WORKSHOP by LARRY OKREND go Router Table Simply best Aa oostertabie shouldbe a simple efcient tool, Simple, however, doesn’t mean crude. This router table, for instance, has precision features sch as a flat, rigid top; a versatile table insert plat; efficient dust collection and an accurate, casy-touse fence. The Porter-Cable plunge router that I mounted in the table has features that suit itparticularly well for mousing in a router table, ‘This router table is a refinement of previous tables I've made. Long ago, | found that overly large and complex router tables (shaper wannabes) defeat efficiency rather than con- . tribute to it. In most instances, you use a router for tis ap 7 E serts for safety and efficient dust collection, Routing narrow pieces is easy with ‘push block, and the plate is equipped with a starting pin for routing irregular workpieces. table to mill pieces that are too small or awk- ward to shape with a hand-held router. Router tables are benchtop tools. Floorstanding, shaper-size router tables may look impressive, but they take up valuable shop space and don't improve performance. The ability to store this router table on a shelf leaves room for tools & i z i i 8 8 s 2 g PHOTOS BY scoTT JACOBSONRouter accessory No. 8 x 9/4" m screw and washer (2 req’) ROUTER TABLE » 2b yl | SH6' washer 5/16"T-knob Site 3-1/2" ccartiage bolt @read)—~ | iPorter-Cable's model 7529 plunge router provides a vac- ‘uum port and a plastic shroud for bottom dust collection. MATERIALS AND CUTTING LIST router's dust collection cup top of the fenc ‘mounted to the reinforced fence (above). The angled clamping behind the bolt toa firm grip on the top. KEY NO. DESCRIPTION SIZE with a legitimate claim to floor space TABLE (table saw, band saw, et.) Ae Top, MOF 3/4 x 16x 24 in, . . . AZ 1 Table plate* 9/8 x 9-1/4 x 11-3/4 in, Design considerations AS 2 Laminate top/bottom 16-1/2 x 24-1/2 in.** ‘Choosing a router is the first step in M4 edges 1x24-1/2 in designing a router table. I found the Bilin Base, birch plywood 3/4 x 15-3/4 x 23-3/8;n, Porter-Cable model 7529 plunge router c 2 Sides, birch plywood 3/4 x 11-3/4 x 13-1/2in. to be ideal for this use. It has integral D 1 Back, birch plywood 3/4 x 13-1/2 x 18-1/2in. dust collection, which I incorporated into E 1 Edgebanding, birch V8 x 1 x 136 in,” the table design. You can set the plunge- FL i Plate cleats, hardwood 3/8 x 3/8 x 10 in. lock lever open to allow micro depth eee: Plate cleats, hardwood 3/8 x 3/8 x7 in, adjustment. Its 2-1/4, plunge depth FENCE provides lots of cutting capacity. Other 6 1 Face, hardwood 34 x 3-1/2 x 27-1/2 it features such a3.a2hp soft-stan motor H 1 Bottom, hardwood 1/8 x 2-3/4 x 27-1/2 in. and varlble speeds further enhance the 1 2 Gussets, hardwood 3/4 x 2-3/8 x 2-38 in. too's suitability for router table use tee?) Clamping blacks, hardwood 1-1/2x 1-7/8x3-3/4 in. “See text, SHOPPING LIST ‘Cut oversize, trim to fit *Cut lengths to cover exposed plywood edges Although the Porter-Cable has a sec- ‘ond power switch on the top of the motor housing that’s meant to be used ‘when i’s mounted in a router table, I HOPPING LIST MATERIALS 3/4 x 48 x 43-in. birch plywood (1) 24x 48-in, medium-density fiberboard 24x 48-in, plastic laminate (1) 7/8 x 6 x 26-in, hardwood (for edgebanding) 1 qt. contact cement No. 8x 3/4-in, roundhead screws and washers (4) No. 6 x 3/4-n, flathead wood screws (12) 3/4-in, brads No. 10 plate-joining biscuits Yellow glue Self-adhesive rubber tape (see text) HARDWARE 5/16 x 3-1/2-in. carriage bolts and washers (2) 5/16-in. T-knobs (2 rea‘d.; Rockler catalog No. 71518) Table plate (Woodhaven catalog No. 147) Dust-collection ports for Porter-Cable router, model 7529, {see text) Electrical box with mounting strap 15A single-pole switch with receptacle Box cover Wire clamp 10 ft. 14-gauge wire with ground Three-prong plugPie File or serape the laminate edges flush with the top and bottom surfaces before applying the face laminate, opted to use a separate switched outlet (Gee photos, drawing) because it’s easi- er to find and use quickly. Wire the switch using the directions on the box. I determined the cabinet size based on these factors: the size and plunge travel of the router, the size of the top and plate, utility ay Draw a fine about 1/8 in. inside the Poston template on the plate i meter line and rout using aflush-trim Fit witha top mounted bosrog the height of the top when mounted on a ‘workbench and efficient use of materials (you'll need half a sheet of birch plywood). I designed a 2.in. lip on both the top and the base on all sides of the cabinet. The lip allows you to clamp the base to a bench or to clamp jigs to the top in any position. ‘The fence also clamps onto the lip. 1 didn't include a miter slot in the top because you can use a push block off of the fence’s face (see photo, p. 8) or the top’s front edge to do the same work as amiter gauge. Miter slots also have the unfortunate trait of collecting sawdust and debris that can interfere with a cut. Rather than making my own table plate, I used a phenolic plate manufac- tured by Woodhaven (see SOURCES and SHOPPING LIST) because it offers superior performance and versatility (Woodhaven also sells less expensive acrylic plates). The 3/8.in.thick phenolic plate is extreme- ly rigid, and it’s less likely to deflect from the weight of a heavy router than an acrylic plate. This plate comes with three two with bored holes (1-3/16 and 2 in.) and one blank. A starting pin for onthe topand trace the routing irregularshaped work is also included. ‘To drill the mounting holes for your router, simply use the router's baseplate as a template. ‘The fence has several features that make it functional and easy to use. Rather than cutting slots in the top for the fence's clamping bolts, I used L-shaped clamping blocks that grip the table from the sides. Not only is the table stronger without slots, but i's also much easier to remove the fence when its not needed. Tut the top of the clamping blocks at an angle so the top outside edge acts as a fulerum against the fence bottom. This allows the clamping block jaws to get a firm grip on the top (see drawing, photo) with the help of some selfadhe- sive rubber weather stripping. Note thatPlace the top and plate face down on a flat surface, then glue and nail the plate cleats (see text). the through hole for the 5/16in. carriage boltis 3/8 allows the wiggle room necessary for the pivoting action. Talso cut a 1/16 x 1/16in. (nominal) rabbet in the bottom of the fence’s front face to prevent dust build-up from hold ing the stock away from the fence. Draw layout lines forthe table cabinet and joining biscuits. Use a fence to guide the plate joiner. top, you'll need to make an accurate template to rout the table plate opening. (Woodhaven sells a hardboard template ifyou prefer to bypass this step.) Trace the shape of the table plate onto 2 piece of 1/4n. hardboard. Carefully cut on or just inside the line with a scroll saw or jigsaw. Fine-tune the edges with a sand- ing block or file (see photo, p. 12) until the plate fits perfectly in the template. Reinforce the plate cleats with No. 6 x 3/4-n. flathead wood screws. Don't over- tighten or the screw holes will strip. Making the top ‘The top isthe heart ofthe router table, so it’s important that you make it as precise- ly aspossible. Mediumdensity fberboard (MDE) works particularly well for the top substrate because it’s hard, rigid and sta- ble. Icovered al six ofthe top’ surfaces ‘Assemble the back and sides first, then the bottom and top. Clamp the assembled parts for a tight ft. Center the template opening on the top and trace around the inside with a pencil. Then score the line with a sharp utility knife to prevent chipping. Now with plastic laminate, The laminate not only provides a smooth, durable surface, it also prevents warping and further stiffens the top, much like a stress-skin panel Laminate the edges of the top before the top and bottom. Because the cut edges of MDF are very porous, apply two coats of contact cement to them. The com- bination of dust and contact cement often leaves rubbery “flags” on the substrate ater you rout of the excess laminate, its important to file, sand or scrape off these flags when you level the edges to the top and bottom (photo, p. 12). Leaving them can cause the laminate to lift. Keep the work area perfectly clean. Even a tiny bit of debris trapped between the substrate and the laminate will create noticeable bulge. Apply pressure with a ‘roller ora rubber mallet and board to ensure good adhesion. With the laminate in place, file al of the edges so they're ‘smooth and free from catches, Once you've firished laminating the draw a line 1/8 to 1/16 in. inside the table plate perimeter line as a guideline for yourjigsaw. Bore a starter hole for the blade, then cut out the waste. To fin- ish the opening, clamp the template on the top and use a flush-trim bit with a top-mounted pilot bearing to remove the remainder of the waste. The plate should fit with little or no play. To install the plate cleats, turn the top and plate upside down against a flat surface such as your table saw top. Press the top and plate lat, then glue and nail the cleats (see photo, p. 14). Follow up with wood screwsto ensure that the cleats stay put. Rockler Woodworking and Hardware Medina, MN www.rockler.com, (800) 2794441 ‘Woodhaven, Durant, IA www.woodhaven.com, (800) 344-6657