy Fit ecch one tno position and erin nay he excess The bonding and Teninating process is very siniTar to whit you have accom Tahed revigusly on the siteron Slot eam cores. Attaeh the cores co the main wind with avero slurry on the cores, snd epony on the" meta wing shear web’ (Fenenbaring’ fo resove the peel oly), Taking’ sure that the top ond Sutton surfaces rakes Eraneition to the eatn wing curvature. Next, Tninate’2"BID on the Tower suttace of the main wind Eraiting edge cores’ overlapping. onto the nein wing ores a'mininun OF i's When curedy Tantrate 2 BID on fhe top surfaces. using a'ghasstocglosstraiting. edge treatment enact’) 1ike"you-c1d on the afterany if yeu are careful. you may be able to accompT Tah the. Laninat- tons withthe wing Sigged verticeliye to save: tines however, bevare of efony runoff yletcing, dey Yemination Anvaltefnative method woud be to-do ech surface an the Tat) insteed gem Tae FB6P A a Morn tdirg ' Shear be £340 Alleroxy Shot Foany I Core Caboard of 2510) ' # Gorton End of Ply Styrene Bon pale” oD "7 wenn Shot 7a OQ INSTALLATION Fox Sond Cyps ete) Marg bhi Shoo heb [1 BIO Litter Side r. psig) LAP ONT , OTH SHEAR WEB | eee SECTION C-C Finally, make the aiteron spacer, which has a nominal 1.0" length. This spacer should be sized lengthwise to alton the aileron to have a lateral freeplay (ie. inboard to outboard) oF about 0.08". Assenble each aileron, and again check for binding, mise igrment, or excessive Freeptay. Note the attachnent of each CS10 wedged between the nein wing trailing edge core and the eileron stot foam core. The main wing tips are carved and glassed Tater on, as an option, Trailing Ea Afler Bowtc! FY She Bom Core! Lumaeg £iOx tee CSlO L&ID Tap F Sotto SECTION DOD CCSME Stud Mae —— Main a Failiag Eaipe Core BensAaD OF HAPTER Gooking Enboard) PAGE 9-9CANARD CONSTRUCTION INTRODUCTION The OZ canard has a swept leading edge, swept trailing edge, anhedral, 2 plain elevator which also effectively serves as a’flap, and, in addition to carrying about 68% of the aircraft's weight, also Provides the energy absorption (1.e. "spring*) for the main landing gear that is mounted at the canard tips. It is a sandwich composite structure with solid foan’core, two layers of UNI at 45 degrees to the trailing edge of the canard for torsional stiffness and surface durability, and spanwise tapes of UNI for ending strength. Shear loads are taken by a vertical shear web, and the elevators are essentially full- span, being actuated by an aluminum torque tube. The canard is constructed in one piece froa tip to tip for strength, lightness, and ease of construction. Because of these factors, ‘the canard is more complex and more critical than the main wing. However, the basic procedures are {dentical, and the experience ‘you have gained in conpleting the main wing for your (2 should alton you to construct the canard in the same anount of tine. You may wish to reread the chapter on the MAIN WINS to review the procedures. CUTTING THE SPAR CAPS Begin by cutting the UNI spar caps using the suggested Tayout on this page. Letter each one of then with a felt tipped marker for identification later, in addition to marking a centerline in the iddlé («here the cap will cross BLOO when installed fon the canard. Be sure to carefully roll up and store the spar caps after cutting 20 prevent damage. GLASSING THE ELEVATOR SLOT FOAM CORE SLOTS “> Construction begins by glassing the inside slot of the elevator slot foam cores with 2 BID at 45 degrees to the spanwise direction (i.e. T.E.), Knife ‘trim to the edge of the foam core. Next, get out your hot-wire cutting equipment and set it up: Teke the forward part of each canard core templates, and nail then back onto the already hot~ wired cores, being sure to check the level Tines and to wetght down the cores. Then, hotcwire the 51-A-8-C- H-I-J-88 sections on all canard Foam cores. Store the elevator slot foam cores for later use. Elevator Slot 2 0 at 45° % Spanuise Hirection ELEVATOL SLOT FOAM Coee ZIMSIDE LAMINATION 1 IL f i 1 i 1 I Ht 1 ! 1 | |}! | 1 | 1 1 | | 1 | 1 r ud CAMAED SPAR cAP_curring |® ZAOUT 1 1 1 It 1 I i 1 i I Mer Were Cor DreeeTIOn Elevator Stet Conard Core, Mot Wire Cothing Stick Alece~ Do wor THROW AWAY PAGE 10-1SJEGSING THE CANARD | Next, you will need to jig the canard cores on the Jig table. “Tt would probably be a good idea to clean off the jig table of any bondo chips, wood, epoxy, etc., so that you start with a clean surface. Find the canard core feale jigging templates (6) Now study the sketches. The canard cores are Jagged upside down on the jigging table using the canard core fenale jigging tenplates. If your table is ‘ot at least 200 inches long, you will have to extend it ike you did on jigging the main wing. AS on the main wing, the shear web is perpendicular to W.00, and the canard core fenate jigging templates have leading and trailing edges that are tangent, respectively, with the leading edges of the canard, and the canard ‘Shear web. Begin by drawing a straight Tine along your Jigging table and marking the locations (BL's) of the canard core female jigging templates. Next, tenporarily set the caharé core female jigging texplates on ‘the jigging table'so that their trailing edges are the distances from the straight line, called out in the accompanying illustrations. Note that the outboard canard core female jigging teuplates (the ones at 6L100 Fight and GL1O0 Teft) are right on the straight Tine. A string stretched spanwise with a weight attached at either end may be helpful in establishing and keeping the straight Tine. Now begin to trial fit the five canard cores into position. Be careful in handling the foan cores to prevent damage to the foam. All cores may have to be sanded in order to make them it together within the naxinun tolerance of 1/16". The canard center section ore is already beveled to compensate for the anhedral angle, but it may still have to be trimmed and sanded to obiéain the fit on the Joint within 1/16". The Jevel Tines on all cores mst remain level at all times. This is important, so take your time, Stand back and sight spanwise aiong the canard to verify that the canard is straight, and is not bowed or kinked. Verify that the Teading edges are straight, and that the trailing edges are straight also. Don't be concerned if the canard core female Jigg- ing templates need to be moved inboard or outboard to remove any bows or kinks. Also, a long straight edge wilT help you looking for kinks 'and joggies, or dips. Conard Core Tig Famplote Onpice Cp ces) 2x4 Linke to ertend Beik Bo cite. Cozard Tagging Temp lote Cine Ba te obhoch) fu (L) 20" oveser @ ase" oreser 38" onser @ linen everything is perfect, mix up some bondo and carefully bondo the canard core fenale Jigging templates to the table top in the necessary location. Next, rest the canard cores on thé canard core female igging templates. Check the alignment and individual evel Tines again; then again and again until every thing is Perfect, with a capital P. The next step is to Join the foam’cores together with micro slurry after verifying that the core f1t is within 1/16". Check, recheck, and re-recheck each core level Tine and alignnent as the cores are joined. Note that the canard center section foam core gets @ glass rib of 2 BID and flox corners at each end of the canard center section foam core. The flox corner should be added after the entire series of canard cores have been joined and cured, CAUTION The canard foan cores aust fit within 1/16" or exotherm danage may result. Core preparation is the single most important factor in obtaining an accurate, strong, and 1ight- weight canard, so don't hurry through this. section unless you don't mind regretting it for years to cone. PREPARING THE CANARD CORES FOR GLASSING AE tits pole, the canard cofes Should be Sigged on your $igging table Upsice dom, S-rinuted and Bondows In place, and sbie to cake e direct hie fron 2°86 res howitzer’ without budgtng fron its Tocation, Use'a hard’ block to clean up ait’ Josglesy excess sicroy and any binps on the conare cores.” At either tnd of the canard center section corey round the Joint So that the glass will Fon smoothly across the Janne, At the 'T.E. {shear web), round the Corner so thatthe Glass wilt lw snooty dow the face"of he shear we. This fs your last chance to do it right, so spend at least another hour making these cores as perfect 25 you know how. While your at it, check, recheck, ‘and re-recheck all’ the canard level lines that you'can see until you can do it in your sleep. If you are not proud of everything sitting on that jig table, don't ‘go on to the next step until_you are: Conard Cores Figged Dpside Down Tig Table FRONT VIEW DE VLEW glossing boMem conarel and Arning canard over. SECTION. PAGE 10-2STAR CAPS’ @) 17 «Z00" @ 16° xZ00" O17 *160" @ L4°«120" © 13°» 70" @1z«6o SAR APS! © 18% Z00" @ 13x 120" @ 12"« 100" Q@17'"200" @ 11 « 90" @ £6200" © yor 70" Q15°l80" @ 9" x60" @©14"*190" © e420" PAGE 10-3,LAMINATING THE BOTTOM SKIN AND BOTTOM SPAR CAPS Study, the-two_sketches Tabed "Botton Canard Lamination", and "Top Canard Lamination" very carefully. im this section, you will only be doing the "sotton Canard Lamination", but that one shoul keep you and two others busy for about 3 hours. (The. third ‘individual mixes epoxy white the other two do, the Tantnation). "fo summarize the lamination, first you wil? Jaminate the wing skin, which f3'2 plies of UNI at 45 degrees to the canard shear web, and then you wiT1 Vaninate spar caps A thru’, Organize your shop for the big Tayup. Measure the canard cores, and cut, the UN! for the main wing sking, labeling each one for identification. father than have you reread and use the section on “Laninating the Botton Skin and Bottom spar Caps” that you used for the main wing, We are going to reprint and rewrite it heres Cit helps make the plans Took more complex): The firse UNI ply {3 put on at 45 degrees to. the canard shear web TE, the Fibers must be straight, s0 take your tine getting the wrinkles and Kinks out. Don't get ahead of yourself on pouring micro. slurry on the foam; otherw{se, by the Pine you ave ready to place the UNI over-a particular area, you will have a messy, hard, lunp of slurry. On the other hand, with the experience you have had on the main wing, you should be within 108 of the mixinun laminating Speed that you Will ever obtetn. "Work with one piece of cloth at 2 Tine, and with anal} batches of slurry and epoxy. Unroiting the UAT cloth as needed 15 advised to reduce the avkwardness of the Terge pieces. Scrap UNI can be used 20 Fill in any snail spots not covered by the Targe pteces of UNI. ‘A lthe Teading edge of the canard cores, et. the UNE cToth hang down vertically. Trin to within I" of the tangent pointy Just like you did on the main wing. At the trailing edge (T-£.), allow the cloth to’ drape around the corner and dowh to. the botton of ‘the shear web 50 that the UNI is at 4 degrees to’ the TE, on that face aTso,_ Trin the canard tip UNL to within ¥" or the canard core. io 'overtap 13 required on the UNI wing skins Just use a butt Joint, ‘The second ply of UNI ts also place at 45 degrees to the TaEs of the canard core, but tn the other direction from the first ply, so that the two plies of GMT wilt have thetr major Fiber orientations. at 30 degrees #9 each other Try to avold having the butt Soints fron the First ply of UAl coincide with the Butt joints from the second ply of UNI. The second ply of UNI fs also draped’ around. the corner and. down fo’ the botton of the shear web, 30 that the shear web fas two plies of UN at a5 degrees to the T.E. and at 80 degrees to each other. Trin ail edges Tike you did an the first ply. As. good laninators you will, of course, squeegee to the nth degree to Yenove any excess epoxy. By this tine, If your fToor does, not contain enough hardened epory to bulld the Q3,, you are either very accurate at mixing epoxy, or else’ you are not working hard enough at squeegee'ing off excess epony, Spar caps A thru Fare laninated in that order, with the widest caps. going on first, To pick up @ Spar eap.and place ftvon the canard: use three people. lintTe one: person holds each end o* the spar cap. the third renoves any frazzies, being careful not to reduce the width below what is called out for the particular Spar cap. That third person then stands at BL00 and positions the spar cabin the proper: locaton. (center Vine on BLO0 and proper distance fron the Teading edge of the canard) while the other. two. individuals Keep the cloth off of the foam s0 that it won't stick hen the center (third) person 1s ready, one of the ‘Individuals holding an end tays it. down spanwise on the eanard in the proper poston (in relation to the canard L.E.) and renoves any wrinkles and kinks. This can be a siow process, so keep your cool. Then the individual on the other end does Tikewise. The center individual makes sure that the spar cap sioothly "turns the corner on efther end of the canard center section ‘Squeegee each spar cap from BLOO outboard. Mork out any wrinkles by pulling carefully on the Fibers. PAGE 10-4 The remaining. spar caps ere each put on in a simiiar fashions “Although you may be getting tired, Jou mist rise up to the occasion and-concentrate on ‘Gueaging each spar cap well to avold excess epoxy bleh tence encosswefaht, Ube extra sony very Sparingly.on.the last sper cap. Every other soar cap ees"Ry'ce'ey etee) s2 allowed to drape over the TE. nd dow’ the: shear web to the bottom. Trim B, Dy Fy te. oF the Toe Setore quitting, peel ply all Joints, and the First two inches of the canard LE... Als®, knife Eri the Lies at the tangent point, ust Tike you did Gn the main ing. Finally, clean up the ness, and Bon'? TOUCH THE CANARD FOR'AT LERST” 24 HOURS. NOTE If you have room, and can be patient, it would be better to permit the botton main wing lamination to cure for 48 hours plus. In the meantime, you could skip ahead and work on fuel system, canopy installat~ jon, ete. INSTALLING THE CANARD STIFFENER build a Framework out of scrap lumber and bondo to hold the canaré Jigged in place while you turn it As shown in the pictures in the MAIN WING jer in the “Laminating The Top Skin And Top Spar Section, we suggest that the lumber run fron tip to tip with afew cross pieces. Don't get fancy, just tie everything together so that the main wing won't Next, when you are sure of your Tose the'canard core female jigging templates with 2 hammer (they won't be needed again), and turn the canard over so that the unglassed cores are upward. Set the canard on the jigging table once again. Check the canard tip level Tines. Jig, and shim, and bondo until the canard tip level Tines are absolut ely perfect; almost, or maybe, doesn't count. Then use bondo to secure all of the jigging so that a jack- hammer will be required to remove the canard from the Staging table. ‘You are now ready to install the canard stiffener. That stiffener runs along the top of the inboard canard foam cores and across the canard center section core. This foan stiffener that you previously hot Wired out of the canard cores will be flimsy, so be careful with it. Clean up the canard slot that the stiffener vests in with a hard block and sand paper. so that the Tanination you will be doing will trans~ verse the Joints snaathiy. The glass ribs at either fend of the canard center section will have to be trimmed back so as not to interfer with the stiffener. The lamination schedule, as called out in the sketch, is to layup 1 UNI first, then 2 BID, and then 1 UN fon top for the final ply. Take your tine, and make the Fibers straight. The 2 BID are laminated at 65 degrees 20 the spanwise direction. Knife trim the Vamination flush with the top surface of the canard cores. and Tet the lamination cure. Next, install the foam stiffener with micro slurry. It is best to dry fit the part first, since it may be necessary to do’ sone trimming, or else use dry micro to obtain a smooth Fit. Don't worry if the top of the foam stiffener projects above the top canard surface a small anount; this can be trimmed back after cure. Once the foam stiffener installation has cured, dig out the foam as shown and install two flox corners. Flush with the top canard surface. Also, install the Fiox corners on either end of the canard center, section core, framework break UED ON NEXT PAGEFoam Sh hlenr Kaihe Fim CANAD CORE Lommnahe @ Phes LONE Frese i 2 80 wexr (at-g5*) 2 OwE FiWAey OAM STIFFENER LAMINATION Fox 2 ey gee 3p Conard Skin O54, Livia! & Be es F ce! Foam foam Sflener Lamination ee ZLEFL MSTA: OM Fe Skin § Spar Cops “Cooke Sreund en PREPARING THE TOP CANARD FOAM CORES FOR GLASSING Sa peer HE the leading edge, feather the botton skin toa feather edge at the ‘tangent point Just like you did on the main wing. Prepare the canard top Surface just, like you did the canard bottom sur face. (See *Preparing The Canard Cores For Glassing"). Be sure and spend time carefully saoothing aut. the canard stiffener area, and the Flox corners on either end of the center section core. Renenber that the flox corners are much harder than the foam surrounding them, so 90 easy. You mist reaTly prepare the top canard sur= face well, and remove all bunps, joggles, and other irregularities 1f you want a pretty looking, Lightweight canard on your aircraft. — REMENBERY If you are not satisfied with how the canard top surface foam cores Took, Don't go on to the next step LAMINATING THE TOP SKIN AND ToP_sonR caps Vast to BE sures chovk the canard tip level 5 Unes one tore: timer and shin fo get both of then Botton Skin # Spar Caps absolutely Tevel. (Have you noticed how they seem Coote wrap oreund onto torshist by osmosis?) Shear wee) The top canard skins are Tanfnated stetlarly to the bottom skin Tanination. The skin ts the fone fo UNI at 45 degrees to’ the Tess draping aver the Tre. down to'the botton of thé shear seb, and’ the spar caps are ©. thru@ this tine’ Rt the leading edge of the main wing, overlap the bottom skin with the top sein sininan of Irs fetter than let all the sper caps drape over the “Er and domn the shear web, trin every other one off at the Tie.” Poel ly the shest web and all Soints. Dante touch the canard for at least 48 hours. Before removing the lunber, bonds a fevel Board 28 shout midspan on exch cinarde ou tow deserve to celebrate for two days seratghts you have just Finished the Fine) Rado isyup'tn your airerafts By the nay. thet top Canard lamination that you just completed was the ost difficult and critfen) Torination in the whe Sirera?ty and yet we have. such Cont dence. you St'ehis pomne, shat we omy devoted 9 very few words torte. SHEAR WEB LAMINATION PAGE 10-5INSTALLING THE ELEVATOR SLOT FOAM CORES This Step is critical to having a nice looking canard and elevator union, so follow the directions carefully. To start out with, the elevator slot foam cores that you hot-wired way back when were pur- osely made Tonger than necessary. Your first. task js to size then for the correct tength. To do this, you must measure your fuselage width at the fuselage/elevator slot foam core junction. Take measurements of the canard, skip ahead to the sec- ‘tion on “Mounting The Canard To The Fuselage™, and determine that dimension, on either side of B00. Mark the proper points of the canard. Wait to trim the inboard elevator slot foam cores until after they have been installed on the canard. Next, determine where to trim the outboard elevator stot foam cores. Since each elevator was made 72" long, measure 6 feet plus 1 inch (For elevator/fuselage clearance) from your first mark outboard and place another mark. This 1s where tthe outboard elevator slot foam core will be trinm= ed, but, as before, wait until after installation to'do f F The elevator slot foam cores are unique in that both the brake Tine conduit and the pitot tube must run through the Tower, forward edge as shown on the skatch. The pitot tube runs out the right canard, exits at about 8140, and is shaped as shown. In the right canard, the brake line conduit enters ‘the inboard end of the elevator slat foam core within 1/2" of the top edge, and continues all the way outboard to the end of the outboard elevator slot foam core on the right side of the aircraft. Let the Nylaflow tubing extend about 4" beyond the end of the slot foan core. On the Teft canard, do the sane routing. You should use @ router bit in the drenel to route out the foam. Any extra "room" in the foam is Filled with dry micro. Both the brake Tine conduit ‘and pitot tube are installed with 5-NIN dabs to hold then! in place, and then surrounded with dry micro, as shown. Keep both lines, but particularly the brake Tine conduit, as straight as practical. "The pitot tube tubing should extend into the fuselage about 12". The elevator slot foam cores are installed to the canard shear web with micro-slurry on the foam cores ‘and epoxy on the shear web (don't forget. to renave the Peel Ply!), plus a few dabs of S-NIN to keep the two attached during cure. it is easier to check clearances top and bottom if the canard is jigged vertically on the Jig table. This will also keep the joint from run- ining. By this time, you should be so good at Jigging, that we won't even talk about how to do it. ‘The important point to renenber is that at the shear web attach point along the span, the top and bottom of the elevator slot foam cores should flow snoothly into the top and bottom surfaces of the canard, respectively. If the elevator slot foam cores want to stick up a Tittle bit, this is OK since that can be sanded later. Any dip, how ever, will have to be filled with micro. When you have’done your best to carefully fit the shear web Joint top and bottom then mix up the micro-slurry land epoxy and join the elevator slot foam cores to the canard, Once the attachment has cured, then the fun can begin. Trim the elevator slot foam cores back to the "Eventual Trim Line". Next, sand down the "tails" so that you can achieve a iinirum of 0.4" of glass-to-glass bond with the inside Tanination, while at the same tine fairing everything nicely into the canard contour forward of the shear web. At the glass-to-glass bond area, you mst sand away a1] micro and epoxy and get down to the glass. Spend sone tine looking at the surfaces getting the best alignment that you can. When everything is ready, laminate 2 BIO at 49 degrees to the ‘canard shear web on the elevator slot foan cores, being sure to achieve at least 0.4" of glass-to- glass bond, and lapping up onto the canard at Teast 1". ‘Note that the sketch calls out dry-micro #111 if required at the top and botton of the shear web joint, Trim the inboard and outboard elevator slot foam cores at the marks previously made on the canard Your canard should now be Tooking more Vike a canard, and less Vike a Tunp of foam and class. — Ory mitre to fll vob, Micro -shomy bond. Elevator Sht feam Core. eo ‘ane Elevator Lol Ea ope ad at rhis Aire) Glass-to- Chass, Top § Bottom) Mininnorn Bid 2 BID at 45° to Shear Web Top ¢ Bohm) Miylatlow tebing (Pitot hube got sheen) LEVATOR SLOT FOAM CORES ONTO THE CANARD CORE: LUSTALLING CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGE PAGE 10-6,approvinetaly Se Te tN 40D Aluminum Tebing (Piror TOBE) BRAKE LINE CoMOUIT ¢ PITOT TUBE IMSTALLATION OUTBOARD ELEVATOR PIVOT ASSEMBLY ~~ These instructions cover only the assenbly of the left outboard elevator pivot, but the right outboard elevator pivot is a mirror image, and may be accomplished at the sane time. First, review the MAIN WING chapter section on "Outboard Aleron Pivot AésenbTy". Except for ‘the part nunber changes, you will be doing exactly the same operations. Locate a QCSM7 pivot about 0.25" inboard of ‘the outboard end of the elevator using 3 NSP43 cherry rivets spaced radially at Teast 0.4" apart It will be necessary to "tunnel" through ‘the eleva tor skin and elevator foam core in order to reach the CS16 elevator torque tube for riveting. "The holes made dy the tunnel ing operation should be Filled after riveting with dry micro, Find S19, and insert a QCSHS stud with the 2 ANB70-4 washers, 1 ANGEO-4 washer, and 2 AN36S~428 huts, just as you did on the aileron outboard pivot assembly. Remenber, there must be a minimum of 0.6" from the ANI60-6 washer inboard to the end of ‘the QCSMS stud so that the elevator must be moved inboard at least 1/4" before it "falls off” the QCSNS stud for disassembly. Finally, round the end of the QCSHS stud slightly to assist in mount~ ‘ng the elevator. When the elevator is mounted, CS19 wiTl fit flush against the canard shear web. At that tine, ‘tha outboard elevator slot foan core will have to be trinmed to allow tha?. PAGE 10-7, MIDSPAN ELEVATOR PIVOT ASSEMBLY Read this section carefully before doing anything, and take the time to visualize what the words are saying. Otherwise, you may Find it difficult to install ‘or remove your elevators! ‘These instructions will cover the Teft midspan elevator pivot assenbly, out the right midspan elevator pivot assenbly is a mirror inagp. Find @ QCsN3 stud and a QCSM2 pivot. Screw the QCSHG stud into the QCSMZ pivot, retaining it with AN363-2032 locknut, making sure that the assenbly is tiaht. Next, round the end of the QCSM3 stud slightly, as shown, to facilitate installation and removal of the elevator Tater, Measure 30" outboard on the élevator from the inboard end and place a mark. Using @ router bit, route out a slot 1/8" wide for about plus or minus 17 degree of elevator travel. (See sketch) Next, insert the QCSH2 pivot assenbly, complete with QCSNS stud, inta (S16, the elevator torque tube, with the Stud pointing autboard. — (See sketch) QcSMé pivot assenbly through the CSI6 elevator torque tube with a small diameter stick until it Just reaches flush with the slot that you routed out. Rivet the OCSM2 pivot assenbly to CS16 using 3 WSPA3 cherry rivets spaced radially at Teast 0.4" apart. Again, it will be necessary to "tunnel" through the elevator skin and the elevator foam core to reach the tube. Again, you will f{11 the holes with dry micro. The routed slot must be expanded so that the CS17 hinge can sTide off of the QCS¥3 stud and out, of the CSi6 elevator torque tube while remaining Perpendicular to CSi6. This is to allow assembly and dissassenbly of the elevator. Probably, you. will have to open the routed slot up to about 0.6" wide. Rt the same tine, verify that the CS17 hinge can rotate at least 17 degrees up and down to allow proper elevator moyenent. If noty make the routed slot bigger, as necessary. It is_inport- ant, however, not to rémove any more "meat” from the CS16 elevator torque tube than necessary, so work carefully. Now we come to the 2 CSIB inserts. These inserts are positioned against the canard shear web ‘on either side of the CSI7 hinge, and provide 2 Vocal beefup to take the hinge Toads. ‘To deter ine exactly which BL the CSI8 inserts must go. at you will need to trial fit the elevator in posit: ion in the elevator slot foam core, making sure ‘that the inboard end of the elevator coincides with the inboard ond of the elevator Slot. foan core that you have previously trismed to fit the Fuselage. CONTINUED OW NEXT PREEith the CS17 hinge mounted on the elevator up against the end of the QCSN2 pivot, and with the elevator in position in the elevator slot foar core, you can mark on the elevator slot foan core where the 2 CSI8 inserts mist go. Next, route out ‘the foam in the elevator slot foam core’ in prepara~ tion for later bonding of the CSI8 inserts in place. Any excess foam removed can be filled in later with Shear Web CAWARD Flox during assenbly. Now, let's carefully review how the elevator is removed from the midspan elevator pivot. The elevator is moved inboard, resting on the QCSMS MSPS Cherry Bivek / Toonel (Typ 3 places ) Stud, at least 4" until it falls off the QCSWS stud. During this movement, the CS17 hinge remains where it was, since it was'permanently attached to the canard’ (between a sandwich of CS18 inserts) during assent Le bly. Li i Lreivehor Do you understand? Good, read the above explanation again two times until it 1s indelibly etched in your menory. Now you are ready to do the sane thing for the right elevator. Renenber that the QcSM2 pivot assenbly, complete with QCSM3 stud, must be pushed into the 'CS16 elevator torque tube with the stud pointing OUTBOARD. (A mirror image of what you have already done). Be very careful in setting up the right madspan elevator pivot assembly, and verify that it, too, will function as described in bh the paragraph above: Tt may Sean that we are spending too much tine on this setup, but it is the "voice of experience speaking". =~ Bene Lue Coupuir i cawaeD | | Clearance wT" QCSMA Gusting DCSE STUD DVBOARD —S Note: LY7° Copou# far Elevator cslé levator SECTION AA C518 insert Gootbaard), OCSM2, MSPA3 Eive 45, § LE of C5le dad Elevate omibted for clority. 4 Elevator £ VATOR MIDSPAN PIVOT DETAIL Cosking Lnboord) INSTALLATION OF THE ELEVATORS The elevators are installed and rigged prior to the canard being mated to the fuselage. As a result, after mating only C813 needs to be hooked up for a functioning pitch contral. system, The procedures detatled here are similar in scope to what you have already accanpl ished in mounting the ailerons’ on the main wing, except that the elevators, have a center pivot on each side. Begin by jigging the canard’ vertically, with the Jeading edge at the table. Take 2 piece of QCSMi and make to 1.8" length pieces to use as elevator reducers. A sawcut and perhaps some Tight sanding will be necessary to make them Fit snugly and flush with the inboard ends of the tvo elevators. Find the phenolic bearings ¢S15 (2) and CS14 (1: Dull the phenolic completely with sandpaper except inside the reamed 5/8" diameter holes. Be sure that the other 1/2" diameter holes have been drilTed out. These are non-critical on diameter, but must be there to assist bonding of the phenolic to the structure. They are NOT Tightening holes. PAGE 10-8 Find Q2CSAB. Make C$20 from 0.625" 0.0. x 0.068" wall 4130 steel tubing. ‘The Tength of S20 should be about 5" longer than 1/2 the width of the fuselage where the elevator matches up to the fuselage. The Piece is made Tong initially, and then trimmed back as The right and Teft elevators are nearly mirror mages of one another. Each elevator has an outboard hinge CS19, 2 midspan hinge CS17, and a inboard hinge C515. Q2CSAB Slips into the elevator reducer at the elevator end, and over a AN271-D2 (or NS2071-08) universal joint near BLOO. On the right side, CS20 Slips into the elevator réducer at the elevator end, and through C§14 and then over the sane AN271-B8 (or MS20271-88) universal joint near BLOD. Clear, heh? The following procedure was developed to help you get the elevators mounted without binging, with the Proper clearances, and with the ability to get them off again: TINUED ON NEXT PAGEANIFO-3 CL084P Koon YTD DOL, ‘ 4130 Stee/ Spacer Lew AA CANAED REES3EG AEF Face| 26 Cunen SHEA Whee. [Pett Ree Eve See "Tet Sesren Sécriar/ Fak KO Feernce Deru \ AE! F836) Fur PACE OF FUEL Tarte LOE WEW + Trim the inboard edges of the elevator slot foam cores flush with the sides of the fuselage. Slip CS15 over the outboard end of Q2CSAB, the Universal joint into the inboard end of Q2CSAB, and then the outboard end of the QZCSAB assenbly into the elevator reducer mounted in the inboard against outboard and of elevator slot foam core, C517 at the midspan slot, CS15 against the inboard end of the elevator slot foan core, and €S14 against the shear web near BLI Righ' check for binding. Working slowly, correct any snce problem (1/16" MIN elevator The arm on Q2csAs should be at approximately BLO0. reix up sone 5 ‘and tenporarily mount CS19, C315, and C514, (DO NOT mount the CS17*s). |. Renove 211 of the pieces except $19, CS15, and csi4. of 1/16" top and bottom permanently mount CS17 and the Cs1a's with wet ly pack the into the holes so that you get very good squeeze out, and not trapped air. If the Tox doesn't ooze out when CS17 and CS18's: are pushed into place, then you haven't got. ‘enough fox pushed into, the holes. Use tape in the 1/16" eleva~ Obviously, be carefit that the excess flox does CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGE, PAGE 10-9Romp Graer~ C514 4 fi pu0o _ 2 4 Linn 77) ae | tH “faselage Sides : 1 | Aon esl? Fax 7 A SECTION AA to KEP 5326 der Face 4 Or Cussed SHEN Wee 7 i Tian, ‘S/S Foe Bouente, ecace | Swe CS6 Ape, Faces DUM Wil CHAPTER) wk1/-88 (oe levator Spacer MS 2027-88) 18" Length Mminal Ve B Lem th not interfere with the elevator movenent, of ond the elevator to the shear web. If you previously renoved the top and botton canard where the slot was ground out, be sure to ate 2 BID top and bottom once’the Taminat~ ons have cured. The above procedures are used with both elevators. REF! PBSC) Pub Pace OF FUEL TAME Zi ZOP VIEW 8. Once the laminations and installation have cured, you are ready to drill in the elevator POST-CURING THE CANARD STRUCTURE Find your elevator rigging template, ‘order to mininize creep in the canard, the can- fone tine, you can elect to just shoot sone black primer ard should be post-cured prior to installing it on the on the canard, and clean it off Tater. Tt is inportant aircraft, ‘to remenber that when you attach the canard to the pushed outboard against CS19. Creep is the tendency for the epoxy to deform due fuselage later, wherever the BID tapes that secure the into’the to heat and Toad. In the case of your aircraft, the canard to the fuselage attach to the canard, the canard ‘be objained on a hot. da rust be free of any paint, micro, feather fill, etc.s ‘in the sun, and the 103 fu fucture: raft is resting on its want to use black fs that it ing through this means 1s both benaing and torsional thas vats in nature. Creep can be minimized by heating the structure to ‘the palm of your hand on several Tocat ions, in equal results by painting the canard black TF you can hold your hand on the surface for about 5 9. imer and setting it in the bright sun to effect seconds without Screaming out in pain, the temperature excessive Freeplay. is perfect. Permit the canard to set at that tenperature for about 10 minutes GET_100 HOT. Te is fot necessary to post-cure any other structure on your aircraft. END OF CHAPTER (00 NOT PERMIT THE CANARD TO PAGE 10-10WHEEL PANT/TIRE/WHEEL/BRAKE ASSEMBLY NTRODUCTION “Tn this chapter, you will make one Teft wheel pant. and one right wheel pant, complete with wheel, tire, and brake assenbt ies The wheel pants are composite structural shapes that must transfer all landing gear Toads into the can= ard. Therefore, they are made much stronger than the ordinary cosmetic type wheel pants found an many honebuilts. There 1s sone carving required, but you whould find it straight Forward. BASIC _ASSENBLY Begin by making two Wheel Pant cores (L61) and four Wheel Pant Covers (L62). The procedures that follow cover assenbling the left wheel pant. Since ‘the right wheel pant is a mirror Image of the left wheel pant, you will probably Find 7 easy to assenble oth wheel ‘pants. simi taneously Join L61 to LG2 with micro-siurry. The template sketch for LGI shows the outline of L62; basically, LG2 covers up the hole in L81. You may need to use some weight to hold L62 to LG1 until they are cured, Once, the combination has cured, lay it face down on the table with LG2 against the table. Laminate the plies shown in the sketch 7 Ay owe STE FEWER Gee Dera) kone Trent 26m Tang 241 ¢l62: Tie Tee al TAMING £61662 Now, you are ready to'flag the UNI stiffener over the future location of the LG} inserts. The stiffener Tocation is shown on the LG2 tenplate drawing. ° Begin with a piece of UNI cloth 14" x 7" with the fiber orientation along the 7” edge. Flag the piece 7 tines along the 7" edge (i.e. every 2"). Flagging consists of the following procedure Fold the cloth over on it Wet out the cloth. Ligntly run a new razor blade across the bubate at. the edge. Stipple the cloth down. Repeat steps 1-4 as many tines as needed. (7 times) FlacGeD UNI STIFFEVER Deevrarins QLD Pace Powe pArT Aeon we) Porvwe Location Led Inseer INE STIFFY AWARD LAMIMATION. Prorrerrron revere Tie TABLE- Lomase BRAC deme Wincel Purr Tisceo nite the layup 1s curing, take a second L62 and layup two BID on the inside face (i.e.) the face that will be inside the LGT cutout when ii is attached. Roughly trim the glass so that it doesn't beyond the edges of L62, but don't be con trim somewhat inside the edges. Flag a UNI stiffener to this LG2 just like you did with the other LG2, Fewenbering that the stiffener is on the side of L62 that will be inside the LSL cutout when LO2 is joined to Lol. Unie the second LG2 layup fs sti7 tacky, join the second LG2 to LG1 with micro. Now, layup to BID tapes on the inside to Join the LG2 glass layup to the LG1 glass, as shown At this point, you should have a sandwich, with fone LGl as the core, one LEZ as the outboard face, and one LG2 as the inboard face. Allow the assenbly to cure, Zab Comer TAPES £6 102610 Iusié Face) ONE STIFFENER Car) TOWING 6G/-4LE2 {LE 2 Next, the two L64 inserts sust be bonded into Position’ “Renave white foan fron the outside of each U2 down to the inside glass layup in the areas on the UG2 tenplate drawings which denote the LG4 inserss Vocations. Then use micro to bond in the LG} inserts. After these layups are cured, drill in the pilot holes for the axle with a tong 1/4" drilt. To do this, with the wheel pant laying Flat on the table, dri 1] through both faces, keeping the driIT perpindicular to the pant. MOUNTING THE KEEL pANT ‘The conpleted canard should be jigged upside down. Basically, each wheel pant is Jigged in place using lumber for bracing, then the toe~in and canber is checked, which usually necessitates sone adjustment to ‘the Tunber bracing. hen everything ts Jigged properly, S-IN blobs are used to attach the pant to the canard and a piece of lumber is attached between the LGM insert and the canard so that the assembly wil) not nove Begin by rigging the wheel pant in the approximate position. The wheel pant slips into place against. the canard shear web and canard bottom skin, Since the canard Surface 1s angling upward as fixed to the Sigging table, and since the vertical faces of the wheel pant. should be vertical, some beveling of the pant where it fits against the canard is necessary. The bevel {s approximately 1 to 10. Note that the LGl core is sized to fit at 8L93, so don't modify the inboard edge very uch. Once the assenbly ts trimmed, bracing 1s used to keep it firmly fixed. Sight thru the axle Noles, keeping ‘the two holes in the wheel pant concentric (Tike Sighting thru the sights on a gun). Move the whee? Pant until the line of sight approxinately intersects the other canard tip where the axle holes on the wheel pant will be located,” Bondo the lunber in place Next, repeat the operation with the other wheel ant except that now you can actually sight on the ‘opposing wher pant’ axle holes. lad Dieser \ HEEL Pp _Lumace Beacws Be mirine Alea WHEEL PANT RIGGING Qoong AFT, PAGE 1141 CONTINUED OW NEXT PRThe objective is to be able to sight through each Wheel pant and see the other wheel pant axle hole Tined up in the "sight". The process is iterative unti1 you can confirm that @ bullet fired along the sightline through each wheel pant will go right thru the oppostte Wheel pant axle holes. At this point you have 0 toe-in and Q canber, which 18 what you want. Sone minor trinming of the wheel pant way be necessary so that the wheel pant fits flush against the canard. Remaye the wheel pant and laminate 1 BID along the, top of the wheel pant where it will come into contact with the canard shear web or canard Tower skin upon assembly. Se sure that the match between the wheel pant and canard is good prior to glassing, to avoid using considerable flox to F111 the voids: Peel Ply the tamination. When the lamination is cured, mount the wheel pants with flox to the canard, being sure to achieve good flox squeeze out. (First renoving the peel ply, of course.) Before the joining gets tacky, be sure to recheck and then recheck again the alignnent of the ‘wo wheel pants through the axle holes. tow is your last chance to affect that alignment. When satisfied, use Tunber and 5-NIN to attach the wheel pant to the canard while the flox is curing Next, turn the canard over and jig it right side up, being’careful not to alter the alignment of the wheel pants. You aré now ready for the fun part, contouring ‘the wheel pant! Several tenplates are provided to visualize what you want the finished product to Took like. The tenplates are provided to help, but use your eyeballs to develop a pleasing shape. Some points to venenber are as follows: 1. Use should remain .250" thick 2. A-smalter pant will be Tighter and cleaner Joking, $0 don't 3. The top’canard skin willbe sanded back for After the wheel pant is carved, you are ready to glass the wheel pant.” Layup two BID over the outside Face of the canard. ‘Lap up onto the canard a minimum 1.5" inboard of the contouring, and use a minimum of overlap wherever else you overlap the cloth. After is layup has cured, renove the lunber jigging from the inside face of the wheel pant, roughup the inside face contouring if needed, and then glass. two 81D on the inside face, ‘iso, another Flagged UNI stiffener wiTl have to be laid up on each LG, using the sane technique as you did earlier. Check the Pop FisQace Ftox See Lowe3e Keovee buss DETAIL, TE evcvEr (REFERENCE) Set Thuwneee Darneared Deran, aMILMHEEL_INSTALLATION ‘Once the taiTspring has been installed in the fuselage permanently, then you are ready to install the tailwheel . Locate the following parts: QTH3, QTH4, QTH5, QTWML, and the tailwheel. Insert the QTV4 Spacer into the QTW3 weldnent as shown. Trial fit QTWS to the QTV assenbly with a ANS-ZiA bolt, It may be necessary ‘to sand QTW3 in order to allow a smal? amount of, vertical freeplay between QTK3 and QTWS. Oncé all the parts #it together smoothly, assenble as. shown. Next, mount the tailwhéel to the QTH5 fork as shown, using the QTHH axle and ANS-24A bolt. "The next. task 1s to mount the entire tailwheel assembly to the tailspring. Start by leveling the fuselage TateraTly, and then trial fit QTK3 onto the end of the tailspring. Trim the tailspring if necess~ ary to permit QI to fit, or to obtain the nominal 7” Tength fron the forvard edge of QTW3 to the fuselage. Driit in the single AN3-12A bolt holding QTW3 to the tailspring after making sure that the vertical face of the tatlwhee! is indeed vertical. (Otherwise the tailwhee! will Wear unevenly). To mount the TaiTwheel assembly permanently to tho tailspring, mix up some Flox and obtain good squeeze out of the flox upon assembly of QTW2 to the tailsoring. MEE L IN: ANs124 (a4 Mote: adder cables omitted 1 Be clarty es noe INSTALLATION mOsTReFuder Ringe assenbles are very sinilar to those of the ailerons, so review the section on nounting the aflerons before proceeding further. ‘The upper rudder hinge consists of the 0522 plywood nounty which ss bonded fo the vertical fin core, nd the sone hardware. and VEEings called out. In the iain Wing’ chapter stevion on "Outboard aileron Pivot Kesenbly", 20 follow those directions. “The foner rudder hinge 1s deteiled sn the acconp- anying sketch. "The QCM wateriel ts-used for a 1.0 Tength rudder’ reducer and 8 0.5" length for a rudder Spocer."The rudder reducer 2 pushed nto’ th" eS21 der torque’ tube, C323 {she Tower Tuader phenol fe Bearing. G323 2 bonded tothe vertical fin foan core with Tberal-quanetties of or Generating’ good squevze Gut, G20sAi0 ‘e the rudder belleronky witch ts atcached to és2l with a ANGe1&h bolt Assembly 15 performed by trial and error Fitting of the ruceer, complete mith alt pivoesy to the vertical Finuneil a satisfactory f¥t 4s obtained. The clearance an either side of the vertical fin slot shoutd not be Yess thon 0:08%. The rudder’ should be trimmed top and Botton so that 3 minimum gap between the fuselage and Fudder, and between the rsder top and vertiea’ Fin exists. Wen everything Is realy mix up fl0x and also Sone 5:MIN ond’ ig the rudder nto place and permit. ft to cures Stirring sticks and sone scrap lurber can Be used to hold the rudder tn position AWS2HA Boe? cer ANS-16A Aver Sree Mas*teucrm Cenrneae Tiger Rue 2058/0 Curemie OWER RUDDER HINGE PAGE 14-2,RIGGING THE RUDDER/TAILMHEEL CABLE i sketch on page 14-1 shows the cable layout to actuate the tailwheel and rudder. Note that fron the tudder pedals, the 3/32" cable travels aft through 3/16” Nylaflow tubing fairleads at each bulkhead, exits the fuselage about 10" forward of the tail of the aircraft, and then goes directly to the tailwhee! weldnent, QTHS, where 1t is attached to the outboard hole using a thimble and nicopress sleeve attachnent. The inboard holes on QTWS are used to attach cable (using the same type of attachment) that runs forward to Q2CSA10, the rudder bellcrank, where the cable 1s attached with another thinble and nicopress sleeve arrangenent. The left and right sides are mirror ‘mages. The ¢-69 spring is used between the cables traveling to the rudder, to provide tension on the cables at all times. Cable attachnents should be accomplished with no weight on the tailwheel, and with the rudder and tailwhee! in the neutral position. (Use the rudder rigging template.) It is recommended that the (QTW5-G2CSA10 hookup be acconpished first. Those cables must be as tight as practical. Then, hookup the rudder cables to the outboard holes of TWS. Since there will be a quick disconnect later at the fuselage cut point, just cut enough cable to reach ‘the fuselage cut point. The stop on QTW5 may need to be modified by Filing it back in order to reach ‘the limits of rudder travel indicated on the rudder rigging template. RIGGING THE RUDDER PEDAL CABLE ____ The 3/32" cable 1s attached to the rudder pedal using a cable shackle, thinble and nicopress sleeve, as shown. You may wish to wait until after the Quick disconnect fittings are assenbled at the fuse- Tage cut point, in order to better set up the angle of the rudder pedals. MAIN FUEL_TANK_INSTALLATIOR gree Installed, the main fuel tank also serves as fa support for the legs of the pilot and passenger. The Geometry of the tank was, therefore, laid out to provide Rot only fuel volume, but also adequate support. A fuel drain vaive must first be installed in the bottom fuselage at the approximate Tow point of the fuel as part of the normal preflight checklist. Begin by locating FS45 at BLOO. Draw a 2" diameter circle around that point and contour # depression in the center of the circle that is 1" square and results in a foam thickness of 1/4". A toothpick is useful for gauging depth. Make a smooth transition around the area, Bond in with Flox the 1" x 1" x 1/4" mild steel plate and then laminate 2 B10 over the entire depression overlapping a minimun of 1" onto the inside bottom fuselage skin. ‘Once that lamination has cured, make a ‘done’ from sone aTuninum screen door screen that covers about 2 2.5" dianeter circle, and attach the done to the bottom fuselage over the depression with flox all around the perineter. From underneath’ the fuselage, tap a 1/8" NPT hole into the mild steel plate for the fuel drain valve, which then may be inserted and tightened. Mominurg Screen Door Sereeg “Chive fewn HOD 10035" jan ee Seat - ‘Flox a sechee ee eer eee Fee/ Drain Valve. a sides) Lx Lx 8g" Mild Steel Plate Cap WPT for Vole) PAGE 14-3, CABLE” ATTACHMENT Tie 6 Paces On PTWS f QZCSA/O) AWUS~21 Catue SHACKLE ANSSA Boer RUDDER PEDAL ATTACHMENT Cve 2 reaces) Finally, find a piece of Versatube Aluminum tubing of 1/4" 0.0. and 20" in length and locate it as shown. The tubing pierces the aluminue screen and points forward, being afixed with Tiberal quantities of flog at the duction with the’ sereen.” Be eareful not 2 flex the tubing unnecessarily to prevent Fatigue of the tubing, aaiegumnanelipe The fuel tank must be trimed to fit your fuselage. Refer back to the chapter on Basic Fuselage Assenbly for a sketch showing the fuel tank posttioning. — The Jeading edge of the fuel tank 4s nominally a+ FS36.1s the trailing edge should be at about FS58.1 in order to provide a nominal 6 inches of clearance between the fuel tank and the Seatback Bulkhead. You will find that the sides of the fuel tank need to be trinmed back to allow the fuel tank to sit down against the fuselage botton. Verify that the elevator control rod (S13 does not interfere with the top of the main fuel tank as ft runs forward to the elevator by skipping ahead in this chapter. If it does, you must. trim down ‘the height of the main fuel tank to clear by a minimum of 3/8", or laminate a slot into the fuel tank for this (513 clearance. Baffles are used to prevent excessive sloshing of the fuel within the tank, as well as to increase the stiffness of the fuel tank so that it may be stepped fon during entry and exit from the aircraft, Three baffles are used; one spanwise baffle about 18" wide, and two longitudinal baffles that extend from the landing edge of the fuel tank to within 4 inches of the trailing edge of the fuel tank. The sketches ‘Mlustrate positioning and size. Note that openings are left regularly along the baffles to allow fuel to move back and forth slowly. Particularly note the opening at the top which fs part of the venting system. Those openings should be about. 2 inches in length and about 1" in height, and need not be accurately” shaped. ‘The baffles are fitted using trial and error until they fit both against the fuel tank and also against the fuselage bottom when the tank is inserted into place. Each baffle should have 1 B10 on each side, and the 1/4" thick white foam is used for the core material. Once each baffle is properly trinned, it should be mounted permanently to the fuel, tank with micro and @ 81D tape on either side with a min- ima 1" lapping onto each surface. Upon installation of the fuel tank permanently to the Tuselage, these baffles will be coated liberally with flox so that ‘they bond to the fuselage bottom, CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGE"Loar UDIA AL. Poet Tae. BArrLe Gye) Fue. Thue Ourene AER TRIMMING Che Tae Qurem€ Pewe To Tremmng EL TANK JOP VIEL The fuel gauge consists of @ direct reading float. type mounted near the centerline of the aircraft. Before installing the guage permanently, you should make sure that it wilt not interfere with the elevator Control rod CS13 which runs from the control stick to elevators, ‘A Tength of 1/4" wood dowel obtained from 2 hardware store is bonded with epoxy into a carved urethane foam float nominally 1" dianeter by 1.25" high. This Float assenbly wil? Float up and down with the fuel level. Tt rides inside a clear PVC pipe tube that you will calibrate with marks showing fuel quantity. Sone Points to renenber are that the wood dove! “should extend about 1.5" above the top of the main fuel tank, that the length of the clear PIC pipe 1s governed by the travel of the wood dowel, and that the Float assenbly should be fitted to the fuel tank prior to mounting ‘the fuel tank in the fuselage permanently. CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGE Fen Tue * Hole Ent BAFFLE Z| [Pe Fuge Deming LN AusEcack Borram C1 PAGE 14-4 Sharwise Fore Tae BAFFLE MEL TANS Gre view) WelSE FULL FEL WEu/ A-A Flex FUEL GUAGE (STALLATIONIn order to provide a leakproof seal around the rmain fuel tank after installation, small stiffeners are placed along the fuselage sides so that, when installed, the main fuel tank will set down’on these stiffeners, thus assuring good squeeze out of the Flox and a good’ seal. These stiffeners are navinally of 1/8 square cross section, and made fron the thin sheets of white foam, They are positioned by dry fitting the fuel tank in place, tracing around the main fuel tank on the fuselage side, and then lowering the traced lines the thickness of the'nain fuel tank after removing the tank. The stiffeners are installed with flox, and allowed to cure completely prior to mounting the main fuel ‘tank permanently. Do not be concerned at the umber of Seperate stiffeners required to cover the tank perimeter. To install the main fuel tank permanently, it will first be necessary to notch the forward lover edge of. the main fuel tank at 800 so that the fuel Tine tubing will exit the tank there. Next, mx up both pure epoxy and flox. Paint pure epoxy liberally on al? exposed areas of ‘the stiffeners, to prevent contamination of the fuel Tater. Trough Flox Tiberatly on the top of the stiffeners, as well as on the fuselage botton where. the forward and aft edges of the main fuel tank will rest. lupon assenbly. Next, trough flox around the edges of ‘the main fuel ‘tank that will cone into contact with either the stiffeners or the fuselage. Insert the tank in place, and verify that you have good squeeze out of the flox everywhere to assure 8 good seal. Wipe off the excess flox on the top side as you make a flox radius between the tank and the Tuse- lage. Laminate 2 BID tapes with a 1" minimun overlap ‘to join the man fuel tank to the fuselage. Liberally apply fox around the exit of the fuel Tine to prevent : 2D 1° Flex "B4eL" Over fae Pectin Voll \ sees Siediener- ! ie green | 20s, Seer } <}-———— Zisehy i if Dae ! LYEL TANK INSTALLATION SEATBELT ATTACHMENTS very important safety feature of your 02 ts the individual seatbelt/shoulder harness assenbly provided for each occupant. Previously, you have mounted the attachrents for the shoulder harness in the main wing. Jn this section, you will install the mounts. for the seatbelts, and, finally, install the seatbelts in your aircraft.” Do all of the procedures exactly Tike these plans state; this section is your first line of defense fin the event of a mishap ‘The seatbelt mounts ave installed in the fuselage between the aft edge of the fuel tank and the forward edge of the seatback bulkhead. There is one outboard seatbelt attachment on each side of the cockpit, and a double seatbelt attéchnent of BLOO. ‘The outboard seatbelt attachrant is strat forward and iMustrated herein. A piece of 1/4 plywood about 2.2" x 1.2" is sanded to fit the fuse- age contour and beveled for the lamination of 7 B10 over its between the plywood and the fuselage skin use epoxy. The 0.7" MIN overlap onto the fuselage 4s very Important, as is’naking sure that the glass does not turn any'sharp corners. The two holes for ‘the ANZS-416RI4 screws may be drilled from the inside of the fuselage all the way through to the outside: the’ holes for the screws can be filled with dry micro later. The aluninum angle should be about 1.25" in Jengtih, and permit at least 3/8" from the center oF each hole to the outside edge. The angle should be installed permanently, and then the hole for the AN4-5A bolt holding the seatbelt itself drilled afterwards, so that the hardware does not interfere. Note that the seatbelt pulls off at about a 45 degree angle. You ray wish to sit in the aircraft and pick the optimum FS for the seatbelt fittings prior to bonding the plywood in place. The other side is a mirror image of the one illustrated. CONTINUED ON NEXT PASE Seersnr FUT Ting CLR OED SEATBELT ATIACHMEN Pron View) Searecer feuanael AND 10133-1003 Akimioun Extrision Ms 25-4 Sceew Gvr)-2| SECTION 4A PAGE 14-5,At BLOO, a common attachment is used. The plywood should be about 2.4" x 1.8" and fs beveled to " Form an A-frame: arrangenent, o that, the aluninun G4" Ayw0.o extrusion can again pull off at about 45 degrees Wanna 2:4 lence Vesrwawé The 7 BID is again laminated in place with the 0.75" MIN overlap onto the fuselage. Next, in order to close out the front and rear parts of the ‘tent’, carve sone urethane for two ‘plugs’, one on either end; these are installed after the extrusion 1s per= mmanently mounted so that the ANS25-416R16 screws do not need to be accessed. The plywood was made Tong so that even with the extrusion in place, there wil] StiTl be room to laminate 3 BID around the plugs up onto the pravious 7 BID lamination with a ainiaum secace Gorrom Cone vertap. "Finally, install she seotetts hemselves. ‘the extrusion length for both. inboard and cutboar : pieces is a nominal 1.3". When finished, this BLOD SBE VIEWS Tepping onto the fuselage’ tnsee' sin in the our Nore? HARDWARE OmirreD directions ° Ae CaRITY Searecer Aned-5A Boer: Lirrag Grarnce Orestrtess) sevens ASAE 41k id SAE OE) Aeib 1e133-10 oe Amica Extrusion Fusecace Borram CORE LGBONMD SEATBELT ATTACHMENT (Fewr View) Now.is @ good time to install the shoulder hamess assonbl ies peraanently to their attachsants. Since feach occupant hes a Y-harness arrangenent from one bolt, there will need to be two slots per side placed in the seatback bulkhead to allow the actual harness to cone through into the cockpit. Sit in the cockpit to determine best where these slots should be; they should be no larger than necessary, and should have a glass-to-glass bond lamination around the slots COCKPIT CONSOLE ASSEMBLY Tow is 2 G00d tine to install your center console and the two sige consoles in your fuselage. The accompanying sketches show the locations. Leth begin with the’ canter console,” the centerline of which should be on BL00.” To gain more hip room the Sides my be angled toward 8L00 as they qo down. The S&Are1ck top center console piece is not installed until after — Seexaean. all of the control Stick mounting and rigging has been accomplished, but it can be used “dry” to help nount the center console vertical pieces. Remenber that. the glassed side of those pieces is the side not visible ee after assembly, fe. the side nearest 6.00. Two cUt- breer outs will be necessary for the seatbelts £0 clear the fe Sesracir Pieces. Use fiox along the botton of each piece to A Ettach them to the fuselage, and Taninate 11 BID on the ‘inside Tapping onto the pieces and the fuselage CENTER CON: ininimun of 1 inch. Do not glass the outside faces of SOLE INSTALLATIE the to center concole vertical pieces une{t after the top canter console plece has been permanently installed. The. ‘kink’ is achieved with a sow cut into the foar (= Cenreg. Aisetnce Barron (not glass) and bevel ing the foam so that the piece Comsoc® PlECE can angle upward. ‘eounoen (re) “Zep More CTE, Console Avice: VERTICAL PHECE ov) Cfisciace Corre MEW AA PAGE 14-6‘The side consoles can be completely assenbled permanently at this time. Again, ranenber that the Previously glassed faces go on the outboard and Tower sides, so that they are not visible upon assenbly. Laminate 1810 tape at the joints wherever you can reach, and use flox at the Joints also. Once each ton and vertical piece has been’ joined, round the common comer and laninate 2 BID around the two faces, start- fing with a1 inch minimum lapping onto ‘the fuselage side, and finishing with a 1 inch miniaun Tapping onto the fuselage sideymain fuel tank, or Seatback Bulkhead, depending on FS location. This will give each side console a ‘one piece’ look and reduce Finishing weight: later. Both the side consoles and the center console should be assenbled so that each top piece 1s level when in place. This will be useful later for level ing your aircraft for installation of the main wing and canard, as well as for weight and balance. TOP _CENTER CONSOLE ASSEMBLY Once the control stick assenbly is in place, and the C513 push-pull rod to the elevators in place, you can permanently assenble the top center console piece. Sone trimming witl be necessary to clear the control Stick and its associated hardware. The top piece Is mounted with Flox Round the top corners and laminate 2 SID at 45 degrees to 8L00 around the top piece all the way down to the botton fuselage, using 1" minimum lapping onto the fuselage botton, Seatback Bulkhead, and main *uel tank, To sunmarize, at this point in the construction, the center and side consoles are installed with 2 810 over the outside faces of each console, and 1" minimum Tapping onto the rest of the fuselage structure. The are now strong enough to put weight on INT PANEL INSTALLATION t is suggested that the Instrunent Panel not be mounted in the fuselage pernenently until all cutouts for instruments, radios, and equipment have been made. However, at this tine, you may elect to make the small sub-panels that extend from the batten of the ‘instrument panel to the top of each side console and the center console. The width should be the sane as the width of the console. For material, you may use the 1/8" plywood, 0.063" aluninun, or even 1/8” thick white foam with 1 BID on each side. These Sub-panels are useful for switches, geuges, and as mounts for controls. by valve inetallation Datfle installation baffle installation ‘op Lest: Puek Drain Top Right: Side view Lower Right: Botton view of (MR Rout aa woe Senrasce BUceHEno: S108 CanpsoLe VERTICAL Aece|re) ! ee Taek, Bowoen Ts FuseeAce S26 Nar Barron aa SIDE COMS¢ FusELasE Barron WSTALLATI Fuseunce auvoer (rv) 2a0 SOE Cousye VeRriae PIECE ry LEW 4. PAGE 14-7,CONTROL STICK INSTALLATION ‘Tnstall the control stick only after the fuselage has been assembled and the fuel tank, center console, and side consoles have been Installed, ‘on the center console so that It may be acti 1 right hand, or by the passenger's Teft hi In order to make your Q2 have thal ance, sit in the cockpit in a confort n that 0 both see out of the cocl the rudder pedals. Rest your right hand on the yr console and estinate where the control stick }d be placed fore and aft to be most confortable: Bie GCA to UESAZ. “TE 1s toportant shat Cryo Os heen dm on he Sater, 08 RCSAD, (t— Stick Grip Cacved ick to pivot free From Bolsa (epony Find: the GES spacer nateriay’ and cut {t into two % @csat) "Find the three phenol te bearings C31 the sketches carefully. CS2 is the longitud~ nade out of 3/4* 0.0. lininun tubing. Tt needs to be but, as you can see, the exact Weer Looking Aft) From your previous determination of the proper control stick location, you can decide how much to trim fer console $0. that the CSI Bearing can be attached with flox and 2 BID et the forward edge of 2 BID the center console. Yop Center ae pie hate Conk Gadik HOLY TOOT THi5 Stee! Spacer Gack side oF Go Ee) OCS3 Spacer ANF6O-L0Le Washers CSL Phenohe Gearing Hote: OCSAG shall prove trecly and have Yess fon O08 Precploy pare 5 af Gide View) PAGE 14-8Once that lamination has cured, trial fit the control stick, the QCS3 spacer, andthe CS2 longitu- final aileron torque tube together so that you can Jocate the CS4 bearings back at the FS94 bulkhead. Be careful to avoid binding. The CS4 bearings should be Tocated on BLOO at about 14.5. Note that 2 BID and flox are used to attach each of the CS4 bearings to the bulkhead. Once those laminations have cured, you can assenble ‘the control system as shown. Remember, the stick must be smooth and free in the pitch and rofl directions Also, the fore and aft travel of QCSAZ must not exceed 0.03", as shown. iiork slowiy arid carefully, being sur not to elongate the holes you are driiTing for the various AN3 bolts to connect averything together. Keep check- ‘ng to make sure the control system renains free and sooth. There is Tittle worse than a fine handling basic aircraft with a very stiff control system, The MN3-12h bolt to connect CS2 to QCSA2 will Tequire a hole drilled in the console. This hole can be Teft open for future access, or closed back up again. Please note that the control stick with neutral aileron is canted slightly tovard the pilot for better stick/ hand geometry. KEELE Duty. See “Aileron Goper Connect Assembly Drowning” $894 bvikhead.. foward ANS-L2A CS5, (S12, and CS13 are made from 1/2" 0,0. x 0,035" wall 203473 Aluminum tubing. The proper Tengths will have to be determined upon installation. Don't forget the length taken up by the rod ends and ANSQONTS adjustable threaded rod ends. Each push-pull. tube system has one of the adjustable rod ends to allow for small errors in properly sizing the push-pull tubes for length. You mist have at least 2 threads of the adjustable threaded rod ends Screwed into the rod ends to be safe. Tt is reconmended that you set up your systens so that the adjustable rod ends are at mid- travel, to allow for future adjustment, particularly with the ailerons. Use your aileron rigging template and your elevator rigging teaplate to assure that you obtain the proper anount of travel in pitch and roll. Using wood bonded in place, make control limit stops both between QCSA3. and the fuselage bottom, between O2CSAB and the canard shear web, and between QGSAI and QCSA2 to limit surface travel to’ the proper limits. DO NOT HURRY THIS SECTION it 1s too important an area to make mistakes in, ‘The stick grip is carved out of Balsa wood and attached to QCSAI with epoxy. Once your afleron and elevator control systens are functioning, clinb into the cockpit and spend § minutes Playing fighter pilot. Then get back to work, oF you'T never finish your Q2. Moré! C85 Simesie Arriah “Tes 22 —AMst6-4 Jam Not F34-14 keo Exo a AV ITO-B A5-10A iS HL 19,5 (APPROX) A ose ote Bevel) TP necessary WiaoxYeTe x01” 4130 Stee! spacer 26I0 AILERON LOWER CONNECT Crde View) PAGE 14-9“VHA syn pees b gare Sooboag So piscttoper fare cee kung 4 Ag79d Bs1-¥ wy N 5 s, ROAD 497704 4 syneol/on / POb ILI) PI MOY 9 Sb: er Z> (np INSTALLING THE PITCH gRIM s¥STEN fe pitch trim systen is a simple looking double prin im mounted in the center console forward Of the control stick. Tt must be built exactly ae per plans if you are to enjoy the sane fine handling qualities fe the prototype Q2. ia addition to providing pitch rin capabilities, the system also serves to regulate the stick force per 9 of nitrol aysten in pitch. ‘the illustrations raightforvard. The trim wheel is carved from plywood, and a dowell is bonded to Lt to allow the AND-11A bolt to attach the trim wheel to the 0.375" 0,0, x 0,049" wall 4130 steel ‘Tubing. A ANDSI-6-10 grommet Ls bonded to one of the Phenolic bearings (both of which are bonded to vertical side pieces of the center console) in to provide friction in the systen. This i= very important. Be sure to verify clearance between the pitch trim system and the C513 rod and control stick. A hole is drilied-through the tubing to allow the 1/8" diameter nylon rope to be knotted twice for retention. Se cazetui eo avoid kinks, and pre~ wind the rope at least one turn around the tubing to avoid jerkiness in the pitch authority. Note that the #1 and #2 spring ropes wind in opposite @irections on the tubing so that rolling the trin wheel forward ylelds a nose down trim direction. ‘the rope should be replaced every 1 year/100 hours. Soe the "Initial Flight Testing of Your Q2" guide Zor information on altering erin kates and forces. Srgne as ore RIX 20.4 F NELLIS 5 gf e 8 gon a ge gf 28 an 32 ae ae yy Ra, ab a « R s ogy g SB 3 oy 2 : g + 88 ~s PAGE 14-10 fers) s3amtere rong dog Irene 729Ne WweMAKING YOUR Q2 TRAILERABLE InTRODUCTION Th this chapter, you will make your Q2 trailerable and at the same tine Join the forward and aft fuselace Shells together. As stated in Chapter 12, this task should be accompl ished prior to mounting the vertical fin in Chapter 14. Also, Chapter 12 contains inforna~ tion on Joining the forward and aft fuselage shells together’ permanently if you do not desire to make your @ trailerable. EXTERIOR LANINATION Begin By jT9ging the two shells together and check ing for a good fit. Sone sanding my be required for a Flush Fit. Next, sand the outside skin for 3" on either side of the joint in preparation for the lamination. Laminate 2 81D as shown around the area next to the Joint. The first ply 1s 3° wide and the second ply is 1,5" in width. The lamination should be oriented 45 Jegrees to the joint line, and any overlapping pieces of cloth should have a 1.8" Minimum overlap. Knife trim flush with the Joint Aewses Pp———~20- LINSIOE_LiatrNATION Then mark the 10 locations for the fasteners Remove the inside shel. skin and core foam as. shown at the 10 locations. The taper shown is to allow the Next laminations to flow smoothly around the comers Each location will have an area 1" x 2" on each shell (a total of 2" x 2") sanded down to the outside shel] skin, as shown. Note from the sketches that only the area’ around each fastengr location 1s affected, I ‘the F594 bulkhead interferes with the lover 3 locations, slot the FS94 bulkhead a5 needed, and then replace ‘the materials. A pad of BIO ts laminated at each location and on each shell. A total of 9 BID approximately 1" x 2" are used. “An additional 3 B10 overlapping 1” minfeun onto the inside shell skin are Taninated to tie everything together. It 1s important to taper all laminations carefully to avoid joints, bumps, joggles, etc. Also, these laminations are oriented &5 degrees to the joint Tine. 2810 "+2" Fos Ar ASTENER LOCAT DONS Ove 0 Pesce) 6~ i GRID AT AS" Ts Cor cme ‘thnee Arr FueAGe pal he 0" Svan TRIAL je Asrente SMETeICAL L 2 ED-1"2" AOS % OD ATES yew Bg 1841FASTENER_INSTALLATION TSTNAKE 10 of FCI and 2 of FC2 using the full size patterns provi Attach the 10 FCl's to the Forward fuselage at the 10 locations using ANS25-10R10 serews. (2 per fastener). ‘Jig the rear fuselage shel1 into position flush against the forward fuselage shel! using a few dabs of Bondo. By shining a light inside the fuselage at each fastener location in order to see each FCI, drill in the #12 holes (10 locations) for the K1000-3 nutplates Mount the nutplates to the FC1 fasteners with ANAZ6AD-3-5 rivets, countersinking then flush fron the side of FCI next 9 the pads Install the ANS25-10810 screws (10 Tocatfons) to complete the asserbly. That is all there is to it k 1000-3 Moree ATE AV ARGADSS. RIVETS (FLUIN On TOP OF FEI YEW BB _— ——_. femen —-——-]} yy aon IN 9 810+ /'¥2"s ( ra~~ : AWS2E-10R10 ~--4! JSeweurs iH ratte. Kiooo-3 Murecaré Sy (CAD aver seams ans rree Vel sree ae a aT aeze noes everGye) RUDDER CABLE DISCONNECTS In order to complete making your Q2 trailerable, it Js necessary to make quick disconnects for the two rudder cables running aft from the rudder pedals to the tailuheel.A-simple method 1s shawn here. To disconnect the cables, renove one of the AN3-5A bolts from each side In practice, to renove the rear fuselage, remove the 10 screws in’the aft fuselage shell. Next, pull the forvard and aft fuselage shells apart using the slack due to the rudder pedals so that you can renove the ANB-5A bolts indicated above. As a final note, if your Q2 has any antennas Jocated in the aft fuselage, they too will need to have quick disconnect Fitting Zeracnmenr MOTE! HARDWARE SAME RUBBER CABLE QUICK DISCONNECT 152 END OF CHAPTERENGINE INSTALLATION ENGINE MOUNT INSTALLATION Nake @ ENZ backup plates. A full size drawing #5 included. Find the 4 Q2EM1 engine mount weldnents. Use a ANG bolt to stack each QZEMI to one EN2. Next, dritT in € 0.190" diameter holes in each QZeM1/EM2 com ina~ tion in the corners. Using the sketch entitled ‘Engine Mount Holes" locate the four hole locations on the firewall and dri1] in 0.375" dianeter pilot holes. 63e" Four Sua YEW WETO/ STARTER BOX MOTE AH Dimewsians anne ‘isitie Smeqziars FIREWALL PROTECTION Prior €0 Rounting the engine 1 MGINE MOUNT HOLES airframe, it is necessary to shield the firewall with Fiberfrax and aluminum sheet Next, dri] in the engine aounts on the firexal] One layer of Fiberfrax iust shield 21) exposed by taking’ exch QcEM and using en AK boIe to. stock. the plywood, including the inside of the nagneto/sterter Geel to the firenail, and then drilling the 40,150" box To protect the fiberfrox fron abrasion cue to dianeter hotes per Q2iMl through the Tireval].Tempor- terval wer and tear, a thin sheet of sluninun ic airfly mount the EM2 backup plate as shown using’ some stened over the fiberfrax, However, the. aTunnum AN3 bolts so that the engine may be temporarily mounted sheet does not need to be placed over the fiberfrax on the firewall protecting the magneto/starter bors you may choose, to PRELIMINARY ENGINE MOUNT ise 2 layers of fiberfrax mherever'« sheet of stuminan The purpose of this section 1s only to establish is not used. the size of the cutout in the fireaall to clear the The Fiberfrex my be held in position with epoxy magneto and, starter assenblies. Skip ahead to the It is fragile, so be careful not to destroy it in section on “Magneto/Starter Box" to understand what handling. | To attach the aluminum to the f1 the final shape and size must. Took Tike. Then, open a few 8846 rivets located not closer than up a hole in the Firewall just Targe enough to’clesr outboard edge of the firewall. (The everything. During the next section, you will make will be mounted there Tater.) the final hole. Once the hole has been stzed, renove the engine. MAGHETO/STARTER BOX "On the Qe, the starter end magneto section of the engine projects aft of the firewall into 2 slywood box. This box is 9 sided and constructed fron 1/8" thick plywood. Tt has the inside dimensions shown. These Gimensions are rather eritical, so follow then closely. Use a few dabs of 5-KIN to hold the "Jigsaw pieces! together and Taminate 1810 on both the inside and outside of the box. Enlarge the previous cutout in the Firewall until the box will just fit through it. Attach the box permanently using 2 BID tapes on bath sides of the firewall. “Verify that the magnato/starter accessories will fit within the envelope of the boxMOUNTING THE ENGINE typical engine mount assesbly is shown in the sketches. Mount the engine permanently. Soriee te = 4 user de ee watte 54 ane~5ta Boar 1 be M2 bactuP Aare geemd / twee” 9 — ng ore SEB (EAA E RII T Bor | ae Fuaccren $ Sutera concen LNGINE MOUNT DETAIL (VP 4 PLACES) MOUNTING THE PROPELLER ~~ the propeller ts delivered to the builder with ‘the mounting holes predritled. Neke 248 from a piece of 0.25" thick 606176 Muninun. “A full size pattern is provided. Use the predrilled propeller to drill the six bolt holes in ‘the EB. ‘The propeller is mounted with 6 AN6-37A bolts. Note that the spinner 4s not shown in the ‘Tlustrat tons because complete mounting instructions ere included with the spinner itself. MISES~G2E NUTS E-MG-374 80ers AN GO-G1G WASHES ‘Sescew Swrimerescaey M63 7A Bou ct Say 1 ences f CeAWR SHAFT lee ems ANGE 4 PROPELLER PROPELLER MOUNTING Ware: Spinner rat shown but Shoulel be mounted a Some Hme as prop. 162COMLING FLANGE CONSTRUCTION Tn this section, you will make the flange that attaches the cowl ing'th the firevall. This flange will Fit around the entire circunference of the firewall First, use masonite, scrap plywood, or particle board to mike an accuraté template of the Firewall. This template wiiT alTow you to form an accurate fiange wat wil? produce an excellent fit on the coving. Bondo’ the cowling to the template at the outside edge, so that the cow! ing is draped Tike it will be when’mounted on the firewall. Tt is necessary to do only one-half of the cowling at a tine Next, using grey tape, protect two inches of the inside cowling skin and 2"'of the tenplate inside surface, as shown. Laminate a 3 810 Flange around the inside joint, overlapping | inch onto the inside cov ing skin and the inside template surface. Allow to cure thoroughly to prevent future warpage: Repeat the process with the other half of the cow ing Remove the flanges fron this simple “nold" and clean off the grey tape froa the cowl ing Plmooe OR PARTICLE BOARD Cur 72 A REWALL OU7LWE emt tne MAT CHIE FIREWALL QUTLIWE COWLING FLANGE CONSTRUCTION TRIMMING THE COMLING ~~ The cowTing 1s shipped to you preformed and rough trimed to size. Final’ trimming can only be acconp- Vished with the engine mounted on the airfrane and the propeller spinner available for fitting. Do not Proceed further until that has been acconpl ished. Previously, you fabricated two cowling maunting flanges, one for the top cowl ing half and one for the bottom Cowling half. Locate these two flanges. Tt wil] be necessary to cut 2 hole in the nose of the cowting for the crankshaft to pass through. The hole should clear the crankshaft by only 1/4" to minimize air leakage. The fitting of the cowling is a trial and error operation. By fitting the spinner to the crankshatt flange, you can determine the necessary cowl ing Tength to allow only a 1/16" gap between cowl ing and. spinner. Obviously, the cowling is trismed as necessary on the aft face.’ Once the length has been arrived at, it is necessary to mount the cowl ing mounting flanges using BSPS6 rivets on about a 3.5" spacing. The flanges are located so that the cowl ing will fit Mush with the fuselage after mounting. The rivets holding the flanges also serve to mount the Fiberfrax and aluminun sheet to the firewall. Some trimming of ‘the junction of the two cowl ing halves may be necessary to achieve a best fit. 16-3COMLING AIR INLETS. The cowl ing air inlets can now be cut into the cowling. They are nominally each 3.5" x 6.5" in size, with a 3/8" radtus (using Bondo) around the Tip. A Sketch is included for 7 = \ . }~ — N Gouna HE Seer eae COUMING Ap INLET (Faortt vers) Wore: Rais bies Ye? wire Brsoo COWL FLAP CONSTRUCT ION in order to improve the efficiency of your (2, we have utilized a simple cowl flap. Using a fe1E tipped marker, mark on the inside bottom canling the 12" x 8.25" gutline of the cowl flap. Trim 1.5" forvard of the aft edge to remove the cross~ hatehed area on the iTustration. hen the cowl flap is opened, it is necessary to have both sides closed off, like a dustpan. (See Section A-A). Flat laminated Fiberglass (4 plies) is ‘trinmad to fit the botton cowl curvature and bonded to either side of the cowl flap with 2 BID. Allow roon For the cowl flap to open up to 3.0" when making these side pieces. out the cowl flap from the Tower ‘3. Smooth up all rough edges. Beshort piece of the NSZ02574 hinge is used to hinge the cowl flap. It ts located with 8 BSPAZ rivets. To seal the renaining gap at the leading edge of the cowl flap, rivet asbestos along the width of the cowl Flap with more 85942 rivets, to form a secondary ‘an a primary air seal. The asbestos and the should be Tocated on the inside of the lower cou ing cont _M 92025764 [mae NOTE: CA0r3-WATEMED AREA TS. CDutt. OPEAING — Borron Coming Ma CLoanrate Downs) \ “seerion aA 16-4 ‘he cowling halves and you will be rewarded with-an excellent fit. * Se rewarded with Baws Pre peewace Cowen PaMe _B5Pd6 RUET A" SPHCWIG) S07 1032-29 Mid eoS ever eio08 9 NOTPLATE ath i lO Louce Comes COWLING / FIREWALL ALIACHMEN gevce Ciece £1000" OTPLATE: An15071/032 R10 WANs 6-85 Rovers Lowee WP comenre UPPER LOWER Cope. ALIACHMES(CABLE GUIDES ‘Every push-pull cable except the carb heat control uses a cable guide to provide positive control of cable overent. Yake up three cable guides as shown. The mounting bolt hole should be drilled upon assembly ater. These cable guides function by sizing the hole that the cable housing passes through such that. when the AN3-18A bolts are tightened, pressure will be exerted upon the cable housing, preventing slippage. Care must be exercised not to put excessive pressure on the housing, which might damage the cable. os. ze" Feo Wen! 08 UE PULL CABL GUIDE Make 3 Seite 864 eA komununy Aaghe Ruereo To Coase Fear COWL FLAP ACTUATIOW yea Bau shee Tes wee CABLE 737 ees Moderete DU CAL CABLE ATTACH CExcEeT THROTTLE) THROTTLE ARM. SWSIS+3 oT { THROTRE CaBE mt} 2. Faire Hes ob END C8 0a THROTTLE ATTACH nottle cable: rivet a piece of the 9/8" x 3/8" x 16" alin angte £0 the off easter mounts as” Shown” Using BsPa2'rivels-— Don't rivet through the oft cooler hens attach'the cable quide and instal. the enrossle G6." TA'sketeh ig Included fo aseist you" on rookies Up the throttle cable’ the thvott fe boyy arm oul Flap cables ‘bolt the cable gurde tothe firewet"suehthat it con assist the cow! Flap setuation A'Gletch is Included showing the arn on the cow Flap tnd abttchnent of the ele Mixture control cables again bolt, the cable guide to,the Firenll so thet the mixture contol can Se Setate Carb heat: this control is potted into the Fire- yell with silicone or S-MIN and attached to the carb, heat control av. MowsiTale GoeT AWS-13A Cowie FLAP § PU TURE MUSA THROTTLE In Mele BO Pus pice C18cE wousig 165sAFELING ie Purpose of the engine baffling is to provide adequate airflow for cooling to all critical areas of the engine and accessories. Air enters through the conling alr inlets located on either side of the Spinner.” A vertical baffle Tocated in front of the Forward engine cylinders forces the incoming air to travel upward across the cylinders and then down through the fins, exiting the dotton of the cowl ing through the variable opening cos) flap. Another vertical baffle located Just aft of the rear cylinders assists in forcing the air down through the cylinder Fins. Likewise, baffling between the cylinders and ‘the sides of the cowl ing perforns the sane function. An opening in the Forward vertical baffle allows air— flow into the of] cooler. Once having passed through the ofl cooler, this air mixes with the spent cylinder Fin air to exit through the cowl flap. ‘Muninum with an 0.032" thickness is the primary baffle material. Approximate Tull size patterns are provided. However, there is no easy way to fit baffling around the complex shape of the engine, Areas of leakage mist be closed off with aluminum in the case of large holes, and silicone in the case of small Teaks. The black rubber asbestos is used be the aluninun and the cowl ing to provide a Close Fit when the col ing 1s installed. Pop rivets (BsP42) are used to join the pieces of baffling and asbestos together. Snal? angles can be bent up from the 0.032" thick aluminun to attach the baffles to bolts on the engine painted red. In this manner, the baffling will be renovable Baffling can easily consume 10 nanhours of work, so don't hurry. Inadequate cooling is a major factor fn mary hosebuilt aircraft engine problems. ND OF CHAPTERFUEL SYSTEM INSTALLATION INTRODUCTION The 02 fuel systen consists of a main fuel tank that forms part of the seat, and a fuel header tank positioned above the passencers' legs. The carburetor Fecetves fuel by gravity feed from the header tank. The header tank 1s filled fron the main fuel tank by an electric fuel pump, with a manual fuel pump as a backup. An overfill tine in the header tank continually recirculates the excess fuel pumped by the fuel pump back to the main fuel tank. Each tank has a seperate fuel gauge. In the event of a complete fuel pump failure, a full header tank is sufficient for over 225 statute’miles at economy cruise. The main fuel tank fs filled fron a fuel cap Tocated on the right. side of the fuselage just ahead of the instrument panel. The header tank can only be Filled using the fuel punp. FUEL FILLER SYSTEM Provided with your Q2 kit is 9 small storage bottle. By cutting the neck from this bottle, the lpper part can be used as the fuel cap. The storage bottle top is compatible with fiberclass/epoxy laninates. As an option, the builder might consider using a convent onal sluminim fuel cap, but the mounting will be more difficult. (Once the top of the bottle has been cut off, trundle down to your nearest plunbing supply place and find a piece of PVC pipe of approximately the same Gianeter, Then, trundle back hone and laminate the ‘storage bottle neck to the PYC:pipe with 2 BID. Be sure to sand both surfaces prior to the lamination. Take a magic marker and nark the location on the outside fuselage skin where the fuel filler door must 0. Carefully, cut out a door and save it for later. Next, make.a recess for the fuel cap fron 1/4" white foan’and Fiberglass epoxy. As shown in the sketches and pictures, the PUC pipe is bonded into position with flox. The recess Prevents spilled fuel fron entering the cockpit. ‘To hinge the fuel cap door, you could use a small piece of hinge and bond it in place. However, because Of the fuselage shape, this may not be satisfactory In alternative is to fake a snall pin type hinge Find a smal] diameter (about 1/16" dianeter) steel rod, Grease It with vaseline to prevent adhesion by the epoxy, and lay it Flat against the upper inside portion of the fuel cep door. Laminate 3 BIO over it. hen cured, the pin will stilt be able to rotate, but will be restrained by the cured laminate. Finally, fit the door carefully and bond the ends of the pin to the fuselage on either side of the fuel cap door cutout. Presto, a hinged fuel cap door. Finally, drill a 1/16" diameter hole in the top of the fuel Filler cap. This will serve as the main tank vent. awa HEADER TANK CONSTRUCTION ~ Previously, in Chapter 14, you have installed the iain fuel tank permanently in the fuselage, along with the main fuel tank fuel gauge. ‘The important fuel Reader tank dimensions are shown in the accompanying drawings. This fuel header tank is Installed against the upper fuselage inside skin approxinately 5 inches aft of the firewall. Sufficient room must be Teft so that the pilot's and passenger's feet will clear the header tank: The large sunp is a sinple rectangular box. The upier portion of the header. tank is curved to fit w Yn the fuselage. This section must be custom fitted to each individual aircraft. Suggested heights for front and rear pieces are provided as a guide. The Vength oF 12 inchas should provide sufficient. clearance for the instrument panel radios and instrunents. How- ever, this header tank should be adapted to your particular aircraft, verifying that both the pilot and passenger can be comfortably seated. ‘AIT pieces for the header tank should be cut fron the 1/4" thick white foam. One BID on either side of ‘the foan is used when assenbl ing the header tank. The “Taminations that will "see" gasoline, should be made slightly wet to minimize leakage VEWAAPoewaeo Preririon ——__ y f eee I rae Mer paeririen geuneo The = Wore | i ae ton 3 tae) 22 | ea Soe ar VEL AEAQER TANK LAYOUT HEADER TANK PLUMBING Prior to permanent installation inside the fuselage, the plumbing for the header tank should be installed. The accompanying drawing shows the location for all header tank plunbing. The fuel feed to the engine should be patterned after the main fuel tank feed shown fon Page 14-3, including the screen and flox, but onit~ ting the drain valve. “Both the feed line from the main fuel tank and the feed Tine fram the engine should be rom 1/4" 0.0. Aluninun tubing. Allow the tubing fend out from the header tank about 6 inches. Use Viberal amounts of lox to seal the exit points. The fuel overflow return tube is nade from 5/8" 0.0. Aluminum tubing.” Tt should extend to near the very top of the aft part of the header tank, in order to maximize the fuel capacity. Permit it to extend about 6 inches below the header tank, and seal the exit point with flox The routing shown for the plumbing is nowinal,, but wil! avoid Interference. 172HEADER TANK INSTALLATION TE 1s thich easter to install, the header tank prior to mounting the canard to the fuselage 7" OF EUEACE, Install the header tank using 2 BID and’ Flox . where it meecs the inside fuselage skin. ‘As a reminder, prior to permanently mounting the fuel header tank, make sure that {t will not interfere “Foet on) Wenoee, | Poe rre srs with instruments, feet, rudder pedals, engine installa- TAK Le eocupir tion, etc. In order to maximize the fuel quantity, 1 { has been fade a tight Fit in the Forward fuselage. 4 Senet rere ae HEADER Tapfke FUEL CAKE Particularly in the case of the fuel header tank guage, smali changes in aircraft attitude will make large changes in the indication of fuel quantity. The fuel header tank gauge should be used only to verify that the fuel header tank is maintaining a full level in straight and Tevel flight Also note that the fuel header tank gauge cannot, be installed until after the instrument panel has, been installed. FUEL_SYSTEN INSTALLATION “Included with this section is a schematic of the fuel system for your 02. It is really quite simple Both the squeeze bulb (backup fuel purp) and the fuel shutoff vatve mist be capable of being actuated READER TANK FUEL GAUL “IE Ts necessary for the fuel header tank to have by the pilot while seated in the cockpit. However, 4 fuel gauge to detect any failure of the fuel transfer it is important that the fuel Tine to the carburetor systen that would result in a reduced level of the from the header tank travel a minisun distance. header tank. Therefore, it will probably be necessary to fabricate A very sinple arrangement of clear plastic tubing an extension on the fuel valve handle such that. the fs used to create a sight fuel gauge. It ls floxed in fuel valve can be located near the firewall, in order place at the top and botton of the fuel header tank, to reduce the length of the fuel line to the carburetor. and then run aft through the instrunent panel into the The two filters shown are very important. They cockpit where it is turned vertically as shown. ftust be checked after every engine run for the first Later, calibrate the gauge with the fuselage 20 hours. “Regardless of how good of @ Job you expect levelled with respect to WL15 by adding fuel in one to accomplish in keeping contaminents out of the tha gallon increnents and marking the clear plastic tube. fuel tanks, particles will travel through the fuel A similar calibration is performed on the main fuel ines and aust be renoved. This ts a safety-of-fight. tank quage. issue. The vibration of taxiing will break loose Tt is important to note that the gauge ~wil1 only particles for several hours. 09 not. ignore fuel be accurate while in straight and level flight. contamination problens. Were: EGA Clamps (12) £55 Chames C2) Be Fonte /Tuemg Conynseriavis eo Sprout | | maw | even enced ve TAN, Yhy'oox Ye" EO Vive Tesire Crue) Zway wee SELECTERE VALVE, Fue SOUEERE aed Fretied 6-12 ALouoRA 804 Riek FieTER, Fue. Free FUEL SYSTEM f SEMAT IC | END OF CHAPTER 113INSTRUMENT AND PITOT-STATIC INSTALLATION NSTRUMENT PANEL INSTALLATION ™n infinite variety of instrument panel configurations are possible, Since this area of the alrcraft is such a popular focus for that ‘custom’ Took, we have refrained from presenting any specific configurations beyond the pictures of our panel and a few suggestions: e The basic outline of the instrunent. panel was cut out In Chapter 4. Tt is suggested that all cutouts for instruments and equipnent be completed prior to permanently mounting the instrument panel to the air frame. Nominally, the aft face of the panel is at F541,” This can vary depending on the particular ptlot size'and positioning to be used by the individual builder. "The three sub panels that extend down below the instrument panel to meet the two side consoles and the canter console are constructed from either scrap 1/8" thick plywood, or else 1/4" white foam with 1 BID on either side. One 81D should be laminated on either side of the complete instrument panel to add rigidity and to seal the plywood. If the builder wishes to make the instrument panel removable, small tabs can be fabricated. These ‘tabs would be bonded to the fuselage, and the tnstru- nent. panel bolted to then, Otherwise, permanently nount' the instrument, panei with BID tapes to the Fuselage sides and the consoles. If the attachaent is to be permanent, all work forward of the panel should be completed prior to this step, as access WITT becone very difficult Tt 15 recommended that the following controls be on thé center sub panel: cowl flap, carb heat, mixture control. It 1s further recomended’ that the throttle be located on the left sub panel. The electrical switehes and fuses can be Tocated either on the center SUD panel, or else elsewhere accessable to the pilot. Conventionally, Flight instrunents go on the left side of the panel, engine Instruments predominately. in either the center of the panel or on the far right, and avionics are mounted in either the center or the Fight side of the panel. Provision must also be made for a ground bolt, which is simply @ AN3-7A bolt located somewhere on’ the panel that {s used to connect the equipment needing Grounding. (See the electrical system schematic). The instrunents included with the kit ave those required by the FAA for day VFR flight. There is plenty of additional room available for optional instrunents and avionics. ALSELAGE. PITOT-STATIC. SYSTEM INSTALLATION “Begin by mounting the two Q2PS1 statte ports on either sice of the fuselage as shown. Use flor, being fareful not to clog up the static hole. Two static ports are used in arcer to assure accurate reatings fhiring sides} ip maneuvers ‘ine schenetic ingicates the required connections for the Rirspeed an Altimeser™” fun the. tubing 50. shat 1E dos nat carve with baggage or pacsongersn Ie pooxkyre is recomendee that it travel. down the center console pio Fees before reaching the instruments. an manne } Tes pitot aston muse be Teak checked He one individual weteh the airspeed Indicator, wile the @: rs other person blows into the pitot tube and uses his IZ PS | ZNETNELAT ION tongue t0_hold in the presssure. The airspeed indicator should register a. speed, which reains con stant for afew seconds. If the speed dinin’ shes I Vinile the second’ individual 1s hoiding the pressure in the system, thon there is 2 Teak somewhere, probaoly st one of the comections. e2rst On S.015 wyonxy'se PUNO Tobing 2700-155 ezes1 Lirer_SraTre arog SCHEMATIC " a cuapr CREMATIC ‘Mvp x032 @zes)_ LoCATION END OF CHAPTER 3003-0 181ELECTRICAL SYSTEM BW0 ReGua: Guo CASE OF Fie Ponto Toe CASE. sesr (nerexvaTee) 4/4. opsr Cuasree § (AC TERWATOR) (2Pr sreoaes) Ase wd. aie nraoDucTioN wenatic accompanying this up the magneto switches The panel ground bo a ANS-78 aN] ‘tens that must be grounded The fuses, fuse holders, wire (14 and #8), connectors, and switches he battery tery. a weight and balance has been per— 22 the Q2 Prlot's Manual) prior to locating the order to use it as ballast to achieve the desired center of gravity range. In lieu of that, it should be located the baggage Compartment. at about Fsa0. 181COMPLETING YOUR Q2 STREAMLINING YOUR_Q2 ‘A significant Tmprovenent in your 2's aerodynanic cleanliness can be achieved by fabricating Fillets and fairings for the major component intersections. A bit of artistic ability is necessary to develop a pleasing and efficient shape, but at this stage of the Construction, you'll be up to ft. ‘AILERON FILLEN The afleron/fuselage junction should be filleted using scrap foam and i 810. Each fillet will need to be 2 piece, as shown, if your aft fuselage is renovable Careful work should a11ow post’of the gap to be filled fon the top surface, while Teaving a gap on the bottom Side to allow removal of the aileron: ELEVATOR INGOARD FILLETS AL the elevator/fuselage junction, a more complicated fillet will. improve performance. Since the junction angle 1s more than 50 degrees, you will want, to sweep jn'a radius as. shown using scrap oa and 1 81D again. Visual ize how the fillet wiTl sweep into the cowl ing. ELEVATOR OUTBOARD FILLETS SOND Fillet 1s also necessary between the inboard face of the wheel pant and the outboard end of the elevator. Set the elevator with the trailing edge approximately 4 degrees up. ‘Use scrap foam and 1 810 to create a fillet similar to the one show in the picture. 7CANARO/FUSELAGE FAIRING ~ AE this point, their should be @ noticeable and ugly gap under the fuselage where the canard and Tuse- Tage meet, A fairing should be made out of scrap foam and 1 810 sinilar to the picture. WAIN WING TIPS SES How WouTd also be a good time to carve wing tips on the main wing. If you wish, you may add up to 3 finches af foam to the wing span to facilitate « smooth Tooking wingtip. Keep it simple, however. VERTICAL FIN TIP ~ Ditto for the tip of the vertical fin. VERTIOAL_FIN Previously, you mounted the vertical fin to the bottom of the fuselage. Now is the tine to permanently attach it to the fuselage and create a pleasing Fillet shape at the sane time. Using pteces of foam, fi11 the gap between the vertical fin and the aft fuselage. Carve the foam down to a pleasing shape, 2s shown, and Yaninate 2 B10 overlapping onto the aft fuselage skin a'nininun of 2 Inches. 20-2CARBURETOR AIR_INLET Cut a round hoTe in the lower cowling for the carburetor air inlet. Fabricate a round tube by Taminating 4 BID around a bottle such that the tube will slip over the end of the alternate air source. (Don't forget to use vaseline on the bottle so the lamination can be removed). Bond the tube to the Tower cowl ing carburetor air inlet hole. The result will be 2 direct ram air flow into the carburetor. CANOPY RETENTIC TE is advisable to have some form of restraint for an open canopy besides permitting it to rest on the main wing. Otherwise sin case of a strong wind, ‘the canopy may be biow off of the airerart. The iWustration shows a simple shock cord arvangerent. The cable is sized so that the canopy will remain open with tension against the shack cord. This will require the canopy to be open approxinately 90’ degrees: ‘Amore clever solution is to purchase @ smal gas spring asserbly (such as those on automobile hatchbacks) and install it on the aft canopy bulkhead and the seat back bulkhead. This is the ultimate in sex appeal! (a AACes) nessa Boe! | Ausetace | CANOPY RETENTION CARL, CPRONT YEW 20-3 COCKPIT AIR VENTS COCKDTE alr vent on either side of the fuselage must be installed prior to first flight. A simple shape, and recommended location, is shown in the sketches. fo exhaust the cockpit air, a hole could be cut in the taitcone, or else an exhaust vent could be cut in the aft top fuselage. CANOPY VERT SYSTEM Tor WéW! SECTION AA Mare! MoannsAe Pare PITCH TRIM SYSTEM TEI ‘hile writing Section 11 of these plans, and building NBIOA, we built a simple system to vary the tension, or drag, on the pitch trim wheel. ke a third TS-1 bearing from phenol ic. Dri1T 3/8" diameter hoTe as shown. Next, saucut. the bearing through the hole, but do not'go all the way through and make two pieces. The Tower half of TS-1 is bonded with resin to the end TS-1 bearing already. mounted. Do not bond the top half or the system will not function. Study the sketch. By turning the screw, the size of the 3/8" hole can be varied slightly, changing ‘the tension on the pitch trim drum, A knob Bonded to we screw would make tension adjustable in f1 ight. (ON NEXT PAGEPAINT AND FINISH You are now ready for finishing and painting your 2. Refer to Chapter 3 for recommendations on the Finish and paint. Your aircraft. may Took Tike’ the G'0nx iro. aircraft pictured here, but you still have a ways to 4150 Set! Toke G0 inorder 20 achieve & sparkling surface finish chat rs-) SitT"tuen heads at a1) the airports you will be visiting a 2 GEOMETRY sneer wR OTIS following shect is 9 three view of the @2 Tarren On it has been indicated the important aerodynamic and geonetric references. These have been expressed in terms of your old friends WL, BL, and FS. They Men floxe> Tepresent the geonetry of 9 G2 built properly tron Prmiace these Q2 Construction Plans. Please check them against WS L6-852-24 Sceens your aircraft looking for any major descrepancies. CELOM rend Tew stow eee ASSEMBLY inside the aircraft for weight and balance neasurenents. ANS24-B22U ToD + nny 2d UWI ekt Kooene FORWARD) EXHAUST SYSTEM MOUNTING The exhaust pibe exits the cowl ing next to the cont flap. In travel ing fron the cylinders to. the exit, the exhaust system will enter and exit ‘the baffling. These holes must be closed up to prevent air leaks, and consequent reduction in cooling. Also, the warm ‘exhaust pipe sust not cone into contact with fiberglass or any of the engine controls, so use asbestos where necessary. Congratulations on completing your very own Q2. 20-4oz ot 0 anwos op. — oon £5 103.9. rs 1028 Eb ef Frecwnue Fy pou 22027 seine “WAT stro Nem’ waned ssmmeirvisvone :3Lap0 aay O70 (ess HO oF cutoreRQ2 PLANS ADDENDUM G2 Guilder Tip Notices (02879) are intended to provide clariffcation, guidance, smproved construction wethods, and helpful hints of a none srandatory nature. The builder, at his descretion may use or discord any Q28T, "Nost,are a result of work acconpl ished at Quickie Alrerett Corporation building a Q2 from the QZ Constructton Plans, Any questions on 2 G25 notice shuld be reerrad to Quickie Aircraft Corporation, ach Q28T has a nutber and a publication date along with 2 description . of the builder tip. ° ° NUMBER part DESCRIPTION wars 1 auly, 1981 (G2 CONSTRUCTION PLANS = SECTION I: Some plan sets sent out may have faint re~ Production on parts of pages 9-2, 10-1, 10-2, 10-3, 11-4, 14-2, and Appendix Sheet 4. “tie intend to'have those sections reprinted within 30 days. We will send the reprinted sheets to any builder who reports: this problem. Q2 Plans Change Notices (Q2°C9 & Q2PCIO) are mandatory revisions to the Q2 plans. Each Q2PC has a nurber and a publication date along with a description of the change. AIT Q2PC notices should be incorporated into the builder's set of Q2 Construction Plans inmediately upon receipt by the builder. Any ‘questions on a Q2PC notice should be referred to Quickie Aircraft Corp. Numan DATE DESCRIPTION wpa duly, 1982 (Q2 GROUND ANGLE OF ATTACK: With the aircraft assenbled and WL15 level, and with the aircraft on a reasonable level floor, take a easurenent vertically between the floor and the bottom of the taftwheel.. The nominal measurenent should be 27". ‘A range fron 25" to 28.6" should be acceptable. This limitation is to assist tailwheel First landings and three point takeoffs at mid/forward c.g. ‘small change can be effected by changing the tailvheel diameter, It is @ good idea to delay mounting the tatispring until the aircraft is assembled, so that the proper height tan be achieved. qzpclo. 1 duly, 1981 ENGINE MOUNT INSTALLATION, P-16-2 does not: indicate the required spacer. The material is 4130 steel, or mild steel of 1/2" 0.0. x 3/8" 1.0. ‘The skatch indicates the location of this GEMS spacer (4 required) . OeWARD te ~kusbEe - MouniTs — 5 FIREWALL Bl ANIA asic je SMe Baceur CATE eeemd i wasner + 19-7002 BM MEE MIT beer 19 LUG FUBkE PEAY § ic Aeamniedent Coven Iq la ENGINE MOUNT DETAIL (TYP 4 Feaces)MUMBER DATE DESCRIPTION Q2PCi 21 August, 1981 WASS BALANCING ELEVATORS. In preparation for testing on turbocharged Remnasters and possible A-65 thru C-85 installations, we have further explored the very high speed area of the 02 operating envelope. We have found that mass — hore: @ecsat/ Aesirioed Seow wird ELEVATOR TE Fale UP LEFLEC Tn ELEVATOR MASS BALANCING Locate the two Q2CSAI1 arms and the rolded Jead weight: These elevator mass balance arms can be retrofitted to the elevator control system even lly, return the elevator to the full edge up position with each QZCSAII rest ston the canard, and drill in the one ANSW12A BoTt per side to attach the QBCSAII"S to acsas and C520. Leave the CsI pitch control arm unattached made to assure clearance with the fuselage sides. Fron Q2CSAB, and remove the two ANE-11A bolts Begin by attaching a molded lead weight to attaching the joint to Q2CSAB and C320. dew yee) Face each Q2CSALI as. shown: Remove the universal joint so that each elevator OF Fee Next, renove ‘the two bol can rotate independently of the other. Hake ila position, and slide sure that you have lubricated al? of the bearing Forward. ice at ar position. edge up with Theh renove the three bolts securing Q20SAB Remove lead, a and slip it inboard until the second 2c: ean bes }é rotate freely about. the hinge given a slight nudge. Failure ck feans that the pivots are too tight tnd must be eejuceed for © QLCSAB 02 C520 ‘Once the anount of Tead weight on each elevator has been adjuste, bolt the entire pitch control system together and check for friction, inboard of the fuselage. excess play, and interferences. CAWARD — ‘alled out a8 2 bu ——__—_— a Baws PELLqerci2 21 August, 1981 IMPROVED BRAKING EFFECTIVNESS. Me have determined that a single pull ‘brake handle modulating both main gear brakes sinil taneously {is superior in nearly all situations to the standard toe brakes. Materials and drawings are available for retrofit for all builders returning their unused Q28SH1's & two. ANZI0-1A pullies to QAC. Current kit shipments incorpor- ate this modification as standard. Development work continues ona set of retrofittable hydraulic disc brakes, which may be available as early as October, 1981. Those builders not ready to fly before then nay wish to wait and decide whether they wish to retrofit that systen instead. SINGLE PULL BRAKE HANOLE_ INSTALLATION ‘This section replaces the original section on instal ting the Brake Pedals (Q28SW1's) and Four inboard pulleys, In place ofthe individue 7 ally controled toe brakes, a single pull handle has been Incorporated on the left side of the O53 cockpit. Begin by fabricating 8S3 and 8S5 fron the 0.125" thick Aluminum and 8Sé from 1/4" plywood. Bets mounted in bosition with fox ard 2 B10 tapes to the top of the fuel tank near the eft side console. Position the BSt so that 2610 (rye) fhe handle will be an cosy and confortable reach for the pilot and'so it will not Interfere “he unnecessarily with pilot confort. Tor Of fied Tank Next, install the Brake Handie as shown in the sketch LEW AA ‘The Brake Equalizer 1s used to help praport- fon braking effectiveness equally. The. turnbuckle asserbly on the left side mist be’attached directly ‘to BS6 because of the proxinity of the cable to. the left elevator slot foam core. The turn= buckle for the right side can be nounted in the systen outboard of ‘the Canard shear web pulley. The two 853 Canard shear web puTTey mounts shown on page 1-4 must be modified in tocation for the proper angles. ANG0-10 WASHERS (yereat) AN 3-11A BOLT The cable raving is from the 855 Brake Q Equelizer around. the tyo pulTies'on the carard x shear web, and then outboard through the Elevator & slot foam cores as originally indicated. a The turnbuckles are adjusted to provide 3 aust braking on esch wheels N vy | q QP 4 &¢ Sy i 88 ge : ge s » Sy 8 x y as g ak s Qk tS + ak, 4 Nag y N Ue 8 ye 6 g xB ye RS y 'y Sk, LAME 2037 42 B2HKeb979 Qn) oe oO ont 3,AVIOOS Tin BOE Ui Crbee: 18--E KICOPRESS SLEEVE AWIOO-3 THM BLE AWUS-8 Coble Shackles }-AV3-//4 BouT OS4 PlywooR BLock. TOP OF FUEL TANK CONTOUR EF! Fuld PACE OF Fuée TAG

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