Professional Documents
Culture Documents
(chocolate) lovers
Starting this month, we're featuring a handful of our newest,
most delectable chocolate finds from around the country, across
the globe, and right next door. They range from inventive truffles
made by the coolest new chocolatier tearing up the chocolate
scene in Detroit, to gorgeous French milk chocolate "sardines"
nestled in a handsome tin, to jalepeno dusted chocolate covered
corn nuts. When the chocolates sell out, that's it, they're gone.
Check 'em out quick.
Its hard not to gush about Detroit's coolest new chocolatiers, BonBonBon. In one short year BonBonBon has
gone from a little kitchen to three retail stores and loads
of praise from across the food and design world. Inside
the quirky yet elegantly simple packaging are four orange boxes holding the bon bons. Each box is labeled for
its flavors: #19 Mac & Cheese, #14 Black Truffle, #41 Whiskey Lullabye and #94 Pa Nang. Each bon bon is a thin
chocolate cup holding the different fillings of ganache
that live up to the intrigue and creativity of their names.
Any choco-phile on your list will lose their bon bons if
you sent them these.
februaRy is dEclARED
ROCKY RIDE
GIANDUJA
A rich blend of dark chocolate and hazelnutthis is an
Italian classic!
TURTLE
Our version of the classic
melds Scharffen Berger
cocoa with dulce de leche
from Argentina and great
Georgia pecans butterroasted by us!
CHOCOLATE BALSAMIC
STRAWBERRY
Michigan strawberries
macerated in a balsamic
reduction and folded
throughout our
award-winning dark
chocolate gelato
CHOCOLATE HEAT
Inspired by the fantastic
chocolate of Mexico, this is
our dark chocolate gelato
with ancho chiles,
cinnamon, pepper, and just
enough cayenne pepper to
make it interesting.
$3.25/short, $4.00/tall
Our classic hot cocoa made with our
housemade chocolate syrup featuring
Scharffen Berger cocoa powder and
topped with your choice of whipped
cream or a marshmallow handmade by
Zingerman's Candy Manufactory.
ISSUE # 254
JAN-FEB 2016
I met Glenn Roberts, the man behind Anson Mills, early on in my foray into Southern food and cooking. Like us, hes been a huge supporter of Southern Foodways. Our connection came specifically through my study of grits. In my effort to find good ones, I called
John T. Edge, who suggested I check out Glenns product. Fifteen years later hes still one of the people who inspires me almost
every day with the quality and care of his work, the benefits of which Iand youcan taste any time we want just by driving
over to the Deli or the Roadhouse. Or, if youre like me, you can appreciate his work in your kitchen at home toojust set aside
some time to cook up some of the seriously delicious things we buy from him. What we buy from Glenn has redefined the
category for me. Amazing grains, with histories so long they make the Daughters of the Ameican Revolution look like recent
invaders (which, by the way, when you start American history from a Native perspective, they actually are.), these traditional
full flavored foods, heirloom varieties of grits, rice, wheat, field peas, and now, Glenns most recent revelation16th century sesame seeds that trace their roots back to West Africa.
The man himself is much harder to categorize than his products. His two decades of work starting and developing Anson
Mills are more than enough to make a mark in the world. Based on what he does today I dont think anyone would guess
even a fraction of Glenns varied background. He grew up in San Diego. Studied music and science in Chapel Hill. Flew jets
in the Air Force, ran restaurants, rode dressage horses, drove semi-trailers and, it seems, about a dozen and a half other
things. Hes more high energy than almost anyone I met. Ive learned so much from him about grits and other Southern
grains, as well as science and culture, that when I hear him talk I feel like I know only slightly more than nothing. If you
want to know what kind of corn was being grown in the winters in Western Tennessee in the 18th century, or how much rice
could be pounded on an autumn afternoon on a farm 85 miles east of Charleston, hes pretty surely the guy to go to. On top
of all that, hes exceptionally kind and extremely generous. He actively supports Southern Foodways, shares experience with
people others would close out as competitors, works nearly non-stop to see his mission accomplished. And oh yeah, he gives
away tons of seed that he worksat great costto grow.
All that aside, what makes Glenns work so meaningful here is how incredibly good it actually tastes. Flavor makes this far
more than an academic exercise in culinary anthropology. You cant, after all, eat good intentions or powerpoint presentations.
Literally, every single one of the two dozen grains Ive tried from Glenns ever longer list is terrfic. And I dont say that lightly. If
youre interested in traditional full-flavored corn, old school rice varieties, 17th century field peas or that sort of thingand I totally
amany product from Anson Mills will probably make your day. Its special stuff in every sense of the word.
TRUE GRITS
I originally got going on grits at a conference on American
food in Washgington D.C., oh, about twenty years or so ago.
I went to a breakout session to hear John Taylor, one of the
more passionate speakers and writers I know on the subject
of South Carolina and its native cuisine. (Hes actually incorporated South Carolina coastal culture into his namehe goes by
Hoppin John.) As always, John gave an engaging talk on the
state of authentic Southern food, including a section on grits.
With a look to both personal and social history, he related the
sad decline of old-style grits in the second half of the 20th century. How pretty much everyone in the South at that point had
kind of compromised their way down to using instant or quick
cooking grits: These commercial grits don't have any integrity, he spat out in his South Carolina accent. They're terrible. But, he went on, as part of his fight against the erosion of
the kind of high quality food he'd grown up with, he'd gone out
and gotten a small mill to grind good grits to his specs.
When I got back to Ann Arbor from the conference, I picked
up the phone and ordered a few bags of Johns old school
grits. Two weeks later they arrived. Curious, I poured them
out to inspect them. They were coarsely cut bits of dried white
corn, maybe a millimeter across, with tiny dark dots at the
end of most of the grains. The color surprised me since I'd
always imagined corn as the yellow color Id grown up with
in Chicago. I cooked them up that night, following the recipe
on the bag. Mix with water, bring to a boil, stir off and on for
an hour, then serve 'em with a knob of soft butter and plenty
of salt and pepper on top. If youve never had em, imagine
a bowl of wonderful, snow white cooked corn porridge, liberally laced with tiny brown specs of bran and germ, a small
bit of golden butter melted over top, sprinkled with sea salt
and coarse ground black pepper. I think I served them on the
side of some broiled fish. They were great! Despite my limited
understanding of Southern cooking, I was clearly hooked.
I was so psyched about discovering this great new product
that I couldn't wait to bring it to the Deli to sell and serve.
So I dug up Johns phone number and dialed him up in South
Carolina. Told him how much Id enjoyed both his talk and his
grits (though I don't think I had the guts to tell him it was the
first time I'd eaten them). Went on to explain that I wanted to
order them in quantity to sell in our shop up in Michigan. Now,
having made similar phone calls a few thousand times over
the years, I can tell you that most folks are excited when they
ISSUE # 254
JAN-FEB 2016
COOKING GRITS
A) Ratios; Thoughts on Appropriate
Levels of Liquidity
Nearly every Southerner who gives a grit seems to have at
least one strong opinion (if not two or three) on the best way
to prepare them. The first bone of contention is the ratio of
water to dry grits you should use. I figured that Id get a good
sense of the proper proportions by reading instructions on the
backs of all the bags of grits Id collected. Unfortunately, just
about every mill offers a different ratio. A lot suggest 4 cups
liquid to 1 cup of grits. But others say 3 to 1, and others still
start out at 5 to 1. Obviously the lower the proportion of water
you put in the pot, the less liquid the grits will be when theyre
done. Conversely, more water means runnier grits. Ultimately
its your call. Me, Ive settled on about 4 to 1. But remember,
good grits are a perishable agricultural products: different
mills make different grits and a given batch from a given mill
may cook up quite a bit differently than the previous pot.
I dont know why it is, but to me grits are always better when
you cook them with butter in the pot. Its strange because I
dont like butter added up front to Italian polenta dishes.
Maybe its all mental. But for grits cooking, Im pretty adamant
that putting a nice sized knob of butter in right off the bat,
along with pepper and salt will get you a better tasting batch
of grits.
D) A Heavy Pot
Because they take so long to cook, its important to do your grit
cooking in a heavy bottomed pot. Thats the only way I know
to prevent your grits from burning if you step away for a few
moments.
Leftover Grits
As long as you're going to such lengths to cook good grits, I'll
tell you up front that it's worth cooking more than you need;
there's a whole range of recipes based on the leftovers that are
worth exploring. For starters, yesterdays grits can be fried up
in slices like polenta. My friend Melanie told me, "You put your
extra grits in a glass. And then when they're cool you can slide
'em out and slice 'em and fry 'em up for a side dish." You can
toss the slices in egg wash and then in cornmeal before you fry
them. Serve 'em with a bit more butter on top. Leftovers can
also be made into what Southerners refer to as Owendaw or
Awendaw bread, by blending the leftover grits with uncooked
grits, eggs, milk, butter, salt and pepper and then baking in
a hot skillet. Somebody else told me that they made griddle
cakes out of a batter of cooked grits, cornmeal, eggs, milk and
butter, and ate them hot topped off with a bit more butter and
molasses. At the Roadhouse we serve slices of grilled grits,
topped off with sauteed onions, corn and chiles.
Cheese Grits
Cheese grits are pretty standard stuff in the South. All you need
is a good sharp cheddar and some good grits. When the grits
are just about done, grate in a good dose of the cheese. Finish
with the usual butter, salt and pepper. I like them prepared
simply like this but there are, of course, a thousand other versions as well. Author and food historian John T. Edge mentions
that a more rarefied version of the dish adds beaten eggs and
calls for finishing the dish off in the oven. There are of course
ISSUE # 254
JAN-FEB 2016
Of course, getting the seed straight is only the start. The soil
has to be as well kept as the seed varieties. One big piece of
making that happen is staying away from industrial pesticidesall the Anson growers are certified organic. But good
farming is more than just an absence of artificial additives.
Theres a big piece of diversity thats gone missing during the
course of the 20th century.
What Glenn is working on is to get farmers to grow multiple
species in the same field at the same time. What theyre finding is fascinatingpolycropping of this sort is resulting in better soil health, better overall yields, a longer (hence easier to
manage, if still never easy) harvest cycle. And, interestingly,
better flavor. The root systems influence each other, Glenn
told me. What happens underground is changing the flavor
of the plants that appear above the soil. Weve completely
lost this with modern monocropping. This is a huge insight, a
return to the old ways thats delivering new levels of flavor to
21st century consumers. It means that even a whole field of a
single heirloom seed variety will pretty certainly not taste as
good as that same seed variety grown in a field intermingled
with half a dozen different crops. This behind the scenesor
more accurately, undergroundfield work is contributing
considerably to the flavor of Anson Mills products.
The result of all this work is a sustainability in the truest sense
of the word. Its not just about being environmentally neutral.
Causing no harm is nice. But this is about adding value, not just
for the financial statements, but for everyone and everything
element of the equation. People, products, soil, flavor, history,
culture, education. And eating.
ISSUE # 254
JAN-FEB 2016
In the old days milling was done locally, and done with freshly
harvested or naturally dried and stored intact grains. Corn
ground for gritsalthough dried in the fieldwas still alive
and could still be used as seed corn because its enzymes were
still intact. It was, as a result, also much, much more flavorful. By contrast, modern commercial milling now kills the corn
completely. Corn is steamed to get the hulls off, germ (the oil)
is totally taken out (and in the process most all of the flavor),
then its milled at ambient temperature with steel roller mills
and then packed and set into the distribution chain for a few
years before being cooked up to the rather tasteless paste
that most people nowadays associate with grits. The difference between the old, living, new crop grits and industrial
offerings is night and day. The name is the same but the two
taste totally different.
One way that Glenn has been able to make this work so well is
by working with geographical diversity in farming. By having
farmers growing from the northern parts of the continent all
the way to the southernmost, harvests are spread throughout
most of the year. If each farm has two to three crops to harvest per year that spreads the availabilty through a significant
part of the calendar. That work is enhanced through the use
of a technology that wasnt available to Native growersthe
freezer. Grains can be stored after harvest in deep frozen
state protecting their natural oils. All of which allows Anson
Mills to leave the grains natural germ intact, radically enhancing the flavor. Most commercial milled corn or rice has the
germ removed, which extends shelf life, allows the producer
to sell the oil as a byproduct, and makes the grits and rice
shelf stable, but diminishes flavor drastically. As a result, good
grits and good rice (like these) are a fresh productwe ship
and store them refrigerated. If they were to sit at room temperature the way industrial products do theyd probably be
rancid in a matter of days. Instead theyre alive and so much
more flavorful!
At one time small, local milling was the norm in the American
South. Dan Barber writes that, In 1840 there was one mill for
every 700 Americans. In 1800 there were 40 mills per county
in the Carolinas alone. Today there are maybe a dozen mills
doing anything resembling old-style grits milling in the whole
country.
A big part of what makes Anson Mills products so exceptional is the cold milling process that Glenn uses. Everything
is designed to keep temperatures down and in the process
protect the flavor of the corn (or the rice). First of all the
dried corn is taken down to -10F before the milling begins.
Second the entire mill room and the stones are kept at 55F.
That means that the corn during the milling stays very cool
never gets above 58F. By contrast mass market milling basically cooks the corn during the milling, killing all the live
enzymes and most of the flavor (it does however sit well on
the shelf for years). Anson Mills pumps carbon dioxide into
the mill in order to keep oxygen off of the corn, preventing
oxidation and protecting flavor (this is much the same as is
done with wine by using nitrogen).
Ansons grits are milled very coarse by modern standards,
then sifted into four different sized particles (aka fractions).
The different particle sizes are then blended to get the right
ratio of coarseness and fineness that creates a great eating
experience.
'
Its frightening to find out how much biodiversity has been
lost in the last century. Glenn is single handedly doing his
best to reverse that flow, at least in the world of North
American grains. So when we buy a product from Anson
Mills,a good part of what were paying for is protection for
posteritythe insurance that your children and grandchildren will be able to eat and enjoy the same great flavors
we can today, and that the ecosystem will benefit from that
diversity in the process. One way that Glenn does that is to
require that they always have on hand enough of any given
seed variety for four seasons. That may sound like a lot until
Glenn explained to me that that really means four plantings. And that in years like this last one where weather can
take out two or three crops in a single summer, replantings
follow immediatelyfarmers need to live. Which means
that three quarters of the seedstock was used up in a single
summer.
The prices for most corn products on the grocer's shelf are
low but so is flavor; the farmer, nutrition, and biodiversity are
all poorer for their work. What Glenn is working to do is the
oppositea system that generates health at every level. We
pay far more for the product itself but if you take the ecosystem and posterity into account were probably getting quite
a bargain. Heirloom varieties of the sort Anson Mills works
with generally yield about 1/4 to 1/3 of what commercial corn
will. Glenn explained that, between yield and risk of loss in
the field, the cost of producing these corns is about 4 to 12
times what it costs to produce commercial corn for grinding!
And remember thats only the cost of growing. We havent
even added costs for milling or for storing and shipping under
refrigeration the whole time.
The low-cost commercial model has contributed to the
impoverishment of small farmers, soil and spirit. The work
of Anson Mills is to reverse the flow. As Wendell Berry says,
we must learn to replace that standard with one that is
more comprehensive: the standard of nature. 'Sustainable
agriculture,"Berry writes, refers to a way of farming that can
be continued indefinitely because it conforms to the terms
imposed upon it by the nature of places and the nature of people. Whether its with mindset, money or milling, pretty much
everything Anson Mills does is the opposite of what mass market millers are doingstart with that standard of nature and
then work out from there in order to make what we want to
eat viable for the farmers and for the ages.
Doing all this right means higher cost. Theres just no way
around it. Lower yields. Cultural and agricultural restoration
work. Making sure to have sufficient seed for bio-safety. Fresh
crop milling. Germ left in. Handling and shipping in frozen or
refrigerated state. It all adds up to higher costs. We tell chefs
that this stuff is frighteningly expensive, Glenn says. Chefs
have to understand the cost of conservancy and research. But
even at ten times the normal cost, were offering them more
than just great-tasting rice and corn meal. Were sharing palate memory from antiquity.
At the end of the day if all of what Anson Mills was offering didnt taste really great, it would all just be a nice nonprofit project about seed preservation. But the reality is that
every single Anson Mills product Ive ever tasted is fantastic.
Delicious. Outstanding. Seriously, exceptionally good. Rodger
Bowser chef and co-managing partner at the Deli, has been
cooking here for twenty years. Hes tasted a lot! He said,
Anson Mills is one of those vendors that has products that
make you rethink or retry ingredients (as if) for the first time.
Most every chef you talk towhether its in the south or in San
Franciscowill say the same thing. When you buy Anson Mills
you know what youre gettingyoure paying a lot, but youre
buying some of the best, most carefully produced and most
flavorful grain products youll ever eat. This is all about changing our image of what cornmeal is aboutits not just something to provide texture or starch upon which other flavors
can be layered. It is, itself, the star of the culinary show. In
the New York Times a few years ago Glenn framed it it this way:
"Great corn is like great wine. I agree wholeheartedly.
Having been selling this great rice for the last ten years I
think that most everyone in the ZCoB is probably pretty familiar with the name Carolina Gold. But its got a pretty extensive background. Origins in Africa, grown using West African
methods, made into THE crop of South Carolina in the 18th
and 19th centuries; so prestigious it was sold to the royal
courts in London. The last commercial crop of this old, low
yield seed variety came in the late 1920s. For most of the 20th
century Carolina Gold was nothing more than a trademark
owned by a large rice company that didnt even grow Carolina
Gold rice but liked the name.
Seeds were found to restart it in the year 2000. Part of what
makes the Anson Mills offering so amazing is the milling
methodsAnson uses a special mill designed to do this rice
in a way that would emulate the 19th century hand pounding. The hand pounding was done right before the rice was
prepared, assuring an exceptional brightness of flavor. The
process also broke up the grains just a bit, altering the texture and eating experience of the rice in the process. Unlike
commercial rice polishing which takes out the germ and the
bran, the hand pound emulation leaves a bit of the bran
on the rice grains. Leaving the germ in enhances the flavor
enormously. As a result, this Carolina Gold is not enriched
as other American white rices are. (Because the germand
hence the rices natural oilis left in, the rice is a perishable
product and needs to be stored in the freezer or refrigerator.)
If you order any dish with rice on it at the Roadhouse this is
the rice youll get it. It doesnt look a whole lot different than
other white rice but its meatier, nuttier, satisfyingly complex.
At home you can do pretty much anything with this rice but
I lean towards just cooking it as simply as possible, which is
to make what was once known as Charleston Ice Cream.
Simply cooked rice served in a nice mounded white ice
cream scoop with a generous knob of soft butter set atop it
to melt dreamily down the sides.
To cook this rice, wash a cup of it in cold water three times.
Bring 2 cups of lightly salted water to a boil, add the rice, stir,
cover, reduce heat to low and cook for 13-15 minutes. Turn
off heat and let stand covered for another 13-15 minutes. Fluff
with a forkyoure not supposed to break the rice grains so
be gentleand serve in a scoop (so it looks like ice cream)
immediately with really good butter, preferably one of the
traditional ones we sell like the Vermont cultured butter
ANSON MILLS
CORN MEAL
FOR MAKING MUSH
Mush is the Blue Plate Special on the
Thursday mornings at the Roadhouse. Or
you can make it yourself at home. Either
way its delicious!
I want to make clear that the emphasis
here isnt really on mush for its own sake,
but specifically about mush made from
Anson Mills cornmeal. Since the dish is
just cornmeal, water and salt, its clearly
only as good as the corn that goes into
it. Ansons is (like everything else we get
from them) amazing; my fixation on the
dish is coming really only because the
corn meal were getting from Glenn at
Anson Mills is so incredibly good.
Its incredibly simple: Anson Mills cornmeal, cooked at a ratio
of about 4 parts water to 1 part cornmeal for an hour or so.
You can go somewhat shorter or definitely longerwith all
these corn porridges longer is almost always better if you
have the time, and if you cook slowly, the starches steadily
break down and you get a creamier, richer texture. Ansons
meal is made from six old varietals Leaming, Henry Moore,
Jarvis, Pencil Cob, Hickory King Yellow, John Haulk blend for
Antebellum Fine and Coarse Cornmeals. All six are dent corns
(which are softer in texture than the alternative, known as
flint corn). When it comes to flavor, floralwhich is what
Glenn says to describe itis the key word for me. Its aromatic. Delicious.
You can serve most anything with mush. It can be cooked up
with any sauted or roasted vegetable. My 1918 copy of The
Book of Corn Cookery gives recipes for mush with figs, dates,
and prunes. Its also good topped with honey and of course
with cheese. The book also has a buttermilk mush recipe
meal cooked in buttermilk instead of water in a double boiler.
Ive seen it done with greens and Ive got a Gullah recipe for
oyster mush that Im definitely going to try this week.
What Ive been making at home is a dish that I read about in
some Civil War era food writingits just mush served up with
fried bacon pieces and a lot of bacon fat. Ive been using the
Arkansas peppered bacon which I love but any of our bacons
would work well Im sure. Just fry the bits of bacon til crisp
and then pour it and the fat in the pan over top of the mush,
add a bit of salt and pepper and eat it hot. Serve it with a
fried egg if youre so inclined. Speaking of fried, mush is often
served that way as wellcooked, cooled and then cut into
slabs and fried up the next day. Again bacon fat would be the
obvious Southern choice but you could certainly do it with
butter or olive oil I suppose too. Great too for dessert with
sorghum syrup, or with Charles Poiriers amazing cane syrup!
continued on page 12
ISSUE # 254
JAN-FEB 2016
CELERY SOUP
CHINESE FIVE
SPICE WITH
POPCORN
CARAWAY RYE
SPANISH DRINKING
CHOCOLATE
SOPRESSATA
PEPPATA SALAMI
I put this salami on sandwiches in my lunchbox for school. It has a nice, peppery flavor
but its not too spicy. It is a great salami to
eat everyday without kids saying Ewwww,
thats gross! I think youll love it, and kids
will, too.
DANDELION
CHOCOLATE FROM
MADAGASCAR
HIBISCUS BERRY
TEA
This tea has a light, sweet flavor-but not too sweet! My friend Ari inspired me
to drink tea, and now I love it. It is a great
tea for any time of the day, because theres
no caffeine. Thats one of the reasons that
Im able to drink it! (Im ten.)
SITTING AT THE
ROADHOUSE
COUNTER SEATS
(near the kitchen)
10
EL RUSTICO
CHOCOLATE FROM
ASKINOSIE
ISSUE # 254
JAN-FEB 2016
When you open the tin youll find an array of colors, how
you might imagine what a Caribbean market might look
greens, oranges, yellows, blacks, browns and reds. Stick
your nose in the tintheres so much going on its hard to
pinpoint any single scent. When you read the ingredients
list youll see why. Turmeric, coriander, cumin, thyme,
mace, bay, mustard, fenugreek, nigella, green onion, habanero chiles, thyme, fennel seed. By the way, its also terrific
if you grind the Trinidad curry mix and use it to toss on popcorn. And, as I said, you can try it regularly with the curried
turkey in the Delis salad case. Ive made mixed vegetable
curries with it at home and loved them. I add a bit of extra
cumin to the mix because its one of my favorite flavors of
all time. I also made a fish, potato and cauliflower curry that
really kicked! You can, of course, do as you like.
Grind the curry mix a bit in a spice grinder or mortar and
pestle. Add it to hot oil in a pan and stir regularly for about
sixty seconds being sure not to burn it. Add in potatoes or
whatever vegetable youre doing to use, toss well and cook
for a couple minutes, stirring regularly. Add water to cover,
bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer for an hour or so
depending on how well cooked you want the ingredients.
I added the fish or seafood near the end so as not to overcook it. Curry making is ideal for using whatever you like
and whatever you have on hand.
HANDMADE
POT PIES
to cheer up your winter blues!
January 1-february 29
CLASSIC CHICKEN
POT PIE
JOHN H. TURKEY
TURKEY POT PIE
John & Nick Harnois Farm turkey
with big chunks of celery, carrots,
onions, potatoes and spiced with
Turkish Urfa pepper and fresh
herbs. Then wrapped in a handmade butter crust.
$9
(Vegetarian selection!)
fungiphiles!
Mushrooms,
and a little
tucked in an
DARINAS DINGLE
PIE
A salute to the miners on the Dingle
Peninsula of Ireland: This pie is
made with lamb from Hannewald
Farm in Stockbridge, MI, loads of
potatoes, rutabaga, onions and
a dash of cumin and rosemary.
Wrapped miner-style (no tin) in a
butter crust.
pot pie
bag
lunches
Now $6.67/each
Now $5.25/each
was $10.00/each
was $7.95/each
Portuguese
sardines
are
the most sought-after in the
world. These are true pilchards with a deep flavor
softened by olive oil. Melt-inyour-mouth tender, they're
delicious as-is; in a dish of
pasta; or on a slice of crusty
bread, topped with good olive
oil, a squeeze of lemon, a twist
of black pepper and a pinch
of sea salt. Oh... We're also
pretty excited about our new
box design!
JANUARY
The Balsamic
Tuna Melt
FEBRUARY
CC's Cordon Bleu
/ea.
FEBRUARY
Portuguese Sardines
99
JANUARY
Mussels In Escabeche
$17.99/each
$13.99/each
Balsamic
Blowout
time.
Vecchia 6 yr is our house
balsamic vinegar. It is the
real star in our tuna melt this
month. Oregon line caught
Albacore tuna, farmhouse
cheddar, house balsamic vinaigrette and fresh pea shoots
on a Paesano roll.
januA
& Feb ry
RUarY
ONLy!
Heres some great
news to kick off
2016. Place a catering
order for pickup or
delivery, and get your
next order of equal or
lesser value half off.
This offer cannot be combined with other discounts and is only valid from Zingermans Catering. Discount will not
be applied to equipment rentals. alcoholic beverages, or service staff. Service fees for events will be based on
non-discounted totals.
ISSUE # 254
JAN-FEB 2016
SHARING ZINGERMANS
UNIQUE APPROACH
TO BUSINESS
Here at ZingTrain, we are all about long term relationships. We seek them. We unabashedly make the first
moves. We nurture them. And when we find ourselves
in one that deepens and becomes richer and better over
the years, were pretty much in relationship heaven. Our
relationship with the folks at Brown and DeLine Salon is
just such a relationship.
What follows is an interview with Cathy Brown-Issel, cofounder of Brown and DeLine. We may have blushed all
the way to our very roots a couple of times ...
Gauri: Tell us the story of Brown and DeLine.
Cathy: Brown and DeLine Salon is a full service salon
and spa located at 5245 Jackson Rd, Ann Arbor, Michigan.
We are open 7 days a week and pride ourselves on our
Its All About You! slogan and our award winning customer service.
My name is Cathy Brown-Issel. I wear many hats at the
salon. I am an owner, hair designer, manager, coach and
author.
I opened Brown and DeLine in 1995 with my then partner Shannon DeLine. I had a vision of owning the most
innovative salon and employing the most professional,
like minded, out-of-the-box thinking team.
I believe ordinary people can do extraordinary things given the belief they can and
the support. Everyone has a gift to share
with the world. Imagine what the world
would be like if everyone bought into this
philosophy. When you know your gift, you
know your purpose.
Writing Thrive and starting Brown & DeLine Business
Consultants seemed to be the next natural step for our
salon. Often when we tell people about the projects or
events we have going on at the salon, there is a long
pause and then a wow. Its been so noticeable that I
had the realization it was time to put our best practices
(secrets) to thriving in the beauty industry in print.
Gauri: When did your relationship with ZingTrain
begin. How has it evolved?
Cathy: My managers and I had our first ZingTrain
seminar in 2006 upstairs next door at Zingermans
Deli. (Your new facility is amazing!) We started with
the 2-day seminar Bottom-Line Training. Members of
our team have also attended the Leading with Zing! and
Open Book Management seminars. We have enjoyed
4-hour customer service workshops and a personalized
Visioning session. Lately, we have been enjoying the
Speaker Series.
We keep coming back because we are committed to
lifelong learning. Being a locally owned business, we are
also committed to think local first. Being in the service
industry, we felt training offered by a service business
would be beneficial. It has exceeded our expectations!
We have incorporated our own style of Open Book
Management into our salons daily operation. The transformation of the business in just 3 years has been unbelievable. My employees now work to positively impact
our Bottom Lines (and know the bottom lines!). We
have had a great improvement in culture and employee
buy-in. Sharing sales figures with the team and giving
everyone a voice at the weekly staff huddle has been
empowering to the team. The team works together to
support the workspace they love and exuberantly share
ideas.
ISSUE # 254
JAN-FEB 2016
SECRET #9
An 8-Step Recipe for
Writing a Vision of
Greatness
SECRET #7
Writing a Vision of
Greatness: And Why Its
Not the Same as a
Strategic Plan!
SECRET #35
The Power of
Personal Visioning.
SPAIN
JANUARY
TUSCANY
GREAT LAKES
CHESHIRE
CROATIA
September 5-14,
2016
Ours is made with the remarkably rich milk of Jersey cows from the Van Buskirk family dairy
in Carleton, MI. The exceptionally high butterfat and protein content of this milk directly
translates into a richer, denser, and altogether better finished cheese. We hope you enjoy
this Ann Arbor original!
www.zingermansfoodtours.com
888-316-2736
foodtours@zingermans.com
FEBRUARY
BRIDGEWATER
january
february
ISSUE # 254
JAN-FEB 2016
Our events are intimate affairs where our cheesemakers and cheesemongers share their passion for great
cheese and great cheesemaking. We hold these classes
right next to where we make our cheese and gelato,
and sometimes bring in our favorite food makers from
around the area to share their stories with you. To get
the inside scoop on all of our events, sign up for our
e-news at zingermanscommunity.com/e-news.
Zingermans Roadhouse hosts regular special dinners that highlight old favorites,
new finds, celebrated chefs and traditional
American foodways. Our dinners are familystyle affairs that deliver really good food
with a little history on the side.
10
ISSUE # 254
JAN-FEB 2016
Zingermans Deli tastings are designed to give you an insiders view of the foods
that weve searched the world for. Youll often meet the folks who make it and
leave with a mouthful of flavor and a new understanding of everything from
olive oil to sardines, cheese to chocolate.
BALSAMIC TASTING
WITH THE FOLKS FROM
LA VECCHIA DISPENSA
ROMANTIC ITALIAN
RICE WITH CHEF WALLO
Wednesday, March 2
6:30-8:30pm $35/person
Zingerman's Events on 4th
(415 N. Fifth Ave.)
Wednesday, January 27
6:30-8:30pm $35/person
Zingerman's Events on 4th
(415 N. Fifth Ave.)
Friday, February 12
2 Seatings: 6-7pm or 8-9pm
$35/person Zingerman's Events on 4th
(415 N. Fifth Ave.)
Taste why we are smitten with products from the
Mitten! Join us for a Michigan-centered happy hour,
featuring a trio of select Michigan-produced wines
and a specially crafted sparkling wine cocktail, paired with
assorted chocolates, hand-made by some of our beloved
truffle-makers from the Great Lakes State. An excellent
accompaniment to a dinner with your sweetheart.
#189
For this year's special dinner we welcome guests Dr. Von H. Washington (actor/director/professor)
and Ali Garrison (mezzo-soprano) for dramatic reading based on Dr. Washington's play, "In Search
of Giant" about two historical abolitionists meeting in 1844 at the Underground Railroad Station in
Schoolcraft, Michigan for a kitchen table conversation about food, freedom and human interaction.
For this event, Chef Alex is creating a traditional mid-19th century menu to set the scene for this
exclusive performance.
#19
Whether were pulling a shot for you in our caf on Plaza Drive or sending you
off with a bag of fresh roasted beans, our passion is to source, roast and brew
great coffee. Our classes are designed for the coffee novice and nerd alike and
aim to help everyone learn about everything it takes to turn a great bean into
a great cup of coffee.
COMPARATIVE
CUPPING
Sunday, January 10
& February 14, 1-3 pm $30/person
Sample coffees from the Africa, Central and
South Americas, and the Asian Pacific. We will
taste and evaluate these coffees using the
techniques and tools used by professional cuppers. A brief understanding of coffee will also
be presented highlighting different processing
and growing methods. This is an eye-opening
introduction to the world of coffee.
BREWING METHODS
Sunday, January 24
& Februrary 18, 1-3 pm $30/person
Learn the keys to successful coffee brewing using a wide variety of brewing methods
from filter drip to syphon pot. This tasting session will explore a single coffee brewed
6 to 8 different ways, each producing a unique taste. A demonstration of the proper
proportions and techniques for each method and a discussion of the merits and differences of each style will take place.
T AT EVENTS.ZINGERMANSCOMMUNITY.COM
DINNER SERIES:
FRENCH
Saturday, February 6
1:30-5:30pm $125
You dont have to be part of a big corporate event or lavish wedding to enjoy Cornman Farms (although we certainly host those,
too!) Throughout the year we host numerous tours, dinners, classes
and more that allow people to experience our unique event space
in Dexter, MI.
COCKTAIL CLASS:
GIN-UARY TAKE TWO
AN EVENING IN SICILY
(VIA DEXTER)
Saturday, January
9-7:00pm $125
Gioacchino Passalaqua, an
Italian artisanal food exporter
and native Sicilian who coleads the Sicily Food Tour with
Zingermans Food Tours is coming to town and hes bringing
one of Sicilys top chefs with
him. Claudio Ruta is a Michelin
star recipient for his restaurant La Fenice in the hotel Villa
Carlotta in Ragusa, Sicily. The area is renowned for its
bounty of amazing foods, and Claudio is bringing many of
those signature flavors along with him for a very special
dinner at Cornman Farms in Dexter. With the assistance of
Gioacchinoan accomplished cook and sommelier in his
own rightClaudio will be preparing a menu with wine pairings that showcases the amazing foods of Sicily.
June 1- 5, 2016
Were really excited about this years Camp Bacon! Our
annual fundraiser for the Southern Foodways Alliance and
the Washtenaw County 4H is coming up the first five days
of June!
Wednesday June 1 Bacon for the Brain
In the morning John U. Bacon kicks things off with a presentation from his new book, Endzone: The Rise, Fall, and Return
of Michigan Football at the ZingTrains speaker series.
Thursday June 2 Annual Bacon Ball at the Roadhouse
This years guest speaker will be Mark Essig sharing stories
from his fantastic new book Lesser Beasts: A Snout-to-Tail
History of the Humble Pig
Friday June 3 Bakin with Bacon at BAKE
Saturday June 4Main Event at Camp Bacon
What an amazing line up of interesting, engaging, insightful and funny speakers! And all the bacon you handle!
Adrian Miller, Presidential Pork,
(James Beard Award-winning author)
Adrian Miller o "The Popularity of All
Things Porcine in Presidential Foodways."
Mark Essig on "Lesser Beasts: A Snout-toTail History of the Humble Pig."
Ari Miller from 1732 Meats on Whats a
nice Jewish boy Doing Making Bacon?
Eric Clayman from the Denver Bacon
Company on "How to Make Guanciale."
Chris Wilson from the Smithsonian
Museum on Pork and African American
Culture.
Chef Sherry Yard from Los Angeles on
"Baking with Bacon."
ISSUE # 254
JAN-FEB 2016
11
FARRO PICCOLO
12
ISSUE # 254
JAN-FEB 2016
Balsamic has been made for family use for hundreds of years.
In fact, for most of its history, balsamic was made ONLY for
the family. Every family around Modena would keep their
own set of barrels in the attic to
age with the seasons of the year.
The balsamic wasand still isan
incredibly valuable family heirloom,
like at the agriturismo. It was used
primarily as medicine, not as salad
dressing. If you had a stomach ache,
grandma would prescribe a spoonful of balsamic. (Not bad, huh?) The
Italian word balsamico comes from
the same source as balsam in English:
a resinous liquid with medicinal benefits.
Today, aspirin has replaced balsamic
as the medicine of the day, but balsamic remains a family affair in Italy.
The balsamic we get from La Vecchia
Dispensa is made by the Tintori family. When I visited, Simone
Tintori showed me around theacetaiathe space where the
balsamic is made. His family has perhaps a dozen sets of balsamic barrels. A set is called a batteria and typically includes
five barrels. As Simone explained it to me, each batteria is
made by the grandfather when a new daughter is born into
the family. The balsamic made in the barrels will become a
part of her dowry, but they'll remain with the family's collection even after she is married. The dozen batterie in the
Tintori family's collection represent a dozen daughters over
the last few generations.
Each batteria bears the name of the daughter who owns
them. I saw Antonietta, Guendolina, Roberta. Many of the
barrels are decades old. As we walked through the acetaia,
Simone points out batterie belonging to his sister, his aunts,
his grandmother. On the walls above the barrels were old
black and white family photos. The acetaia is our family
pantheon, Simone poetically explained.
Its the barrels that give the balsamic most of its flavor.
To make traditional balsamic, you start with just one ingredient: grape must, the unattractively named fresh-pressed juice
of grapes, skins, seeds, and stems. The grape must is cooked
and reduced, then it goes straight into barrels. To start the
aging process, its mixed with a little of last years balsamic,
called the mother, which kicks off the transformation from
must to vinegar. As it ages the balsamic will spend time in at
least four different barrels or as many as a dozen. The barrels
in a batteria are typically made from a variety of different
woods including oak, acacia, cherry, juniper, and mulberry.
By the time the balsamic is ready to sell, it will have spent
time in each barrel in the batteria. Each type of wood contributes a different flavor. Older barrels add complexity and
balance.
Balsamic Tasting with our friends from Vecchia
Dispensa at Zingerman's Delicatessen, January 27.
See details on page 10!
CHECK OUT THE THE FEED BLOG ABOUT THE SECRET LIFE OF AMAZING FOOD AT ZINGERMANS AT THEFEED.ZINGERMANS.COM
at Zingerman's Delicatessen
and online at
www.zingermans.com
Sale ends Jan 31, 2016
by the barRel
SAVE
$200
SAVE
up to $100
These are the vinegars about which legends have been woven.
Buy one for a grand occasion. A golden anniversary. A wedding. A
newborn. An election. Tested by a panel of judges, the qualifiers in
Modena are graded gold and white. Then they return to the wood
for another five, ten, twenty, or a hundred years or more. During
the aging process, the vinegar is shifted from one type of wood to
the next. Cherry, chestnut, oak and mulberry all leave their imprint
on the flavor of the vinegar. The result is an almost unbelievable
concentration of sweet-sour flavor in a dense, intense, brown-black
vinegar that hints of berries, grapes, vanilla. There is nothing like it
in the world. Only a tiny amount is released each year, in elegant
glass flasks. Let loose a few drops on ripe strawberries fresh from
the market. An amazing treat you'll always remember. All traditional
balsamics from Modena are bottled in Ferrari designer Giorgio
Guigiaro's streamlined, sexy bottle, then gift boxed. They may
all look the same, but the vinegar is not. We buy ours from Erika
Barbieri, one of only a handful of female balsamic makers. I think
her vinegars are consistently fantasticand the juniper aged version
is unique.
New!
Juniper Wood
Extra Aged
Grandmother's
Fabulous
SAVE
$125
SAVE
$250
30
year aged
With much of the flavor of balsamics that cost twice as much,
this is a great deal for a great
vinegar.
8 year aged
SAVE
$5
10 year aged
SAVE
$10
SAVE
$20
16 year aged
SAVE
$15
four ages
SAVE
$10
Balsamic Sampler
Four precious small bottles (about an ounce
total) of Vecchia Dispensa's 8, 10, 20 and 40
year aged balsamics. They look like beautiful
vials of perfume, just way tastier.
ISSUE # 254
JAN-FEB 2016
13
home with as many people you feel like sharing with. If you dont find perfection in this
box well make more combinations for you
until you discover the combination you love.
Cant choose between a few? Dont choose.
Have a different combination for each tier of
your cake. Need to plan your wedding from a
different city? Well mail the samples to you.
Want a custom flavor of cake that we arent
offering? Give us time to work on the recipe
to make sure its delicious and well be happy
to accommodate you. Weve made cakes out
of our Buenos Aires and Townie (gluten-free)
brownies, added chocolate to our coconut
cake, and baked some nostalgic favorite
family recipes.
Have a limited
schedule? We
want to make it
easy for you to meet
with us so we are
available every day
of the week. Generally we work until
3 in the afternoon but if an appointment at
5:30 on a Wednesday is what you need, well
change our schedule to make it happen.
Cant come to town before the week of the
wedding? Weve become good at designing
through phone calls and emails.
Delicious
Ways
To Have Zingermans
At Your Wedding
1. Custom Zingermans Bakehouse
cookies at each place setting.
Well work with you on shape, color and design
to match your theme when we create these
custom decorated, handmade butter cookies.
See photos at www.zingermansbakehouse.com
Interested in fiFinding out more about having a Zingermans Bakehouse wedding cake?
Call us at 734-761-7255 or email us at weddingcakes@zingermans.com.
We are ready and at your service. Contact Tabitha Mason to book your
elopement or intimate wedding! tmason@zingermans.com or 734-619-8100
14
ISSUE # 254
JAN-FEB 2016
Your bouquet
and boutonniere
(one of each,
or two of either!)
new in 2016!
Bake!-cAtions
The ultimate experience for the home baker! We guide you through a comprehensive education in bread and pastry techniques in a fun, exciting, relaxed
and always hands-on classroom. Includes breakfast and lunch everyday, and
youll need to bring along an empty suitcase to take home all the great food
youve made. For adults 17 and older.
Baking Basics
Doughnuts 2.0
International Cookies
Muffin Method
Holiday Classes!
Visit www.bakewithzing.com
to register!
This weekend will cover a variety of techniques such as crimping pie dough, parbaking, creaming method, kneading, cooking custard, filling a cake and more. Youll
learn while creating quiche Lorraine, puff pastry, palmiers, blondies, Whoopie pies,
cream cheese and apricot strudel, cheddar bacon scallion scones, Triple Trouble
chocolate cookies, New Deli Crumb Cake, fresh fruit tart, and a European torte.
Staff Picks
Even more baking action in this new 3 day BAKE!-cation full of sweet and savory recipes that are the top
picks of Zingermans Bakehouse staff. Youll learn a
wide variety of techniques including making bread
starters and poolish, forming a flaky pie crust, frying,
dough fermentation, cooking pastry cream, kneading dough, and more. Together well make a laundry
list of all time favorites including maple sandwich
cookies, Ginger Jump Up cookies, bacon pecan Sandies, Buenos Aires brownies, crullers, rhubarb pie,
coconut cream pie, Boston Cream pie, Somodi Klacs,
Peppered Bacon Farm bread, scallion walnut bread, chocolate sourdough, brioche buns,
focaccia w/caramelized onions, walnuts, gorgonzola, and French baguettes. Phew!
Bakers know how to eat!
January 22-23
February 5-9
February 12-13
Rosemary Baguettes
Cherry Scones
King Cake
February 9
February 19-20
Paczki
Scallion Walnut
S'more Tarts
Craquelin
Cinn-oh-man
January 15-16
Pumpernickel Raisin
January 15-17
Cinn-oh-man
February 12 -13
January 29-30
Chocolate Cherry
Bread
Chernushka Rye
February 12
Chocolate Dipped
Margaret's Sweet Wheat Palmiers
February 5-6
Janary 29-31
January 8-10
February 26-27
Potato Dill
$4.50
each
(reg. $6.29)
Basic Camp
World Of Cookies
BAKE!
American:
Black Magic brownies, Snickerdoodles,
butter pie crust
British:
soda bread,
shortbread cookies,
& Baps (dinner rolls)
French:
quiche Lorraine,
baguettes,
Tuille cookies
Italian:
Pizza, Focaccia,
Amaretti cookies
Advanced Camp
February
Rig Jancsi
with Chesnut Cream
ISSUE # 254
January
Rustic Italian Round
February
Better than San Franciso
Sourdough Round
Good enough to ship back to California. Crisp, crackly crust, moist honeycombed interior and the trademark
sour tang that will tickle your tongue.
JAN-FEB 2016
15