Zapatilla Crochet

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SOPHIE and Me
PdfPatternDesign - Ingunn Santini CROCHET PATTERNS FOR LITTLE AND BIG GIRLS
http://crochet-craft-santini.blogspot.com/
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Happy Scrap Slippers
BASIC SLIPPER PATTERN
Copyright © 2015-2016 - All rights reserved by PDF PatternDesign

Happy Scrap Slippers

Skill level:
Materials slippers
Yarn: All sizes; Double-strand Light/Sport weight 2,
OR Light Worsted / Worsted, weight 3-4
About 100 g (3.5 oz) 100 % cotton, or any suitable yarn
obtaining the gauge below.
Crochet hook:
European metric 3.5 mm (US E/4) for all sizes,
or any hook size to obtain the gauge and size
information below.
Gauge:
18 scs x 20 rows = 4 inch square (10x10 cm)
Sizes: Small - Medium - Large - Extra Large
THE BASIC SLIPPERS

Read info for sizes below.
Stitches used in this pattern:

Add color to your feet, treat you self with these
See stitches, terms and conversions at p 14.
happy summer slippers!

Terminology: US - American Crochet Terms.
I bet the most of you yarn-people out there, have

See conversion charts for BE hooks and terms at p 14.
a lot of annoying leftovers, yarn from various
projects, tiny yarn-balls stashed away, just in case!

CHECK-POINT FOR SIZES:
I have.
These one-piece, toe-up slippers are a perfect

Foot sizes are a complex issue, but I’ve boiled them
project to get rid of some of the smallest balls.

down to 4 sizes; Small, Medium, Large and Extra Large.
It was great fun! The final result is amazing, they
give me a real happy summer-feeling! Looks great

It’s the shoe’s width that decide the size, the length is
on tanned legs!
easy to adjust!
I can see the shoes in endless color-combinations;

Measure the foot-width around the widest part, divide in
find your stash-box, and choose your favorite

2 for diameter.
colors!
Make use of the chart below with indicative measures
See Suggestions for Color Combinations p 14.

for standard crochet/knit footwear’s length and width.
Remember; Crochet-fabric is stretchy, don’t make your
As all my crochet slippers, also this pair is turned

slippers too large. My instruction is for fitted slippers, like
into shoes!
socks.
All you need is to apply an in- and an out-sole
to the slippers! And finally, adding treatment to

Small = US 2 - 4 / EU 34-36
the soles will transform your indoor slippers into
Heel to toe: 7 3/4 - 8 1/4 in (20-21 cm)
a great pair of handmade Espadrilles/Toms for
Width: 3.5 in (8,5 cm)
street-wear!
More info on p 13.

Medium = US 5 - 6 / EU 37-38
Heel to toe: 8 3/4 - 9 in (22-23 cm)
No need of soles if you like to wear the shoes Width: 3 3/4 in (9 cm)
as slippers only!
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Let’s start with the basic slipper instruction.

Large= US 7 - 8/ EU 39-40
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Heel to toe: 9 1/4 - 9 3/4 in (24-25 cm)

NOTE ABOUT SIZES:
Width: 4 in (10 cm)
Please read the CHECK-POINT FOR SIZES .
In instruction sizes are written like this:

Extra Large = 9-10 / EU 41-42
S - M - L - XL
Heel to toe: 10 - 10 3/4 in (26-27 cm)
Info for the different sizes are written in the
Width: 4 1/4 in (11 cm)
same order.
TIP: Use highlighter to mark your size’s info!

Instruction Happy Scrap Slippers
These slippers are worked from toe to heel, in one piece. With this pattern, you can achieve ALL sizes!
NOTES:
All pictures in this instruction, is of size L.
Replace first sc at beg of every round/row with 1 ch, close round with sl st in 1’st ch at beg of R.
Turn all rows CCW (Counterclockwise). No of sts in instruction, is included the start ch-sts!
Stitches used in this pattern: See terms/conversions at p 14.
Collect all scraps of the scrap; you’ll need the tiniest yarn-pieces for filling the embellishing crochet-balls!
START ROUND 1 HERE

SM SM
Yarn-tail to start foundation-chains

1
THE STRIPED TOE PIECE :
Follow toe-piece st-chart at p 15 as you work the rounds.

See how to change color on the round, at pic-tut at right.
See enlarged st-chart above, for how to start Round 1.
Please check # of sts for each R, before closing with sl st. Round 3
Ch 6 for foundation, purple symbols. 2
R 1: Black yarn. Start in 3’rd ch from hook, work 1 scs in each of next
3 chs. In the last ch; 5 scs (You are now on the opposite side of the
foundation, green symbols), 1 sc in each of next 3 chs, in the last ch
(not counting the start-ch); 4 scs, close R with sl st in the ch on beg
of R. 16 sts on this 1’st R, incl the start-ch.
Change color: Close round
Mark the side-st= the middle-st of the 5 sts you have in each side.
inserting hook in 1’st ch on R.
Increasing start. Increase on all black rounds = every 2’nd round.
Pull through new color........
Carry Black/White strands on BS, working the rounds.
3
R 2: All Sizes: Increase 1 sc (2 scs in 1 st) in both sts next to (on each
side of) the SM, repeat for the other side of the toe piece.
You have incr 4 sts = 20 sts.
R 3: All Sizes: White yarn: Work scs around; 20 sts.
Alternate white and black yarn on all rows to follow.
R 4-7: All Sizes: Repeat round 2 and 3.
You have: R4 = 24 sts, R 5 = 24 sts, R 6 = 28 sts, R 7 = 28 sts.

...Close, and ch 1
Size S: You are finished with your increasings, continue to work sts
4
around for full toe-piece length = Round 10.
Size M: R 8-11: Continue repeating round 2 and 3 for full toe-piece
length = Round 11. R 8 = 32 sts, R 9 = 32 sts, R 10-11 = 32 sts
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Size L: R 8-12: Continue repeating round 2 and 3 for full toe-piece
length = Round 12. R 8 = 32 sts, R 9 = 32 sts, R 10 = 36 sts,
R 11-12 = 36 sts
Size XL: R 8-13: Continue repeating round 2 and 3 for full toe-piece
length = Round 13. R 8 = 32 sts, R 9 = 32 sts, R 10 = 36 sts,
R 11= 36 sts, R 12 = 40 sts, R 13 = 40 sts.

Ready for change to white yarn.
When your black and white-toe-piece is finished, the vertical
Toe-piece with increasings.
stripes start. See next page.

4
CONTINUE TOE - PIECE
The color work starts with a special-stitch, called Linked Trebles (Ltr). Practically 3 rows of stacked scs,
worked in 1 round. This st allows us to work vertical colored stripes, without yarn-strands on the back-side
of work. Swatch with one color, to get the hang of it. Search the net for video-tut to see the st live!
The following tutorial is worked equal for all sizes, regardless the # of sts you have on the last round.
Work in the Bst-lps of last round.
1 2 3 4 5 6
1. On last round 2. Ch 3, add blue 3. Insert hk in 4. Insert hk in 5. Yo, pull thr next 6. Color-change
of stripes, add yarn. 3’rd, green ch, next st in basic 2 lps on hk = 2 scs on last 2 lps on
green yarn. pull thr a lp. work, pull thr lp. made. hk; Fetch new col
Insert hk in 2’nd Yo, pull thr 2 on BS of old col,
ch, pull thr lp. lps on hk = 1 sc always!
made.
The horizontal st-loops which this special-st is based on. Clearly visible on the pics 13-17.
7 8 9 10 11 12
*
*
7. Yo, and pull 8. Next row; 9. ..insert hk in 10. ...pull thr lp. 11. Insert hk in 12. Rep step 4 and 6.
thr last 2 lps insert hk in 1’st 2’nd horiz lp next st in basic-
on hk = 3 scs horiz lp, pull work, pull thr lp. Repeat the steps
made. thr lp... from 8-12, switching
Note the 2 color on every row.
horizontal sts
lps * below
the hook.
Closing Linked Trs on the Round
13 14 15 16 17
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13. Finishing the 14. .... and pull yrn 15. Insert the hk here*, 16. Insert the hk 17. Add new col for
round, located in step thr 1 lp on hk. see pic 13. yo........ in last, green lp. next round, closing
10, insert the hk here* Pull yrn thr 2 lps on hk. the Linked Tr-round.
yo............ Ch 1.
Do you think this was tricky?
Alternative; Work 3 rounds scs, alternating the 2 colors!

5
FINISHING THE TOE-PIECE
All sizes works 6 rounds on their sts to finish the toe-piece; 2 rounds Red (Round 1 in Bst-lps of the Ltrs!),
1 round Blue, 1 round Peach, 2 rounds Yellow. Pic 7.
Adjust the length of your toe-piece if you like, by adding or subtracting colors/rounds.
Changing color on almost every round (and following rows, on foot-piece), will create a terrible mess of
yarn-tails!
We’ll make life easier to ourselves, by working in each and every yarn-tail on this project, finishing the
slippers tail-free! Nothing fancy, just remember to look for a tail on BS of work when you start and finish a
round/row. Leave at least 2-3 inch tails, changing color. Work tails in with about 6-8 sts.
SIMPLE RULES FOR WORKING IN YARN-TAILS
1 2 PULL 3
1. Always work in the tail from pre 2. Pull slightly tails, after worked 3. If you have a color repeating in
vious round/row. The tails for this in. To stretch out the yarn, and to a few rows, leave it behind.
round/row, is worked in on next tighten the st in the end of tail. As the blue color on round 3.
round/row.
4 5 6
*
4. Red start-tail worked in *. 5. Red round 2 finished. Working 6. Cut the worked-in tails with
Closing round, include the blue in the finishing tail, with blue yarn. a tiny distance to the fabric. The
yarn you are carrying along. little tassel will pull into the fabric,
wearing the slipper. After a while,
7 you can check the inside, and cut
clean visible tails.
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7. Finished toe-piece. Already

taken shape of my left foot!
TIP: Trying your work on one
of your feet, keep to this foot
throughout the project.
Cotton-yarn shapes nicely!

6
FOOT-PIECE
1 MF
ABOUT MF-MARK
You have probably noticed how your entire toe-piece twists slightly towards right.
It’s quite awkward. There are methods for how to work straight sc-joinings, but
for this project it’s not very important, it will straighten up eventually!
However, I normally just place my toe-piece flat down, and find my own MF-mark,
without counting! Red pin, pic 1. See also st-chart at p 15 for MF/MB-Marks.
MARKING INSTEP IN FRONT
Size Small still has: 28 sts, Size Medium: 32 sts, Size Large: 36 sts, and
Size XL has: 40 sts.
The opening for the instep in front:
Size S; 11 sts = 5 sts on each side of MF-Mark = 17 sts for Foot-Piece.
Size M; 13 sts = 6 sts on each side of MF-Mark = 19 sts for Foot-Piece.

2
Size L; 15 sts = 7 sts on each side of MF-Mark = 21 sts for Foot-Piece.
Size XL; 17 sts = 8 sts on each side of MF-Mark = 23 sts for Foot-Piece.
NOTE: The above distribution of sts for the 4 sizes, are indicative. My size L,
has the indicated # of sts, see pics. The sides can seem short, but the fabric
stretches, and the edging will add about 1/2 inch to the foot-width.
If you like taller sides, no problem. Just decide your own number of sts on
the front (odd #), and continue work as following instructions!
FOOTPIECE Row 2: Work in tails! Scs across. This row is

worked on the BS. Working scs forth and back,
Now the work starts, to shape the foot-piece creates distinct ridges. I don’t like that for this
and heel. project. Working “purled” scs on the BS, will make
See How to start and finish the colored sc-rows the sts look as on the round! Your choice!
in a neat way, on p 12. See tut below for how to.
See p 12, pic 4-5, how to avoid “purling” on BS,
Row 1: Adjoin Red yarn in the st next to your left SM, at least on rows with new col in each row!
Pic 1. Ch 1, work scs across, stop next to SM in
opposite side. Pic 2. Work scs on your sts, until you reach 1/2 foot-
Change to Green yrn on last sc, pic 2. length.
Turn all rows CCW, ch 1. See how to measure 1/2 foot-length on pic 1,
= S: 17 sts, M: 19 sts, L: 21 sts, XL: 23 sts. next page.
See also the colored rows on entire foot-piece,
pics 2-3 next page, for you to copy if you like.
HOW TO “PURL” SCS ON BACK-SIDE OF WORK
Avoid the ridged stripes working forth and back. Achieve a look as for scs on the round. See pics next p..
1 2 3 4
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1. Turn CCW, ch 1 facing 2. Yo with hook on top 3. Yo with hook 4. Pull through the 2 lps on hook on
the BS of work. In next st, of yarn. Pull through st. under the yarn. BS of work. You’ll get the hang of it!
insert the hook in the sc Repeat for the row, and all BS-rows.
as usual, but from BS, with
the yarn in front of hook. Tip: Work last st on all BS-rows as a RS-st! Easier. See How too on p 12, pic 1-3.

7
CONTINUE THE FOOT-PIECE
Increasing start at 1/2 foot length.

1
I reached my 1/2 foot-length after 9 rows. See how to
measure on pic1. Stretch piece slightly.
Find your MB-Mark according to your no of sts.
S: 17 sts, M: 19 sts, L: 21 sts, XL: 23 sts.

Increase 2 sts (2 scs in 1 st, twice) on the soles MB, with
a distance of S: 3, M: 5, L: 7, XL: 9 sts = 1, 2, 3, 4 sts on
each side of MB-Mark. White circles on Pic 2.

Heel-Mark *
1/2 Foot-Length
Continue your color-work across.
Measure 1/2 Foot-Length. No need of ruler!
On last row before you have reached your heel-mark *,

When to start for heel; Just below your ankle.
make 2 more increasings, in the same manner as above.
If you like a taller heel-piece, make 3 increases (6 sts),

increasing 2 more sts, between the 2 increase-rows!
Before the black and white heel-piece start, there is the row with Linked
Trs, which is wide as 3 rows normal scs.
Include these sts measuring for heel-start.
NOTE: The Linked Trs are worked on RS of work, in Bst-lps of your last
colored row.
On pic 2, the RS, and pic 3; toe and inside of slipper, you see the com
plete foot-piece, before the heel starts. Use these images to copy the
colored rows if you like. Note the tail-free sides!
Finishing the Linked Trs, adjoin

4 MB/Heel
black yarn on RS of work, to start
the heel-piece.
Work the 1’st row in Bst-lps.
Work rows across your sts, alternat 2
ing black and white yarn, until full
foot-length is achieved. See how to
measure on pic 5 below.
Not to brake yarn on each row;
Purl on BS.
According to instruction’s increasings, you now have:

S: 21 sts, M: 23 sts, L: 25 sts, XL: 27 sts.
Make markings for the middle 7 sts, 3 sts on each side of MB-mark,
equal for all sizes. See pic 4.
5
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Full Foot-Lenght; 3
Achieved when you’ve bearly reach the back of
your foot, stretching the foot-piece slightly!
8
HEEL Mid-Back Heel
You have: S: 21 sts, M: 23 sts, L: 25 sts, XL: 27 sts on your last MB-seam to
close heel
row. See below, and chart for decreasing. R2 R3 R1 start
See Stitch-symbols on p 14. R 1: XL: On 27 sts
R 1: L: On 25 sts
No of sts included turning-chs!
R 1: M: On 23 sts
R 1: S: On 21 sts
START DECREASING FOR HEEL
Row 1: Work S: 6, M: 7, L: 8, XL: 9 sts; 1 sc2tog, 5 scs under heel
(2 sts on each side of MB), 1 sc2tog.
Finish row with; S: 6, M: 7, L: 8, XL: 9 sts. Turn.
You have: S:19, M:21, L:23, XL:25 sts on the row.
Row 2: Work S: 6, M: 7, L: 8, XL: 9 sts; 1 sc2tog, 3 scs under heel
(1 st on each side of MB), 1 sc2tog.
Finish row with; S: 6, M: 7, L: 8, XL: 9 sts. Turn.
You have: S:17, M:19, L: 21, XL:23 sts on the row. Mid-Back-Sole
Row 3: Work S: 6, M: 7, L: 8, XL: 9 sts; 1 sc2tog, 1 sc under heel,
1 sc2tog. Finish row with; S: 6, M: 7, L: 8, XL: 9 sts. HEEL CHART:
You have: S:15, M:17, L: 19, XL: 21 sts on the row. Check your Mid-Sole-Mark;
S: 10, M: 11, L: 12, XL: 13 sts, on each
CLOSING HEEL MB: side of MB-Mark.
Fold piece inside/out, MB to MB. Work
1 2
with “next-row”-color.
Sew the remaining sts tog with yarn-
needle and Stitch-Seam, see p 14, or
with hook and sl sts. Insert needle/
hook in both lps on sts.
Work tog S: 5, M: 6, L: 7, XL: 8 sts.
Cut yarn with long tail, pull the last sts
tog with the yarn needle, fasten well.
FINISHED! Pic 1 and 2.
EDGING THE SHOES

Stitch-Seam
The finishing sl st-edging of the shoes, is part of the
final look. Creates a distinct color separation + a 1
straight out-line, adjusting the ups and downs on
your work! Pic 2.
1: Adjoin yellow yarn in the base of the 1’st sc in the
side, pic 1.
Work 1 round sl sts in the very top of the edge. Include
*
2 yarn-strands/st-lps, for sturdier edge.
It’s very important that you do not tighten these sts!
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The shoe will curve, and the instep will be too small.
Work with 1 size larger hook if it makes it easier.
I had about 1 sl st in every- to every 2’nd, sc-row.

2
Adjust.
2. Close with sl st in base of last sc in side, pic 2.
Cut yarn, pull tail thr lp, fasten well.
FASTEN ALL LEFT-OVER TAILS BEFORE YOU CONTINUE.

9
FINISHING SC-EDGE, AND CORDS
If you like your new slippers without cords, with only a last sc-edge, see pics 1-3 below.
If you like cords with ball-embellish, you need to learn the Fsl st, (Foundation sl st) first. See Tutorial below.
BLUE SC-EDGE
As you see on pic 1 below, I started the edge adding the blue yarn in the green/blue Linked Tr-section.
That is OK if you finish your slippers with this round. For cords, please adjoin yarn in front of the LTr-section,
see marking in pic 1 *. This to avoid the closing-st, attaching the cords.
1 2 3
* *
R 2: Adjoin blue yarn* on slipper’s inside-foot, see marking on pic 1. Work 1 sc in every sl st’s Bst-lps
around. In both corners*; Work 1 sc2tog in the last st on shoe-side/1’st st on top/front. Pic 2.
Repeat the other way around in the opposite corner. Close round with sl st in ch on start of round pic 3.
PREPARE FOR ATTACHING THE CORDS
You have to mirror the attaching for left and right slipper. On left slipper you start on the inside heel, work
a few sts, and continue on the cord. On left slipper outside heel, the cord is worked first, then adjoined
to the slipper-heel.
On the right slipper, you work the other way around; start on outside heel, working the cord. On inside
heel, working the cord first, attaching it to the heel.
See next page for How To, and drawing showing the attachments!
HOW TO CROCHET A FSL-ST (FOUNDATION SL ST) CORD

1 2 3 4 5
1. Ch 2 2. Insert the hook 3. .....under both st 4. Yo, pull through yarn. 5. Yo, pull through
into 1’st ch.... loops. Do this in two Lift the loop to same both loops on hook.
moves, easier. height as lp on hook. 1 sl st incl ch, made!
6 7 8 9 10
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6. Repeat from step 7. Yo, pull through 8. Lift the loop to 9. Yo, pull through 10. Repeat steps
3; Insert hook under yarn. same height as lp on both loops on hook. 6-10, to the cord-
both st-lps on ch hook. length you need.
just made.

10
ATTACHING THE CORDS
1 2
As indicated on prev page, the cords are attached in opposite manner on
left and right foot.
Find your MB-Mark. It can happen (as it did for me!) that the real MB; the
middle of the heel-seam, has moved! The foot’s shape, and the sl st-edg
ing, can have pulled the MB-mark out of center. I choose to make a new
mark, if not, it looks like the cords are attached to the side.
1 2 1 2
CORD ON LEFT SIDE OF RIGHT AND LEFT SHOE
1 1
MB MB
As first, work 2 cords in 2 different colors, as long as you want them.
Mine are 20 inches long (50 cm). See tut prev page.
Keep 4-in-tails in ends for attaching balls.
Finishing cords; keep last st-loop open.

Left Right
1 2 3 4 5
1. Insert hook in 3’rd sc 2. Insert the hook un 3. ...and pull yrn 1. Work scs in next 1. Finish with sl st
left of MB-Mark. Fetch der the last ch-st made through cord and sts. above the Ltr-sec
the last cord-loop, pull on the cord, see arrow loop on hook tion. Fasten well.
it through the st. on pic 1. Yo...........
CORD ON RIGHT SIDE OF RIGHT AND LEFT SHOE 2 2
1 2 3 4 5
1. Add yarn in st 2. Ch 1 3. Work scs on the sts 4. Insert the hook into 5. Continue working
above the Ltr-sec- to a distance of 2 sts the middle of last sc the cord according
tion. from MB-Mark. (2 st-lps). Yo, pull yarn to the tutorial, to the
thr. You are now in length you had for the
step 9 and 10 on the first, 2 cords.
cord-tut on p 7.
All 4 cords finished, its time to embellish them with

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little crochet balls. Next page.
A real scrap-shoe! My last blue left-overs went into

this cord.

11
HOW TO MAKE CROCHET BALLS
Work with 1/2 - 1 size smaller hook than for the slippers.
Start with the color you want for the top of the ball.
1 2 3 4 5
1. In a yarn-ring, work 2. Close in 3’rd ch 3. Ch 3, work 1 dc in 4. Insert the hook 5. Pull cord-tail thr gap.
3 ch, 11 dcs = 12 sts. on start of R, adding each dc around. Cut thr the gap from The 1’st st on cord will
Pull tail to close ring. new col with the sl st. 4 in tail, close R with below. Fetch the end up inside ball. Pull
Leave a small gap. sl st, pull tail thr loop. tail of the cord. yarn-ring-tail hard to
close gap.
6 7 8 9 10
6. Make a firm ball 7. Pull tail from last 8. Pull tail hard to 9. Make 2 tight knots 10. Cut tails to a short
of scrap-scrap. R dcs, thr every 2’nd close the ball. around all the rest tassel. Finished!
Push it inside the Fst-lps on dcs. of the tails, with the 3 to go, repeat all
ball. cord-tail, and the above with other
last-R-tail. color-combinations!
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12
HOW TO CHANGE COLOR + START AND FINISH A SC-ROW TO ACHIEVE STRAIGHT, EVEN AND NEAT SIDES
There is a lot of techniques around, for how to change colors on the row, and how to start and finish the sc
rows to achieve straight sides.
You have already learned how to work in the yarn-tails, and how to “purl” scs on BS of work.
Without the normal forth-and-back ridges, we can change color, starting on RS every time! That is, if you
have 1-color-rows. With 2 rows of the same color, you have to “purl” back, see tut p 6.
This is how I work colored stripes:
Step 1-3; Normally the best way yo finish a sc-row, and to change yarn. Remember to work in all tails on BS
1 2 3 4 5
RS RS RS
RS
RS
1. Always turning 2. Pull thr yrn, yo, 3. Changing yarn; As 4. Changing col on 5. Add new col on
rows CCW, you’ll and finish the last usual, on last draw- every row; Work on RS like this, inserting
have 2 obvious lps sc. Ch 1, and turn through. Ch 1, turn RS only. Finish each hook into 1 side-st
to insert the hook in, CCW. CCW, “purl” across BS. row with hook in step and the 1’st st on row.
for the last st on row. 2, yo, finish st, cut Ch 1.
yarn, pull tail thr loop.
When you have 2 rows in the same col, you have to work row 2 across on BS.
6 7 8 9 10 11
*
* BS
*
BS
BS BS RS
BS
6. Purling across 7. Insert the hook 8. ....pull yrn thr. 9. ....you have 10. Ch 1, turn CCW. 11. Work your row
BS, I prefer finish in-betw the 2 last This way the tail 2 nice sts *, on RS. Finish as
like step 4..... lps *......... keeps on BS, easily pic 8, to adjoin step 2 and 4.
worked in, and.... new color in!
This way of working colored rows across, + working in the tails on BS as you go,
gives quite nice sides. The slipper is ready for edging.
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13
1
CONGRATULATIONS!
I hope you are happy with
your new slippers!
1. The basic slippers fresh off the hook!
2. Handmade tailored insoles. Note the cute labels inside the slippers! Great gift-idea.
3. Tailored Cord-Soles attached.
With insoles and out-soles, the slippers are turned into street-shoes! Just wonderful to walk and wear!
2 3
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14
Terms and
Crochet Terms
Abbreviations
*--* = repeat from * - to* British English American English
[--] = sts worked in same group/st/loop
Yo = yarn over hook Slip stitch (sl st) Slip stitch (sl st)
Yrn = Yarn Chain stitch (ch) Chain stitch (ch)
HK = Hook Double crochet (dc) Single crochet (sc)
R = round Half treble (htr) Half double crochet (hdc)
St = stitch Treble crochet (tr) Double crochet (dc)
Sts = stitches Double treble crochet (dtr) Treble crochet (tr)
St-sp = stitch space Cast off Bend off / fasten off
Decr = Decrease Tension Gauge
Incr =Increase
Lp(s) = Loop(s) Crochet hook Conversion chart
Betw = between
European UK size US size
Thr = Through
Metric
Prev = previous
Tog = together
2 mm 14 B/1
P = page
2.5 m 12 C/2
FS = Front side
3 mm 11 D/3
BS = Back side Stich seam
3.5 mm 9 E/4
RS = Right side
4 mm 8 G/6
MF = Mid front mark
4.5 mm 7 7
MB = Mid back mark
5 mm 6 H/8
SM = Side mark
Stitches in this pattern SUGGESTIONS FOR ALTERNATIVE COLOR
. sl st = Slip Stitch COMBINATIONS FOR THE SLIPPERS
ch = Chain stitch
sc = Single crochet
sc2tog = Single crochet two together.
The decrease stitch.
Insert hook in next stitch, yo and pull up loop
(2 loops on hook), insert hook in next stitch, yo
and pull up loop (3 loops on hook), yo and draw
through all 3 loops on hook =1 stitch decreased.
Bst-lp = Back stitch loop
Fst-lp = Front stitch loop
Special Stitches:
Fsl st = Foundation sl st. See tutorial at p 9.
©
Lsc = Linked single crochet. See tut at p 4.

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15
STITCH-CHART TOE-PIECE - ALL SIZES
Black Sc-symbol = Black stripes on toe-piece

Yellow Sc-Symbol = White stripes on toe-piece
Purple Sc-symbol = The side-sts
Red Sc-symbol = Increasing-sts in the sides
Green Sc-symbol = Indicates the sts on opposite side of foundation chains
Foundation chains
Sl st for closing Rounds
Black Ch-symbol = Start Black stripes on toe-piece
Yellow Ch-Symbol = Start White stripes on toe-piece
Mid-Back/
Sole
Work Rounds on toe-piece: Stop increasing when you have:

# Rounds # Sts
XL R 13 =40
L R 12 =40 XL
M R 11 =36
S R 10 =36 L
R9 =32
R8 =32 M
R7 =28
R6 =28 S
R5 =24
R4 =24
R3 =20
R2 =20
SM SM©
start R 1=16 sts

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Mid-Top Toe

Zapatilla Crochet

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Purchased by: FINA ANCIN. 04/01/2015. Purchased at AnniesCatalog.com. Copying and distribution prohibited. For personal use only.

Happy Scrap Slippers

BASIC SLIPPER PATTERN

Copyright © 2015-2016 - All rights reserved by PDF PatternDesign

Happy Scrap Slippers

or any hook size to obtain the gauge and size

18 scs x 20 rows = 4 inch square (10x10 cm)

Sizes: Small - Medium - Large - Extra Large

THE BASIC SLIPPERS

Stitches used in this pattern:

happy summer slippers!

I bet the most of you yarn-people out there, have

a lot of annoying leftovers, yarn from various

projects, tiny yarn-balls stashed away, just in case!

These one-piece, toe-up slippers are a perfect

project to get rid of some of the smallest balls.

It was great fun! The final result is amazing, they

give me a real happy summer-feeling! Looks great

I can see the shoes in endless color-combinations;

find your stash-box, and choose your favorite

See Suggestions for Color Combinations p 14.

Remember; Crochet-fabric is stretchy, don’t make your

As all my crochet slippers, also this pair is turned

All you need is to apply an in- and an out-sole

to the slippers! And finally, adding treatment to

More info on p 13.

Let’s start with the basic slipper instruction.

Heel to toe: 9 1/4 - 9 3/4 in (24-25 cm)

In instruction sizes are written like this:

TIP: Use highlighter to mark your size’s info!

Instruction Happy Scrap Slippers

All pictures in this instruction, is of size L.

Stitches used in this pattern: See terms/conversions at p 14.

START ROUND 1 HERE

Yarn-tail to start foundation-chains

Follow toe-piece st-chart at p 15 as you work the rounds.

You have incr 4 sts = 20 sts.

R 3: All Sizes: White yarn: Work scs around; 20 sts.

Alternate white and black yarn on all rows to follow.

R 4-7: All Sizes: Repeat round 2 and 3.

You have: R4 = 24 sts, R 5 = 24 sts, R 6 = 28 sts, R 7 = 28 sts.

Size M: R 8-11: Continue repeating round 2 and 3 for full toe-piece

length = Round 11. R 8 = 32 sts, R 9 = 32 sts, R 10-11 = 32 sts

Size L: R 8-12: Continue repeating round 2 and 3 for full toe-piece

length = Round 12. R 8 = 32 sts, R 9 = 32 sts, R 10 = 36 sts,

length = Round 13. R 8 = 32 sts, R 9 = 32 sts, R 10 = 36 sts,

R 11= 36 sts, R 12 = 40 sts, R 13 = 40 sts.

Copyright © 2015-2016 - All rights reserved by PDF PatternDesign

Do you think this was tricky?

Alternative; Work 3 rounds scs, alternating the 2 colors!

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1 round Blue, 1 round Peach, 2 rounds Yellow. Pic 7.

SIMPLE RULES FOR WORKING IN YARN-TAILS

7. Finished toe-piece. Already

Copyright © 2015-2016 - All rights reserved by PDF PatternDesign

MARKING INSTEP IN FRONT

Size XL has: 40 sts.

The opening for the instep in front:

Size S; 11 sts = 5 sts on each side of MF-Mark = 17 sts for Foot-Piece.

Size M; 13 sts = 6 sts on each side of MF-Mark = 19 sts for Foot-Piece.

the front (odd #), and continue work as following instructions!

FOOTPIECE Row 2: Work in tails! Scs across. This row is

HOW TO “PURL” SCS ON BACK-SIDE OF WORK

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